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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: 1st trailer... septic hookup questions

Many RV’s have sensors in the fresh, gray, and black tanks to give you an idea of how full they are. The ones in the gray and black tanks tend to be a little unreliable due to the environment they’re in, but hopefully your trailer has some indicator lights on a panel somewhere. If not, you may have to make some rough estimates of daily water usage, and then just plan to dump every X number of days. One strategy would be to just use the tanks until they fill up, and then cut the number of days it took to fill in half and start dumping on a schedule. You’ll know when the gray tank is full when the water starts filling the shower pan (or whatever the lowest gray water drain is). Do you know what the fresh, gray, and black tank capacities are? :):)
NRALIFR 01/14/20 05:54am Travel Trailers
RE: 1st trailer... septic hookup questions

Since your going to be sitting in place for a few years, the primary objective in your situation should be to prevent solids accumulating in your trailers tanks, and the drain lines. You want to have, as much as possible, all the solids in both the gray and black tanks drain into the septic tank. The best thing to do in your case would be to connect your trailer to the septic system using the same 4” PVC sewer pipe used on a house, and not the flexible hose “stinky slinky”. None of those hoses are intended to be left out continuously for years at a time. PVC has a smoother interior, and won’t trap solids as readily. It’s also more durable. Then, use your trailers tanks in such a way that there is never a long, slow stream of water flowing through the drain pipe. That’s what happens if you leave the dump valves open on either tank. You should leave the valves closed until the tanks are filled to point where there will be sufficient volume released to flush the majority of the solids into the septic tank. How often you dump will depend on the size of the tanks, and how quickly they fill up, but I’d try to let them get at least half full. When it’s time to dump, drain the black first, then the gray, so the gray water will help move any solids in the drain pipe into the septic tank. Since your trailer isn’t a park model, that’s how I would do it. :):)
NRALIFR 01/14/20 05:26am Travel Trailers
RE: propane tanks

Yup, and the 30# horizontals are even more. I replaced both of mine about three years ago when I started having leakage problems with one of the valves. I was having such a hard time getting it repaired that I decided to buy new instead. Manchester 30# Horizontal :):)
NRALIFR 01/12/20 05:59am Truck Campers
RE: Camper damage due to being serviced at that dealer

If you’ve ever seen how most dealerships move 5th wheels around on their lot, I’d be wondering if they dropped it rather than hit it. Either way though, could the problem with the cabinets and bunk room doors not closing just be due to the fact that all the levelers aren’t down? :):)
NRALIFR 01/12/20 04:15am General RVing Issues
RE: Water heater plastic plug

Lynnmor- Apparently, part of the manufacturing process for Atwood (now Dometic) aluminum water heater tanks is suspending the laws of physics inside them. According to the interweb experts, they are the only aluminum vessels on earth that will NOT react and corrode in the presence of water. Buy an aluminum boat, it will have an anode. An aluminum fresh water storage tank, it needs an anode. In reality, Atwood/Dometic makes no claims that the cladding in their tanks will prevent corrosion. In fact, they acknowledge that the cladding is the sacrificial anode, and that in the presence of certain types of water, corrosion can happen very quickly, and pinholes can form in the tank. Or at least they did before the company was acquired by Dometic. Their documentation is completely different now. It’s also not true that your warranty will be void if you use anything other than the plastic (oops, nylon) plug. The actual wording in their warranty document is: “damage or failure caused by installation of accessories not manufactured and marketed by the Seller or any non-Dometic parts that are installed as replacement parts”. The key words are “damage or failure caused by”. That’s a pretty standard position for a manufacturer to take regarding warranty coverage. The warranty on water heaters is two years, so the smart thing to do would be to use the recommended plug during the warranty period, then do what you want after that. Unless you’re spending long periods of time in an area with sub-par water, your WH will most likely last much longer than that. Mine’s nearly 20 years old, and other than the original plug, it’s always had something other than the nylon plug in the drain hole. The brass petcock that’s in it now has been there for several years, and I’ve removed it periodically to flush the tank. I’ve also used an anode rod, and as long as it’s more anodic than the tank cladding, then the rod will corrode rather than the tank. That’s just how it works. I use either thread tape or Rectorseal on the threads. It doesn’t leak, and the threads are fine. If you do happen to damage the threads (which can happen even with the nylon plug), provided it’s not too bad there is such a thing as an NPT tap or thread chaser. :):)
NRALIFR 01/10/20 05:41am Tech Issues
RE: mounting a propane tank to bumper

^ That’s what I suspected was behind it. That and the RVIA standards, that the manufacturer has to follow if they want the RVIA sticker on their units. I actually like the box enclosure, it’s no different than the LP compartment on my TC, but I should also point out that the LP compartment door latches can’t be locked, and there’s a sticker on the door clearly identifying it as an LP storage compartment. In the event of an emergency, first responders to an RV related incident are going to look for and turn off the valves on the LP tanks first thing. :):)
NRALIFR 01/07/20 07:09am Truck Campers
RE: mounting a propane tank to bumper

My understanding is it’s ok to secure the cylinder in a way that prevents theft, but you’re not supposed to prevent access to the valves. :):)
NRALIFR 01/07/20 05:09am Truck Campers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

What in the effin’ bloody heII is wrong with you Gdetrailer? You need to calm down. I don’t know what possessed you to think I was challenging what you wrote, but I assure you, I wasn’t. I believe it for cripes sake, why wouldn’t I? I was simply describing how mine is constructed, and since it sounds similar to the OP’s, how I would install the roof aluminum. How that managed to make you go off the rails so thoroughly is a mystery to me. I honestly don’t understand why you felt it necessary to respond in such a hateful and belligerent way. If my posts are going to set you off so easily, why don’t you do yourself a favor and block me? :):)
NRALIFR 01/05/20 05:14pm Travel Trailers
RE: mounting a propane tank to bumper

For the average consumer, DOT cylinders from 4 to 40 lbs require an OPD valve, which will have a pressure relief valve integrated in it. Outside of an industrial setting, most of us would have a hard time getting a cylinder with a non-OPD valve on it refilled. :):)
NRALIFR 01/05/20 02:44pm Truck Campers
RE: mounting a propane tank to bumper

This is the 20 lb cylinder on my grill at home. That’s a pressure relief valve on there I do believe. The valves on the 30 lb horizontal cylinders in my TC look the same. :):)
NRALIFR 01/05/20 01:36pm Truck Campers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

The aluminum sheet on the roof of my TC isn’t glued to the wood at all. IIRC there is a layer of felt or closed cell foam between the aluminum and the wood, but it’s held down by the perimeter trim and screws. I don’t think I’d try to full-spread glue it. I would also pass on the EPDM, TPO, or any other flexible membrane roofing. Nothing beats aluminum. In other words, what he said ^ :B :):) yes you will want the felt or some kind of insulation that aluminum is going to sweat not a good situation. Jay D. RV and Mobil home manufacturers NEVER put anything under an aluminum roof. Yes, I HAVE worked on mobile homes and I HAVE delt with RVs with aluminum roofs, there is NOTHING THERE, not even plywood. The aluminum just lays over top the roof ribs.. Not saying it is the best way, just saying that IS what has been done. You are always free to do what you think is best.. Well, no offense intended, as all I know are the three TC’s I’ve owned. The 19 year old Lance In my sig, and two Jayco TC’s before that. All had a seamless aluminum roof, and there was definitely more than just the aluminum up there. Probably because TC’s don’t sit on a steel frame like a trailer, and their roofs are usually intended to be walked on. But, the construction of the trailer they’re rebuilding sounds very similar. The only TC I’ve had to open up the roof on is the Lance, and there is a layer of some type of insulation between the aluminum roof, and the layer of plywood or luan that’s on top of the ribs. The voids between the ribs are filled with more insulation, then the ceiling plywood is on the inside. The OP’s trailer that they are rebuilding also has plywood over the roof ribs, whether by their design or the OEM. If it were my camper, I wouldn’t try to adhere the aluminum to the plywood, but would put a thin (~1/8”) layer of some type of felt or foam insulation between. Mainly because I believe it will help quiet the roof when it rains, but it may also have some benefit in preventing condensation. :):)
NRALIFR 01/05/20 05:15am Travel Trailers
RE: Adhesive for Aluminum roof to plywood?

The aluminum sheet on the roof of my TC isn’t glued to the wood at all. IIRC there is a layer of felt or closed cell foam between the aluminum and the wood, but it’s held down by the perimeter trim and screws. I don’t think I’d try to full-spread glue it. I would also pass on the EPDM, TPO, or any other flexible membrane roofing. Nothing beats aluminum. In other words, what he said ^ :B :):)
NRALIFR 01/04/20 03:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Commercial macerator or homemade from garbage disposer

No problem. I enjoy fabricating things myself, and I respect the skills of others who do. I actually used to have a 12v Flowjet macerator, and it worked fine for 3-4 years. It eventually quit though, and I thought the price was too high to consider replacing it. You do have to keep them clean, and since your going to be pumping shower water through them, they will get hair in them that will have to be cleaned out. They have to be taken apart to clean them. I will warn you though, if you end up using the 12v macerator, you need to get the full cooperation of any females in your group. Their products will kill a poop grinder pretty quick. I doubt a garbage disposer would like them either. Tinker on, buddy. Show us what you build! :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 09:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Commercial macerator or homemade from garbage disposer

Thanks. That makes five now. I think at this point, it is incumbent on the naysayers to prove their claim that a garbage disposal cannot be used to pump sewage uphill. I’ve never used one like that, but I’ve replaced several, and played with a few enough to know that the water doesn’t just “fall” out of the disposer thanks to gravity. It’s under pressure. Otherwise, I trust that said naysayers humility will at least allow an admission that their claims should be afforded the same credentials as they afford other interweb based claims; they don’t mean squat. Possibly even less than that. Diddly squat. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 05:16pm Tech Issues
RE: The TFL guys bought a 7.3L

Since I would have been happy buying an F450 pickup with the V10 gas engine in it, I’m pretty sure I’d be ok with the 7.3L gas engine too. But, they didn’t offer the V10 in the F450 pickup then, and they aren’t offering the 7.3L in it now. I hope that changes in later model years, but we’ll have to wait and see. IMHO, the F450 pickup NEEDS a gas engine option, just like the other SD’s. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 04:34pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tires question

If Michelin makes an XPS rib in your size, then they should make an XPS traction as well, and I’d chose that. I had a set on a 1995 F350 dually and they were great tires. I didn’t think they were noisy at all. The diesel engine probably drowned out any noise the tires made. They only make a few sizes of that tire now, which is a shame. It’s a good all-steel carcass tire, which gives them some stiff sidewalls. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 02:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Glacier 2020 vanished

Dang schlep, you just took away all of my incentive to screech and wail, gnash my teeth, and wag my finger at everyone, while scaring the **** out of children to the point where they believe there is just no hope for them. Not their grandkids, THEM. In THEIR lifetime. Everyone wants to be a prophet of doom. It’s become a death cult. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 10:45am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: The TFL guys bought a 7.3L

I have never seen anything close to 14.5 mpg on my truck, even when empty. I doubt even the current model year F450 pickups get that kind of mileage empty, at 65 mph. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 10:09am Tow Vehicles
RE: The TFL guys bought a 7.3L

Unless that engine turns out to be a complete turd, which we should know within just a few model years, I’d still be willing to give it a try. I can’t imagine being more disappointed with an engine than I was with the 6.4L diesel in my 2010 F450. I did get a good trade-in value on it though, despite its bad rep. Still, having enough power for my use, and reliability when we’re far from available help are the top items on my list for a truck. What kind of trade in I get, or what I may get in a private sale is on the list, but it’s below those. I hope the 7.3L is a success. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 08:11am Tow Vehicles
RE: Glacier 2020 vanished

Because it has become religious dogma, and you are not allowed to question it. It’s just that simple. Their counter argument to any heretics is always “You don’t believe in science! You’re a science denier!” which is absolutely not true. There’s your sign. :):)
NRALIFR 01/02/20 08:00am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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