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RE: Reverse shoulder operation

Gary, I understand how you feel about the reverse shoulder surgery. It sounds extreme to me as well, which is why I haven’t gone that route yet. My doc also feels I should hold off as long as possible, because there’s the possibility that if it’s done too soon you could actually wear out the new parts and need a second replacement 15 or so years down the road. There are four rotator cuff muscles, and it’s not uncommon at all for someone (males especially) to tear or totally separate the two smallest ones by the time you’re in your mid-forties. That’s what I did in both shoulders, and just thought it was normal “getting old” aches and pains. Then moving some heavy equipment I started tearing my right deltoid away from its attachment point at the shoulder. That didn’t hurt too much until the muscle started ripping down the middle, and I lost use of my upper arm. During surgery to fix the tear, the doc also found that the bicep long-head tendon was damaged to the point where it had to be cut loose and not reattached (bicep tenotomy vs. tenodesis where it’s reattached to the upper arm bone), so my right bicep looks funny now. My upper arm was immobile long enough that all the arm and shoulder muscles associated with it atrophied. Getting them working again took several months, and the 24x7 pain didn’t stop for almost two years. Today like I said, I have 90-95% range of motion, maybe only about half of the upper arm and shoulder strength, and similarly diminished endurance with that arm. Working above shoulder height is difficult, but I can do it if it’s for a short duration. It’s not pain free, but it’s manageable without Rx drugs, and thank goodness it’s no longer 24x7. So, you CAN live without some of your rotator cuff muscles, half your bicep disconnected, and a repaired deltoid. But I would never advise anyone which way to go on this. The wisest thing to do would probably be to get a second and maybe even a third opinion. Your age will likely play a big part in what you decide. :):)
NRALIFR 09/16/20 11:15am RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
RE: Reverse shoulder operation

Reverse shoulder replacement is for those with large, irreparable rotator cuff tears that have consistently demonstrated poor outcomes from “traditional” shoulder replacement due to loss of the stability provided by these muscles. In the normal shoulder joint, the “ball” is at the top of the arm bone, and the “socket” is in the shoulder. After reverse shoulder replacement, the ball and socket are reversed, which results in a more stable joint. You MUST have an intact and functional deltoid muscle for a reverse shoulder replacement to work, though. Also, the term “socket” should not be taken literally, as it does not surround the “ball” as you would see in the mechanical world. It’s actually a very shallow cup, and the stability of the joint is totally reliant on the many muscles surrounding it being intact. Reverse Shoulder Replacement I know more than I want to know about this procedure due to having multiple irreparable rotator cuff injuries (total separation) in both shoulders, and having torn the deltoid in my right shoulder about 4 years ago. Fortunately, the deltoid was surgically repaired, and I have almost full range of motion in both shoulders, although not totally pain free. Ive been told that if I should ever need shoulder replacement surgery, the only type that would work for me is a reverse. :):)
NRALIFR 09/15/20 05:58am RVing with Disabilities and General Health Issues
RE: Run with only one propane tank

....... I am asking if it is a good idea to leave one of my two propane tanks at home when traveling. ......... Short answer is NO, It’s not a good idea. It doesn’t matter what your needs are today or yesterday. As soon as you leave one tank behind, you WILL need it. Guaranteed. You’ve thrown down the gauntlet to the propane gods, and they will smite you hard for it. That’s how this stuff always turns out for me anyways. I’ve learned to not fight against it, but you know what they say: It’s your.........posterior. ::):)
NRALIFR 09/14/20 01:54pm Tech Issues
RE: TPMS for the alcoa wheels

Aren’t most all aftermarket wheels lug centric , including Alcoa ? If that’s the case , which i think it is, then that would explain why they are sensitive to being overloaded ? The lugs would center and carry the weight instead of the hub , like an OEM steel wheel. If that’s the case then it’s imperative to weigh your rig. I wouldn’t say “most” when it comes to Alcoa. In the sizes I was using, most of them were hub pilot. These Hotshot beauties were on my ‘95 F350. Sadly, long gone :( :):)
NRALIFR 09/11/20 07:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RPMs dropping uphill, Ford f-450

The 2013 F450 pickup isn’t a medium duty truck. The GVWR is 14K, so it’s still a class 3. You’re not letting the cruise control drive it on steep grades are you? Unless there’s a check engine light, I’m going to say this is just a lack of familiarity with the truck. Make sure Tow/Haul mode is on, and perhaps be a bit more aggressive with anticipating the need for downshifting, and throttle. Use the +/- buttons on the shifter to force a down shift and lock it out of 6th, or even 5th if needed. :):)
NRALIFR 09/09/20 08:58pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Front Frame Mount Tie Downs Not Working!

NRALIFR-Curious, though doesn't look like with new upper tie off point would give enough angle (and you've solved your problem) why is the lower mount not to the hole in end of insert plate? It’s easier to hook the tiedown there. My jacks have to swing out a little farther than normal because the F450 is a few inches wider than the F350 dually of the same model year. Not sure if that’s still true with the current F450 pickups, but it was true in 2016. The truck wouldn’t fit between the front jacks that had been plenty wide for the F350 dually I used to have. So, my swing-out extensions have extensions now! That puts the forward hole so close to the jack when it’s swung in that it makes it harder to get the hook in the hole. And like you said, that little bit of angle isn’t enough to do any good. I tried using that hole on both front tiedowns for a while, and the camper could still slide backwards. :):)
NRALIFR 09/02/20 09:39am Truck Campers
RE: Front Frame Mount Tie Downs Not Working!

Sounds like you’re wanting to make what used to be called a belly-bar. I think Brophy and Hijacker made those. That style will work, but I’m wondering if your Torklift tiedowns might not break if the camper didn’t move? :):)
NRALIFR 09/02/20 07:47am Truck Campers
RE: Front Frame Mount Tie Downs Not Working!

My front tiedowns are pretty much vertical as well, because I moved the tie down point on the camper to the front jacks. I didn’t like the deflection I was seeing around the factory tie down points. You can see them in this picture, about 12” behind the front jack. The jack mount is a much stronger tie down point, and there has been no deflection. The tie down on the driver side also doesn’t block the fuel door anymore, so that’s a good thing, too. But, despite sitting on a rubber mat the camper tended to slide backwards a few inches while on a trip and I’d have to move it back to the front every 3-4 days. I do take mine off road regularly. Just unpaved forest roads, but some of them can get pretty rough. After puzzling over that issue for a while, I came up with a way to stop the movement of the camper in the bed. On the bottom of the camper, I put a 1x4 along each side of the tub to tighten it up between the wheel wells. Then I ran six treated deck boards across the bottom of the tub at evenly spaced intervals. The first board is new because I had just replaced it. The original one developed a big split. Then, I made a Camper Hauler Stiction Device (CHSD, or just “frammus”) that sits under the camper, with some tabs that extend into the four 5th-wheel hitch attachment points. The two boards on the CHSD are carefully placed so that they allow the 3rd and 4th boards on the bottom of the camper to land just in front of them, and prevent rearward movement. The camper no longer moves front/back or sideways. :):)
NRALIFR 09/02/20 05:51am Truck Campers
RE: Truck Camper Cable Entry for DC-DC Charger Wiring

I’d also recommend using that Pollak 2-pin liftgate plug. It’s rated for far more amps than your DC-DC Charger will ever require, but it’s also compatible with (IIRC) up to 2 AWG wires. For the length this circuit is going to be, If you want the charger to live up to its full potential, don’t undersize the wires. Run them the most direct route from the truck battery, through an appropriate CB and isolation solenoid, under the cab to the front of the bed, and you'll still be surprised just how long that circuit is! This is the wire I used, and the lug crimping tool. Here’s some pics of how I installed mine. Starting from the front, I installed a CB and solenoid behind the driver side headlight. From there, I ran the 2 AWG +/- 12 volt wires down to the frame rail in split loom, making sure they were in a protected path, away from heat. Not sure if Ram is like this, but in the front of Ford pickup beds, there are a couple of plastic plugs. I used the one on the driver side to pull a wire bundle through. I used a length of heater hose as a conduit between the cab and bed. For the turn, brake, reverse and marker lights, I spliced into the 5th-wheel plug wires at the end of the bed, and ran those wires to the front f the bed as well. I need a thick spacer at the front of my bed to keep the camper from running into the truck brake lights, so I mounted a plastic electrical junction box on its face to use as a spot to mount the new plugs. The plugs are both Pollak brand, round pin plugs. A 2-pin, and a 4-pin. The 4 gauge wire goes through the camper’s umbilical cord, all the way to the DC-DC charger, which is installed close to the camper battery and connected directly to it. There are fuses on both the input and output sides of the charger. Here’s a link to a topic I posted in Tech Issues two years ago detailing the DC-DC charger install inside the camper. Redarc DC-DC Battery Charger :):)
NRALIFR 08/31/20 07:15pm Truck Campers
RE: F450 vs Ram 3500 DRW tow vehicle

So Ram 3500 or Ford 450?? Lol I forgot what we were talking aboot. Thanks! I didn’t. I was just waiting for them to get out of the weeds. Another fo’fitty for me, with a scoop of 7.3 Godzilla on top. :B :):)
NRALIFR 08/30/20 02:36am Tow Vehicles
RE: F450 vs Ram 3500 DRW tow vehicle

I had no idea I was supposed to be so unhappy with my F450....... I’ll have to work on my frowning, now. :( :):)
NRALIFR 08/28/20 12:35pm Tow Vehicles
RE: What you need to know if you buy a macerator

If possible, connect the macerator directly to the RV sewage pipe without a flexible hose. :):)
NRALIFR 08/24/20 09:16am Tech Issues
RE: Virus while camping

I got sick back around Christmas, not traveling. With COVID-19? Confirmed by test? :):)
NRALIFR 08/24/20 09:12am RV Lifestyle
RE: F450 vs Ram 3500 DRW tow vehicle

In Wenatchee the GMC is across from the dodge dealership. maybe 5 GMC trucks and a long line of Rams. Not sure what that means. chevman Outside of the service entrance, right? :W :):)
NRALIFR 08/23/20 04:04pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 50 AMP Tents

The fact that a site in a public campground has a 50 amp plug DOES NOT imply that it was INTENDED only for a 50 amp RV! My impression by far is that the vast majority of public campgrounds that have a 50 amp plug, also have a 30 amp and a 20 amp plug. Though I realize you say that’s not the case at this park. The fact that a tent is on the site also DOESN'T imply that a tent site went unused. Do the tent sites even have power? Sometimes, they don’t. Were you there when any of the tenters checked in? Did you hear them request that they specifically wanted those sites so that they can keep 50 amp rigs off of them? Or is it more likely that they wanted those sites because “it looks nice”, “it has a good view”, “it faces the water”, “it’s close to the bathrooms”, or “it’s next to the people I’m camping with”? Even if the ONLY plug is 50 amps, In the absence of any rule stating so, it still doesn’t imply in a public park that it was intended to only be used by a 50 amp rig. That’s why adapters and dog bones are made. The price of the site is irrelevant, and none of your business anyway. If the tenter occupied the site within the rules and paid the fee, it’s his site! Your argument for “common decency” would carry more weight if it wasn’t so blatantly obvious that it directly benefits the larger RV owners. Following the rules and using the established process for occupying a campsite IS common decency! If this bothers you so much, why don’t you take it up with the controlling authority (not the campground hosts)? Let them explain it to you, and if you don’t like the answer go talk to your elected representatives. :):)
NRALIFR 08/23/20 02:33am General RVing Issues
RE: Lithium batteries

Srschang, is the changing wire to the camper on your truck not switched by the ignition? Even if it’s not, why would your trucks AGM’s not like 14.6? The AGM charging specs I’ve looked at seem to like up to about 14.9. That’s assuming that the 14.6 from the camper is even reaching the truck batteries, that is. There’s about 20 or so feet of wire between the camper converter and the truck batteries on a crew cab pickup, so the voltage drop is going to be considerable. At any rate, a few minutes with a volt meter would tell you. For me, having multiple ways of recharging the camper battery is a good thing. I’m not always in a developed campground, or even in an environment where solar can be totally relied on. It would be nice to have a panel or two on the roof, but the DC-DC charger isn’t dependent on the sun. If I ever get around to adding a solar panel, I’ll just connect it to the solar input on the Redarc. :):)
NRALIFR 08/22/20 09:24am Truck Campers
RE: F450 vs Ram 3500 DRW tow vehicle

When Ford makes the F450 pickup available with the 7.3L Godzilla, that’s my next truck. :):)
NRALIFR 08/22/20 07:14am Tow Vehicles
RE: 50 AMP Tents

When you’re talking about public campgrounds (city, state, federal) “efficient use” of the available sites probably isn’t the top priority for filling them. I would be willing to bet that at the vast majority of PUBLIC campgrounds, the policy I pointed to on the Tennessee state park website is more the norm than restricting 50 amp sites to 50 amp rigs. Why? Because they’re public, and they should be available to anyone willing to pay the fee, in the order they arrive or make their reservation. :):)
NRALIFR 08/22/20 05:55am General RVing Issues
RE: Lithium batteries

I’ve got a 25A Redarc DC-DC charger in my camper, and I really like it. It has dual inputs, so it can connect to the truck battery and your solar panels, and will prioritize using solar whenever available. It supports lead acid, gel, AGM, and lithium. I currently have a single group 31 AGM battery, but anticipate that someday Li will hit a price point that’s attractive to me. It also has one benefit that I wasn’t anticipating before installing it, but have come to appreciate. If you have a 3-way fridge in your camper, the DC mode will work noticeably better due to the voltage being maintained about 2.5 volts higher than than it would be with no DC-DC charger. I like mine enough that I recently noticed that Redarc now has 40 and 50 amp dual input DC-DC chargers, and I will be upgrading mine to a 40 amp. :):)
NRALIFR 08/22/20 03:51am Truck Campers
RE: 50 AMP Tents :):)
NRALIFR 08/19/20 11:39am General RVing Issues
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