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RE: Using Propane while traveling in BC - Not Legal

Ok, then post a link to the corresponding regulation where it’s been codified. There should be a number associated with it. That’s what a provincial law enforcement officer would write on the citation if he were to cite you for illegally operating a recreational vehicle with the propane tank valves open. :):)
NRALIFR 07/14/19 03:35pm Travel Trailers
RE: Using Propane while traveling in BC - Not Legal

Those aren’t laws, ordinances, or regulations. Those are an insurance company’s attempt to reduce their risk exposure to zero. Insurance companies always want you to not do things that might result in a claim payout. Even if they say it’s about protecting children, kittens and puppies, it’s really about money. Ask ICBC what their thoughts are on skydiving. :):)
NRALIFR 07/14/19 03:12pm Travel Trailers
RE: Using Propane while traveling in BC - Not Legal

Yeah, there’s another law that’s never disobeyed. :R :):)
NRALIFR 07/14/19 07:07am Travel Trailers
RE: Do you unload when you camp? Really?

Unloading is just nuts. The camper allows you to take you toilet, kitchen, bed, etc with you. Why leave that stuff behind? 10’ bridges on your sight-seeing route for the day. Most of the time (>99%) the camper stays on the truck when we’re out. But, for the rare occasions when we want to do something that the camper would prevent us from doing, I’m glad it comes off. Whats nuts is those towable RV’s and motorized RV’s. Especially those motorized ones with 10’ or more of overhang behind the rear axle. Cwazy!! (Just kidding. Wink wink, nudge nudge). :W :):)
NRALIFR 07/13/19 05:27pm Truck Campers
RE: Dometic Fridge RM 2610 help-gas works, won't get cold

Yep, I’ve done that as well with an old RV fridge. Like Bob, I figured I had nothing to lose. It worked, and I continued to use the fridge until I got rid of the camper. It’s funny, there are many other types of equipment that can have a problem like this, and that obstruction inside the cooling unit would be called a “clinker”, and you’d use whatever mechanical means necessary to dislodge it, and continue using the equipment. You wouldn’t just throw it away if a little time and effort on your part could get it working again. But for some reason, it’s become accepted to say that at the first sign of internal problems like this you should just give up and buy a new fridge, or at least a new cooling unit. You might as well accept the fact that an RV absorption fridge is going to experience some pretty rough handling at times, and if the environment is rough enough to shake the fillings out of my teeth, it’s probably going to knock some of that internal plating off the cooling unit. If a large enough chunk ends up blocking one of the smaller orifices inside the unit, the cooling process is going to slow or stop. With a blockage like that, if you can get it to move into an area where it won’t cause a problem, you’ve saved yourself some money. This won’t work for an internal blockage caused by running the fridge out of level. Those tend to be immovable, and they won’t dissolve back to liquid either. I would only replace a fridge or cooling unit after trying this at least once. :):)
NRALIFR 07/13/19 05:35am Truck Campers
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Well, to be honest I don’t remember even looking at the static pressure. I would guess that it would be higher than 11.5”. I don’t really consider the static pressure to be significant unless you’re doing a leak check of the system. The regulator needs to have some load on it to regulate. But, you’re in luck. I didn’t want to spend another day up on a ladder painting the house, so I gave myself the day off (I can do that since I’m the boss of just darn near everything around here, at least while SWMBO is at work). :B It’s been almost a year since I replaced the LP regulator, and bought the digital manometer, so it was probably a good idea to check it again. As I said in the topic I linked to, the test port plug at the fridge is frozen and I can’t remove it. I twisted an Allen wrench into a pretzel last year trying to get it out and it never budged. After finding that the valve it’s part of cost $150, I quit trying to get it out. This is the pressure with the fridge, furnace, water heater, and the generator running. I had the generator loaded about 50% using an electric heater. The pressure is about the same with the furnace off, and the AC loading the generator. The displayed pressure is actually bouncing around +/- .1 or so, but I tried to adjust the regulator so that most of the time it was above 11.5”. And this is the pressure with nothing but the fridge running. Again, this is at the regulator. It might show slightly lower, and with less fluctuations if I could check it at the fridge. That’s less than one ounce per square inch difference between the two numbers. Edit: Being an unapologetic OCD kind of guy, I started wondering if maybe I was checking and adjusting the LP pressure with too much load on the system. After all, the generator and furnace are both gas hogs compared to the other LP appliances. So, I rechecked things with the generator off, but all the other LP appliances running. The readings were virtually identical. In order to maintain 11.5” h2o with the furnace, WH, stove/oven and fridge going, the regulator had to be adjusted such that the pressure rose to about 12.7-12.9” h2o with just the fridge running. It is what it is, I guess. :):)
NRALIFR 07/11/19 12:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Yes, the LP pressure is too low. It should be adjusted to maintain 11.5” with most of the LP appliances going. In fact, I would try to adjust it for 11.5” with the furnace, water heater, and generator going. If it won’t adjust, you’ll need to replace the regulator. Your regulator should be sized by the total btu’s of the LP appliances it’s supplying gas to. Here’s a link to a topic of mine that is very similar to this one. You might find it helpful. LP System Questions Topic :):)
NRALIFR 07/10/19 03:53am Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

NRALIFR My refer has two side vents and I've installed two 12v fans behind the top vent and when the fans are running I've actually noticed the refer losing ground and the inside warm up a degree or two so now I've quit running the fans totally. You're right about reading the installation manual and I will but I'm still saying if the installation was not proper, why does the unit run fine on ac and 12v BUT not propane. Also, My two friends with Dometics of the same vintage complain about the same issue. Logic is clear to me in this case that there is something not right with the propane part of these refers. I'm tired of hearing about how blameless Dometic is and when I reach out for help to their tech people they are clueless, rude and condescending. At this point I think I'm beating a dead horse in trying to find a solution and getting wound up in company loyalty issues etc rather than dealing with facts. Your logic is correct. I know you’ve mentioned that it works fine on AC more than once but I forgot that when I made my last post. I would check the LP pressure before doing anything else. All I can say regarding fans is that on my current unit, I have one fan in back, and it’s mounted about halfway up in an area where there’s a lot of room between the tubing. It’s pointing up, blowing through the condenser fins at the top, and the roof vent above it. It’s actually a fairly slow speed, quiet fan. You can hardly hear it. I don’t think high speed fans are necessary back there. One thing that is different about running in LP mode versus AC mode, is the waste heat from the flame coming out of the chimney. There are more btu’s of heat to exhaust out the top vent when the fridge is running in LP mode than when it’s in AC mode. The baffle at the very top of the fridge should direct all of the heat coming off the cooling unit tubes and fins AND coming out of the chimney to the top vent, and not let any of it enter the dead air space that’s typically left on top of the fridge. If there’s even a small gap at the sides of the top baffle, heat will enter the area behind it. I’ve found that it’s best to fill that area with insulation to prevent that. The heat produced by the flame doesn’t all go into the boiler perk tube of the cooling unit like it does when running in AC mode. The chimney should have a twisted strip of metal hanging down close to the bottom called a baffle. It’s supposed to concentrate the heat in the proper area so the solution inside the perk tube will boil. If that baffle isn’t there, the heat just flows up the chimney and the boiler doesn’t get hot enough. Even with the baffle though, there’s a lot of heat flowing out of the chimney. Enough to burn you when the flame is on. So, make sure the baffle is there, and that the end closest to the flame isn’t burnt off. Make sure there’s nothing obstructing the flow of heat coming out the chimney. Also make sure the chimney is clean of rust. A 10 gauge shotgun wire brush can be used to clean it. Of course you have to pull the baffle out for that. Here’s an image of a cooling unit I like to refer to. You can see a representation of the baffle in the lower right. It looks like a figure eight. :):)
NRALIFR 07/08/19 11:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Not dead, yet :p

Good to see an update from you, Matt. I’ve wondered what became of your Amerigo. Looking forward to seeing some pics. I don’t know how you’ve survived this long without a camping fix! :):)
NRALIFR 07/08/19 03:48pm Truck Campers
RE: Running Air Conditioner Via Inverter while Towing/Driving

You must be delusional. The OP has a GRAND CHEROKEE, NOT a Truck. Besides, I want YOU in front of me if I rear end you with 10 gallons of gasoline sticking out the back of your truck. I would bet, Having Gasoline mounted like you have must be a violation of some Law, as long as being plain stupid. Ever hear of the Ford Pinto:h Doug You know what blather like this always sounds like to me? ENCOURAGEMENT! Thanks old man. :):)
NRALIFR 07/08/19 02:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Ernie, where’s the refer’s top vent on your RV? Roof or sidewall? If it’s in the sidewall, that’s essentially the same as a refer installed in a slideout. Either way though, you should get the installers guide for your fridge, and compare the clearances, insulation, and air baffles with your install. :):)
NRALIFR 07/08/19 12:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Black tank splash shield problem

“I pulled the toilet today to install a new blade seal, and what I see seems to be a splash shield just below the drain pipe.” I’m not sure what your seeing in the drain pipe, but I’d bet you dollars to donuts it’s not supposed to be there. Nothing should be in the pipe between the commode and the black tank that will impede the flow of solids and TP into the tank. :):)
NRALIFR 07/07/19 08:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Saw my first 2020 GMC HD camping this weekend

Until they start making tires square or octagonal, I’ll take my wheel wells round, please. :):)
NRALIFR 07/06/19 02:49pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Nothing wrong with your Yellow Jacket test kit, or a digital unit like the one I linked to. Both require the same type of connection to the LP system, one just displays the pressure in an analog/mechanical fashion, the other displays it digitally/electronically. Both types of gauges would need to be calibrated periodically, or at least checked against a real water column manometer to ensure its accuracy. That’s probably why a lot of guys prefer to simply make one out of clear tubing and a ruler. Unless your ruler shrinks or grows, or you use one of those fisherman’s rulers that always measure long, there’s no calibration needed. The Yellow Jacket kits I’ve seen have always come with a tube nipple to connect the gauge to a test port. Is yours not the right size? Have you located a test port? Here’s a picture of the backside of my fridge, showing the location of the best test port you should use when checking the LP pressure to the fridge burner. Unfortunately, that plug on mine is stuck and I couldn’t get it out. There are a couple of other test ports on my camper. My regulator at the LP tanks has a test port, so I used that one instead. There are a lot of little things that can cause an absorption fridge to not perform well, and low LP pressure is one of them. If your fridge works well on AC, and poorly on LP, you have an LP problem, not a cooling unit problem. The statement that they are coolers is totally false. If they are working right, you should see it maintain around 0-10 degrees in the freezer, and 35 degrees in the fridge section. In fact, these are the temps I typically see on my fridge. The fridge probe is right under the cooling fins. This was when I was in Phoenix last year, and the outside temp was over 100, and inside the camper was about 78. :):)
NRALIFR 07/06/19 02:07pm Tech Issues
RE: DIY - Torklift Extension Handles

Torklift Extension Handles 2.0? :):)
NRALIFR 07/06/19 04:37am Truck Campers
RE: BLM considering restrictions on dispersed camping in Utah

Nothing really new here. The self righteous are always smugly moralistic and intolerant of the opinions and behavior of others. Convinced that they are right in their beliefs, attitudes, and behavior and that other people with differing ideas are wrong. :):)
NRALIFR 07/05/19 06:49pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: DIY - Torklift Extension Handles

Nice work Brad! Excellent fabrication solution. You better patent it quick! :W :):)
NRALIFR 07/05/19 04:52pm Truck Campers
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

This and other models are available. Amazon: Digital Manometer :):)
NRALIFR 07/05/19 07:09am Tech Issues
RE: How about some common courtesy...

Nralifr- Speak softly and carry a steam iron. :):)
NRALIFR 07/04/19 04:28pm General RVing Issues
RE: Honda 2000: surprisingly poor oil fill tube design

OK -- now I get it. Suboptimal design is no big deal ......... Well, in my ever so humble opinion, it’s a more common issue than you think. At least based on my experience, it’s something that I’ve dealt with on so many small engines that the occasional good design gets my attention. I’ve had many small engine driven devices that you couldn’t drain the oil without getting the used oil on stuff you really don’t want oil on (like belts). My Yamaha 1000 gen is just like your Honda, which is why I suggested the oil fill process I did. My Husqvarna lawnmower has no oil drain plug at all. If you do something less than brilliant like not get the dipstick cap twisted on right and you don’t notice that it was loose the whole time you were mowing the grass until you’re done, and you just KNOW dirt got down in there, you get to turn the lawnmower upside down to drain the dirty oil. My truck has the oil drain plug on the side of the oil pan instead of the bottom, and if you misjudge how far out the oil is going to shoot when you remove the plug you’ve got a big mess on the floor. My tractor has a nice oil drain system. A valve rather than a plug, and a tube that stays connected to the valve to direct the old oil right into the pan without splattering. :):)
NRALIFR 07/04/19 02:23pm Tech Issues
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