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RE: New Thermostat Question

If it does not turn on the a/C fan then something is wrong It’s been wrong for over 20 years then. I don’t need it to do that, and I wouldn’t use it even if it did. It’s of no value to me. I do however need to keep my tanks from freezing when we’re traveling in freezing weather. I was out just recently as a winter storm system moved through the TX panhandle and western OK, we had several nights in the twenties and mid-teens. Nothing froze because I know what to do with my TC as the temps get colder and colder. That’s what almost 20 years of experience with the same RV gives you. I’m trying to fine tune my cold-weather processes by taking advantage of the features some of these new digital thermostats have, like the “Minimum Cycle Period” this thermostat has. I’ve run into a problem with it though. I’ll explain in my next post. :):)
NRALIFR 01/19/21 05:34pm Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

Thanks Don, I wish that would work. It’s a simple solution, and I like to keep things simple. Unfortunately, the design of this furnace on the intake side has no clear air intake air duct. :):) That is exactly the way my air return grill is. Test it out with a box fan. You may need to use a draft gauge to see it working. I’ll give it a try. Thanks! :):)
NRALIFR 01/19/21 05:14am Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question has never turned the AC fan on either. Not sure why, but even with the original mechanical t-stat, I didn’t have manual control of the AC fan. Just high and low speed, which I’ve found isn’t really needed. Keep in mind that what I’m wanting (needing) to ensure is that my black and gray tanks and valves don’t freeze when I’m not using the LP furnace as my primary source of heat. Only the furnace is ducted to the tank area. I can keep the air stirred inside the camper by other, quieter means than by running the AC fan. :):)
NRALIFR 01/19/21 05:11am Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

Thanks Don, I wish that would work. It’s a simple solution, and I like to keep things simple. Unfortunately, the design of this furnace on the intake side has no clear air intake air duct. There is an intake air grill. In fact in the fourth picture, the grill has been removed, and you can see through the opening it was covering a bit of what’s behind it. The flex hoses are on the output side of the furnace, and go to various heat registers in the camper. The space the furnace is installed in is just a cavity between the kitchen sink cabinet, and the bathroom sink cabinet, and there are huge pass-through holes in the plywood sides of that cavity for wires and plumbing to go through. Of course, air will move freely through them as well. So, there’s not a single air intake point, despite the return air grill being there. I’m going to try using the “Minimum Cycle Period Adjustment” in the new thermostat, and see if that will do what I need. I should probably play with it a little in my garage before our next trip, which could be soon. Thanks again. :):)
NRALIFR 01/18/21 07:04pm Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

You’re right Drew. Thanks for waking me up. I may be able to accomplish what I need by using one of the settings on the new thermostat. It’s got a “Minimum Cycle Period Adjustment”, that defaults to 12 minutes for gas heat, but can be set for as long as 60 minutes. It’s not hard to change, but I’d probably have to keep a cheat sheet nearby because I’d forget how to do it. When I’d need it, a single cycle every hour would probably be just enough to keep things from freezing. That setting could also be used when we’re dry camping totally without shore power or generator, and would help minimize the battery usage. Thanks again. :):)
NRALIFR 01/18/21 03:57pm Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

Thanks Bman, I’m going to look into doing that. I would only be using this when we either have shore power, or I leave my Yamaha 1000 “buzzing away all night” to provide power for extended periods. All that’s needed is to keep the waste tanks above freezing. If I do this, it will of course have a separate on/off switch. What if I also ran that circuit through a PWM speed control to slow the fan motor down? I doubt it needs to run at full speed to do what I need. Any comments or opinions? :):)
NRALIFR 01/18/21 02:38pm Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

NO. RV Furnace fans CANNOT be operated by itself. Once the Furnace fan comes ON, then the ignition sequence happens. ALL the 2 wires do is transmit the 12 volts TO the furnace to start a Heat cycle. Nothing else. When you ask for heat, the wall tstat sends the 12 volts TO the furnace and then it operates until the Wall tstat is satisfied. Doug Thanks Doug. I had a feeling that’s what the answer was going to be. The new digital t-stat should do everything I need it to do, without the added complications of having to override the programmable functions that the RiteTemp stat wanted to default to. I thought I needed a programmable t-stat and the two-speed fan control at one time, but discovered after using it for several years that I really didn’t. It’s a nicer looking thermostat too. :):)
NRALIFR 01/18/21 10:03am Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

You are asking for the fan to run but not have the gas/ignition sequence to follow. I suppose you could run parallel (? a second set anyway) wires to just the fan part, by-passing the circuit board etc, with a switch on those wires so just the fan would run. Can't you run the A/C fan now without turning on the A/C? ISTR that is available to just circulate the air. Correct. It would be advantageous to be able to run the furnace fan without the furnace producing heat when I’m heating just with electricity. The furnace also heats the black and gray tank area, and when the temps get down in the teens and lower, I have to make sure the furnace runs once in a while so the dump valves don’t freeze. The way things are installed right now, neither the AC nor the furnace fan will turn on manually. Thanks. :):)
NRALIFR 01/18/21 10:02am Tech Issues
New Thermostat Question

I have this furnace in my TC. There are only two connections to the thermostat, and they are labeled “Thermo” and “+Thermo” I’m installing a new thermostat, and it’s connected like this. G is connected to G, and W is connected to W. Both the AC and furnace work as they should. The issue I’m wanting to resolve is the FAN switch on the t-stat doesn’t turn the furnace fan on when it’s in the “On” position. It behaves as if the FAN switch is always in “Auto”. I would like to be able to manually turn on the furnace fan, if that’s possible. I don’t need to control the AC fan manually. The original t-stat was a mechanical type, and I can’t remember if it had a fan Auto/On switch or not. I suspect it didn’t. I replaced the mechanical stat many years ago with a RiteTemp digital programmable model. The new t-stat had the ability to wire the fan Auto/On switch so that it would function as a Hi/Lo switch, which I did. The AC has a two-speed fan, but the furnace doesn’t. I found that I never used the High fan speed though, because the AC will freeze us out on low. The buttons on the RiteTemp have gotten difficult to use, and we never use the programmable function of it, so I’ve replaced it with a non-programmable model. The way this was all installed by Lance, is the “Thermo” and +Thermo” wires, that are clearly labeled on the furnace pigtail, were run to the wall t-stat location. I’ve verified with a VOM that the two blue wires in this plug: Are these two wires behind the wall t-stat. As you can see, they aren’t connected to the t-stat. They are connected to the pink and purple wires in the 8-wire cable, which runs up to the roof AC. I assume they run through a relay in the AC to prevent the furnace and AC being turned on together. Is there a way to wire the furnace to the wall t-stat so that the Fan Auto/On switch will turn the fan on manually? :):)
NRALIFR 01/18/21 09:15am Tech Issues
RE: Drill Holster (tip)

Post a topic giving a helpful tip. Get told by a stranger you’re doing it wrong with an RV they haven’t even seen. Priceless. :):) It's an open discussion. Everyone can learn something from the discussion. Yes the OP gave a tip on keeping the drill handy. Meanwhile the OP and others may learn it's not necessary to have jacks down before entering trailer. I see it as a win for everyone. No one has to be offended. I agree 100%. No one has to be offensive. Its just as likely the one who disputed could learn something too. Like how to not be offensive maybe? If the owner says the jacks must be down before entering the trailer, then you stay out until the jacks are down. :):)
NRALIFR 01/17/21 12:40pm Travel Trailers
RE: Drill Holster (tip)

Post a topic giving a helpful tip. Get told by a stranger you’re doing it wrong with an RV they haven’t even seen. Priceless. :):)
NRALIFR 01/17/21 10:47am Travel Trailers
RE: New 2021 Host Cascade

Finally had time to take the complete rig on a trip. Went to Lake Havasu for a few days. All was as we expected. New truck handled Cascade and boat well. Cascade was very comfortable. OK Bill, now you’re starting to make me a little bit mad (envious)!!! :M :):)
NRALIFR 01/17/21 07:54am Truck Campers
RE: Social distancing

If you follow the most pessimistic advice from the “experts” who are most fearful of backlash, anger and lawsuits from the most paranoid, squirmy, and litigious people who might be listening to their advice, you actually can’t do anything at all without being infected. :):)
NRALIFR 01/17/21 07:39am General RVing Issues
RE: TCs and Covid Vaccinations

I’m not at all against vaccinations, but proof of this one is well on its way to becoming the latest form of virtue signaling. We may very well find our society with a new, permanent underclass of “untouchables” soon. :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 09:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Renogy 40amp dc charger

SW5 is definitely OFF (Up) for Lithium battery SW3 and SW4 are therefore set to ON (Down) to disregard float voltage SW2 and SW1 set the bulk or constant voltage for your battery, so if you are needing to set 14.4 volts, then yes, SW1 would be OFF (Up) and SW2 would be ON (Down) Wow! I don’t like DIP switches where ON is down, and I really don’t like Renogy’s instructions for installing the charger. :W :B I can understand why it might be hard to understand. :h :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 08:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Renogy 40amp dc charger

The D+ wire simply needs to be connected to a switched 12v source that is only hot when the ignition is on. If the circuit feeding the input side of the charger is only active when the ignition is on, you can connect the D+ wire to that as well. If the input circuit to the charger is hot all the time, you’ll need to find a circuit that’s switched on when the ignition is on. The instructions include this caution which is 100% correct. I would recommend running the D+ wire through a manual switch, or running the input circuit to the charger through a constant-duty solenoid that is on a manual switch so you have control over when the charger will be on. You don’t want the charger to be on unless the alternator is producing power. I had forgotten that when I installed my Redarc charger that I put the input circuit on a solenoid that is connected to one of the upfitter switches in the truck. The switch stays on most of the time, as it’s purpose is to prevent the DC-DC charger from turning on in the rare instance that I need to have the ignition switched on but the engine not running. :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 08:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium and DC-DC Charger?

When I get on Autozone and look up an alternator for a 2002 F350 with a 7.3, I get a bunch of 110 amp alternators to choose from. The better question however, is how many amps does the compressor fridge draw when running, then size the DC-DC charger a little larger. You could actually size it at exactly the same as the running amps because the compressor isn’t going to be running all the time normally. Don’t size it less though, you don’t want the charger to always be playing catch-up recharging the battery. :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 05:53pm Truck Campers
RE: TCs and Covid Vaccinations

To you as well! If any of you are ever going through Little Rock on I-40, you need to stop by NRALIFR’s Bar and Grill. I know the owner, and he’ll treat you well. :B :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 02:35pm Truck Campers
RE: Making Oil

When I was exploring DPF cleaning shops, the best ones were very up front about the fact that they will most likely not be able to 100% clean a DPF that has been in service. The machines they have use a very extensive process of cleaning them, and when it’s done they actually count the number of cells that are still blocked. Once that number reaches XX% of the total number of cells, the DPF needs to replaced. :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 10:21am Tow Vehicles
RE: Making Oil

Yup, I struggled with that as well. Ford 6.4L owners that deleted and tuned theirs typically were very happy with the results, especially the dramatic increase in fuel mileage from not doing all those @#$& regens. When I traded my 2010 in, I was seeing erratic and unpredictable regen behavior that was concerning to me, and that was after paying for a DPF replacement. The majority of my trips then and now have a work and play component to them, and the last thing I need is an unreliable truck to deal with. Good luck with yours, I hope your shop can resolve the problem without having to hand over too much $$$. Do you know if the DPF on yours is designed to be taken off and cleaned? Mine wasn’t, although there are DPF cleaning shops that will even take a “non-serviceable” unit like mine was, cut it open and clean it, then weld it back together using flanges so it can be serviced more easily in the future. :):)
NRALIFR 01/15/21 09:44am Tow Vehicles
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