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 > Your search for posts made by 'Octaneforce' found 43 matches.

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RE: I got the shakes

Bringing back this thread. I finally got around to installing centramatic rings on all 4 corners. The truck is now silky smooth below 60 and these rings really do stop vibrations, HOWEVER, as soon as i exceed 60mph the shake starts. With the rings its very easy now to identify the shake. Its more like a wobble, and im sure its coming from the rear. The strange thing is, once the shake starts it doesnt go away, even when i slow down to 55. I have to slow all the way down to like 40 for it to “reset”. Im starting to think i have a bent axle. This issue is depressing. Whats funny is how awesome this thing drives now below 60 mph. Its like **** racecar with all these new parts. It just has shaking fits after that speed.
Octaneforce 11/21/19 03:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Strange house battery issue Heres my current converter. It was under the oven/kitchen area as mentioned (thanks!). I dont think its original.
Octaneforce 11/21/19 11:38am Class A Motorhomes
Strange house battery issue

My rig is a 1993 fleetwood 30ft chevy class a. So i think i need a little education before i can properly explain whats happening, but I’ll try. When plugged in, all my 12v powered items are struggling as if the house batteries are dead. The furnace blows slowly and doesnt light, the hot water heater doesnt light, the lights in the cieling are dim, etc. So i guess my question is, why arent the batteries charging? How are the house batteries “tendered”? If i shut off the house batteries while its plugged in, everything gets even more weak. Its like im not getting enough voltage to my 12v appliances. The 115v outlets are fine. Im not sure where to start.
Octaneforce 11/11/19 04:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New to class A

Uber for sure. Especially since we like to drink once we are set up and dont have to drive. If we are going somewhere that has alot of site seeing, i put my motorcycle on a hitch carrier. Alot easier than towing a car but of course riding a bike around has its disadvantages. Ive driven my class a to get supplies/go to destination during a stay before. Total pain in the butt to unhook and drive off then come back and redo everything. Ive only done that like twice.
Octaneforce 10/07/19 11:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling advise

On my Trek I noticed an improvement when I added the AirTabs to the rear of my coach. I also had four corner air bags which I could control from the dash to stiffen them up if there were heavy crosswinds. I had the True-center steering stabilizer which also provided some directional stability. I never felt the need for a trac bar, or any other suspension mod. It is important to load your Trek as you would travel and get it weighed on all four corners or at least the front and rear axles. The rig will handle better if the front axle is loaded close to the MAX weight allowable and the tire air pressure adjusted for the weight. Does this theory also apply to the p30 with an independent front end? Also how would i add weight to the front if needed?
Octaneforce 10/04/19 11:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Handling advise

Sounds like you need a supersteer trac bar. I just did one on my p30. Its not going to turn the rig into an f1 car but it does alleviete what your describing.
Octaneforce 09/29/19 06:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

If the bead wasn't seated that would lead me to believe there was no air left in the tire first. Sounds to me like a bunch of incompetent clowns did your tires. Wow, just wow. If the valve stems break off, it's a pretty good guess that there won't be much air in the tires quite soon thereafter. Logically it would seem that the tire unseating itself is a result of the valve stem failure, which itself could be due to an inappropriate valve stem or inappropriately heavy attachment (an extension?) put on it. Oh yeah now that you mention it, they had big extensions on the inner valve stems so the inner tire could easily be aired up. The big extension along with the vibration could very well be why they broke off. The shop that fixed it during my trip didnt use any extensions. So now the valve is pretty deep in there. Im not sure how i would fish a tire inflator inside the wheel to adjust the air pressure. And to the guys who are asking what shop/clowns did the tires initially, its a local long island shop that i really dont want to bash because they were always so good to me prior to this issue. They still are, they really try to fix it they just keep failing. Its a heavy duty truck shop that works on buses and big rigs all day so i dont know why they cant nail down my rv issues. I think they are just used to working on nice newer trucks and not peice of **** 25 year old p30’s that jump lanes when they hit a pebble. Beleive me i am super frustrated and i appreciate the sympathy. I will be ordering centramtic rings when i get home. If that doesnt improve the situation im selling it and buying something on a ford platform.
Octaneforce 09/21/19 05:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

Or that the tire bead broke loose from the rim??? The old fill valves looked like gold/brass color. By debeaded i mean the tire was not "stuck" to the rim anymore. I didnt see any balancing beads. I dont even know if they are actually in there. The balancing beads brand they claimed to have used were equal brand bags.
Octaneforce 09/21/19 10:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

Left for a trip last night. The coach is tolerable. It doesnt shake much once i set the cruise control at a reasonable speed. It felt a little strange about 200 miles in. Stopped for a break and realized BOTH inner rear tires debeaded. DAMNIT. Im at a truck shop now having it looked at. Appears the filler valves broke off. Not really sure how or when that happened. I cant win with this thing.
Octaneforce 09/20/19 05:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

So the question now is, can i have these tires road force balanced with the beads still in the tire? Or does the tire have to come off and get cleaned out? Really amazing help from everyone here! I needed this It sounds like you might be on to something. With that said, if you want to balance them another way, the beads need to come out. The only way to do that is remove the tire. I cant have beads in the tires along with centramatic rings? I dont see why not. I feel like they would work together and allow for the ability to correct huge imbalances. Or at the very least, one would correct the other. However this is total bro science and i could be wrong.
Octaneforce 09/18/19 08:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

maybe they left the beads in the bag? :B Believe it or not thats how they're supposed to do it. Drop in the number of bags required, they break open when you head down the road. In ours they've worked well. I think the bag is part of the problem. One guy on youtube dismounts a tire that had beads for a short amount of time. He rolls the unmounted tire on the the ground and you can see the bag get all caught up and create clumps of beads.
Octaneforce 09/18/19 08:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes Heres what im thinking as a solution. They seem to have great feedback.
Octaneforce 09/17/19 09:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

I drove a big Penske truck from St Louis to Naples a couple of years ago. It had 22.5 inch tires and must have had beads to balance the tires. Every time I came to a stop and started off again, the tires would be out of balance. I'd have to drive a couple of miles for them to smooth out again. I'm not a fan of putting a bunch of beads, powder or dust inside tires. I'll always go with a good wheel balance. I'd rather pay for balancing my tires than have them put crystals inside them for free. I have noticed that if i keep the truck on cruise control and dont hit any bumps sometimes the shake will seem to fade. Ive been watching tons of youtube videos about issues with the bead balancing and im 99% sure the beads are my issue. The can clump up on any amount of moisture, and i can see on the tires where the techs used lube to mount them! Theres tons of it! If you ask me, that lube must have made its way to the inside of the tire bead and mixed with the beads, causing them to clump. So the question now is, can i have these tires road force balanced with the beads still in the tire? Or does the tire have to come off and get cleaned out? Really amazing help from everyone here! I needed this
Octaneforce 09/17/19 09:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: I got the shakes

These tires were balanced with sandbags. Could this be a culprit? Also can they be road forced balanced even with the sandbags? Just to clarifiy, The 2 tires they replaced were the drivers side rear. The shake does feel like its from the rear. The shop said they had the truck off the ground with the tires spinning and could see the two rear drivers side tires “hopping” so they swapped them. Again, it didnt make a difference. I wouldnt be surprised if it was u joints. The shake seems to change with resistance. For example, its much worse when im coasting, but seems to clear up a little during acceleration. Also it wont shake too bad at all at 60, but if i go up to 70 the shaking fit begins and i have to go all the way down to 50 to make it stop. Its really weird. Almost seems like rear end to me now that i think about it. Im also in an urban area and its hard to get the rig up to speed. Its a chore to drive it all the way to a highway which i why i think the shop is butchering the diagnosis.
Octaneforce 09/16/19 08:42am Class A Motorhomes
I got the shakes

My platform is 1993 fleetwood coronado class a p30 with rear disk brakes (p32?) and 454. I put 6 new tires on it a few months ago and a shake developed as soon as i got it back from the tire shop, so i assumed it was the tires. They are sumihoto 8r19.5. They were not the cheapest tires i could get. I never cheap out on tires. Anyway the rig has been back to the shop about a half a dozen times for this shake and it has not changed. They replace something say its fixed, and then the truck behaves exactly the same. So far ive done 4 new bilstien shocks, bilstien steering stabilizer, supersteer trac bar upgrade, 2 new rims, 2 of the new tires replaced (warrantied). The front end is tight, springs and airbags are fairly new and i keep the bags at 80psi. Ive experimented with different bag pressures and never noticed a difference. If i continue to pour money into this pile of junk im going to change to non bag coil springs from supersteer. Thats would pretty much be the last thing i could think of. Unless my wheel cover simulators are making it shake, which i didnt think of until just now. The shake feels like an up and down shutter. It starts at 60 and gets worse as you accelerate. I will say the truck drives very steady and feels safe with all the new parts, it just shakes. Which is agonizing.
Octaneforce 09/15/19 12:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: MPG for Various Class A Motorhomes

My 93 30ft p30 with a tbi 454 chugs right along and achieves 8mpg at 70-75mph. Going slower doesnt seem to help much. I wont go anywhere without adding lucas upper cylinder lubricant to the fuel. I honestly get an extra 1/2 mpg since i started doing that. I also removed the cat. I previously couldnt get more than 7.5 mpg. I can't even believe that anyone would drive any behemoth that fast, let alone an older gasser. Besides every thing else, most of these tires, have a max rating of 75mph and having a steer tire blowout, at that speed, can't be any fun, at all. Also, if your speed has no effect on MPG, then there's some people at MIT, that would be very interested in talking with you, about how you have managed to violate the laws of Physics. To each his own, on the Lucus lube. Haha maybe i should have went to college after all. Its definitely a measureable amount better if i go slower (not buy much at all), its just not worth it to me if i can legally go with the flow of traffic. Hey a passenger car doing 80 can blow out a front tire too. Everything is a risk to some degree. I keep my rig very well maintained and look it over before every trip and at every stop. I understand what your saying though. I go slow when its necessary. The lucas works! Lol it sounds like a hoax but it helps. I also like that it adds some lubricity to the fuel. I need this old chevy big block to last a while!
Octaneforce 06/02/19 02:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: MPG for Various Class A Motorhomes

My 93 30ft p30 with a tbi 454 chugs right along and achieves 8mpg at 70-75mph. Going slower doesnt seem to help much. I wont go anywhere without adding lucas upper cylinder lubricant to the fuel. I honestly get an extra 1/2 mpg since i started doing that. I also removed the cat. I previously couldnt get more than 7.5 mpg.
Octaneforce 06/02/19 11:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hybrid electric/propane tank-less water heater

I have the girard tankless hot water heater in my coach. Its hands down the best thing i ever did. I take boiling hot showers as long as i want. It doesnt seem to eat up much propane. And its only using propane while theres a call for hot water. It doesnt fire on and off all day like a regular tank heater. Their customer service is also outstanding. If it is so great, WHY would you even know their Customer Service is outstanding??????????? A GOOD product will mean you will never have contac with Customer Service. Doug PS. A Blind Hog will find an acorn. There are thousands of Girards out there and most work as designed. But, in my experience, the hundred or so I have seen over the years have operational problems. MORE so, Than standard 120/LP water Heaters. I had to speak to them twice. First when i didnt realize theres a flow control so the water doesnt come out like a jet stream. They walked me thru how to adjust it, which is a peice of cake. Another time i had a freakishly cold night and i didnt add antifreeze to my water tank, and a fitting inside the water heater froze and busted. It was my own fault. But they mailed me a replacement part within days of contacting them, which i thought was awesome. So yea these flash heaters do come with their quirks that an old school rv’er just isnt going to deal with. But for someone like myself who is stubborn in the opposite ways, i do my research and work out the kinks so now i have unlimited hot water which everyone (especially the wife) is thrilled with. I see it as one less thing anyone can complain about (as long as it keeps working).
Octaneforce 06/02/19 11:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ball joints?

Correction. I just went out and looked. Mine is rear disc.
Octaneforce 06/02/19 11:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ball joints?

Be very careful when replacing ball joints on a P-30 chassis. Some P-30 chassis have rear drum brakes and some have rear disc brakes. Drum brakes are on the smaller lighter P-30 chassis. I had two front end ball joint failures because a local shop installed the wrong ones twice. I have disc brakes and they installed the undersized ball joints for drum brakes. And yes they will only last a year or less if undersized ball joints are installed. If you hear a clunking sound the tapered section of the joint is probably working back and forth in the hole work hardening the shaft and elongating the hole until you are going around a corner at 60 mph and failure occurs. I think mine has rear drums. The gwv is 14,600. Will the balljoints for the disc brake version fit a drum brake truck? Sounds like an easy upgrade.
Octaneforce 06/02/19 08:57am Class A Motorhomes
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