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 > Your search for posts made by 'OleManOleCan' found 133 matches.

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RE: Spare Tire question- doesnt match our new TT tires

I won’t buy LR Cs. Ds are tuffer. Ds are tougher and Es even tougher still. Es. have stronger sidewalls and I like em better towing in curves. Either are better than any Passenger tire.
OleManOleCan 08/22/19 11:23am Travel Trailers
RE: Run the USA is what?

Would be nice if the TT was small enough that I would not have to mess around with WDH's etc. Just quick hook up an go. That's not really an option, my TT is only 18' and there's no way I would tow it without a WDH with sway control. Even behind a 2500 it moved around more than I liked and that was without wind or panic maneuvers. To each their own but I'd never tow a TT without sway control. That said putting the bars on or taking them off takes maybe 30s so it's not like it has any meaningful impact on our setup and tear down time. I suppose it depends, our old 20' TT behind the our old 2009 2500hd did not care if the WDH was on or off. With the 1/2 ton we used the WDH half the time, less 100 miles runs I did not even mess with it. Each trailer does pull different for sure. I get what you are saying about the time deal, it just seems like it takes forever when is raining out. I was using a Rigid Hitch and swore getting the bars on took a few minutes by the time I dug out the bar, set the pins, jack the trailer up to get the bars on, etc. Granted this was 7-8 years ago so my mind is foggy:) When I had a 30' trailer I used WD bars. Now I'm towing a 20' w/o bars. My HD F-150 Echoboost is a beast for towing. My camper only weighs 3300 lbs, and I'm using a Reese 6000# hitch. Set it up right, put on E-rated tires. Pay attention to air in the tires, and go, go, go. You also have to pay attention to weight in the bed of the truck and how you load the trailer. Years of towing make a big difference deciding when towing is set up just right.
OleManOleCan 08/22/19 11:18am Travel Trailers
RE: Is there something wrong here?

well I won,t own a slide,no need, but I think there suppose to go in out easy, lube and adjustments are needed. if you can,t do the work? call a local rv tech ,not the dealer, tech will come to you , X2! Needs fixed, should slide in/out easily without making odd noises.. I purposely avoid slides for this reason. You WILL need to either diagnose and fix it yourself or find a dealer to work on it.. Now, where are all of those folks on this forum who claim slides never break? Perhaps they would be willing to come to you and fix it for free.. I'm another who don't care for slides. It's something to sweep off if you have one to keep from sliding in with leaves Pine Straw and small limbs. In my case, it's my wife and I camping. When we camp, we spend very little time in our camper. My current RV is a 18 foot 1975 Fleetwood Prowler that I have rebuilt. I have a soft spot for Vintage RVs.
OleManOleCan 08/19/19 12:09pm Travel Trailers
RE: New to RVing.....please help

I just got a coachmen apex 31' and have been reading all the manuals and watching a ton of videos. And so I went there to where its stored and checked all the inventory that it had. Now there were a few things I had no idea what they were....I was hoping someone on here could help me. Also, I've heard its imperative to get a surge protector for electric hookup, is that true? Here are some pictures of what I'm not sure of. Any help is much appreciated thank you. Ps I'm adding in all the photos I took just in case you noticed something I didnt.***Link Removed*** Several years ago I was camping and a friend was in the next spot. Lightening hit the huge Pine tree between us. It came down and run in on his electrical system. Fried it. I had a surge protector. My camper suffered no damage. I'm a believer.
OleManOleCan 08/13/19 11:44am Travel Trailers
RE: Foam in tires

Yes, It's called Fix-a-Flat: My tire man cusses a blue streak when someone brings in a flat with Flat Fix sprayed in it. They have to clean it up... That said I carry a can of it for emergencies when I'm not close to civilization. I used some one day in the rain, and that was when he told me to pass on Flat Fix. (I'd rather hear him cuss than get out in a cold rain for a flat)
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 11:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Are Airstreams low maintenance?

I've never seen a no maintenance trailer. I think all of em benefit from TLC, inside and out. Sometimes it's the little things that make the difference. Some trailers have a steeper learning curve than others.
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 11:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Hitch Release Tips w Gas Strut Truck

This has been discussed often here. You have just found an important safety feature, and the solution to the issue is ridiculously easy. Last thing in the world you want is the trailer hopping off the ball as you tool down the freeway. It's always bad. So the latch has been designed to grip harder whenever the ball pulls down/out of the cup-and-shoe that holds it. So if you are already lifting or if the TV is pushing backward on the ball, it resists unlatching. All you have to do is chock the trailer wheels so it won't roll forward, then put the TV in drive and put a tiny bit of "pull" on the trailer BEFORE you attempt to lift the trailer off the ball. You will then be able to unlatch with one finger, no hammer, no hitting, no hocus-pocus. No need to pull hard. Usually just slipping the TV into gear and let idle pull a wee bit. Release the latch, shut off the engine, and start jacking the hitch up. If you insist on using force, you will eventually damage the latch and put yourself at risk of having the trailer come loose. Don't DO that. :h Naturist, not sure what you are talking about. On standard ball hitches there is a partial ball receptacle pocket in the FRONT of the hitch. Putting pressure by chalking the trailer then pulling forward with your tow vehicle WILL make it impossible to separate the two. If you study a typical hitch coupler you can easily see what I am saying.. height=300 width=300 I think what you meant to say is chalk the trailer wheels, put your tongue jack down on the ground, flip the hitch lock into the unlocked position. THEN BACKUP YOUR VEHICLE SLIGHTLY! This takes tension off of the ball and socket and allows the ball to come out of the indentation in the front of the hitch pocket. When you flip the hitch lock up it releases the clamp on the rear underside of the ball just enough to allow the ball to move out of the front part of the hitch socket and past the released clamp.. If you study the hitch clamp you will get a better understanding of how it works.. height=300 width=300 It is also very helpful to LIGHTLY LUBRICATE the ball and socket with some grease. Op also needs to make sure they are using the correct ball size for their hitch, it is easy to mistake a 2" ball and 2 5/8" ball or a 1 7/8" ball for a 2" ball. The ball size should be well marked on the trailer tongue hitch. Not all RVs use 2 5/8" balls.. Under no circumstances should you attempt to use a smaller ball than what is marked on your trailer to make disconnecting easier.. On edit.. Forgot to mention, release and remove your weight distribution arms before attempting to disconnect the ball.. WD puts additional pressure on the ball when installed and engaged. I agree. This is the easy way. I also tow with a little bit of White Lithium Grease on the Ball and in the hitch. A number of years ago I camped next to a truck driver, and he told me the easy way to get off the ball... I still think about him now and then, when I see a trailer come in and the driver pulls up and does a perfect back up. Just right.
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 11:04pm Travel Trailers
RE: Bunkhouses similar to 272BHS with light hitch weight

For Safety sake... Forget about Dry Weight. The weight you want to count is trailer, water, propane, camping utensils, Outdoor furniture, Groceries ect... Don't forget to include things like tool boxes, food and bicycles too. It's awful easy to load heavy and not realize it. I eventually upgraded to a 3/4 ton F-250 Diesel and E-rated tires. Towed like a dream. Fast Forward to today... We downsized to a 18' trailer, and our TV downsized to a F-150 HD Echo boost, I still tow with E-rated tires. I like the way they tow. FWIW: When I set up my hitch, I like to set it for a loaded Trailer. I go to a junkyard about 10 miles away and for a case of beer, they move me to the front of any line. Funny how that happens. The junkyard weights my truck , camper ect... Doing it that way you want wonder if you have too much weight on the tongue, or too much weight in the rear. Towes like a dream if you plan ahead.
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 10:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Sofa questions

you have described a jack knife sofa. the worst possible sleeper as you have discovered. replace with magic sofa bed, bradd and hall. bumpy Jack knife sofas are too short, and uncomfortable at best. Junk it when you can. Either get a Magic Sofa or something like a Futon Couch. I have a Futon couch that I add a Twin Futon on when we have a guest. Daytime the Futon is rolled up and the Futon is pushed in to make a couch. It's actually pretty comfortable.
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 10:25pm Travel Trailers
RE: Closet/shelf suggestions

Plastic storage bins? You can buy bins in all dimensions. You can also buy expansion rods in various lengths to keep bins from sliding around.
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 10:17pm Travel Trailers
RE: My set up and TT length

Today’s 1/2 tons are better than ever and you should be fine. I personally did not like towing our 28RL (33.5’ overall length). The main issue was cross winds and big rigs passing me on the highway. The 1/2 ton (Tundra CrewMax w/ tow package) just got pushed around, rather than the Truck controlling the trailer. I also didn’t like the lack of torque in a gas engine when towing grades. Just my thoughts... BTDT. Out West, Crosswinds were terrible. I managed. Windy days on The Great Divide were interesting to scary... Otherwise towing experience makes the difference. Set up your trailer correctly and watch your driving, and you can do it with a 1/2 ton. People who aren't set up correctly are a menace to themselves and everyone on the road. High Mountains really call for more torque than some 1/2 tonners have.
OleManOleCan 08/06/19 10:11pm Travel Trailers
Stove painting

Anyone ever painted the panels on the outside of a stove? I've been redoing my 'BTDT' 1975 Fleetwood Prowler,the vintage stove has a black panel on the face of the oven. I'm thinking of painting it and the stove hood a high temp. medium dark Blue. (Haven't done one yet) Today I started degreasing both. Simple Green for first wash, and vinegar for the second. Looks like it may rain everyday for a while. I'll wait for a dry day to paint. Alabama's high humidity is tough for paint drying. I'm planning to do 3 coats of paint on each. No reason to rush the job... I don't like to camp in the dead of Summer in Alabama. I plan to replace the old Air Conditioning unit sometime this Summer too.
OleManOleCan 07/30/19 11:08pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Stuff in your storage compartment?

Merrykalia, that about covers it. Think I’ll print it out and mark off the needs and not needs. Thanks After you are finished camping for the year... Take stock of things you carry but never used... OFF THE SUBJ... When I bought my 75 Fleetwood Prowler, the owner didn't have any keys for it. I carried it home and tried the standard keys... Nothing worked. I pulled the Door Lock and had a locksmith re-key the lock for me. The hatches, I went cheap, and drilled out the locks to open them. I found an extra 30 amp cord, a beat up propane stove (sold it) and 100 foot of Parachute Cord. It was like watching storage wars. I related this, because the guy I bought my camper from used it 3 years and never accessed the hatches. After camping for years, we have become minimalist. AND... If there is a real need for something you don't have go to Walmart. There is generally one within 25 miles...
OleManOleCan 07/22/19 10:54pm Travel Trailers
RE: Is a travel trailer with a slide out a good idea for me?

MEH, slides are a person decision based on their opinion that they must have a huge cubby for everyone. Most likely you will see an overwhelming majority of responses which will echo the "need" for a slide and feel everyone NEEDS to have at least one slide. I am on the opposite side, I don't feel anyone really "needs" a slide, instead they WANT a slide. Whether it is to keep up with the "Jones's" or want some sort of impressive status symbol (who in the world needs a 38ft long trailer with "triple slides"?).. Instead on relying on a remote website forum (with faceless keyboard surfers) to make up YOUR mind as to YOUR needs and wants. I can only present my needs and wants, I don't need or want a slide and my 26ft TT can sleep 5 people easily, if you search a bit most likely could find TTs in that length or even shorter which can sleep 6 without slides. Folks who say slides are trouble free and have never had an issue with a slide have never looked for leaks and damage. A slide opening cut into a trailer severally weakens the trailer structure. Manufacturers have to make up for this by reinforcing in other places which means a trailer with a slide will be heavier when compared to a non slide of the same size. One of the critical places is the roof, the longer the slide the more potential for the roof to sag in the slide opening, most folks who say they have never had an issue with a slide most likely has never looked at the roof for sagging.. The mechanical systems are not trouble free nor are they cheap and easy to fix, slide motors do fail, cables do fail, hydraulic systems do fail.. And when they fail, it is almost NEVER in your driveway.. Had a fellow camper in a campground who spent the better part of 4 days trying to beat their slide back into working order. Made me appreciate that I have one less thing to break.. Slide mechs when they break or not adjusted correctly sometimes also drag on your floor, replacing the floor under a slide often means pulling the slide out of the opening.. Slides since they create a huge hole in the side of a trailer are a huge potential leak. A leak which can go unnoticed for a long time and when found the damage to the floor and wall structure can be extensive.. But like I mentioned, only YOU can really decide, go and look at trailers instead of seeking a website of opinions. I'm in the No Slides Camp. (I've had two with slides and two without.) We never had a problem with a slide. It's all in what you get used too... There is only my wife and I. We spend more time outside our RV than inside. I've always thought of our campers as a Motel room where no one steals from us. I changed the insides of our 75 Prowler and have ample room for the two of us. Our camping habits have changed over the years. Now a days we camp about 3 days then return to base. If I camped longer periods of time, I would have another with a slide. I love to camp in late Winter, Spring, Fall and early Winter. Alabama Winters are generally mild. Alabama Summer is hot, and steamy. Alabama Mosquitoes and biting flies are an aggravation we can do without. We no longer go on long distance camping trips, Al. to Tn. Al. to FL. are more in line with our preferences. My advice is to always buy what suits your camping style. Extended trips or more people camping beg for slides...
OleManOleCan 07/22/19 10:38pm Travel Trailers
RE: carbon Monoxide alarm going off

Chemical odors in the new rig from items like the carpet. Rig needs to get aired out good. Open vents, windows and put fan inside to circulate the air. I had that happen to me camping about 6-8 years ago. **** alarm went off at 0200 (AM) I finally stopped it by cutting off gas, and then cutting the detector out of the circuit. Next day I drove about 50 miles and got it fixed. It wasn't the Propane, It wasn't a bad detector, it was a new carpet runner that the back was impregnated with glue... Costly lesson.
OleManOleCan 07/20/19 10:54am Travel Trailers
RE: Stoped routine

Most of the time I fuel up at the same locations. I have had 36 gallon tanks on my last two trucks. I can tow from Alabama to the Smokies on one tank I can tow to Gulf Shores or PC also... I generally fuel up before I hook up, and again when I un hitch. Pit Stops... I generally park with the big rigs. I check my RV when I get out, and again before we leave. A quick walk around, checking Cargo Doors, tires, hitch, and I'm on my way.
OleManOleCan 07/20/19 10:41am Travel Trailers
RE: AUDI Q5 for towing

OK, The maximum payload is 1047lbs. And yes I would definitely us a WD hitch. Still debating on 600 or 800 lb unit. Have always used sway control even on my little Casita. Not to rain on the parade, but you don't have a quality tow vehicle. Just because a vehicle can move a RV doesn't make it a tow vehicle. Think of the combined weight of passengers, water, propane, and things like lawn chairs. Think about tongue weight. Lastly, think about this... Can your vehicle stop the RV at speeds of 50 MPH? One more thing... Are there any mountains you need to climb?
OleManOleCan 07/20/19 09:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Ford F-150 what do I need for towing?

I thinking of downsizing from a 38 ft Diesel Pusher to a smaller travel trailer. I have a driveway that is 25 feet deep. I'm thinking a TT around 23-25 feet. (I have to currently store my motor home at a lot. One reason I'm thinking of downsizing. Just me and my border collie travel 95% of the time anyway. I won't be buying a new truck, thinking of something around the 2015-2018 year models. I also don't want/need 4 wheel drive. So what should I be looking for as far as towing capacity and set up? Should I be looking at a certain size engine/ transmission, are there certain tow packages? I'm just trying to learn this stuff. Been camping for years, just has always been in a motor home. Thanks for your help. Look for a TV that has a Heavy Duty Suspension. Look for a moderately large engine. Makes towing easier. You can tow with almost any V-8, but you need a little horsepower to make it up mountains. BTDT... A number of years ago I had a small V-8 in a Chevy Silverado. It towed great on near level ground. I learned my lesson by towing a 30' camper to the Smokey Mountains. Going out of Chattanooga, Tennessee there is a section of moderate mountain grade... I was going 65 when I started up the grade. When I got to the top, I was going a little less than 20 MPH. People were blowing around me honking their horns and giving me the ole one finger salute. When I returned to Alabama I traded for a used F-250 Diesel. No more problems. Several months later we went back to the Smokies... I started up that grade at 65 and let off part way up, I was still picking up speed. I became a believer in having enough truck.
OleManOleCan 07/17/19 10:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: Power Cable Extension options ??

If you were in the US, by code, pedestals are supposed to be at the left/rear of sites and you will rarely need a longer shore power cord. Canada doesn't have those codes and pedestals can be a long distance away. I've heard of up to 100' in some Ont. CGs. We carry a spare 30 amp shore power cord with twist-lock connector on it. Also have a 30 amp generator adapter like in this photo. Allows the two cords to be connected together. Have rarely needed to do that but when you do, you really need it! Tip: Always keep your shore power cord blades clean and shiny with sandpaper or emery cloth. Never plug into a pedestal (or at home) unless the power is turned off otherwise you will cause pitting & dirt on the blade surfaces and inside the cord connectors where you can't see what condition they're in, which can lead to overheating. width=150 I have seldom needed a second cord, but I always have one set up to plug into my other 30 foot. I also carry connectors for 50 amp to 30 amp. 30 amp to 15 amp ect... I haven't camped in Canada, so I haven't encountered any long runs for power. The longest I have encountered was years ago camping on the river at the Rome, Ga. lock and dam. Some spots had no tower, so I run my cables under my RV to the next site, which was empty.
OleManOleCan 07/17/19 10:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tow Vehicle Tire Pressure

35 psi is a tipical advice for standard load P-tires. It is the reference- pressure, wich is the pressure for wich the maximum load is calculated for reference-speed of 160kmph/99mph. Carmakers advice it nowadays often and dont calculate it anymore, I think for reasons of responcibility. I once got hold of the European formula to calculate pressure, and went running with it, and now call myself pigheaded Dutch tirepressure specialist. Moast american towing vehicles have large tires with a maximum load that can carry almost the whole gross axle weight rating, so if calxulated , pressure for the P-tire would give about 26 psi. And after the Ford Firestone affaire, carmakers have become scared to advice this. But this means that you dont need to highen up this 35 psi, it already has such reserve, that you can drive a bit overloaded and faster then 99mph. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- PROBLEM... Underinflated tires lack sidewall strength. TV tires that are underinflated allow the trailer to kind of wallor in curves. ALSO... Most hitches measure height by near full inflation. Partial inflation can lower the hitch height, and change the way your TV responds. A hitch that's too low plus having a loaded truck bed is likely to sway or bounce. I don't inflate my E-Rated tires to 85 PSI, ( I could ) but I do tow at about 65 PSI. I am guilty of running at 50 PSI when I'm not towing. I figure I should not tempt fate, by inflating my tires at a low PSI. A low PSI exposes more of your sidewall to road hazards. Count me as an old guy who believes in PSI to help control your truck and your camper.
OleManOleCan 07/17/19 09:59pm Travel Trailers
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