Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'PatJ' found 27 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Ford V10 vs Pending V8

The new 7.3 is a beast on paper, no doubt. One of the reasons we expedited our purchase new in 2019, after many years of lollygagging, is because we were worried the V10 would disappear in 2020. That fear pushed us over the edge. The V10 was proven reliable in the long term, with cheap parts, cheap maintenance, and plenty of power for Class C. So we upgraded. The 6 speed trans was more recent, but it is used in rigs with much more power than the V10 and much more GVWR and GCWR than any class C I would ever purchase. I went with the proven reliable V10 and 6spd and have zero regrets. I'm sure the 7.3 has a good bit more performance, but additional performance to me wasn't worth the risk with less-proven equipment. Just my opinion and I don't know anything about anything.
PatJ 01/22/20 10:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question UPDATE Test

how is that 20 sec delay better than just waiting for the spring-loaded key to go back to "ON" from "START" ? If the house batteries are very low, it may be nice to have the engine settle back for a bit after a cold start before it's hit with that large charging load. But I don't know if it's actually any "better" or just my perception. But if for some reason the chassis were placing a heavy load on the charging system and it dropped below 13.6, the charge relay would shed the house batteries to focus on the chassis. I can see value in that scenario, even though it is unlikely.
PatJ 01/21/20 06:55pm Tech Issues
RE: THOR Motor Coach

I also found some Thor units plumbed the bathroom sink into the black tank. That would not work for us because we boondock most all of the time. Our Thor has the bathroom sink plumbed into the grey tank, however my last class C the BR sink went into the black and I actually preferred it that way. Now I intentionally add extra water to the black via the toilet. We also boondook most all the time. I prefer to dump with full tanks. In the old rig I would just turn the BR sink on and let it run to fill the black tank full before dumping. Now I have to stand there on the toilet pedal :) So it is all personal preference.
PatJ 01/21/20 06:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question UPDATE Test

On my 2019 Ford C the charge isolator relay is under the coolant overflow bottle. It has a delay built in so the engine has to be running for about 20 seconds before it ties the chassis battery and house bank together. The manual explains it needs to see charging voltage >13.6V on the engine side which starts the 20s timer. Any time voltage on the engine side drops below 13.6 it will untie the batteries and wait for 13.6 again to restart the timer. You can hear this click from the driver's seat after starting the engine. Emergency start switch bypasses this delay.
PatJ 01/20/20 06:31pm Tech Issues
RE: THOR Motor Coach

I have been RV'ing since 1996. I have over 100k camping miles and WELL over 1200 camping nights in RVs. This past spring I purchased my third RV (this time new,) a 2019 Freedom Elite 23H which is the same as Four Winds 23U. The floor plan I chose is very common and offered my basically every class c manufacturer. The difference with Thor in this floor plan was they had so much more storage. Basically a full basement. That's what steered us to Thor over the other brands that had basically the same floor plan for basically the same price. I knew what I wanted as far as floor plan and this was it. Quality-wise I've had zero issues. I don't know why Thor is considered low quality online, I have nothing but positive comments about my rig. I have experience with other 2019 rigs including brands considered premium to Thor and my Thor is top quality in my experience. I can elaborate if you are interested. I love my Thor C. I will even go a step further and say my experience purchasing at Camping World was great. CW also has a terrible online reputation and that is just not my experience at all. I have nothing but good to say. Good luck in whatever you decide.
PatJ 01/19/20 09:14pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

Ben says to tow in 3 instead of D for the same reason you towed in 3 with your old rig, because the GMT400 manual tells you to. For the GMT800 it says tow in D with tow mode on. Even though it is the same transmission, the software has changed significantly between the GMT400 Vortec and GMT800 LS era. The LS powertrain computer is something like 100,000 times more powerful than the GMT400 computer was. Both owner's manuals are absolutely correct the trucks are just slightly different. Just do what the manual says and you should be OK. Hopefully you had a breakthrough here, but unfortunately I think the 80 still locks up in third when in 3 (direct.) I hope I'm wrong and your right.
PatJ 01/10/20 10:56pm Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

I wouldn't pay to pull the tank on radiator to inspect unless it was something unique/hard to find/rare/expensive. Like you said it will probably cost more than just replacing. Just my opinion. There is probably someone smarter than me that has a way to figure what kind of exchanger is in the radiator tank without disassembling it. A small mirror in a radiator hose connection? Borescope? Drain the trans loop in the radiator and titrate fluid in to measure volume? Not sure. Hopefully there is some type of tag or identifying label somewhere on the new radiator you can google and get some info. If it comes back as being a low end radiator than I would suspect it possibly at least contributing to your problem. The fact your engine coolant is 190ish reinforces the fact your cooling is otherwise OK. GMT800 3/4T Chevy's with a tow package have an insane amount of cooling capacity compared to older trucks. A lot has to go wrong to have an issue. If you are somehow able to verify the radiator may be part of the issue, you have a two possible solutions. 1) Replace the radiator with OEM. 2) Significantly upgrade the trans cooler and route it first, before the small trans loop. If it were me I would replace the rad. On RockAuto.com the cheapest radiator for your truck is $67, the most expensive (AC Delco) is $178. You have a very common platform and therefore quality parts are inexpensive, take advantage of that. For the Delco part look at the RPO codes to make sure it is the correct one. I'm not a rich guy but for $178 I would do it to rule it out. Even if you go to the dealer and it is $500, that's less than one payment on any 3/4 ton anything these days. Keep in mind Chevy spent a gazillion dollars designing your truck so a ditsy soccer mom could hook up her 10k pound horse trailer and pull it wherever without caring at all about shift points or coasting or lockup or anything. Again all just my opinion
PatJ 01/10/20 10:47pm Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

I have owned and still own a few GMT400 and GMT800 trucks both 1/2 and 3/4. Your trans should not be getting as hot as it is with the weights you are talking about and 4.10. These are my guesses as to your issue, numbered from most to least likely in my opinion: 1. Your driving style kept RPM lower than designed and therefore your converter was unlocked and you were out of torque curve. Up hills with that load and 4.10 at low highway speeds you should be locked up in at the top of 3rd. The LS will rev more than your previous Vortec did, and transmission programming has changed to reflect that. The tow/haul mode does more than just trans shift points so be sure to use it. 2. At some point the radiator was replaced with a cheap aftermarket which notoriously have a very short straight piece of restrictive copper tubing in the tank as the "trans cooler" versus the large heat exchanger section that was in the tank of the OEM radiator. If this is the case then you are basically asking the external trans cooler to do all the work and it is fairly small. There are photo comparisons online of cut-open Autozone-class replacement radiators vs. OEM class and the biggest difference is usually the ATF cooler loop inside one end. Chevy designed for significant trans cooling to happen in the radiator (more than 50%.) 3. The trans is tired or has internal issues and needs rebuilt/replaced. Luckily this is a common transmission fairly inexpensive to rebuild/replace and the GMT800 trucks are worth it, especially the 3/4T. Just my opinion/guess
PatJ 01/09/20 08:09pm Towing
RE: weight of MH

My 24 foot 1984 Lindy on Chevy chassis full of water and loaded up for a trip was just about exactly 10k. Probably had 1k pounds of water and stuff. My 2019 23 foot Thor is about 11,600 full of water and loaded for a trip including 3 people. My guess is you will be under 10k with that rig, and probably under 9k if its empty. You can still get 16.5 tires they are just a little harder to find because there a little less common. Firestone Transforce comes to mind as a reputable brand-name tire that still comes in 16.5 that is available from most any tire shop (if even by special order.) Price is not much more than equivalent 16".
PatJ 12/29/19 09:11am Tech Issues
RE: 25' 30 amp extension cord

The unfortunate thing is you can't easily tell the quality of something by looking anymore, even by price. Also brand names have much less meaning these days as almost all are licensed to Chinese manufacturers. Brand X part number Y could be manufactured by one plant on one day of decent quality, and the next lot comes from a different manufacturer and is complete ****. There are examples of this everywhere. There is also documented evidence of Amazon and Wal-Mart etc positive and negative reviews being bought and sold by overseas mass-review-writing firms. The "UL listed" hologram tag is easily counterfeited and there is documented evidence that counterfeit "UL Listed" items are sold by nationally known retailers every day. So everything is a crapshoot. Most users of this site, myself included, would pay more for a quality piece. The problem is, where do you get a quality piece? (True for almost every consumer good these days.) The $50 cord could very easily be just as good the $100 one, or even better. In my opinion the options are 1) Buy bulk good quality #10 SOOW-A (or similar SO cord) and brand name connectors from a local electrical supply house where you can be sure you are not getting counterfeit and spend $100-150 building a cord that is flexible in all temps and you can pass on to your grand kids or 2) as was already said buy the cheap one and enjoy it, repair/replace as needed.
PatJ 12/24/19 09:00pm General RVing Issues
RE: Buying 2019 RAM 3500 DRW - discount expectations?

We used the ABC method...Contact 3 dealers that have the truck you want to make sure it is still available. Then email them all on the same email. Let them know you are going to buy but only from the best deal. All three should return with their offer. One will be the lowest... Has anyone ever seriously had this work for them? I tried this strategy ~15 years ago with an economy car (Ford Focus) I was paying cash for. Several people I know since have tried this with various cars, trucks, SUV, RV, farm equipment, etc. I have literally never heard a single time where this has worked. I never got a single reply from any of the dealers I contacted using this method. If it works for someone that's awesome I'd love to hear the story.
PatJ 12/07/19 10:00pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Yellowstone 2020

Thank you all very much for the excellent suggestions so far, and please keep them coming if you have anything else to add. We booked early understanding the altitude and possibility of winter weather, but hoping that with most kids still in school there would be less traffic (Disneyland logic.) If we're lucky our gamble will pay off. The suggestions of bikes, rental cars, and tour buses are all things I had not thought of and will research further. Thank you for those suggestions. We are definitely early risers and our plan was to generally start early and hit one major desirable attraction first-thing per day (again Disneyland logic.) Thank you for your confirmation that our plan may actually work. 4runnerguy, I would love to bring our older daughter with us on this trip and agree with you 100%. Unfortunately this is a busy time of year for our college sophomore. I hope one day she has the opportunity to first experience YS the way I did, when I was young on a summer break from school with friends. suprz, please thank your son/daughter for their service to our nation from the Jones family. Again thank you all for the tips and please keep them coming
PatJ 12/02/19 10:58pm Roads and Routes
Yellowstone 2020

Good evening ladies and gentlemen, I have a family trip planned to Yellowstone in spring 2020, and would like any tips or advice from those that have recent experience in the park. About 25 years ago, I visited Yellowstone as a care-free ~20 year old. I drove my old pickup and camper from WA state with a 650 Yamaha strapped to the back. We stayed at the West Yellowstone KOA (coasted in on a summer weekend and easily got an available spot walk-in with no reservations.) We rode the bike and drove the camper around the park for a week or two (don't really remember.) There was never any issue finding a spot to camp, finding a parking spot, traffic, etc. This was August. That is my only experience with the park. Memorial Day weekend 2020, my wife and I have a spot reserved at the same West Yellowstone KOA for a week. We will be bringing our 2019 "23 foot" (24'10" actual bumper-to-bumper) class C. We are also bringing our 8 year old daughter (the 18 year old is too cool to camp with mom and dad anymore.) We are experienced campers/travelers. From my reading it seems a lot has changed in 25 years. Based on searches and trip reports it seems it is much much busier. We do not have a toad so we will be driving our class c into the park for daily excursions. We are fine with long days driving with many stops, but based on my reading we may have issues even simply finding a place to pull off with an RV for an hour to eat. Of course we would love to show our daughter Old Faithful, the paint pots, etc. But we will need a place to park... I am seeking any tips/input from those more experienced with sight-seeing in the park in recent years. My biggest concerns now are traveling in the motorhome. Is there still room to pull off occasionally? Is there space to park at the major attractions in a (slightly) oversize vehicle? I welcome any tips tricks advice or thoughts. Thank you in advance.
PatJ 12/01/19 11:07pm Roads and Routes
RE: ? Becoming a KOA Work Kamper for $

I have a $100,000 check sitting here with your name on it. If you will just pay me the transfer fee of $100, I will release it to you. Guaranteed!
PatJ 11/20/19 06:46pm General RVing Issues
RE: Reliable truck+lightweight TT RVing Setup

you need to forget about "best gas mileage". all gassers towing a Travel Trailer, will get between 8-10mpg towing. Doesn't matter size or weight, it's the trailer's frontal area that affects fuel mileage. My personal experience agrees with this. Simplest and/or most reliable/cheapest to own/maintain would probably be an F150 with the 5.0 or a Chevy 1500 with the 5.3 or 6.0 from the last 15 years of so. Equivalent Expedition or Tahoe/Yukon SUV would be the same. I admit I have minimal familiarity with the Ford trucks but I am very familiar with the Chevys and I am assuming the Fords are similar/competitive. For Chevy (and I assume Ford) look for one with the factory towing package, which (for Chevy at least) can be easily spotted by the 7-pin plug on the bumper, 2" receiver, and the trans cooler. You can add these things to a vehicle without the towing package but you are a step ahead if you have it to start. Also for Chevy you can tell the axle gear ratio by looking at the sticker in the glove box with the "RPO code." "GT4" is the code for 3.73 axle ratio for example, which would be desirable for towing a trailer like you are describing. Not sure if Ford has a similar system, I'm sure they do. You can find all the RPO codes with a google search.
PatJ 10/22/19 09:45pm Beginning RVing
RE: What air compressor do you carry?

I carry a micro sized Senco 120V 1 gal. It is the smallest brand-name compressor I could find size-wise that was real 120V and could fill a truck tire. It seems to be good quality and is very quiet, I think it was made in Mexico. I have on-board Gen so I wanted 120V. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Senco-1-Gal-1-2-HP-Portable-Pancake-Electric-Air-Compressor-PC1010N/205513089 I have the harbor freight clone of the viair in my flatbed trailer tool box which we bring along on longer ATV rides. Not identical to the one linked below but very close (mine is about 15 yrs old.) https://www.harborfreight.com/12volt-150-psi-compact-air-compressor-63184.html Both have served very well and I would buy either of them again.
PatJ 10/21/19 06:39pm General RVing Issues
RE: Move to Motorhome

We have a 2019 Freedom Elite 23H which is a Camping World specific model, but basically identical to the Thor 23U, for reference. Actual measurement bumper-to-bumper is 24'10". Corner queen (very common floor plan.) I am a Chevy guy through-and-through. Since birth. My current rig is my third RV since 1999, the other two were Chevy chassis. I love Chevy, I love the LS V-8, my daily driver is a Chevy with the LS, we have several in the family. Nothing against Chevy. My "new" RV is n the Ford chassis, and its no joke. We bought it new this spring so only about 5k miles of experience, but in that short time owning this rig I have a new respect for Ford. We've been all over WA, OR, ID, UT, NV this year from sea level to 8k, and the Ford V10 is a beast in a rig my size (small.) What I'm getting to is don't discount Ford's due to brand loyalty. I'm as Chevy as they come. But the Fords are super popular for a reason. We love our smaller Class C and wouldn't change a thing about it. We are only in 5k miles, but are averaging mid to high 9mpg (we have the 6 speed) and we are not easy with it(we did 70-75 through Utah and Nevada.)
PatJ 10/13/19 08:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class A electrical system setup - no dealer guidance

In my rig, my inverter runs one circuit (a few specific outlets and the TV/blue ray.) One thing I learned the hard way (similar to how you learned it) is that also on that circuit is the fridge 120v outlet outside in the refer compartment. So if I run the inverter while the fridge is in auto, it will silently switch to AC mode which sucks my pair of batteries low enough to sound the inverter alarm before the movie your watching is over. Might be your issue, worth checking. I now force the fridge to stay in gas anytime we are without hookups so I don't make this mistake again. Would be worth checking the water heater too. Things that take a lot of power but you may not notice are running.
PatJ 10/12/19 01:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Hankook Dynapro Tires for 2019 Coachman Leprechaun

I've had no issues with the Hankook in the initial 5000 miles on my 2019 class C. The tires that came with my camper were made in South Korea but were extremely fresh, manufactured within a couple weeks of the chassis. For some insane reason new class C do not come with a spare tire. I purchased a new spare wheel from Ford and purchased the exact same model/size Hankook for a spare. The spare I purchased looked identical to the others but was made in USA.
PatJ 10/12/19 06:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Wave 6 heater

For many many years I had the older version of the Olympian heater that is the exact same as the Wave 6. I think it was model 600. At this time they were made by US Catalytic, way before they were part of Camco and before they had an optional low-oxygen cutout feature. It was in a 10.5' 1967 Travel Queen camper. I paid about $550 of early 1990's money for it, made in the USA with a fitted cover. A small fraction of what they go for now so I don't know if there is a quality difference now that they are Camco and made who-knows-where. I had a window in the back door of the camper I would open about 2 inches, and I would crack the cabover vent about an inch or so. I never camped in extremely cold weather but at least to the low 30's (frosty) that heater easily kept it very warm in the camper with 1967 insulation and single-pane aluminum windows. You couldn't turn it below "low" so I would just open the window/vent further to throttle the temp down when it got too warm. I ran this setup for almost 20 years. Unless the output power is many orders of magnitude worse than they used to be, I think there is something wrong with your heater. From what I remember of mine, it would pump out heat like sitting next to a campfire.
PatJ 10/07/19 09:25pm General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.