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RE: Tire Recommendations

My 2019 class C came with the exact Hankook tires you mentioned. We are up to about 15k miles and don't have anything negative to say about them, If I had to replace them today and they were competitively priced I would probably buy them again. We camp a lot and will still probably age them out before 45k. Something I want to share: I also wanted to add a spare as my C did not come with one, so I purchased an OEM Ford wheel as specified by Ford for my chassis by VIN (~$380,) which appeared identical to the factory installed wheels, and a Hankook tire identical to the OEM installed tires ($170.) The factory installed tires are made in Korea and the spare I purchased was made in USA but were otherwise identical. I purchased a steel valve stem from Napa and had it mounted and balanced at the local tire shop. My rig has an interior spare tire storage bin so I tossed it in and didn't give it another thought. At the end of year 1 (spring 2020) I decided to rotate tires and put the spare on the rear. My FORD brand spare wheel with the identical part number to the chassis-cab wheels installed by factory RUBBED ON THE REAR BRAKES. It would NOT drive with the spare installed on the inner dual. I have to run the "spare" on the outer dual (I did not try it on the front, but the front brakes are even bigger than the rear.) So now I have one of the factory installed tires in the spare box and am running the "spare" I purchased on an outer dual. Reading online, I am not the first one with this problem. The FORD replacement wheels you purchase from FORD parts are different than the ones installed at the factory despite the identical part #. My advice: If you choose to build a spare tire/wheel I recommend you either try it first or just go ahead and mount it on an outer dual position so a factory-installed wheel is your spare (assuming it will work anywhere.)
PatJ 04/22/21 09:39pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

We have a 2019 23H "Freedom Elite" which is Camping World's version of the Thor 23U, which we purchased new in 4/2019. We have many miles on gravel roads and very well maintained dirt roads with no issues. I do not think this unit would do well at all on soft dirt/sand roads, mud, or even slightly off-camber. I see an issue with overhang and clearance, even though this is a relatively short rig with a proportional wheelbase it is still relatively low compared to a (CC/LB) pickup. Tail dragging being the biggest weakness IMO. I don't see how brand could affect its handling or capability assuming length and wheelbase being equal (minus an optional locking differential or something, which as far as I'm aware no class C manufacturer offers.) My Ford chassis has F and R sway bars standard. This is my third RV and by far the tightest so dust hasn't been a major issue for me so far. But pnichols' thoughts on dust mitigation are definitely worth considering and we will for sure be trying that in the future.
PatJ 04/12/21 10:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1987 Winnerbago LeSharo

We had a LeSharo in our family - brand new around this time (1987ish.) I was middle-school age, and I clearly remember my aunt and uncle picking this up new and how much they loved it (at first.) Their LeSharo had the Renault diesel engine with FWD and manual trans. (I purchased my first RV in 1996 so I was a bit behind them :) The box portion of their unit was fantastic. Very well thought out by Winnebago who clearly had a lot of experience in this area. The expanding bathroom was a very good idea. The floor plan was very efficient. The appliances and fittings are all mid 80s RV standard; thoroughly de-bugged with no major glaring issues beyond any other RV from this era. The LeSharo issues I'm aware of were all due to the chassis, and the issues were MANY. Anyone looking at a LeSharo should do some research in this area. I know there are now options to swap out the horrifying Renault drivetrain with something less apocalyptic. If you could put a reliable drivetrain up front, and replace the rear bearings with parts made from something other than warm chocolate and wax; you would have a fantastic RV.
PatJ 04/04/21 10:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is a toad necessary with a small motor home?

We have a 2019 "23'" no-slide class C which measures 24'10" bumper to bumper. We are just weekenders and still work full-time, but we did 39 nights last year and over 10k mi. We have been over Snoqualmie pass twice TODAY for a doc appt in Everett (we live in eastern WA.) So we went through some big cities and ~700 mi within last 24 hrs. I'm gonna say no toad for us, we can explore any town or big city basically the same as if we were driving a Surburban or similar. This is our third RV and all were similar sized, we stick with this size range because it works well for us. But as was said, everyone travels very different.
PatJ 03/12/21 09:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: ..Looking for a new air compressor for the MH tires etc..

I run the tiny Senco from Home Depot, it was the smallest 120v I could find at the time. I don't use it an awful lot but it has aired up several tires to 80psi for me over the past few years so I can't complain. It is quiet. Model PC1010N
PatJ 02/15/21 09:35pm Tech Issues
RE: 6 liter V8 Chevy Vortec question

I've had two Chevy RVs with 1G small blocks (admittedly not the 6.0 or LS.) Currently on my third RV which is a 2019 V10 class C with the 6 speed and 4.56. At work daily I run a 2017 6.0 Chevy pickup with the 6 speed at 12,000 lbs. In my opinion, apples to apples weight and having extensive experience with both, the V10 beats the 6.0 at 12k, but not by much. Neither is going to smoke the other, but the V10 will take 12k down the highway quicker and quieter than the 6.0, with less fuel used and less down shifting/hunting. Slightly better, but not by much. I am a die hard Chevy guy, my wife and I each DD LS Tahoes, and our pickup is a Chevy. The 5.3 and 6.0 win all day long as daily drivers hands down, but the Ford V10 is the better Class C motorhome engine in my humble opinion (since you asked.)
PatJ 02/15/21 09:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire Valve Stems and Monitoring Class C

I have 2" steel stems on my rear tires which allow me to use a straight dually Milton gauge and similar inflation chuck (from Napa) which I carry with me. I would use an actual quality American made gauge before each trip no matter what type of monitoring system I had. Just my opinion.
PatJ 02/15/21 08:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Spare on Class C

We purchased a class C brand new in 2019 and it did not include a spare. Like many here I would lean towards roadside assistance if I ever needed to replace on the road, but I travel many places with no cell service so I need to be independently prepared. Immediately after buying the new rig I purchased a new Ford wheel and an exact match Hankook tire which I had mounted up. My C has an enclosed spare tire compartment so I threw the new mounted spare in there and paid it no mind. I moved the jack and breaker bar from the old rig to new. End of first year as an experiment I tried to mount the spare using tools I haul with me, just to make sure I could do it. I tried worse-case-scenario - an inner dual failure on the driver's side. I was able to install the spare fairly easily with no issues. BUT I learned was that even though I ordered a Ford wheel supposedly identical to the OEM wheels installed on my rig, the new wheel does NOT clear the rear brakes on the inner dual. It rubs and makes noise when mounted (SO CLOSE.) I did not try on the front. So what I did was put the "spare" I purchased after buying the rig on the outer dual and put a factory wheel as the spare. Now I know the "spare" will work in any position. I would have not known of the brake clearance issue had I not tried to replace in the driveway. So that was very much worth my time. I encourage everyone that carries a spare try to install it in their driveway using only tools they carry with them, if they intend to be able to install it themselves. It made me feel much better trying it myself and it was not any more difficult than any regular tire replacement as long as you have a long breaker bar and the correct 6pt socket. Just the fact it made me feel more confident made it worth it, and what I learned about the brake clearance was definitely best learned in your own driveway.
PatJ 01/27/21 10:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV Magazine

Agree, junk mail trash now. They may still send it to me for free after I cancel, but even for free its not worth reading and will go straight from the mailbox to the round file. So many good magazines from years ago have completely gone to ****. Get on Google books and look at a Popular Mechanics from 40ish years ago. So sad those days are gone.
PatJ 01/23/21 06:40pm Beginning RVing
RE: Adding Heat Strips

I added a heat strip to my 2019 Coleman roof AC and in my opinion it was totally worth it. Was a very simple plug and play install, the wiring was all there already from the factory. If you have a newer rig you don't need to mess with wiring or breakers or any of that, it is a simple plug-and-play to existing wiring/plugs with stupid-simple instructions and will work with your existing thermostat. It does not blow out "hot" air to the touch, but if it runs for a short while your rig will be warmer. If we have hookups, we use it as our only source of heat down to roughly 40f OSA and it easily maintains that temp. In my opinion it is superior to portable electric heaters (which we carry in case of emergencies) because it is the same heat power yet it works with the existing hard-mount thermostats. Also, we often ran our roof air fan at night for background noise anyway, so adding heat was a no brainer. Just my experience. It works great for us.
PatJ 01/21/21 08:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda 2000i tips and tricks for changing oil.

Have a pair of EU2000 since 2005 with a bazillion hours and oil changes once annually each fall. I put the gens on 2x4 blocks on edge (which I have laying around) and tilt to drain into a dollar-store cat litterbox (basically a roughly 9x12x3" plastic container.) The EU2000 already has the little trough to direct the drainage. No extra parts purchased. I use a tiny (cheap) funnel to refill, I think it was from WalMart or similar. I tilt it to the non-fill side and grossly overfill, then tilt level and drain the excess in to the litterbox via the built-in trough. There is very little waste overall but it works well for me. I am over 1k hours for both EU2000 gens and they run like new. You're overthinking it.
PatJ 01/21/21 08:25pm Beginning RVing
RE: Best tire inflator for dually tires

I used the Milton inflator tool on the right for a couple of years until it started leaking air. I have the same ~10" straight dually Milton tool I've used for my last two class C's (17 years-ish.) It has and does work great. I had to replace valve stems with longer units to be able to check pressure and add air with the cheap simulators in place on the rear, but it was worth it for about $20/wheel, one time expense. Extensions would probably work too.
PatJ 01/18/21 06:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Changing Spare Tire

Seems the best advice is to have a spare and the tools required to change a spare and decide whether to do it by yourself based on the situation. I agree with this 100%. If I get a flat in the real world, I am going to drive slowly to somewhere safe if at all possible (even if I ruin a rim.) I would then call roadside assist and let them place my mounted spare. But I go too many places with no cell phone service, so I carry a ~$40 HF bottle jack, 4x cheap HF rubber chocks, a 30" HF breaker bar, extension, and socket; and a Autozone 4-way. This past summer I picked up a nail for a slow leak in the driver's side inner dual. At the end of season I swapped with my spare in my driveway before taking the leaker to the tire shop for repair. I also practiced pulling/swapping the front. I feel more confident having installed the spare in both front and rear position using tools I carry, a worst-case-scenario tire situation. It was not physically difficult in the driveway, but would be very stressful to do on the side of the highway.
PatJ 01/02/21 06:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Reliability of older Class C’s?

I'll comment as someone with 120k+ miles experience with "older RVs." Search my posts for more info to validate. I LOVE older RVs. 1st - I'm jealous of your trip and wish I had the guts to do it when I was your age. IMO you will never regret it regardless of any mechanical issues you may have along the way. Don't forget that. 2nd - IMO The most likely thing to leave you stranded is tires. Other rotating things may fail (alternator, tensioner, idler, etc) but they are less likely to fail catastrophically without warning and leave you stranded. So in my opinion I would focus on tires. Other rotating thing will most likely give you some warning (noise, slop, etc) as they fail. Listen for that whenever possible. Make sure you have a good spare with you as well as the jack/lug wrench/compressor required to replace if needed in the middle of nowhere. If you have 16.5 tires make sure you understand they are rare these days and most tire shops will not stock spares. 3rd - I've been doing this for a while and I wouldn't hesitate to take a well-maintained older class C across country, any day of the week. Good luck!
PatJ 11/25/20 09:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear gear ratio

I'm on my third RV which is a 2019 Ford C with 4.56 and a 6 speed with double overdrive, so NA. My previous RV was a SB Chevy with 4.56 axle and a Chevy TH400 (the GM version of a C6.) It was exactly as you describe. It did really well at 55 MPH (even with light towing,) but dropped off hard above or below that speed. When I had that rig I fantasized about re-gearing or adding an OD trans, but in reality I probably didn't have the power to support it (stock SB Chevy roughly 175 HP.) My first RV was also a small block Chevy but 3.73 axle. IMO this was the ideal ratio for a non-lockup 3 speed trans with 3rd direct. This was my shortest and lightest RV of the three, but also was the oldest (1975) had the least HP of the three. But still it did very well on the highway 60-65 MPH and was a joy to drive even by modern standards. If you re-gear keep stock size tires and a direct-3rd trans I would shoot for 3.73ish. That's with me assuming Ford and Chevy from the same vintage are roughly equivalent. Just my opinion
PatJ 11/09/20 07:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV sitting for two to three weeks in 10 degree weather

I respectfully disagree about blowing out the lines being insufficient for 10 degree weather; if done properly, it's every bit as safe as pumping antifreeze, as air doesn't freeze and expand. My neighbor, who has lived across the street from me for many years, and whose RV has experienced the exact same conditions as my RV for many years, would agree with Drew 100%. My neighbors success with blowing out is 100%. His toy hauler is much larger, "fancier," and more complex than my class C, and he has more plumbing fixtures. And we get very cold here, -20f nights with 0f days is not unheard of. But my neighbor still buys two gallons of pink antifreeze to pour in all his traps. I winterize my entire rig with the same amount, so zero additional cost for me to be 100% certain. Two gallons of the pink and after pumping through the system, it flows in to the traps to protect them as well. It is all personal preference. But if you flow pink through everything you can't go wrong IMO.
PatJ 11/04/20 10:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV sitting for two to three weeks in 10 degree weather

I agree with those that say do a full winterize with pink antifreeze through each fixture, hot and cold and in the traps. "Blowing Out" has its place, I do it after each spring trip for those nights where the temps dip down to ~30f overnight low (and maybe 55 daytime.) You are talking about 10f and I assume possibly not warming above freezing during the day. Unless you are planning to leave the heat on, blowing out alone won't help you, you need a full winterize with the pink stuff in my opinion. You shouldn't need to pour it in the fresh tank if you have a place to hook up to winterize. Make sure to bypass your water heater. I can do my whole rig with 2 gallons. Don't forget the outside shower and low point drains.
PatJ 10/29/20 10:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C Chassis

I am life-long Chevy guy. My family currently has 4 vehicles, three Chevy with V8 and the RV with Ford V10. My wife and I have owned three RVs since 1996, the first two were Chevy based and our current is a 2019 Thor 23' Class C on Ford chassis we bought new in April 2019. So I am not exclusively brand-loyal but I definitely lean Chevy. That being said, our Ford V-10 based class C has been fantastic in every way. I am happy to go on and on about how much we love this rig or answer any specific comparison questions if you like. But for now I would like my #1 takeaway for you to be: please do not focus on brand for the sake of brand. I know Ford went through a pretty major revision in 2016, so the 2016+ rigs are vastly different than the 2016- rigs. Not sure when (if) Chevy did a similar update in their van chassis, but be sure to compare apples to apples. A 2017 E350 would be vastly different than a 2015 E350, for example. Have fun in your search!
PatJ 10/29/20 10:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thinking about buying a class c

I am going to disagree with coolmom a little bit and lay out the decision process in my opinion: #1 floor plan. This is one thing you cannot change after purchase. Basically all RV manufacturers are making the same floor plans with subtle differences, so pick floor plan first regardless of brand. Corner bed/walk around bed, slides/no slides, cabover/no cabover, basement, etc. #2 chassis. Now that you have chosen your floor plan, you pick chassis brand and wheelbase. Its important here to throw any brand loyalty you may have out the window and focus on your specific needs in this specific situation. I am a hardcore lifetime Chevy guy, but have a Ford based class C I bought brand new in 2019, my third RV (after two Chevy based rigs over 25 years.) I am not endorsing Ford over Chevy here (even though it works fantastic for us) just using it as an example to show its important to disregard any chassis brand loyalty here and focus on the facts to find the best fit for your specific situation at this moment. #3 Model - once you have your floor plan and chassis brand you should shop model. Since every manufacturer has the same floor plans, and you are past that now, you are now looking at details. Interior layout, cabinets vs drawers, carpet vs vinyl, LED vs incandescent, tank sizes, porcelain vs plastic toilet, etc. Always remember that there are a zillion RV manufacturers making a zillion RV models, someone somewhere is making the exact RV you are looking for. Don't rush or sign anything and with patience you and your perfect RV will meet soon.
PatJ 09/27/20 09:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Vintage RV upgrades

Congrats on the 150 miles and hope you have many more to go! Does the fridge's pilot flame run all the time, but the fridge does not cool? Do you see any sign of yellow-ish powder residue in the area of the fridge coils under the outside fridge access door? A friend of mine once had a fridge die in a small 1977 trailer, that's the only one I'm aware of personally that had an ammonia fridge die of my many friends with older rigs. That friend had a good flame, but no cooling (after 24 hrs) and yellow flaky/powered residue under the tubes in the outside compartment. I hope you don't have that issue, because the fix is a new fridge. Good luck. As for the exhaust leak, I don't know anything about Dodge, but for Chevy an exhaust leak between the manifold and the down pipe was very very common. So common that as a hobby owner of multiple 73-87 pickups I've actually memorized the Fel-Pro part numbers for the "doughnut" to fix it 60985 or 8194. I think that part number is good for something like 1930-1990. It is so common that they make common kits to address the issue and it is a common wear item. I assume Dodge is the same as this common Chevy issue (but I don't know the Dodge part numbers.) For Chevy you would also visit the "help" section of the store and pick up a set of exhaust studs and brass nuts for $5 to complete the job. Again, I don't know about dodge but assume it's similar. I love older rigs and smile when I hear of people putting the effort in to keep the on the road. I wish you luck and let me know if there is anything I can do to be helpful. Good luck.
PatJ 09/14/20 11:01pm Class C Motorhomes
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