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 > Your search for posts made by 'RLS7201' found 138 matches.

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RE: Storage of Fresh Water - How Long

So much paranoia about FRESH water. I drain and winterize at the end of the season. In 22 years of owning our coach, I have never put anything in the FRESH water tank but water........ The wife, cat and I have never been sick from the water in out coach. I also don't put any chemicals in the waste tanks. There are no leaks, so there is no smell in the coach. Richard This isn't about sanitizing the tank. It's simply about draining the tank between trips. It's preference. I personally drink from my tank. To me bottled water, which is sealed, retains a "freshness" that water sitting in an RV tank doesn't. So, if it sits a long time (more than a months or so, I'd rather drain and fill right before a trip. If you don't drink from the tank, or don't taste a difference between water fresh from the tap and water that's been sitting in a container for a while, then don't drain. Oops, looks like I struck a left nerve. Grooooooooooooooon. Richard
RLS7201 09/15/22 04:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Storage of Fresh Water - How Long

So much paranoia about FRESH water. I drain and winterize at the end of the season. In 22 years of owning our coach, I have never put anything in the FRESH water tank but water........ The wife, cat and I have never been sick from the water in out coach. I also don't put any chemicals in the waste tanks. There are no leaks, so there is no smell in the coach. Richard
RLS7201 09/14/22 03:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Changing oil.

Considering purchasing a Class A. Where do you get oil changes and other services when traveling? Especially if there is no RV dealers near by. You also want to get a lube job with that oil change. Make sure you know how many zerks your chassis has (13?) and tell the guy/gal doing the job how many. Also, your differential uses 75W140 synthetic lube (Ford chassis). Richard
RLS7201 09/09/22 02:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Stops Catalytic Converter thefts! (inexpensive method)

My RV sits on it's own full service pad right next to the house. My CCW qualifying target is posted in plain site, for those that want to own some of my property. It also stopped the neighbor kids from taking a short cut across my yard. MO. law allows me to protect my property as I would protect my life. Afew years ago my neighbor got robbed at a ATM. As the crook with drew, my neighbor emptied his CCW clip in the bad guy. The county court said good job and closed the case. Now we don't have to spend thousands of dollars a year to house and feed the crook. Richard I support your right to protect your property. You may not feel the need to add the ~$100 worth of protection that I have, but let me ask you a question... Would you prefer.... a) A thief spending 1-2 minutes under your RV stealing your CC with their sawsall and the amount of noise that would make, or b) A thief needing 3-8 minutes of time underneath your RV trying to steal your CC, and having a 115db alarm blasting to alert you of their presence? Hope nothing ever gets stolen from you! Chris None of the above..I prefer a thief 6 foot under. That way we don't have to pay for his trial of pay to house him. If all the theifs were out of service, none of us would have to spend our $$ trying to protect ourselves from them. Richard PS: My MH was manufactured without a CC.
RLS7201 09/07/22 07:24pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Stops Catalytic Converter thefts! (inexpensive method)

My RV sits on it's own full service pad right next to the house. My CCW qualifying target is posted in plain site, for those that want to own some of my property. It also stopped the neighbor kids from taking a short cut across my yard. MO. law allows me to protect my property as I would protect my life. Afew years ago my neighbor got robbed at a ATM. As the crook with drew, my neighbor emptied his CCW clip in the bad guy. The county court said good job and closed the case. Now we don't have to spend thousands of dollars a year to house and feed the crook. Richard
RLS7201 09/07/22 04:14pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Towing an EV

I'm curious as to why an EV, such as a Tesla or other EVs can't be towed 4 down. I can't imagine that electrical issues couldn't be defeated. Of course there would be the base plate issue but that's another discussion. Richard
RLS7201 08/30/22 04:36pm Dinghy Towing
RE: TV connection from front TV to bedroom class A

Another option is a Dish VIP211K receiver. Yes, it's old school but it has HDMI, RCA and coax outputs. It also has USB for an external hard drive. The coax output is SD. The other 2 are HD. It works for us. It does run a little warm, so I have a small, quiet, low output USB fan sitting on top of it to move a little air. Richard The VIP211K while is still able to be used for DISH, it isn't all that good of an option and finding good working units now days might be a shot in the dark at best. What you said about "the other 2" being HD, that is misleading. HDMI is the ONLY FULL HD output. The RCA outputs are "composite" ANALOG SD 480i NTSC (yellow jack) The other is Analog COMPONENT video which uses three RCA video connections marked Y, Pg, Pr.. Component video output is LIMITED to a resolution of 720p "HD". While 720p is an slight improvement over the SD 480i outputs, it isn't as good of "HD" as the HDMI output which is 1080i or 1080p.. Both analog composite and analog component inputs on most newer TVs have been removed, TV manufacturers are no longer including any legacy analog inputs, only HDMI inputs. So the reality is, if you wanted to use the component (Y, Pg, Pr) output you would need convert that to HDMI anyways adding another conversion box to the setup. Basically the setup would be component (Y, Pg, Pr) to HDMI converter, then HDMI to coax, then Coax to HDMI to the TV.. and you would be limited to 720p.. So what, you say.. Well you can get full HD (1080i and 1080p) to the back TV by using a HDMI SPLITTER in the signal chain. Basically HDMI in to the splitter, one HDMI out goes to front TV, second HDMI out goes to HDMI to coax converter, then coax converter to HDMI to the TV.. And now you can have same video quality as the front TV. Not to mention, component video is a real pain with a total of 5 wires with 5 connections on each side.. Better to learn to deal with the HDMI quirks now days rather than dig up tire old obsolete equipment and using obsolete analog video. HDMI splitters work fine.. Good working VIP211K receivers are available on EBay, Anazon, etc. How many people can observe a TV from 20 feet and tell the resolution, as long as the screen is full? I was just trying to show the OP an easy way to hook up using the existing coax at a low cost. Richard
RLS7201 08/30/22 11:34am Technology Corner
RE: TV connection from front TV to bedroom class A

Another option is a Dish VIP211K receiver. Yes, it's old school but it has HDMI, RCA and coax outputs. It also has USB for an external hard drive. The coax output is SD. The other 2 are HD. It works for us. It does run a little warm, so I have a small, quiet, low output USB fan sitting on top of it to move a little air. Richard
RLS7201 08/29/22 05:31pm Technology Corner
RE: Onan marquis 7000 shutting off after like 15 min/overheat

Which Onan Marquis 7K gas do you have? QG or NHM. Richard
RLS7201 08/29/22 04:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New smartphone direct-to-Starlink satellite service

I like my flip phone because it's too weird talking to a piece of flat plywood type phone. Besides I like being disconnected as much as possible! X2 ([email protected] 4056W) Do we have any idea of the price structure of satellite cell service? Richard
RLS7201 08/27/22 10:45am Technology Corner
RE: Tire/Axle Question

Gdetrailes, stated. "Trailer axle bearings are not "factory sealed permanent bearings" which have no adjustments.. They are indeed "adjustable" and as they wear, they should be checked and adjusted as needed. As they are adjustable, it IS possible that they may have left the factory a bit on the loose side (not correct preload) and OP has put 10K miles on the trailer meaning it may be due to check and adjust the bearing preload." If a properly adjusted tapered bearing has become loose, is should not be readjusted, as there will be metal missing from the bearing, making it non serviceable. Richard
RLS7201 08/27/22 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

The OEMs stopped installing CCI 7719 when CCI went out of business in 2008 (14 years ago). Not because of customer complaints. I reversed engineered my CCI 7719 when it failed and made the necessary repair. The CCI solenoid coil is NOT 12 volt. It is a 9 volt coil. The valve is snapped open with 12 volts and maintained with 2 volts. As already noted, if you have a propane leak while away from your RV, the system will shut off the propane, which would keep the water heater or refrigerator flame from starting a fire in case of a leak. I consider that added safety. Richard They went out of business in 2008?. BUT, OEM's (the majority that did install) stopped in the late 90's. Customer complaints? I have 43 years as a RV tech(mainly motorized) 1979 to current. WHO would be better to state customer complaints? YOU or ME? I had to listen to people upset that their LP system shut down and caused problems with refers and all LP appliances. AS I stated, SHOW evidence of the supposed added safety with such a system. YES, such a system would be a nice feature, but due to the system unreliability, they were discontinued. Doug Fleetwood and Monaco continued to use the CCI detector until CCI went out of business. I consider them OEMs. I reversed engineered the detector when CCI went out of business and went into the repair business ([email protected]). The major reliability issue was AGE, which all detectors do. So how does one condemn a product that ages out just like it's competitors? It was a very well engineered product that only consumed 0.168 milliamps, when turned on. The sniffer failed, just like other detector products. Oh, BTW there is a new owner of CCIrepairs, just in case you need one repaired. Richard
RLS7201 08/27/22 09:36am Tech Issues
RE: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

The OEMs stopped installing CCI 7719 when CCI went out of business in 2008 (14 years ago). Not because of customer complaints. I reversed engineered my CCI 7719 when it failed and made the necessary repair. The CCI solenoid coil is NOT 12 volt. It is a 9 volt coil. The valve is snapped open with 12 volts and maintained with 2 volts. As already noted, if you have a propane leak while away from your RV, the system will shut off the propane, which would keep the water heater or refrigerator flame from starting a fire in case of a leak. I consider that added safety. Richard
RLS7201 08/25/22 07:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Delete a Propane Solenoid Safety Valve?

The OEM Propane detector is a 7719 from CCI, who went out of business in 2008. If you no longer have the 7719 detector, then just remove the valve. Do not apply 12 volts to the valve coil. The coil is designed to work with the original CCI detector and is 9 volts. If you have the original 7719, it can repaired by Larry at [email protected] Behind the detector are 3 wires. 2 red wires go to the battery banks. The yellow wire goes to the valve coil and supplies ground to the detector. Richard
RLS7201 08/22/22 08:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Gas Class A

Being somewhat frugal, I cringe when I read threads about $40,000 engine replacements, $7,000 radiators replacements, $1,000 tires and all the fun things that it takes to keep a Diesel coach going down the road. Besides I don't like the smell of diesel. I passed on a gorgeous BlueBird WanderLodge with low mileage, new tires, Detroit 60 and new batteries. It was a head turner but when something failed my head would spin. So here I sit in a 27 year old coach with a $6,000 stroker engine, $350.00 tires and the original radiator. The low cost to operate a gasser allows for fun things like a nice solar array, and all the little touches I've applied over the years. Richard
RLS7201 08/14/22 01:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sewer Hose Connections

I filed down the nubs a little, so the connection is easier to twist on and off. Richard
RLS7201 08/12/22 02:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Gas Class A

As was said earlier find the floor plan you like and then if its a gasser fine if a diesel fine. I have a 36' gasser and it has more storage than many diesels of the same size. Only one thing that wasn't mentioned regarding the diesel MH is the Air brakes. You will require an endorsement on your driver's license for the air brakes. This involves taking and passing air brake course before you can legally drive it. Which may or may not delay being able to drive it. In addition if you become sick etc.. (heaven forbid) while you're out and about does your significant other have the endorsement as well to be able to drive it home or to a safe location while on the road. This unfortunately never gets mentioned in any of the diesel vs gas MH debates. This never gets mentioned because it's not an issue in the US. I don't know of any state that requires a CDL with the air brake restriction removed to drive a motorhome with air brakes, UNLESS it's for commercial purposes. Maybe it's different where you're from. Brawless did NOT mention CDL. He only give good advice about air brake endorsements, that does exist in some states. Richard
RLS7201 08/12/22 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Kwikee series 32 step replacement Motor & Gearbox

Yes, unfortunately I am unable to read the sticker, and the numbers cast into them don't seem to match any. I think i found one that will work. Will they stop trying to retrack when it gets seated even if there more pull from the motor? If I'm reading you correctly, the motor keeps running, going thump thump, when the steps reach the end of travel. That would be the 3 cushings in the motor gear box, that have collapsed.
RLS7201 08/07/22 03:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: HWH 210 series HYD pump motor not working

Is it possable that one of these will work? Or this? Richard
RLS7201 08/03/22 07:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Who has removed bell cranks?

Those OEM bushed bell cranks were a piece of junk from the start. Bushings need a little clearance to perform properly. The bearing bell cranks from Henderson have no clearance (play). There is a lot of pressure on those bell cranks to change the steering motion 90°, thus slop in the steering wheel. You did a good thing spending a few $$ with Henderson. Richard
RLS7201 07/31/22 08:14pm Class A Motorhomes
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