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 > Your search for posts made by 'Racer-X-' found 8 matches.

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RE: Power steering pump questions, 1993 Chevrolet P30

I hear everyone with the "tension by feel" thing. I own the "kriket" belt tension testers, and I'm probably one of the few guys who prefers to use them. On another forum, someone came up with this page on the Gates web site: https://www.gates.com/us/en/resources/calculators/belt-tension-calculator That page shows the actual tension specs for Gates belts, and the new belts i have are Gates belts, so that hits what I need.
Racer-X- 09/05/19 03:33pm Class A Motorhomes
Power steering pump questions, 1993 Chevrolet P30

I'm replacing the power steering pump and all the belts on this 1993 Chevrolet P30 chassis (1994 Flair by Fleetwood motorhome). It's got the 7.4L gas V8 (Throttle body injection). I've got a service manual for a 1989 P30 chassis, but I can't find a CD of the 1993 version at the moment. I'm wondering if anyone has any of the specifications for some of the things when I put this thing back together. Information that would be nice to know: Belt tension specification for the V belt on the power steering pump (only)Belt tension specification for the V belt that goes to the power steering pump and the AC compressor for the chassis (driver/passenger area) ACBelt tension specification for the multi-rib ("serpentine") belt for the alternatorIs there an additional belt that goes from the front of the power steering pulley stack to the AC compressor. There seem to be pulleys there for an additional belt, but I didn't find a belt on those pulleys. What size belt or what part number fits there? If anyone has done this replacement before, any tips (I won't ask how you know these things) and traps for this particular job. So far it doesn't seem too bad. I've had the usual clearance issues that you get working on any RV or van (How do I get to that thing? type stuff). I've got the old pump mostly off already. It looks like I need to juggle it around some to take it out the top, because it doesn't seem to want to come out the bottom. I know I'll have to pull the pulley stack off it and transfer it to the new one, and the adjustable bracketry that is bolted to the thing to allow it to pivot for adjustment.
Racer-X- 09/05/19 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake booster (hydraulic) and master cylinder (1993 P30)

I know it's been a while, but here's the report. I finally got back to this project in mid August. We sent the old master cylinder, hydro booster, and the pedal linkage/bell crank piece as an assembly to Prior for rebuilding. They took a little over 2 weeks to get it back to us (including shipping from Atlanta to Prior in TX and back, which accounted for about 6 days total). They seemed to do a good job. No more leaks, no more sinking pedal. It seems like they even lubricated the pivot shaft on that big bell crank for us. I took that apart to put some fresh grease in, but it looked like it was freshly greased when I pulled it apart. Unfortunately, the pedal effort was still very high, but steering effort is also pretty high as well. We took it out anyway for the weekend before labor day, and it drove OK, but it took a lot of pressure on the brake pedal to get the thing stopped. Since the steering is also very high effort, especially at lower speeds, the power steering pump is suspect for sure. I've ordered a new power (remanufactured) steering pump (and new belts) that should be delivered today or tomorrow. I'll probably get back to it on Monday to install it. Today I'm removing the old power steering pump today. Other than the normal close quarters stuff you get with any engine work on an RV/Van, it seems to be coming out OK.
Racer-X- 09/05/19 09:44am Class A Motorhomes
Brake booster (hydraulic) and master cylinder (1993 P30)

The brakes on this thing are on my "do list." They were scary to drive with. Barely adequate to bring it to a stop, definitely no such thing as an "Emergency stop" within possibility. We drove it home from the previous owner on mostly empty roads on a weekend, and I still felt somewhat unsafe. Looking at the system, I'm seeing the hydraulic brake booster is leaking fluid (power steering fluid) fairly profusely. It "marks its spot" when you park it. I haven't dug into the brake lines and master cylinder yet. The pedal required a lot of force (like the booster wasn't boosting), and still felt kind of spongey (like there's air in the system or maybe a fluid leak). It's getting a new or rebuilt booster and master cylinder at this point. Has anyone used Prior Brake Products? That's the rebuilders/service that RockAuto.com offers for these hydraulic booster units and master cylinders. It looks like they want ~$160 for "return and rebuild service" for the hydro booster only, and ~$190 for the same "return and rebuild service" for the booster and master cylinder together. If I understand the process, you send yours in, they replace seals, test and fix anything else and send your exact unit back "remanufactured." It looks like I need to know a RPO code and/or a "pedal rod code" when I order/send the unit in. RPO codes brings up another interesting question. Where is the SPIDS on this chassis? It's usually in the glove box on most GM Vehicles. I haven't found a glove box in this one, so I don't know where they might have stuck the sticker.
Racer-X- 04/29/19 01:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical issue (AC Power)

I believe the cord is molded at the plug end. I won't be back to work on this one until later this week, probably Thursday. I'll inspect both ends of the shore power cord and the connection to the RV. I suspect that's where the problem will be. On a related AC Power issue. We've hung a flat screen LCD TV on the wall behind the dining table. I used the tri-split rivets to hold the bracket for it to the wall. I think that's the best fasteners for that job. It seems to be secure and strong. There's a power outlet in that wall on the bathroom side. Will I be able to get power from there and install a new AC power outlet on the side toward the table. And why are all the AC power plates in this thing "single outlet" with a faux second outlet (molded to look like one, but the socket slots aren't open, they are solid plastic). Can I replace any of them with dual outlets? Or even dual + USB power type outlets for charging phones, tablets, etc.
Racer-X- 04/29/19 09:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electrical issue (AC Power)

What do you get when you plug the tester into the GFCI outlet on the house, Does it read a correct connection? The outlet at the house tests good. He had an extension cord with the third prong cut off the male plug where it plugged into the house. I brought my own 12 gauge extension cord with all prongs connected and unmodified, and that didn't help anything at all. Any idea if the power cord or battery charger has been replaced? As Pianotuna said it sounds like something is wired backwards. I have no idea what has been replaced. He bought this one used a month or so ago. I'm helping with mechanical "maintenance catch up" and fixing some of the mechanical issues with the chassis, engine, suspension. I'm new the the "home" part of motorhomes. So I think I'm hearing I need to check in the cubby where the big power cord for the motor home is, and see if the end of that cord where it attaches to the motorhome coachwork wiring system is connected correcly (hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground and to the chassis). That could be wired backwards, I guess. The big power cord looks newer than a lot of the other parts on this one, so it might have been replaced.
Racer-X- 04/28/19 03:17pm Class A Motorhomes
Electrical issue (AC Power)

I'm doing some repair/restoration work on a 1995 Fleetwood Flair (built on a 1993 Chevrolet P30 chassis). I'm pretty good with the mechanics of the chassis, engine, transmission, suspension, the "motor" part. The "home" part is foreign to me. One issue I've discovered (the hard way) is that there's something seriously wrong with the AC wiring in this one. We have it plugged in to an outdoor outlet on his house (GFCI protected). The RV has a 30 amp plug on it, but we've got an adapter to a "normal' three prong, 12 Gauge extension cord for now. We're not running the AC in the unit or anything significant. We haven't even turned on the fridge yet. Mostly, just a "boom box" to listen to while we're cleaning up and dealing with various issues. Here's the first major issue. When I'm working on the thing, the frame and chassis are live with AC power. If it's plugged in, and I'm kneeling on the ground and I touch anything metal on the frame, engine, suspension, whatever, I get a serious shock, like I stuck a paper clip in an electric outlet. There's no issue if I'm working through the doghouse from inside to work on the top of the engine. The issue is only when I'm on the ground and touch the thing with my bare hands or with a metal tool/wrench. If I unplug the power, there's no issue. Actually, working on the thing with it plugged in is borderline dangerous. I checked the AC outlets in the RV with one of those plug in analyzers (something like https://amzn.com/B00170KUPC ) and it's reading "Hot/Neutral Reversed" for all the outlets in the RV. I don't even know where to start to diagnose and fix this. Is there any obvious place where something could be connected incorrectly to cause this problem? UPDATE: I'll be looking at the "shore power" cord plug and the connection at the junction box in the motorhome later this week, May 2 or May 3. Thanks to all who answered on this topic. On a related AC Power issue. We've hung a flat screen LCD TV on the wall behind the dining table. I used the tri-split rivets to hold the bracket for it to the wall. I think that's the best fasteners for that job. It seems to be secure and strong. There's a power outlet in that wall on the bathroom side. Will I be able to get power from there and install a new AC power outlet on the side toward the table? Should I add another circuit with breaker to the panel and run more wires? or should I just wire in parallel with the outlet in the bathroom? And why are all the AC power plates in this thing "single outlet" with a faux second outlet (molded to look like one, but the socket slots aren't open, they are solid plastic). Can I replace any of them with dual outlets? Or even dual + USB power type outlets for charging phones, tablets, etc.
Racer-X- 04/28/19 02:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Another Question on Front Coil Springs

I guess I'm late on this discussion. I just joined the forums here for other issues. For future readers who might find this thread in a search or want more information, I thought I'd share some details. Short answer, if OE springs are still available, like from GM or Ford or whoever, use your VIN to look up what was installed, and use a replacement for the original. That's the easiest solution. If you want to "do something different," then you should understand a bit more about how springs work and how y our suspension works. Springs have two ratings that are important. One is the load capacity of the spring. This is how much weight can be put on the spring without damaging the spring (permanently deforming it or breaking it). For safety reasons, you need a spring that exceeds 1/2 of the GAWR for the axle that it's installed on. The reason for this is fairly obvious. The other rating for the spring is the spring rate, expressed in "pounds per inch." This is how many pounds of weight must be applied to the spring to compress it one inch. The stiffer the spring, the higher this rate will be. Also note that for most suspension designs, the "wheel rate" in pounds per inch is different, often lower than the spring rate of the spring itself. This is because the suspension usually has leverage on the spring. For a dual wishbone type suspension, the wheel rate is the spring rate times the ratio of the distance from the spring center to the control arm pivot point to the distance from the lower ball joint to the control arm pivot point. For a simpler explanation, if the center of the spring is half way between the control arm pivot (the bushings) and the lower ball joint, then the wheel rate will be half of the spring rate. That's because the wheel has 2:1 leverage on the spring.
Racer-X- 04/28/19 02:40pm Class A Motorhomes
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