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RE: Fuel for Gassers

JaxDad, I realize that. Just being a bit sloppy. :) I was including various situations in one set of rounded numbers: towing/not towing, generator use, different seasons, etc. But high 7's to 7 is about 10%. I guess I should've said low to mid 7's on the ethanol junk and from high 7's to low 8's with real gas. That would definitely be a more accurate statement. :) My highest MPG ever, on a tank of real gas, occurred on a long day trip in the Fall (no generator, no A/Cs, not towing the minivan and driving mostly level terrain) and the rig returned about 9.2 MPG over the 300 mile round trip. Unfortunately, I only had the rig about a year or so before all we could get up in this neck of the woods was the ethanol junk, so I couldn't really get really good, seasonal data. To be honest, I didn't expect any MPG drop when they forced the E-10 on us. But sure as can be, once that was our only choice, every vehicle we owned took an MPG hit in the neighborhood of 10%. For the cars, this became obviously apparent without even measuring anything. The "low fuel" warning lights were going on with about 10% fewer miles traveled. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/27/21 08:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel for Gassers

Ponderosa, I'm right there with Hikerdogs and JaxDad. When we first purchased our motorhome, 10% ethanol was not common in New England. Within a few short years, it was mandated. Without a doubt, our gas mileage dropped 10% with the 10% ethanol fuel. I used to get consistent high 7's to low 8's. On ethanol, it hovers around 7. One time, on a trip down south, unbeknownst to me, I stopped at a station and put REAL GAS into the rig. As we're driving down the highway, I checked the Scangauge MPG and the dash MPG...BOTH were reflecting around 8 MPG, plus or minus, when I had been seeing the typical low 7's the entire trip up to that point. At first, I thought I was just going down hill, but the GPS elevation proved that not to be the case. Shortly after the next fill-up, the mileage pretty much was back to the low 7's. Once we arrived at our destination, I carefully reviewed the receipts and realized the state we had fueled in which gave the MPG boost DID NOT mandate ethanol fuels. I know what the "science" says about the alcohol having an energy content. Of course it does. But for all of our vehicles, I've always experienced about a 10% drop in MPG when forced to run 10% ethanol gas. Perhaps there are some vehicles that might only see a 3% or 4% drop in MPG on 10% ethanol. I have no idea. I just know that NONE of our vehicles are in that category, nor any vehicles owned by folks I've chatted with about this. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/26/21 08:20pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Door latch

GrouchyOldMan, Thank you for that link. I just replaced my Trimark latch in April 2019 to the tune of $140 (it still had the pot metal bolt) and it started acting up today. (The latch was binding and wouldn't retract all the way or extend all the way.) When I disassembled it to see what was going on, I noticed that the pot metal bolt has a hairline crack on the bottom section of the slotted area. There was a small piece of plastic that apparently wedged itself between the bolt and the surrounding mechanism. I cleared that out of the way and the assembly seems to be working OK, for now. I just ordered the replacement piece from your link and I'm going to baby the latch until it comes in. Oh...and I also made sure I can get in through the driver's door in case the bolt cracks when we exit the rig. Anyway, thank you for posting that link. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/26/21 11:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Long Term Stays

Alex and Tee, It probably wouldn't hurt the engine to run it for a bit every couple of weeks. You want to run it long enough so that any moisture in the exhaust will burn off. However, if your rig is like mine, starting the engine with the hydraulic jacks down will get you a constant beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep warning that the jacks are down. You might want to raise them first. Assuming your site is mostly level, I wouldn't worry about the slides, but if you want run them in and out too, no harm done. Depending upon how your chassis & coach electrical systems are wired, you might want to put a small trickle charger on the chassis battery to keep it charged up. But if you start the engine once a week or so, it shouldn't be any problem. The generator should probably be run every once in a while with a moderate load on it. Obviously, only during the times considered as "generator hours" by the campground. I usually try to run mine once a month for a 1/2 hour, but I'll admit to letting that slip to 2 or even three months, especially during the winter if we don't get a "warm spell". So far, no harm done after 17 seasons. All that said, other than keeping the batteries topped off, I'd probably say if you left it alone you'd be fine too. Probably the most important part of exercising the systems is to help you stay familiar with everything. Being a new rig and all, you'll probably have a lot to learn. As for propane, there might be a truck which comes by to deliver, or you might have to move the rig to the propane filling station at the campground. Or, perhaps, to a local filling station. I'm sure a quick call to the intended campground will tell you the details. :) Another thing I recommend is to make your tires are aired up to the proper pressure before travelling. If you have a tire pressure monitoring system, so much the better. If you don't, then you might want to consider investing in one. I think improper tire maintenance (operating at proper pressures) is one of the most common mistakes RV owners make. So make sure you have the proper pressure gauge(s) and equipment to keep your tires at the proper pressure. Remember that tire pressure changes with temperature. A properly inflated tire at 90 degrees in the summer may be under-inflated at 40 degrees. So the pressure in your tires might be fine when you arrive at your destination, but, 6 months later, depending upon the seasons, it might need to be adjusted to stay within the tire manufacturer's specs. On the other hand arriving in Fall and leaving in Spring might not matter. Arriving in the summer and leaving in the winter could be a completely different story. Safe travels! ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/22/21 07:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Mileage on 8.1 Workhorse

dodge guy and ArchHoagland, I agree with your math and refueling policies. The only thing I'd add is that the height for the pick-up tube for the generator is usually set at about the 1/4 full mark on the gas tank. So if you are using the generator, you definitely want to be looking for fuel well before the 1/4 full point on the tank. And up and down hills might even cause it to start sucking air before that point is reached. In our rig we usually travel with the generator running to keep the family comfortable, so I used to fill up around the 325-350 mile point which seemed to work well for us. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/22/21 05:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fuel Mileage on 8.1 Workhorse

Hi, As others have said, I'd expect anywhere between high 6's to low 9's, depending upon terrain, wind, speed, towing/not towing, running the generator and whether or not you put "real gas" into it or the 10% ethanol junk many of us are forced to use. While it probably doesn't matter too much to the answer of your question, out of curiosity, are you looking at a W-series Workhorse or a P-series Workhorse? ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/22/21 09:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Shower hose fittings problem

kejones62, You said "....which is basically just an overpaid plumber". WOW... you must've been making the REALLY BIG BUCKS then!!! LOL While I don't have loads of experience with RV and shower head fittings, I've never seen any other than the standard fittings. I just had to buy & install a new shower head/hose combo for my parents sticks & bricks home built back in 1964, and things fit right up. It was basically the same model I installed in my RV about 10 years ago. Come to think of it, I didn't even remember seeing any options for purchasing the shower head kits with DIFFERENT sized threads, so that leads me to think there is just a single standard. Did you have this RV since it was new? Is it possible a previous owner did some "custom plumbing"? I wouldn't think it would be assembled with the wrong fitting at the factory, but who knows? They might have just tightened things up until they didn't leak and ship it off to the dealer if the correct fitting wasn't available. I'm sure it wouldn't be the first time. I hope you find the resolution to your problem. Please post who you resolved the problem so others reading here can benefit from your experiences. Good Luck, ~Rick On Edit: I went to Amazon and under the two star reviews I found this from a verified purchaser: "The nut that attaches to the shower is poorly made. I have three showers, it would only screw on properly to one of them. And it still leaked. The nut is very short and was made of cheap materials. Brass Insert???? I would not recommend this product." Which is pretty odd that it would fit one shower, but not two others. I think this could be a case where you'll save time by just bringing things with you to your local hardware store and making sure everything fits before you buy. Or it can give you the opportunity to replace a part (diverter fitting?) so it fits the standard shower extension hoses available.
Rick Jay 07/20/21 11:11am Tech Issues
RE: trying to get stuck tire off

Those Colby Valves are cool. I didn't know about them. Looks like I have something else to buy for my "spare parts" collection. :) Thanks for the tip! And I second the process of slightly loosening the lug nuts and driving the vehicle around a bit. A couple of slow speed, hard stops forward and in reverse has always done the trick for me. Of course, it's too late to do that once it's up on the lift, so people reach for the pry bars and sledge hammers thinking (hoping) the stuck rims will quickly loosen. In my experience, they usually don't. So IF I stumble upon that problem, I lower the vehicle, put the lug nuts back on within a thread or two of touching, and do a couple of hard, slow speed stops. Knock on wood, that has always worked without having to break much of a sweat. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/18/21 10:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: buying an rv

Hi josianna, Welcome to the forums! I read your other post so I'll limit my comments here to the rig. I'd like to start off by saying that this IS a Class C motorhome you mentioned, but the post is in the Class A forums. You might wish to ask the moderators if they could move it to the Class C Forums. There's nice people over there, too! :) There are some that are VERY knowledgable about Class C's of all brands. The good news: Back in the day that motorhome was built, Bigfoot was one of the top quality Class C brands made. They came with a price. They probably had some of the best insulation of any Class C made, then or now. (We were still researching for our first (and still only) RV during that time period and gave the Class C's a lot of scrutiny for our intended purposes. I will add that the input we got from the folks on these forums was invaluable to us making the right decision and buying the right rig the first time.) The mileage on the rig you mentioned is low, but not too low. I'd like to know how many hours are on the generator, because if they're not properly exercised, they tend to need a carburetor cleaning/rebuild. In this market, as others have said, I don't know whether that's a good price or not. I guess my suggestion is if you can delay the process for buying by a year or so, the prices will hopefully fall back into reason as all of the people who have instantly wanted to become RV'ers realize that this is NOT an inexpensive way to vacation or live. The bad news: The unit you are looking at has two slides. Slides add weight. They can also serve as opportunities for water to seep in if the seals aren't kept intact. That rig, like most, is built upon the Ford E-450 chassis. A good chassis, for sure. But a 28' long motorhome loaded with options (which the Bigfoots generally were) and two slides pushed the chassis axle weight limits toward their maximums, especially the rear axle. The brochure I found for you model says the "base dry weight" is 11,390 pounds. The maximum weight capacity of the chassis is 14,050 lbs. BUT, that has to be properly distributed between the front and rear axles. You can't really add much weight to the front axle, so most of the "cargo carrying capacity" is limited to the rear axle limits. So, even though there might be large storage bins, IF you want to stay within the chassis limits, you will have to pack lightly. Also, realize that is a "base dry weight". I don't know how Bigfoot defined that, I'm assuming it means no fuels, water, propane and "base" might mean the weight BEFORE the put on the air conditioner, generator, etc. It has a very nice 63 gallon fresh water tank, but when you fill that, you're going to add 500 lbs. of weight right there. 55 gallons of gas is a bit over 300 lbs., and about 90 lbs. of propane. So you can see how the numbers may add up. Now, I did read that you're single with two dogs, so if you are able to pack lightly, you could probably make this work. (With our research, I knew for our growing family of 6 at the time, we needed a lot more weight capacity and space than the E-450 chassis could offer us.) One other thing to consider is that rig is large enough that you probably want to have another mode of transportation to use once you're parked. So that means towing a car behind you. That's a topic all by itself, but it's something you should think about. Being a "solo" person, you can't have someone else drive your car for you, not that that is very convenient anyway. Most of us tow another vehicle. Again, the Bigfoot is a "jewel" in the Class C market IF it's been properly maintained. It is 18 or 19 years old. If it was stored inside a building, GREAT! If not, there could be some real issues. If there is ANY SIGNS of water intrusion, it could be VERY EXPENSIVE to repair, and I'd probably suggest you look at other options. Without fairly frequent use, critters sometimes find their way inside and gnaw on wiring harnesses which can cause all sorts of issues, especially if it's the chassis wiring harnesses. Feel free to ask us any questions. We're here to help! Good Luck in your search, ~Rick P.S. When we bought our rig, I had spent a bit over 2 years doing the research, most of it right here on these forums. We were pretty much complete newbies to camping and RV'ing at the time. We went from looking at small hybrids to pull behind our minivan to the Class A in our signature which we use to tow our minivan behind us. And every solution available at the time in between. Fortunately, I had a flexible budget! LOL But my point being is that this is not something you want to rush into without knowing all of the details, unless you have A LOT of "disposable income" you don't mind disposing of to RV dealers & repair people.
Rick Jay 07/15/21 11:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Approximate fuel milage of these 2 motorhomes?l

aswagerty14, Welcome to the Forums! Is this your first RV you're looking to purchase? As a few others have noted, I'd put floorplan above just about any other deciding factor, except condition, of course. Do both of the units you're looking at have the same floorplan? If so, then you can nit-pick at other things. If not, you need to carefully study each floorplan to see what will work best for you. Some examples: There are split-baths and all-in-one baths. If you have kids, I think the all-in-one baths are a better option. But if it's just a couple, some prefer the split-baths. Some rigs have bath and a half. Some have sofa(s) and a dinette. Some have free standing table and chairs in stead of the dinette. Some have a sofa and/or lounge chairs. Queen bed/kind bed/bunk beds/drop-down bed? Which cabinets and drawers are inaccessible when the slides are in? (Important if/when you're travelling on the road and can't extend the slides.) Lots of things to consider. These are things that IF they're not right for you, will wear at you much more so than a few mpg difference. georgelesley said it best above "If you or DW, especially DW, do not like the floorplan your fuel mileage will be unlimited since you will not use it for very long and it will just sit in your yard." And one other thing to remember is that in many parts of the country and at different periods in the recent past, diesel fuel costs more than gasoline. So the extra mpg diesel delivers may be offset somewhat by the added cost of the fuel. Have you been able to drive each of them? It's usually the driving experience that sells folks on the diesel over the gasser. If you're just looking at papers & websites, you are doing yourself a disservice in trying to decide between gas & diesel. There ARE substantial differences between a DP and a gasser Class A motorhome, but like many others have said, I wouldn't make the decision on mpg differences. Good Luck in your decision, :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/14/21 07:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing Capacity

Alex and Tee, You said "The brochure for the 36LA with liquid spring option shows a hitch rating of 5000 lbs. and a max trailer weight of 6000 lbs. On the surface, this doesn’t make sense." You are correct. This does NOT make sense. With a 5,000 lb. hitch, you are limited to towing 5,000 lbs. Period. Perhaps there's a misprint on one of the numbers. But perhaps you can call the factory to verify the true towing capacity? If your rig is loaded to the 26,000 lb. GVWR, then you can only tow 4,000 lbs, which puts you at the GCWR of 30,000 lbs. It's the GCWR that is the upper limit. That's what bgum mentioned above. If your rig is loaded to 25,000 lb.s or less, then you can tow up to 5,000 lbs., as your tow bar now limits you to 5,000 lbs. Even if your rig weighs in at 24,000 lbs, with that 5,000 lb. hitch, you will be limited to towing 5,000 lbs., and you will be 1,000 lbs. under your GCWR. Your hitch is limiting your towable weight in this case. You should be OK here, because your trailer and vehicle are 4,600 lbs. By the numbers, that means your rig can weigh up to 25,400 lbs. plus the 4,600 of trailer/vehicle equals the 30,000 lb. GCWR. It's close, but you're within the ratings AS LONG AS the rig is 25,400 lbs. or less, loaded to travel. IF you upgrade the hitch to say 6,000 lbs. by someone who knows what they're doing, your maximum towing capability will be up to 6,000 lbs. This requires that your loaded rig weighs LESS than 24,000 lbs. In other words, your towing capacity is the lesser of: The tow bar rating or GCWR minus weight of the moho loaded for travel. I think you'll be OK. I'm wondering why there's a difference in ratings. Do you know if the rear axle weight ratings are different between the two models? Maybe the new spring system reduces the rear GAWR, which could reduce the hitch weight one is able to put onto the hitch, and to reflect that, they reduced the overall tow rating. For what it's worth, on our rig, it has a GVWR of 22,000 lbs. and a GCWR of 26,000 lbs. Our Honda Odyssey weighs in a bit under 4,500 pounds, so basically I have to keep the rig's travelling weight down to 21,500 lbs. or so. The empty weight of our rig is about 18,700 lbs., so that gives us just about 2,800 lbs. to carry people, food, water & stuff. We've flirted with reaching the 26,000 GVWR a couple of times, on extended trips, but usually we're under it by at least 500 lbs. And we almost always travel with the fresh water tank full (80 gallons). Hope this helps! ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/13/21 06:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pros and Cons of Tankless water heaters in RV

We have a tankless water heater in our sticks and brick house. It's OK, you do have to change your showering style a bit. Most of us adapted, wifey curses at it every time. And it's been about 8 years so far. I've told her to turn the shower on for about 15 seconds BEFORE she steps into it, but she views that as wasting water. Soooo....she curses instead. And she likes to shut the water off (like in the RV shower) while she's soaping up, Sooooo she curses again when she turns the water back on. LOL Anyway, In NO WAY does a tankless unit save water. It definitely uses more water. Ditto what folks said about stopping and restarting the flow, as many of us do in an RV shower. Do that with a tankless water heater and there WILL BE fluctuations, hot & cold, in the delivered water temperature until the system stabilizes. At home, the water flow remains constant. We have a 10 gallon electric/propane water heater unit in our RV and it has NEVER let us lacking for hot water. Even with 5 of us camping in temperatures down into the 20's. When we all took showers, I did kick on the propane WITH the electric element to keep up with demand, but I don't know if I had to do that or not. I just did it as a precaution. BUT, everyone in the family knows how to take save water in an RV shower, but shutting off the flow. For an RV, water is a precious commodity for some of the camping we do, so no way would I want a tankless unit. The next precious commodity is propane, so having to use propane to heat water when I could be using electric is a con as well. And in a pinch, IF I run out of propane, I could always start the generator to heat the water. (I know, not efficient, but it IS an option. And I've done that while travelling because the generator is running anyway and then when we arrive at our destination, we'll have hot water.) On a full-hook up site, these issues would be minimized, but we don't always camp that way. You still have to deal with the temperature fluctuations. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/13/21 11:20am General RVing Issues
RE: 80's 454 fuel supply challenges

brycedub, I just wanted to say that IS a beautiful looking motorhome. I hope you are quickly able to discover the problem. The mountain in the background is a nice touch, too! ;) By the way, welcome to being an active poster here on the Forums. :) Please remember to post your solution once you finally figure this all out. It's always nice to hear the conclusion of the story, plus it can be helpful for those who have similar problems in the future. Good Luck to you! ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/13/21 10:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking at purchasing a safe and Reliable Motorhome

Sarah Rossi, Welcome to the Forums! I hope we can give you some decent advice. I agree with most of what's already been said. I think your price is unrealistic ESPECIALLY at this time. RV prices are sky high right now for whatever reason. For some crazy reason post-Covid people think RV'ing is a cheap way of vacationing. THEY are going to be in for a surprise. I think waiting it out a year could be a good strategy. Use that year to do some real research as to what you and your family need right now. We did our research for 2+ years before we purchased our first and current RV way back in 2004. The combined wisdom (and opinions) of the folks on this forum were instrumental in guiding us to the best solution for our needs. (OK, we started out looking at $12k hybrid trailers to tow behind our minivan and ended up with a 36' gas Class A which we use to TOW our minivan. And we looked at every option in between. But the important thing is that in the end, we found the best rig possible within our budget (though stretched a bit! LOL) and met our requirements. So, doing your research is very important. Buy the right rig the first time.) You mentioned some chassis requirements first (Cummins & Allison). That's fine, but for most of us, the floorplan is THE most important part of the motorhome. Most people are living in their motorhome far more than they're driving it, so that livability is important. Figure out what floor plan will work for you and your family, THEN find the best RV manufacturer who has something like what you need. THEN see if that's on a chassis that you want. How many of you will be travelling? What ages? Approximately how long will these trips be in duration? Just weekends, or one or two weeks, I'm guessing. At least until you reach retirement. The larger the rig, generally the more storage that will be available allowing you to pack for longer trips. Also, they typically will have larger holding tanks which allows for longer periods of time between dumping the tanks and refilling the fresh water. If you don't have any experience with RV's, read up a bit on proper water conservation techniques to get the most out of capacity in the tanks. We can usually get about 4-5 days on our tanks, depending upon use and if we go out during the day. But I've read stories of people on these forums that would barely get a day out of the same capacity. There IS a mindset you need to adopt to get the maximum flexibility out of an RV. If you know that going it, it can help you choose what is most important to you. On the other hand, if you're always going to be parked/camped in a location with full hook-ups every night, then it's not really an issue. Again, know how you're going to want to use the rig. Please note that larger rigs, especially for Class A DPs, however, DO NOT necessary mean they are geared to be home for more people. As was mentioned, a large number of DP's are designed for 2 adults. So check things like seatbelt numbers and locations, sleeping accommodations, storage locations for clothes, shoes, towels, etc. to make sure it can work for you. For example, a lot of rigs now have king sized beds. If you don't need a king size bed, then it's probably going to be a waste of valuable space. We don't have one in our sticks & bricks home, why would I want one in my RV? LOL And while I'd never say DON'T get a diesel pusher, I think you're doing yourself a disservice by not looking at gas units as well. ESPECIALLY if you're not going to be using it much in the near term and you might be purchasing another unit upon retirement. I would have LOVED to have bought a DP, but that was WAY out of price range once we realized what we needed for floorplan & storage space. To be honest, the Workhorse Chassis on our gasser has been quite reliable. A few recalls had to be done in the first couple of years, but overall it's been a good platform. That said, IF we didn't have the right floor plan on it for our needs, it wouldn't have mattered if it was Workhorse, Ford, Cummins, whatever, as wifey would be miserable. And as they say...."If mommy ain't happy, no one is happy!" LOL You mentioned safety. In my opinion, the most important aspects of safety are proper & regular maintenance in tandem with a defensive driver who understands the limitations of their vehicle and themselves. Tell us a bit more of your intended use and hopefully we can give you some more advice. If you haven't figured it out yet, you have a lot to learn, and we're willing to help you where we can. The one thing I can definitely tell you is NOT to believe anything an RV salesperson might say to you without checking with us first. ;) Good Luck, ~Rick On edit: Oh...one last thing. You mentioned "reliable". That is a word not too frequently used with RV's. At least not those purchased on a budget. But, IF we ever decide to get another motorhome, my plan would be to purchase a gently used 20-25 year old Prevost or similar rig which probably was $750k or more new. That wouldn't be in your price range, but I think that's a way of hedging the reliability issue. There are compromises in between, of course. But it's knowing what to look for and which manufacturers build the highest quality rigs. Good Luck.
Rick Jay 07/10/21 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking to downsize a little - and we went and done it!

willaid, Wow, you've been through A LOT. Glad to see you emerged with your sense of humor intact!!! :) The new rig looks nice. I hope you and your new bride make tons of great memories in your new RV. Best Wishes!!! ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/08/21 06:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Considering move from class A to C

TechWriter, That is a NICE rig you linked to. It looks to be in great shape for a 2002. Even so, I would say the price looks high, but I also realize that this is a seller's market, not a buyer's market. So what is your budget for your next rig? Maybe you could sell your current rig now and then next year when RV prices plummet (a prediction I just made using my crystal ball! LOL) you might be able to pick something along the lines of that Country Coach for a better price. Good Luck on your search, ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/30/21 02:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Convection oven exhaust?

In our motorhome, the combination Microwave/Convection oven/fan vents outside and for the most part, I think that's a better system. I'm sure it's cheaper to vent it inside, and that's probably the manufacturer's reason for doing so. Your rig is quite a bit newer than ours, so I'm sure that in that time manufacturer's have found ways to build 'em cheaper in such a way that people won't find out about it until after they've bought 'em. That's just one of the ways they getcha! LOL I can tell you this, if you ever decide to take it down to take a closer look, I highly recommend you have another STRONG set of arms available to assist you. The units are pretty heavy, but coupled with that is that they're bulky and it's hard to get a good hold on things while you're trying to loosen & remove screws. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/29/21 08:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: So long and happy travels

Glad to hear you got a good price for your rig. You don't have to be a stranger here on the forums just because you don't have a rig. You've got lots of years of experience which some "newbie" or even "not-so-newbie" might be able to benefit from. Ya' never know. By the way, my aunt and uncle, who were responsible for getting our family into the RV Lifestyle, had the Winnebago version of your 35L as a 2007 model. It was a good rig for them. Best wishes for where ever life's roads take you. ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/29/21 07:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electric bikes !!

I just bought one of these Jetson Bolt Pro Electric Bikes from Costco.com for $350. I think it's supposed to arrive later this week. It's not fast and doesn't have a long range, but it might fit a need my wife has to help her get around while the rest of us ride our bikes. Not sure if it's any good, but if not, Costco will take it back without question. Most of the reviews seemed pretty good. The price looks too good to be true, though. Anybody have one of these? ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/28/21 03:48pm General RVing Issues
RE: white dust coming out of AC vents - any ideas?

Great! Now it if doesn't work, you can blame me! LOL Hopefully that will be a permanent cure to the problem! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/27/21 02:29pm Class A Motorhomes
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