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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 12 matches.

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RE: electrical issue

whemme, A properly wired 50Amp service consists of two lines (L1 & L2) of 50Amp service, so the maximum power deliverable is: 50Amps x 2 x 120volts = 12,000 watts. ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/24/20 07:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Generator question

A big pot hole or other jarring motion could cause the oil level sensor to shut things down. It doesn't mean that the oil level is low but for an instant if it appears that the level is low it shuts the generator off. I agree with this, especially if this is an Onan Marquis Gold. That's what we have in our Georgie Boy motorhome. I noticed it would do this more frequently if the oil level dropped a bit, so I was always careful to top off the oil in the generator before every trip. I also noticed it was most likely to happen when travelling in hot weather, above 85 degrees or so. It never happened when the rig was parked. I was using the multi-viscosity oil recommended (I don't generally use synthetic oils, just dino oil changed regularly) because we camped in early Spring until late Fall, and occasionally in the winter here in the Northeast, so I liked the extended cold temperature operation the multi-vis oil provided. However, on a lark, at the pre-summer oil change, I filled the crankcase of the generator with the straight 30W oil recommended. I rarely, if ever, have the problem any more. Even spending two months in Florida in the summertime, no issues. IF it happens now, I know that it's because I've neglected checking the oil level and it's a bit low. I top it off and we're good. So, if you're using the multi-viscosity oils recommended, try using whatever straight blend oil is recommended for hot weather and see if that helps. By the way, the straight 30W has worked for us even in the Spring & Fall camping as usually it's over 32 degrees when we go camping. If you come to Pennsylvania, don't plan on running your generator while driving. Funny you should mention that. While the problem existed in most of the New England states, it WAS particularly annoying when travelling through Pennsylvania. We used to vacation in the Lancaster, PA area frequently when the kids were small, so this was usually my "test area" while working on solving the problem. When I was able to make the trip to PA and back in the Summer without losing the generator once, I knew I had the problem licked! LOL But Massachusetts isn't that much better! Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 06/14/20 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tankless water heater options on a 35' HR

One more thing to understand is that if they DO get a 240VAC unit connected and working, that it WILL NOT work on 30Amp service. It will ONLY work on 50A service. Depending upon which generator is in their RV, it most likely won't work on generator power either. So that means they will ONLY get hot water while connected to 50A service. No hot water while on the road, dry camping or 30A campsites. In my opinion, I wouldn't put one in my RV. I have one in the house and the wife hates it. The rest of us are OK with it, but it IS different than having a full tank of hot water. I really don't think they'll be ANY space savings involved with a tankless install, either. And if money is tight, I would think the closest standard replacement would be the cheapest route. Pulling new wire, breakers and such, plus any additional propane plumbing (line might have to be upsized?) and it will be time consuming and if you have to pay someone to do that, the $$$ will QUICKLY surpass what a standard replacement would cost. Personally, I like our Propane/electric 10 Gallon heater in the RV. We've never had a hot water problem, though we all pretty good at water conservation. Well...except the teen age daughter! She tries! LOL Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 05/20/20 04:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: High end gasser or entry level DP

Two cylinders had been chewed (ignition primary) some electrical tape bit of solder. 2 new plugs (They fouled) and no more misfire. Ahhh...see...NOW you're making the point for the DP guys! I've NEVER heard of a diesel misfiring because of bad plugs or plug wires, so that's ONE thing you never had to worry about with a DP! LOL And, yes, I DID appreciate your humor!!! I was wondering where you were going with that! Thanks for the laugh. LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 05/03/20 10:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replace Dinette Set?

My guess is his wife wants the dinette gone. Maybe, but his "handle" is doghouseman. I'm guessing there might be some meaning to that which suggests he doesn't care what his wife wants! LOL :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/13/20 04:55pm Beginning RVing
RE: fitting on water tank

Hi spotrot, Good to hear you were able to resolve your problem. And you're right about finding the problem AND being able to do the work yourself. There is no way we would've been able to enjoy the RV lifestyle the way we have if we had to rely on dealers and paid mechanics. So far, we've been able to do everything ourselves on our Class A. Thanks for the follow-up post too! It's always good to read about the resolution to problems so future readers of the forums with a similar problem can gain knowledge from your solution. Safe travels! ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/19/20 06:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: fitting on water tank

I have no idea if they'll help or not, but have you looked at the 2008 Plumbing Diagrams for Winnebago/Itasca? Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/17/20 04:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wierd bathroom water problem

Just a wild guess, but is it possible one of the winterizing valves or water heater bypass valve(s) got moved? I believe Winnebago has all the plumbing diagrams on their website, so I'd recommend you check them out to see exactly what might be causing the issue. ~Rick
Rick Jay 01/02/20 12:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Electronic failures, PCB repairs.

Ditto what ScottG said. I'm an EE as well. What frustrates me to no end is when relatively simple circuit boards are potted (filled/covered) with epoxy so they can't be worked on. But if your board has everything accessible, then that makes it much more likely to be repairable. After solder joints, the next common culprit is either bad connectors (or broken wires at the connector) or relays which no longer work. ~Rick
Rick Jay 11/08/19 10:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where Fill Trans Fluid ?

You probably already know this, but in case you don't, that transmission should be filled with Transynd synthetic fluid from the factory. Make sure whatever you use is compatible (TES 295) with that. ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/17/19 12:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New to class A

We have a 2011 HHR that weighs in at less than 4000 lbs., therefore does not need an extra braking system. For the sake of the newbies, I think you need to be careful with a statement like that. IF your coach is either a Ford or Workhorse gasser, it most certainly IS supposed to have an auxiliary braking system installed per the chassis manual from the manufacturer, once your towed exceeds a specific weight. (I think it's 1,500 lbs.) I'm not talking about State regulations, I'm talking about what the manufacturer of the chassis specifies. In my opinion, they're a more knowledgeable source about our motorhomes than the State. If your rig is a diesel, then the requirements may be quite different. But still, I think it's wise advice to follow the chassis manufacturer's requirements. In other words, one cannot make a blanket statement about the requirement for supplemental braking based solely on the weight of the vehicle being towed. ON EDIT: Assuming your rig is on the more common F-53 chassis, Scroll to Page 34 of the F53 Owner's Manual. QUOTE: "The towing vehicle braking system is rated for operation at the GVWR, not the GCWR. Separate functioning brake systems are required for safe control of towed vehicles and trailers weighing more than 680 kg (1,500 lbs) when loaded." Workhorse is similar. Again, if you have a diesel, it'll probably be different, but it needs to be researched. Now, IF your toad PLUS your rig fully loaded weighs in less than the GVWR, then you are correct, and an auxiliary brake system is NOT required. However, I can say with reasonable certainty, that is a very, very small fraction of all gas motorhome setups. Most push the GVWR just being loaded for travel, forget about adding the toad weight. jets80, My recommendation is to find a vehicle you like which can be flat-towed, buy it and use it. Yes it's an expense, but the convenience is well worth it. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/05/19 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: To Buy or build

way2roll, That's a pretty ambitious project, and considering you don't have the space available to work on it, I wouldn't even consider it. That said, your friends "custom Sprinter"....has he brought it to the scales to have it weighed? I've read many things about the Sprinters, and a common issue is that they are very low on available cargo carrying capacity. If your friend built it like he'd build a house, without any consideration for the weight of the materials used, he might be VERY overweight. In my opinion, that would be unsafe. Again, in my opinion, that would quickly take the bloom off of THAT rose! LOL Obviously, if you work on converting a larger chassis which has ample weight capacity this probably won't be a concern. But then we're back to the lack of space. In my opinion, and what I'm thinking about, is to pick up a nice, 20 year oldish , low mileage, well cared for, high-end Prevost or similar when I'm ready to retire and do some serious travelling. Personally, I'm not worried about the "green" thing, but maybe you can convince your wife that by purchasing a used motorhome, you're actually doing a GREAT thing by getting more life out of everything that went in to create it. The ULTIMATE recycling. You're not using ANY new materials, unless you make some mods to the existing layout. Good Luck, hopefully things won't get too heated! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 10/01/19 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
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