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RE: sewer odor

Plenty of water will keep the black tank clean and odor free... Um...OK...I don't have the healthiest diet, but I would be curious to know what you and your family eats so that there is no odor in the black tank? I mean, if the vent system is working properly, you shouldn't smell it, but it WILL be there. I also never quite reasoned out the "plenty of water" concept, though I know many do it. I didn't want a rig with a large black tank so that I could fill it 3/4 full with fresh water. I want the capacity for "stuff"! I NEVER add any additional water to the black tank. I mean most people pee much more than they poop, so why add pure water? The pee will do the job, basically. No problem. I DO use black tank chemicals to help break things up a bit because there may be times the rig might go several weeks between dumpings, depending upon use. I also use my black tank rinse just about every single time I dump. 99% of the time I dump I use my SewerSolution, too, which doesn't allow for that great "Whoooosh" of stuff out of the tank that a normal sewer hose allows. Anyway, been doing it that way for about 15 years and have never had a problem with the black tank. odor, huh? :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/09/21 05:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: sewer odor

kemer, You've gotten some great advice so far. I, too, think it's probably gray tank odor you're getting. Funny story, though not at the time. One time when we were travelling,it was one of those days when it wasn't quite warm enough to run the A/C, so we decided that we'd open up the slider windows on the driver & passenger side and I opened one of the windows in the back bedroom. The thought being is that there would be a natural draft of nice, cool air from the front to the back. I may have popped open the roof vent a bit, as well. The kids were mid-ship at the dinette, playing some games. It sounded like a good plan. We had been travelling and after about an hour or so, every once in a while one of the kids would say "Ewwww, what stinks?" Well, wifey and I were up front where the nice, cool, fresh air was coming in so we didn't smell anything. We told them it was their imagination. LOL Then when we finally stopped at a rest stop and I walked back there, I could smell the very foul smell towards the middle of the motorhome. Let's just say, it WAS NOT their imagination! What I figured had happened is that with the air moving through the RV, there was a lower pressure created in the RV than in the gray water tank. This, coupled with the sloshing around, caused the water in the sink traps to eventually splash out enough so that the low pressure inside the RV was able to draw the gray tank odors into the rig. Before hitting the road again, I put water down all of the drains and firmly installed the stoppers in the two kitchen sinks and the bathroom sink. That seemed to have solved the problem. I do that as a matter of course before we travel now, and we haven't had the issue since. I wasn't sure if one of the air admittance valves might also had been faulty, so I replaced those as well when we returned home, just in case. I like the idea of dumping Pinesol into the gray tank before your next trip. That should help you pin down which tank odors you're getting. Good Luck! ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/09/21 05:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: STOLEN Tiger Adventure Vehicle

So sorry to hear this. I hope you recover it soon! ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/09/21 04:12pm General RVing Issues
RE: How to get a loan for RV

et cetera, My apologies for this comment. I know you've been a long-time member here on the forums and I have to agree with the others that things don't seem to be adding up. One thing that came to mind is that you wanted to find a piece of property (5 acres?) and park your RV on it. It's my understanding that many towns won't allow that, and I can only imagine that being close to D.C. the likely hood is pretty good that it would not be allowed. But who knows? And I mean no disrespect, but perhaps you should consider changing the Topic of this thread to "How NOT to get a loan for an RV", because it seems like you've done a number of things which have prevented you from getting the loan you seek. Good Luck, I hope you are able to arrive at a solution that works best for you. Perhaps getting/keeping an apartment for a year to give you time to sort things out isn't such a bad thing? Just a suggestion. ~Rick
Rick Jay 04/09/21 04:08pm Beginning RVing
RE: 2004 Dynamax Sport Sedan 220 mileage

I don't know much about the chassis that particular motorhome is based upon, but a couple of things come to mind which might have skewed your number to the lower side. Though, I'm tempted to say that 12-14 MPG is probably pretty optimistic if this is a gas engine motorhome. That said, how long was your trip? Did you have to fill the tank several times, or are you basing your calculations on a half-tank of fuel? The more times you "fill the tank" you tend to average out the fact that tanks don't always fill to the same level everytime. If you base it on a single fill, you the pump may have kicked off early when you topped it off to leave, and then didn't kick off early when you refilled. Also, what terrain were you travelling over? A lot of mountains, or mostly level? Was your trip recent? If it was during a cold snap (we've had a few in recent weeks), your mpg will be lower in the colder weather. Can you tell us any more about what chassis the rig is built on? Again, I think 12-14 might be optimistic, but I would think 9-12 could be within reason. So you getting about 8 isn't that far off. But, rather than dwell on MPG....HOW DID YOU LIKE THE RIG!!! :-) I've seen some Dynamax's and they looked nice! Whatever the MPG, Good Luck on your new RV! ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/18/21 05:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Hurricane is this a great deal or a big headache

I think the price is way over the line. I know prices are currently up, but I think if you give it 6 months, when gas prices will be up even further, I think the bloom will leave this rose pretty quickly. I think you run the risk of the rig losing half it's value in the next 6 months. If you're OK with losing half your money if you have to sell it, then so be it. Personally, I agree that I'd look for a good Tiffin or Newmar rig. Winnebago or Itasca would be on my short list as well. I think the best advice I can give at this time, considering this is your first RV purchase, is to TAKE YOUR TIME!!! Learn as much as you can. There are ALWAYS more rigs becoming available, and I suspect prices will adjust in the not too distant future. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/17/21 04:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Interesting RV Concept

No bathroom?
Rick Jay 03/11/21 05:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Recommendations Needed!

I agree that I think it's better to fill your RV fresh water tank with the city chlorinated water. That's what I have done and have never had a fresh-water issue. I did plumb in a dedicated water filter inside the RV and I installed two "drinking water" faucets, one in the kitchen and one in the bathroom, which are connected to these two faucets only. All of the other water in the RV is unfiltered. ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/04/21 09:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Tesla is thinking of making a Van. B plus MOHO?

Battery should last 20+ years and currently prices are still dropping. I know this is an apples to oranges comparison, but if those "20+ years" of expected battery life are anything like the "22+ years" some of my LED replacement light bulbs promised me on the package, we're going to be in trouble. LOL I've changed probably 20-25% of the LED bulbs I've installed since I converted our sticks & bricks house to LEDs about 4-5 years ago. And they didn't get bounced around on New England's famous pot-hole filled roads for 6 months of the year! Just saying! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 03/02/21 02:41pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fulltime 5er to MH - Help?

TheTripp, Looks like you're getting lots of good feedback. As I said, when we started looking, the folks on this forum were very helpful. It's nice to see that hasn't changed. Ivylog, That floorplan you posted is an example of a bathroom layout I would recommend against with much more than 2 people in the rig. When someone is in the shower, isn't the front of the rig separated from the back? If the fam is getting ready to go out to dinner or some such after a day out, those closed doors form a bottle neck and other people can't freely pass from front to back to get dressed or whatever. My recommendation is for a bathroom in which the sink, shower & john are all on one side. A definite PLUS IF the john is located so when you're sitting on it, you face the rear of the rig. Why? So IF someone was on it while travelling down the road and hard braking was required, you're pushed back against the wall. I guess you could install seatbelts on the john! LOL That was one of those things we didn't think about when we were purchasing, but it was a nice bonus. We told the kids that everyone sits to pee when rolling down the road. Ok...enough potty talk! LOL Ah man, as much as I like our rig and a "new" one isn't in our immediate future, I made the mistake of doing a bit of searching on and doing a bit of day-dreaming. Hmmmm...if only I could retire THIS year! LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/24/21 06:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fulltime 5er to MH - Help?

TheTripp, Welcome to the forums! First of all, I can tell you that there is NO BETTER WAY to travel with children than in a motorhome. When we got ours (ordered new from the factory) our children were 8, 4, 3 & 11 months. We researched over 2 years looking for our "ideal RV". Note, this was also our FIRST RV, and I wanted to get it right the first time. I spent A LOT of time on this forum, and the folks here were VERY helpful in guiding us to our final purchase. (Just to put things in perspective, we started out looking at small trailers to tow behind our Honda Odyssey, and ended up with a 36' gas Class A that we use to TOW the Odyssey. Yes, we were fortunate that I could increase the budget from $15k to $100k. Hey! It's only money! LOL) We took our time, investigated all options, and ended up with the RV & floorplan that fit our lifestyle and expected use the best. Seventeen years later and we STILL like it better than just about anything else we're ever seen. Ours is the rare (for a gasser) dual-sofa layout. As you know, travelling with youngsters in a car/pickup truck for any length of time is a challenge. I can tell you that we travelled for long days in the motorhome with the kids, and it was a breeze. Whenever we'd run into traffic, the kids did they're potty breaks and the wife would break out snacks/lunch/drinks. Heck, a few times wifey and I even switched places in stop & go traffic allowing me to hit the restroom. The great thing about it is when the traffic clears, we just keep right on cruising down the road. Most of the other cars are headed for the next exit or rest stop. We might not travel as fast as a car, but the fact we rarely had to stop, other than for gas, allowed us to keep pretty near a 50 mph average speed when on the road. Again, NO better way to travel with the kids. You WILL need counter space to prepare food for a family. Make SURE that counter space and everything else in the rig is accessible when the slides are IN. If you're pulled over in a rest area, you generally don't want to have to put out your slides, and sometimes you can't if there isn't any space. Bathroom(s): while more than one would be nice, we made do quite well with just one. I WOULD recommend that if there is a bathroom in the middle of the rig, make sure it is all on one side of the rig or the other. Some mid-ship baths use both sides of the aisle and if someone is in the bathroom, you have now completely isolated the front of the RV from the rear. NOT a good idea with kids. It's also not convenient when you're trying to get ready to go out and people need to get clothes, etc.. Oh, you WILL need LOTS of storage, as you already know. I've never been a fan of the bunk model Class A's, and they really were not much of a "thing" back when we were buying. But if our rig had bunks, they would take up space which would cause us to lose more than 50% of our clothes closets & drawers plus our utility closet (plumbed for a washer & dryer, but we never installed one). NO WAY could we live that way. Heck, just in shoes, with the 6 of us, there were at least 3 pairs of shoes per person....that's 18 shoes...and the water shoes were kept in the bin underneath the rig! LOL Oh, the Washer/Dryer setup. We thought we'd want one so we had the rig prepped for it (plumbing and electrical). But after seeing how small of a load it could handle and that we'd have to give up our utility closet, the wife decided we'd just use campground facilities. Which we have done. Now, the longest trip we ever took when the kids were young was about 5 weeks on the road when the kids were about 11, 7, 6 & 4. Not full timing by any stretch, but we lived very comfortably during the trip. I do carry a good assortment of tools and some spare parts, but we still had sufficient storage in our rig. While travelling, we often overnight at Walmart Supercenters where we pick up supplies, spend the night and get breakfast from their bakery. We ruled out the few bunk models that were available because we decided that "living space" was more important then "sleeping space" for the kids, and that really was true for our clan. Having those two sofas and dinette up front gave the entire family enough relaxing room to play games or watch a movie when the weather was bad, or if it was too cold out. (We fairly frequently camped well into the Fall, early Spring, and sometimes even in the Winter here in the Northeast.) Wifey and I got very efficient at the evening/morning ritual of prepping the sofas and dinette as needed. Probably 5 minutes at most. Bedding and pillows were stored directly above each sofa & dinette. As the kids got older, they helped. (OK....sometimes with them helping it actually took us LONGER...but they enjoyed "helping".) Oh, when they're young like yours, you can fit atleast 2 on the dinette, and three on a fold-out sofa. As they grew, then we needed to deploy both sofas & the dinette. But they loved it. The kids got the front of the RV at night and mommy & daddy had the back to ourselves, with some decent space in between. With the A/C's running and/or heaters or fans and the front TV on, that even allowed a bit of "privacy time" for wifey and I. (My gripe with most bunk-model class A's is the bunks are a paper-thin wall away from the adult bedroom.) Our rig has an RV Queen bed in it and it's good for us. I'm 6' about 250 lbs., wifey is a bit over 5' and NO WAY will I put her weight on here! LOL It works find for us. I've seen King size beds in RVs and always thought that was an inefficient use of space. You already know about outdoor storage. You should know that some rigs have basement AC's instead of roof mounted units. There might be some advantages to those, but understand they use up a fair amount of storage space. With a family, you'll need the space. Heck, you'll need a fair amount of space just for tools and things, assuming you do your own work. For what you want to tow, I think you will be looking at a rig with a tag axle. I'm assuming you have plans to home-school your children. If so, GREAT! We did that with our kids and it worked out VERY WELL for them. The curriculum we used was not cheap, but it was VERY rigorous and complete. Send me a PM if you want to know more. looks like you've got a few years before that's much of a concern! :-) I think at this point I'd be tempted to advise you to look for high-quality rigs from the early 2000's or so, well kept and low mileage. In this way, most of the depreciation is gone and if in 3-5 years you decide that you need a different floorplan, then you won't lose much by selling this rig. You're undoubtedly going to learn some things as you go, and as the children get bigger, you might find a different floorplan to be preferable. For instance, a bath and a half instead of a single bath. While we still enjoy our rig and I don't see changing it anytime soon, I think if I ever did I'd be looking for a 20-25 year old, top of the line, class A which has been gently used and nicely kept. Buying new has some advantages, but you take a hit on the depreciation if you have to sell or trade. We knew we'd be holding onto ours for a long time and with a growing family, I had to (sort of) watch the budget. But I've seen some REALLY NICE classic Prevost's and Newmars in campgrounds and I could possibly see myself being tempted in a few years after I retire. Oh, the other thing, be sure to check for seatbelted positions. Our rig came from the factory with 12 belted positions: 3 on each sofa, 4 on the dinette, passenger & driver. In addition, I installed three across our bed so that when we travelled at night and the kids were young, we put all four of them in the bed and put the straps over them loosely. Just enough so that if I had to lock up the brakes they wouldn't go all rolling out on top of each other! LOL Anyway many rigs only have 4 or 5 belted positions. You can always add more yourself, just be aware that you might have to do that. The advantage of having more belted positions than butts to put in them is that the kids had the option to move around and change seats throughout the trip. And along those lines, try to find a rig that has a lot of windows up front. The huge windshield of the class A and some nice glass area on the sides gives the kids the opportunity to see the sights too! OK...I think that's most of what I wanted to tell you. ON EDIT: Oh, one other thing...when you say "fulltime", do you mean that you don't have a physical home someplace that you can retreat too on occasion? The reason I ask is because there would be a big difference for me between packing the rig for being out on the road knowing I can come back home if needed, and packing it with everything I own that I want to keep with me. I bring a cross-section of tools with me in the rig when we travel, but no way could I bring everything I wanted to have. I guess it depends upon individual preference, but I've amassed quite a selection of tools over my life (60 yrs. old now) and I'm not ready to part with any of them now. IF wifey and I become full-timers when I retired, I plan on keeping the house. I'm sure at least one of the kids will be interested in living in it while we're away. But to pare down EVERYTHING...THAT would be real tough for us. Good Luck in your search. Take your time and please don't hesitate to ask us questions! ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/23/21 05:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Winterizing the coffee maker

Well...I don't use a Keurig, and I'm sorry to hear you had that issue. One thought...perhaps your last "cups of coffee" for the season should be made with Vodka instead of water? LOL And I have NO IDEA if heating up vodka would cause it to catch use this advice carefully...maybe brew it out over the firepit? ;) ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/19/21 02:32pm General RVing Issues
RE: Braking system required?

Whenever this issue comes up, there's always a good banter of legal, required, tested, etc. Many good points are raised and made by most. My personal thoughts are that additional braking is a good idea, and having a break-away system makes sense. But that's just me. So...when it was time to equip our Odyssey to flat-tow behind our gasser Class A, I did my own research and here is what I found. For the model year of our motorhome, both Ford and Workhorse said in their owner's manual that auxiliary braking systems were REQUIRED on anything being towed over 1,500 lbs. Our Odyssey is about 4,450 lbs. So we were way past THAT. At that point, it didn't matter to me what any individual State requirement was, the manufacturer of the chassis of my motorhome said that auxiliary brakes were needed. So I installed them. And yes, I can tell a difference in stopping whether the brake controller is on or off. While I'm not one to be easily "spooked" by "what ifs" and "going to court", etc., I did figure it would be pretty easy for even a dysfunctional lawyer to find the same statement I did in the manual. So, my answer is, check the owner's manual for your chassis and/or motorhome and see what the manufacturer says. But in my personal opinion and thoughts, auxiliary braking systems are just a good idea. Period. Stay safe! ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/10/21 12:49pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Window fog

wjschill, We have dual pane windows in our rig and a few have begun to show signs of the fog. Not bad yet, but perhaps this Spring the boys and I will give an attempt at repairing them, or having someone local repair them after we remove them. I know in years past, folks have posted the names of places which do such work very quickly, as in drop your rig off one day and pick it up the next. I don't know the name of it, but I know at least one place is down in Florida. Next time I'm down that way, if I haven't gotten to the job myself, I may do the research and schedule them to do it. They seemed to be highly recommended. Dual pane windows ARE very nice in terms of their insulation ability when it's HOT or COLD outside. But, bouncing around in a motorhome can take it's toll on the seals between the two panes. Everything has it's price! LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/04/21 10:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V-10 vs GM Vortec for towing

wjschill, When you say there is a "difference in color", could you elaborate on that just a bit. Are you talking interior or exterior. If the latter, does one have full body paint and the other doesn't? Or do both have full body paint, or does neither have full body paint and only decals? I'd one has full body paint and the other doesn't, I'd go with the one with the full body paint. As for the engines, I think that's a wash. BUT...I WOULD have a preference for the Workhorse because of the Allison transmission. If the floorplans are identical, I guess if one of them was in a more preferential color scheme, that could be important as well. Also, check the quality of the cabinets. When we ordered our rig, we opted for a rather pricey cabinetry upgrade ($4,000ish) over the basic cabinets. The quality of these are MUCH better than the stock cabinets and I believe that was an important upgrade for us as the cabinets have really withstood the test of time. Heck, the cabinets in our motorhome are actually better built than the ones we have in our house!!! LOL Tough call to make as I think a lot will have to do with which one looks better for you, all other things being equal. As others have said, pulling around a 2,800 pound TOAD shouldn't be much of a problem with the proper towing gear. Both Ford and Workhorse require an auxiliary braking system, so that's a wash as well. I think it's kind of neat that you were able to find two mostly identical rigs just on different chassis's. :) Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 02/04/21 09:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ac engine compressor

If the compressor is shot, I'd be really surprised if you could get it replaced for $500. That would be one heck of a deal. When I had to change the A/C compressor on our Workhorse rig several years back, I think the compressor by itself was a bit over $200 from a local auto parts store. I think the Workhorse dealer wanted over $700 for it!!!! Do you know that the compressor is bad, or could it be just the clutch? If it's just the clutch, that's can be quite a bit cheaper because the system doesn't have to be opened. We could probably give better advice if you can tell us more of the symptoms you observed. How do you know it's the compressor? If the refrigerant leaks down below a certain level, the compressor won't engage to protect itself. So a leak can mask itself as a bad compressor. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 01/31/21 08:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Advice and experience with older DP Class A's

We'd also like to have our kids families join us now and again, and the newer Type C's and smaller A's seem to be better suited for this. If you look at the early to mid 2000's DPs, you'll probably find a good selection which had two sofas AND a dinette. That's the floorplan we have in our gasser, which is pretty rare for a gasser.'s worked out GREAT for us and we've been using the rig since before our youngest was 1 year old. He's 17 now, and we still make it work. You might even find a bath-and-a-half model with that floorplan which would be even better. I've begun casually doing the same type of searching, even though I've got a couple of years to go before I'd make a switch from our gasser. Be patient, take your time, and find a floorplan that will work for your needs. Good Luck in your search. ~Rick
Rick Jay 01/30/21 05:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need an Education

luvmydogs, You asked: "Also, why do you need the motor to be running to get slides in?" I know on my gasser, with the engine running, the slides get an extra boost of voltage and retract with less strain, especially the heavy main slide. They won't extend if the engine is running, though, but extending doesn't require as much power because the slide doesn't have to be "lifted" first. I'm assuming for some diesels the same would be true. But I agree, I don't know why folks will idle their rigs for long periods of time. In cold or hot months, perhaps they're doing it for the heat or A/C? I figure it's their rig, let 'em do what they want. Oh, and I think some guys just love to hear the rumble of their diesels! LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 01/29/21 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Let's beat this horse once again

Hi Bob, My memory isn't good enough to remember which brands did what, and since my wife at the time specifically said "No diesels", I didn't spend too much time with the issue any way. I think there's something to be said that a quality manufacturer is likely to have higher quality in ALL of their products than those manufacturers who mostly cater to the entry level rigs. Your question: "Would a lower end DP from (Newmar, Tiffin, Monaco) be the same build quality as the upper end?" I would think the answer to that is no, that there would definitely be better quality in the higher end rigs within the same manufacturer's offerings. What I was trying to say is that I noticed that a high-end gasser from those "quality" manufacturers might be better built (cabinets, appliances, windows, conveniences) than an entry level diesel from, say, Fleetwood. (OK, I just chose "Fleetwood" as an example. I could be all wet, and I know they have higher level lines too! Insert your favorite "entry level mfg in place of Fleetwood if you must! ;) ) I don't know if, for example, a high end Tiffin gasser has better interior construction & appliances than a low end Tiffin DP. I'm sure someone who actually has experience with those model lines could answer much better than I. One technique I used to use when physically shopping for rigs, I would look at the cabinetry. The quality of the woodwork will tell you volumes. Then open a drawer or cabinet and look inside. If the drawer glides are sloppy, uneven, of the drawer doesn't operate smoothly, those are all signs of either shoddy construction (when new) or lack of maintenance or neglect on used rigs. Ditto cabinet doors which are crooked or loose. Screws don't hold as well in pressboard construction as they do in REAL solid wood, and after being tightened over and over, they tend to strip-out and require some additional attention. You are correct though, trying to sort out manufacturers, models and years, especially when going back 10-20 years, can be a challenge. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 01/25/21 11:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Let's beat this horse once again

Hello again! I suppose there is one option which usually doesn't get mentioned, and it involves a bit of extra research for each specific model brand. Most people put a dividing line between diesel pusher and gasser. Fair enough. But WAY BACK in 2002/3/4 when we were doing our research, I did notice something. And that is there are several manufacturers which produce a "low end" diesel which didn't cost much more than their "top end" gasser, or perhaps, a higher quality manufacturer's "top end" gasser. I found this to be curious...I could almost purchase a new DP for the cost of a gasser. Then I looked closely at the cheaper DP. Yes, it was a DP. BUT...what struck me first was the quality of the interiors and appliances. They were basically similar to what you found in the low-end to mid-end gassers. Looking at the mechanicals, things like airbags, leveling, tow ratings and other things were well below the quality of what was normally assumed to be found in a DP. So, I guess what I'm saying, is that make sure you look at more than just being a "DP" or a "gasser". Do some research to see where that model fits into the manufacturer's offerings. After 15-20 years, I would really expect one of those "low end DPs" to be pretty "beat up" inside. The engine might be low mileage, but the house construction is basically the same as the low end gassers, which is definitely in the same league as the high-end gassers or most DPs. As always, Buyer Beware! But if you limit your searches to the gasser upper-end manufacturer lines such as (Newmar, Tiffin, Monaco, etc.) you might be able to find a good used, gasser built with quality, yet having the gas platform. Just a thought! Good Luck in your search! ~Rick
Rick Jay 01/24/21 10:20am Class A Motorhomes
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