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 > Your search for posts made by 'RustyMacIntosh' found 71 matches.

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RE: 95 Bounder 34J--rear leafs--shop recommendation

I dont know how the front tire was so high, I had tires put on it in Oct, my I'm been watching the rears, I never paid much attention to the front We are going to weigh the MH this afternoon
RustyMacIntosh 02/07/20 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 95 Bounder 34J--rear leafs--shop recommendation

I was told by one shop, put Firestone bags in the rear. Another said a single leaf--which would be a more harsh ride, but hold the weight better I need to research what others with the F53 frame have done to correct the steering wonder.
RustyMacIntosh 02/07/20 08:22am Class A Motorhomes
95 Bounder 34J--rear leafs--shop recommendation

I took the Bounder to a shop yesterday to have the front end aligned. It was not far off, but it did need a bit of adjustment. RF tire was at 120psi. The front axle is tight. No issues. KYB up front, Bilsteins in the rear. The overhang is a concern. That rear swing.The overhang is a concern. That rear swing. Shop recommended that I have them add extra leaf spring in the rear to bring the back end up higher. Fleetwood in their ultimate decision to put such a long extension on the frameset the ball in motion back in the late 90's. My quote was about $1300 or so. The question is why can't we do what we did as kids. Add shackles. Raise the rear up by adding longer shackles? I am going to talk to a spring shop today about building me several leaves, then have my regular man put the leaves in the rear, if I go that way. The shop I was at yesterday does brakes and big rig front alignments. They had several Class A pushers in there doing brakes, they seem to be competent. But I have a local shop that does most of my automotive work. It is just getting 34ft Motorhome in and around into his shop and business. So what do you all think? The shop yesterday said by getting the backend up higher and more weight on the front suspension, it might drive better without being pushed around by large trucks as they pass me. Bounder from a distance in Paso Robles California last week.
RustyMacIntosh 02/07/20 05:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Update on the Onan Marquis 5000 generator

Found this parts manual. Page 19 item 46 Parts manual Pricey little things! Amazon I know, the 5500 was cheap my 5000 is $$$$$ But it is what it I order it
RustyMacIntosh 02/04/20 08:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Update on the Onan Marquis 5000 generator Pix of the generator Generator label
RustyMacIntosh 02/04/20 07:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Update on the Onan Marquis 5000 generator

Do you have the Onan part number? What is model number of genset including the Spec letter? Amazon has many Onan parts: Carb 5BGMFA26105F H953416019
RustyMacIntosh 02/04/20 07:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Update on the Onan Marquis 5000 generator

what I did was put in another fuel pump, the Carter pump is in a box in the back of my C-Max. I put in a fuel pump from Napa. Eldabrock I think. It is grounded to the frame, the red to that white wire that comes from what looks like a starter solenoid way up behind the Genset, the new pump was overpowering the float in the carb which is probably worn out anyway. So I installed another aftermarket product, a universal fuel regulator off my boat, to tone down the pressure to the carb. I know I am in for a carb replacement. When I had that carb off in my hands, I did not remove the bowl. It is black and looks plastic.
RustyMacIntosh 02/04/20 06:54am Class A Motorhomes
Update on the Onan Marquis 5000 generator

This is a factory installed Onan in my gifted 96 Bounder. The coach sat for a long time in storage. It was occasionally used. Then gifted to me by the adopted kids girlfriend and her family. So after 4000 miles of tooling around California working the bugs out of the coach, ie, tires, shocks, brakes, suspension, the generator has always been a PITA. I've had that carb off countless times douching it with Seafoam. Never did I force the black bowl off at the bottom of the carb. It would run, then surge then die. Sometimes within 10 minutes sometimes after hours. So determined to figure this out, and not wishing to drop a grand at the dealer, the other night it was running then quit. I immediately pulled the fuel line and cranked the starter. NO FUEL. The fuel pump was removed. Attached to the old style Carter fuel pump was this gas regulator. It had 2 black wires attached to it. I went to the dealer to see what a new carb would run. ($400). That regulator might have had something to do with LP gas. Not sure. Parts guy was clueless. The service guy told me to go to NAPA buy an aftermarket pump, install it, see what happens. I did. The gen ran but was being overpowered by the flow. Black smoke and gas coming from the air filter housing. I squeezed off the line, choking off the fuel flow it smoothed out and ran. I then installed an old school universal fuel regulator. I dialed it down to 1. Gen sat and ran. 2-3 hours it ran. Only once did it hickup. So I still need a carb, but for now it seems to be running enough that in the mornings we can perk a coffee pot, then go back to battery and gas. I was told that a rebuild kit is available for this unit, but I would rather just drop a new carb on this unit. So far, all I see online is $350ish or so. I might, within a day or two after running the generator for a while to see how it likes the Eldebrock electric fuel pump, go for a new carb. I think I might have bought the wrong pump that runs 4-7lbs. I should have paid more attention to the selection, I should have bought the low low powered pump but this universal regulator seems to be working. Of course, an extension cord to the side door, the suitcase Harbor Freight 2k generator connected is always an option...but it's all about coffee in the mornings.... coffee...once there is fresh coffee....then life begins.
RustyMacIntosh 02/04/20 06:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Towing a 2640lb 16ft TT with a Ford Ranger 4.0L?

My oldest son has a VW Tourag V-10 diesel. It has something like 500lbs of torque or close to it. The key to that SUV is not to break it. While the engine is a marvel of technology, to replace the alternator the engine and trans have to be removed. BUT, it tows a huge Airstream with ease and gets decent mileage.
RustyMacIntosh 01/09/20 04:42am Travel Trailers
RE: Towing a 2640lb 16ft TT with a Ford Ranger 4.0L?

I've towed many times my 19ft Mallard with my 99, and 01 Exploder 4x4 4.0's. That being said... The 4.0' have a fault with the rear timing chain and cassette. I'm told that #3 runs hot thus it burns the cassette up. The fix is pop the motor out, do QUALITY chains and cassettes, disable the front balancer chain (common on the 4x4's) run synthetic oil from then on. As for the trans. On my 01, it has 206k on that trans, the engine is 40k with 2k on the chains. I installed the upgrade valve body on the bottom of the trans. It made a world of difference. Of course, if you are running a stick, then this point is moot. If you are running an automatic, put an additional cooler on AFTER the factory cooler. If you can swing it, then put electric temp gauge somewhere either on the pan, the lines or the pressure test plug on the side of the trans. I see no more than 210 deg on a hard heavy pull fully loaded on a 90d day... The transfer case. Synthetic oil that too with the emulsifier oil added in. The rears are actually very strong. But swap the oil out for synthetic, which takes abuse and heat better. 2600 is nothing. I am tipping close if not over 5000#. Two weeks ago we took the trailer with the 99 Exploder up over the Grapevine, into Frasier Park then over to 166 to 101 in California. There are some heavy hills. Nothing like Colorado. But I did pull the trailer twice with the 99 and the 01 from the floor of Yosemite WB on 41 thru the tunnels up to top then down to the valley. That pull is no joke, but we kept the Ford in 2nd and 3rd all the way, outta OD, the coolant temp ran 210 once in a while, mostly 205ish, temp on the trans ran 210. Brakes wise, I upgraded to larger thicker rotors. With metallic pads. The suspension is KYB on one and Bielston on the other. The poor 4.0 has a reputation. Deserved from a design flaw that can be corrected. Mine are. I have no issues. And guess what?? We have hella fun, and not making those huge strokes monthly on a hemi or a power stroke or likewise, and the Fords do the job. I am a firm believer of making due with what you got. While the prevailing thought is to buy a $50k tow rig, some folks have deep pockets. Mine are full. And I plan on keeping them full. At the campsites in Yosemite, I have had many a Scamp owner using lets say a Tacoma towing, wonder by inquiring about my 1/4 million mile Fords. We were at Truckee last spring when a guy came by chastising us for what he said, making the roads unsafe by using too light of a tow rig. I offered to buy him a beer and send him on his way. In the FWIIW catagory, last week we were on the coast of Cal, from SLO up to Monterey on Highway 1. This time with the 2wd 01. What was on my tail the whole way? A SMART car towing a small tent trailer, behind her was a Ford peeekup with a huge cruise ship 5th wheel. At one turnout, they all pulled in behind me to let the tourist in rented Mustangs get by us, and to take a leak, and to let the dogs take a leak, the Ford truck asked me if I had a gallon of oil he could buy.....I gave him a gallon of Walmart dino 10-40 which seemed to make him happy. The SMART car owner, while not my type, was a gutsy lady. She likes her SMART, and wanted to go camping. They said it could not be done, she does it. And has been for a year or more. She readily admitted that while going up a grade she might be down in the gears, her rig gets a whole lotta attention, and I must add, I was impressed too.
RustyMacIntosh 01/04/20 08:02am Travel Trailers
RE: WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle

Swapped the EZ Lift knockoff with a Reese unit in Santa Maria. Rather than the bars and chains, this unit is a square straight bar from the hitch to the tongue of the trailer. First few miles heading NB on 101 I noticed less porpoising of the Suburban. I still feel trucks and larger vehicles as they come up behind me. Heading down to Santa Barb the wind was blowing pretty hard there near the rest areas. It all seems very stable. Getting back to SLO then up to Big Sur then into Carmel, rather than to go over to 68 I went up Carmel Valley then took Los Laureles grade over to over to Laguna Seca where I have rental property to check on. I sorta like this setup better than the chains and bars. My old unit was creaking and groaning a whole lot lately, probably that friction brake from HB. It went into the junk bin at the dealer in Santa Maria,. Even though I have a MH 34f given to me by my adopted kid, this Mallard is what I used extensively. While in Santa Maria--- Vintage, I spec'd out a 20 ft Fleetwood generic with slide-outs on both sides. While the trailer stays under 22ft, those slideouts are cool. My Mallard is old school heavy. This was a fiberglass and aluminum built. Then I wandered over to look at Airstreams.....I ah, wandered back to my Suburban.... Who knows I might retire the Mallard. I'll wave to you when I come by 156 transitioning to 101 NB. I cruized down NMain past the old high school. How this town has changed in 40 years... but gotta love those rent checks!
RustyMacIntosh 12/20/19 06:24am Travel Trailers
RE: WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle

im in a very windy area right now, Fraser Park heading west to 166 then up to Monterey (chkin on rentals in Toro and SB). The wind is fierce. Gusts. When I get to Santa Maria I am going to swap the hitch unit from this EZ Lift, and get a better friction brake, this HB is not quality,
RustyMacIntosh 12/17/19 10:51am Travel Trailers
RE: WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle

I cranked the chains back to #4 from 5 after a 250 mile drive yesterday. The TV is now pretty much level, the trailer seems level too but I have not had it on solid ground level ground since I am in the mountains I prefered the 4 links over the 5. Next week I am going to a dealer on the coast to look at another brand of WB and such, maybe just the square bars vs the bars and chain. I know it is very windy today, the trailer is moving the Suburban around a bit. I had it all weighed also, 7200 Suburban and 4900 trailer. I might drop the hitch down one more notch but leave the bars alone. But first...COFFEE! Gotta love free Shorepower--!
RustyMacIntosh 12/17/19 05:53am Travel Trailers
RE: WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle

Its all level now, and I dropped the link to 5 from 4. The trailer sits a bit lower in the front, but tomorrow will be the test, when I go over the Grapevine then to Santa Barbara.
RustyMacIntosh 12/15/19 06:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle

Hmmmm, I'm high on the trailer by maybe 4 inches and level on the tow vehicle, let me loosen the bars today, I am going over the Grapevine tomorrow morn, the road is rough, (ty State of Confusion for your wonderful tax money expenditure), let me play with the bars a bit. I might have the receiver hitch a bit high too. I can bring it down one notch, maybe that will level things out a bit.
RustyMacIntosh 12/15/19 08:59am Travel Trailers
WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle

I am using a vintage Suburban 4x4 towing a 19f Mallard around seeing the kids and sights. My Suburban is a k1500. 16" tires. The hitch is a 10k hitch installed after-the-fact when we bought it last century. I think tow capacity is 6000 on this unit. Not sure. The Vortex is built, the trans is built as is the transfer case. No powerhouse but runs 10mpg all day long at 60. I swapped over to a Harbor Freight WD bars and connectors on the trailer tongue. But still using the old EZ Lift receiver. Previous bars were much lighter than the HF ones, (I got a killer deal so I bought them). These bars and chains are much heavier than the previous setup, plus those bars were over 20 years old if not more. RV guy in another high end unit approached me the other day. He said when I came in the parking lot he saw that I had my bars on the trailer way too tight. He said his experience told him to tell me to lower the links down by at least one maybe two. He said I am risking a chance of riping the chains off the trailer mounts by having the bars so tight. I thanked him, went on. OK...previous setup the Suburban would sit a bit down in the back when connected. But the trailer was level. The new HB setup, I have the links at #4. The Suburban is level, the trailer is slightly up end, higher in the front than back on level ground. Just a bit, but not level and not noticeable unless you look at it carefully. I did not notice any difference between either setup. When I was putting the new bars on, I did make the setup tighter than before. So, what is the standard rule of thumb? The Suburban is heavy. Probably in excess of 6500 then add all my stuff, two dogs and a computer I bet it is beyond that. The trailer is said to be about 4k empty. I am far from empty. I am loaded heavy. Food, water, stuff I bring along, including a spare generator, I am sure I am tipping over 5k. When I get a chance I am going to weigh the whole setup just for curiosity's sake. 13k maybe a bit more. So what is the rule for setting up the WD bars. I also have a slide brake which really does keep the sway down when a big rig comes flying up behind and passes you.
RustyMacIntosh 12/15/19 06:57am Travel Trailers
RE: Roof: Not leaking, but 20 yrs old

For the time being, I am holding off. At Lowes there was a 2nd product that was twice as expensive as Henry, RED DEVIL (???) $230 bucks a 5-gallon container. The adage that you get what you pay for?? I think I might contact a few companies that say they re-seal roofs. While mine is not leaking, it IS 20 years old. I want it done once and right.
RustyMacIntosh 12/11/19 06:03am Travel Trailers
RE: Roof: Not leaking, but 20 yrs old

General wear and tear. Nothing more. We had some rain last week, there was some chalk residue in the rain runoff. Nothing more than that. The man at Lowes said that the Henry roof sealant had to be put on when we have sun for 24 hours. Right now we are into the fog season, no sun. No leaks either.
RustyMacIntosh 12/10/19 05:39am Travel Trailers
RE: Roof: Not leaking, but 20 yrs old

In Googling (actually I use DuckGoGo) I see both Lowes and HomeD have Eternabond and sealant. I'm heading out soon to both locations to look for supplies. The roof I have no idea what it is. It is NOT leaking, But after 20 yrs and constant use, I think it is time to do some preventative work on it.
RustyMacIntosh 12/09/19 08:36am Travel Trailers
Roof: Not leaking, but 20 yrs old

1999 Mallard 19ft travel trailer. I use it frequently. I was installing a rear camera when I got a closeup look at the roof. While it is not leaking, I got to thinking maybe it is time to shore it up, Lowes/HomeDepot sell that while goop stuff that comes in a large can. Can I smear that stuff over the existing roof? What about using something like FlexTape then smear the goop over the roof. Let's say around the edges, and near the AC and vents. What suggestions on a better way or to proceed? I am taking the trailer from CenCal to Kansas in or late mid-January 21 for some business with the courts, lawyers, trust,,,I sorta kinda would like the roof to be solid. I am sure I probably will encounter some rough weather while in Medicine Lodge. Luckily the Suburban tower is 4x4. I just feel that after 20 years I might be well advised to treat the roof of the trailer before taking off.
RustyMacIntosh 12/09/19 06:41am Travel Trailers
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