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 > Your search for posts made by 'SJ-Chris' found 74 matches.

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RE: Calling on Solar Techies

I installed a Aili battery monitor. (it'similar to the Renogy monitor) It asks for the total ah's in the battery bank (340). It uses this as a base when calculating +/- ah's. Assuming you never want to completely drain the batteries to 0 ah's should I put in the total amount assuming the monitor takes this into account or half the total ah's? I have the same battery monitor (Aili). You want to program it to your TOTAL AH, not 50%. If you set it to 50% it will cause a problem if you ever get to "0%" and keep discharging. The problem is this.... Once the meter gets to 0% it will not go any lower (it won't go negative). So let's assume at that point your SOC is at 50% (and your monitor says 0%). Well....let's say that it's the middle of the night when this happens and you've got your furnace blasting, etc and you end up draining another 20% of your battery bank (...not likely in your case, but just for illustrative purposes). So now your SOC is actually at 30% (and your monitor still says 0%). Once you start charging, your monitor will immediately start going up from 0%. Let's say you charge it all the way back up to what the monitor says is 100% full and you stop. Since you actually started at 30% SOC and not 50% SOC your batteries are really only at 80% SOC even though your monitor says 100%. This problem doesn't happen if you program your Aili monitor to show 100% of your battery bank's AHs instead of just half. Hope that makes sense. With this monitor (and I suppose most monitors), anytime you truly charge the battery bank back up to 100% (ie. hooked up to shore power for a few days, or if you have solar and park it for storage with everything powered off), then your monitor is once again synced up to what is truly 100% fully charged. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/24/21 11:35am Tech Issues
RE: Electrical gremlins

Try this.... Shore power unplugged. Turn on your RV engine. With the engine running, the chassis alternator should be providing a large amount of voltage and amps to your batteries. Then see if those things that weren't working are now working. If they are, then it seems like there is an issue with your house batteries. -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/24/21 11:17am Tech Issues
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Cruise America trickle charger specs....in case anyone has wondered... CA has these trickle charger solar panels usually mounted on top of the roof AC unit. I have two Majestic 28a units that I bought from Cruise America. On one of them, the solar trickle charger works. On the other one, it doesn't (it has been cut/destroyed). Side note: I was told by the sales rep that when they are refurbishing the units prior to selling them, they usually cut the solar line and also the backup sensors built into the bumper. I was told they do this because it is faster for them to complete the exterior refurbishment process. It is a shame that they do that as those would be nice features. Regarding the solar trickle charger, I was told that sometimes they cut them sometimes they don't. On one of my units, it works as expected. I sure do like the fact that my coach batteries are always getting trickled while in storage (....I HATE dead/low batteries!). On one of my other units, the trickle solar has been disconnected/destroyed. I removed it today as part of a 500w solar install. In case any of you are curious (...I was), here is what that panel is doing for you if you happen to have one that works.... https://i.imgur.com/EV8nExEl.jpg Looks like it would provide maybe 2-4 amp hours of charging per day. I have a battery monitor in my RV and I see that there is about .12 amps leaking even when I have everything off (...I know about half of that is due to the propane/carbon monoxide detector). So that means that in a day's time it will leak about 2.5AH. So the trickle charger is just enough to combat that, assuming you've got some sunshine. Soon both of my RVs will have solar. I just installed two 250w panels today. Got them from Santan Solar in Arizona for $35/panel :) Hope to finish up the wiring in the next few days. https://i.imgur.com/WJOTCR4l.jpg Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/23/21 02:02am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

*** Power Surge Protection *** I hear a lot of people who encourage buying/using a surge protector when plugged in at campgrounds. Cost ~$200. I suspect that most people do NOT have/use surge protectors, but that is just based on my observations. What I hardly ever hear is people talking about damage to their electrical system due to an electrical surge. So it makes me wonder if it is really a big issue or not. Specifically, as it pertains to Cruise America former rental units....I wonder something... Cruise America sends out 1000s and 1000s of renters every year and NOT ONE of them has a surge protector! Why not? Is it because in reality they aren't needed? Do you think Cruise America has their RVs built with some sort of built-in surge protection?? Do GFCI circuits protect against surges?? Just want to hear the thoughts of other CA formal rental owners... Is there a single Former Rental unit Owner out there who, without using a surge protector, has had a power surge that damaged their RV's electrical system/components? Honestly, I don't even mind buying one and using one for myself. BUT, I often times let others (family/etc) use my Majestics and I know they will either forget to use it, or lose it, etc. Thoughts? -Chris Surge protection is fine BUT you are not protected from "brown outs" which is low voltage. The damage done by undervoltage can be considerable. I brought and fitted a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C (or EMS-HW50C for 50 A supplies) Not cheap but peace of mind should say the fridge get fried or anything else. I fitted it in our Rv between the shore supply and main panel and this also proteceted me against a generator fault. Surge Protection: 3-Mode / 1,790J / 44,000A. Ratings: 30A / 120V / 3,600W. Includes 14' Data Cable Open Ground, Open Neutral and Reverse Polarity detection and protection, Over/Under voltage Protection, Accidental 240V Protection and A/C Frequency Protection Miswired pedestal indication and surge failure indicator; Time Delay (136 seconds) Remote Scrolling Digital Display scrolls continuously through the power source information One time it picked up that the campsite socket did not have correct earth protection, which the owner then called in an electrician to fix. If you can wire a plug then you can fit this yourself. Just cut the main supply cable going into the main panel and insert this unit :) Good suggestion (hardwiring it). That way, it will be used 100% of the time (even by inexperienced or careless users) and it also won't get stolen or lost. I see this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/PROGRESSIVE-INDUSTRIES-HW30C-Hardwired-Electrical/dp/B004A32CGI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=30%2Bamp%2Bpower%2Bmanagement%2BRV&qid=1614068354&sr=8-1&th=1 Looks like it has a built in display. Perhaps this could be wired in the rear of the compartment that houses the shore power plug and generator junction box. Then every time you plug in you could just glance into that compartment and see the readout and make sure it says all is good (E0)... Question: From reading the description on Amazon, it looks like if it detects over or under voltage it will shut off until the power is once again within the proper range. But what about other problems that it detects?? (like reverse polarity or an open ground) Does it still allow power into your rig? Or does it act as a circuit breaker and not allow the power to pass?? What happens if there is a surge? Does it shut down? For installation, Can you simply cut the power cord and splice in this controller? Seems pretty simple actually... -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/23/21 01:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

While checking the interior of my 2015 Majestic 28a last week I heard beeping and discovered it was my dual carbon monoxide / propane gas alarm. Upon closer inspection, the flashing lights indicated the unit had reached the end of its useful life and needed replacing. An inscription on the face plate also directed the device be replaced after 5 years of service. Just an FYI for other former rental owners to be aware. Cost to replace is appproximately $75. I bought mine online through Camping World with a $15 coupon. I had the same thing happen to mine,my RV was a bit over 4 years old when I purchased it,The propane detector failed about a year after my purchase, it was just a bit over 6 years old according to the MFG Date. I replaced it and then just a few months ago I hear that same beep again,checked and sure enough it was my Propane alarm failure beep and flashing light. I pulled it out and checked the MFG Date,it was 5 years and 2 months old,talk about planned failure. I also replaced mine from Camping World.For me I went to the store and checked it before I bought it,its MFG Date was only 1 month old,I suggest checking that to make sure that you didn't get a old one. A link to the one you bought might be very helpful to other owners of a Majestic 28A. Thanks for coming back and alerting others of this! I had the same issue with one of my two 2015 Majestic 28a units (beeping detector)... I decided to replace the propane and carbon detector on both my units because they clearly state that they are only good for 5 years. Important to note: There are different form factors (sizes) for different 28a units. One of my detectors was basically square, while the other was a long rectangle. If you have a 2015 or older cruise america unit you should definitely pull the detector and look at the date and replace as necessary. That detector is a serious safety device you don't want to mess around with. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/20/21 01:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

*** Power Surge Protection *** I hear a lot of people who encourage buying/using a surge protector when plugged in at campgrounds. Cost ~$200. I suspect that most people do NOT have/use surge protectors, but that is just based on my observations. What I hardly ever hear is people talking about damage to their electrical system due to an electrical surge. So it makes me wonder if it is really a big issue or not. Specifically, as it pertains to Cruise America former rental units....I wonder something... Cruise America sends out 1000s and 1000s of renters every year and NOT ONE of them has a surge protector! Why not? Is it because in reality they aren't needed? Do you think Cruise America has their RVs built with some sort of built-in surge protection?? Do GFCI circuits protect against surges?? Just want to hear the thoughts of other CA formal rental owners... Is there a single Former Rental unit Owner out there who, without using a surge protector, has had a power surge that damaged their RV's electrical system/components? Honestly, I don't even mind buying one and using one for myself. BUT, I often times let others (family/etc) use my Majestics and I know they will either forget to use it, or lose it, etc. Thoughts? -Chris Cruise America....the largest RV renter in the world(?)....sends out 1000s and 1000s of inexperienced RVers every year plugging in to every campsite imaginable, and not one of them goes out with a surge protector. If it was an issue that happened on any regularity, it seems like they would have surge protectors built into their Majestics (....I'm guessing if you buy 1000 RVs from Thor you could likely have them install a built in surge protector for much less than the $200-250 it would cost to buy one off the shelf). The fact that they don't seems to indicate it's not a problem, right? Just for fun, I just called CA rentals and asked them about the need for surge protectors if I'm renting one of their units. The person didn't even know what I was talking about, and said nobody has ever asked about the need for surge protection before when renting. Yes, it's anecdotal but thought it was interesting. It certainly can't hurt to use a surge protector...just not sure if it is really needed. Maybe another way of looking at this is risk vs cost... Let's assume the cost of a decent surge protector (aka power manager/hookup) is $250. What are the ODDS that you are going to have your electronics fried due to bad power or a surge at a campsite if not using your surge protector? 1 in 10? 1 in 100? Let's call it 1 in 50. (I personally don't know a single person that it's happened to, but I don't know that many RVers). Then let's take a guess at what the "cost" would be associated with bad power or a surge... Blown AC/Microwave/Fridge motherboard/TV/DVD/Converter? I'm just trying to think of all the major 120v electrical items in a typical Former Rental. If you had to replace ALL of those items it would likely cost you $3000-$5000. Let's assume that on average you wouldn't even need to replace ALL of your electronics and let's say half of them get blown. So you are looking at an expense of ~$2000. If the odds of that happening are 1 in 50, then paying $250 for the surge protector doesn't seem like the right thing to do if you are just going by a risk vs cost analysis. Maybe this is inherently why most RVers do not bother with a surge protector? Thoughts? Note: As a Former Rental owner, we are talking about fairly basic RVs that only cost $25,000 - $40,000 to purchase/outfit. If I owned a $100,000 or $250,000 RV with WAY more expensive electrical stuff that could get damaged then it would be a no-brainer to get a great surge protector/power management hookup. This discussion is as it pertains to Formal Rental units which is why I posted it here to hear people's thoughts. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/17/21 02:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

*** Power Surge Protection *** I hear a lot of people who encourage buying/using a surge protector when plugged in at campgrounds. Cost ~$200. I suspect that most people do NOT have/use surge protectors, but that is just based on my observations. What I hardly ever hear is people talking about damage to their electrical system due to an electrical surge. So it makes me wonder if it is really a big issue or not. Specifically, as it pertains to Cruise America former rental units....I wonder something... Cruise America sends out 1000s and 1000s of renters every year and NOT ONE of them has a surge protector! Why not? Is it because in reality they aren't needed? Do you think Cruise America has their RVs built with some sort of built-in surge protection?? Do GFCI circuits protect against surges?? Just want to hear the thoughts of other CA formal rental owners... Is there a single Former Rental unit Owner out there who, without using a surge protector, has had a power surge that damaged their RV's electrical system/components? Honestly, I don't even mind buying one and using one for myself. BUT, I often times let others (family/etc) use my Majestics and I know they will either forget to use it, or lose it, etc. Thoughts? -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/17/21 12:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help identify leaking engine part (pic)

Update.... So I drove the front end of my RV up onto some leveling blocks to give me a couple more inches to crawl around. I was able to discover that the leak wasn't actually coming from the power steering pump (...which makes sense, because I haven't been losing any power steering fluid). I was able to look further up on one of the hoses coming in and I could see that the leak was coming from the upper radiator hose (right at a clamp). I applied a pressure test on the radiator and sure enough, it was leaking right at the hose connection. I was able to get a socket onto the hose clamp screw-head and was able to give it several turns to tighten. I tightened a couple of other hose clamps underneath and ran the pressure test again. Those leaks all stopped! There is a tiny tiny radiator leak I'm still investigating. For now, I feel much better. Thanks all for your suggestions and input. -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/11/21 09:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Help identify leaking engine part (pic)

Looks like the pressed in return line connector for the power steering. I would use some power steering leak stop, before tearing it apart. I believe now this is the power steering pump. How safe is power steering leak stop to use? Is there any risk to damaging anything else by using this type of product (will it gunk up anything else???) If I have to replace the power steering pump, any idea how much that would run me (ballpark)? Just trying to figure out if it is an easy job or hard (time consuming) job for a mechanic. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/11/21 02:07pm Tech Issues
Help identify leaking engine part (pic)

I've got a slow leak underneath my engine. This is on a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a with a Ford e450 Superduty v10. Here is a picture of the part (circled in yellow) and where it appears to be leaking (circled in red). It is taken from underneath the vehicle. https://i.imgur.com/TrikwEcl.jpg Can you tell me what part this is? If I trace a hose going into it, it looks like the hose is coming from the power steering fluid reserve tank. After driving for a couple miles to warm it up, and then parking with the engine off, I see 1 drip about every 30 seconds or minute. Figured some of you experts out there will be able to tell me what this is, and what the likely repair will need to be. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/11/21 01:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Red blinking lights on microwave

Wait...if you have the owner's manual, and the owner's manual says that the blinking red icons are normal, then I'm a bit confused why you posted the question in the first place????? *I* do not have the owner's manual. You can see in the thread above that someone else posted a link to an owner's manual. I looked there and saw what it says. Hope that helps. -Chris
SJ-Chris 02/10/21 05:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Red blinking lights on microwave

I have a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a. It has a Whirlpool microwave in it (...I couldn't find the model #). When it is running, it has these red blinking lights. Seems to heat up just fine and doesn't make any unusual noises. Does anyone know what they mean? I'm not sure exactly what model you have, but I found an owners manual for a similar looking microwave, and it includes this diagram: https://i.imgur.com/NjTo1WN.png I can't make out the red indicator on the left on your photo, but by position, that appears to be the "Microwaves" icon, which I think just means that oven is operating. The one on the right looks like the "high power" icon. THANK YOU!! What a pleasant surprise....According to the owner's manual, these blinking red icons are NORMAL. (...Can anyone think of any other blinking red lights in life that are a good sign?? LOL...) Yes, the icon in my photo on the left appears to match the owner's manual for "Microwaves" and it is supposed to blink when in operation. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/07/21 02:21am Tech Issues
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

I have a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a from Cruise America (two actually). I recently completed a Dicor roof resealing project on it. Before starting on it, I wanted to confirm exactly what type of roof was on it. It was suggested that I could remove one of my interior vent trims and see some of the material to know if it was EDPM or TPO. (check youtube) Unfortunately, when I tried, there was ZERO material visible. When I bought my RVs from Cruise America, they made a big deal saying that their roofs are something special, so I was worried that perhaps they weren't EDPM or TPO but rather something else. I wanted to make sure it was okay to use the Dicor EDPM/TPO roofing material. I read online somewhere (maybe even in this thread) that someone mentioned it was TPO. But I didn't want to believe just one person posting online to make my decision (no offense), because if it was wrong it could be bad news. Well....it took many many calls to multiple Cruise Americas to get the answer. They told me that on the 2015 Majestic it uses a TPO roof. Interestingly, they said that their 2020 model (not sure about future models) is EDPM. Just wanted to throw this out into the universe as it was much more difficult for me to find this answer and I'm hoping someone else finds it useful. Happy RVing! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/06/21 10:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RV roof sealing project

RV roof sealing project I finally got around to my RV roof sealing project. This is for a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a (Cruise America purchase). The roof itself didn’t really seem like it needed to be resealed, but all the vents and seams in front, back, and the sides were starting to have some cracking. I actually had several gallons of Dicor Roof Sealant (and the Step 1 agitator) so I decided to do the complete job. I’m also planning on putting up some solar panels on this RV soon, so I figured now was a good time to redo the roof so that I wouldn’t need to worry about it for a very long time (and would likely never need to remove the solar panels later). Note: The small solar panel on top of the AC is a trickle charger, but it is disconnected. I'll be adding 500w soon. Here are some “before” pictures… https://i.imgur.com/0iq4Ll2l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7Sj6Ylvl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nAh0Zswl.jpg I started with Step 1 in the Dicor process…the cleaner/agitator. I thought this was going to be a PITA to do properly (taping off and plastic around the entire RV), but it ended up not being too bad. I actually did this at a local self-serve car wash with their high pressure sprayer. Took me about 2 hours to complete. https://i.imgur.com/9TBy1Bjl.jpg The cleaner/agitator and the pressure washer did a great job. https://i.imgur.com/fHIFOQal.jpg There were a few days in between cleaning/agitating and when I could actually apply the roof sealant, but the RV was covered during that time. When I finally had time (and the weather cooperated), I taped off the edges of the RV and got started. I called and spoke with someone at Dicor to ask if I should first use lap sealant to cover the cracks. They told me that the roof coating will fill in all the cracks nicely (it is kind of like a thick paint) and if the final result looked good then no additional lap sealant would be needed. I first put a thick coat around all the edges and existing Dicor on the vents/etc. https://i.imgur.com/GVH7SsAl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Dl6LbRcl.jpg Then I applied the Dicor to the entire roof with a roller. I let it dry to the touch (about 1.5 hours) and then I put on a 2nd coat, and then eventually a 3rd coat. In the end, it came out really nicely and I feel completely confident that the cracks are 100% sealed and my roof is good to go. Here are some “after” pics. https://i.imgur.com/U3c0KCdl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ThLZJTml.jpg https://i.imgur.com/7qsVW95l.jpg I was trying to lay it on pretty thick, but the total job only used 2 gallons of roof sealant. I even had a little left over so I touched up all my vents/etc on another RV that I have with one coat just for extra protection. There is something strangely satisfying to have a “new” white, clean roof. It will make installing the solar more enjoyable too. Happy RVing! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/06/21 09:44pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Red blinking lights on microwave

I have a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a. It has a Whirlpool microwave in it (...I couldn't find the model #). When it is running, it has these red blinking lights. https://i.imgur.com/jnI8evMl.jpg Seems to heat up just fine and doesn't make any unusual noises. Does anyone know what they mean? Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/06/21 08:51pm Tech Issues
Folding driver side mirror....

(This is for a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C) When driving on the freeway AND into wind or a gust, my driver side mirror is folding at the pivot arm. Seems like there should be a tension adjustment somewhere, but I don't see an obvious point of access. https://i.imgur.com/Aj1ReXel.jpg There is a little cap underneath the pivot joint that is removable. When I remove it I see this written on it: "Do Not Remove This Cover - No Serviceable Parts Inside" lol... Sure enough, there is nothing in there. Any ideas on how to tighten the tension?? There IS a head of some sort of screw/bolt at the very end of the arm (under the mirror itself). To me, that looked like something associated with how the mirror is connected to the arm as opposed to something that would be associated with the tension of the pivot point closest to the vehicle. Let me know if any of you have info on this. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 02/04/21 06:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

So far the information and opinions on the extended insurance have been straightforward and honest. So I will add this,of the more than 130 members here on this thread there have been no reports of any CA units that have had an engine,transmission or generator failure. I did find on 2 occasions that El Monte RV did honor their warranty This One and Here They both happened in the Warranty period that was given to them when they bought the unit,not an extended warranty. FWIW, my sales contact at El Monte told me, when I asked about drive train extended warranties, that they used to offer them, through the same company that CA uses. The reason they stopped, and just went with offering their own 12/12 power train warranty, is that he wasn't aware of any case in which the extended warranty company actually paid on a claim - which, of course, made for unhappy customers. I have two 28a Majestics from Cruise America. I use them a lot and will likely put 100,000 miles on them over the next 5 years. When I bought the first one, they offered me a 5-year 100,000 mile warranty on the Powertrain (engine, transmission, drive axle, water pump). It cost $1700 (or $1800, I can't remember). My thinking was, "Well, the unit already has 120,000 miles on it...I'm betting that over the next 100,000 miles *something* is going to happen that will be covered and it will cost MORE than $1700". Another important thing....with how I'm using the RVs, there is a good chance that in 5 year's time I will actually put on 100,000 miles. That last part I think is KEY. If you are like most RV owners, you will probably put only 2000-5000 miles per year on your RV. Then, maybe the warranty isn't as worthwhile because the chances of failure definitely goes down. But in my case, I felt it was worthwhile for the above reasons AND the peace of mind. Now.......with all that being said, I did learn something. On this CA RV with the warranty my exhaust manifold started leaking after about 15000 miles. If you've had that happen before, you know the familiar and LOUD rumble sound... It is common for BOLTS to rust/corrode and break off (there are 10 bolts that hold the manifold together). When I read the fine print, and called the warranty company, and asked my mechanic to investigate, I noticed in the warranty it specifically says it doesn't cover anything related to bolts breaking! Ugh. That meant this repair wasn't covered. In order to do the repair, my mechanic had to pull the engine so they could get at all the bolts to tap them and get them all out (several had broken off). As long as he was doing all that, I had him change out EVERYTHING that made sense as long as he had the engine pulled. A long list of things, that hopefully now I won't have to worry about for years to come. The total bill was over $8000. I took it in stride and don't let these things get me down. But it was unfortunate that it wasn't covered under the warranty. And all that being said....I still am glad I have the warranty that I bought. I've got another 4 years and ~80000 miles and I'm betting there will be something else that ends up breaking and hopefully when it does it will be covered. -Chris
SJ-Chris 01/29/21 01:39am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solar trickle charger for chassis battery......Good or bad?

Are you going to use this on the RVs that will soon have solar? If so I recommend a Trik-L-Start combiner instead. For the RVs with solar, I'm going to order this: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Ultra-Trik-L-Start-p/tls-oem.htm 5amp seems like plenty for the chassis battery, right? There is a 10amp version that costs twice as much, but that seems like overkill to me. If this is hooked up to my RV with solar, it seems like it would be able to steal a few amps per hour if needed for the chassis battery and that should be PLENTY to keep it fully charged. Am I missing anything here? Thanks! Chris PS: RV tinkering is addictive..... Ugh! I can't find the 5amp version anywhere online. Did they discontinue it? Let me know if you know where to find the 5amp version. Otherwise, I'll have to go with the 10amp version that is twice as much. Thanks! -Chris
SJ-Chris 01/27/21 01:51am Tech Issues
RE: Solar trickle charger for chassis battery......Good or bad?

An interesting word of caution about the Trik-L-Start device..... https://artontherun.art/2015/11/25/trik-l-start-a-word-of-caution/ I hadn't thought about that...
SJ-Chris 01/27/21 01:50am Tech Issues
RE: Solar trickle charger for chassis battery......Good or bad?

Are you going to use this on the RVs that will soon have solar? If so I recommend a Trik-L-Start combiner instead. For the RVs with solar, I'm going to order this: https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Ultra-Trik-L-Start-p/tls-oem.htm 5amp seems like plenty for the chassis battery, right? There is a 10amp version that costs twice as much, but that seems like overkill to me. If this is hooked up to my RV with solar, it seems like it would be able to steal a few amps per hour if needed for the chassis battery and that should be PLENTY to keep it fully charged. Am I missing anything here? Thanks! Chris PS: RV tinkering is addictive.....
SJ-Chris 01/27/21 01:30am Tech Issues
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