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RE: Heavy Class C Tire thoughts

"With E rated tires (which is what the manufacturer recommends), if the rear axle is at max load there is very little extra weight margin and my opinion is that the tires are being stressed" Wait a sec. Are you saying the actual rear axle weight on the scales is enough to max out the Es? Or are you saying the Es are not enough to meet the rear GAWR of the C? What is the rear scale weight for that C as loaded for camping and what PSI do they want on the door label ? Yes! I will have to dig up the actual numbers (or someone else will and post them here...), but if you are at the max weight rating of the rear axle and the E load rated tires are at their proper inflation (80psi max), there is very little weight buffer. Yes, I understand that you should not be above your Max axle weight limit to begin with. But most people don't routinely (or ever) weigh their RVs fully loaded (ie. full tank of gas, full water tank, full grey/black tanks, full gear, full number of passengers, tow tongue weight if towing something, etc). Then, what happens when you hit bumps, dips, potholes, etc on the road? I don't want to risk it. The Commercial 121/120 rated tires gives an extra ~500lbs per tire weight carrying capacity. x4 gives you 2000lbs of extra buffer. Like I said...I sleep better at night knowing it is there. Side note: A few months ago, I had an inner rear tire go out (stem broke). So just ONE E rated tire was holding the entire weight of that side. I drove about 10 miles without knowing, including about 3 miles on the freeway. Thankfully, it didn't blow. I guess they are pretty tough. But still...I'll go with the Commercial 121/120 load tires just to be safe. Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 09/30/21 03:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solar install so far

PS: Isn't solar addictive?? YES! I had read and even commented on your post while I was planning for solar. It was very helpful. Thanks. I finally finished my mounting system and wiring and camped last weekend in a very quiet campground. We were not the only ones not using a generator! It was sweet to use the inverter for morning coffee and toast bread for lunch sandwiches. I experimented running the refrigerator on the inverter before we left and I only got 8 hours overnight so we used gas for that. At most we used about 25% of our 200 amps overnight before the sun was charging them again. https://i.imgur.com/wNQQDgvl.jpg I mounted the panels behind the air conditioner bonnet. I didn’t really have enough room further forward. We backed into a north-south facing site. The trees didn’t shade the panels. I’m thrilled that they work so well. How long is your Minnie EMD? From the roof and back, it looks like a 2013 23' Coachman Leprechaun I just picked up recently. I'm in the process of adding all the improvements I want/need. I did just reseal/paint (Dicor) the entire roof (needed it especially around the vents/etc) getting it ready for another SOLAR project...I can't help myself...lol. I love starting with a blank, white, clean canvas on the rooftop. I haven't measured it out yet, but I believe I can get 3 or 4 100w panels up there. That will be plenty for the 200-300AH lead acid batteries. I will use a similar mounting strategy (3M VHB tape plus screws) as my previous installs which seem to be rock solid after 1 year. I'll also add a 1000-2000w inverter, USB charging ports galore, LED lights, new TV/DVD, etc. I just installed today an Aili battery monitor....I think a good and detailed battery monitor is critical (...and fun) to have in the RV. It constantly lets you know the status of your batteries, and what charge/discharge is happening at all times. Enjoy the free power! Chris
SJ-Chris 09/30/21 12:21am Tech Issues
RE: Refer died

My Dometic RM2852 needs to be replaced. Does anyone know what I have to order to replace it that will fit in the same opening? Thanks for your help. I had the same refrigerator on one of my 2015 RVs stop cooling. Here is a great post you definitely should read in it's entirety. It should save you some $$$ and illustrate that it is fairly easy to replace your cooling unit if it is bad. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30167880/srt/pa/pging/1/page/1.cfm Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 09/29/21 01:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Heavy Class C Tire thoughts

On my 30' Class C RVs, I have made the choice to go away from the E rated tires and instead go with Commercial tires with a 121/120 weight rating. I buy my tires from Big-O tires and they don't seem to be any more expensive (~$20 more per tire). With E rated tires (which is what the manufacturer recommends), if the rear axle is at max load there is very little extra weight margin and my opinion is that the tires are being stressed (...especially if they ever end up not being properly inflated). Tires at their max load MUST have a higher chance of a blowout, right? With Commercial 121/120 load rated tires, they give you an extra ~2000lbs of carrying capacity (compared to E rated tires) on your rear axle and I sleep better at night knowing this. I just bought 7 new Commercial rated tires last week for one of my 30' RVs. The tires were $135 each. Personally, I haven't noticed any difference in terms of handling or noise. -Chris
SJ-Chris 09/28/21 06:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solar install so far

PS: Isn't solar addictive?? YES! I had read and even commented on your post while I was planning for solar. It was very helpful. Thanks. I finally finished my mounting system and wiring and camped last weekend in a very quiet campground. We were not the only ones not using a generator! It was sweet to use the inverter for morning coffee and toast bread for lunch sandwiches. I experimented running the refrigerator on the inverter before we left and I only got 8 hours overnight so we used gas for that. At most we used about 25% of our 200 amps overnight before the sun was charging them again. https://i.imgur.com/wNQQDgvl.jpg I mounted the panels behind the air conditioner bonnet. I didn’t really have enough room further forward. We backed into a north-south facing site. The trees didn’t shade the panels. I’m thrilled that they work so well. Glad to know my post was helpful! I've learned so much from these forums that I try to take every opportunity to help others with what I know/do. I recently picked up a 3rd RV...I've already got the solar components to put four 100w panels on the roof. Should be more than enough for the 200-300AH lead acid battery bank and inverter. I'm never looking to get into a huge battery bank with the focus of being 100% off the grid 100% of the time. I mostly use my RV 2-7 days at a time and just want to have the ability to do some modest boondocking whenever necessary. The alternator and/or generator can always charge the batteries if I'm ever in need. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 09/28/21 01:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar install so far

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SJ-Chris 09/27/21 06:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar install so far

I was faced with a similar thought/feeling/fear regarding the lack of thickness on my RV roof when drilling/screwing down solar panels. It seemed really thin. Here's a link to what I did and how my install went: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30217540.cfm Summary: Instead of 4 brackets per panel, I ended up with 8. I also used 3M double sided tape in between the bracket and the roof to give them extra grip/holding power. They seem 100% unmovable still one year later. If you are like me, you probably had a little fun coming up with your solution. I applaud your ingenuity. The adjustable furniture feet to give your panels extra support across the span are crucial. You might consider using 3M double sided tape to hold them down to your roof so the panels don't bounce while driving down the road. Enjoy your sunshine power! Chris PS: Isn't solar addictive??
SJ-Chris 09/27/21 05:59pm Tech Issues
RE: House battery recommendations.............

(In fact lithiums pose a conundrum -> they are outstanding because their terminal voltage holds up well right close to the point where they are empty, but they are problematic because you can't hardly tell how close they are getting to empty by monitoring their terminal voltage!) A simple battery monitor will keep you informed all the time. Plus, they are educational (...and fun in a nerdy kind of way...) to be able to see exactly how many amps/etc each item is using. I installed these and am happy with them... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FGFFHC6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 09/06/21 03:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Batteries won't hold charge - need help

If you need a quick solution (which your post states), you can consider adding one of these to each battery and disconnecting them each time when you leave them. Simple to install. That will guarantee nothing is being drawn from the batteries while you are away. That will give you time to fix the problem later once you get settled in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SBFKM5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 09/06/21 03:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Cruise America Towng

I can tell you that when you buy one of their previous rental 28a RVs, the hitch says 5000lbs (2015 model). The 2500lbs in the rental paperwork is because they don't want people towing much of anything with their RVs. -Chris
SJ-Chris 08/31/21 08:56pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

I recently had my Onan 4000w generator rebuilt by an Onan generator EXPERT (...he rebuilds them and has done dozens or maybe hundreds...). Regarding the fuel pump, I was told to be careful regarding the fuel pump replacement. He said some non-OEM makers of these fuel pump replacements do NOT have an internal shutoff valve mechanism and can result in situations where fuel can leak (...leak until your tank is at 1/4 full, so it could be a lot). Any idea if your fuel pump is an Onan fuel pump or an aftermarket fuel pump which might have this problem? -Chris
SJ-Chris 08/28/21 11:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: How to Install Fuel Pump & Gas Filter for Onan

Dear Friends .... Would somebody be able to give me some step by step instructions on how to remove and replace the fuel filter & fuel pump on my 4ky Onan Mobile Genset Generator? Model 4ky Fa26100J - S/N L000188850. I ordered & now have received the pump & filter for the Unit. Any an all assistance or suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thank you very much! KK - USAF 62-66 I was recently told by an Onan generator EXPERT (...he rebuilds them and has done dozens or maybe hundreds...) to be careful regarding the fuel pump replacement. He said some non-OEM makers of these fuel pump replacements do NOT have an internal shutoff valve mechanism and can result in situations where fuel can leak (...leak until your tank is at 1/4 full, so it could be a lot). So I suggest you replace yours with an Onan brand fuel pump. Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/28/21 11:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

Please be careful as your troubleshoot this problem. Make sure all of the leaked gasoline is cleaned up before you try to start the generator. Good Luck, ~Rick I *strongly* recommend you have a fire extinguisher next to you while troubleshooting. My impression is that most of these fuel lines from the gas tank are physically connected to the RV gas tank at the 1/4 level and therefore they will stop allowing gas to the generator anytime the tank dips below 1/4 full. Perhaps I'm wrong, but that's the way I've always understood it. (...and of course different RVs can be hooked up different ways) Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/27/21 04:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

That is a very dangerous situation...take it very serious! The fuel like going to the generator I believe *IS* gravity fed. I believe this because when you change the fuel filter you have to pop off that fuel line and it immediately starts leaking gas and you need to plug it while you change the fuel filter. It stops leaking at 1/4 tank, because that's as low as your generator can draw gas from the main tank (BY DESIGN). If you are lucky, the fuel line is leaking at or before it gets to the fuel filter. That might be an easy fix. Do you see clamps of some sort where the fuel line connects to the fuel filter. If staring at the generator, the fuel line can be found outside the generator coming in from the left side. Do you see gas in the bottom tray of the generator?? If so, perhaps it is leaking from inside the cover somewhere. Since your generator wasn't running, it is a gravity fed issue and should be leaking somewhere before the fuel pump. -Chris
SJ-Chris 08/27/21 02:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Onan 4000 generator cranks but won't start

Update: Generator FIXED...here's what was wrong.... So my local RV mechanic had told me that the engine on the generator was done/broke and that it doesn't make sense to replace the engine on these Onan 4000 generators (...I've actually heard that from a couple of knowledgeable mechanics). My options were to buy a new one or a used one. While investigating buying new, I learned that it would cost ~$4000 shipped for a new Onan 4000 generator (which I was okay with) BUT it would take somewhere between 10-29 weeks to deliver. There is a big parts/component shortage causing huge delays. I didn't like the idea of waiting. So I started looking for a used Onan 4000 generator. I quickly found out that there weren't really very many options. I found a couple locally, but the owners could never get back to me with answers to my basic questions and they seemed flakey. Then I feel like I lucked out....I found a guy who is retired and now seems to have a passion for rebuilding/refurbishing RV generators. Sounds like he's done dozens and dozens of them over the last 10 years. Incredibly knowledgeable. He had an Onan 4000 that he just finished refurbishing that I could buy for $1700 that was fully tested and operating to spec (and he could demonstrate happily). He also offered to help install it into my RV with my help. I felt like I struck gold finding this guy and made arrangements to visit him (...he was a couple hundred miles away, but I could turn it into a mini-vacation and visit a friend of mine who happened to live nearby). He also insisted, "Let's take a quick look at your current non-running generator and see if we can fix it...that way you won't need to buy this refurbished one." You can tell a lot about the guy's character right there...he wasn't just trying to sell me his latest refurbished generator. So I visited him on Monday. He asked me if I wanted to just drop it off, or if I was interested in learning more about these generators and I could troubleshoot it with him. He is a bit of an old-timer and I could see that he probably would enjoy some company. And, Since I'm always looking to learn, I stuck around. After about 2 hours he was able to identify what the problem was and he declared, "I can fix this generator for you!". Here's what the problem was....(Please excuse me if I mis-name any components in my description...I'm not a mechanic)... Once he removed the carburetor he could see the throttle plate (flap) on the carburetor had broken free and was forced downstream and he thinks it might have been wedged in a way that was holding the valve open (hence no compression). We found the throttle plate lodged in that region. There are 2 screws that hold that plate on and they were missing (...presumably they went through the engine). We pulled the cylinder head/cover to inspect the piston and the chamber and you could see on the piston there were some marks/scuffs, but the chamber looked great with no damage. He said my carb looked beyond repair, but he had replacement/rebuilt carbs. He told me he was highly confident that he could quickly refurbish my generator, replace the carb, replace anything else needed while he was in there, do a valve job, etc. He is the kind of guy who could probably rebuild this generator with his eyes closed, AND he took great pride in his workmanship and wanted to make sure when he was done fixing the generator it would be at factor spec/tested and working as good as new (he had all necessary equipment/tools and then some). I left to visit with my friend, but he spent 10 hours working on it that day and the next and I came back the next afternoon and we tested it and reinstalled it. I helped out as much as I could with various aspects and enjoyed learning in the process. He even did a little welding on my support brackets because there was some rust that made him uncomfortable on the brackets and now they are super reinforced. Once installed, we tested it again and it is purring like a kitten even under full load. I am confident this generator will last quite a while now. Out the door cost for parts and ~12 hours of labor: $780. I'm quite pleased! Happy camping all! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/18/21 08:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Onan 4000 generator cranks but won't start

Update: I reached the end my my troubleshooting abilities, so I brought it to my local RV mechanic. After quickly testing that it wasn't something simple, he removed the generator from the RV so he could remove the cover and dive in deeper. Long story short...he tells me the motor is shot. He thinks it must have overheated and some of the internals went ka-put (....he rattled off some internal components that had broken/etc that I didn't jot down). He tried replacing one item and put it back together but was still getting zero compression. He says it would probably cost more money to try to fix this one and it is time for a new generator... He recommended I find a good used one if I can find one with a warranty. I liked his recommendation as I felt like he wasn't just trying to gouge me for more $$$ and he wasn't pushing me to go out and get a brand new generator. I wanted to get some opinions from those of you out there who care to share.... This RV is a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a. Previous Cruise America rental. I've been very pleased with it so far (and I have another identical one). They serve well for how I am using them. This one has 140,000 miles on the engine. I can easily see holding on to this one for another 3-5 years. Everything else seems to be in good shape. Would you buy a brand new Onan 4000 generator and install it? Would you go for a used one for less than 1/2 the price? I did some googling. There are two used ones locally each for ~$800. If I'm going to buy used, I will require seeing that it runs. I also found these new ones... https://www.norwall.com/products/Cummins-Onan-QG-4-0-EVAP-Gasoline-RV-Generator-40KYFA-6747/?ctm=onan&gclid=CjwKCAjwmK6IBhBqEiwAocMc8pMmjQtGLnbkDF-LjmWtIROKeqAOqJSwPhQdLswWpNlLwdpZYoLZzxoCXDkQAvD_BwE https://www.norwall.com/products/Cummins-Onan-QG-4-0-EVAP-Gasoline-RV-Generator-40KYFA-6747/?ctm=onan&gclid=CjwKCAjwmK6IBhBqEiwAocMc8pMmjQtGLnbkDF-LjmWtIROKeqAOqJSwPhQdLswWpNlLwdpZYoLZzxoCXDkQAvD_BwE and I'm sure I can find others. Seem like new ones cost ~$3300-3500. Does anyone know of any companies out there who rebuild/refurbish Onan generators and sell them with warranties? I'm not opposed to buying a brand new one. Just weighing my options and looking for opinions (which often times can be valuable and lead to discovery of additional options). Thanks in advance! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/05/21 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Roof reseal options

Thanks guys. I'm also considering calling some "mobile" RV repair guys and asking for estimates/bids. I would think they'd charge less than a shop but would still have knowledge of the do's and don't in a reseal job. It wouldn't surprise me to hear that a Mobile RV repair guy charges MORE than a shop. Let us know what you find out. It really is a straightforward, simple job. Basically painting in an environment where you a)Don't need to be incredibly detailed/accurate, and b)Nobody else is ever really going to even see (...your roof)! I would suggest using painter's tape to tape around your edges that might be visible from the ground so that you don't get paint (Dicor) where you don't want it. Other than that, it's really easy. I just picked up another RV and the roof needs to be resealed. Now that I've done it before (twice), I know it will only take me 4-5 hours total. Side note: It is oddly satisfying to have a beautiful, clean, white rooftop! Let us know how it goes. -Chris
SJ-Chris 08/03/21 04:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Roof reseal options

My RV is 7 years old and could use to have a complete caulking job on the roof for the front cap, back seam, and all vents, antenna, and the bathroom skylight. I've done a complete job before on my first RV, but that was over 20 years ago. Physically, there is no way I want to attempt that now. Here is where I'm going with this: I cringe to think of the cost of this if I took it to a dealer shop and had an RV tech do it and was charged the going per hour rate. Most shops are $130.00/hour and up. Don't get me wrong here. Overall, a certified RV tech is worth every penny he earns. There is a very wide range of expertise they must possess. But not all RV work is complicated and/or technical. Some jobs are simple, but labor intensive. Here is my question. Are there companies or outfits that specialize in resealing an RV that charge rates that are somewhat commensurate with the simplicity of the job? Thanks. Resealing a roof, provided it doesn't have underlying leak/bubbling issues already, is a relatively easy job. I've done it on a couple of RVs myself. If you can paint a bedroom in your house, you can probably reseal your roof. Here is a pretty good description of my project: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30201452.cfm I see that in your post you mention physically you don't want to do the job yourself. Understood. That is probably the one barrier to doing this task as it does require you getting up on your roof, pressure washing, etc and maybe you don't want to do that. Possible solution: Find someone else who is reasonable to do the task for you. Perhaps even a Handyman can do the job and their rate would be MUCH lower than an RV tech. Maybe a painter could do the task for you. Perhaps the son or daughter of one of your friends or neighbors might be interested. The job involves about 3-4 hours of prep one day (including pressure washing), and then 3-4 hours on another day to seal the roof with a few coats and paint over all the seals. In total, it might be 8-10 hours of someone's time. You can probably find someone to do it for $20-40/hr which means it will cost you ~$200-$400 in labor (....instead of $1000-1500 at the RV shop). Hope this helps! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/03/21 03:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Project complete: 500w solar install, plus 2000w inverter

Well, at the time when I was buying, I was only looking to buy 1 panel at 250w. Since they were so cheap, I bumped up my system to 500w. At that time, I wasn't even planning on putting solar on my other RV, but I figured, "At this price, I'd better just buy it" and so I did. I have since installed it on one of my other RVs (another identical 500w system). I will likely add a 3rd lead acid battery giving me 300AH. I think the 500w of total solar power I have will be more than enough to keep them charged. I don't really boondock too much, so I don't really even feel like I need 300AH worth of batteries. But I do have a 2000w pure sine wave inverter and I want to be able to run the microwave from it. I believe it will pull ~150amps at 12v which is too much for just 2 lead acid batteries but I hope 3 will be able to handle the draw. You can look on craigslist or FB marketplace and find great deals on used solar panels for cheap. Just test them prior to buying. That makes for some very inexpensive solar systems. I think the panels will outlive the duration that most will be holding onto their RVs. Happy Camping! -Chris
SJ-Chris 08/01/21 12:27am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Onan 4000 generator cranks but won't start

How are you making out with your genset? I was out of town (not RVing) for the last 7 days. I will continue working on it this coming week. -Chris
SJ-Chris 07/31/21 11:28pm Tech Issues
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