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RE: Onan 4000 generator cranks but won't start

Did you try spraying starter fluid into the intake while it's cranking? If it starts and runs a few seconds you probably have a fuel delivery problem. Thanks for the suggestion. Please help me understand how to implement your suggestion... I assume the "intake" (carb?) is basically where the air filter is sitting, right? So would I remove the air filter and then spray starter fluid in there while cranking? The way the air filter housing is situated, I cannot see inside there so that will make it a bit challenging. I guess something like this would work? Does it usually come with some sort of straw so that I could get it in closer to where the carb is (...the air filter housing is probably 4-5 inches deep). I'll give it a shot. Thanks! Any other suggestions? -Chris
SJ-Chris 07/22/21 06:04pm Tech Issues
Onan 4000 generator cranks but won't start

Hi all, I have a 2015 Cummins Onan RV QG 4000 generator. It has somewhere between 300-1000hrs (not sure, I've only owned it for about 2 years and it was a previous rental...might not be the original generator on this RV and I don't trust the hour meter coming from the rental company). About 1 year ago, I replaced the oil, air filter, and spark plug. Since then there has been 50-100 hours. Up until recently it has been working fine. Recently, it won't start. It cranks and cranks very strong, but doesn't start. To troubleshoot so far here is what I have done to no avail... - I have a full tank of gas in the motorhome. - The motorhome is level. - Altitude adjustment set to 0 (I am near sea level). - I checked the oil to make sure there wasn't too much (it is to the low end on the dipstick as most seem to recommend). - I swapped in a good spark plug to make sure that wasn't the problem, and it didn't fix it. - I checked the air filter and it seems fine (...even tried starting it without the air filter and it didn't start). - I changed the fuel filter with a new one, primed it and tried starting it several times and that didn't fix the problem. - I disconnected all the batteries (and my solar) per someone's suggestion to "reset" the generator. Hooked everything back up and it still didn't fix the problem. It still cranks very strong...just doesn't start. The only error code I could get from the lights was '4' (which is over-cranking). I don't think in all the testing that I did I ever let it crank for more than 10-20 seconds at a time. I have reached the current extent of my generator knowledge! lol.... I'm hoping some of you can help me expand that knowledge with some more suggestions/recommendations. One thing I've learned about owning an RV (...I actually have 3 now) is that it makes sense to try to learn to fix as much yourself as possible because RV mechanics are a)busy, b)expensive, and c)a hassle to drop off/pick up/etc. Plus, it's fun/satisfying when we can fix our own rigs and not be as dependent on others. Thanks in advance! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/22/21 04:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Project complete: 500w solar install, plus 2000w inverter

So how is the system working? Update: I've been boondocking 3-4 times with this RV (200AH lead acid batteries and 500w of solar installed) each time for 3-4 days. The most strain on the batteries was a trip where I was camping in 35-40 degree F nighttime weather and running the furnace at night. Plenty of TV time and computer use also. I think the lowest I saw the battery bank in the morning was in the high 60s (60% batteries full). As soon as the sun came up the solar kicked in and within a few hours I was up to 85-90% and always up to about 95% by sundown. As you know, the last ~5% charge on your battery tends to take a very long time with lead acid batteries (...they only seem to allow about 1-2 amps in at a time even if your system can deliver 20-30). All-in-all, I haven't had to worry at all about my batteries at all with my newly installed 500w solar system. I ended up adding an identical 500w system onto my other Majestic 28a. The last battery related project I need/want to do is to add one more 100AH lead acid battery to one of my RVs. This will give me 300AH, but more importantly I believe I'll be able to run my microwave through my 2000w inverter with 3 batteries. (With just 2 lead acid batteries the amp draw through each will be about 80amps which I'm not comfortable with. With 3 batteries it drops down to ~50amps from each battery which I think is manageable for a few minute microwave task.) Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/21/21 02:27am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Quiet series generator 9500 watts!!!

10-30 times louder? Someone needs to read up about the db scale. :B He references the Honda which is listed 59 dB, since the power doubles for every 3 dB of gain, 62 dB is double the racket of the Honda, 65 dB is double the 62, 67 is almost double of the 65. That's **** close to 10 times louder. The difference between a quiet conversation and having a hoover exhaust stuck in your ear. Does anyone really give a ratsass? No quite. Twice the perceived loudness is a 10 db increase. Maybe on Fantasy Island, but whatever you say. Fantasy Island, along with the rest of the world. A 10 db increase is 10X the power, but we, as humans only perceive that as being 2X as loud. Do some reading up on the subject, it's quite fascinating & goes against a lot of common understanding of the subject. But all that aside, 67 db is way too loud for a campground. Campers 10 sites away would complain, I'm sure. Just trying to help everyone out...I just called the front desk at Fantasy Island. They do not allow generators there.
SJ-Chris 06/08/21 03:21pm Tech Issues
RE: need back up camera suggestions

I have installed this brand/type of wireless backup camera on 3 RVs I've owned. My RVs have all been 30-31'. I imagine other brands that are similar would do the trick also. EASY to install. Install them high on the rear of your RV or TT just under the running lights. You can tap power from the middle running light which makes it easy. On the inside with the monitor, just find a convenient place to mount it and use the included double sided tape. Then plug the monitor in to your cigarette lighter for power. I always drive with my lights on (day or night) so the running lights are always on and giving the camera power. With this setup, you can keep it on while driving or turn it's up to you. Just need to remember to turn off the monitor when you park. Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 06/04/21 02:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Class C RV cost in the Covid era...

Well, they're 'asking' 44 grand. I believe most people shopping for one of these ex-rental units don't have cash in their pocket, so they need to finance. The unit they're buying is going to have to book out for a potential lender to approve them. But, my guess is that these inflated prices aren't going to be around that long before the bubble bursts, just like the housing market did in 2008. Most people's experience with buying from Cruise America is that their prices are very firm (other than the advertised sales they have sometimes). They don't negotiate on price. They WILL make repairs and fixes if you ask them prior to purchase. But the listed price is what they sell them for. Yes, I understand what you are talking about regarding financing. But people are usually putting some money down and financing the rest so I don't think lender valuation will be too much of an issue. -Chris
SJ-Chris 06/01/21 02:18pm Class C Motorhomes
Class C RV cost in the Covid era...

Class C RV cost in the Covid era... Here is a good data point for USED RVs for anyone interested... (I haven't shopped for NEW RVs so I don't know about that market...perhaps someone else here can comment on that.) In Feb 2019 (pre-Covid), I bought two 2015 Class C Thor Majestic 28a renovated units from Cruise America. Each had ~115,000 miles. One I paid $26,750 and the other one I paid $25,000 (from someone who purchased it from Cruise America 2 months prior but decided it wasn't for them). Assumption: Cruise America, the largest renter/seller of RVs in the world, knows what the current market for RVs is... Today, Cruise America sells their used 2017 Thor Majestic 28a renovated units with ~125,000 miles for $44,300. Newer RVs (2017 vs 2015) but more slightly miles. The interior/etc of these units is just about identical. $44,300 vs $26,750. Today's price is 66% higher! I would NOT be in a hurry to buy an RV in this market. In the USA, we are almost done with Covid (...anyone who wants to get vaccinated can now be vaccinated). Everything is opening up. Hotels/airlines/resorts. I have to imagine prices will drop significantly. Maybe not all the way down to pre-Covid levels, but hopefully just 10-15% higher than pre-Covid levels. That means they are probably due for a 30-40% price drop over the next 3 months to 3 years (....who knows?...) Seems like a great time to just RENT an RV for your vacations over the next year. That's what I would do (...unless you plan on camping more than 50-100 days during the next year or two which most people won't). Side note: Beware used RV sale scams....they seem to be on the rise! Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/31/21 06:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Well golly. I just finished reading all 154 pages and many, if not most, of my questions have been answered. I've truly enjoyed reading about all the fixes and changes and whatnot. Thanks to all for the info. My husband and I are seriously considering the Majestic 28a. We would like to go talk to someone and considered going to Newark on Friday. Then I remembered the holiday. We'll wait. I would guess that they would be too busy. I have several questions that deal with the bedroom. We're full timers and have two cats and a dog. Pepi, the dog, is a dachshund/beagle mix. Short legs. Any suggestions to make it easier for her to get on the bed? I figure I'll have a better idea of what I can do once I get a better look. I'll probably have to build something. Also, is there any way to make a cat-sized opening for access from the bedroom to the rear storage? Keeping the litterboxes in the storage bay would be so much nicer. Thanks in advance. I'm in the South Bay and have two 28a RVs from Cruise America. If you have any questions or would like to see one and ask lots of questions feel free to send me a private message. -Chris
SJ-Chris 05/31/21 06:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

Update.... Regarding the pin looking item...My mechanic tells me that's just part of the tension assembly and it should not be pulled. Regarding the noise, it was diagnosed as a leaking exhaust manifold (one bolt had broken off). It makes sense that once things warm up and expand the noise goes away. I've heard exhaust manifold leaks before (when more bolts have broken off) and it was a much louder rumbling sound compared to this. Always learning... The "good news" is that this RV had the manifold replaced 10k miles ago (~$8k repair bill) and it is still under warranty, so the shop is going to fix it. Thanks for all the suggestions/etc. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/31/21 05:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

I'm not trying to be a smartass, but you might consider investing in a Shop Manual for that year engine. Also check Youtube, there are tons and tons of videos to fix just about anything. Best wishes to you. . I google and youtube like crazy! I have searched dozens of youtube videos on this subject. Plenty that show how to replace all sorts of tension pulley assemblies but not one that shows how to remove this pin. I have it installed....I just can't get this pin out. It seems like there is lots of tension on the belt even with this pin in, but I can see that it looks like it wants to be removed and that might allow the pulley to tighten an additional 1/4 inch on the belt. I put a socket wrench (for leverage) onto the pulley to release the tension to get the belt on. I even tried releasing the tension this way and remove the pin....but the pin just doesn't seem like it wants to budge. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/20/21 01:50am Tech Issues
RE: Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

Okay....I'm replacing the idler pulley and the tension pulley and assembly. When I got out the idler and gave it a spin, it spun more freely than the new one....about 2-3 times longer if in spin it. Apparently, when these go bad they spin longer (you want there to be some resistance). So the Idler pulley is not horrible, but I replaced it anyways. When I got out the tension pulley and assembly I gave the pulley a spin. It spins and spins and spins for a long time. This is a sign that it is bad. So now I've got the new pulleys in. The new tension assembly has a different type of pin (tensioner pin??). See photo: Can anyone tell me HOW TO REMOVE THIS PIN AND WHEN? I've got the new pulleys all installed but the pin is still in. Hopefully one of you can tell me how to get it out! :-) Question: I'm assuming you install the tension pulley assembly and get the serpentine belt back on and in place AND THEN you remove the tension pin, RIGHT?? But how? Thanks!! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/19/21 09:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

One of the belt idler or tensioner pulleys going bad.If that is the case,it's cheap and easy enough to fix but complete failure will leave you stranded. When these start to fail (idler or tensioner), does it make sense that the sound happens from a cold start and goes away in 2-3 minutes? Maybe the bearings are starting to go and once they start rotating via the belt they quickly heat up and it makes the whirling sound go away???? I was just chatting with my neighbor who is MUCH more mechanically inclined than I am. I told him my issue. He immediately thought (before I even said it) it could very likely be the idler pulley or tension pulley. He said that when they get old or start to fail, sometimes the bearing grease starts getting hard (when the engine cools). Then, from a cold start there is momentarily rubbing that takes place ( for a couple minutes) and eventually they heat up and it melts the grease and then the whirling sound goes away. Sounds VERY consistent with my symptoms. I watched some youtube videos and it seems easy enough to change the idler pulley and tension pulley so I'm going to try to do that now and see if that fixes the problem. I'll let you know what happens. -Chris
SJ-Chris 05/19/21 05:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

One of the belt idler or tensioner pulleys going bad.If that is the case,it's cheap and easy enough to fix but complete failure will leave you stranded. When these start to fail (idler or tensioner), does it make sense that the sound happens from a cold start and goes away in 2-3 minutes? Maybe the bearings are starting to go and once they start rotating via the belt they quickly heat up and it makes the whirling sound go away????
SJ-Chris 05/19/21 04:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

Update: I checked on it again this morning after it had sat all night. Outside temps are ~70 degrees. The engine starts right up, but it initially does still have the "whirling" noise. It's not a squeaky belt, but a whirling noise (you can year it in the video). It sounds like it is coming from the area around the alternator, but it's hard to tell and there are lots of pulleys and the belt/fan in that area also. When I started it up I looked at the alternator voltage via a cigarette lighter charger/adapter that has the voltage display. Before I did anything (before starting the engine), the voltage read 12.6v (healthy). When I started the engine, within 2-3 seconds the display read 14.2v (which all appears normal). When I start the engine, I can hear the whirling noise. It gets louder as I rev the engine. Possible clue: I didn't drive it at all...just let it idle with occasional reving. After about 2 minutes the whirling noise was gone (even if I rev the engine). Then the engine sounds fine. So whatever is causing the noise is somehow getting fixed/corrected/lubricated/etc after just about 2 minutes of the engine running. Running the engine for just 2-3 minutes doesn't seem like long enough for it to physically warm up, so it seems more like a lubrication issue perhaps. If I turn it off and let it sit for a couple minutes and restart the engine it sounds fine. I'm not sure how bearings work (ie. in pulleys). I assume they are greased. Do they wear out and then make a rubbing/whirling noise? I don't smell any smoke or burning of any kind (doesn't seem like the alternator is overheating). I believe the chassis battery is only about 2 years old and is healthy. Thoughts?? Chris
SJ-Chris 05/19/21 02:15pm Tech Issues
Strange noise from engine..."Whirling" sound

This is for a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RV with a Ford e450 V10 engine. It is a previous rental. I've owned it for about 30,000 miles and it now has 140,000 miles on it. Back in Feb 2021 I had an RV mechanic go through for a yearly maintenance check (tires, brakes, fluids, belts, radiator, etc). It was in great shape and the only recommendation was to replace the Transmission fluid (which I had them do). That was 2000 miles ago and it has been running great. In May of 2020 (10,000 miles ago) it developed a leaking manifold. I brought it to one of my RV shops and they pulled the engine, replaced the manifold, and while they were doing that they also replaced all sorts of stuff since it was easy while they had the engine out. (Side note: It might be questionable that they had to pull the engine, but 5 of the 10 manifold bolts were snapped and they said it was the only way they could get them all out and replaced.) For the last ~10,000 miles since then it has purred like a kitten and driven well. The RV recently came back from a 1000 mile trip with no issues I'm aware of. After the RV sat for several hours (presumably cooled down) I went to drive it 3/4 of a mile away to where I store it. When I started it up, I could immediately hear that something in the engine didn't sound right. It sounded a little bit like a leaking manifold, except it wasn't the deep rumbling sound of a leaking manifold. It was more of a higher pitched whirling sound. Maybe a rubbing sound? As I accelerate, the whirling engine noise gets louder. Here is a youtube video so you can see/hear the sound. In the video, about two thirds of the way through I slow down and then accelerate into a right turn (that’s where you can hear the noise the best). Note: The yellow light on the left side of the dash is the Tow/Haul indicator (not a warning light). I have an OBD reader on the RV and it tells me that ALL SYSTEMs are okay and no error codes. All of the following say “No Problems Detected”: - Power Steering System - Engine Management System - Brake System - Internal Control System - Idle Control System - Generator System - Engine System - Intake System - Electrical System - Turbocharger System - Fuel System - Cooling System - Ignition System - Emission System - Fluids System - CAN System - Transmission System - MIL Control System I do not live in cold temperatures...all of this is happening with outside ambient temperature around 70 degrees F. Here is likely a clue that hopefully will help you (help me) pinpoint what the problem could be… The engine makes this noise ONLY FOR ABOUT THE FIRST 3 BLOCKS of driving when cold. Then the noise seems like it completely disappears and the engine sounds perfect. I’ve let it cool down and then driven it 3 times this week and each time it made this initial high pitched whirling noise for about the first 3 blocks of driving and then it went away. Tonight when this happened again (noise went away after 3 blocks), I pulled over and turned off the engine and let it sit for a couple minutes. When I started it up again it sounded fine and didn’t make the noise for the rest of the short trip to put the RV back in storage. I checked the radiator fluid, power steering fluid, and oil and they all look perfect. I didn’t check the transmission fluid. I don’t think the engine is “Warming Up” in just 2-3 blocks so it might not be “correcting” itself via some heat related thing. But I can’t help but think maybe there is some sort of fluid/oil/etc that settles when the RV sits for a few hours and then when starting from a cold engine/start after just a few blocks things become lubricated once again (due to the engine movement/cycling or fluid pumping) and then the whirling/rubbing noise goes away. Any thoughts what this can be??? Where should I start my investigation? Thanks in advance! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/19/21 02:21am Tech Issues
RE: Where to begin

Below are two checklists I use...One prior to each trip, and the other is my Purchase inspection checklist. It would be a good way for you to asses the situation on your RV. Some of the items may or may not apply. If you go through all of these items you can make a list of what works and what doesn't work on your RV. Then create an estimate on how much it will cost to fix each item. I like the above recommendation about multiplying by 1.5x as a buffer. Then you will have a total amount. Then ask yourself...."Can I just go and buy something newer that doesn't have all these problems and pay the same amount?" Your RV right now might only be worth $2000-$5000. If you put $20,000 into fixing it, it will probably be worth $10,000-$15,000 to someone else. Keep that in mind. I've learned that RV mechanics/repairs are EXPENSIVE, they take a LONG TIME (usually backed up), and most RV mechanics aren't as good as you'd like (....and some are downright criminals). Even though I'm a busy guy, I've learned to embrace the fact that *I* need to do much of the repairs on my RVs myself. These forums are great for advice on how to fix things, and there are youtube videos on just about everything. Instead of paying my RV shop $100/hr, I do it myself. If it takes me twice as long to do it, it's like paying myself $50/hr to do the work myself. I have also gained a deeper understanding as to how everything works on my RVs and a deeper appreciation for things that work. If you are sending your RV out for all repairs all the time, it will cost you a fortune. If your expected renovation cost is too much, you might be better off saving the money, donating/selling the RV, and then using the money to RENT a working RV the next 5-10 times you want to go RVing (...and save yourself all the headaches, hours spent on fixing it, cost to insure it, cost to store it, etc). Hope that helps! Good luck! -Chris Prior to Trip Departure Checklist: o Check the propane level to make sure it is near full o Check that the refrigerator/freezer is working o Check that the stove and microwave oven are functioning o Check that the AC and the furnace are functioning properly o Check that the hot water heater is working o Check that the carbon monoxide detector and LP Gas detector green indicator light is showing them to be functioning (note: House battery switch by entry door must be in the ON position in order for these to function) o Test the smoke detector to make sure it is functioning o Make sure the fire extinguisher is properly charged o Check that the generator is functioning properly o Verify that the engine alternator is properly charging all batteries (engine and house batteries) when engine is running o Verify that the house batteries are charging if the generator is on or the RV is plugged into shore power o Verify that the 120v power is working when the generator is on or the RV is plugged into shore power o Check the oil level, water level in the radiator, water level in the windshield wipers, brake fluid level o Verify that the RV has a full tank of gas o Verify that the tire pressure is correct for all 6 tires and the spare (70-80psi) o Check the tires for cracks, tread, and uneven wear o Verify that the black and gray waste tanks are near empty o Put 1 cup of gel detergent down the kitchen sink and toilet (keeps level sensors clean) o Verify that there is fresh water in the holding tank o Check all running lights, brake lights, turn signals, emergency lights o Check headlight high beams and low beams o Check that the horn is working o Check that the radio is working Here is another checklist I use when inspecting an RV prior to purchase: Exterior: Check the Manifold bolts! (…expensive to fix) Inspect body for damage Check all window seals Check tread and date on tires. Look for cracking on sidewall and inside the tread Test the waste tank sensor levels Look underneath rig for rust, holes, etc Look at rotors and brakes if possible Go on roof and inspect seals, separation, soft spots Look in engine compartment Check battery voltage on chassis Check battery voltage on house battery Start engine and listen Check battery voltages with alternator on (listen for solenoid click) Check battery voltage with generator/shore on Check headlights, running lights Check turn signals, hazards Check all exterior misc lights Check horn Inspect battery bank housing (need more support?) Open/close slide-outs. Look at seals and topper Open awning and look for rips Check drainage valves Test outdoor shower Check tire pressure Is there a spare tire? Tire iron? Inspect all external storage compartments Inspect generator Inspect exterior entertainment system if applicable Interior: Front Check the dash for cool AC on all vent settings Check the dash for heat on all vent settings Check radio Test door locking mechanism Check power windows, wipers, water, and mirrors Check backup camera Open up doghouse (interior engine cover) and take a look/listen Interior: House Test side door locking mechanism Check gauge control panel Turn on/light LP (refrigerator, water heater, furnace) Check that refrigerator operates on propane Check cushions (open them) and under cab cushions for mold Check all interior lights Inspect converter panel Turn on generator Check microwave Test TV and DVD Test roof AC Run roof AC and microwave at the same time with generator on Check all electrical outlets Check that refrigerator operates on generator/shore Test furnace for heat, smell, air volume through each vent Run kitchen sink and check under cabinet for leaks Run bathroom sink and check under cabinet for leaks Check for hot water from all valves Inspect area under cabinets (open up/remove panel) Look in all cabinets at ceiling for leaks Test ceiling fans Inspect all compartments Check all windows and blinds for functionality Check stove burners and oven Check solar if applicable Check inverter if applicable Test gray/black tank sensors (ask to inspect when waste tanks are empty, but full tank of fresh water so I can test) Take test ride on highway Under load does AC/Heat still come out front vents? Does the RV pull to one side when driving? When braking?
SJ-Chris 05/06/21 03:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 24 V Solar Panel(s)

Rich Solar makes a 200 watt 24 volt solar panel. I would remove my rear mounted 170 watt 12 v panel and purchase two of these Rich Solar 200 watt panels, with room to add a third if needed. One would be on the front and one on the rear of the camper. The 200 watt can be mounted in the same mounts as the existing 170 watt. I want to run parallel since we will be traveling where shade is often on either the front or rear of the camper. I have a Victron 100/30 smart controller already for this setup. Smart move or a waste of money? Enjoy, Perry Or search your local craigslist or facebook or nextdoor for something like these... 300w for $120. 600w for just $240. Not sure you need 600w, but just an idea... I was going to just put up a 250w system with a used panel on my RV. When I went to pick up the panel, they were on sale for $35 each (this is from a big used solar company in Arizona). To me, that's pretty much free. So even though I didn't need it, I put up two panels for 500w total. I've boondocked several times now and they work great. I'm adding a 3rd lead acid battery making my bank 300AH. It's more than I need and the solar easily keeps everything charged. It's nice never worrying about having enough power.... Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/06/21 01:45am Tech Issues
RE: 24 V Solar Panel(s)

Rich Solar makes a 200 watt 24 volt solar panel. I would remove my rear mounted 170 watt 12 v panel and purchase two of these Rich Solar 200 watt panels, with room to add a third if needed. One would be on the front and one on the rear of the camper. The 200 watt can be mounted in the same mounts as the existing 170 watt. I want to run parallel since we will be traveling where shade is often on either the front or rear of the camper. I have a Victron 100/30 smart controller already for this setup. Smart move or a waste of money? Enjoy, Perry What does your battery bank look like? (how many AH?) What about just adding another 170w panel? Would 340w deliver what you need? (If so, it saves you $200+). Or do you really need 400w (or more)? If you only have 200-250AH of batteries then 340w will likely be enough for most of the time (unless you are camping in shady areas or in bad weather). Do you have a backup generator just in case you need it? OR, for likely less money you could buy TWO more 170w panels and then you'd have 3 panels delivering 510w for less price than buying two 200w panels (400w total) and having no use for the existing 170w panel. (I'm assuming the similar 170w panels are a little cheaper than the 200w version). -Chris
SJ-Chris 05/06/21 01:32am Tech Issues
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Gray/Black waste tank upgrade??? I have two 2015 Thor Majestic 28a units purchased from Cruise America. I've made many upgrades and find them to be well built/maintained. One thing I wish was different is the waste water storage tank capacities. I believe they are about 25 gallons each (black/gray). With just a few people camping they fill up pretty quick. Has anyone upgraded these to larger capacities? Just curious if that is something easily doable and if anyone had any experience to share on the subject. Thanks! -Chris
SJ-Chris 05/04/21 03:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Solar/Inverter Question

Long time RVer, new solar user. Just bought a new fifth wheel that came with solar. Equipment is: One solar panel that I think is around 170 watts, a Zamp Solar Charge 30 amp Controller, a Xantrex X2000 Inverter. I should add we have a pair for 6 volt 235 AH Deep Cycle (Crown) Batteries. Just did 3 nights dry camping, despite being in AZ, it was light overcast for the 3 days. System seems marginal under these conditions for using some lights, water pump for normal stuff, ran the furnace one morning for a few minutes and ran the coffee pot each morning. I did notice the solar panel is dirty from a desert shower on the previous trip. So that didn't help the cause I am sure. I am not getting my mind around how to run the inverter. Mostly confused about what mode use, Auto On, standby, power save ? Keystone mounted the inverter off the floor joist in the basement, so not to accessible for use. I will be getting the remote for it. But I would love to hear from some experienced user about how to best use this system. It is HIGHLY likely that if you just add one more 170w solar panel in parallel on your rooftop (which is fairly simple to add) you will not need to worry about power anymore. 340w on a sunny day should be able to add 90-100AH back into your batteries, and you likely aren't using more than 50-80AH of power daily. Add a battery monitor is SOOOOO helpful as it pertains to all things batteries/charging. (And, if you are a nerd like me you'll find it interesting to see how much power each little thing in your RV uses). I installed a very good monitor for ~$45 ( can google it). A battery monitor really should come standard on an RV since they are so very helpful. Happy Camping! Chris
SJ-Chris 04/25/21 11:12pm Tech Issues
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