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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: New here! 1986 Holiday Rambler Alternator
More likely than not, you have a Magnatek 63XX converter. In the unlikely event it still works, the battery charge line output is only 3 amps.
You can keep the fuse box and converter body but you'll wan't to plan on upgrading the charger section. You can easily swap it out with a Progressive Dynamics (PDI) unit like a PDI9245 or PDI9260 and get the latest technology.
Check out Best Converter. They have detailed instructions on replacing your charge center.
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ScottG
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01/30/23 09:00pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Generator question
I have no dog in this fight but I always thought a huge advantage of a built-in was that you could cool the interior off as your going down. Seems like it would be nice to do when driving all day in the heat.
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ScottG
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01/30/23 09:38am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Installing a new Thetford Toilet and water supply line
Good vid and nice work. Seems like no two toilets have the same connection location!
I always add an inline shut-off valve to my RV toilet. Then if the fill valve starts leaking you can at least keep using the commode and just shut it off between flushes (yes, it has happened to us).
It's also handy for throttling down the water flow when dry camping.
I too, replace the seat with a nicer, soft closing model.
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ScottG
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01/27/23 01:39pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Winter in Arizona...
Must be nice there at that alt. in the hot summer months!
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ScottG
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01/24/23 10:44am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Surge Suppressor
Yes, your 50A unit will work fine.
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ScottG
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01/18/23 06:56pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: cleaning roof and floor vents
I've found the same as Opnspaces but you could get yourself a flashlight and a small mirror, then take a look for yourself.
Other than some construction material, I've never found anything in any of mine - top or bottom.
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ScottG
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01/09/23 08:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: How does 50 amp work?
The 50 amp 220 volt is the same as the 30 amp 220 volts at your home.
Most RV's loads are 110 volts thus only use one side of the 220 volts as do most of the loads at your home. Most homes only the water heater, electric range and electric furnace use 220 volts and most are 30 amps or less with the exception of some heat pumps. A heat pump in a RV may be wired for 220 volts.
NO HP in a RV is wired for 220 volts. No such HP for an RV has 220 volts. ALL are 110 volts.
220/240 volts in an RV is supplied by 2 separate 120 wires OUT OF PHASE. EACH side is on a 50 amp breaker for 100 amps total supply. The RV does NOT separate the supply. The supply is already separated at the POLE. If the Supply is in phase, the RV will not function correctly all the time. For instance, you have a built in EMS (energy management system) . IT sees if the supply is out of phase. IF IT IS, then you have full 100 amp capacity. IF same phase at supply the EMS will only allow 30 amps total operation. It assumes you have connected a 50 to 30 amp reducer dogbone. IF you think you are connected to a 50 amp service and your EMS shows 30 amp, you have what I call CHEATED 50 amp service. The RV park did not upgrade their supply and wiring for true 50 amp total 100 amp service. This is theft by the RV park. You are paying for 50 amp service and they are NOT giving you what you pay for. The simple test ALL RV'ers need to do is have a multitester and at the Park Pole test the voltage between the 3 and 9 o clock spade slots. 50 amp will show 240. ANY OTHER reading, the pole is NOT 50 amp. Doug
A good explanation. Only thing wrong with it is that the "out of phase" part - a common misconception.
They (the two legs) are in-phase with each other and maybe easier to understand as two halves of the same phase. On an oscilloscope the signal would look like one complete sine wave. That phase is then split into the two, 120VAC legs.
So your 240VAC service is referred to as Split-Phase.
I think my explanation is better on the Phasing. Please explain in your definition, why, when people try CHEATED 50 amp. They use the same "leg" and then attempt to split that leg onto BOTH sides of the 50 amp RV breaker box, you are still on one phase. This is the Electrical definition of this, NOT MINE. "Two 120 V AC lines are supplied to the premises that are out of phase by 180 degrees with each other". Doug
PS, the definitions also state Split Phase as the same, but I feel stating OUT OF PHASE is better to let lay people understand WHY 50 amp is as it is. It helps explain the 240 between the legs.
No Doug, I'm not going to explain it any further to you because of your history here. While you have often given valuable info in other threads, you are not up for learning anything from anyone here because your ego gets in the way. My apologies for being abrupt but I've been here a LOT longer than you and I'm just not interested in that type of conversation anymore because it's fruitless for both of us.
If you're truly interested in learning, you can Google "Split Phase" and find volumes of interesting information. You might even find that what you learn will make it easier to explain 50A service to others.
Good luck,
Scott
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ScottG
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01/02/23 08:40pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How does 50 amp work?
The 50 amp 220 volt is the same as the 30 amp 220 volts at your home.
Most RV's loads are 110 volts thus only use one side of the 220 volts as do most of the loads at your home. Most homes only the water heater, electric range and electric furnace use 220 volts and most are 30 amps or less with the exception of some heat pumps. A heat pump in a RV may be wired for 220 volts.
NO HP in a RV is wired for 220 volts. No such HP for an RV has 220 volts. ALL are 110 volts.
220/240 volts in an RV is supplied by 2 separate 120 wires OUT OF PHASE. EACH side is on a 50 amp breaker for 100 amps total supply. The RV does NOT separate the supply. The supply is already separated at the POLE. If the Supply is in phase, the RV will not function correctly all the time. For instance, you have a built in EMS (energy management system) . IT sees if the supply is out of phase. IF IT IS, then you have full 100 amp capacity. IF same phase at supply the EMS will only allow 30 amps total operation. It assumes you have connected a 50 to 30 amp reducer dogbone. IF you think you are connected to a 50 amp service and your EMS shows 30 amp, you have what I call CHEATED 50 amp service. The RV park did not upgrade their supply and wiring for true 50 amp total 100 amp service. This is theft by the RV park. You are paying for 50 amp service and they are NOT giving you what you pay for. The simple test ALL RV'ers need to do is have a multitester and at the Park Pole test the voltage between the 3 and 9 o clock spade slots. 50 amp will show 240. ANY OTHER reading, the pole is NOT 50 amp. Doug
A good explanation. Only thing wrong with it is that the "out of phase" part - a common misconception.
They (the two legs) are in-phase with each other and maybe easier to understand as two halves of the same phase. On an oscilloscope the signal would look like one complete sine wave. That phase is then split into the two, 120VAC legs.
So your 240VAC service is referred to as Split-Phase.
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ScottG
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01/01/23 08:09pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 12 volt fridges and boondocking?
It's going to depend A LOT on exactly what 12V fridge you have.
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ScottG
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12/23/22 12:15pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Shore power question
Years ago when converter/chargers were "dumb" it could potentially kill a battery but not true of modern equipment.
It will entirely depend on what converter/charger you have.
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ScottG
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12/19/22 11:57am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: solar awning
Looks like $7500 Link
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ScottG
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12/18/22 09:14pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Portable Solar Generators
These types of devices definitely have a place.
We rec'd a 200 watt Yeti as a xmas present several years ago. If dry camping, it's very handy as a power supply for our TV and other small loads. If we drive around during the day, I can recharge it via the on-board inverter in my truck. I don't need AC for anything else other than coffee, and I use the gen for a few minutes for that. Using these devices extends our coach batteries and allows us to go a weekend without recharging.
So we find it to be a valuable addition to our energy reserves.
Take note that if you have an battery powered lawn mower like a Ryobi, Greenworks, EGo, etc, you can get reasonably priced PSW inverters for those batteries as well. The one for my Ryobi (Which I have 2/5A batteries for) kept our internet going during a recent 3 day power outage and can run a television for hours. Yes, I know these devices aren't exactly the same thing as a solar gen but it's close enough for us.
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ScottG
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12/10/22 10:00pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Gasket/molding issue
Had an RV doing that many years ago. I just put a few small dots of silicone behind it and it never came out again. It would easily come apart if you wanted it to though.
Be gentle or the paint will come off the strip.
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ScottG
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11/28/22 09:51am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Olympic National Park / Port Angeles
Campgrounds are so busy around here that there's just no way I would count on getting a spot at any first-come type of place - especially that late in the day.
I would stay where I can get a reservation.
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ScottG
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11/27/22 08:56pm |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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RE: SPAM from a new “member”.
I got that one too. What surprised me was there was no way to report a PM - at least one that I could find.
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ScottG
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11/23/22 02:11pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: LED Side Marker Lights
Be Sure To Drink Your Ovaltine.
Great reference! (Took me a minute)
:B
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ScottG
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11/22/22 01:34pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Toilet seat cover ???
Get yourself one with soft-close option while you're at it.
Luxury at its best!
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ScottG
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11/11/22 07:17pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Toilet seat cover ???
There are two main sizes of toilet seats whether it be RV or otherwise. One is commonly referred to as round (yours probably) and the other is elongated. Measure the length of yours, go to HomeDepot and find one you like.
I replace the junky plastic ones when my RV's are new.
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ScottG
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11/11/22 07:09pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: TT keeps popping shore breaker
Just turning off a breaker doesn't isolate the circuit enough to remove a faulty device from tripping a GFCI. You need to unplug, disconnect things like the fridge to check them.
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ScottG
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11/05/22 07:31pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Changing Screen Mesh - No-See-Ums?
Yes, I bought a roll of No see um from Home Depot and re-screened all but one of my windows in my last two RV's (hate these long winters). I haven't noticed any difference in air flow although I'm sure there's some minor reduction.
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ScottG
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11/05/22 07:25pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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