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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: lino cracked after cold spell
It's normal to only adhere it around the edges. I suspect RV's just use the outer walls to hold it in place.
Cracking happens all the time. My neighbor had his crack when the temps were in the teens a few years ago. I keep mine heated to just above freezing to combat this.
Maybe Ins. will cover. :(
EDIT: I tore my floor by accident and was able to piece it back together and use glue (Titebond, a PVA type glue was suggested by flooring mfr) to hold it down. You cant even find the spot I fixed. Might try that.
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ScottG
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01/20/20 08:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: firewall, black expanding foam
Black will burn. You can use fire-block foam which will even take a direct flame. OTOH, even the black or white "Stuff" is good for around 240 degrees and I doubt it will see those kinds of heat.
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ScottG
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01/20/20 07:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Low clearance - cut this off?
Cutting will help your ground clearance issue but not solve it.
Cutting it solved the same problem for me!
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ScottG
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01/20/20 07:54pm |
Towing
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RE: Smart Light Bulbs
My neighbor has those for his porch lights. Yes, if the power gets interupted they go nuts and need reprogramming.
In his case he was on vacation in Hi when someone turned the light switch off and back on. The lights flashed for 2 days until he got home. :B
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ScottG
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01/20/20 07:51pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Check Me....I am OK with this set-up
I think your good to go!
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ScottG
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01/20/20 07:49pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Question on inner bearing grease seals
Some seals are designed to be used with the EZ lube or in the case of marine stuff "Bearing buddys" style grease system and are built to take the pressure (in theory..) created during the greasing process. Those seals cost more.
If you don't use that "feature" then the cheaper, more common seals work fine for RV's but for a boat trailer, I'd get the better ones becasue they have a tighter seal.
Scott
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ScottG
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01/20/20 07:46pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Low clearance - cut this off?
I cut off several inches on a couple of those, including the one I've been using for more than ten years. No problems what so ever.
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ScottG
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01/20/20 12:18pm |
Towing
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RE: Jump Start Question
Just replaced the 10 y/o batterys in my Dodge. They still worked but didn't like sitting in the cold very long.
I've been driving for about 43 years. In that time I have had batterys suddenly short internally on 2 occasionions in various cars. Both times they could not be jump started. The shorted battery was just too much of a load.
It kinda sounds like that's what happeded to you but that's a lot of bad batts in a short time.
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ScottG
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01/20/20 12:12pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No! I’m not top heavy.
I really dont think it is.
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ScottG
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01/20/20 09:24am |
Towing
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RE: Electric Slides Motor
The 120V breakers had nothing to do with it. You have a 12V auto-resetting breaker that is tripping for what ever reason and your problem is going to return.
I would find the 12V breaker and replace it (they're cheap). Otherwise you are going to get stuck someplace with the slide out.
The part will look something like these and you will need to get the amp rating off it: ***Link Removed***
Good luck,
Scott
Would there only be one of these auto resetting breakers?
Most often yes, they have just one but on rare occasions someone will install two in parallel.
I had one where they mounted the breaker under the trailer, next to the motor. Some others were mounted up near the front just behind the batterys. There are breakers designed to be installed in wet locations but they never seem to use them. Instead they use cheaper breakers designed to be installed inside. Those really dont do very well out in the weather and if they actually get road spray, they corrode.
Scott
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ScottG
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01/20/20 08:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: melting plug
So the smart plug hasn't been certified by UL or UL marine and they make no mention of the one I respect the most, CES. It has just "met their (UL) performance requirements". It still has no NEMA designation and is not included in the NEC - unless I missed it.
I guess time will tell.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 09:22pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: melting plug
It's sad but the industry's NEMA TT30R/P design is really under engineered IMHO. Many decades ago when it was created, there were no electric water heaters (in RV's) or micros, TV's, large battery chargers, etc. Just some lights and the occasional space heater. Then add in poor quality, off shore parts and it only gets worse.
We use a lot more of the capacity if these "trailer" circuits now and while they work OK when everything is perfect, they don't like running a constant load at anywhere close to their 30A rating.
It's too bad we can't switch over to the marine undustrys 30A receptacle for pedestals. It seems to hold up better.
The 30A twist lock used in marinas is worst than the RV 30. It is a 80 or 90 year old hospital design and routinely causes marina fires.
This is the new plug for marinas, however it would take years to convert everybody.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/smartplug--combo-inlet-connector-30a-125v-white--17415258?&mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3202694706&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-17415258&product_id=17415258&creative=108421552324&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&lid=92700049310972060&ds_s_kwgid=58700005416296602&ds_e_product_group_id=301382160878&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_e_ad_type=pla&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000007545409&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt-323veQ5wIVEf5kCh3GfQzyEAQYAiABEgK1FPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thanks, good to know. I guess I had my hopes up too much.
Wonder if the new one will ever catch on in the RV world...
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ScottG
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01/19/20 07:35pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Question about removing black tank
You'll have to measure.
The standard distance from the back wall to the center of the flange is 12.0" min.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 05:15pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: melting plug
It's sad but the industry's NEMA TT30R/P design is really under engineered IMHO. Many decades ago when it was created, there were no electric water heaters (in RV's) or micros, TV's, large battery chargers, etc. Just some lights and the occasional space heater. Then add in poor quality, off shore parts and it only gets worse.
We use a lot more of the capacity if these "trailer" circuits now and while they work OK when everything is perfect, they don't like running a constant load at anywhere close to their 30A rating.
It's too bad we can't switch over to the marine undustrys 30A receptacle for pedestals. It seems to hold up better.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 05:07pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Electric Slides Motor
Per the OP's first post, he has a travel trailer so there are none of the interlocks customary to a MH. Further, it has simple rack and pinion type slides so no controller.
Lastly, I'm sorry but some of your assumptions about DC motor current are not accurate.
IE, "lowering the voltage raises the amp draw of a motor". V=I*R. The "R" or resistance of the motor is set. The watts of the motor (P=I*V) is determined by the voltage and amps. It will only deliver the specified watts if the voltage and amps are the ones specified. So if you say a motor has 100 watts for example.....you can't say if I connect half the voltage to it, it will automatically double the amps. Doesn't work like that. The actual voltage and amps given to the motor determined by the RESISTANCE of the motor will determin your power (P=I*V) or ((V^2/R)=P) or (I^2*R=P) The first of the formulas are first and formost determinded by V=I*R. It rules it....it owns it. The other two formulas above have R in them.....these you can use. Take the second one ((V^2/R)=P) for example. We just went from 12 volts to 8 volts. Lets say for the sake of the argument.....the ohms (resistance) of your motor is 1 ohm. (12^2)/1=144 watts. Lower it to 8 volts.... (8^2)/1= 64 watts.
Source https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/current-draw-of-a-motor-under-different-situations.585336/
Cheers,
Scott
Well then disregard the interlock info. There IS a controller for the Rack and Pinion Slide. It may be hard to find (I had to use an electronic bloodhound) but there IS a controller of some kind the full motor current would melt the switch in the wall.
That the motor used by Power Gear increases current as speed drops is a proven fact..
Having visited you link I understand your confusion however. But I also studied motors and there are multiple types of motors.
For example one motor tries to run at a constant speed if you slow it down it will Draw more WATTS (normally this means more current) but try to maintain speed.
Another type of motor.. Well this one is used in electric lawn moweres and Black and Decker in the owner's manual yammered about a "Sensor" the increased motor power to handle taller grass.. Kind of made me laugh (Series wound motor) As the motor slows it REALLY draws more current (more watts too) so as to keep turning...
My little electric marched through knee high grass on a neighbor's yard his gas powered unit would not even touch..
I once worked in a feed mill.. The grinder no load full voltage abou 50 amps.. Feed it corn and it would easily hit 300-400 amps as the load increased and the mill slowed a bit.. I even have been trained as to why but alas. Have not refreshed that memory in many years.
As a retired EE from the aviation industry, I can assure you that *I* am not confused. It is you that is confusing AC and DC motors - 2 very different animals. The motors you wrote of have no bearing on this application.
The OP's slide has very simple DC motors. It has no circuit to increase power when needed and most of all, it does not draw more current when the voltage is low.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 04:49pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Would I ever be happy towing with a half ton truck
I actually plan on going to a so-called 1/2T.
My TT maxes out at about 9400# and when I replace my truck, I want to use one of the new Diesels. At this point they're evolution is not where I want them to be but they are getting closer with every model year.
I look forward to the better fuel efficiency, ride and overall comfort of the "lighter" truck.
For 8500# it would be really close. If you don't tow over mountain passes all the time like I do, I think a properly equiped 1/2T would do fine.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 09:30am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Question about moving fifth wheel
No way I would do that.
OTOH there is really no need to move it. I have seen them built over existing structures and even had one built on my own lot. While I did move my trailer out during the construction of my roof, it would not have been in the way if I had left it.
If the company doing the work is OK with it, just leave it in place.
EDIT, sorry - didn't see your update. Glad it worked out.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 09:23am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Question about removing black tank
It's a lot of work and no one can know exactly what they're getting into. If you can get anyone to consider such a job, he/she will either not wan't to provide an estimate or it will be extremely high to cover any eventuality.
And of course as Cavie suggested, the rig would be pretty much worthless after that. Just something to consider.
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ScottG
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01/19/20 09:18am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Electric Slides Motor
If the slides are power gear there are several interlocks and other things that can stop them.. NOTE not all interlocks are present on all systems and then there is the controller....
Ignition interlock, Some want it on. some off
Parking break interlock Some insist on parking brake set
Transmission interlock, only in park
Turn key interlock (mine failed, it's a basic switch)
These can become... iffy
Next is the switch.. Sometimes switches get dirty and won't switch and/or have to be presseed "Just so"
Now the controller
Power gear controllers sense current. If anything causes the current to climb above the set point they shut down.
LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE on a motor causes higher current.
Binding, some obstruction. Higher current.
End of travel.. Well that's a given stalling the motor = Higher current.
I know one would think that as voltage goes down so would current but Motors are variable inductors (Inductance varies with speed) and because of this the slower they go (lower voltage) the higher the current.
Per the OP's first post, he has a travel trailer so there are none of the interlocks customary to a MH. Further, it has simple rack and pinion type slides so no controller.
Lastly, I'm sorry but some of your assumptions about DC motor current are not accurate.
IE, "lowering the voltage raises the amp draw of a motor". V=I*R. The "R" or resistance of the motor is set. The watts of the motor (P=I*V) is determined by the voltage and amps. It will only deliver the specified watts if the voltage and amps are the ones specified. So if you say a motor has 100 watts for example.....you can't say if I connect half the voltage to it, it will automatically double the amps. Doesn't work like that. The actual voltage and amps given to the motor determined by the RESISTANCE of the motor will determin your power (P=I*V) or ((V^2/R)=P) or (I^2*R=P) The first of the formulas are first and formost determinded by V=I*R. It rules it....it owns it. The other two formulas above have R in them.....these you can use. Take the second one ((V^2/R)=P) for example. We just went from 12 volts to 8 volts. Lets say for the sake of the argument.....the ohms (resistance) of your motor is 1 ohm. (12^2)/1=144 watts. Lower it to 8 volts.... (8^2)/1= 64 watts.
Source https://www.physicsforums.com/threads/current-draw-of-a-motor-under-different-situations.585336/
Cheers,
Scott
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ScottG
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01/18/20 08:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Electric Slides Motor
The 120V breakers had nothing to do with it. You have a 12V auto-resetting breaker that is tripping for what ever reason and your problem is going to return.
I would find the 12V breaker and replace it (they're cheap). Otherwise you are going to get stuck someplace with the slide out.
The part will look something like these and you will need to get the amp rating off it: link
Good luck,
Scott
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ScottG
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01/18/20 03:20pm |
Tech Issues
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