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 > Your search for posts made by 'Siletzspey' found 19 matches.

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RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

Have you checked the RVIA electrical codes? I took a pass at trying to understand the relevant industry "codes / standards" and wire gauge x amperage tables, and my debrief WITH LINKS TO THOSE CODES is here. http://www.barbless.com/share/lifepo4/TJG-Wire-Fuse-Sizing.pdf Many codes that are stereotyped as "housing" codes do cover low voltage DC systems, and in fact are what the boating and RV standards build off of! IMHO the boating industry with its ABYC standard is the most comprehensive, mature and utilized standard for low voltage DC systems, not only for boats, but for RVs. The RVIA standard is sparse in comparison, and I've seen multiple comments that utilization of the RVIA standard is voluntary and sparse. IMHO the biggest misunderstandings on various forums are: 1) confusing VOLTAGE DROP tables with THERMAL CURRENT-LIMIT tables and 2) arguing that you only fuse to protect the wire, which means all RVs with 10AWG DC wiring rated at 105C should be fused at 60A. I'm not an expert, but I am putting my work WITH CITATIONS out for critical inspection and feedback. --tg
Siletzspey 08/31/21 10:06am Truck Campers
RE: 18" tire question - ANOTHER UPDATE

Are the Oregun snow cops that ambitious for this actually to be a thing? I care about my and everyone else's safety when going over snowy passes, and that the M+S and SnowPeak ratings are helpful. To date I have pulled 3 vehicles out of snowy ditches in the Oregon Cascades, and none had even M+S rated tires. During extreme snow events, especially on I5's Siskiyou Pass, the snow cops often check because it's typically people without the right tires that cause the passes to close down for a few hours each season.
Siletzspey 08/22/21 11:25am Truck Campers
RE: 18" tire question - ANOTHER UPDATE

While the selection of available 19.5" tires is not as good as consumer sizes, there are a number of "MT+Snowflake" winter rated tires available. You caused me to look again, and finally found a 19.5" tire that is officially rated for snow. Thanks. https://www.toyotires.com/commercial-truck/tire/pattern/m920-regional-and-urban-drive-tire
Siletzspey 08/16/21 10:55am Truck Campers
RE: 18" tire question - ANOTHER UPDATE

Google "Ford super duty truck source book". Long ago I found a PDF of the "source book" for my 2015 F350, which is where I got the 3590-lb wheel rating and 3640-lb tire rating. While talking with a local Les Schwab tire center, they said Ford/Dodge/etc "OEM" wheels tend to be honestly rated and robust, and most of the wheel failures they see are with 3rd party wheels where the ratings are suspect. When telling them I was at ~95% of wheel and tire capacity, they said I was fine, but if I was still inclined to worry and upgrade something, I should focus on the tires first. As NRALIFR notes, Ford seems to under-spec the axle ratings, so I don't worry about being at 7K on 7K rated axles.
Siletzspey 08/15/21 10:51pm Truck Campers
RE: 18" tire question - ANOTHER UPDATE

My 2015 F350 SRW 4x4 came with LT275/70R18 tires rated at 3640-lbs, and the wheels (rims) are rated for 3590-lbs. Ford publishes a spec book, and if you can find it via Googling, it has all the specs you could ever want (e.g. tail gate weight). I pondered going to 19.5", but the jump in total tire/wheel weight can be substantial and complicate DIY roadside repairs, and my friend at a Ford dealership warned the additional weight can cause problems with the spare tire cable hoist. 19.5" tires are also narrower, which I don't find favorable for my light off-road driving on soft/wet roads. 19.5" tires also have harder rubber, and while some are marketed as "mud and snow", I haven't found one yet that is formally rated M+S, which in some states is the minimum standard for avoiding chain-up on snowy passes/roads.
Siletzspey 08/15/21 05:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Custom truck camper tie down mounts?

Great replies. And if I think about my tall NorthernLite truck camper and side to side rocking alone, the current tie-downs have a side-to-side stance of ~8 feet wide, while a floor-based stance would be at best ~4 feet wide. The tugging and leveraging forces on any tie downs set at 4 feet apart would be *many times greater* than with an 8 foot stance. Truck beds also flex, and I suspect the truck camper companies and Torklift also take that into account, and have decades worth of failed setups they've learned from.
Siletzspey 07/21/21 11:02am Truck Campers
RE: Full hook up?

When not boondocking in our truck camper, we usually plug-in and then connect to fresh/black/gray/CableTV as needed or if we're not going to be using the camper for short drives nearby for awhile. When black/gray are connected, I keep the valves CLOSED most of the time. When I dump, I want a rush of water, and in some RV Parks it seems like there is positive air flow out of the sewer system which just fans up the black/gray smells if the valves are left OPEN. We often use the RV Park's shower since our TC's shower is cramped and I like to keep it dry as much as possible.
Siletzspey 06/22/21 10:40am Truck Campers
RE: Alaska advice

Actually since the OP is asking on the truck camper section, price might not be too bad. It's for a big RV where the ferry prices get kind of crazy. Following up on valhalla360's comment... Do the ferries charge extra for an "RV", and is a truck camper considered an "RV"? The web-site for the Bellingham WA > Valdez AK ferry among others makes it hard to find the answer and costs :-( --tg
Siletzspey 06/11/21 11:17am Truck Campers
RE: Battery charging concerns.

Does Closed AGM Weize 100 Ah battery requires ventilation? An AGM battery is a type of "Valve Regulated Lead Acid (VRLA)" battery. If you have a "good" charger properly regulating the volts and amps for AGM, then any generated gasses "should be" continually trapped and reabsorbed within the battery. If you're not careful, gasses can build up and the safety valves can vent the gasses. Having ventilation or at least being careful where you put the AGMs is not a bad idea! --tg
Siletzspey 05/17/21 11:42am Truck Campers
RE: Can't overcome the fear of buying a Truck and TC.......

Modulo some depreciation, my investment advisor reminded me to view some items not as throw away expenditures, but rather unusual assets in a diversified portfolio. Depreciated sell price - buy price + ENJOYMENT WHILE OWING = can be a good thing. Don't overthink a TC/RV as throwing money away!
Siletzspey 05/08/21 09:16am Truck Campers
RE: Are lithium batteries worth the cost?

... the lithium battery will absorb a lot of amps if you offer it up ... Technically, voltage is pushed at the battery, and based on how many volts successfully reach the battery, the battery decides how many amps it wants to pull (at that voltage). As hinted at above, Victron's burning-up alternator video is misleading in that it doesn't model in voltage drop, not to mention their pully gearing did not reflect what is typically installed in a truck, and they were running the alternator much slower than a truck at idle. Lead-acid batteries typically want ~12.6VDC before they start pulling any current. Battery University says 12.6VDC +/- 0.3VDC. LiFePO4 batteries typically want ~13.6VDC before they start pulling any current. Factoring in voltage drop... At ~13.6VDC from my 45A-capable Progressive Dynamics converter/charger with very short 4AWG wiring, my 100Ah x 2 BattleBorns at 50% SOC choose to pull ~4A total. At 13.6VDC, their thirst for current is minimal. Assuming ~50 feet (one way) of 10AWG wire between your truck alternator thru the 7-pin to the battery, and an alternator putting out 14.4VDC, by definition you can only put a ~8 amp load on the wire before the voltage drops to 13.6VDC, which put another way means you can hook any number of LiFePO4s to such a 7-pin setup and you won't exceed ~8 amps of pull. No wires fry, no alternator burns out, etc. Here is a link to the voltage drop calculation. Assuming ~35 feet (one way) of 4AWG thru say Anderson connectors, a 46 amp load will drop the voltage to 13.6VDC, hence you won't exceed 46A of pull no matter how many LiFePO4 you hook up and how massive your alternator is. Here is the updated calculation. All that said to counter the myth that LiFePO4s always burn up wires and alternators if direct wired (unless the wires are really big and short!), DC-to-DC converters do so many valuable things, including countering voltage drop. --tg
Siletzspey 04/27/21 11:12pm Truck Campers
RE: What is a “converter”?

Some "converters" are just simple-minded voltage converters (24VDC->12VDC) that lack the technology to *properly* monitor and charge a battery. Most if not all "chargers", in addition to possibly converting voltages up or down, know how to monitor a battery's charge level and apply the appropriate bulk, absorb, float and maintenance charges. It does seem many 120VAC->12VDC products are just called "converters" even though they have battery charging smarts too. And in the case of my Progressive Dynamics Inc. "converter with charge wizard", it can safely power things WITHOUT a battery. The upshot, the terminology is not 100% standard, and I'd say you need to make sure the specs call out battery charging if that's one of the things you want. --tg
Siletzspey 04/23/21 10:24pm Truck Campers
RE: Are lithium batteries worth the cost?

What are your requirements for powering things, and what are your opportunities for charging? Batteries just act as a reservoir and reserve of power between power-in and power-out. FLA and AGM batteries are great for many situations, and in other cases you'll only meet your need with LiFePO4. Some people look at the question in terms of total cost of ownership or $ per Ah, but you can have the most spend-thrift solution that isn't meeting your needs, and the most gold-plated solution that is overkill. For my truck camper and boondocking, 300W of solar in summer gives me a surplus of power in summer, and FLA/AGM would be fine. Come winter with solar production way down and furnace times way up, I could only survive long stints with LiFePO4, hence I went LiFePO4 despite the cost. --tg
Siletzspey 04/21/21 11:28am Truck Campers
RE: BINOCULARS

For "birding", 8x42 is the best all around size, and some birders like me also have 10x42 for open range and big water birds like hawks and loons. As others have said, the optics have gotten radically better in recent years. All the good features and build characteristics creep into the picture with $200-$400 binocs, and IMHO you have most everything including exceptional optics in the $400-$600 range. The $2K binocs do get better, but not 2-3x better! I went with Nikon Monarch 7s. The 8x42s have an exceptionally wide field of view which helps me locate birds better vs looking thru too narrow a tube to lock in on a bird. --tg
Siletzspey 04/10/21 09:28pm Truck Campers
RE: Advice to reduce truck camper sway (2018 Ram 2500)

... outboard mounting location can reduce sway ... airbags that mount inside the coils do little to reduce sway ... +1. A number of people have reported increased sway after mounting airbags, and it would be curious if this is exclusive to those that mount inside the coils or leafs.
Siletzspey 02/09/21 11:23am Truck Campers
RE: Advice to reduce truck camper sway (2018 Ram 2500)

I upgraded my F350 sway bar and the improvement was significant! Since I had a factory sway bar, I went with a RoadMaster upgrade which let me reuse my existing sway bar drop-downs. Previously installed StableLoads took some side-to-side sway out, but mostly they just helped bring the rear up to level.
Siletzspey 02/08/21 06:25pm Truck Campers
RE: How much weight could be eliminated?

I swapped out 2 FLA batteries for 2 LFPs and saved 66 pounds. And to gain the full benefit of the LFPs I upgraded some copper wiring, but that added back 50 pounds. --tg
Siletzspey 01/11/21 11:44pm Truck Campers
RE: House and Engine Battery -Update 2-Surge? REGEN threat!

Someone mentioned this thread, so I'm jumping in mid-stream. Pardon if I missed some context. Regarding "load dumps"... there may be some well known BOAT concerns creeping into some RV discussions. BOATS are famous for having multiple battery banks behind a big "A":"B":":"A+B" red selector switch, in part so one battery bank can sit disconnected in reserve. If the selection switch is used while the alternator is running, the alternator can be toasted by 100VDC+ voltage spikes when a load dump occurs between the switch breaking and making contacts. With the introduction of LiFePO4 batteries with BMS's that can suddenly disconnect, this general class of topic is starting to come up more and more in the RV world. Without a more modern charger in the mix, spikes towards your alternator and your RV electronics can occur when a BMS disconnects. I don't know if having a lead acid battery in the mix (next to the alternator) partially or fully clamps the spike. Sterling's alternator protector is just a voltage clamp device. Here is someone's attempt to better explain the load dump problem (~2/3rds down in the article). It is sales pitchy, but some of the points are good. https://marinehowto.com/understanding-the-sterling-power-pro-batt-ultra-battery-to-battery-charger/ Wrt other merits of a DC-to-DC charger. I posted the following to a nearby forum. FLA batteries start to accept a charge and pull amps at 12.6V, but LFP batteries start that process at 13.6V, a whole volt higher. Depending on your alternator's voltage output and the voltage drop in your wiring, LFP could charge SLOWER than FLA, and FLP charging could fail to reach 100% SOC where-as FLA could. With my 45A Progressive Dynamics Inc charger running in FLA mode, my old ~200Ah of FLA would pull 18A over 10ga wiring. Still running in FLA mode, my 200Ah of BB LFP at 30% SOC only pulls 4A over shorter and bigger 8ga wiring. Putting the charger into boost/LFP mode (boost the voltage) increases the pull to 39A. Point being, same charger, the LiFePO4 charge rate is 1/4th the flooded-acid rate. Sterling (maker of DC-to-DC alternator chargers) has some nice videos on YouTube where they wire LFP direct to an alternator with ~4ga wire, and the charging rate is pathetic. Then they insert a DC-to-DC charger in the line and the charge rate jumps substantially, because the charger can re-boost the voltage. All in all, current is pulled based on volts being delivered. For 7-pin systems, the Achilles heel is voltage. Solve the voltage problems first, and then you can start to worry about the current problems next. --tg
Siletzspey 12/28/20 10:48am Tech Issues
RE: "Newer" Ford trucks don't charge house batt's?

... how long will the standard 7 way pin system take to recharge Li batteries? Same time as "ordinary" batteries. ... FLA batteries start to accept a charge and pull amps at 12.6V, but LFP batteries start that process at 13.6V, a whole volt higher. Depending on your alternator's voltage output and the voltage drop in your wiring, LFP could charge SLOWER than FLA, and FLP charging could fail to reach 100% SOC where-as FLA could. With my 45A Progressive Dynamics Inc charger running in FLA mode, my old ~200Ah of FLA would pull 18A over 10ga wiring. Still running in FLA mode, my 200Ah of BB LFP at 30% SOC only pulls 4A over shorter and bigger 8ga wiring. Putting the charger into boost/LFP mode (boost the voltage) increases the pull to 39A. Point being, same charger, the LiFePO4 charge rate is 1/4th the flooded-acid rate. Sterling (make of DC-to-DC alternator chargers) has some nice videos on YouTube where they wire LFP direct to an alternator with ~4ga wire, and the charging rate is pathetic. Then they insert a DC-to-DC charger in the line and the charge rate jumps substantially, because the charger can re-boost the voltage. All in all, current is pulled based on volts being delivered. For 7-pin systems, the Achilles heel is voltage. Solve the voltage problem, and then you can start to worry about current problems. --tg
Siletzspey 12/28/20 12:28am Truck Campers
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