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 > Your search for posts made by 'Siletzspey' found 15 matches.

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RE: Anyone made the dive to Lithium and had it in four seasons?

Would you mind providing pictures and descriptions of equipment procured and set up, it sounds like you have it dialed in for what I’m looking to do. Attached are two diagrams with embedded comments. I personally felt 60A of alternator charging into 2 x 100Ah batteries was adequate, and that I was avoiding some safety, longevity and cost issues by NOT pushing for 100A+ of charging. I was shooting for a happy medium. While the 2AWG wire and Sterling charger are mostly installed, I have not yet turned that part of the system on. I have been stunned at how well 300W of solar into 200Ah of LiFePO4 has been working. --tg
Siletzspey 10/10/20 12:15pm Truck Campers
RE: Anyone made the dive to Lithium and had it in four seasons?

use of the second alt ... big ga. wire ... 7-pin The challenge is battling "voltage drop" over long lengths of charger wires. Though a typical alternator puts out ~14.4V, that voltage drops to 13.some volts over a typical 7-pin setup where the NEG and POS wires are typically 10-12ga. My 2015 F350 has 10ga for NEG/POS, and be warned some umbilical cords use down to 16ga for POS/NEG. Below 13.6V delivered volts, a LiFePO4 won't really pull current and thus charge. Ideally you want 14.4V+ delivered volts for a LiFePO4 battery to quickly and fully charge, and to enable the LiFePO4 BMS to do cell balancing. For lead acid batteries, most people report getting 5-10A of anemic charging off the 7-pin, and I believe the 7-pin connectors themselves are only rated for ~30A, and truck manufacturers usually fuse the POS wire at 30-40A. Some people run LARGE (1/0AWG+) dedicated copper wires thru say Anderson Connectors, but don't under-estimate the weight and EXPENSE of such a setup, and you'll often still be getting suboptimal voltages. At 45' one-way of 1/0AWG wire, 14.4V drops to 13.9V under a hypothetical 60A load. The increasingly common approach is to install a DC-to-DC charger that can boost the voltage coming off your wiring into what the LiFePO4s want for optimal charging, and it can limit the current draw on your alternator. Speaking of a second alternator... picking on a 100Ah BattleBorn, the max-max charge rate is 100A, and the recommended max charge rate is 50A, and the longevity of the battery can be further increased by not even pushing 50A. It begs the question, how big will your battery bank be? Two or eight 100Ah batteries? How fast do you want to charge? With my 2 100Ah BattleBorns, I went with a 60A DC-to-DC charger so that each gets 30A, and if a battery BMS happens to shut off, dumping all 60A into a single battery won't be fatal. 60A into the batteries translates into a load of 60-80A on the alternator, which is well within the ability of a single and typical 200A truck alternator to deliver. With just 60A of charging for a 200Ah bank, I don't need to drive much to recharge from empty. --tg
Siletzspey 10/08/20 12:20pm Truck Campers
RE: Northern Lite 10-2000 stolen in Seattle

Here's a nice write-up on the "relay attack". In this particular write-up, they seem to focus on proximity-style FOBs where you don't need to press a button to do something. Further, they say while a thief can start your car and drive off, they cannot restart the car, so they're really limited to one joy ride. Again, I think there IS a vulnerability, but I'm questioning if for 2008+ Ford trucks its much of a practical concern. --tg
Siletzspey 10/04/20 12:41pm Truck Campers
RE: Northern Lite 10-2000 stolen in Seattle

Whenever I Google this topic, it seems companies like Ravelco correctly point out that Fords have been the most popular SELLING trucks for decades, but then cleverly fail to mention that the vast majority of stolen Ford trucks are 2007 and older, and that Ford FOBs since have been much harder to crack. I do see technical articles mentioning "relay attacks" on the newer FOBs, which based on my cybersecurity work smells of what is called a "man in the middle attack" when using asymmetric ciphers like RSA. While it DOES appear hackers/thieves can buy devices to do a "man in the middle" aka "relay" attack on newer key FOBs, it's not clear it's widely practical, and more importantly that the hacker/thief can actually start the truck after opening the door with the faked FOB signal. I'm curious if others know factually that 2008+ Ford Trucks are being stolen at alarming rates, of if it's just over-hyped from 2007 and older Ford Trucks being stolen. And at least on my 2015 F350, and as the auto security experts recommend, you can still manually key in/out without transmitting FOB signals, if you're really worried about someone capturing the FOB signals. The downside is, I don't think the audible alarm arms when you manually lock the doors. --tg
Siletzspey 10/04/20 12:30pm Truck Campers
RE: The shorter the center of gravity, the better right?

When towing boats and trailers, the general rule is 10% of the weight onto the hitch for stability and other reasons. Is there a similar rule-of-thumb for truck campers in a truck bed? My 9'6" NL in a long bed F350 SRW puts about 10% on the front axle, and 90% on the rear axle. I'm at 88% capacity of front axle rating, and 95% rear axle rating. --tg
Siletzspey 04/30/20 06:29pm Truck Campers
RE: Fantastic fan with no thermostat?

What model of Fantastic Fan (FF) do you have? On my FF, the remote control lets me set a speed (13 possible speeds) or a temperature, and it automatically opens/closes the lid and has a rain sensor. Without the remote, the fan unit has a manual open/close knob but no other controls, and manually opening the lid will turn the fan full on. I'm sure the rain sensor would close the lid upon rain. I have no idea if the last temperature set BY THE REMOTE would still be utilized when manually opening the lid. --SiletzSpey
Siletzspey 04/20/20 11:31am Truck Campers
RE: this 20 ton bottle jack? this air compressor?

I would avoid the $30 Chinese bottle-jacks, as reports of failures are semi-common. As it turns out, older Ford Superduty and current Ford Sprinter Vans come with either a Ford OEM YELLOW 4-Ton or RED 6-Ton bottle-jack, 2-stage. I went to my local Ford dealership and confirmed you can buy them new from Ford for about $200, and confirmed they were in the new Sprinter Vans on the lot. Many of these jacks end up in junk yards and on eBay for ~$50. I bought the RED 6-Ton, and the two stage action goes from a squat 8" to tall 18-1/2". Home Depot and others sell a BLUE "Ford" 6-Ton bottle-jack for ~$25, but I'm cynical it's actually a Ford OEM jack, and am certain it's quality is far less than the YELLOW and RED jacks. Search on eBay, and you'll see the YELLOW and RED jacks. I'm also keeping the simple screw jack in my F350. The screw jack might be able to support the weight of truck+camper on one wheel, but the issue is how physically demanding it will be to turn the crank when so much weight is present. For a given weight, the higher duty jack will be easier to crank/lever. --SiletzSpey
Siletzspey 04/05/20 12:03pm Truck Campers
RE: Cleaning NL (fiberglass) shell

This is the Process For Applying Zep. Looking at some boat forums, it looks like Zep is highly regarded (!), but some users are saying at best it lasts 1-2 years more than wax, and then you're in for a bigger job to strip the old and apply the new. Frosting and peeling were two issues raised. Still, I'm curious what others have experienced on campers. Re-waxing the sides is easy enough, but I'd love a longer lived roof coating. --SiletzSpey
Siletzspey 03/25/20 05:48pm Truck Campers
RE: you like Torklift StableLoads? / Upper, lower or BOTH?

With a 2015 Ford F350 SRW and NorthernLite 9.6, my rated payload was 3,885, and fully loaded camper, truck and people/pets was 4,000 total. Adding 2 of the 3 lower StableLoad bars/wedges was all I needed, and the factory over-leaf bumper just touched. I did just 2 wedges, since that's all that would fit naturally in the spring gaps when the truck was unloaded. Other than the over-leaf bumpers making knocking sounds when on bumpy roads, the support and leveling is excellent. I later added a RoadMaster sway bar, which profoundly reduced sway to near zero! I purposely avoided air-bags, since they have been known to increase porpoising and sway.
Siletzspey 02/14/20 11:35am Truck Campers
RE: Anyone have a wiring diagram for a Northern Lite camper?

Wow, nice work Thomas. Will you leave the 1-Wire sensors in or were they for characterization? Bob Thanks! I plan to leave the temperature sensor grid in so I can get more furnace duty-cycle figures for the NL community. Others are tinkering with basement fans to move hot air around during extreme cold, so I plan to follow suit with two 0.075A PC fans. I also brought some humidity and volatile gas sensors online, but have yet to play experiments with stove-time v vent-fan time. It's fun. --tg
Siletzspey 12/23/19 06:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Anyone have a wiring diagram for a Northern Lite camper?

While working on a NL 9'6" QSE lithium upgrade design, and with input from others, I put together a power calculator that happens to show what is on each DC fuse, and separately a rough wiring diagram of the NL in its OEM state (see p.4). Please yell if you see a mistake, or can help clarify the red items. --tg
Siletzspey 12/17/19 08:50pm Truck Campers
RE: 2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Electrical Upgrade/Solar Advice

Hi VT94. We seem to be pondering similar things, modulo I'm in a Northern Lite (a fiberglass cousin to your Big Foot), and have decided to jump to Lithium. I posted my MS-Excel power calculator and tentative upgrade plans in this thread. --tg
Siletzspey 12/06/19 03:23pm Truck Campers
RE: Northern Lite Camper Power Use Calculator

... the system will keep cycling automatic breaker. Hi Kayteg. Do you have just the 7-pin outlet, or did you add a separate high-current line (2/0ga)? Is the breaker you speak of associated with the 7-pin line, or high-current line, or the converter? If your jacks are tied directly to the batteries, I would expect the batteries would take most of the load, and you shouldn't be blowing any charging fuses. Where I'm still under-informed is how motors and inverters can demand a current spike when first turned on, and I believe motors can generate a spike when turned off. --SiletzSpey
Siletzspey 12/06/19 03:06pm Truck Campers
RE: Northern Lite Camper Power Use Calculator

Curious whether you've had a chance to check your maximum charge current (and voltage) from your converter ... you may find the results somewhat disappointing. Indeed. See p.2 of my LFP upgrade plan, where I included shore and alternator estimates reported by other NL owners. Indeed, very disappointing! Where safe and possible, my LFP plan is for 4ga and shorter wiring distances. BTW, the 4 Happijacs (with the new direct drive motors) draw approx. 25a when lifting our 8-11... Thanks for the feedback. I'll roll that into the next spreadsheet rev. The "factory interview" numbers seemed to be for twice the weight of our NLs, so a drop from 40A to 25A seems reasonable. --SiletzSpey
Siletzspey 12/06/19 02:58pm Truck Campers
RE: 2000 Bigfoot 10.6 Electrical Upgrade/Solar Advice

My future plan was to add a 2nd LiFePo4 ... When adding a 2nd battery, and then naturally wanting to push twice the charging amps, what concerns are there that one battery's BMS might take that battery offline (e.g. it's own temp drops below 32), and the remaining current-greedy battery decides to absorb twice what it should? It does seem like the "recommended" LiFePo4 charging rate is 0.5C, and the max-max charging rate is 1.0C, so if the dual charge rate is 0.5C, then worst case when a battery temporarily drops out, the remaining battery will be hit with 1.0C, which while more than recommended, is still supposed to be non-fatal. --tg
Siletzspey 12/05/19 05:20pm Truck Campers
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