Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Slowmover' found 37 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Prev
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Not your dad's Airstream

My wife and I looked through some Airstreams at an rv show a couple of years ago. Holy ****! the cheapest one there was over 79K. They are just way too cramped on the inside. The aisle front to back was no wider than the aisle in the 1963 19ft Airstream we used to have. You're just paying for the name. How long do you expect to travel this way? Five years? Thirty? Because you’ll pay far more buying multiple WalMart campers over a long period. Finance & depreciation just to start ruins your picture. “New” is always more expensive. Also, unnecessary with this end of things. My competitor Silver Streak turned thirty last year and it’s “better” than any five year old conventional. A 10-12 year old AS is about bottomed out on depreciation. And new enough to not need much. If it needs anything at all. (Landfill time for a conventional). THAT is where to start a search. Are you going to cover no more than 70k miles or so during a few years of camping? Then a conventional kept garaged might work. Or will it be 250k over twenty years or more? Only one trailer design-type meets that pair of numbers. Done right, maybe two tow vehicles in that time. Cars or SUVs. Not rollover-prone pickups. Better stability towing. Better stability solo. How expensive is risk reduction? Cheaper, when planned from beginning. . .
Slowmover 03/14/20 10:59pm Travel Trailers
RE: Not your dad's Airstream

Very nicely done just not out cup of tea. The wife enjoys her square footage. She likes doing more cleaning. You like trying to heat or cool more (unused) space.
Slowmover 03/14/20 10:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can we pull a TT with our ‘20 Suburban

“Simplicity” is in understanding how a WD hitch works. Thus far not on display in this thread. “Payload” isn’t applicable. “Tow rating” the same Both are advertising. Not fact. Neither are legal or insurance problems. Go back to my earlier post. Get real numbers. Establish facts. Not RVer fantasy. Weight isn’t a problem in trailer towing. That was solved in 1967. Getting the hitch rigging correct is something not a other single contributor to this thread understands. It’s not rocket science. It’s leverage. And it’s predictable based on formula. How much the travel trailer weighs won’t be a problem. But having a stable tow rig, is. That can be tested. Same for a decrease in braking distance versus being unhitched (tow vehicle otherwise the same). No test? No advice worth the electrons. . .
Slowmover 01/27/20 09:21pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can we pull a TT with our ‘20 Suburban

Cargo capacity and tow capacity are advertising numbers. No applicability. 1). Get Cat Scale phone app. Empty vehicle of all but that whichbis permannt during your ownership. 2). At truck stop, fill tank. Driver only, cross scale. Park, go inside to get Scale ticket. 3). Take pics of Scale tkt and DOOR sticker showing axle capacity. 4). The difference between the TARE axle weights and the limits tells how much “capacity” is afforded. 5). The use of a WD hitch is to “equalize” the TW across the three axle . 6). At or a little above 70% of the TW will be on the TV after WD properly set. The balance to the TT axles. 7). On the TV, the TW will have — ideally 10% — a slight bias to the Drive Axle (or is even FF/RR). A 1,000-lb is the province of cars and medium SUVs. It’s no challenge. Trailer loaded for camping ( with max propane + fresh water), and TV loaded for camping plus all passengers, one uses the scale to have the Steer Axle weight the sane whether hitched or unhitched. Trailer weight isn’t ever the problem. Today’s vehicles are grossly overpowered compared to forty or fifty years ago. BOF or unit body makes no difference. 90% plus can’t get the hitch rigging correct. And believe ad copy. Steering control is what matters. Brakes are second. Throttle is next to meaningless. Done right your rig will stop faster than when unhitched (same TV load). Steering comes down to how good or bad the TV design (4WD solid axle pickup worst). Upgrading trailer to Dexter TorFlex or MOR/Ryde IS should be a mandatory first step. With antilock disc trailer brakes . The leading cause of accidents is winds. Driver overreacting. High COG TV just makes it MORE likely, not less. The long-wheelbase pickup leads the group for rollovers. Trailer SHAPE is what matters. None of these TTs are any burden as to weight. It’s their stability (suspension & aero) that is important. 5k or 10k. Not much difference with a good design. But a square box on leaf springs is just a problem waiting to happen (slide outs make it worse). . A heavier TV won’t help. Length, not weight, is what traps winds (sail area = push).
Slowmover 01/21/20 12:47pm Travel Trailers
RE: Gas station guide

Another tool (phone app): TRUCKERS PATH What I use for work. As noted above, “travel center” is the better term than truck stop. These businesses cater to all. 1). Location Choose based on some distance from major metro areas. At least 75-miles to avoid most commuters and regional delivery plus contractors. The ideal location is in the same direction of travel. Backups can occur when there are several truck stops clustered at an exit and it’s still a one-lane over the Interstate. 2). Time of Day Most truckers are up and gone by 0800. Most commuters gone by 0900. The next couple of hours are slowest. Mid-day sees trucking jerks using the big truck diesel lanes to accomplish their mandated 30-minute break (versus using a parking spot). Backups start to occur, and might last into evening dependent on location (staying away from cities thus key). It’s not always the reason (some lanes are just flat busy). But, be assured that by 1600 many drivers are finishing their day. Some do this by buying fuel before parking for the night. This lasts till past 2100. Nationwide, the hours 0800-1100 are the LAST hours traffic volume is low enough to make decent headway (highest average MPH). From 1100 until almost 2300 the plague of cars never subsides (apparently no one has a job). 3). How to Use There’s no parking at the pumps (unless one is an American by virtue of paperwork). Use the satellite provision of T-Path to scroll down tightly to figure post-fuel parking, if needed. I wouldn’t. Buy fuel and leave. It’s not a vacation if more is necessary. You already carry food and have a bathroom. At these businesses one pays for convenience. That they have, and rightly charge for it. If buying fuel is part of the mandatory 4-hour break, then choose location based on proximity to where you’ll shortly pull over for lunch. 4). What brand? For my money I’d choose Petro T/A over the competition. Most fuel lanes (plus a C-store out there); indoor sit-down restaurant, mechanic on duty, greatest range of services. Tends to long term employees. Pilot & Loves are glorified C-stores. More locations, though. And more likely on non-Interstate routes (especially Loves). Discounted fuel (not the pump price) is the attraction. Driver competition can be fierce getting in & out. Flying J is okay. They make noise about being RV friendly, but I in my observations, that’s more luck than reality. They can be heavily-used and ARE NOT staffed to meet high demand. I like them well enough, but only use them for overnight parking when my time is no longer a concern. For any of these, set up accounts if possible. Otherwise one needs to pay in advance if using the truck lanes. It’s easy to fill my CTD at those; and parking is a few steps away and AWAY from the far worse (inconsiderate) car travelers. Exits & Entrance to the truck lanes is ONLY via signs directing Truck traffic. Auto is a separate entrance, and there should be no cross-flow between the types. 5). Price It’s the foolish RV’er who’s chasing pennies by trying to find the lowestc priced fuel. Can it be reduced 10-15 PERCENT? No. Thus the heightened risk of accidents and time lost plus aggravation. Travel Centers (truck stops) make for a fast re-fuel with minimal time off the road. Using them early in the day (as you’ll be finished by 1500 anyway) is the prudent approach. T-Path also features reviews, and while they don’t always apply to RV’ers, THERE ARE those locations you might want to use where sat pic has you head-scratching, and bad reviews about trucker use change your mind to find another spot instead. T-Path also features a WalMart locator plus other services. Just choose filter. I set up company-directed fuel providers to trip plan, and then use the major chains to determine overnight parking as last. W-M I use to shop on the usual 5-6 week trips. (As with fuel I DO IT AWAY FROM CITIES).
Slowmover 12/16/19 02:34am General RVing Issues
RE: Sway Control options - help please

Ron Gratz did this up years ago, I borrowed his Three Pass Scale Method and have pushed it heavily as it gives an unparalleled picture to the operator and all others who wish to help. On the same day, consecutively: 1). Loaded for camping. Max fuel. Full propane & fresh water. All passengers aboard. Cross the CAT SCALE (get phone app) with hitch adjusted (tensioned) as at present. 2). Cross scale second time, EVERYTHING the same; EXCEPT all tension removed from hitch (don’t remove). 3). Drop trailer. Return to scale third time. Solo truck where all is as in (1). See CAT website for any directions you may need. At end, go inside and get the three paper copies of the scale tickets. Post the four lines of info from each as above. Also, from the TV door sticker: the axle limits Steer & Drive (front & rear). Me, I’d start beforehand by using Andy Thomson's HITCH HINT column, “How to Set Your Torsion Bars”, from the RVLife article as my way to get the hitch roughed in at home. That, with the hitch manufacturers instructions. (Hitch bead tilted as far back as possible, one example) Then, before setting out, get the cold overnight tire pressure readings. Once at the scale the actual load on each TV axle (with any hitch corrections) gives me the COFRECT basis for tire pressure (trailer tires are ALWAYS to maximum). The result here is a start. A baseline. We’d like to see the STEER AXLE weight in #1 & #3 to be the same. If they aren’t, adjust the hitch until it’s close. This is where one makes evaluations which can be repeated. The highway feel is (will be once you’re finished) as if on rails. Braking will also be improved. To the point you stop faster than the loaded tow vehicle while solo. Get the tools. Borrow a friend (many heads make confusion more pleasurable) to do the rough-in. A SHERLINE Scale is a tool many of us like. The Dual Cam is the original, and still the best of the obsolete hitches. (A Hensley-patent hitch superceded them all more than 20-years back). At the end, the WD is traditionally 1/3-1/3-1/3. Not perfectly, but enough that set is a rule of thumb. And it’s why an 1,100-lb TW is the province of cars. It’s not a problem and hasn’t been since the latter 1960s. Do the work. Get the numbers as above. .
Slowmover 12/11/19 07:02pm Towing
RE: What brands of Travel Trailers are NEW & Quality

Just read this entire thread and I see several votes for the ORV/Northwood trailers made in Oregon. After a totally horrible experience with a Forest River R-pod, we did a lot of research. Our son guided us toward the ORV and we would have bought one, but the smallest one they make was bigger than we wanted, and we definitely did not want a slide. Thus, we turned to other company started by Ron Nash, RIP, Northwood RV. The Nash 17k seemed perfect for us, so we found a dealer 200 miles away who had one, and we bought it! We had no plans of camping in winter weather, but an unexpected medical problem has us camping for 2 months away from home in winter weather and we are mostly glad we have this trailer. It is so well insulated and built so that the propane heater keeps the holding tanks warm enough. We bought a blue heated hose and added extra wrapping to the connection and the small faucet and so far, all is well. The quality of everything is so superior to what we had before! But we do have a couple of problems with the wiring that should not have happened and we will get them fixed after we leave here. We need to either find a good dealer somewhere, or we will go back to the factory. In our small town, our local RV repair people could not find the problem. When the heater turns on, it blows out the little fuse in the digital thermostat. Since we had to have heat, and needed in NOW, they pulled the two heater wires out of the digital thermostat and attached them to an old analog thermostat. It works. We also have to run the cable TV through the kitchen window. These things WILL be fixed under warranty and meantime, we LOVE the full size queen bed with a great mattress. :-) For a small trailer, it is heavy, but it follows well behind our Tundra even while it sucks gas. Overall, we recommend a Northwood product and our son has been extremely happy with his ORV. BTW-- many years ago we owned a fiberglass Casita and it was trouble free. We took it across country and way down into Mexico and more. If they only made one a bit bigger, we would have bought another one without hesitation. Oliver & Big Foot. I don’t understand the desire for “new” when older can be found that is distinctly better. And always will be. No one is any longer making trailers the quality of Streamline (1974), Silver Streak (1997) or Avion (1990). Airstream ain’t in the running at this level and never was. Never meant to be. SS never made more than six trailers per week. AS is General Motors by comparison. That said, an AS ten years or a bit more has depreciation gone. And may need only some cosmetics to be like new. Plenty of them out there. Huge owners group. Tow beautifully. Mine’s thirty years old this year. I’ll put it against anything from the generic box manufacturers that’s five years old. As the 1989 boxes hit the landfill before Obama took office. If I were in the market for brand new, a BIGGER Big Foot would be my default. But they don’t make one a full-timer like me wants. Lacks size, amenities & storage (that the aluminum trailers don’t). ORV is okay enough. But they all need conversion to DEXTER Tor-Flex independent suspension. Today’s trailers with slide-outs for fatties ride FAR higher on ready-to-roll leaf spring suspensions that wear out quickly. Conversion to anti-lock disc brakes is the other upgrade. And, as the hitch rigging is EQUAL in importance to the two vehicles, get a aHensley-patent hitch at the start. It’s a requirement for a pickup as tow vehicle. That disc brakes & a sway-eliminating hitch aren’t topics with FAR more threads than tow vehicles shows the ignorance level of supposedly “seasoned” RVers. The new guys with their twenty years. The he number one cause of trailering accidents is loss of control. And that loss of control is due to wind. The worst combo on the road is the tall teeter-totter box of today. (5ers worse; toyhaulers worst). Pay attention to what really matters: Steering control & braking. .
Slowmover 12/11/19 06:38pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof: Not leaking, but 20 yrs old

Get a moisture meter, probe-equipped. And go over the floor/wall joint, every foot. You’ll likely find what you don’t want. The time to do so (assuming outdoor uncovered storage) is after a period of prolonged rain. Not the high heat of summer. I’d also keep a hygrometer mounted inside. Fall thru spring can show elevated humidity. Which may not be a leak, but sure worsens one. (I’ve always kept a large floor-rolling dehumidifier in a trailer. Can take more than a week to bring saturated air down under 40%; all cabinetry/storage opened). The roof is a good idea. But window/door/compartment seals are also in need of replacement. Awnings? Usually have to be removed. Roof penetrations? Best to redo them all. The roof is but one part. .
Slowmover 12/11/19 06:17pm Travel Trailers
RE: Upgraded my tow vehicle, do I still need a WDH?

What “Ford says” doesn’t mean much. Never did. Has zero legal or insurance consequences. You own and operate it, you’re the one responsible. Ford will be happy to hear that they can fire their hundreds of lawyers and engineers based on what some guy on the Internet "thinks" or "feels". Some guy, huh? Unlike you, one with commercial experience. Where the law obtains is in regards wheel/axle & tire limits. Payload and tow rating are laughable in regards how to use and set a WDH. They don’t apply. I used to run a DRW Dodge in the oilfield. GCVWR was 20,000-lbs. My loaded trailer —alone — weighed more than that most of the time. Means I was often above 32,000-lbs. 1). Was this a concern to Commercial Vehicle Enforcement? 2). Was this a concern to the weigh stations in Texas and all surrounding states? 3). Was this a concern for insurers covering commercial liability? 4). Was this a concern to the Dodge dealership? No. Not once. Not ever. Not to anyone with a lick of sense. That truck & trailer ran roads I’d never take my own down. And it (and its fleet mates) did it for over 300k on average. Without undue wear rates (given how hard we ran; vacationers we weren’t), still, they were done at about 3-3.5/years. Are you one of those guys wants a guarantee from someone else for your behavior? Because that’s your argument. If you screw up, it’s Fords fault. Mighty admirable. But we’ve covered this with you before. Some random guy on the Internet with a make-believe fear. (Failure to think. To investigate). .
Slowmover 12/11/19 06:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Ford 6.7L 1050 ft lbs TQ at 1,600 rpm, 475 HP at 2,800 rpm

2004 Dodge 555TQ quarter-mile = 16.8 seconds 2019 Ram 1000TQ quarter-mile = 16.4 seconds. Is the Ford doing 12’s, or is the story the same? Since horsepower is the measure of work that is done, why the TQ stuff? Where’s the meat? What justifies the expense? It costs 2-3X as much but it’s still no quicker than before DESPITE paper number increases. Where’s the decrease in fuel burn as the offset? How many cooling systems? Expected maintenance cost over its 350k life? Price per mile of operation? It’s all higher and more difficult. Where’s the technological advantage (leverage) that reduces operational cost against higher purchase price? As that’s the criteria for replacing a tired vehicle. Otherwise, fix it up and soldier on. I was hauling 22k trailers with that earlier version. 300k miles of get-it-there-yesterday oilfield. Are you (anyone) going to tell me, “well, it’s faster up the hill”(?). You’ll get silence in return as that’s not worth a reply. That’s for the Utube stoopids. You guys aren’t getting any better solo mileage in some cases than I am when bobtail in a 21,000-lb Peterbilt at highway speeds. Twice as heavy with twice the motor. Over 12-feet tall. Man, is that a laugh, or what? I have days where, with no adverse winds and 30k in the box (55k gross), I’m still in double-digits at 66-mph. Automated manual and never off cruise. Think about that when I pass you. The price and “performance “ of these trucks is a joke. You’ve been had. Start over. At the end that matters: the trailer. It’s telling that a common complaint I’ve seen the past sixteen years on this forum is that a trailer designed to travel 250k miles (6-7X farther than a stapled box) before re-build and to have reduced HP demand all the while, “doesn’t have enough interior room”. You are going camping. Shirt sleeve weather. Being in the great outdoors. . How big a bed do you need? Or chair? Why would anyone want more space to heat, clean and cool? Trailers of my type don’t in the least lack for space or amenities. Know how to tell a **** RV at a glance? The high ratio of floor footage against window area. And the lousy interior sightlines from any seated position. It’s the lifetime of the trailer that matters (some recent post about having bought five —FIVE—RVs over thirty years!? Could have had just one. Paid for it long ago. Used it right to the end), as the expense of ownership drops with every year of use. Minimal maintenance. I have all of $30k into the combined price of my rig. Knew what to buy and how to buy it (cash). Knew what I’d need to do or not to maintain factory quality in furnishings. So if I wind up having spent double that, (take me awhile to figure out HOW), I still only have $60k into both. And all my ownership costs are lower. On an RV with a lifespan as long or longer than my own. If I decided I wanted to I could probably pass any of you while on the road. With more control at every extra mph. (Aero has huge advantages). What’s the least stable towed RV on the market? A fifth wheel with 4WD pulling it. The only one actually worse is a JACKED UP 4WD yanking a tail-heavy “toyhauler”. Passing everyone without the first clue of how to do it. Good thing most of you don’t have or use a CB. Hearing, “Baby Daddy southbound and flying at the 377-MM”, means only one thing: none of those poor children has a father. What? You don’t believe me? Tell you what, you run along at 62mph or so and I’ll come in so close with my rig you’ll ****. And I’ll have another directly behind me do the same. With a box truck as finale. At 75+. My RV will stay upright. Yours won’t. (As that’s pretty much jail time and career-ending, the only reason you haven’t experienced it has been partly luck. As it does happen). Detroit & Elkhart aren’t your friends. They exist to take as much they can. The used market offers a lot more than anyone in this thread has bothered to explore. The number of couples who GET OUT OF using an RV before age catches up (75) is very likely tied to the ever-higher expense of enjoying what should be a pleasure. Travel farther. See more. Do it all for less. Bye-bye worries. ( What a concept! Economy!) Is there a high correlation between the DISH/Netflix subscribers and to threads like this? The whole low IQ thing? Because what you expend on dancing at the end of the advertising string could have gone elsewhere. Go to the back pages of this site. Or a diesel pickup forum. See yourself in the same threads on, “the new Porky Pig for 1998!!” Trash the TV. Once, and finally. (I’m damned if I know how we traveled the whole of the US, much of Canada and Mexico without TV as I was growing up. Doesn’t occur to me now it’s worth it either, as last I looked it’s even worse. Why was it the government was giving vouchers at the time of the analog to digital changeover? Get a clue. Please. Then — just maybe — you’ll see that those windowless walls aren’t bearable without your babysitter). 1,000-TQ. What a load of rubbish. If “performance” matters to you — you say — then you’d all know the top shops for antilock disc brake & independent suspension retrofit. You don’t, thus, your words to the contrary, it doesn’t. (Another part of performance is fuel burn. I explained at length a few years back — twice, I think, — how to modify fuel use the rest of the year TO PAY EVERY CENT OF 5,000-MILE VACATION FUEL. Know how many PMs I got inquiring farther? Ha!). If after this you think that I don’t like you or other RV’ers, that’s pitiful. I’ve had more than fifty years experience and used that time to think on it. Watch people come and go. And there’s no end of sadness in watching the thing fade away in them. It does. Wise up.
Slowmover 10/28/19 03:58am Tow Vehicles
RE: Upgraded my tow vehicle, do I still need a WDH?

You won’t live enough years to have towed the variety of trailers or with the variety of tow vehicles I’ve used. Privately, and commercially. What “Ford says” doesn’t mean much. Never did. Has zero legal or insurance consequences. You own and operate it, you’re the one responsible. By the way, once you set that WDH, what was the decrease in braking distance versus the solo (loaded) number?
Slowmover 10/28/19 03:41am Travel Trailers
RE: Upgraded my tow vehicle, do I still need a WDH?

The dealers love selling 75 pounds of iron for $600. WD hitches and their "Required" use developed back in the day when we towed with sedans and station wagons. A modern pickup is much more capable that grandpa's 1958 Buick. Old habits are hard to break though. Sometimes they are still required, often not. What does your truck manufacturer say on the subject? Having said that, if you think you need something, you need something. OP, it isn’t worth the waste of time refuting what you can easily prove to yourself. Ignorance and stupidity appear alike at first, luckily one of them has a cure.
Slowmover 10/27/19 11:22am Travel Trailers
RE: Upgraded my tow vehicle, do I still need a WDH?

To use WDH, follow the directions in the article at the CAN AM RV website titled, “How to Set Your Torsion Bars”. This is the rough-in. Use a carpenter level across the door threshold and keep the trailer leveling inside the bubble. At the Cat Scale, one pass with hitch tensioned as per above, then a second with tension fully slack (plus crossing third time solo). Get tire pressure nailed down at book value. Ready to test means an easy 1.5-hours to a pull-off with gentlest braking. Ck pressure. A rise of 5-7% above book value is fine. 9% or higher means add some. The other tests need doing. You may need more weight transferred, or less. It’s “right” when itvtracks on rails. Level trailer is required. Truck may squat (not a problem). . (An addition to this is headlight height. Go to auto lighting engineer Daniel Sterns website to learn how to correctly aim headlights. Once WD values are as you like them, you need to know how much to adjust lights for correct pattern). Unlike the others, never assume. TEST & VERIFY. An annual 3-pass scale verification is a minimum. There will be A RANGE of adjustments to record and keep handy with those scale tickets. Every rig has this range, and it differers slightly for each one. Take your time. Buy the tools and keep them dedicated to this use. Do the record keeping and testing. It’s only over a hump the first time. Good luck .
Slowmover 10/27/19 11:12am Travel Trailers
RE: Upgraded my tow vehicle, do I still need a WDH?

OP, set your phone with the CAT Scale app. To test, is the thing. For that a numerical baseline is needed. A WDH is only partly about being a hitch. It’s an aid to steering control. It also improves braking. 1). TARE Weight. Take a cold tire pressure reading first. Max the fuel once at the truckstop. With driver alone and nothing in the truck EXCEPT what remains there to the day you sell it, get a scale reading. (The paper copy is at the fuel desk inside). - The published shipping weight means little. The TARE weight is the lightest it will ever be. Take a pic of the door sticker showing axle/tire/wheel ratings. - With the tire Load & Pressure table (and inside truck limits) pressurize the tires to reflect the values acquired. 2). Another day, but again with a cold tire reading, trailer in tow, both vehicles loaded for camping (plus fully topped propane & fresh water) max the fuel tank and cross the scale. All passengers aboard. Again, acquire the ticket. 3). With no changes except to have dropped the trailer, cross the scale again. Everyone still aboard. Acquire ticket. 4). Adjust truck tires to book value. Trailer tires to sidewall max. Generally speaking, the benefits of a WDH start with a 350-lb TW (my Cummins diesel operator manual requires it at that point). Understand that pulling weight down the highway is nothing. The hitch rigging (as it were) IS A STEERING COMPONENT. Where the trailer in question is low to the ground and presents little surface area to crosswinds, it’s not the weight of a trailer that gets operators into trouble, it’s the wind load of a high-riding box. That typical box riding on leaf springs has little to no wheel travel, and the design TRAPS winds (versus a radiused Airstream) such that with slide outs (imbalance) and a very tall floor height, it’s the least stable vehicle on the road. Bad design & **** suspension make it terrible. To tow without WDH is done everyday. But, why? Braking distances are increased, not decreased, ride motions are exaggerated, and steering is wonky. The leading cause of loss-of-control accidents with towed RVs is adverse winds. Natural, or man-made. The rear of a box TT will come off the ground in a sway event (which is better pictured as oscillation where a widening cone starts at the hitch ball and extends back) and in only a moment, the TV rear tires lose contact. That’s the end. The operator tried to stay upright. Overcorrects. Wrecks. It wouldn’t occur to me to tow a billboard thru the wind without a WDH (integrated away control). As it stands, I can take my 63’ long, 17k combined rig and do maneuvers all day at 55-mph that following me would cause you to have that wreck before completing the first one. That my rig stops sooner Towing than the loaded truck does Solo, is enough. As a truck driver running in excess of 10,000 miles/month I see the rigs that struggle with crosswinds. Or, in coming up over a major river crossing with a wicked wind coming downstream. And we are WAAAY up in it above ground level. It’s a problem for me even with 46,000-lbs in the box. The original WDH is the Reese. Still the best of the type. But made obsolete by the design patented by Jim Hensley a quarter—century ago. No sway. Ever. Cheap at twice the price. So, the above work outlines the basics of static measurement. What happens on the road is dynamic. That trailer tongue effectively starts back between the tandem axles. A very long lever. Wrong conditions and it’s exerting several thousand pounds of force. Thousands, not a few hundred. All of it onto the hitch ball. A WDH spreads the force. Over three points, not one. Down on the hitch ball — OR UP —the force is mitigated so far as Steering feel is affected. My truck, solo, ready to hitch, is at a 50/50 weight balance. After tension applied, the Steer Axle is close to the solo value. The Drive Axle still outweighs it (important) by 10% or a little more. Weight has been shifted to the TT tires which increases their grip resisting side-sway, and improving braking. My TT TW does NOT exceed the receiver rating (been upgraded). So what? What matters is Steering, Handling, and Braking. That which improves those reduces risk of accident & injury. It makes my day at the wheel far easier. Uneventful. So, start as above with the scale tickets from two different days. Do it correctly. Don’t adjust truck tire pressure past Table values (as that reduces tire grip; it’s what the dummies do to try and modify handling), and take it out for a trip. WDH by itself gives a tiny bit of anti-sway. The hitches with integrated antisway exert about 150-lbs of resistance. A Hensley or Pro-Pride simply eliminates the problem altogether. A tow rig is composed of three EQUALLY WEIGHTED items: TV, TT and the hitch rigging. That last is as important as the other two. The new guys with twenty years haven’t towed with a well-designed rig and don’t know what’s possible. No reference. A new 1974 Holiday Rambler with lower clearance height than today’s pulled behind a Dodge Monaco was a tow rig better than what they’ve ever experienced. (Can’t get the WD adjusted properly either, so not much help despite good intentions ). Do your own investigation getting the correct numbers and doing the tests. 1). How fast can you do an emergency double lane -change? 35-mph? I can do them unceasingly at 55-mph. Start with starboard tires on Interstate shoulder and violently cut over to opposite outside edge of passing lane. And back. Throttle-on the whole way. 2). Whats the difference in braking distance from 60-mph in an emergency stop from the solo, loaded for camping condition, to that with the trailer also loaded? 3). What conditions experienced underway are those where you are forced to stop. Be specific. Know them ahead of time. Have alternates planned. I have towed my 35 TT in 45-mph crosswinds with higher gusts where the big trucks are all leaving the road. This is after the RVs disappeared. The point here is that my hitch rigging was as important as both the TV & TT. The limits have to be found, and known. (Once the big trucks left, so did I. But at an exit of my choosing). Here’s a further clue in advance: Ideally, the Drive Axle will weigh more than the Steer once hitched. Traction. Without WDH this means the solo TV will be light on the Drive. . . . what happens to Drive traction when the TT is pitching and the tongue is on the upward swing? .
Slowmover 10/27/19 10:37am Travel Trailers
RE: CB Radios??

No one pays attention to CB (FCC). Those guys regulate to keep profit in the hands of the few. The exception is some guy with a 100K watt TV transmitter re-purposed to ruin CB for hundreds of miles around. Etc. I figure we’ll use SSB with a hailing channel. 38-lsb , then off to somewhere else. Regional and local. There are a few million CBs operable, and 10’s of thousands with some extra juice to run them. The airwaves are full of noise not present in 1957, thus, a little power goes a long way. (Takes 600W to make the next step in performance from 100W). See eHam reviews on any gear. Setup, gear, tools and tests are all part of a VG system. I have a dedicated GP bag with those items. Radio-only. And a hamfest sounds great. Can I use your $$ card, mines empty from this hobby (ha!)
Slowmover 10/27/19 04:40am General RVing Issues
RE: CB Radios??

Uniden 980 AM/SSB on sale at Amazon at $99.00. MSRP is $179.00. This is today’s basic radio. Digital construction (don’t let anyone open the case), excellent receive. SSB means longer-range transmission in those settings. Don’t buy a radio without it. To turn it into a giant killer: 1). West Mountain Radio ClearSpeaker $200.00 - features what the $1,000+ HAM equipment has, and that’s DSP (digital signal processing). Bye-bye noise. The radio has better ears than you suspected, but now with the noise removed, you can hear what you couldn’t before. (Also equipped with headphone jack). I’ve had mine over five years and 400k miles including the first 100 through the oilfield. I regularly listen to transmissions other around me can’t hear. So much so that in distant rural areas I may have to back off the RF Gain as three conversations are all I can follow. 2). RM Italy KL-203 amp $75.00 eBay — a realistic 70W amp size of a cigarette pack that will run WITH the radio and speaker off of a 15A circuit. I’ve had one about three years. It’s cheap and dependable. Anything goes wrong, just buy another. Mines velcroed to the top of the radio. With these two you can hear, and get heard like never before. The high-zoot tweaked & peaked $600 10-meter export can’t match it in overall performance. And you’ve no need to let any backwoods tech touch your gear. As always, the antenna SYSTEM is the thing. The SIRIO 5000 series on a BREEDLOVE roof puck is your choice. (Your truck has dozens of holes already; do this part right). The quality of both is such that they’re both WELL known to the HAM world. Access to a pickup rooftop center can be thru an overhead interior light. Just snake higher quality coax down the passenger side. A system of this caliber will dumbfound those who think they know what CB is and isn’t. It’s also the best thing thing available should cell service fail. Most radio gear lasts in excess of ten years. Twenty, when taken care of. To that end, a Harbor Freight APACHE 3800 foam-lined transport case. $29 on sale. Compare to Pelican at over $100. (Radio gear gets damaged moved in and out of vehicle.) Set up home and travel trailer with same. This radio price a steal. I’ve decided this is the best back-up radio to fancier Yaesu and such where the hard work of an antenna system goes to naught if a problem occurs. Therefore, a minimum of three for my needs. It just sleeps in the transport case until I need it. Big truck, pickup, travel trailer. .
Slowmover 10/27/19 04:10am General RVing Issues
RE: Ford 6.7L 1050 ft lbs TQ at 1,600 rpm, 475 HP at 2,800 rpm

2004 Dodge 555TQ quarter-mile = 16.8 seconds 2019 Ram 1000TQ quarter-mile = 16.4 seconds. Is the Ford doing 12’s, or is the story the same?
Slowmover 10/27/19 03:45am Tow Vehicles
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
Prev


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.