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 > Your search for posts made by 'Smitty77' found 19 matches.

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RE: UpDate : Koni FSD Shocks

OP - Glad the FSD's helped your ride... For other's considering shocks. Another way to approach this is to use the FSD's not he Steers, and Koni Adjustable SP3 shocks on the rear. You feel more road transfer to the front seats from the Steer axle. And having five levels of dampening settings on the Drive (Tag too, if it's a tag coach.) will give you more flexibility on settings. And SP3's were a bit less expensive the last time I looked. If it is for a Diesel Pusher, instead of the Gold FSD's, look at the EVO '99's' - which are also FSD type design, buy much more 'stout/robust'. Best to all, travel safe, have fun, Smitty
Smitty77 03/10/20 10:55am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2006 country coach inspire 360

The Inspire were a fresher more modern interior design then the Allure on up models, when it first came out. It was built to be the entry level into the CC lineup. So some of the materials and components and build technique were not the same. The Inspire for that era, compared to other entry to mid level coaches of other coach builders - was a good value. I'd consider the entry level Inspire, to be closer to many manufactures of that times mid level models. The CAT C9 has good power for the weight of the coach. One other comment on the Inspire vs say the Allure/Intrigue/Magna/Affinity - is they were much simpler and less complex coaches. Some years they did not have the Hydro/AquaHot, and went with Propane Water Heaters, as one example. I know many CC owner's that own Inspires, and are very pleased and proud of their coaches... Agree with the comments about look for maintenance records, and condition of coach - but that is for any coach, not just CC Inspire's. If you are not comfortable doing your own inspection, hire and 'independent' inspector to review the coach. (Not a dealer trying to sell the same coach...) And if you have more finite questions, do check some of the CC Owner's Groups. IRV2, Facebook, etc. They will have members who can provide more finite info on Inspires. Good luck on your hunt, Smitty
Smitty77 03/10/20 10:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: SpaceX Starlink Update

And the more competition for ATT, Sprint, T-Mobile and Verizon for mobile Data Usage the better... I usually like to take a position of optimism as new technology is being rolled out (In this case more of a new approach of data feed - the actual new technology.). So I'll wait to see how things go, and cheer the effort on - and since we're spending some good money to get Data via both ATT & Verizon now - I'm hopeful this will be competitively priced to allow the canceling of some of our arsenal of accounts to have Data feed on the road... Then again, I admit I'm a fan of Musk. Sure, he can be a bit flamboyant at times. But instead of sitting on his arse with the money he made from PayPal - he's out doing things that many people, and large companies, said could not be done. Tesla? Sure, it was certainly a game changer for the Auto industry and Electric Cars in general. But what is being done with Space X, I feel, is very impressive. He puts his money and mind behind his talk - and get's things done... Many may feel differently:)! Best to all, Smitty
Smitty77 12/25/19 01:46pm Technology Corner
RE: Phone as Hot Spot

A friend of ours used a Motorola Razr for HotSpot for years. After his firs Razr's battery swelled, he started to run you a electric outlet timer that he plugged the wall wart into. It was a simple mechanical time, which he set to shut off multiple times during the day, and then back on. (Don't recall what his pattern of time off/on were.) And he never had a problem with batteries again. Might be worth a shot to see if that works for you. Best of luck, Smitty
Smitty77 12/25/19 01:37pm Technology Corner
RE: Very good video on Buddy Heaters

We have both the little and big Mr Heaters. Depending upon travel mode, we carry the small one with us most of he time. If going somewhere where we expect extreme colds, we'll swap out the little one for the big unit. We do not use it for 7/24 heating. We use it for getting the coach up to temperature fast in the AM. I'll usually get up about an our ahead of the DW, and run the unit (And I do run it on our kitchen table:)!). On the big unit, I'll put on high, and turn on the auxiliary fan, until the temps inside reach mid 60's. Then step it back to low, which is he same BTU as the little unit on low too. It's on maybe an 1 1/2 - 2 hours total. When we swapped out our real danger, the Norcold 1200, I had the Propane Line stubbed out into the toe board below the Samsung RF18, with a quick disconnect and 1/4 on/off valve. So I can use a hose to the Mr Heater, with the appropriate filter inline. All of this is while boon docking camping. I'm anal about our safety in the coach, and have three different CO detectors. I have two windows opened the appropriate amount, and also the kitchen roof, closely above the table with the Mr Heater on it, is open 3-4" too. We do have multiple static dehumidifiers. THE UNIT IS NEVER LEFT UN-ATTENDED. I feel it's just another part of our RV'ing arsenal, and like an device - if not maintained properly, and used properly - can be dangerous. But I feel ours is safe to use, obviously. When not boon docking. We use Electric Floor Tile Heat and HydroHot on Electric element only, as well as a portable 1500W electric heater, for most of our coach heating. (In our rig, I need the HydroHot on aways, on real cold temps, to keep the water bay heated.) I do feel this is one of those situations where all of us much make our own decisions. Travel safe, have fun, Smitty
Smitty77 12/25/19 12:46pm Tech Issues
RE: New coffee maker

We've been very please with the effective and KISS design of this electric unit. I do recommend PSW inverter, if not on Shore Power. Great coffee, of course with fresh ground coffee:)! We also have a stainless steel copper clad bottom Revele(SP?), it came from a set given to my parents on their wedding day back in the early 40's. We use it out around the campfire, while waiting to watch sunrises. And, it doubles as a last ditch emergency source of good coffee, in case of major coach problems:)! May the perk be with you, Smitty
Smitty77 12/25/19 12:16pm General RVing Issues
RE: Deleted

And a fine 2020 ahead for all... Smitty
Smitty77 12/25/19 12:07pm Class A Motorhomes
A flash back today - to former member Sully!

We're relaxing in the warm high 63 temps of the Oregon Coast today after several days of rain... Decided it would be a good day to go to lunch, convinced the wife (Did not complete the sentence, before she said Yes!), and off we went. A local Mexican restaurant on Hwy 101 in Newport, OR. So as we're making sure the salsa and hot sauce were good, 'chipping' as we wait for our lunches... I look out the window at stop light. And a vintage Country Coach, pre paint cream color unit with gel coat, was at the light. (In great shape I might add!). And then a gent walks into the eating room wearing a Sombrero... Sully!!! It made me think of former Forum member Sully!!! His picture with the Sombrero perched on his head... And of course, he was one of those 'fanatical' Country Coach Owner's!!! (As I have become myself... And I know that the messages back and forth with Sully, helped make my decision to buy a Country Coach... It's funny how we can make relationships, and in many cases never meeting in person - via these forums... Point of my message? Well a 'Salute to Sully!!!'... Sure, he could cranky at times. But his wit, and his willing to share his opinion and knowledge - is what RV'ing and Forum Member's holing each other - was all about... A smile to you Sully. (And Sir, I left a tab open for you, stop in fro a Pacifico on me!!!). Ok, back to RV stuff. But please all, remember those who take the time to help us when we need it... Sully, was such a member... Best to all, Smitty
Smitty77 10/23/19 11:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher

Slight correction-- Alpine brakes are all wheel HYDRAULIC over hydraulic disk brakes. Beginning in the 2001 model year 4 piston, fixed caliper disk brakes. Agree- very good handling chassis. Their ISL's were equipped with engine compression brakes. Many coaches with ISL's had exhaust brakes. The engine compression brake was an up-charge option. Bret - Thanks for the correction on the Brakes... (I should stop trying to do two things at the same time - have trouble doing one correctly now a days:)! And also confirming the Jake in the Alpine... Was pretty sure it did (And when I went back to close of the link, I took the time to go read the add vs just looking at the pictures... Yep, Jake it said:)!). Any opinion on my opinion that Disk Brakes should yield shorter stopping distances, all things being equal except Disk vs Drums? Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 10/09/19 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher

Alpines have I believe 36-40' Mid Entry Door coaches. I prefer Tag's for 40', but the Peak Chassis is known as one of the better handling Chassis on the market - so if not pulling a heavy trailer and or lots of CCC needed, would be trade off a bit less tight cornering maneuverability for better handling. Especially if looking for Mid Entry Doors. One other uniqueness to the Alpine Peak Chassis, is Hydraulic Over Air Brakes. And this ISL should be a Jake Compression. And Apline's usually have all axle Disc Brakes... (On Disc brakes. IMO, identical coaches with identical weights and going identical speeds - a Disc Brake (At least on the Steers.) will stop shorter in an emergency stop, then all axle Drums. At highway speeds, and based upon many variables, 10-20' shorter stopping would not surprise me.). Here is one example of a 40' (Actually looks like well cared for (As much as pictures can tell...), and lots of storage, well appointed. : On Air vs Jack Leveling. Pro's and Con's (As with all things in RV's:)!) Just a few comments, and for sure not a complete comparison: No need to put out pads or blocks with Air Leveling; No stuck in the mud Jack Feet with Air Leveling; Air Leveling can have less range, in difficult leveling contains (But, you can put blocks under tires.); Air Leveling can give you some rocking when walking and or in strong winds; And a final comment on this brief info - Some coaches had both Air Leveling and Jacks available... So more weight, but also more options... Happy hunting, Smitty
Smitty77 10/09/19 03:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher

Some food for thought. 1) The ISL, or CAT C9, will many times get you 2 Stage Jake Compression. vs Exhaust; 2) The ISL vs ISC gets you the mentioned 1200 LBS Torque, and depending upon specific coach and year, should be between 400-450HP; 3) Tag vs Non Tag searches are worth reading. Yes, they do add weight to the coach (Which should also get you the ISL or C9.). The key thing Tag's do for a 40' DP is more CCC, higher stability while driving, especially in windy conditions, and the Drive Axle is closer to the Steers - so much more maneuverable when moving around and into a space in say a campground. (Our 40' Tag, turns tighter then our 28' Bounder without IFS. Sure, you have to be aware of tail swing... But much easier to maneuver and park in tight areas.). Another benefit of going to a Tag, is usually (NO, not ALWAYS) it gets you higher up in the food chain of a manufacturers coaches. This usually yields better chassis, and better built houses. Last comment is on the years you're considering, 2008-2012, understand the shifts in smog levels on the engines. An earlier smog level engine, sometimes is an easier engine to maintain thru the years. My general advice to someone starting the journey for a DP, is to: Determine a budget range, set aside $10-15K for Post Purchase expenses. (Catch-up on any deferred maintenance items, to establish a solid baseline for you to maintain from that point forward. As well as minor interior mod's to make it 'your coach'.) Go out and kick many tires, sit in many coaches (Slides out and in) and visualize livability. Narrow down to a list of Manufactures and Models and years that you like, then start the search. In general, I always recommend dropping years to remain within budget, and buy the highest quality model coach that meets your needs and that you like. Quality lasts. And the higher quality models, usually had superior chassis and engine/trans combinations - and these make a good foundation to carry the house forward over the years. Last list of suggestions, is continue to research some of these features, to determine which are, or are not, important to you: -Side vs Rear Radiator -Tag vs Non Tag -Drums all around vs at least Disc on Steers -CCC -Aqua/Hydro/Oasis heating vs Propane Water and Furnace heating -Heated tile floors vs none -Raised Rail chassis construction -Slide out generator vs non slide out -Xs 2 AC vs X's 3 AC -Jake vs Exhaust -3 Way Fridge vs Residential Fridge -Tank capacity (Grey/Black tanks sizes - can often dictate how long you can boon dock - if important to you.) -Slides qty. (Each slide adds additional weight, and weakens the house structure. Each slide can take about 6" on each of the slide (1') of wall cabinet space. Each slide can also lower upper cabinet space by 6-8". Each slide adds complexity.) -Leveling Air vs Jacks vs Both -Front Entry door vs Mid Entry Door (Majority of DP's are Front, but some Mid exist.) Only you two can decide what is, or is not, important to the two of you... But I'll share that I'd rather have an older higher quality DP with larger block engine (C12, C13, DD Series 60, ISM), Tag, Rear Radiator coach - then a newer entry to mid level/tier quality coach. Opinions vary and the most important thing is for the two of you to do what you feel is right for you... Happy hunting, and best to you and all, Smitty
Smitty77 10/09/19 10:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ambient air sensor 2002 Monaco I S C engine

Perhaps this thread might help with some hints:)! Good luck, Smitty
Smitty77 07/19/19 10:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Smitty, did you mean "amps" when you posted "AH" in your question? Perhaps you could edit that if so, to make the question more understandable. Thanks. Corrected, and thanks. And sorry my rambling was not clear - coffee delivery problems today:)! Basically wanted to confirm that higher charging rate levels for Lifeline's, is preferable to lower charging rate levels. To avoid sulfation. And that I had interpreted MW's comment about larger battery banks, and living on the upper range of SOC, can pay dividends too... Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 04:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

MW & BFL13 - You two have probably learned, forgotten, learned again and forgot that you had once forgotten - more then I've been able to absorb over the last 15 years or so on batteries and charging in general. (Intended as a complement!). Rolls, Trojan - have both been mentioned by you in the last few threads. The OP has Lifeline's (And as you both may recall as you both helped me with my bank - I have Lifeline X's 4 L16's too. Lifeline seem to provide different guidance on a bank of their batteries can handle as far as higher Amps (Thanks BFL13!), then other AGM's. (I don't know the specific's on the differences between say what Rolls, Trojan, Crown, Etc. state for their AGM's, in comparison to Lifeline's.) MW - You mentioned adding more battery AH capability, to live off of a higher SOC depletion point overnight. I basically did this, as we usually at about 75% SOC + or - 3 to 5% depending upon overnight heating and or running of fans for cooling. I did this, to try and reduce the volume of DOD Cycles usage. After I walked my previous bank of the same batteries down. I did mention that a Lifeline Tech did spend a good deal of time trying to help me recover my existing bank. And one of the key things I took away from my conversations with him, and from the input provided to me by you two and others and other forums - was that adding higher AH's during Bulk/Absorb cycles help avoid sulfation build up on the mats. So with Lifeline having a higher recommended AH's of goosing during those phases then other AGM manufactures - and I'm now doing that with my new bank, is not the higher 'juice' a better way of avoiding sulfate build up. (And as mentioned, I also do periodic Conditioning now too, also at the recommendation of the Tech. Under different time cycles based upon battery usage over the weeks prior. As I read the info in the last few posts in this thread, I've inferred (Maybe incorrectly?) - that higher 'juice' levels are detrimental to AGM's? (Sure, they have a 'fixed' amount of material on the mats, but I'm not drying these out by ever getting near 'venting' escape levels...). And OP. Not trying to hijack this thread. You have Lifeline's, smaller size bank and you do seem to push them to the 50% SOC level vs my 75% SOC levels - but specifically for Lifeline's, is why I'm asking the question to these gents to clarify if I've miss understood them:)! Best to you all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 10:50am Tech Issues
RE: Problem with Extended Warranty

OP - I wish you luck, and hope your policy is as mentioned, where it specifically spells out what is 'not included', and thus all other items should be covered. Agree that WW will be your friend in determining if it's an appropriate item the Insurance/Warranty company should be covering. I'd suggest out of fairness to WW, that you send a request to a Moderator to change the title to state Problem With Extended Warranty - not WW:)! And not to add to your pain, but maximize the labor costs involved in the removal, and have other items tested on your dime, replace and or refurbish as needed.... Best, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 10:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Always enjoy reading posts here, a fine cast of 'character's' for sure:)! (That, was intended as a complement!). I won't repeat the full story of my opportunity to learn (Burn as you learn! (Or in my case: Burned as I learned!), with my bank of X's 4 L16's Lifeline. Many of the posters in this thread, and a few members of IRV2 too, helped me thru the phases of: -What the heck happened? -No, this can't be true? -What do you mean Smart Chargers, are not all that smart! -Realization that I was lucky to only have two feet, or more would had been blown off by 'operator error'. -Ouch, this is going to be expensive!!! The short of it, is I walked my bank of L16's down by constantly undercharging. My bank was oversized enough for day to day needs, that it was not until they'd walked down quite aways - that I started to see 'Something ain't right!'. (Combo of doing what I thought was the right thing, based upon the info I had at that time. And a willingness to trust the logic programmed in by the engineers on my specific Smart Charger...). End result, with good tech support from Magnum and Lifeline (And sanity checks and pearls of wisdom from here and IRV2.) - it was determined the bank were shot at about 5 1/2 years. Lifeline made me an offer I could not refuse, and showed the character of the company in doing so, and I replaced the bank with exact duplicate!! OP - You have what you have. And it does sound like you have not damaged them beyond reasonable recovery. Lifeline calls equalizing - conditioning. So I'd agree with earlier input to get your battery bank back up to where it is truly fully charged. Take out and take home and use a stand alone old fashion charger if needed. Get them to fully charged, then run a full Conditioning run on them, to shake off any sulfation build up. You already have your solar panels. Sure you might be able to add more. But I also agree with the input here, to not give up on the bank of batteries you have, and or your desire to go use your rig. Do watch Craigslist for a good buy on a smaller generator. Honda, Yamaha - whatever. Do get yourself one more good quality purchase of a stand alone charger, the one MW recommends is fine. And yep, do run it. If maybe not a night, and you have some good sunshine, perhaps get a good bulk/absorb charge into the battery in the AM - and see if the solar can top things off. If not, then hit the bank again in the evening. (Many people seem to due so when running AC to cool things off in hotter climates, or to say cook and use a microwave.). Do make it habit of investing the costs of fuel, to run that generator enough to get back to fully charged on a periodic basis. The 3 days to as high as you can get it, and then the 4th day to fully charged - would be for sure better then what you have been doing:)! ------ Going back to me, and what I've done differently. I've reset the Magnum MS2812 parameters to the best options I can, based upon software limitations. (Both for usage while out and about in the RV, and also for while in storage and 'maintaining' mode.). I've also tuned my MidNite Classic 150 Controller, and have enabled the WhzBngJr module's capability to end charge based upon Finishing Amps. The changes to the MS2812 and Classic 150 have been working well so far. But the final change I made to my maintenance of the new bank, is to 'goose' the bank every 4-6 weeks (Depending upon usage. If going park to park and not really drawing down on the house bank. I do this every 4 weeks. If boon docking and 'cycling' the battery bank, I move it out to 6 weeks.) I run a conditioning cycle. MW mentioned the 90% of premature failure of AGM's, is due to consistent undercharged conditions. This a common theme of my research from 'How the heck did I ruing my bank!'. On a combo of RV/Boating/Offgrid homes/cabins forums. I've also read many threads about a certain poster here, who has kept his Northstar AGM (Thin plates, as I recall:)!) healthy and supportive of his usage - much longer then is the norm of most of mere mortals.... Lithiums? Sure, in the future (As much for reduction of weight, as in the ability to not fully charge.). Probably Drop In's, but who knows, may go with a custom cell by cell built bank that fits the eventual space I determine will be utilized. (If Drop In's. Will go in the existing basement, which will be well insulated and protected from cold, and have already determined how I can install a few pancake fans to push/pull Air Conditioned air from inside of the coaches rear bedroom. If not drop in's, will face the wrath of the DW, and place them under out bed, and out of the way of the rear slide out mechanism. But, this is directly over the engine, and heat gain is a reality - that mid size block of diesel engine, heat mass does take along time to cool down. So, not sure yet where or what I'll install.) But I'm hoping this is another 5-7 years away. Things are consistently evolving on the Lithium world, some price drops too - so we'll see what is going on when the time comes! I wish you good luck on your bank, and have some fun too! Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/13/19 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Michelin tires

OP - Sorry your tires were cracking at that age - no doubt about it, the wallet gets dipped into when this happens:)! Can you share whether or not you exercise your coach, and tires, on a semi regular 4-6 week interval? Or, does your coach sometimes sit for longer periods between trips. Or are you a full timer and put many miles on per month? I'm asking, because how the tire is maintained/exercised, could have a baring on how long it will last. And just a general comment. Naming a brand of tire, like Michelin, and saying anything about it - is relatively meaningless without knowing the specific model. (Sort of like some driving a Ford Pinto, saying that 'Ford's are slow!' - Well a GT40 owner might have a differing perspective on 'Ford's'...) Specific's matter, and can help others as they research. (Just my opinion:)!). And tires are very much like Dino vs Syn, or Chevy vs Ford, or (Whatever vs Whatever) - people have different experiences with a 'Brand' - and anyone who does not see the wisdom in using 'that brand' - well, they might as well just move on down the road... And larger manufactures of any product, have many variants and models - sometimes one will suck. But to say all of the products from that manufactures 'suck' is not always true and or fair. Ford for example, had the Pinto Fuel Tank issue. Chevy had the Nadar(SP?) Corvair issue. Audi had the false Sudden Acceleration of I believe the early 5000 issue. Michelin certainly had problem with their 'Passenger like XRV tires for RV's, believe this was the famous Zipper Tire. Heck, Ford Explorer's had the evil Firestone tires... To say everything is bad from a manufacturer from a problem with one product, well... Many good tires available. Many times at different price points. And lower cost, does not always mean lower quality. And higher cost, does not always mean high quality. I do have mostly Micelin's (And practicing what I preached above, first set I put on were XZE*'s. Due to a deep sharp edged pot hole I had to replace two tires during a Michelin tire shortage period. Ended up with 2 BF Goodrich ST230, which also seemed to be a solid, good bang for the buck tire. The current set of tires, are Michelin XZA2's.) My next set? Well, it's out about 5-6 years - and who knows what I'll go with. No problem with Hankook's, Cooper, Toyo's, Bridgestone, Continetal, Yokohama to name a few. I don't shop by price alone, I research and shop based upon several criteria, of which price is towards the bottom of the decision process. I suspect that if I'd bought a set of any tires, and felt I had maintained and exercised them well, and they started to crack earlier then I felt they should of - yep, I'd be not too anxious to try another of the same 'model' of tire. But I would not eliminate the manufacturer based upon one set of of one model that had a problem... OK, done rambling. And now excuse me, I must get over to my HiFi forums. Some members are insisting that Digital can sound as good as Analog - well, what are they thinking???!!! (LP's a spinning, tubes a glowing - oh yeah HiFi:)!)... Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty
Smitty77 04/25/19 10:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Salute to Sully (Sully2) - miss his posts...

So glad his forum imprint is still remembered.... As a rookie on forums, and RV'ing - I was at times just a tad intimidated by some of the forum veterans (Sully:)!). But the moment his picture started to include a Sombrero - and I learned he was a mere Aerospace Engineer - I understood that a mortal was behind the keypad. I never had the pleasure to meet him in person, but we did have a few private emails and phone calls. He helped me quite a bit, on moving from our Bounder to our Country Coach:)! And Ivylog - While I'll not forget Jonny T., I admit that the odds are, I'll forget where I put my keys before the weekend is over:)! (Always appreciate, your posts.) Best to you all, Smitty
Smitty77 04/12/19 10:26pm Class A Motorhomes
Salute to Sully (Sully2) - miss his posts...

I was doing some research today to help someone comparing older Country Coaches to Newmar's of the same era. As I did so, on many forum searches, and Google too... I found multiple times that that Sully (Sully2) came up in responses... What a character! Sure, he could get grumpy from time to time... But dang it, great wit, solid knowledge, and for a semi reformed Engineer (We both came from Aerospace backgrounds:)!), at times he acted almost as a mere mortal... tolerating us that were 'non engineer's:)!'. (Last comment, was written and intended in the utmost respect!!). Sure, many years his picture included a Mexcan Sombrero - possibly taken at a non 'Engineer's', post beverage consumption moment:)! But dang it, you always KNEW what Sully felt about any give subject... Sure hope the current owner's of his Country Coach (Or, if still with the family!) - are having a blast with it... Sully would for sure approve (And be the first to send a lightening bolt, if not approving...). SALUTE TO SULLY (Sully2)... RIP:)! And thanks for your sharing of yourself on RV.NET... Best all, Smitty (98 Bounder. Now, 04 CC Allure!)
Smitty77 04/10/19 10:39pm Class A Motorhomes
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