Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Smitty77' found 21 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Ambient air sensor 2002 Monaco I S C engine

Perhaps this thread might help with some hints:)! Good luck, Smitty
Smitty77 07/19/19 10:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Smitty, did you mean "amps" when you posted "AH" in your question? Perhaps you could edit that if so, to make the question more understandable. Thanks. Corrected, and thanks. And sorry my rambling was not clear - coffee delivery problems today:)! Basically wanted to confirm that higher charging rate levels for Lifeline's, is preferable to lower charging rate levels. To avoid sulfation. And that I had interpreted MW's comment about larger battery banks, and living on the upper range of SOC, can pay dividends too... Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 04:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

MW & BFL13 - You two have probably learned, forgotten, learned again and forgot that you had once forgotten - more then I've been able to absorb over the last 15 years or so on batteries and charging in general. (Intended as a complement!). Rolls, Trojan - have both been mentioned by you in the last few threads. The OP has Lifeline's (And as you both may recall as you both helped me with my bank - I have Lifeline X's 4 L16's too. Lifeline seem to provide different guidance on a bank of their batteries can handle as far as higher Amps (Thanks BFL13!), then other AGM's. (I don't know the specific's on the differences between say what Rolls, Trojan, Crown, Etc. state for their AGM's, in comparison to Lifeline's.) MW - You mentioned adding more battery AH capability, to live off of a higher SOC depletion point overnight. I basically did this, as we usually at about 75% SOC + or - 3 to 5% depending upon overnight heating and or running of fans for cooling. I did this, to try and reduce the volume of DOD Cycles usage. After I walked my previous bank of the same batteries down. I did mention that a Lifeline Tech did spend a good deal of time trying to help me recover my existing bank. And one of the key things I took away from my conversations with him, and from the input provided to me by you two and others and other forums - was that adding higher AH's during Bulk/Absorb cycles help avoid sulfation build up on the mats. So with Lifeline having a higher recommended AH's of goosing during those phases then other AGM manufactures - and I'm now doing that with my new bank, is not the higher 'juice' a better way of avoiding sulfate build up. (And as mentioned, I also do periodic Conditioning now too, also at the recommendation of the Tech. Under different time cycles based upon battery usage over the weeks prior. As I read the info in the last few posts in this thread, I've inferred (Maybe incorrectly?) - that higher 'juice' levels are detrimental to AGM's? (Sure, they have a 'fixed' amount of material on the mats, but I'm not drying these out by ever getting near 'venting' escape levels...). And OP. Not trying to hijack this thread. You have Lifeline's, smaller size bank and you do seem to push them to the 50% SOC level vs my 75% SOC levels - but specifically for Lifeline's, is why I'm asking the question to these gents to clarify if I've miss understood them:)! Best to you all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 10:50am Tech Issues
RE: Problem with Extended Warranty

OP - I wish you luck, and hope your policy is as mentioned, where it specifically spells out what is 'not included', and thus all other items should be covered. Agree that WW will be your friend in determining if it's an appropriate item the Insurance/Warranty company should be covering. I'd suggest out of fairness to WW, that you send a request to a Moderator to change the title to state Problem With Extended Warranty - not WW:)! And not to add to your pain, but maximize the labor costs involved in the removal, and have other items tested on your dime, replace and or refurbish as needed.... Best, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 10:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Always enjoy reading posts here, a fine cast of 'character's' for sure:)! (That, was intended as a complement!). I won't repeat the full story of my opportunity to learn (Burn as you learn! (Or in my case: Burned as I learned!), with my bank of X's 4 L16's Lifeline. Many of the posters in this thread, and a few members of IRV2 too, helped me thru the phases of: -What the heck happened? -No, this can't be true? -What do you mean Smart Chargers, are not all that smart! -Realization that I was lucky to only have two feet, or more would had been blown off by 'operator error'. -Ouch, this is going to be expensive!!! The short of it, is I walked my bank of L16's down by constantly undercharging. My bank was oversized enough for day to day needs, that it was not until they'd walked down quite aways - that I started to see 'Something ain't right!'. (Combo of doing what I thought was the right thing, based upon the info I had at that time. And a willingness to trust the logic programmed in by the engineers on my specific Smart Charger...). End result, with good tech support from Magnum and Lifeline (And sanity checks and pearls of wisdom from here and IRV2.) - it was determined the bank were shot at about 5 1/2 years. Lifeline made me an offer I could not refuse, and showed the character of the company in doing so, and I replaced the bank with exact duplicate!! OP - You have what you have. And it does sound like you have not damaged them beyond reasonable recovery. Lifeline calls equalizing - conditioning. So I'd agree with earlier input to get your battery bank back up to where it is truly fully charged. Take out and take home and use a stand alone old fashion charger if needed. Get them to fully charged, then run a full Conditioning run on them, to shake off any sulfation build up. You already have your solar panels. Sure you might be able to add more. But I also agree with the input here, to not give up on the bank of batteries you have, and or your desire to go use your rig. Do watch Craigslist for a good buy on a smaller generator. Honda, Yamaha - whatever. Do get yourself one more good quality purchase of a stand alone charger, the one MW recommends is fine. And yep, do run it. If maybe not a night, and you have some good sunshine, perhaps get a good bulk/absorb charge into the battery in the AM - and see if the solar can top things off. If not, then hit the bank again in the evening. (Many people seem to due so when running AC to cool things off in hotter climates, or to say cook and use a microwave.). Do make it habit of investing the costs of fuel, to run that generator enough to get back to fully charged on a periodic basis. The 3 days to as high as you can get it, and then the 4th day to fully charged - would be for sure better then what you have been doing:)! ------ Going back to me, and what I've done differently. I've reset the Magnum MS2812 parameters to the best options I can, based upon software limitations. (Both for usage while out and about in the RV, and also for while in storage and 'maintaining' mode.). I've also tuned my MidNite Classic 150 Controller, and have enabled the WhzBngJr module's capability to end charge based upon Finishing Amps. The changes to the MS2812 and Classic 150 have been working well so far. But the final change I made to my maintenance of the new bank, is to 'goose' the bank every 4-6 weeks (Depending upon usage. If going park to park and not really drawing down on the house bank. I do this every 4 weeks. If boon docking and 'cycling' the battery bank, I move it out to 6 weeks.) I run a conditioning cycle. MW mentioned the 90% of premature failure of AGM's, is due to consistent undercharged conditions. This a common theme of my research from 'How the heck did I ruing my bank!'. On a combo of RV/Boating/Offgrid homes/cabins forums. I've also read many threads about a certain poster here, who has kept his Northstar AGM (Thin plates, as I recall:)!) healthy and supportive of his usage - much longer then is the norm of most of mere mortals.... Lithiums? Sure, in the future (As much for reduction of weight, as in the ability to not fully charge.). Probably Drop In's, but who knows, may go with a custom cell by cell built bank that fits the eventual space I determine will be utilized. (If Drop In's. Will go in the existing basement, which will be well insulated and protected from cold, and have already determined how I can install a few pancake fans to push/pull Air Conditioned air from inside of the coaches rear bedroom. If not drop in's, will face the wrath of the DW, and place them under out bed, and out of the way of the rear slide out mechanism. But, this is directly over the engine, and heat gain is a reality - that mid size block of diesel engine, heat mass does take along time to cool down. So, not sure yet where or what I'll install.) But I'm hoping this is another 5-7 years away. Things are consistently evolving on the Lithium world, some price drops too - so we'll see what is going on when the time comes! I wish you good luck on your bank, and have some fun too! Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/13/19 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Michelin tires

OP - Sorry your tires were cracking at that age - no doubt about it, the wallet gets dipped into when this happens:)! Can you share whether or not you exercise your coach, and tires, on a semi regular 4-6 week interval? Or, does your coach sometimes sit for longer periods between trips. Or are you a full timer and put many miles on per month? I'm asking, because how the tire is maintained/exercised, could have a baring on how long it will last. And just a general comment. Naming a brand of tire, like Michelin, and saying anything about it - is relatively meaningless without knowing the specific model. (Sort of like some driving a Ford Pinto, saying that 'Ford's are slow!' - Well a GT40 owner might have a differing perspective on 'Ford's'...) Specific's matter, and can help others as they research. (Just my opinion:)!). And tires are very much like Dino vs Syn, or Chevy vs Ford, or (Whatever vs Whatever) - people have different experiences with a 'Brand' - and anyone who does not see the wisdom in using 'that brand' - well, they might as well just move on down the road... And larger manufactures of any product, have many variants and models - sometimes one will suck. But to say all of the products from that manufactures 'suck' is not always true and or fair. Ford for example, had the Pinto Fuel Tank issue. Chevy had the Nadar(SP?) Corvair issue. Audi had the false Sudden Acceleration of I believe the early 5000 issue. Michelin certainly had problem with their 'Passenger like XRV tires for RV's, believe this was the famous Zipper Tire. Heck, Ford Explorer's had the evil Firestone tires... To say everything is bad from a manufacturer from a problem with one product, well... Many good tires available. Many times at different price points. And lower cost, does not always mean lower quality. And higher cost, does not always mean high quality. I do have mostly Micelin's (And practicing what I preached above, first set I put on were XZE*'s. Due to a deep sharp edged pot hole I had to replace two tires during a Michelin tire shortage period. Ended up with 2 BF Goodrich ST230, which also seemed to be a solid, good bang for the buck tire. The current set of tires, are Michelin XZA2's.) My next set? Well, it's out about 5-6 years - and who knows what I'll go with. No problem with Hankook's, Cooper, Toyo's, Bridgestone, Continetal, Yokohama to name a few. I don't shop by price alone, I research and shop based upon several criteria, of which price is towards the bottom of the decision process. I suspect that if I'd bought a set of any tires, and felt I had maintained and exercised them well, and they started to crack earlier then I felt they should of - yep, I'd be not too anxious to try another of the same 'model' of tire. But I would not eliminate the manufacturer based upon one set of of one model that had a problem... OK, done rambling. And now excuse me, I must get over to my HiFi forums. Some members are insisting that Digital can sound as good as Analog - well, what are they thinking???!!! (LP's a spinning, tubes a glowing - oh yeah HiFi:)!)... Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty
Smitty77 04/25/19 10:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Salute to Sully (Sully2) - miss his posts...

So glad his forum imprint is still remembered.... As a rookie on forums, and RV'ing - I was at times just a tad intimidated by some of the forum veterans (Sully:)!). But the moment his picture started to include a Sombrero - and I learned he was a mere Aerospace Engineer - I understood that a mortal was behind the keypad. I never had the pleasure to meet him in person, but we did have a few private emails and phone calls. He helped me quite a bit, on moving from our Bounder to our Country Coach:)! And Ivylog - While I'll not forget Jonny T., I admit that the odds are, I'll forget where I put my keys before the weekend is over:)! (Always appreciate, your posts.) Best to you all, Smitty
Smitty77 04/12/19 10:26pm Class A Motorhomes
Salute to Sully (Sully2) - miss his posts...

I was doing some research today to help someone comparing older Country Coaches to Newmar's of the same era. As I did so, on many forum searches, and Google too... I found multiple times that that Sully (Sully2) came up in responses... What a character! Sure, he could get grumpy from time to time... But dang it, great wit, solid knowledge, and for a semi reformed Engineer (We both came from Aerospace backgrounds:)!), at times he acted almost as a mere mortal... tolerating us that were 'non engineer's:)!'. (Last comment, was written and intended in the utmost respect!!). Sure, many years his picture included a Mexcan Sombrero - possibly taken at a non 'Engineer's', post beverage consumption moment:)! But dang it, you always KNEW what Sully felt about any give subject... Sure hope the current owner's of his Country Coach (Or, if still with the family!) - are having a blast with it... Sully would for sure approve (And be the first to send a lightening bolt, if not approving...). SALUTE TO SULLY (Sully2)... RIP:)! And thanks for your sharing of yourself on RV.NET... Best all, Smitty (98 Bounder. Now, 04 CC Allure!)
Smitty77 04/10/19 10:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Wind Handling

As covered by others already, many variables in coaches and wind related handling. For some coaches, aftermarket component additions can be of great help. But some coaches, usually the entry level of a manufacturer, have way too much 'tail hang'. Shorter chassis, but still longer coaches, are not a good formula in the wind. While add on components will help this some, these coaches will never be as good of handling in the wind, as those with better Wheel Base to Coach Length proportions. And yep, many call it snake oil, but I've personally seen the improvements in especially shifting wind conditions, of using Air Tabs. I did do many of the handling components add on's and shocks to our 99 F53 18K Chassis (T-28 Bounder, so did not have much of a tail hang, compared to many I've seen on the road:)!). If you find that the wind does disturb you while driving, and decide to improve suspension and handling, consider Air Tabs in that mix too. Not expensive, and even after all of the other mod's I made - they really helped too. Cumulative in my specifics. And no matter what I had done to the Bounder, no comprising to a DP with Tag:)! Best of luck to you, Smitty
Smitty77 04/03/19 10:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motor homes over the years

Doug - Would value your confirmation on the added problems of RV ownerships due to the rapid number of smog related regulations rolled out? From about say 2005 and on smog regulations, and thus the need of the engine manufactures to design and certify (Many times on very short cycles.) new equipment to meet the new regulations.) (And note: This is not intended as a anti smog post, it's about the frequency of the changes and how they were rolled out...). Many systems and components in RV's, but I've watched forums traffic in the engine related areas problems grow due to the teething pains of new smog levels equipments maturing cycle. TIA for your perception, Smitty
Smitty77 04/03/19 10:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Michelin 22.5 tires

Compare the weight of the XZE to other tires in the same size, they weight more. This is because they have sidewalls designed to handle the abuse of delivery and bus drivers, kissing the curb and other items over their usage life cycle. We had the XZE* in 12R size for our first set of tires on our 40' DP. We lost the outside dual, and the tag on the passenger side due to impact on a fresh/deep/sharp edge pot hole (Would have probably sunk dow to the axle, but I think a VW was at the bottom of the whole!) on Hwy 99 North of Bakersfield. (Raining, in the right lane, and being passed by a convoy of trucks in the left lane, vehicles parked on the shoulder of the road. I saw what I thought was a pot hole, was able to slow down a bit, but took my foot off of the brake once I got the front end around the hole. Not able to do so on the rears:)!) It was a hard enough impact that I drove to the next safe place to pull off, about two miles up, and went out to inspect. I saw a bulge in the outside Dual, but did not see another, I'll say ripple, in the tag until the next day at the RV Park. Broken cord in one, and a slipped cord in the other. The TCI that I stopped at to have it looked over, dismounted both tires for inspection. First the Tire Tech, and about 5 minutes later when the Manager came to take a look stated basically the same thing. I was lucky the impact to the dual did not cause a blowout. It was the Manager said that it was because the XZE had the stronger sidewalls. (Unfortunately, they did not have the tires I needed in stock, and I elected to have them put back on and I kept my speed to 50-55, until I could get to a shop that had two replacements that were young enough to get. Put those on the steers, and moved the old steers to the damaged positions. I like the XZE. That being said, the current set is the XZA2 in 295/80. Same load range, but quite a bit less weight, and higher efficiency. I went with them, because I was trying to reduce the front end road transfer from expansion joints, pot holes, DOT's, rough roads into the front passenger seats. I like these too. The XZE*'s were replaced at just under age 7, no major cracking, some lite surface cracks around some of the stampings, along the meaty part of the sidewalls. I'll call them hairline cracks, not the kind that you see when others post pictures of sever cracking in tires. I also would have zero reservations about using Toyo, Hankook, BF Goodrich tires. I just helped a friend choose new shoes. He went with the XZA2's on the steers, and Hankook AH37 on the rear position. Lots of choices, best of luck on your decision, Smitty
Smitty77 04/03/19 09:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar Sanity check (SSC?)

Just a few more bits of input for you: -Design what you think your end goal will be upfront (Or at least, get close to it.) -Source components that support that end goal. (Even if you start with smaller panels, battery size now - source charging and controller and cabling, etc. - that will support your end goal. Will keep you from possibly needing to replace a component later - buy it once.) -Instead of turning off your fridge, consider placing a smaller inverter to power the fridge, into your design. (This way you can turn off the large inverter when not needed, and keep the smaller inverter with less overhead AH's usage running, to power the fridge. It also provides some redundancies for you, in case an inverter goes out - you can swap things around on the CB to feed power to the fridge from either inverter source.) Best of luck to you, and have fun along the way, Smitty
Smitty77 02/24/19 11:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: looking at a 2006 american coach tradition 42r

If it has the Cummins 8.9 ISL, get the engine Serial Number, and see if the engine falls within the suspect Wrist Pins series of ISL's. If so, it would be a negotiation point. At least enough off of price, to cover an extended warranty to handle problems from a failure related to the Wrist Pins. Not up on American Coaches enough to help you with any more input specific to that rig. Best of luck to you, Smitty
Smitty77 02/24/19 10:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries

Yep - The devils are in the detail of the specific inverter/charger you have. As noted, Magnum has AGM 1 setting, which is for Lifeline - and - AGM 2 setting, which is for other AGM's. But depending on how old the inverter is, if it is a Magnum - one that Lifeline made a slight change to their recommended Float value in their Feb, 2017 Tech Manual. So for older Magnum's, you now need to go in and use Custom profile. And I agree with the input that regardless of inverter/charger - refer to Lifeline's recommended values, and set your Charger to as close this as possible. When in doubt, Lifeline has great Tech Support to bounce questions off of... And also agree with the 8 years with the previous bank was good - so you were doing something right with them. I'll share that my X's 4 L16's Lifeline's - walked down - due to a mistake I had made. So I replaced them at 5 1/2 years... After working with both Magnum (MS2812) and Lifeline's Tech Support - I've now added a periodic Conditioning regimen to my calendar, as preventative sulfating avoidance maintenance. Every three months, I run a four hour conditioning on them. If I ever detect/test diminished capacity signs - I'll do an 8 hour Conditioning run. Best of luck to you with the new bank, Smitty (Note: A plug for a company that does back their products. Lifeline helped me determine what had happened to my bank, with input from Magnum too. Even though I was 6 months our of warranty - Lifeline made me a great offer of a discount on a replacement bank of the same. They did not need to do this, they could have just points out that I'd had that mistake in their care. Pretty cool in my book!!!) And, they took my old bank back in, to run some further tests on them - to see if the could recover them further then I could. (One out of the 4, was weaker then the other three, which dragged the other three down to that level. I could have limped along for sometime on that existing bank at the diminished capacity. But the offer to replace made it a no brainer:)!)
Smitty77 02/03/19 02:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries

I'm not in Sam's Club as often as Costco. But I've noted the in Costco, different regions of the country may have different suppliers of GC2's. Perhaps Sam's Club is that way too? And OP, only other item I'll add, at least until you quality what your objective's for Best is to you:)! If you boon dock/dry camp often, the fastest recharging (Shore Power/Generator/Solar/Wind) batteries will be: 1) Lithium 2) AGM (Lifeline's are ~20% faster at recharging - if you have a charging system that can maximize power in Bulk mode. We have X's 4 Lifeline L16's - and wish our Magnum MS2812 could produce more power for Bulk, as Lifelne's, especially this size bank, can handle just about anything you can toss at them:)!) 3) Conventional Wet So if one of your criteria's is for faster re-charge, their's some Hmmm info for you:)! Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 02/03/19 01:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can I use a WDH on a DP

Have you tried moving the trailer contents around to reduce the tongue weight? The only two heavy items in the trailer are a side x side utv and a small suv(Suzuki grand Vitara). With the Suzuki facing forward I have a tongue weight of close to 1500lbs. Iif I back it in so that the engine is behind the trailer axles, it puts the tongue weight at 1200 lbs. Too much weight unless I find out that my hitch is rated for more than the 1000lbs that I think it is. I'd keep doing what your doing, and ensure the hitch is up to snuff to handle the tongue weight. That being said, I know a gent that had a similar problem with is two axle enclosed trailer. He was not over the weight of the trailer itself, and was about 3K under his DP's hitch 10K capacity. But, his tongue weight was high. He tried, as you did, to balance the load better with more over the twin axles. helped some, but not enough to get him comfortable. He had his DP looked at from a well known trailer hitch shop in the area, and they suggested he cold improve his tongue weight by some rather dramatic cutting and welding to beef up where his hitch attaches to the frame. (Probably the H pattern mentioned earlier(?) - but never got into the specifics with him on what was involved.) But the shop said they could for a fraction of the cost add some weight to the back of his includes trailer rails, to pendulum wise get the tongue weight back within capacity. He elected to go that route, as he was using the trailer to run back and forth to the desert from the San Diego area. So if you don't mind the extra weight being towed, which for your usage is always vs weekend warrior usage.... Possibly consider adding more weight to the trailer rear end. (They welded a new bar between the rear frame, with some heavy pieces of solid metal added the new cross member to get the weight they wanted. All galvanized and properly painted - clean job.) Best of luck to you. And glad to see you being proactive on this. Safety is not an accident:)! Smitty
Smitty77 01/23/19 11:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Prevost Bus or Newmar King Air

Have never owned either of these two coaches. But have gone thru similar 'What it's!' analysis when trying to decide if we would sell our current 'vacation home' (Former home in San Diego, now our 'vacation home'.) - and go truly sticks & bricks homeless:)! Some observations: -Prevost would provide the highest safety to occupants in case of an accident. -Prevost have different levels of quality as far as the modifier's are concerned. If shopping news, pay close attention to OTR AC, as many modifiers do not provide an adequate source of front cooling. -Prevost would cost more to maintain over the years. But, I agree that as far as getting the work done, it is with shorter wait time to get in for service, and usually faster turn around time getting back out and on the road. -Newmar's King Aire is fine Class A higher end rig. At that budget range, you'd end up with a newer coach and you obviously like the cosmetics and interior layout - or it would not be the one you were comparing it too. What we've been doing so far, is putting more money into our coach. Modifying the interior to our specific likes. Making minor mechanical enhancements. Adding solar, beefing up house bank battery size, installing higher end HiFi (I'm a HiFi junkie.). Etc., etc. I say 'so far' - as while we expect to retain our 'vacation home' for the foreseeable future (MIL is living in it, and would not be able to afford to live in a good quality of life without this roof over her head. So we've committed to retain the home as long as it is appropriate for her to live in.). But, we have another home in San Diego, that we'll be selling sometime in the next few years ahead. At that time, I've been suggesting to the DW that we also change coaches. Not because their is anything wrong with our coach, we still like it. But because I'd like a coach with a bit more power, and at minimum front disc brakes. Perhaps move from 40' to 42-43', to add a third full basement bay. Or the other option, is to put another $35-50K into our older lower down the food chain CC Allure. (Grind out micro checking, paint, new flooring, shift to lithium from Lifeline's, etc. - as we do like the layout and cabinet space in our Allure.) Or, also part of the 'What if's'. Are these other three options: -Newer used coach (2006 Country Coach Magna with C13, Foretravel with ISM, Mountain Aire with ISM, Wanderlodge LXI with Detroit Series 60.) (Note on the Wanderlodge LXI. It is probably in between the Newmar and Prevost as far as strength of chassis and shell, and can make a good foundation to customize into what an owner may want interior wise.) -New Newmar Mountain Aire or possibly Foretravel Realm - and customize to our specific interior likes. -Keep our CC Allure as is. And also buy a park model to place at the Escapees Evergreen, and possibly a private lot with Casita in Yuma area. (We also have a lot at Pacific Shores in Newport, OR - that we're not sure what we'll do with.) My DW and I both feel, and hope, to have a good 10-15 years of traveling ahead of us. But we already see that we're enjoying going to a region, and staying for a minimum of a month, sometimes longer. We like to have time to do the local museums, and will take two or three days trips to closer by locations with the toad. And expect that our miles driven per year will drop as a result of this current trend of traveling. The park model on the Olympic Peninsula, as well as a lot in Yuma area (Perhaps Tucson, which we have not ruled out.) would provide us with longer term 'anchor' locations to back & forth from as we travel less. We've also been looking at our longer term total exit strategy from RV'ing. Possibly retaining our current 'vacation home' in San Diego. But more probable we think we'll buy a lot in the next 5 years in either the Prescott region, or possibly Sedona/Clarksdale/Camp Verde region - where we'd eventually build our 'forever home'. So OP? Why share all this with you? Well I've read many of your posts over the years, I do not know you well enough to know if you two have your 'exit strategy' covered, and or, planned for. While I could see my DW and I enjoying a Prevost, and frankly we could swing the costs of maintenance... I feel due to our lower miles per year of travel ahead, I'd rather either keep the existing coach and upgrade more, or if I can convince the DW, get one of the other used RV's mentioned above - and start the process of upgrading a coach with the bigger engine and added safety of the disc brakes. I wish you luck on your decision, and do what the both of you feel is right for you now, and for the long haul... And to be sure, not trying to preach to you, or any member, on keeping an eye on and preparing for an 'exit strategy'. (I always appreciated a form Country Coach owner who sort of took me under his wing, to make sure my DW and I were looking at the total picture ahead:)!) Best to you, and all, travel safe have fun, Smitty
Smitty77 01/23/19 10:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A tire protection coatings

I use Aerospace 303 regularly. A former Country Coach fellow owner said he'd had good results with Sunblock. It is applied like a paint one time. He said it had worked well for him on a few sets of tires.Ā®/dp/B0043MZHM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1548259534&sr=8-2&keywords=tire+sunblock I also 'exercise our tires' (Along with our coach!) on a 4-6 week schedule, getting everything back up to temperature. And maintain proper PSI based upon Four Corner weights. Regular inspections for signs of damage from these harsh roadways we travel on. Best to all, travel safe, have fun, Smitty
Smitty77 01/23/19 09:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Rear tires balance

I have all tires/wheels balanced. I pay the tire tech $10 extra tip per tire, for showing me how well he has positioned the tire on the wheel to avoid egg rolling. Each axle has Centramatic's. Tires are on our RV's from 5 -10 years, depending upon what an owner feels is his comfort zone. (I target replacement of my tires at between 6-7 years of age.) So if you spread the cost of an $80 tip, and the costs of balancing to the shop, over those 6-7 years - well, it sure is not too much to do so:)! Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty
Smitty77 01/23/19 09:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which batteries do I buy.

This spring I plan to buy new batteries for our 34 ft 5th wheel. We have room for three batteries. Is it better to have two six volt batteries instead of one twelve volt and is Interstate a good company. As mentioned, it really depends on how you plan to use your rig, to determine the appropriate battery to choose. If you have room for three batteries, you will get largest bank of AH's by going with 12V. Which 12V, well that becomes the question of budget, and how much you want to spend: -AGM's such as Full River or Lifeline, will cost you more. -Trojan T-1275 are true deep cycle 12V batteries, and are also a good chance of change. -You asked about Interstate. Well, they are not what the used to be. But, they are certainly no worse then any others of the middle of the pack of battery flavors:)! -Some areas of the country. Sam's Club and Costco do have generic 12V Deep Cycle batteries. Usually Wet, but I've actually seen some AGM's in different regions. These Sam's and Costco's will probably be your best bang for the buck as far as price vs performance. -And as mentioned, you can drop down the price point a bit more, and get a Marine Grade battery. Able to do both 'starter duty' and 'some deeper cycle usage' duty too - but a compromise on both. If you do not yet have a battery management system (Not the 25. 50, 75. 100% light kind.), you might look into adding one of those first. (Search as lots of input on two or three of the more popular ones.). Then do a few pretend camping energy audits, to see what your actual usage is. Factor your charging capability, generator or solar or both - and your own personal threshold for being comfortable running a generator. And this will lead you to determine the battery size might work for you. Really comes down to what you feel you want, vs how much you want to spend:)! Best of luck to you, Smitty
Smitty77 10/29/18 10:04pm General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 2  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS