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A flash back today - to former member Sully!

We're relaxing in the warm high 63 temps of the Oregon Coast today after several days of rain... Decided it would be a good day to go to lunch, convinced the wife (Did not complete the sentence, before she said Yes!), and off we went. A local Mexican restaurant on Hwy 101 in Newport, OR. So as we're making sure the salsa and hot sauce were good, 'chipping' as we wait for our lunches... I look out the window at stop light. And a vintage Country Coach, pre paint cream color unit with gel coat, was at the light. (In great shape I might add!). And then a gent walks into the eating room wearing a Sombrero... Sully!!! It made me think of former Forum member Sully!!! His picture with the Sombrero perched on his head... And of course, he was one of those 'fanatical' Country Coach Owner's!!! (As I have become myself... And I know that the messages back and forth with Sully, helped make my decision to buy a Country Coach... It's funny how we can make relationships, and in many cases never meeting in person - via these forums... Point of my message? Well a 'Salute to Sully!!!'... Sure, he could cranky at times. But his wit, and his willing to share his opinion and knowledge - is what RV'ing and Forum Member's holing each other - was all about... A smile to you Sully. (And Sir, I left a tab open for you, stop in fro a Pacifico on me!!!). Ok, back to RV stuff. But please all, remember those who take the time to help us when we need it... Sully, was such a member... Best to all, Smitty
Smitty77 10/23/19 11:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher

Slight correction-- Alpine brakes are all wheel HYDRAULIC over hydraulic disk brakes. Beginning in the 2001 model year 4 piston, fixed caliper disk brakes. Agree- very good handling chassis. Their ISL's were equipped with engine compression brakes. Many coaches with ISL's had exhaust brakes. The engine compression brake was an up-charge option. Bret - Thanks for the correction on the Brakes... (I should stop trying to do two things at the same time - have trouble doing one correctly now a days:)! And also confirming the Jake in the Alpine... Was pretty sure it did (And when I went back to close of the link, I took the time to go read the add vs just looking at the pictures... Yep, Jake it said:)!). Any opinion on my opinion that Disk Brakes should yield shorter stopping distances, all things being equal except Disk vs Drums? Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 10/09/19 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher

Alpines have I believe 36-40' Mid Entry Door coaches. I prefer Tag's for 40', but the Peak Chassis is known as one of the better handling Chassis on the market - so if not pulling a heavy trailer and or lots of CCC needed, would be trade off a bit less tight cornering maneuverability for better handling. Especially if looking for Mid Entry Doors. One other uniqueness to the Alpine Peak Chassis, is Hydraulic Over Air Brakes. And this ISL should be a Jake Compression. And Apline's usually have all axle Disc Brakes... (On Disc brakes. IMO, identical coaches with identical weights and going identical speeds - a Disc Brake (At least on the Steers.) will stop shorter in an emergency stop, then all axle Drums. At highway speeds, and based upon many variables, 10-20' shorter stopping would not surprise me.). Here is one example of a 40' (Actually looks like well cared for (As much as pictures can tell...), and lots of storage, well appointed. : https://www.rvt.com/Western-RV-Alpine-Coach-40-Mid-Door-Triple-Slide-2007-Little-Falls-MN-ID8794932-UX142448 On Air vs Jack Leveling. Pro's and Con's (As with all things in RV's:)!) Just a few comments, and for sure not a complete comparison: No need to put out pads or blocks with Air Leveling; No stuck in the mud Jack Feet with Air Leveling; Air Leveling can have less range, in difficult leveling contains (But, you can put blocks under tires.); Air Leveling can give you some rocking when walking and or in strong winds; And a final comment on this brief info - Some coaches had both Air Leveling and Jacks available... So more weight, but also more options... Happy hunting, Smitty
Smitty77 10/09/19 03:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help Switching to 40' Pusher

Some food for thought. 1) The ISL, or CAT C9, will many times get you 2 Stage Jake Compression. vs Exhaust; 2) The ISL vs ISC gets you the mentioned 1200 LBS Torque, and depending upon specific coach and year, should be between 400-450HP; 3) Tag vs Non Tag searches are worth reading. Yes, they do add weight to the coach (Which should also get you the ISL or C9.). The key thing Tag's do for a 40' DP is more CCC, higher stability while driving, especially in windy conditions, and the Drive Axle is closer to the Steers - so much more maneuverable when moving around and into a space in say a campground. (Our 40' Tag, turns tighter then our 28' Bounder without IFS. Sure, you have to be aware of tail swing... But much easier to maneuver and park in tight areas.). Another benefit of going to a Tag, is usually (NO, not ALWAYS) it gets you higher up in the food chain of a manufacturers coaches. This usually yields better chassis, and better built houses. Last comment is on the years you're considering, 2008-2012, understand the shifts in smog levels on the engines. An earlier smog level engine, sometimes is an easier engine to maintain thru the years. My general advice to someone starting the journey for a DP, is to: Determine a budget range, set aside $10-15K for Post Purchase expenses. (Catch-up on any deferred maintenance items, to establish a solid baseline for you to maintain from that point forward. As well as minor interior mod's to make it 'your coach'.) Go out and kick many tires, sit in many coaches (Slides out and in) and visualize livability. Narrow down to a list of Manufactures and Models and years that you like, then start the search. In general, I always recommend dropping years to remain within budget, and buy the highest quality model coach that meets your needs and that you like. Quality lasts. And the higher quality models, usually had superior chassis and engine/trans combinations - and these make a good foundation to carry the house forward over the years. Last list of suggestions, is continue to research some of these features, to determine which are, or are not, important to you: -Side vs Rear Radiator -Tag vs Non Tag -Drums all around vs at least Disc on Steers -CCC -Aqua/Hydro/Oasis heating vs Propane Water and Furnace heating -Heated tile floors vs none -Raised Rail chassis construction -Slide out generator vs non slide out -Xs 2 AC vs X's 3 AC -Jake vs Exhaust -3 Way Fridge vs Residential Fridge -Tank capacity (Grey/Black tanks sizes - can often dictate how long you can boon dock - if important to you.) -Slides qty. (Each slide adds additional weight, and weakens the house structure. Each slide can take about 6" on each of the slide (1') of wall cabinet space. Each slide can also lower upper cabinet space by 6-8". Each slide adds complexity.) -Leveling Air vs Jacks vs Both -Front Entry door vs Mid Entry Door (Majority of DP's are Front, but some Mid exist.) Only you two can decide what is, or is not, important to the two of you... But I'll share that I'd rather have an older higher quality DP with larger block engine (C12, C13, DD Series 60, ISM), Tag, Rear Radiator coach - then a newer entry to mid level/tier quality coach. Opinions vary and the most important thing is for the two of you to do what you feel is right for you... Happy hunting, and best to you and all, Smitty
Smitty77 10/09/19 10:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ambient air sensor 2002 Monaco I S C engine

Perhaps this thread might help with some hints:)! http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/where-is-the-baromertic-air-pressure-sensor-located-390403.html Good luck, Smitty
Smitty77 07/19/19 10:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Smitty, did you mean "amps" when you posted "AH" in your question? Perhaps you could edit that if so, to make the question more understandable. Thanks. Corrected, and thanks. And sorry my rambling was not clear - coffee delivery problems today:)! Basically wanted to confirm that higher charging rate levels for Lifeline's, is preferable to lower charging rate levels. To avoid sulfation. And that I had interpreted MW's comment about larger battery banks, and living on the upper range of SOC, can pay dividends too... Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 04:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar and Lifeline

MW & BFL13 - You two have probably learned, forgotten, learned again and forgot that you had once forgotten - more then I've been able to absorb over the last 15 years or so on batteries and charging in general. (Intended as a complement!). Rolls, Trojan - have both been mentioned by you in the last few threads. The OP has Lifeline's (And as you both may recall as you both helped me with my bank - I have Lifeline X's 4 L16's too. Lifeline seem to provide different guidance on a bank of their batteries can handle as far as higher Amps (Thanks BFL13!), then other AGM's. (I don't know the specific's on the differences between say what Rolls, Trojan, Crown, Etc. state for their AGM's, in comparison to Lifeline's.) MW - You mentioned adding more battery AH capability, to live off of a higher SOC depletion point overnight. I basically did this, as we usually at about 75% SOC + or - 3 to 5% depending upon overnight heating and or running of fans for cooling. I did this, to try and reduce the volume of DOD Cycles usage. After I walked my previous bank of the same batteries down. I did mention that a Lifeline Tech did spend a good deal of time trying to help me recover my existing bank. And one of the key things I took away from my conversations with him, and from the input provided to me by you two and others and other forums - was that adding higher AH's during Bulk/Absorb cycles help avoid sulfation build up on the mats. So with Lifeline having a higher recommended AH's of goosing during those phases then other AGM manufactures - and I'm now doing that with my new bank, is not the higher 'juice' a better way of avoiding sulfate build up. (And as mentioned, I also do periodic Conditioning now too, also at the recommendation of the Tech. Under different time cycles based upon battery usage over the weeks prior. As I read the info in the last few posts in this thread, I've inferred (Maybe incorrectly?) - that higher 'juice' levels are detrimental to AGM's? (Sure, they have a 'fixed' amount of material on the mats, but I'm not drying these out by ever getting near 'venting' escape levels...). And OP. Not trying to hijack this thread. You have Lifeline's, smaller size bank and you do seem to push them to the 50% SOC level vs my 75% SOC levels - but specifically for Lifeline's, is why I'm asking the question to these gents to clarify if I've miss understood them:)! Best to you all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 10:50am Tech Issues
RE: Problem with Extended Warranty

OP - I wish you luck, and hope your policy is as mentioned, where it specifically spells out what is 'not included', and thus all other items should be covered. Agree that WW will be your friend in determining if it's an appropriate item the Insurance/Warranty company should be covering. I'd suggest out of fairness to WW, that you send a request to a Moderator to change the title to state Problem With Extended Warranty - not WW:)! And not to add to your pain, but maximize the labor costs involved in the removal, and have other items tested on your dime, replace and or refurbish as needed.... Best, Smitty
Smitty77 05/14/19 10:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar and Lifeline

Always enjoy reading posts here, a fine cast of 'character's' for sure:)! (That, was intended as a complement!). I won't repeat the full story of my opportunity to learn (Burn as you learn! (Or in my case: Burned as I learned!), with my bank of X's 4 L16's Lifeline. Many of the posters in this thread, and a few members of IRV2 too, helped me thru the phases of: -What the heck happened? -No, this can't be true? -What do you mean Smart Chargers, are not all that smart! -Realization that I was lucky to only have two feet, or more would had been blown off by 'operator error'. -Ouch, this is going to be expensive!!! The short of it, is I walked my bank of L16's down by constantly undercharging. My bank was oversized enough for day to day needs, that it was not until they'd walked down quite aways - that I started to see 'Something ain't right!'. (Combo of doing what I thought was the right thing, based upon the info I had at that time. And a willingness to trust the logic programmed in by the engineers on my specific Smart Charger...). End result, with good tech support from Magnum and Lifeline (And sanity checks and pearls of wisdom from here and IRV2.) - it was determined the bank were shot at about 5 1/2 years. Lifeline made me an offer I could not refuse, and showed the character of the company in doing so, and I replaced the bank with exact duplicate!! OP - You have what you have. And it does sound like you have not damaged them beyond reasonable recovery. Lifeline calls equalizing - conditioning. So I'd agree with earlier input to get your battery bank back up to where it is truly fully charged. Take out and take home and use a stand alone old fashion charger if needed. Get them to fully charged, then run a full Conditioning run on them, to shake off any sulfation build up. You already have your solar panels. Sure you might be able to add more. But I also agree with the input here, to not give up on the bank of batteries you have, and or your desire to go use your rig. Do watch Craigslist for a good buy on a smaller generator. Honda, Yamaha - whatever. Do get yourself one more good quality purchase of a stand alone charger, the one MW recommends is fine. And yep, do run it. If maybe not a night, and you have some good sunshine, perhaps get a good bulk/absorb charge into the battery in the AM - and see if the solar can top things off. If not, then hit the bank again in the evening. (Many people seem to due so when running AC to cool things off in hotter climates, or to say cook and use a microwave.). Do make it habit of investing the costs of fuel, to run that generator enough to get back to fully charged on a periodic basis. The 3 days to as high as you can get it, and then the 4th day to fully charged - would be for sure better then what you have been doing:)! ------ Going back to me, and what I've done differently. I've reset the Magnum MS2812 parameters to the best options I can, based upon software limitations. (Both for usage while out and about in the RV, and also for while in storage and 'maintaining' mode.). I've also tuned my MidNite Classic 150 Controller, and have enabled the WhzBngJr module's capability to end charge based upon Finishing Amps. The changes to the MS2812 and Classic 150 have been working well so far. But the final change I made to my maintenance of the new bank, is to 'goose' the bank every 4-6 weeks (Depending upon usage. If going park to park and not really drawing down on the house bank. I do this every 4 weeks. If boon docking and 'cycling' the battery bank, I move it out to 6 weeks.) I run a conditioning cycle. MW mentioned the 90% of premature failure of AGM's, is due to consistent undercharged conditions. This a common theme of my research from 'How the heck did I ruing my bank!'. On a combo of RV/Boating/Offgrid homes/cabins forums. I've also read many threads about a certain poster here, who has kept his Northstar AGM (Thin plates, as I recall:)!) healthy and supportive of his usage - much longer then is the norm of most of mere mortals.... Lithiums? Sure, in the future (As much for reduction of weight, as in the ability to not fully charge.). Probably Drop In's, but who knows, may go with a custom cell by cell built bank that fits the eventual space I determine will be utilized. (If Drop In's. Will go in the existing basement, which will be well insulated and protected from cold, and have already determined how I can install a few pancake fans to push/pull Air Conditioned air from inside of the coaches rear bedroom. If not drop in's, will face the wrath of the DW, and place them under out bed, and out of the way of the rear slide out mechanism. But, this is directly over the engine, and heat gain is a reality - that mid size block of diesel engine, heat mass does take along time to cool down. So, not sure yet where or what I'll install.) But I'm hoping this is another 5-7 years away. Things are consistently evolving on the Lithium world, some price drops too - so we'll see what is going on when the time comes! I wish you good luck on your bank, and have some fun too! Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 05/13/19 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Michelin tires

OP - Sorry your tires were cracking at that age - no doubt about it, the wallet gets dipped into when this happens:)! Can you share whether or not you exercise your coach, and tires, on a semi regular 4-6 week interval? Or, does your coach sometimes sit for longer periods between trips. Or are you a full timer and put many miles on per month? I'm asking, because how the tire is maintained/exercised, could have a baring on how long it will last. And just a general comment. Naming a brand of tire, like Michelin, and saying anything about it - is relatively meaningless without knowing the specific model. (Sort of like some driving a Ford Pinto, saying that 'Ford's are slow!' - Well a GT40 owner might have a differing perspective on 'Ford's'...) Specific's matter, and can help others as they research. (Just my opinion:)!). And tires are very much like Dino vs Syn, or Chevy vs Ford, or (Whatever vs Whatever) - people have different experiences with a 'Brand' - and anyone who does not see the wisdom in using 'that brand' - well, they might as well just move on down the road... And larger manufactures of any product, have many variants and models - sometimes one will suck. But to say all of the products from that manufactures 'suck' is not always true and or fair. Ford for example, had the Pinto Fuel Tank issue. Chevy had the Nadar(SP?) Corvair issue. Audi had the false Sudden Acceleration of I believe the early 5000 issue. Michelin certainly had problem with their 'Passenger like XRV tires for RV's, believe this was the famous Zipper Tire. Heck, Ford Explorer's had the evil Firestone tires... To say everything is bad from a manufacturer from a problem with one product, well... Many good tires available. Many times at different price points. And lower cost, does not always mean lower quality. And higher cost, does not always mean high quality. I do have mostly Micelin's (And practicing what I preached above, first set I put on were XZE*'s. Due to a deep sharp edged pot hole I had to replace two tires during a Michelin tire shortage period. Ended up with 2 BF Goodrich ST230, which also seemed to be a solid, good bang for the buck tire. The current set of tires, are Michelin XZA2's.) My next set? Well, it's out about 5-6 years - and who knows what I'll go with. No problem with Hankook's, Cooper, Toyo's, Bridgestone, Continetal, Yokohama to name a few. I don't shop by price alone, I research and shop based upon several criteria, of which price is towards the bottom of the decision process. I suspect that if I'd bought a set of any tires, and felt I had maintained and exercised them well, and they started to crack earlier then I felt they should of - yep, I'd be not too anxious to try another of the same 'model' of tire. But I would not eliminate the manufacturer based upon one set of of one model that had a problem... OK, done rambling. And now excuse me, I must get over to my HiFi forums. Some members are insisting that Digital can sound as good as Analog - well, what are they thinking???!!! (LP's a spinning, tubes a glowing - oh yeah HiFi:)!)... Best to all, have fun, be safe, Smitty
Smitty77 04/25/19 10:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Salute to Sully (Sully2) - miss his posts...

So glad his forum imprint is still remembered.... As a rookie on forums, and RV'ing - I was at times just a tad intimidated by some of the forum veterans (Sully:)!). But the moment his picture started to include a Sombrero - and I learned he was a mere Aerospace Engineer - I understood that a mortal was behind the keypad. I never had the pleasure to meet him in person, but we did have a few private emails and phone calls. He helped me quite a bit, on moving from our Bounder to our Country Coach:)! And Ivylog - While I'll not forget Jonny T., I admit that the odds are, I'll forget where I put my keys before the weekend is over:)! (Always appreciate, your posts.) Best to you all, Smitty
Smitty77 04/12/19 10:26pm Class A Motorhomes
Salute to Sully (Sully2) - miss his posts...

I was doing some research today to help someone comparing older Country Coaches to Newmar's of the same era. As I did so, on many forum searches, and Google too... I found multiple times that that Sully (Sully2) came up in responses... What a character! Sure, he could get grumpy from time to time... But dang it, great wit, solid knowledge, and for a semi reformed Engineer (We both came from Aerospace backgrounds:)!), at times he acted almost as a mere mortal... tolerating us that were 'non engineer's:)!'. (Last comment, was written and intended in the utmost respect!!). Sure, many years his picture included a Mexcan Sombrero - possibly taken at a non 'Engineer's', post beverage consumption moment:)! But dang it, you always KNEW what Sully felt about any give subject... Sure hope the current owner's of his Country Coach (Or, if still with the family!) - are having a blast with it... Sully would for sure approve (And be the first to send a lightening bolt, if not approving...). SALUTE TO SULLY (Sully2)... RIP:)! And thanks for your sharing of yourself on RV.NET... Best all, Smitty (98 Bounder. Now, 04 CC Allure!)
Smitty77 04/10/19 10:39pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Wind Handling

As covered by others already, many variables in coaches and wind related handling. For some coaches, aftermarket component additions can be of great help. But some coaches, usually the entry level of a manufacturer, have way too much 'tail hang'. Shorter chassis, but still longer coaches, are not a good formula in the wind. While add on components will help this some, these coaches will never be as good of handling in the wind, as those with better Wheel Base to Coach Length proportions. And yep, many call it snake oil, but I've personally seen the improvements in especially shifting wind conditions, of using Air Tabs. I did do many of the handling components add on's and shocks to our 99 F53 18K Chassis (T-28 Bounder, so did not have much of a tail hang, compared to many I've seen on the road:)!). If you find that the wind does disturb you while driving, and decide to improve suspension and handling, consider Air Tabs in that mix too. Not expensive, and even after all of the other mod's I made - they really helped too. Cumulative in my specifics. And no matter what I had done to the Bounder, no comprising to a DP with Tag:)! Best of luck to you, Smitty
Smitty77 04/03/19 10:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motor homes over the years

Doug - Would value your confirmation on the added problems of RV ownerships due to the rapid number of smog related regulations rolled out? From about say 2005 and on smog regulations, and thus the need of the engine manufactures to design and certify (Many times on very short cycles.) new equipment to meet the new regulations.) (And note: This is not intended as a anti smog post, it's about the frequency of the changes and how they were rolled out...). Many systems and components in RV's, but I've watched forums traffic in the engine related areas problems grow due to the teething pains of new smog levels equipments maturing cycle. TIA for your perception, Smitty
Smitty77 04/03/19 10:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Michelin 22.5 tires

Compare the weight of the XZE to other tires in the same size, they weight more. This is because they have sidewalls designed to handle the abuse of delivery and bus drivers, kissing the curb and other items over their usage life cycle. We had the XZE* in 12R size for our first set of tires on our 40' DP. We lost the outside dual, and the tag on the passenger side due to impact on a fresh/deep/sharp edge pot hole (Would have probably sunk dow to the axle, but I think a VW was at the bottom of the whole!) on Hwy 99 North of Bakersfield. (Raining, in the right lane, and being passed by a convoy of trucks in the left lane, vehicles parked on the shoulder of the road. I saw what I thought was a pot hole, was able to slow down a bit, but took my foot off of the brake once I got the front end around the hole. Not able to do so on the rears:)!) It was a hard enough impact that I drove to the next safe place to pull off, about two miles up, and went out to inspect. I saw a bulge in the outside Dual, but did not see another, I'll say ripple, in the tag until the next day at the RV Park. Broken cord in one, and a slipped cord in the other. The TCI that I stopped at to have it looked over, dismounted both tires for inspection. First the Tire Tech, and about 5 minutes later when the Manager came to take a look stated basically the same thing. I was lucky the impact to the dual did not cause a blowout. It was the Manager said that it was because the XZE had the stronger sidewalls. (Unfortunately, they did not have the tires I needed in stock, and I elected to have them put back on and I kept my speed to 50-55, until I could get to a shop that had two replacements that were young enough to get. Put those on the steers, and moved the old steers to the damaged positions. I like the XZE. That being said, the current set is the XZA2 in 295/80. Same load range, but quite a bit less weight, and higher efficiency. I went with them, because I was trying to reduce the front end road transfer from expansion joints, pot holes, DOT's, rough roads into the front passenger seats. I like these too. The XZE*'s were replaced at just under age 7, no major cracking, some lite surface cracks around some of the stampings, along the meaty part of the sidewalls. I'll call them hairline cracks, not the kind that you see when others post pictures of sever cracking in tires. I also would have zero reservations about using Toyo, Hankook, BF Goodrich tires. I just helped a friend choose new shoes. He went with the XZA2's on the steers, and Hankook AH37 on the rear position. Lots of choices, best of luck on your decision, Smitty
Smitty77 04/03/19 09:50am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Solar Sanity check (SSC?)

Just a few more bits of input for you: -Design what you think your end goal will be upfront (Or at least, get close to it.) -Source components that support that end goal. (Even if you start with smaller panels, battery size now - source charging and controller and cabling, etc. - that will support your end goal. Will keep you from possibly needing to replace a component later - buy it once.) -Instead of turning off your fridge, consider placing a smaller inverter to power the fridge, into your design. (This way you can turn off the large inverter when not needed, and keep the smaller inverter with less overhead AH's usage running, to power the fridge. It also provides some redundancies for you, in case an inverter goes out - you can swap things around on the CB to feed power to the fridge from either inverter source.) Best of luck to you, and have fun along the way, Smitty
Smitty77 02/24/19 11:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: looking at a 2006 american coach tradition 42r

If it has the Cummins 8.9 ISL, get the engine Serial Number, and see if the engine falls within the suspect Wrist Pins series of ISL's. If so, it would be a negotiation point. At least enough off of price, to cover an extended warranty to handle problems from a failure related to the Wrist Pins. Not up on American Coaches enough to help you with any more input specific to that rig. Best of luck to you, Smitty
Smitty77 02/24/19 10:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries

Yep - The devils are in the detail of the specific inverter/charger you have. As noted, Magnum has AGM 1 setting, which is for Lifeline - and - AGM 2 setting, which is for other AGM's. But depending on how old the inverter is, if it is a Magnum - one that Lifeline made a slight change to their recommended Float value in their Feb, 2017 Tech Manual. So for older Magnum's, you now need to go in and use Custom profile. http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6-0101-Rev-E-Lifeline-Technical-Manual.pdf And I agree with the input that regardless of inverter/charger - refer to Lifeline's recommended values, and set your Charger to as close this as possible. When in doubt, Lifeline has great Tech Support to bounce questions off of... And also agree with the 8 years with the previous bank was good - so you were doing something right with them. I'll share that my X's 4 L16's Lifeline's - walked down - due to a mistake I had made. So I replaced them at 5 1/2 years... After working with both Magnum (MS2812) and Lifeline's Tech Support - I've now added a periodic Conditioning regimen to my calendar, as preventative sulfating avoidance maintenance. Every three months, I run a four hour conditioning on them. If I ever detect/test diminished capacity signs - I'll do an 8 hour Conditioning run. Best of luck to you with the new bank, Smitty (Note: A plug for a company that does back their products. Lifeline helped me determine what had happened to my bank, with input from Magnum too. Even though I was 6 months our of warranty - Lifeline made me a great offer of a discount on a replacement bank of the same. They did not need to do this, they could have just points out that I'd had that mistake in their care. Pretty cool in my book!!!) And, they took my old bank back in, to run some further tests on them - to see if the could recover them further then I could. (One out of the 4, was weaker then the other three, which dragged the other three down to that level. I could have limped along for sometime on that existing bank at the diminished capacity. But the offer to replace made it a no brainer:)!)
Smitty77 02/03/19 02:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries

I'm not in Sam's Club as often as Costco. But I've noted the in Costco, different regions of the country may have different suppliers of GC2's. Perhaps Sam's Club is that way too? And OP, only other item I'll add, at least until you quality what your objective's for Best is to you:)! If you boon dock/dry camp often, the fastest recharging (Shore Power/Generator/Solar/Wind) batteries will be: 1) Lithium 2) AGM (Lifeline's are ~20% faster at recharging - if you have a charging system that can maximize power in Bulk mode. We have X's 4 Lifeline L16's - and wish our Magnum MS2812 could produce more power for Bulk, as Lifelne's, especially this size bank, can handle just about anything you can toss at them:)!) 3) Conventional Wet So if one of your criteria's is for faster re-charge, their's some Hmmm info for you:)! Best to you, and all, Smitty
Smitty77 02/03/19 01:53pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can I use a WDH on a DP

Have you tried moving the trailer contents around to reduce the tongue weight? The only two heavy items in the trailer are a side x side utv and a small suv(Suzuki grand Vitara). With the Suzuki facing forward I have a tongue weight of close to 1500lbs. Iif I back it in so that the engine is behind the trailer axles, it puts the tongue weight at 1200 lbs. Too much weight unless I find out that my hitch is rated for more than the 1000lbs that I think it is. I'd keep doing what your doing, and ensure the hitch is up to snuff to handle the tongue weight. That being said, I know a gent that had a similar problem with is two axle enclosed trailer. He was not over the weight of the trailer itself, and was about 3K under his DP's hitch 10K capacity. But, his tongue weight was high. He tried, as you did, to balance the load better with more over the twin axles. helped some, but not enough to get him comfortable. He had his DP looked at from a well known trailer hitch shop in the area, and they suggested he cold improve his tongue weight by some rather dramatic cutting and welding to beef up where his hitch attaches to the frame. (Probably the H pattern mentioned earlier(?) - but never got into the specifics with him on what was involved.) But the shop said they could for a fraction of the cost add some weight to the back of his includes trailer rails, to pendulum wise get the tongue weight back within capacity. He elected to go that route, as he was using the trailer to run back and forth to the desert from the San Diego area. So if you don't mind the extra weight being towed, which for your usage is always vs weekend warrior usage.... Possibly consider adding more weight to the trailer rear end. (They welded a new bar between the rear frame, with some heavy pieces of solid metal added the new cross member to get the weight they wanted. All galvanized and properly painted - clean job.) Best of luck to you. And glad to see you being proactive on this. Safety is not an accident:)! Smitty
Smitty77 01/23/19 11:53am Class A Motorhomes
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