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 > Your search for posts made by 'StirCrazy' found 627 matches.

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RE: tire time

Buy a LT (truck) tire instead of a ST (trailer} tire. sorry Im of the opinion LT tires are for trucks not trailers that are subjected to the huge sidewall flexing. mind you I wouldnt mind trying some sort of tire with low rolling friction to see if it makes a difference on milage... Actually LT and P tires can and are operated in a trailer position many years before usa tire mfg came out with a ST tire. ST and LT both have to pass a "bead unseating testing" per the FMVSS 571 which has showns no difference. The LT vs ST has been settled 10-12 years ago mostly from lay persons and actual usage. One of our better informed members (SeniorGNC) complied those testing procedures and results in this ST vs LT testing. Bead unseating (sidewall strength) testing shows no difference between a ST or LT. I don't think it was settled, ony that two out of the 4 testing criteria are the same. but I will take another look into my own resorces and who knows, maybe I will look at a LT. only problem is how much would it cost for the same load rating....
StirCrazy 09/27/22 08:52am Fifth-Wheels
RE: tire time

haha on my old trailer I had a blow out on the factory tires that were 10 years old, traded the trailer on the 5th wheel a year later. hit a pretty rough railroad crossing. last month I lost one of the factory tires that was 6 years old on the 5th as I went through the construction zone for the highway that was washed away last fall out here. I am assuming I ran over somthing I didnt notice.... Depending on how conservative you want to be most recommend replacement at around 5-7yrs. At 10yrs, you were living on borrowed time and the payment came due. Even a brand new tire may not survive road debris, so that's not really an indication of a good/bad tire. yup, this last one was just shy of 6 years old.
StirCrazy 09/27/22 08:50am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Upgrade to 5th wheel

I have a 2019 Ford F-250 6.7l diesel. I’m looking at a Grand Design 320MKS but want to make sure my truck can haul it. According to the brochure the trailer is 10,721 UVW. According to Fords towing guide the truck will tow 14,800 lbs. I’m thinking that if it will I may need to beef up the rear suspension. Also, I’m not sure how “UVW” relates to the actual weight I will be towing. Also looking for hitch recommendations. Thanks for any help provided. Lenny fill your truck with fuel and go across a scal and get your front and rear axel weights. on my trailer it advertised a pin weight of 2480 and I added in 200lbs for a hitch but the pin weight actualy came in at 2850 lbs so I had to trade in my older 3/4 tone and get a 1 tone. I just go by axel weight, so if your hooking up a 5th wheel pretty much the whole shot will be going on your rear axel so thats where you need the capacity.
StirCrazy 09/25/22 06:43pm Towing
RE: tire time

Last year I put Sailun, 16 inch G rated on my trailer and I run them at 95 PSI , as recommended by Fountain tire in Kamloops. realy. if you don't mind, send me a PM and let me know how much they charged for them. first time I have seen some one else from kamloops on here. Steve
StirCrazy 09/25/22 06:34pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: tire time

Buy a LT (truck) tire instead of a ST (trailer} tire. sorry Im of the opinion LT tires are for trucks not trailers that are subjected to the huge sidewall flexing. mind you I wouldnt mind trying some sort of tire with low rolling friction to see if it makes a difference on milage...
StirCrazy 09/25/22 06:31pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: tire time

You only buy tires after a blow out? How about post the tire size and the trailer GVWR? I have alway gone by tread and sidewall condition. on the Island we dont get the sun effect as much as say california and when I inspect if there is no weird wear or broken belts they keep getting used. so on the island my tires lasted 10 years before a blowout. when I moved to the interior and got the 5th wheel, last spring I saw one tire with a broken belt and changed it. this year I lost one of the others. both time is road hazard caused though.. but I noticed my spair has a broken belt, I have to replace the blowen one, and that leaves 1 that is 6 years old so I might as well just put new ones on and use my one put on last year as the new spair. Steve
StirCrazy 09/25/22 06:29pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: tire time

Depends on what your trailers OEM axle ratings are. For 5.2k-6k axle I use a good all season tread 16" LT235/85-16 E at 3042 lbs per tire. Michelin XPS Ribs and Bridgestone R238 are a commercial grade all steel ply carcass tire and are tops for those size axles For My triaxle GN stock trailer with 7k axles I use Sailun S637 ST235/80-16 load G tire at max sidewall. In a heavy tire like a load G I personally wouldn't use any pressure less than 90 psi. Those are a very heavy stiff commercial grade tire and like all commercial grade tires they can run hot with lower pressures. What ever tire that lasted 39 years I would stick with that brand...:B haha on my old trailer I had a blow out on the factory tires that were 10 years old, traded the trailer on the 5th wheel a year later. hit a pretty rough railroad crossing. last month I lost one of the factory tires that was 6 years old on the 5th as I went through the construction zone for the highway that was washed away last fall out here. I am assuming I ran over somthing I didnt notice....
StirCrazy 09/25/22 06:24pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: tire time

I happen to think that it isn't necessary to run max sidewall pressure for a tire. IMO you can vary your pressure to reflect the amount of weight on that tire. I ran "G" rated Sailun 16" tires at 95 psi for years, and they still looked good when I sold the trailer, and they were over 6 years old. I was running a triple axle toyhauler with about 2,500 lbs. on each tire, I weighed them so I know. I didn't need to the full 110 psi, and the resultant rough ride. It worked great for me. I used to thing that also untill I realy started diving into it. it might be a mute point if you use the 5th wheel as little as I do laitly but when I retire and start uing it more it will matter. lower air pressure in a ST tire can allow more sidewall flex leading to iregular wear patterens and increased internal tire heat. at least thats what sailun told me as well as 4 other tire manufactures. so now I run full pressure. Steve
StirCrazy 09/25/22 06:21pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: what size inverter.

Mine was measured with a Kill-a-Watt meter--which has been checked against a seriously expensive meter. It is a Dometic. what was the advertised output of that one PT?
StirCrazy 09/24/22 06:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging on Truck Camper

Solar is not complicated. Get a 12 volt solar panel (80 watts will suffice), get a cheap PWT charge controller (10 amps will work) and fuses if you wish. Mount the charge controller close to the battery (connect with 12 awg wire is fine). Mount the solar panel on the roof using Z brackets, then run the same 12 gauge wire and connect to the charge controller. That's it. except don't get a cheep PWT (PWM actualy) controler, get a good MPPT one(more efficient and not much more money, and measure for the biggest panel you can aford. I got my 325 watt split cell 24V panel out of sask but I picked it up at one of there wearhouses out here for 200 3 years ago. other than that ya its easy. I cut out a carboard chunk the size of my panel and played around on the roof till I found where to put it. have room for another later.
StirCrazy 09/24/22 06:37pm Truck Campers
tire time

ok so I am wondering what tires people are buying and having deicent luck with. had my second blow out in 39 years so time to look at tires. I was going to go with the sailune but I don't want to have to buy new rims right now so it will be a standard under 100psi tire. thanks Steve
StirCrazy 09/24/22 06:31pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Mini Split A.C. in their fiver

If you treat your labor as $1/hr, sure, you can rebuild the entire RV to make it work and it will be cheaper. But put a reasonable price on your labor and it's going to be significantly more than simply dropping a new RV unit in it's place. I always get a chuckel at this statment. if your doing it yourself it is to save paying the money out to some one else. you don't pay that money to yourself when you do a job, so you are saving money. when I change the oil in my car I don't go well, at work I make 48 bucks an hour so I better not change this myself and make sure its done right as it will cost me more... it doesnt cost me one red cent more to do it myself, what it does is keep money in my bank account that other wise I would have had to pay out so yes I save money doing stuff myself.
StirCrazy 09/24/22 06:29pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: what size inverter.

my microwave draws 1565 watts. 1500 is not going to cut it for me. wow, is that a comercial restuarant model? I havent seen one rated over 1100 and that being one of the biggest ones, most I see are 900 to 1000. Microwaves have two spec's on "watts". the advertized one, which is usually the OUTPUT power, then on the back plate the actual power draw from the line. The first is commonly in the 1000W range, the second is usually in the 1300-1500 watt range. At least in the U.S. if current draw exceeds around 12A they need to be equipped with a 20A plug rather than the common 15A plug. That pretty much limits them to 1500 or so watts actual power draw. yes, I thought he was talking about the output when I saw that. my 1100 watt one only draws 1200 watts which also had me wondering. Then there is the power draw and VA. Since they are not a resistive device and usually no power factor correction, the current draw (which inveters care about) will usually be higher than derived from assuming a resistive load.
StirCrazy 09/23/22 06:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging on Truck Camper

Solar is quite an investment, especially if you install enough solar to handle charging from heavy battery use. That's assuming you have enough roof real estate. The sun doesn't always shine either. I don't know why people think it is such an investment, and what i heavy battery use? as long as your not trying to run an AC then it is far from an investment, well, maybe if you buy it from a rv dealership and have them install it for about 10X the price if you source and install yourself. for me it was haf the price to put my solar on than to buy a 1000watt honda generator. Heavy battery use is running the battery down to minimum capacity overnight. Something VERY easy to do unless you are judicious about your use of the modern conveniences. Running the furnace all night, for example, instead of putting on an extra blanket. Yeah maybe you can install some solar for 1/2 the cost of a Honda 1000, but you have to be a "solar nerd" able to design your own system right down to the wires, and you know all the secret places to get the components, cheap. Most people want a plug and play system. Charging from the truck on the road costs $0, handles any level of discharge, and doesn't depend on the sun to shine. a different discoussion all togeather, but I camp in my cmper at 0 degrees F quite often, I have two 6V batteries in it, run the furnace all night and part of the day and have one 325 watt panel on it and I never run out of power. granted I have no 120V in it as I dont have an inverter yet, but I am not judicious at all with my power. I was just guessing when I bought my parts and installed them granted I did a lot of reading on solar forums first, but I am not any solar nerd by any means haha. I do agree a dc to dc charger for anything but a normal car battery is a smart investment also though. I can only go three days with out sun right now, soon to be 10 to 12 days. but yes it is nice to have an alternate method of charging even when your solar has never failed to have you back up to 100% before noon except when there was no sun one time.
StirCrazy 09/23/22 06:39pm Truck Campers
RE: what size inverter.

Just got a 3000W inverter for my MH. It’s only to run outlets and maybe the microwave on the road. I only have 2 batteries, but will never pull the full wattage. It when it comes time for batteries I’m thinking 3 100Ah LifePo batteries. ya I am building my own LiFePO4 so using 320AH cells which is great for the amount of capacity available from one battery , but to get a good quality BMS that will handle 3000 watts gets a little pricy. Im already going higher than my last battery by using a 150amp bms. my original plan was to use a 120 and save 30 bucks but I decided when I build a second one they will handle a 3000 watt inverter no problem so for the 5th wheel they will run cool on a 2000 watt inverter. I was also looking at the smaller inverter waist less power while they are on but not being used so there is a efficicency thing I am looking at also.
StirCrazy 09/22/22 08:00am Tech Issues
RE: what size inverter.

my microwave draws 1565 watts. 1500 is not going to cut it for me. wow, is that a comercial restuarant model? I havent seen one rated over 1100 and that being one of the biggest ones, most I see are 900 to 1000.
StirCrazy 09/22/22 07:53am Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging on Truck Camper

Solar is quite an investment, especially if you install enough solar to handle charging from heavy battery use. That's assuming you have enough roof real estate. The sun doesn't always shine either. I don't know why people think it is such an investment, and what i heavy battery use? as long as your not trying to run an AC then it is far from an investment, well, maybe if you buy it from a rv dealership and have them install it for about 10X the price if you source and install yourself. for me it was haf the price to put my solar on than to buy a 1000watt honda generator.
StirCrazy 09/22/22 07:51am Truck Campers
RE: what size inverter.

1800 watts for single hi draw items such as an induction hob. 300 watts for tv, computers, and cell phone charging. you running two inverters PT? I just want one but I want to size it so I cannot draw full current through the BMS on the new battery. its for the camper not the 5th wheel, I have a 2000 watt inverter in the 5th but a 2000 watt inverter can pull 166 amps and I am only using a 150 amp BMS on this one. when I do another then I can handle twice that with two batteries. right now I have no need for AC in the camper aside from charging phones which I can do with DC, but I thought it might be nice to use the electric toaster (700 watts) once and a while and if we decide to keep this old camper instead of upgrading to a newer one then maybe add some other stuff. if I can find a decient 1500 watt pws inverter that will draw 125 amps max for a reasonable price here in canada that might be what I am looking for.
StirCrazy 09/21/22 06:41am Tech Issues
what size inverter.

Ok so building another battery and I am wondering what the smallest size inverter people would run in a camper. I am thinking if I get a 1500 watt inverter and if I decide to put a microwave in at some point then get a smaller 700 watt one. is a 1500 watt inverter proacticle for most normal stuff? the reason I am looking at that siaze is that is about a 125 amp draw so I can go with a 150 amp BMS and not be running flat out. Steve
StirCrazy 09/19/22 07:05pm Tech Issues
RE: looking to upgrade

Seems pricing on both campers is in line if they have been maintained well. yes, and I am not buying for about a year, so I have time to see what the market does and take my time. were just starting to narrow down what we like so when the time comes we know what we want to find.
StirCrazy 09/17/22 10:01am Truck Campers
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