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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

SiO2 share that high capacity and you can arrange them however you like. ahh but thats where the size and weight of the SiO2 become a disadvantage. Steve
StirCrazy 02/25/21 10:16pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

Steve, What would the advantage of six volt SiO2's be? Capacity. 260 AH for them, that always the advantage of a 6v GC battery weather it be SiO2 or lead acid. Li this doesnt realy apply because of the high capacity cell structure and the ability to arange them how ever you like. Steve
StirCrazy 02/24/21 06:42pm Truck Campers
RE: For BFL13 et al... FLA vs AGM vs Li vs heated Li

I realize everyone on here has different electrical req's with how they camp. I don't fulltime and don't camp in the winter and have minimal electrical req's. I dry camp don't watch TV or play on the internet, so basically some lights, refer, WH, and water pump. He kept talking about real world experience and did 20 amp discharge test down running MV's to 8 amp tests and then concluded that LI was cheaper over the life cycle of battery usage. What I would have rather seen was low amp draws "real world" how I use my batteries and how long each battery would last. At $900/ battery for lithium and $90 for 6v flooded that is 10 times the cost. Will the LI's last 10 times longer to recover the initial cost? 900? wow, I just saw them on canadian amazone for 650.00 so probably close to 500 Us. they are droping fast over the last year as more companys come out. at 600 they are only twice the price of a realy good 6V flooded GC battery up here. Steve
StirCrazy 02/23/21 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: For BFL13 et al... FLA vs AGM vs Li vs heated Li

Hi, I got that from one of the sellers pages. Heat and Li don't party well together. Here it is with the source: "To sum up, for long and happy LFP battery life, in order of importance, you should be mindful of the following: Keep the battery temperature under 45 C (113 f) (under 30C if possible (86 f)) – This is by far the most important! Keep charge and discharge currents under 0.5C (0.2C preferred) Keep battery temperature above 0 C (32 f) when discharging if possible – This, and everything below, is nowhere near as important as the first two Do not cycle below 10% – 15% SOC unless you really need to Do not float the battery at 100% SOC if possible Do not charge to 100% SOC if you do not need it" The above are from I would find a different place to read from. to me that sounds liek either they havent got a clue wht there talking about and just going off old info from different types of LI or that there just trying to pad there side against warenty issues. every LiFepo4 cell that I have looked up in the last few days stated 60 or 65C as the max operating temp, which is pretty much the same for SiO2. the charge rate isnt reay an issue as not many people in the rv industry are ever going to hit 1C and even so the manufactures all state 5 to 7C as the max charge rate (but the ceviate is the internal temp of the battery.) if it startes getting to hot you have to slow down the charge, but when people build them they put in 1C bms limitations to be safe. they are floated all the time at 100 percent in power backup roles, but if you are worried about it the BMs sets charg and discharge cutoffs so that should be taken care of by the person who puts the battery togeather so no issues. as for the 10 to 15% thing I wont even go there as it is complete bunk, the life is an average of 4000 cycles at 100% depth of cycles. so if you stay at that 10% as a bottom floor you will probabaly extend it to 6000 cycles, but how long is 4000 cycles. my Lead acid batteries are only 800 cycles and they have lasted me 14 years now as I don't do deep cycles so I extended there life but lets say you camp 15 weekends a year (optomistic for most of canada haha) and you cycle once each weekend thats still 266 years of camping so lets say you do 52 cycles a year , thats still 76 years worth of cycles. lets say its a bad batch of batteries and you only get 2000 cycles now we are down to 38 years... In all likly hood I would only drop down to 14% at anypoing as that is where the voltage drops below 12.5ish. but most of the built batteries are made so there i actualy more capacity than what they are selling, I believe a 100ah battle bourn is actualy an 120 AH build and the BMS is set to limit top and bottom charging and discharges so you end up with a 100% usable advertised capacity with out worring about dammage. they also have temprature compensated charging through the BMS. I am always sceptic when I see a company that assembles batteries (and most probably dont even do that, they get get the manufacture to slap there sticker on them and resell.) put stuff like this on there website. we have a few here that do that also. they know people wont spend the money on average so they make them sound great but finiky at the same time. Steve
StirCrazy 02/23/21 06:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

Steve, SiO2 are slightly lighter than lead acid, and slightly smaller. The 100 amp-hour jar is a Group 27 iirc. ok Im looking at the GC 6V ones and there bigger and heavier. I coulnt fit them in my camper if I tried haha. weird how different classes are different like that. Steve
StirCrazy 02/23/21 06:18pm Truck Campers
RE: DC-DC Charging ?

Is everyone getting one of these things? :) It says to put the unit as close to the house batteries as possible. Makes it tricky for using with a trailer or truck camper and have fat wiring to the truck. Not clear to me, but they want to reduce voltage drop between unit and starter batt, but want the unit closer to the house batts. So longer wires will be from unit to starter batt, but they will need to carry the higher input amps. Maybe putting the unit closer to the starter batt makes more sense? Guess it depends on your set-up and what your voltmeter tells you once you try it out. I have been looking at them for a while. I do not have any 12V power from the truck right now as I dont like the limited capacity of the tiny wire in the 7 way. I am going to put the signal wire (12v hot switch wire) to one of my upfitter switches that is still run off the key. that way if I know it is close to 100% I will leave the switch off and no charging will take place from the DC-DC, just the solar pannels. but I can manualy turn it on and off via the switch but since the switch is key also if I forget to turn it off it wont be a big deal. Steve
StirCrazy 02/22/21 06:55am Tech Issues
RE: For BFL13 et al... FLA vs AGM vs Li vs heated Li

Bend, What about hot weather testing? Damage on LiFePo4 starts at 86 f, and they should not be charged when the temperature is 113 f. where did you get that? all the specs I have read on lfp say 60C for not charging them anymore and the normal operating range for max temp is 40 to 50C. would kinda be usless if you were dammaging them at a little bit above room temp dont you think? Steve
StirCrazy 02/22/21 06:48am Tech Issues
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

You can take a pair of 6s down below 50% without much penalty in number of lifetime cycles, so that would be the first choice IMO. However once that low you can only run low amp draws, not the inverter which will alarm off depending on load and how far down you are in SOC. LFP (and SiO2 within reason) will be happy to go to a low SOC and still keep the voltage up to allow the inverter to operate. The real problem is recharging the batts of whatever type when they need it if you only have solar and it is overcast. We have no room for a portable gen in our TC, so that leaves running the truck. Low amp long time recharge not so good. LFPs are not going to change that. You could still be sitting there with the batts out of AH and no sunshine. You might get an extra overcast day out of it with LFP, but then what? If you have a portable gen, you could have used it two days ago with your pair of 6s. Seems the LFP option would make sense given the right scenario though. yup, I totaly agree, unless you have the ability to assemble your own LFP batteries, in that case you can make a 280 Usable AH battery that is 1/3rd the weight and less than 1/2 the size of thoes 6V batteries, with almost 3 times the usable AH, which even with out solare would give some one a extended outting. they allso will run an inverter right down to the bitter end with out it alarming depending on how the battery is set up. if your using every last AH, then they would go to about 10% before the inverter starts alarming. in the truck camper would where we are all about weight, size and capacity, I dont see a better battery. Led acid if you are going for maximum life you can only use 50%, Sio2 are heavier and bigger than lead acid (just a bit) and let you use 80% of the capacity with out shortening the life. but LFP are lighter, smaller and give you 100% of the capacity for 4000ish cycles and more if you only use 80%. Steve
StirCrazy 02/22/21 06:41am Truck Campers
RE: DC-DC Charging ?

That's an idea. I will see how many amps I get and check voltages before thinking of using different wiring instead of the 7-pin's. I wonder if the "ignition" wire has to be at the same voltage as the input. Using any old 12v to turn the unit on would work, but would it confuse its little brain if it was a different voltage? I can jumper the pos input and ignition terminals and put the switch in the jumper wire I think. any switched 12V supply will work. and no it wont put the batteries in parralel, it is a one way charger that only turnes on when the truck is running if you hook that triger wire to a ignition switched source. I wouldnt put it through a fuse block if you dont have to I would just run a nice cable off the batterys to the charger. I see you are mounting it in the camper? is there a reason for this? I am going to put one in my truck but was thinking of mounting it in the engine bay so I can take advantage of it for both the camper and the 5th wheel. Steve
StirCrazy 02/21/21 06:47am Tech Issues
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

Steve, I want my RV to behave as if it were plugged into a 15 amp shore power outlet. That takes a large battery bank, and a way to recharge. Each to their own! We all love camping. dont forget we are in the truck camper forum right now, no such thing as a large battery bank unless you use LFP. this is what started my whole lookng at LFP in the first plce. with two big 6V GC batteries which I had to put in my storage commpartment as they wouldnt fit in the battery compartment (Yes I have an older camper) I can only muster 105AH of usable capacity. I do have a 325 watt pannel on it with room for another and a 40 amp Mppt controler, so getting sun it isnt bad at all, kept it at 100 every day, but as I found out last fall at around freezing at night when I am running the furnace after two days of no sun and or a shady campsite, I was down to about 60% which means I used 80 of my 105 availble AH. the only way for me to get a big bank would be to build two 280AH LFP batteries an put them in the same space, but I think if I just build one that will be good and I can get my storage space back. Steve
StirCrazy 02/21/21 06:35am Truck Campers
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

we dont have LSD in canada only ULSD. they totaly switched when the mandate came in. Steve To be overly pedantic, isn't all ULSD also LSD by definition? Less than 15 ppm sulfur is also less than 500 ppm sulphur.... we switched from regular diesel to LSD in 2007, then we switched to ULSD in 2010. its possible some stations never changed the stickers , or that it was a Petro Canada gas station that still calls ULSD LSD on there web page, even though there is only ULSD in Canada. the point is for the original poster is don't worry you are only going to get ULSD in Canada no matter what the pump says. Steve
StirCrazy 02/20/21 10:14am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

Here is some honest advertising by Relion LFP "More Usable Capacity 25-50% more capacity than lead-acid equivalent" The OP wants to camp off grid in a TC for a few days where he runs a few things but not the furnace or bigger inverter loads, so he seems to think one 100AH battery will be enough as long as he has enough solar to keep up. With furnace and the usual things, it takes one battery per day. He could do his loads with two FLAs and "enough" solar. He is hoping the one LFP will do it, being like 1 and 1/2 batts, which it might with no furnace time. The money side of things is obvious and up to the OP for what is "worth it" . EDIT--"enough solar" is the same for either battery bank size. IMO he will need 200w or more and 100w is not enough. On my budget, YMMV, I would get more solar with the money I saved from getting FLA instead of LFP. But I am not the OP! I do most of my camping in the warm weather months here in Colorado off grid. The furnace has run twice in my Lance 650. I have used a space heater that works more than sufficient in 20 degrees hooked to 30 Amp. The lead acid battery dies after about 2 days with the 100 watt solar panel. I'm probably not the best steward of making sure the battery amperage and usage stays moderated. Maybe it's just marketing. I have read that lithium batteries charge faster than lead acid. I also know you can take the lithium batteries down below 50% capacity. I thought maybe someone was using a 100 watt solar panel and 100 Ah Lithium battery and knew how long/much it would run before needing to run a generator if at all. you will get motr time out of the LFP, about double and a 100 amp solar will extend that a bit, but if you assume 4 hours of full charging and a bit of fringe you might get 4 days because of the extra amp from the solar. if you could I would look more at getting a bigger solar pannel and the LFP. the price of pannels are cheep now. grab a 325 watt pannel. I have 100 usable ah of lead acid in my camper with a 325 watt pannel and as long as I dont go two days in a row with out sun I can stay out for a long time using the furnace when the temps are right around freezing. two days of no sun and I still have some left but I am getting concerned. if you had two 100AH Lfp batteries and 325 or more watts of solar you would be set up pretty good. for me to do that with deep cycles it would weight 280 lbs and be the size of 4 gc batteries which I cant fit, but one could be had that would weigh about 48lbs and take up the space of one GC battery. realy it doesnt matter what kind of batteries you use if your not running microwaves and such, just shoot for a min of 100 usabe AH and better yet if you can get to 200 usable AH you will be golden with a deicent solar pannel. Steve
StirCrazy 02/20/21 09:49am Truck Campers
RE: The Emotions in a TC

Im probably the opposit, I have a 40 foot 5th wheel that I take all over the place , boondock, campground etc. but I did buy an older camper as a secondary unit. there are some places we like to go with friends that are old loging roads with just hole in the bush sites that I could get the 5th up there but only 2 out of the 30 sites are big enough so its a gamble. with the camper thats not a worry. but the main reason we got it was for when I go back to the island to visit, the 5th wheel costs about 750.00 return for the ferry, where the camper costs me about 200.00 (12 bucks more than a car) aand I use it if it is just me and the dog, depending where I am going. but for all our family trips its all the 5th wheel. more space for bad days, more room for the dog, more storage for food, way bigger fridge, a real shower in the bathroom, a radio lol, thats my next project to add to the camper . Steve
StirCrazy 02/20/21 09:37am Truck Campers
RE: Why is 5th wheel standard vs Gooseneck?

Why is a gooseneck harder on the trailer frame than a 5er? Is it because the length of the neck down to the ball is longer than a 5er? We are thinking of going from a TT to a 5er, and just trying to learn. It isn't with a modern gooseneck adaptor like a Reese Goose Box. it would have to be to maintin the trailer high while mounting in the ball in the floor of the bed. your mising the whole hight of the 5th wheel hitch it has to make up for. Steve
StirCrazy 02/20/21 09:20am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Travelling from Nevada to Alaska in the Middle of Winter

Thank you all! We made it to Liard Lodge safely last night. Today we trek to Whitehorse. I have a question. Yesterday I was getting fuel at an ESSO station and realized I pumped 5 gal of LSD into my truck before I stopped it. I had about a half a tank already in the truck before accidently adding the the LSD and ended up going to another station that offered ULSD to finish filling it up. Will this LSD hurt anything? It seems that most places in the ALCAN offer only LSD, unless you're in a well established town/city. You guys are gettin right along! Good to hear! I'm about 99.5% certain that you were pumping ULSD and not LSD. Canada has had the same regs for fuel basically as the US, since 2006 or 2008, whenever the switch was made. My guess is old pump stickers on the pumps out there in the boonies. we dont have LSD in canada only ULSD. they totaly switched when the mandate came in. Steve
StirCrazy 02/19/21 09:27am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Drilling holes in trailer roof to install solar: worth it?

do you get any charging driving to the next campground that way? SteveAll sources combine. Alternator, converter, and charge controller for panels. While driving a charge would be coming from the alternator and the solar panels. While parked and plugged into shore power or running the generator the solar panels would add additional charge. you got to have more pannels on the roof then tht we cant see and thoes folded down ones are just extras.. Steve
StirCrazy 02/19/21 09:24am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: New F350 owner seeks TC information

Any pointers on were to focus my inspection and bargaining tips would be greatly appreciated. Best, F350 look for soft spots and staining on the cealing along the edges and in the cubbords, same for floors and around windows. anywhere there is a vent take a look at the celing around it. Steve
StirCrazy 02/19/21 09:15am Truck Campers
RE: Solar with Lithium Battery

You will get more usable AH but not twice as many. From a 100AH batt you will get 80 instead of 50 by following the guidelines for each type. (20-100 vs 50-100) I thought you learned from the other conversation battleborn advertises 100ah of usable energy as do most of them. so in that case he will get 100 usable ah Steve
StirCrazy 02/19/21 09:08am Truck Campers
RE: Patching Coroplast

And the winner ties! They closed it up nicely and I didn't have to bother with cleaning off the old adhesive first! Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions. what did you use to seal up the crack so water doesnt get in? Steve
StirCrazy 02/18/21 07:26am General RVing Issues
RE: New F350 owner seeks TC information

These are all excellent points. I am considering brand new Northstars. Also, in terms of blocks to get the camper high enough, I was looking at these : Camco FasTen 2x2 RV Leveling Block For Single Tir... I was thinking that I could also use them in the parking lot at work for the truck tire level as well. In the meantime I cannot buy anything until the correct torklift tie down arrives in the mail and I install them. dont waist money on thoes for loading and unloading they wont hold up to the weight of camper jacks on them. just figure out how much more hight you need then either use a cinder block with wood on top or just build good heavy duty wood blocks out of scrap 2x4's Steve Right. I don’t think OP plans to unload in the hospital parking lot? Use the cinder blocks at home. We seldom unload when using the TC, pretty much unload only at home. wasnt taking about takeing it off when camping. If the jacks on the camper are hydraulic they shouldn;t be used for anything but loading and unloading. so thats the only place I use cinder blocks. to level the camper you should level the truck, for that thoes bloces will work, but I wouldnt put them under any jack with out a chunk of 2X wood the same size to spread the weight out. seen a bunch of small jack feet blast right through them. Steve
StirCrazy 02/17/21 06:19pm Truck Campers
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