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 > Your search for posts made by 'Straylight' found 23 matches.

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RE: Can't figure out Atwood furnace no ignition

I cleaned the burner orifice last time I was diagnosing: Took off the L-shaped connector between the valve and chamber, removed the pinhole orifice, soaked in alcohol, did some scrubbing with a few strands of stranded copper wire.
Straylight 10/24/18 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Can't figure out Atwood furnace no ignition

Double posting just to say: Ugh what a pain in the butt it is to have to take the whole **** thing apart so many times
Straylight 10/24/18 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Can't figure out Atwood furnace no ignition

Alrighty, did some more work, no joy so far: Removed burner/valve/etc. assembly and observed spark electrode. In shaded daylight, couldn't see spark when I heard spark click. Separated electrode tips until they were about 3/16" apart. Thereafter observed strong blue spark at the very tip of the electrodes.Checked voltage at end of wire that goes to propane valve, used nearby screw for ground. Observed ~10.9 volts. OK? Checked continuity of each coil; multimeter read 41 on both coils in continuity mode. Reconnected propane, turned on propane at tank (I only have one tank), ran stove and turned on fridge with no issues and with strong flow. Turned thermostat to 90, turned on heat, still trying to ignite and not igniting (repeated sparking for a few seconds, then nothing, then two more tries before hitting lockout). Cycled through to lockout 4 times and no change. The spark really did look better after I separated the prongs a bit (being careful not to bend the ceramic one, just the other one). I thought that might have been it, so I put it back together a little prematurely. I might go back in to vacuum out the pipes and check the combustion chamber again, but nothing looked amiss. Will also re-check the propane hole.
Straylight 10/24/18 05:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Can't figure out Atwood furnace no ignition

While it is clicking check to see if there is voltage from circuit board to the gas valve. Another is to verify that the two coils on the gas valve have continuity. OK, so checking voltage across the closest coil's positive and ground wires, for the first thing, and then continuity across the positive of one coil to the ground of the other? Your burner is either dirty or the spark electrode is not adjusted to spark between the burner and the electrode. Odds are the electrode is sparking to the top of the combustion chamber which will not ignite the LP. Doug PS, from what you have done, you are qualified to be a Mobile RV tech How do I adjust the spark electrode? The gap at the tip was 1/8" last I checked, which seems to be to spec? And thanks, I went to the University of I Own a Late-Nineties RV and I'm Kinda Broke. You'd be surprised how much you learn there! try taking off the high voltage lead off where the burner is and placing it close to the metal frame and see if it sparks when it tries to light or not. Had mine do the same last week we had it out, it was a bad Neon (NE2) lamp near the High voltage coil fixed it … Yikes, that seems a little spooky to test out. Would I hear the spark electrode clicking during ignition (as I do) if it wasn't sparking?
Straylight 10/24/18 02:31pm Tech Issues
Can't figure out Atwood furnace no ignition

Make and model: Atwood Hydroflame 8525-IV Complaint: Furnace clicks but fails to ignite, then goes into lockout mode after three attempts. Control board has green light, turns to red during ignition attempt and then back to green after failure, then no light when in lockout. Parts cannon so far: New control board (Dinosaur) New ignitor/flame sensor unit (OEM, with new high-voltage cable) New propane regulator Interventions/checks so far: Battery voltage at ~12.7v, and furnace will not light on shore or generator power either. Removed and probed sail switch and found continuity between contacts when sail was depressed by hand (multimeter in continuity mode gave steady beep). Brushed sail switch contacts with wire brush and pencil eraser and reinstalled. No change. Blew out propane line with compressed air, propane tank is full, water heater is currently running on propane and stove has been used repeatedly; note that problem still occurs if water heater is off. Fridge is also running on propane without a hitch. I smell slight propane smell at furnace exhaust when it tries to ignite. Removed and cleaned burner chamber thing; minor rust and deterioration. Any ideas as to what to check next?
Straylight 10/24/18 01:26pm Tech Issues
RE: E15 gasoline incoming...

You're absolutely right. I mixed up Grassley with Graham.
Straylight 10/12/18 08:16am Tech Issues
RE: V10 flute sound from throttle body area

When I needed to find my exhaust leak, I used a three-foot piece of flexible rubber hose. An actual mechanic's stethoscope would be super useful, but you might already have something around that'll do the trick!
Straylight 10/10/18 06:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Do your own experiment removing alcohol

I've got another experiment designed around the same hypothesis; my experiment goes like "drive to the Liberty station that sells 100% gasoline" :W As far as uses for the effluent...all I'm saying is that Stolichnaya makes a pretty penny selling water mixed with ethanol...
Straylight 10/10/18 05:16pm Tech Issues
RE: E15 gasoline incoming...

I'm not sure about PURELY political---while ethanol gas has well-documented drawbacks in re: maintenance of small engines and health of old engines, it also has well-documented benefits in re: oxygenation and octane boost without MTBE, and on top of that, a valid and apolitical argument can be made that allowing a renewable resource to shoulder 10% of the demand for gasoline is a decent idea. That being said, the EXTENT of certain policies is certainly political. Ted Cruz doesn't give a **** about the health of your engine, and Lindsey Graham doesn't give a **** about lowering MTBE levels; when they lobby the President to side with gasoline (Ted) or ethanol (Lindsey), they are entirely concerned with protecting the moneybag industries in their respective states (Texas and Iowa).
Straylight 10/10/18 03:02pm Tech Issues
RE: E15 gasoline incoming...

Yep, the numbers definitely indicate that the US is extremely close to being energy independent. We get the enormous majority of our oil domestically and from Canada. A quick glance shows that we only import about 25% of our oil, and only about 10% of those imports come from Saudi Arabia; Saudi Arabia isn't the entirety of OPEC, but I can't imagine the OPEC numbers accounting for anything more than 5% of our total oil supply. On top of that (and I'm sure Zeihan covers it), shale oil production in the US is limited only by demand. Entire shale oil operations shut down or start up with oil price fluctuations; the only barrier to more US oil production is whether it's profitable for the companies to turn the lights on that month.
Straylight 10/10/18 11:07am Tech Issues
RE: E15 gasoline incoming...

Back when I worked as a corporate editor instead of a dirtbag poet, I worked on the transcript from this woman's talk. Here's a blog that hits the high points: Her basic argument is that gasoline enjoys a monopoly and does not act like other commodities because people HAVE TO buy it to run their cars. She suggests pushing to (1) adapt current engines so they can take methanol (if I recall, she cited a $500 upfront cost to the owner, and suggested a govt tax benefit therefrom?) and (2) adapt gas stations so they can sell methanol (by making it economically viable for them to spend the money). She argues that these steps will allow consumers to choose between whichever fuel is cheaper right at the pump, which will in turn drive the cost of gasoline down because it will ACTUALLY have to compete with another fuel. Worth adding to the conversation.
Straylight 10/10/18 08:09am Tech Issues
RE: 1993 Onan 4000 generator

Post model and serial number. The Cummins guys charge a high but upfront and fair price. A control board is an expensive part, diagnosing a problem will take at LEAST an hour of time at 150/hr, and installing a part will similarly take a few hours. If it is the control board, you can buy your own and swap it out quite easily, but the part will be expensive still. It could be several other things. The oil sensors are known to fail (and were removed from subsequent designs for that reason). Could be your carburetor. Could be fuel pump. Post model and serial number, and give more details about when this problem started and what it does as it does.
Straylight 09/15/18 11:37am Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel questions again

Meaningful runtimes of microwave and air conditioning off solar/battery is a pipe dream for a first time solar installer with a budget of only $700 (with which to buy panels, inverter, wiring, controller, mounting solution, and more). Most deep cycle batteries don't appreciate the kind of enormous, fast power a microwave wants, too; the whole thing is kind of dicey. Your friend can make a decent system off $700, but the system will be useful for keeping the deep-cycle batteries charged and using moderate amounts of low-wattage electricity during the day. Many, many people, even those with larger budgets, use the 12v system (the batteries and the panels) for almost everything during the day, and then turn on the 120v system (generator or shore power) when they need the microwave, electric water heater, air conditioning, or coffee maker. Slap some decent panels up. They're easy to wire. And then see about a remote start for the generator!
Straylight 08/25/18 01:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Why Won't My 1000W Inverter Run my 800W Coffee Maker?

Could be that you have a phantom draw (maybe your fridge?), could be that your coffee maker is higher wattage than you have been led to believe (especially during startup), but it also could be this thing I used to hear but now can find no evidence for: That some inverters and inverter generators really don't like appliances that generate heat in the same way a toaster or electric heater does. Something about the inverter seeing it as a short? Don't quote me on it.
Straylight 08/23/18 06:48pm Tech Issues
Check my work re: Fuel pump failure?

Hey guys! It's been a banner trip across the country this week. I'm currently at a repair shop in Cheyenne, WY, waiting on fuel pump replacement to commence tomorrow morning. I'm pretty sure I've got a failing fuel pump, but I'd love a second opinion. Specs: 1999 Chevy Express 3500, 7.4L Vortec V8 engine. Fleetwood Jamboree 22C built on the cutaway chassis. 65k miles on the clock, but not well maintained by POs. Recent Work: New battery, new starter, freshly polished main ground (had starting issues earlier in the week, slow crank no start; I went through a battery and starter before I thought to have the mechanic check the main ground). This was during the current trip. Had a no crank no start, before trip; mechanic found broken wires and soldered them. I believe the prior (bad and dishonest) mechanic replaced the ignition coil, the distributor cap, and MAYBE the crankshaft position sensor before he decided to stop hanging parts on it and take it to a better mechanic (who found the wires). Recent Symptoms: Rig ran great other than the slow crank, and after we fixed the main ground it started right up and again ran great. This trip has been 1500+ miles in a few days, mostly on cruise control around 62 mph. I noticed a slow start sometime after we fixed the slow crank; that is, cranking quickly and nicely, but not firing for a while. I stopped at a gas station, filled up 8 gallons, went to start, and it just cranked. It seemed like a fuel delivery problem. I had an auto parts store bring me a new relay and fuel filter, popped both in, got it to start but it was still sluggish to do so. I had been noticing the cruise control would hiccup every once in a while, almost as if I had cycled it off and on for a second. Maybe twice in 1000 miles. This began to happen with more frequency after the gas station and the relay/filter replacement. It started to get pretty frequent (three times in 100 miles). Eventually, I stopped for the night and decided to have it looked at in the morning. It continued to start slower than I'd like. On my way to the first shop (they said I was too tall to fit on their lift) I did not use cruise control, but I lost engine power five times in 3 miles, just like I had taken my foot off the accelerator. Electronics were fine, no CEL, didn't need to pull over and restart; just had times when it slowed down and nothing I did would give it more power, and after a few seconds it would surge forward and be fine. Engine has been running a little tougher and jumpier than normal, which is to say that it's never rough and jumpy but it has been since the gas station incident. My oil pressure gauge has been reading higher than normal since I stopped for the night and then drove it to my two shops. My temperature has been fine. My fuel gauge has been broken for about three weeks, stuck on empty. I do not have a CEL and have not had one for the duration of these symptoms. I have stabilized every drop of gasoline on this trip with StaBil, 1 oz per 5 gal, per the recommendation in my thread about my generator. It also got a half can of SeaFoam at the start of the trip. I have used one can of GumOut mid trip, before these symptoms, hoping to remove what I thought might be varnish on the part of the fuel pump that senses fuel level. Oil change is recent, fewer than 3000 miles, with a NAPA Gold filter and full synthetic oil. Newest fuel filter is a Wix. My Take: The fuel gauge failure, lovely crank but sluggish start (if it starts at all), rough running, and intermittent engine power loss with increasing frequency all point to a progressive failure of the combined fuel pump/sending unit. I suspect that the oil pressure has increased because the engine has been working extra hard in the absence of steady fuel supply. It seems as if some of these symptoms could come from a bad crankshaft position sensor, and I also recognize that I might have a blind spot regarding another cause. Any thoughts?
Straylight 08/09/18 07:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Need solar help!

Your 12v systems generally run fine down to just under 11 volts. Your fridge, depending on the make and model, should even be able to run its control board down to 10 volts or so.
Straylight 07/30/18 07:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Questions about a fuel solenoid for an Onan 7000.

Sounds like you're on the right track; if the genny ran for three hours, the fuel pump could well be fine, and you might try slappin' that new solenoid in there right away. However, if the solenoid is attached to the fuel pump or otherwise situated such that it makes sense to do both at once AND you're fine with a non-functional genny for a bit, by all means wait for the pump and godspeed :)
Straylight 07/25/18 01:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Questions about a fuel solenoid for an Onan 7000.

Gotcha--no idea about OEM spec or failure rate for that particular solenoid, personally. Do you mind if we ask what symptoms you're seeing? A no-crank no-start is different from a cranking no-start, for example; the former doesn't immediately suggest a fuel delivery problem, the latter does suggest a fuel delivery problem.
Straylight 07/25/18 11:26am Tech Issues
RE: Questions about a fuel solenoid for an Onan 7000.

If the part you pulled was identical to the part an official Cummins dealer shipped you, it's probably the right part. Have you installed it to see if it fixes the problem?
Straylight 07/25/18 09:54am Tech Issues
RE: Whatsa Quiet Water Pump?

+1 to most of the comments here. Flexible hose on the outlet, rubber fittings and other mounting insulation, and an accumulator before you replace the pump itself. If that doesn't work, all of the things you added to the old pump will also serve to make the new pump as quiet as possible. It may be that DW demands a pump replacement regardless of the improvement you see (well, hear) from the other interventions. In that case, you will have ventured into the hinterlands, where our knowledge cannot help you, and your only hope is for a straight road and a merciful god
Straylight 07/24/18 11:44am Tech Issues
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