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 > Your search for posts made by 'TakingThe5th' found 14 matches.

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RE: Forum errors...

Until I can get a hold of the right people, when the message comes up just hit your F5 if you’re on a Windows computer Not sure what it is on an apple, it’s something plus the R key Command+R to refresh the page. I am no longer receiving emails from any my forums. Is this a server problem as well?
TakingThe5th 05/17/19 04:32pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Can I tow with this?

Only as far as the next gas station. Don't pass go or you'll go no more,
TakingThe5th 03/16/19 05:38pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Downsizing, sort of?

No worries there on the equity, i have about 15,000$ Positive equity. While this won’t pay for the entire used truck will certainly pay for half. Then will just pay cash for remainder. To dig out of my car loan mess - I kept my car and kept my cash. Since I had essentially already paid most of the interest on the loan, I also kept the loan. When I finally paid off the loan I continued to pay myself by saving that monthly payment (I used payroll deduction at the time). When it was time for the next car/truck I had the cash I needed - no loan. I bought the new vehicle and continued to save a monthly payment for myself. After we retired, the DW was in an accident which totaled the car. The insurance payment was fair but to get back into the car market we needed additional cash, which we already had because we had been saving for it. Using this method, vehicles have been much cheaper because the bank was not involved. The lesson for me was - always use your own money, then you will automatically have more. Spend tomorrow's money today, then what will you be able to spend tomorrow? The magic for me was not in trading vehicles, the magic is in cash management. Start small and grow big. Good luck.
TakingThe5th 03/11/19 07:25am Tow Vehicles
RE: Downsizing, sort of?

You might want to take a look at your loan to see if it uses a calculation method called "the Rule of 78" or "Sum of the digits" to compute your interest charges. If this method is used then it means that you may not have the equity you expected in your truck. If this method or other similar methods were used it means you have already paid much of the loan's total interest charge and consequently very little equity, by comparison, was accumulated. Laws in your area might not allow the use of these methods but it would be worth it to check it out before proceeding with your downsizing plans. I have not had an auto/truck loan since I discovered that these methods were being used to help lenders earn their interest early in the life of the loan.
TakingThe5th 03/10/19 08:16pm Tow Vehicles
RE: E450 trans oil change?

The manual for my '06 F350 states to change the transmission oil at 30000 miles, along with the inline filter. I change it sooner 'cause the truck is used for towing mostly and west of me is the rocky mountains. My '05 F350 6.0 also calls for a 30,000 trans oil change interval.
TakingThe5th 03/03/19 11:58am Tech Issues
RE: Brakes AGAIN !

Have you checked the parking brake for a sticking cable? I'm not the OP, but I've checked the parking brake on my truck and it's OK, but this has also happened with the front calipers. I've also had this problem since the truck was new and all of those calipers have seized and been replaced so I haven't seen where it is a remanufacturing problem. But it does make me wonder if there was a supplier who made a bad caliper since some have the problem and some people don't.
TakingThe5th 03/03/19 11:42am Tow Vehicles
RE: Brakes AGAIN !

And if a person, especially living in the salt belt, does not adequate lube the slides, that is the second most likely cause IMO. No "light grease rubs" into the pores of the steel. First, it sounds dirty or you're having too much fun rubbing your pins... Anti seize that stuff and be done with it. Glad you enjoyed my "grease rub" comment. What I meant to say was I used the smallest amount of "grease" to moisten the metal without the danger of getting it on the pads or rotor. To do that I have used my bottle of brake caliper lube, or those little packets that they sometimes throw in, or anti-seize - I've tried them all. I've considered the salt issue. I clean my brakes every year, only because of this problem, and I see no salt-related issues. I've heard some people talk about concern over the "beet juice" that they spread on the roads here - some say it is more corrosive then salt but, again, I'm not seeing it in my brakes and my truck is still almost rust-free. And my other vehicles are having no problems like this. I too have been exercising the ABS system as well as I can to purge out old fluid but I've also heard that having a computer program that can open the valves in the ABS would be a nice way to flush it out completely, But since I have been having this problem since the truck was nearly new I wonder if the ABS unit has been defective rather then worn out or old but haven't found anything on the internet that would support that thought. If you are wondering why I didn't take the truck in under warranty for the ABS unit - this problem wasn't that obvious until after the warranty expired. I hadn't put many miles on it and I thought the problems were related to lack of use.
TakingThe5th 02/26/19 09:16am Tow Vehicles
RE: Brakes AGAIN !

Are you folks making sure the caliper pins are free and lubed. That was a pesky item on my ole 7.3 psd. Yes, pins are lubed and everything that moves is moving well. I sand any rust off moving surfaces and "moisten" them with a very light "grease rub" into the pores of the metal. I do this every year. You didn't mention the year of your 7.3, but my niece has a 2002 7.3 and has had no problems with brakes.
TakingThe5th 02/24/19 04:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Brakes AGAIN !

I'm having the same problem and it's always just one wheel, not multiple wheels and not a total lockup. Twice the caliper got really hot while I was going down the highway at speed, hitting the brakes rather lightly only to exit to a rest area. The other times were during solo driving with no heavy demands on the brakes. My suspicion now is that the brakes are dragging not as a result of normal use. In other words, I began to suspect that the ABS unit was somehow involved, reasoning that if I'm not riding the brake, then the only other normal way that brakes would be applied is through the ABS system. I too had also heard that the brake hoses could be the culprit and mine are original. But recently I just had the ABS sensor throw a code that it was bad and have replaced it. So far so good but it's too early to tell. But I am still planning to replace the hoses and maybe the lines with stainless braided before the season begins but I'm trying to first satisfy my curiosity on if it was the ABS sensor on the pumpkin.
TakingThe5th 02/24/19 04:05pm Tow Vehicles
RE: help newbie with charging house/solar battery

hi, trying to learn about keeping my house/solar battery in good condition. My parts. -3 renolgy 100w eclipse panels, -renolgy 40amp commander controller, lifeline 255ah batt , renolgy MT50 digital controller. My first winter with my solar system(ford e250)sitting a little stagnant in my garage. I do drive it just enough in the winter to keep the battery up but lately its gotten down to 12.5v so I stuck my 4 amp battery charger on it. In about an hour the MT50 registered 14.1v but the Battery icon on the MT50 showed the battery about 2/3 full and seemed to just stop increasing. After 2 hours the MT50 still registered 14.1, the battery icon was still at 2/3+ full.(battery charger had floated down to 2.25amps) Not trusting that I know what I am doing,so before bed I just unplugged the charger and figured I would start over in the morning. This morning the battery was down to 12.5v again, stuck the charger on and its on its way back up to were it was last night. seems as though I just need to leave the charger on for a longer time, My this scenario normal? What should I do, thanks. I'm not a solar expert but I have Battery Minders on all my "stuff" in the garage - riding mower, tractor, diesel truck, etc. The Battery Minder will condition all my wet-cell batteries and will not overcharge, even when left on for extended periods of time. Under those circumstances I don't worry about voltage, I just make sure the water levels are good. Hope that helps.
TakingThe5th 02/21/19 07:35am Tech Issues
RE: Tire Pressure Monitoring

Yeah well the physics are: P1V1/T1 = P2V2/T2 where P=pressure, V=Volume and T-Temp in degrees Kelvin Since V1=V2 you can drop that from the equation (yes volume may change slightly but we can ignore that) and P2 is twice P1 then the temp in degrees K would have to double. Like from 270 deg K to 540 deg K and that obviously is not happening. That would be a 270 deg Celsius temp jump since our tires are not running at over 500 deg F. That's what physics says. Good info. I once pulled into a rest stop and saw smoke rolling out of the left front tire. Turns out I had a caliper that was dragging for some longer period of time - and things were pretty toasty. My laser temp gun would not measure that caliper because it's limit was 1,000 degrees. I didn't think this scenario was even possible so I checked and double checked, but I can say it was still smoking when we finished our business at the rest stop. So we had lunch. My point is that I could believe that in rare circumstances temps can easily go over 500 degrees. But if that can happen then I wonder why my tire didn't blow. And no, I did not try measuring the tire temp ... Just saying ...
TakingThe5th 02/21/19 06:55am Tech Issues
RE: Tire Pressure Monitoring

So if we are in favor of a TPMS, what are the best ones to look at? Looking at this thread I see the TST 507 being shown as the frontrunner. Any others? And what type of wheel sensor works best?
TakingThe5th 02/18/19 04:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Tire Pressure Monitoring

My TST 507 is great. It does not include the psychic ability feature that can predict a blow out. If you have tread separation and the tire does not deflate it can not tell you that either. A rapid loss of air pressure or high heat, it reports well. When we came home and parked we discovered that we had a problem. Tires looked absolutely fine, no pressure loss. But neither of the X-chocks would fit on one side which was very strange since they were pre-adjusted and interchangeable. I looked everywhere for a problem but could not find anything. Took it to a frame shop and they replaced some spring bushings but knew they hadn't found the problem until they measured the diameter of the tires. Two tires on the street side were larger in diameter then the other two on the curb side. But the tires looked fine to them too. I took the rig to my favorite tire shop and the problem became obvious only when the tires were dismounted. Iit took no special skills or tools to see that two of the four tires had lost their integrity. Those tires probably hit something, got damaged, and were ready to blow. Lucky me! And I'm careful with my tires - don't roll over curbs or cut corners and I try to avoid potholes. So how can I realistically expect a TPMS system to detect something that myself and several experts cannot readily detect. No, I don't have a TPMS system, not yet anyway, but it sounds like a good tool to have onboard. Although tire pressure was never an issue, It might have discovered some excess heat being generated.
TakingThe5th 02/18/19 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: F-250 Brake Issue

Ask your mechanic if the ABS system might be involved. Perhaps you have a bad sensor. Rare, but possible. If the calipers and hoses are indeed OK, this might be worth exploring. Also I would assume that new pads were installed with the calipers. I say this because I once had an oil-contaminated pad stick as you explained. Good luck.
TakingThe5th 01/24/19 06:41pm Tow Vehicles
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