| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
Supplemental Braking Systems
What are folks using with their Class C?
I used an Air Force One system on my previous Class A diesel pusher, but I'm guessing that won't transfer to a C.
|
TechWriter
|
07/20/21 12:51am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Connecting Winegard Traveler to Dish Hopper
I’m not clear on how to connect the DPH42 to the dish. The RV Tech who installed my Winegard system has always done great work with attention to detail. He ran one of the lines from the dish to the Winegard box, the second line plugs into the Dish receiver, and the third line is unused. Your wiring diagrams never indicate how the Winegard box is wired, or maybe they do and I’m just not seeing it.
On the base of a Winegard Travler, there are several connectors like so:
https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/winegard_travler_install_graphic2.jpg
A, B, and C in the photo above get connected to the DPH42 switch.
The Interface Box cable connects to the Winegard control box.
Since some DISH receivers (like a Wally or 211) only need one coax connection, that's all that was run on your RV.
However, Hopper 3's require different connections.
|
TechWriter
|
07/06/21 11:05pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Connecting Winegard Traveler to Dish Hopper
A couple of assumptions on my part . . .
You're using a Hopper 3. Your Tiffin control box in connected to the ANTENNA IN of your TVs.
If that's that case, you could probably still use your Tiffin control box for OTA TV and park cable, but I don't recommend using it for HD TV.
Here's what I did . . .
https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2021/07/2001-madp-new-av-setup_hopper_one_hopper3_07_06_2021.jpg height=542 width=866
A couple of notes . . .
- I used a Channel Plus Video Amp. You could probably still use your Tiffin box.
- I used hard wired Joey 2s. You could also use wireless Joeys, or wireless HDMI. However, I do NOT recommend a RF modulator unless you want crummy looking TV.
- If your Winegard Traveler is newer (2018+), you can install a DPH LNBF on it. Then you can run a single wire from the Winegard instead of three. Plus, you won't need the DPH42 switch.
|
TechWriter
|
07/06/21 07:31pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
Unusual Class C
Found this on the San Mateo, CA Craig's List as I searched for used Class Cs . . .
Snow Cabin Telstar 27'
I'm thinking that the wood burning stove might be an issue.
|
TechWriter
|
07/01/21 01:11am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Considering move from class A to C
If you read THE CLICKY it pretty much spells it out.:S
I wasn't going to reply, but your emoji clinched it for me. I'm not going to wade through a 23-page thread started in 2011.
A summary would have been nice, especially from someone as knowledgeable as yourself.
|
TechWriter
|
06/30/21 10:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Considering move from class A to C
That is a NICE rig you linked to ( 2002 32' Country Coach ). It looks to be in great shape for a 2002. Even so, I would say the price looks high, but I also realize that this is a seller's market, not a buyer's market.
I've been checking out used CC's for about 10 years and 32-footers are VERY rare. So $99k isn't unreasonable, especially in this market.
So what is your budget for your next rig?
$30k
Maybe you could sell your current rig now and then next year when RV prices plummet (a prediction I just made using my crystal ball! LOL) you might be able to pick something along the lines of that Country Coach for a better price.
Already sold my 2001 Newmar for a good price. Yes, I plan to buy next year.
|
TechWriter
|
06/30/21 10:14pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Considering move from class A to C
Thanks for all the advice folks.
At first, I found that getting accurate info (ie, floor plans, length, wheelbase, etc) on Class Cs was a bit challenging. For example, Class C ads frequently listed incorrect info so I turned to manufacturer brochures whenever possible. However, some floor plans weren't listed in the brochures. I found that PPL Motorhomes usually had the correct floor plan as they draw their own for each RV they sell.
FYI . . . I started with a 34' Class A gasser (National SeaBreeze) in 2004 then switched to a 41' Newmar Mountain Aire DP in 2010. So I guess I'll complete my "RV type tour" with a Class C that's about 30' or so.
Wish me luck.
PS If I could afford it, I'd buy this 32' Country Coach in a heartbeat.
|
TechWriter
|
06/29/21 11:25pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Considering move from class A to C
I would suggest that you look into one on a Chevy Chassis there you will have none of the heat problems from the doghouse,a larger cockpit area,better handling, and a much smoother riding RV.
Why Chevy? What's the matter with a Ford engine/chassis?
|
TechWriter
|
06/26/21 11:35pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Looking for Short, Used Class C with Island Bed
Fleetwood Tioga 26Q might be what you are looking for.
Nope. It has a 2-sided island bed like so . . .
https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/fleetwood-tioga-26q-floorplan.jpg height=192 width=454
3-sided island beds (what I want) run along these lines (28' and longer) . . .
https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2021/06/2007_forest-river-lexington-floorplans.jpg height=604 width=568
|
TechWriter
|
06/25/21 07:39pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
Looking for Short, Used Class C with Island Bed
I should have said "shortest". From my research it looks like a 26-footer is the smallest Class C with an island bed.
|
TechWriter
|
06/23/21 04:01pm |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Best place to sell class A motorhome
I also agree quality pictures are a must. Look at PPL out of Texas and do what they do. Same shots, angles, subject matter. Blurry or useless close ups of whatever ruin otherwise great ads on RV Trader. And bless whoever said remove or hide your personal stuff. You don't need silk flowers or faux breakfast in bed trays. Example, a power drill sitting on driver seat. "What are they fixing?"
Messy looking master bed. "Is this how they took care of the RV?" They matter.
Great advice. Yeah, those cluttered, messy RV photos send the message "We don't care." And don't take 20 photos of the same thing at different angles. I just looked through some used Class C photos online that had several photos of the rear storage space. I got it! I got it!
I took the max photos allowed on RV Trader and emptied our RV.
BTW, if you're taking photos with your phone, then hold your phone HORIZONTALLY -- not up and down.
|
TechWriter
|
06/17/21 10:27am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Best place to sell class A motorhome
I just sold my 2001 Newmar DP a few weeks ago. It took about a month.
I used RV Trader and a local free Facebook marketplace.
A lead from the Facebook site led to our RV's sale. We received very few leads from RV Trader.
Unless you're in a hurry, I'd suggest using local area ads over RV Trader and similar services.
It's a VERY good time to sell.
|
TechWriter
|
06/17/21 10:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Replacing day/night shades
I replaced all my original stringed blinds with manual MCD shades. What a mistake!
Expensive, noisy, and prone to malfunction. If you can, restring.
|
TechWriter
|
05/06/21 10:45pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Starlink mobile satellite internet is coming this year
And how will that work in campgrounds/boondocking with heavy tree cover?
You need a clear view of the northern sky.
There’s a Starlink app that can be used to check for field of vision.
I found that my unit needed “less sky” than I originally thought. However, if you’re parked under trees . . . read a book.
|
TechWriter
|
04/19/21 10:05pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Toilet seal lube?
We have a Dometic 310 series porcelan toilet about 2 yrs old. Checking toilet after the winter, seems that the seal is not sealing properly and the water leaks out over time. What can I use to "lube" it up? Silicone? I'm also going out to clean the seal again.
When your RV sits for any length of time, pour in enough vegetable oil to cover the seal. Unlike water, it won’t evaporate, and it lubes the seal nicely.
Also, if it keeps leaking, just replace the seal.
|
TechWriter
|
04/19/21 10:41am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: mounting my solar panels
I used two aluminum rails and four L-brackets to mount each of my panels.
https://rvseniormoments.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/solar_06_pv_on_rails.jpg
|
TechWriter
|
04/18/21 07:25pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: effects of / protection from undervoltage
In the 'do I really need a surge protector for a basic trailer' thread, saw a lot about 'undervoltage’ . . . if this involves sticking probes into a live outlet socket or something to check voltage, count me out--don't want to be the next Ted Bundy
Checking voltage with a meter or monitoring with a Kill o Watt is pointless.
What happens if the park voltage drops when you’re not watching?
First, undervoltage conditions typically happen in summer when everyone is using their AC. Voltage drops and your AC (and fridge) motors draw more amperage to keep up. More amps = increased heat = shorter motor life.
What I and others do is use a autoformer (voltage booster) to restore voltage levels. I also have a Surge Guard electrical fault device.
|
TechWriter
|
04/13/21 09:25am |
Tech Issues
|
 |
RE: Price differences in water filters
We have an R/O unit at home so we are used to a more robust filtering than those. I might get the Travel Berkey for drinking water and the $25 filter for the tank.
Get an RO system for your RV for drinking water.
|
TechWriter
|
04/11/21 11:36pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: What are you using for external water filtration?
Returning the unfiltered RO waste drinking water to the tank adds to the tanks contaminates which increases as the tank empties. So increased filter replacement.
Depends where you put your RO pre-filters. Mine filtered water before, not after, the water hits the holding tank. So no strain on the filters.
|
TechWriter
|
04/06/21 11:45pm |
Full-time RVing
|
|
RE: What are you using for external water filtration?
Plus, you can plumb an RO system so that the waste water goes back into your water tank so there's no waste.
no issues with the "dirty" water going back into the tank?
Not really. RO systems have multiple stages: typically 2 or 3 filters (sediment, carbon block, etc), then the RO membrane itself, and finally post filters like "water polishing" or adding minerals.
The waste water or brine comes from the RO membrane so the water has already passed through filtration that most RVers use anyway.
If anything, the RO brine is hard water, not "dirty". TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) levels in ppm are usually used to measure RO system water quality. For example, one of my measurements was . . .
- "Fresh" (incoming) water: 242 ppm
- RO treated water: 34 ppm
- RO Brine: 202 ppm
|
TechWriter
|
04/06/21 11:41pm |
Full-time RVing
|
