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 > Your search for posts made by 'Thermoguy' found 195 matches.

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RE: Can 19 Silverado 1500 pull 23rslw jayco with just a ball

Thank you guys! The guy actually had a camco trekker with 1200 WDH with sway control. Drove half way home staying in hotel now and still feel very slight sway that experienced pullers probably don’t even notice. If you were so nervous driving that trailer that after 1 hour you stopped and stayed the night in a hotel, you might reconsider RV life and look at renting a cabin in the woods... Regarding this thread, the WDH argument reminds me of the "you need a 1 ton dually" argument. I've towed 6-7K lbs horse trailers all over the northwest with a 1/2 ton bronco or 1/2 ton conversion van and never thought once about WDH. Didn't even know it was a thing until realizing everyone on this forum thinks you need one if you have a bumper pull trailer regardless of the truck pulling it. I have a friend with a trailer in the mid 20' range pulling with a 3/4 ton diesel and they sold her a WDH... really? I understand if you have issues and feel excess sway driving down the highway or if you are towing at the ends of the limits of your vehicle, but for the average weight range? Really doesn't seem like a necessity. In rethinking my rude comment to the OP - the truth is, driving with a trailer is no different than driving without a trailer. The difference is, just make all of your movements slower, accelerate slower, stop way slower, take corners way slower. But on an interstate, just keep your speeds reasonable, try to keep up with traffic, not 85MPH Texas highways, but 65 should be OK. On 2 lane highways, when there is a curve, that warning sign is now for you with a trailer. Go that speed or slower - just take it easy. Practice backing, backing is probably the most difficult maneuver when towing. Going forward is easy, just give everyone lots of space, and make sure they give you lots of space, stay in the right lane, pass when you can get past, don't sit in the middle or left lane. Watch for merging traffic, change lanes or slow down if needed, just don't be in a hurry. Before getting an RV, most of my towing was with horses, you can't make any sudden movements for the safety of the horse, and when 2-3,000lbs of animal shifts, you know it. RV's don't do that. The point - just take it easy and enjoy the drive, don't get so stressed about all the stuff. Towing should be as easy as driving without that trailer. If it isn't look at your setup and see where you can improve. With your new little trailer, you should be just fine with the setup you have.
Thermoguy 05/21/22 01:33pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can 19 Silverado 1500 pull 23rslw jayco with just a ball

Thank you guys! The guy actually had a camco trekker with 1200 WDH with sway control. Drove half way home staying in hotel now and still feel very slight sway that experienced pullers probably don’t even notice. If you were so nervous driving that trailer that after 1 hour you stopped and stayed the night in a hotel, you might reconsider RV life and look at renting a cabin in the woods... Regarding this thread, the WDH argument reminds me of the "you need a 1 ton dually" argument. I've towed 6-7K lbs horse trailers all over the northwest with a 1/2 ton bronco or 1/2 ton conversion van and never thought once about WDH. Didn't even know it was a thing until realizing everyone on this forum thinks you need one if you have a bumper pull trailer regardless of the truck pulling it. I have a friend with a trailer in the mid 20' range pulling with a 3/4 ton diesel and they sold her a WDH... really? I understand if you have issues and feel excess sway driving down the highway or if you are towing at the ends of the limits of your vehicle, but for the average weight range? Really doesn't seem like a necessity.
Thermoguy 05/21/22 09:47am Travel Trailers
RE: HELP: Fridge issues and trip tmw!

I appreciate the help guys! Yes an IR thermometer is not the most accurate but was enough to confirm I have a problem. .I don't know what accuracy these folks are expecting. Did you pull the back and check for leakage in the coils? Just want to make a comment about using an IR thermometer in this or any application. Assuming you have a reasonable unit, they can be quite accurate or very inaccurate. It's not the device as much as it is what you are looking at. If you are looking at something reflective - the cooling fins, wheel bearings, electrical connections, etc. These are materials that reflect light and therefore reflect temperature. Do not try to measure them, measure something that does not reflect near what you want to measure - or stick black tape on where you want to measure. That works for cooling fins, can work for wheel bearings, and almost works for electrical connections. Obviously, don't put tape on energized electrical, but measure the wire not the connection. Hope this helps. To the OP - glad you got it fixed - $700 ouch... These RV's are just a money pit, huh...
Thermoguy 05/20/22 01:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Hyundi Santa Cruz

I finally saw what I would consider the right trailer with the right tow vehicle, when it comes to small SUV's. Today, I think a Hyundi, coming the other way, with a nice, small, narrow trailer. Looked perfectly sized for the little SUV... I have a V6 Explorer with a 5000lb towing capacity and tow package. I can't imagine towing a travel trailer that size and enjoying the drive...
Thermoguy 05/20/22 01:22pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Upgrading converter

Measured the AMP's with no load - measured at .2AMP's. Not sure if that is good or bad or indifferent. Thanks
Thermoguy 05/15/22 03:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Upgrading converter

Thank you time2roll and BFL13. I was leaning towards the PD as on this site some have posted the PowerMax doesn't go in to boost mode. Which seems like the problem I might be having. I have the trailer plugged in to shore power and it measures 13.65V DC. measured at the box as well as at the battery terminal - but no batteries connected. It seems like it should be in boost mode right now, trying to boost charge. Reading the WFCO manual it should be at 14.4 boost mode with 13.6 as absorption and 13.2 at float mode. Not sure I am getting those numbers correctly. Reading on the PD, it looks like similar stages. I also checked the AC side and it is at 118V AC. Thank you for the info on the charging, I will bring a charger with me and just use that if I need to charge the batteries, bypassing the WFCO. Although, we usually run AC power when we run the gen just to have power. I'm not a fan of running the gen, but the wife usually wants to run a hair dryer, coffee maker or Micro when we use it. We won't be needing A/C this time of year... I think my next test will be to plug in the new batteries, run some lights, etc, let the batteries run down to 80% or so, then use the WFCO to recharge and see if it charges, if it does, then I don't need a new converter, if it doesn't then I do. I think a lot of what I was seeing was the bad batteries. I know from past experience when the batteries start not charging correctly, everything else goes haywire. I can also check my amp draw when doing this to see if I am getting a draw when I think everything is off. Again, thanks for the help. I read this site a lot and get lots of ideas. Some day we will upgrade and probably need even more help.
Thermoguy 05/15/22 03:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Travel Trailer Towing Recommendations

We just purchased our first travel trailer. We are looking at purchasing a new tow vehicle. Would like recommendations on what tow vehicle is best what to avoid. We will be towing a bunkhouse GVWR is 7,500 lbs. TIA for your recommendations. Where did you get this weight from? The dealer or a brochure? Or did you have it weighed ready for camp full of water? That might help you decide on the actual tongue weight.
Thermoguy 05/15/22 01:42pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Upgrading converter

Update - thank you all for the help. Had the batteries tested at Batteries Plus Bulbs - both showed a bad cell. Batteries less than 2 years old. But no warranty, no pro rate on golf cart batteries. Went to Costco and bought 2 more. I was a fan of the Duracell before today. Even though they have more AH, 18 month old batteries don't get me buying new ones. Saved $60 buying at Costco. But, I still need to figure out why this happened. Did my trickle charger fail me this winter? Although I tested with a meter and 6.3V seemed OK. Is the WFCO failing me? The batteries have only been in the trailer since the end of March, so only a few weeks this year. Could a converter kill the batteries that quickly? Can a bad cell be caused by the converter or charger? Not sure but will research this. From what I am seeing, the upgrade to a PD4635 converter would be a worthwhile investment? It's not that bad and there is a direct replacement if I can find one.
Thermoguy 05/15/22 01:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Upgrading converter

First thing is the batteries while being charged get up to a higher voltage than what they rest at when fully charged and not being charged. So 14.6 if that is what the charger gets them to and then after they stay at that until fully charged (amps have tapered right down, and hydrometer says SG is up to where it belongs when fully charged--say 1.285 or whatever then they sit at 12.75 or whatever. Takes time for that voltage to fall and until it gets down to 12.75 say they are passing through 13 on the way down, that is called a "surface charge" the amount it is over "resting" voltage. Second thing is the battery can look good from its voltage before any load is on it, then once loaded, the voltage will drop somewhat depending on the amps being drawn by the load. eg if batts are at 12.6 and the furnace comes on, it might be showing 12.4 or whatever. BUT if the furnace comes on and voltage drops to 12.0, then you know the batts are "collapsing under load" so out comes the Visa card. :( Meanwhile, the converter (with 120v input) with no battery in the RV is supposed to show 13.6ish and run the 12v things. It too might collapse under load or have a weird voltage that is too high like 18v or whatever. With the WFCO if the battery is connected and the battery is low enough so the battery voltage stays under 13.2v (the trigger amount) for its initial spike, then the WFCO should kick into 14.4v. Many don't for various reasons ever see that low of an initial spike so they stay at 13.6 and only do a slow charge on the battery. So yes, two separate things to look at before connecting the battery, then see what happens. Your overnight drop in battery voltage could still be from an unknown mystery draw. If you have an ammeter or battery monitor that shows amps, you can see if there is an amps draw right away where it might not show as a voltage sag until some time has passed. Some mystery draws that have been found include 12v tank heaters, somebody pulled the emergency brake switch on a trailer, TV antenna booster, 12v lights in underside compartments left on with doors closed so you can't see the light is on, 7-pin connected and the tow vehicle is drawing from the RV battery (happens with Chevs--no isolator like a Ford has) If going to get batteries load tested they are supposed to be full when the test is done. Thank you for all the detail. I don't have a hydrometer so won't be doing that test.. But thank you. I've thought about getting one but haven't. It seems like the WFCO might not be working right based on your info. But it could be the battery issues. Will post more in next thread. Question, where do you measure the amp draw? Would the positive lead to the batteries give you that measurement? I do have a clamp on amp meter.
Thermoguy 05/15/22 01:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Upgrading converter

I'm trying to determine if I have 2 different problems - so thank you for all the input. First, when out of the trailer for the winter, I had them on a trickle charger - not all the time, but would put them on for a week or 2, then let them rest, then back on, etc. They were fully charged when I put them back in the trailer. Yesterday at 4PM I measured the voltage at the batteries, 12.64 across both - 12.67 at the trailer leads to the batteries - measuring the red lead where it comes from the converter and measuring the white ground in the battery compartment. Also measured both batteries - L 6.29 R 6.27. At 10AM measured again, trailer unplugged from shore power since 4PM last night, everything off that can be turned off. 12.29V DC, L 6.17 R 6.13. From what I can determine, I am at 60% charge after 1 night with no load. I guess I need to take the batteries to have them tested at, they are not even 2 years old. I am confused by the comments, converter is OK, need new converter... I guess a question, what should the fully charged voltage across the batteries be? I think it is 12.8 - 12.7 considered full. But on the comments above, should I see 13.2? I'm leaning towards a new converter but need to know if the problem is the batteries before I buy a converter. Need to act soon as only a couple weeks before our next trip with no power...
Thermoguy 05/15/22 11:10am Tech Issues
RE: Upgrading converter

Two lead placement locations 1:The battery. Fist unpluggee then plugged in note any voltage difference Then hours later (Like 4) and again not the voltage then post and we may be able to advise better as to "is it working) WFCO has a known (And as I'm told though I've never done it easily fixed) issue where it does not go into BULK so it takes a long time to charge. This replaces the electronics on the back of the breaker/fuse panel so it's a bit cheaper than the 9200 series but otherwise works the same. Question 2: Progressive Dynamics 4600 series I think the smallest is 4645 (With a 30 amp converter you will want the smallest 4600) Thanks for the input. I did measure the red and white leads coming from the converter with no battery hooked up and it measured 14.65 (aprox). I measured the white ground and red lead in the battery compartment and it read the same. I then hooked up the batteries and measured, 12.something, don't recall the exact number. That tells me that when not hooked up the converter is trying to charge at max level, then when hooked up it is going into float mode? maybe?... I will unplug the trailer, measure after letting it sit for a bit, then measure again in the morning - to see what draw I get overnight. I have checked every light, etc, nothing is on that can be turned off. Any other suggestions?
Thermoguy 05/14/22 04:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Upgrading converter

I apologize for hijacking this thread. I am interested in a possible converter upgrade as well. First, I have a WFCO WF-8935 - 30AMP, not 55AMP. Trying to decide if I have a battery charging problem or battery problem. I have 2 2year old 6V Duracell batteries. When I put them on an external charger, they charge right up, but aren't holding the charge for long. Using the installed WFCO charger, they never seem to get to full charge status. This is a new problem as I just installed the batteries after winter storage a couple weeks ago. We are getting ready for memorial day weekend and turns out I booked the wrong site with no power or water, not sure how I missed that. But, we have a generator and can top off the batteries, just don't want to do that every day or even try to get away without using the gen if I can. Question 1. How do I test to see if the converter is working correctly and charging the batteries? I feel like I'm not putting my leads in the right place, only ever getting a little over 12v DC. Question 2 if I replace the converter, what is a good substitute? Will the PD 4635WV slide right in? Is there a case to go larger? 45 or 55 AMP? If so, what else do you need to change? Any other suggestions? Not a newby to RV's but have never had to mess with the electrical system other than switching to 6v and finding a disconnected ground which caused my electrical system to not work... Thanks in advance for any advice. Just an FYI, not switching to LiIon, Not adding solar... etc. What I have works when it's working. We only boondock 3-4 times a year and the gen works fine to recharge the batteries when it works. We try to camp away from other people when we can.
Thermoguy 05/14/22 02:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Trying to figure out what trailers I can tow

I don't understand why all the back and forth about all of this. Seems to me that there is only one way to do this without looking at door stickers and getting generic info from wherever. We all should know our truck GVW, and gross axle weight ratings. Simply drive to the nearest truck scale and weigh front and rear axles, and add em together for the truck weight. Subtract those numbers from the numbers you already know, and Bob's yer uncle! What better way to figure out how big a trailer you can tow? The drawback from there is wading thru the manufacturers weight info which we all know is always on the light side. Common sense should take over from there. IMHO of course. How do you do that is you are buying a truck? Or even worst, have to order one because the dealer doesn't stock them anymore?
Thermoguy 04/15/22 08:59am Travel Trailers
RE: Ideas for Vancouver, Whistler & Washington

You might even consider coming up the east side of the mountains, through Bend OR, into Eastern WA, Northern ID. Hit Canada somewhere near Kelowna. That would be a nice drive...
Thermoguy 04/12/22 01:26pm Roads and Routes
RE: Get Internet with No Cell Service??

Where are you coming up with them allowing you to move around with it? Everything I have read says it is for a single address location only. When I check my service address, it says my area is already at maximum capacity and to expect delivery in 2023. I looked all over their website and could not find roaming was OK. I also read that they plan to have a mobile version, but it was a few years out.
Thermoguy 04/08/22 01:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Getting gas with long trailer?

Wow, so many people overthink this. Getting gas is simple and many gas stations have large areas that are not an issue for a truck and trailer. I have a diesel but never go to the "truck" island, always the same side as vehicles. It's probably harder to get diesel as there are limited pumps and you often have to wait for an open pump. But, if you are traveling on the interstate or highway, most if not all stations are going to have ample room. I can't even recall backing out unless there is a car at the pump in front of me and I can't go forward or don't want to wait. Just look before you drive in the driveway, if it is too tight, go to another one, usually across the street. I think I spend more time looking for the price then looking if I can get in and out. This really is a non issue, or at least not worth stressing or even planning in advance. I have never looked at Google to see if the station is large enough. If you wanted to gas up in the city, then you might have to think a little harder for a station with room, but no the interstate, don't even worry... You claim that it is not an issue then you mention if it's too tight go across the street......THe idea is to pull into an accesible place the 1st time! Getting gasoline while hooked often requires effort.It's not as easy as getting diesel. It's not the issue of our lifetime, but it is worth some discussion and often requires some planning/scouting. My Point was, you can tell before you try to pull in if it is a good gas station or not. Along the interstate I would venture to guess 90% of gas stations can accommodate a larger rig. Not at the Diesel island, at all islands. I drive a diesel but always use the standard islands, don't like the dedicated truck islands and I'm not one to get in the way of a commercial trucker. I have never planned ahead other than to only stop for gas when I can see that there are multiple choices or that the station can accommodate me, this is easy to see before you take the exit. Also, if there is a Love's or other truck stop, I have found the gas islands are wide and easy to get in and out of.
Thermoguy 04/08/22 01:28pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Getting gas with long trailer?

Wow, so many people overthink this. Getting gas is simple and many gas stations have large areas that are not an issue for a truck and trailer. I have a diesel but never go to the "truck" island, always the same side as vehicles. It's probably harder to get diesel as there are limited pumps and you often have to wait for an open pump. But, if you are traveling on the interstate or highway, most if not all stations are going to have ample room. I can't even recall backing out unless there is a car at the pump in front of me and I can't go forward or don't want to wait. Just look before you drive in the driveway, if it is too tight, go to another one, usually across the street. I think I spend more time looking for the price then looking if I can get in and out. This really is a non issue, or at least not worth stressing or even planning in advance. I have never looked at Google to see if the station is large enough. If you wanted to gas up in the city, then you might have to think a little harder for a station with room, but no the interstate, don't even worry...
Thermoguy 04/07/22 08:33am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Greenbal Tires

Is there a reason you need an ST tire? You might look at LT tires if they come in your size.
Thermoguy 04/04/22 11:47am Fifth-Wheels
RE: time to get vehicle after ordering

Michigander, Dave Kring Chevy over in Petosky, MI has both an LS and an LT in stock on the lot. At most dealers today when you see popular new vehicles still "in stock" what that means is that they are asking and holding out for some ridiculous price, which they know they will ultimately get from some sucker. They are probably calling it something like a "market surcharge". I can find a fair amount of GM3500's or Ford F250/350's in stock here in Ohio but only if your willing to go $5K on top of sticker. Even that depends on the dealer. I recently had to service my truck and the dealer wanted to give me an "appraisal" I thought, what the heck, everything is up right now might as well check it out. First, they lowballed my trade in, $5-$10K under KBB. Then they told me ordering a truck, their standard is $5K over MSRP depending on the vehicle, some are more. It's all about profit. They aren't selling as many trucks, so need to make more profit on everything they sell. We also talked about the supply issue. He was pretty confident that "ordering" a truck and waiting for it to be built and shipped to the dealer is the new norm. They can get a premium for every vehicle and clients are willing to wait. Anything they order and the deal falls through, having them on the lot, the premium goes up, people are willing to pay even more for instant delivery. I have issues with all of this. Mostly, I want to check out the truck, drive it, inspect it for damage or whatever, then deal on the price. Starting at a premium over MSRP doesn't work for me. We all know the dealer is making a large profit at MSRP and that service keeps the doors open. So, adding a premium just to make a higher profit is a bad business model and doesn't deserve my business. Vehicles are already way over priced for what you get. Paying $85K-$90K for a diesel truck is outrageous. I feel bad for our Canadian friends. What's going to be the price of a truck in 5-10 years - are we all willing to pay $150K for the same truck your driving now? I don't know about the rest of you but I'm not making any more money, the company I work for doesn't give raises and in this uncertain economy isn't doing anything for their employees to offset inflation.
Thermoguy 04/02/22 09:19am Tow Vehicles
RE: Bike carrier

If you have bikes on the back of a trailer, do not use the bumper, have a hitch welded to the frame. Also, do not use a standard car type bike carrier, make sure you get one designed for trailers. They need to not be able to articulate, fixed position. I have a Yakima 4 bike rack designed for the back of a trailer. We mostly carry 3 bikes but have carried 4. Have never had a problem.
Thermoguy 03/27/22 10:05am Travel Trailers
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