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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Mount for Cell Phone, GPS, and more
Looks useful to me. I've been looking for a good way to mount a couple accessories in my Ram.
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TurnThePage
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10/15/21 12:40pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Pro-Pride Hitch
Jerking is likely just the road. What are you using for sway control now? Have you confirmed that you have adequate tongue weight and tires aired up beyond what the door jam sticker says?
As long as my P metric tires are aired to their max and the trailer tires are aired to their max, and of course tongue weight is around 12% or higher, I only experience "sway" when a semi goes by. If I use my Equal-I-zer in addition to the above, I experience zero sway. I don't even experience the jerking that's often reported.
On edit, I'm not promoting what I use, just pointing out that there's plenty of options and considerations.
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TurnThePage
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10/13/21 03:00pm |
Towing
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RE: Rooftop material
Do they both get chalky? If I walk or kneel on mine, I become very white quickly. Chalky is most likely EPDM. The white part sluffs off over time.
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TurnThePage
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10/05/21 08:18am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Rooftop material
You can remove the inner trim for one of the vents which will allow you to see the edges of the material, where it was cut to fit the opening. EPDM will be white on top, and black on the bottom.
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TurnThePage
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10/04/21 08:24am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Why ? trailer jacks so tall ?
It seems like they could mount the tongue jack more rearward. Between the batteries and the propane maybe, leaving lots of room up front.
I used a longer shank that gave me an extra 6" of clearance for the tailgate. Worked perfect for my application, but I can feel the difference when towing. Still well controlled, just not quite as perfect. My truck is a half ton and my trailer is 24' long and weighs 6300 - 6500 lbs.
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TurnThePage
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10/03/21 10:20am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Trailer Bounce oscillations
Most trailers don't come with shocks, which would correct that behavior. If it's really bouncing that much, the springs might be undersized too.
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TurnThePage
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09/23/21 01:39pm |
Towing
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RE: An upgraded option for the half ton Pickup crowd
That's my question too.
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TurnThePage
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09/20/21 02:37pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New Truck question(s)
My trailer is about 6500 lbs. My 7 year old truck with 3.92 gears and an 8 speed, has 395 hp. I haven't towed in Colorado, but routinely tow up and down various mountain passes in the west. I can maintain the speed limit anywhere, and still have pedal left. Of course, the RPMs are occasionally up there quite a ways, but the engine is singing, not screaming. On the flats, I'm usually in 7th gear, sometimes 8th. The trailer is easily within the capacity of the truck and tows very well. I can't imagine your GM being much different. If you have issues, unless your truck is genuinely wore out, you should be able to correct what ails it easily enough. Unless you intend to upgrade the trailer (or carry additional payload) in the future, an HD is pure overkill and a waste of money. JMHO of course.
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TurnThePage
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09/20/21 12:14pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: roof replace or coat?
I used Heng's Roof Coating on my 2004 roof a few years ago. It's holding up well. The roof is nice and white again, thus reflecting away a lot of sunlight and heat. If my RV was going to last me the rest of my life, I might whip out the checkbook for a new one. I would probably pay one of those services that professionally coat the current roof. I can't remember their names right off, but the price is less than a replacement and the warranty is longer.
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TurnThePage
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09/17/21 04:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Man, they don't make 'em like they used to
No doubt minimum wage is too low, but that's not a relative point in this thread.
The things I was calling out were all about design: a thin strap secured with a self tapping screw to support hundreds of pounds of holding tank, water lines not protected from the cold, non-insulated floors, etc.
That kind of stuff has significantly narrowed my choices for the next RV.
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TurnThePage
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09/10/21 08:31am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Man, they don't make 'em like they used to
It seems like these "heated basements" are an excuse to no longer insulate the floor. I guess I'm glad that I made my own "heated basement", and my budget trailer came from the factory with an insulated floor.
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TurnThePage
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09/09/21 09:08am |
Travel Trailers
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Man, they don't make 'em like they used to
While doing a little online research, I stumbled across a couple videos of newer trailers from a popular brand, that really made me step back. Both videos were of the underbelly. In both cases the lining was peeled back and you could see the water lines and wiring just laying there, unprotected or even fastened down. The holding tanks were held in with just a strap stretched between cross members, and secured with what looked like a self tapping bolt. There was a 2" heater vent to the compartment, but there was virtually no insulation aside from that foil sheet. I can't imagine that working very well in freezing conditions, and one of the owners was complaining about how quick it froze up.
On the other hand, my 17yo entry level trailer has all water lines except the low point drains inside away from the cold. The tanks are all supported by stout cross members securely bolted directly to the main I-beams. The only wiring and plumbing on the outside is necessary. The rest is inside.
I really want a new RV, but they're making it tough. Granted, I could correct the shortcomings of those new trailers fairly simply, but why should I have to? Especially at the price points these guys expect!
OK, rant over.
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TurnThePage
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09/08/21 10:08pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Is there a quiet water pump?
I'm not sure if there is a quiet pump. But as above there are a couple of ways to make it quieter.
Make sure the pump is mounted on a rubber or soft foam pad.
Cut the PEX tubing near the pump and add some hose clamps and flexible line.
Use some foam and follow the water lines out of the pump. Wedge a piece of foam between the hard lines and the walls and floor.
Add an accumulator tank into the system. An accumulator will allow a flush or two without turning on the pump making for a silent flush. The downside is once the accumulator pressure bleeds off the pump has to run longer to re-pressurize the system.Exactly. Except you don't need to cut the tubing. You can buy flexible hose with the fittings at pretty much any hardware store. Your goal is to isolate the vibrating parts from the stationary parts, and use an accumulator to reduce how often the pump runs.
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TurnThePage
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09/08/21 10:49am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Suggestions for a Weight Distribution Hitch
I've been towing with the Equal-I-zer for 17 years. It has performed absolutely perfect in every scenario I have put it through, including emergency maneuvers on winding overpasses. As long as you have an electric tongue jack, it's nearly effortless to hook up. You may have to lean into the swaybars with your hip to push them onto the L brackets. That's the hardest part.
But it's NOT a quiet hitch. Even with the nylon pads on the L brackets. You can make it quiet for a little while but it won't last. With that said, I don't think it makes any noise while you're on the highway, just the slow maneuvers into driveways and campgrounds.
One awesome advantage of the Equal-I-zer style hitches is that you can leave the swaybars attached to the hitch on the tow vehicle, and just push them up close to the bumper. They will stay there. No lifting and figuring out where to store stuff.
My hitch is starting to show wear so I've been shopping around for a replacement. On Amazon, the only complaints about the Equal-I-zer is related to the vendor not the hitch. I was shopping it against the Blue Ox Sway Pro, which gets good reviews, but not as good as the EQ. People still mention minor sway with the Blue Ox.
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TurnThePage
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09/06/21 11:47am |
Towing
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RE: "Use Both Lanes Until Merge Point"
When people have opportunities to move over and they don’t and speed past to the end THAT is the problem. When I pulled in like most have and are in the thru lane we are bumper to bumper near the end. Why should I hit my brakes to let someone in that clearly does not think they should wait like everyone else???
You are bumper to bumper backed up potentially for miles, blocking offramps behind you. All while a perfectly open lane is sitting there empty.If it's bumper to bumper, where, exactly, are all those people going to go in that "open lane"? It ends up ahead and the other lane is bumper to bumper, i.e. no place for those people to go once they reach the end. That's why you're merging in the first place.I've seen it (very recently) where people were trying to merge in the stopped lane, thus backing up the lane they're in, when there's literally over a mile of open lane ahead of them. When people are "zipping" by, I think they're usually going 20 - 25 mph in an open lane. A lane that could have been occupied by people in the backed up lane. In heavier traffic both lanes will be backed up. That's how it is. Don't make it worse by lining up miles before the merge, then forcing your perceived slight on others. This really shouldn't even be an RV issue, but last time it happened to me, a AW used his fiver to block both lanes about a half mile before the merge. LAME.
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TurnThePage
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09/03/21 06:26pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: "Use Both Lanes Until Merge Point"
When people have opportunities to move over and they don’t and speed past to the end THAT is the problem. When I pulled in like most have and are in the thru lane we are bumper to bumper near the end. Why should I hit my brakes to let someone in that clearly does not think they should wait like everyone else???
You are bumper to bumper backed up potentially for miles, blocking offramps behind you. All while a perfectly open lane is sitting there empty.
On edit, sorry, I quoted the wrong post.
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TurnThePage
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09/03/21 05:48pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Fan Speed Control
What is amazing is the levels some will go to, to work on the “efficiency” of a fart fan….
While we’re on that, new camper doesn’t have a FF (which I’ve IE learned in the last4 pages is apparently horrible inefficient junk, lol, despite all the great press it receives here).
Camper has 3 basic fart fans, but the center one in the kitchen I’m considering replacing with something better/variable speed and directional.
Since FFs are ****, what do the experts recommend?Looks to me like the current options are FF, Maxxair, Vortex, or the venerable computer style fan.
I guess maybe I'd try the Maxxair as my first choice right now. The Vortex is a super simple retrofit for those that aren't comfortable getting on the roof or getting more involved.
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TurnThePage
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08/29/21 04:57pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fan Speed Control
I have several fans controlled by PWM. One of them is a Surflo product (similar to the FF) that is no longer manufactured. It has brushes but has run flawlessly for years and move tons of air. I installed the original version of the Heng's Vortex in the bathroom, then added a PWM to it. It really moves a lot of air, but can get noisy (wind noise) at top speed. I also have a fan that is intended for the windshield area of a motorhome, but I use it for the bed area. I added a 12.5 khz PWM controller to it that works excellently with no noise that I can hear. The Surflo fan has the highest draw at 2.1 amps on full speed. I'm a firm believer in this technology. It's worked great for me. It's awesome to be able to select virtually any speed you want.
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TurnThePage
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08/28/21 02:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Fan Speed Control
You may have had a bad PWM. I added one to my bathroom fan (the cheap one that
many here use, but I can't remember the name of) years ago, and it's still going strong, and quiet. Sorry I can't remember much about it beyond that.
I did just add a 2 amp fan to my bed area, and connected it to a PWM controller that seems to be working well so far. It's very over rated for the job though. And annoyingly it doesn't shut completely off, so I need to add a power switch too. Beyond that it's working great so far.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NQ5G71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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TurnThePage
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08/24/21 10:05pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: ? electrical problem...what’s happening? Should I worry?
Something similar to these two items would keep you pretty well in the know about your current power situation.
12 volt plug in gauge
Kill-a-watt meter
And while you're at it, get one of these and keep it plugged into the Kill-a-watt.
Circuit tester
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TurnThePage
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08/19/21 03:55pm |
Tech Issues
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