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RE: Axle Bearing Service - Dos and Dont's???

quick update.... I waited too long to complete this service and now it's too dang hot to do this work outside!! As soon as it cools I will git er done! Info on Timken Bearings Set 17 (L68149/L68111)...... Amazon show images of bearings that have USA imprinted on them, but under "Technical Details" it states country of origin as China. Some Amazon reviewers state that they received bearings Made in USA. I may chance it and return if not USA made. I'm not even sure if stamped USA means made in USA or assembled in USA. Called Summit Racing today and had them check on the same bearings. Customer service has information that is not available on their website that includes builder/manufacturer information. They looked them up and assured me their info states, "Country of Origin: USA." I hope this information helps those that prefer to use Timken bearings. I heard and read the same thing regarding where the bearings are made. So far every set of Timken's I've bought from Amazon have been made in the USA. Though, the Timken seals seem to come from Taiwan or Mexico.
Vintage465 08/25/22 06:36am Travel Trailers
RE: How to REMOVE brake drum races using a shop press?

I knock them out with a drift and freeze the new ones and install them with the same drift once they are tapped into place with a hammer. I don't use a brass drift or a brass hammer. The races are so much harder than the drift or the hammer, you'd have to really be asleep at the wheel to do any kind of damage to a race with either.
Vintage465 07/31/22 09:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: What to look for in a tire pressure monitoring system for TT

I have a TST brand TPMS. I went with TST really for no other reason that it comes from the real world of 18 wheeler long haul trucking. Those guys rely on knowing what's going on and that sat well with me.
Vintage465 07/27/22 06:26pm Travel Trailers
RE: Battery and Solar woes

It’s kind of fun to find this stuff out. A new 220 watt panel is now quite reasonable and that cheap controller is obviously inaccurate and could be replaced. Renogy makes a reasonably priced one and so does Grape Solar. A separate battery monitor would be a good idea too. I also changed out the WFCO for PD but I added lithium batteries. More power for fewer amp hr rating. Can be discharged 80% and the electronic monitor just turns them off if they get that low. Also turns off charging if it’s below 32° but they still release power. Insulating the battery compartment helps with this. We camped in the cold this spring and had no issues. You will be glad you had issues because now you are more knowledgeable. I would have removed them for a deep charge too. You could even take them to an Auto Zone and they will do a deep charge and cell test for you. I was a terrible battery user for years. Now I don’t worry about it. That's how I was...A terrible battery user. I killed so many batteries I think I actually made a noticeable differenct in Californias economy. Now I've had the same set for 4 years.....that's a record for me....heck it was a record when I hit 18 months!
Vintage465 07/25/22 01:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Batteries serviced

I used the Permatex spray and it worked perfect. And I use the Deka bulb type battery filler. It has a flexible "snout" and it's easy to wiggle into tight spots and doesn't make a mess.
Vintage465 07/23/22 08:23pm Tech Issues
RE: 16' Scamp and 2018 Ram 2500 diesel

Do it! Let 'em laugh about it!....gonna step out on and unfamiliar limb and say you likely won't need a W.D. Hitch...............
Vintage465 07/23/22 08:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: Battery and Solar woes

Long read, so grab a coffee... Rockwood Mini-Lite 2306. We’ve had this generic 100W flexible solar panel which has served us well for several years now. I hate drilling holes in the roof of my RV to pass wires through, so we simply toss the panel onto the roof when we arrive, and make connections to the controller and batteries. When not in use, the panel travels inside the RV between two mattresses, to keep it safe. I coupled it with a 10Amp PWM controller that I had purchased from a different solar vendor a few years prior. This controller is adaptable for flooded or AGM batteries, but was set for flooded, as that is what we’ve always used. The controller has minimal user-interface (other than setting the battery type) and the only display you have is two green LED’s to indicate proper connection, and when the batteries are “fully charged” it will blink a green light to show “full”. As I mentioned, this setup has served us well for the past several years. Last year, I needed to replace the batteries in the RV as they were over 6 years old and one of the terminals was starting to show deposits, meaning that gas was leaking through somewhere. I replaced them with a pair of Trojan T-105’s. We do a mix of dry and full-hookup camping over the summer months, so either the solar panel or the on-board charger is keeping the batteries at the ready...according to the LED display on the controller or the one inside the RV. Things started acting up on this last trip; after a couple of days of sunny skies, we had a few days of rain which meant the batteries wouldn’t get full power from the panel, but enough to keep the interior indicator showing 100%, and the green LED on the controller blinking. As soon as dusk fell, the indicator would show about 80% and would drop to 40% when running the water pump. This wasn’t normal, so I looked into the battery connections...definitely not perfect, but not bad enough to cause this. Cleaned them up but the results didn’t change. Luckily my buddy had a hygrometer, so I tested the individual cells...reading around 1230...only about 75% “fully charged” contrary to what my solar charge-controller was telling me. The next few days gave us some more sun, so I monitored them carefully. According to the T-105 data sheet, the OCV of each battery when fully charged should be 6.37 yet even when I was able to achieve this reading through use of the solar panel...the hygrometer would still only indicate about 75 - 80 % charge. I use a high-end FLUKE multi-meter, in case there’s any concern about my tool-of-choice. By contrast, my buddy also has the T-105 batteries and his OCV is around 6.9 and the hygrometer shows fully-charged. When we arrived at the “full hookup” site the following week, the converter/charger in the RV went wild, as it struggled to charge the batteries. After about 4 hours with the fan running full blast, it finally quieted down and the batteries seemed to catch up and recuperate to full charge....or so I thought. Checking them with the hygrometer again...only 80% charge even though the OCV was 6.6V now. By now, I’m starting to question whether this hygrometer is accurate, so my buddy takes it over to his rig and checks his batteries...100% charged. At this point, I’m wondering if my converter/charger is defunct, so I pull out the manual and run through the troubleshooting guide. According to it, the output terminals should read 13.6 with the batteries only reads 13.2....half of which is 6.6...sound familiar? I usually carry a spare car battery for Emergency use and even it shows between 1220 and 1230 on the hygrometer after being “charged” on the solar panel. So it looks as if I have several issues at play here. One is the charger in the RV not putting out enough and the other being the charge controller from the solar panel also giving me bad intel. I could use some advice/feedback.... I get scolded now and then for saying this but.....seeing you as an RV owner and somewhat do-it-yourselfer, I think it's beneficial to get over "hating drilling holes in your roof". There are so many great products to make this very do-able and leak free that I consider "not wanting to drill holes in the roof" a non issue now days. I think all of us on this forum are better craftsmen than the people that built our coaches and we have the same or more products at our disposal than the builders. I've modded my solar on the roof of my RV and just took my time doing everything I wanted to and did it carefully with zero issues and we've been in some serious rain and storms too. Saying all this becuase I now have a solar system that easily keeps up with the four 6v golf cart batteries. No tilting, no setting out panels, no following the sun.......and of course no shade for my campsites!...when possible. I have this easy solar life 'cause I got over punching holes in my roof.
Vintage465 07/22/22 09:10am Tech Issues
RE: Solar question

It really comes down to a couple things: How much you want to set up when you get on site.....and how much you want to take down when you leave. The other thing is what you want, or can do with out. We don't have a single 120v appliance or 120v need. We are able to accomplish everthing in our trailer that we do at home, it's just that we use 12v and propane......or a campfire. So my 4-6v batteries and 450w of well thought out solar, fixed to the roof, cares for all our needs and I have no suitcase panels to pick up and store when I leave. Cool thing is everone can have their own set up taylored to their needs and be happy with it.
Vintage465 07/09/22 08:13am Tech Issues
RE: The cost of a Diesel Truck

I really never brought the difference in cost into the picture. Nor did I think about the resale value. I wanted the easiest way possible to tow my trailer in my retirement years. I've towed with all sorts of different vehicles since 1982. I figured I did my apprenticeship with everything else and now-a-days I don't ever see myself towing with anything else. It's just so easy....and quiet.
Vintage465 07/01/22 08:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Pulling new heater duct

There is a lot of good thinking behind using an actual elbow to get around a corner if it possible to do that. Problem is usually where it's that tight, it'd be stinker to try and get a elbow in there. I'm in the "mental engineering" phase of adding some ducts to cabinets so the coffee cups aren't ice cold on those 20-30 degree mornings. I also need to add a duct over to my wifes side of the dinette so she's not freezing her legs off while I roasting on my side of the dinette.
Vintage465 06/19/22 01:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Unhooked for the night.

If it's an overnighter thing I don't plan to unhook unless leveling requires it. The most I may do is unplug the 7pin connector....and I usually don't even do that.
Vintage465 06/19/22 01:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Harbor Freight Predator 3500

I heard one running the other day and it was very quiet. At leas as quiet as anything I've heard. I have a Firman Whisper Quiet 3300/3000 and I think the Predator may have been quieter.....that's really my wifes opinion because she doesn't beleive our Firman is whisper quiet! It is 58db @ 20 feet........
Vintage465 06/16/22 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Older Reese hitch

I'm thinking that we need to know if your two hitches are of similar design. Meaning are they both chain and snap-up type or are they friction type or do you have one of each? If they are chain and snap-up type, you should not need to change the snap ups on your coach. If they are friction type It's likely what QCMan indicated. And if you have one of each, the whole idea is out the window.
Vintage465 06/13/22 07:10pm Travel Trailers
RE: brake shoes

i have about 10k miles towing on my 33 ft tt thought i would check the brakes and pulled drum of to my surprise i only one wheel had any brake lining left i was stopping with only 1 wheel brake do brake shoes not last that long on a tt 80% of travel is on interstate so i dont use them that much they have never been overheated or never notice them dragging or running hot when on road is this normal When replacing, I'm thinking you're aware that it is no longer customary to replace shoes. It is actually cheaper to get the whole assembly from from etrailer or Amazon(ugh)than to replace the magnets and shoes.
Vintage465 06/12/22 04:10pm Travel Trailers
RE: brake shoes

Witht the EZ-Lube system by Dexter, you'll get several thousand more miles out of your shoes because of all the grease on your shoes.....cuts down wear ya know...Just kidding...So in reality I've noticed the Chinese made brake assemblies tend to "chunk-out" more so than the Dexter USA made units. 10k does seem a little low...Ok, a lot low! Can't look right now but it seems you said your coach is a 2002? It may have had Dexter's which point I have no logical explanation for ya'alls...........unless your brakes are way under sized,
Vintage465 06/12/22 04:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Bought a second truck.

When we were kids my dad had an RV shop. We minions were his work force and wired up all the tow vehicles to campers and trailers. The early 70's Ford pickups that were "Camper Special" had a factory camper plug under the front drivers side corner of the bed. The bracket that held the recptical almost always had a pair of Vise-Grips holding the nut in place so the guy/gal on the assembly line could air gun the bolt. They seldom took the Vise Grip off. It was good supplier of Vise Grips. It the later years when a F250 or F350 Camper Special came into the shop we'd find a rusty pair of Vise Grips still there! I was the 2nd owner of a 1972 F-250 camper special so I didn't get the free vise-grips. I was the original owner of a 1979 F-250 camper special, still no vise-grips. I feel cheated, LOL Well, it is possible that by 1978-1979 Ford figured out how to fuse the nut to the bracket and eliminate the need for the Vise Grips.......
Vintage465 06/12/22 10:13am Tow Vehicles
RE: Battery question???? XXXX UPDATE XXXXX

They need to be "Equalized" how to do that on your system I do not know. I know how I'd do it but it requires hooking them in parallel to a DIFFERENT charger. Don’t equalize AGMs. It will damage them. True statement. Everything I've read is that AGM's aren't supposed to be equalized.
Vintage465 06/12/22 10:09am Tech Issues
RE: Charging 6v golf cart batteries?

Maybe you guys could stick to helping the OP rather than continuing one of the decidedly dumber arguments, even for this group, in recent memory. Guy had/has some valid questions that he was getting good advice about and then BAM enter the stupidity crew! I will stand corrected and consider myself "schooled" on thread hijacking.:o Also I thought I was addressing the OP and after checking I was actually responding to another contributor....But I do think my analogy was on point:W
Vintage465 06/11/22 09:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Charging 6v golf cart batteries?

So someone split my 12 volt battery in half. :E Must have been the previous owner. Think of it using this analogy.....One 12 gallon gas tank......used it for 10 years, rusted out. Replaced it with two 6 gallon gas tanks linked together. They're still 6 gallon tanks, but they equal 12 gallons. Same with the battery. No doubt the coach came with a 12v. Someone wisely(in my opinion) replaced it with two 6v's wired to equal 12.6v,+/- to be compatable with a 12v system. All is good, no technical or mysterious discussion necessary...... Now you go and make an incorrect analogy that make's wa8xms point relevant. ;) If you have 2 - 6gal tanks and one is empty, assuming you only need to go say 20miles, you have full capability (I'm assuming you get better than 3.5mpg). If you have 2 - 6v batteries and one is damaged, drained or otherwise taken out of service, you can't operate even if the remaining battery if fully charged and in great condition. What you are describing would be 2 - 12v batteries. You can wire them in parallel which would be equivalent to pulling off of both 6gal tanks simultaneously. Or you could put in switches/valves, you can choose one battery/tank to operate off of and when empty switch to the other. But for the OP, he has 2 - 6v batteries wired in series to put out 12v power. - If he asks a question and describes it this way, he is likely to get good advice. - If he says he has a 12 volt system with 2 batteries, there is a very good chance, people will assume 2 - 12v batteries wired in parallel and the advice will be wrong. Well, The OP said.."So someone split my 12 volt battery in half. Must have been the previous owner". I think I made it pretty easy to understand how a coach delivered with a single 12v battery was retrofitted with 2-6er's to be compatable with a 12v sysytem. Notice I mentioned the two 6 gallons are linked, meaning they will draw down as a 12 gallon unit. Seems you are seeing it from usage or draw down perspective and I'm seeing it as two 6's equal 12, but the two sixes still have the identity of 6v batteries.
Vintage465 06/11/22 10:01am Tech Issues
RE: Bought a second truck.

When we were kids my dad had an RV shop. We minions were his work force and wired up all the tow vehicles to campers and trailers. The early 70's Ford pickups that were "Camper Special" had a factory camper plug under the front drivers side corner of the bed. The bracket that held the recptical almost always had a pair of Vise-Grips holding the nut in place so the guy/gal on the assembly line could air gun the bolt. They seldom took the Vise Grip off. It was good supplier of Vise Grips. It the later years when a F250 or F350 Camper Special came into the shop we'd find a rusty pair of Vise Grips still there!
Vintage465 06/10/22 01:30pm Tow Vehicles
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