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RE: Towing 2021 Wrangler - Wiring Harness
Thanks. Your comments were exactly what I was thinking. When looking at the diagrams I could not figure which end of the connector you are looking at. Since I have never installed any towing harness I do not know how this harness compares in installation difficulty to other harnesses. I believe the difficulty with any of them will be running the harness from front to back.
I have also installed the Mopar wiring harness. It is complicated mostly because of running the cable from the front to the back through the interior. And you have to get a plastic rivet gun to reinstall the fender liner.
Also, the diagrams do not show which end of the electrical connectors you are looking at. I got it wrong. And I rewired the front to use the standard 6 wire trailer connector.
The harness uses relays for the lights with power coming from the motorhome.
I used the Cooltech hardness on my 2012 JK, but I didn't want to have to remember to use a switch on my 2019 JL.
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Wayfarer
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02/23/21 07:34am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Towing 2021 Wrangler - Wiring Harness
I looked at one online and the install instructions. Not sure if it is what you used. Seems to be complicated to install. Not many words just a lot of pictures so maybe not as difficult as it appears. This harness appears not to use any relays or diodes. Price is around $400+ depending on where you buy it.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/rv-towing-harness-jeep-wrangler-jl-82215382
I used the Mopar harness. Works for brake, turn, and running lights without draining battery.
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Wayfarer
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02/22/21 12:02pm |
Dinghy Towing
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Towing 2021 Wrangler - Wiring Harness
I'm getting ready to tow a 2021 Wrangler and have been reading various forums about doing this. I've read comments that the Wrangler will disable the lights after the ignition has been turned off for 30 seconds or so thus negating the need for any diodes or switches
If the above is true I'm confused about the need for diodes or switches. I see places advertising their solution for the 2021 Wrangler including diodes or CoolTech which includes a switch.
So how are folks wiring up the 2021 Wrangler? Are diodes or a switch required?
Thanks.
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Wayfarer
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02/22/21 09:00am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Surge protector and water filters
I actually like the Southwire Surge Guard. It has a lifetime warranty like the Progressive. It also gives you English error codes. unlike the Progressive E-1 type codes that you have to look up to see what they mean. Also I like that the Southwire has an optional wireless remote sensor that you can mount in the RV and see the status of the power such as volts/ amps/cycles and the error codes. I had the Progressive unit before but feel like they are a little behind the times with their user interface. Both companies make excellent products and stand behind them. Here is a good video comparing the two.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qTMpc9aTa0
Edited to update the link.
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Wayfarer
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02/16/21 04:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Surge protector and water filters
I believe this is one case where you get what you pay for. To me, this is probably the most important item you need to buy for the RV. Progressive Industries and Southwire Surge Guard both make excellent products. You are probably looking at around $250. Expensive but well worth it. RV parks are notorious for having bad electrical hookups. The good ones will also protect you from under/over-voltage situations as well as miswired campground boxes and surges.
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Wayfarer
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02/16/21 11:47am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 4 down dinghy towing
Look here.
https://www.motorhome.com/download-dinghy-guides/
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Wayfarer
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12/25/20 05:37pm |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: determining pay load capacity
Yes, 2744 is your capacity. The general rule of thumb is to look at the gross vehicle weight of the RV, not the empty weight, of the RV you are looking at and take 25% of that. That would be the pin weight that would count against your truck capacity. So a 10000 lb x .25 equals 2500 lbs. That only leaves you 244 lbs for your hitch, passenger, dog, etc. I believe 2744 already includes a full tank of gas and a 150 lb driver on a 2015 model. Most 5th wheel hitches will be in the 150lb range except for the Andersen hitch. You can read up on it. People either hate it or love it. I have always used a B&W hitch which weighs close to 200 lbs. Many folks will tell you to disregard the yellow sticker and look at the rear axle capacity and as long as you don't exceed it or the tire capacity you will be OK. 2744 lbs seems low for an F350 with a gas motor.
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Wayfarer
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12/24/20 01:57pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Wayfarer
The big three are:
Ingrams in Montgomery, AL
https://www.ingramrvcenter.com/inventory?manufacturer=tiffin-motorhomes
Sherman in Sherman, MS
https://www.shermanrv.com/default.asp?page=xNewInventory&s=Brand&d=D#page=xNewInventory&make=tiffin%20motorhomes
Davis in Memphis, TN
https://www.davismotorhomes.com/manufacturer/tiffin/
They will send you a build sheet that you select the options you want and then they will give you a quote. Expect a 3+ month wait.
I just ordered one from Ingrams. Great experience. Ask for Stan Foster.
Tom
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Wayfarer
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11/29/20 07:59pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Buying used from Dealership and trading in our C
If I am not mistaken when you trade in an RV you only pay sales tax on the difference between the new trailer price and the trade value. If you sell your current RV and then use that money as a payment on the new RV you will be paying tax on the whole value of your new RV. Depending on the values involved this could be a factor.
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Wayfarer
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11/14/20 07:49am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: settle an arguement
The first thing is to look inside the driver's door for a yellow sticker. The sticker will tell how many pounds your truck can tow. For 5th wheels the formula for weight that the truck carries is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating(GVWR) of the RV time 20%. So if the 10000 lbs is the GVWR, not empty weight (UVW), then you would plan for 2000 lbs on the truck. I would think your truck should have over 3000 lbs of capacity. You have to allow for the weight of the 5th wheel hitch, passenger, and any other things that you carry in the truck. Normally an F-350 gas truck can handle much more than a 10000 lb RV as far as weight goes. Now if you will be happy with how well the truck will pull the trailer (power wise) is another conversation.
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Wayfarer
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11/12/20 11:57am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 50 Amp service question
50 amps units actually have two 50 amp circuits so in reality you have 100 amps of current split across two separate circuits in you RV. I would guess each AC unit is on a separate circuit in your RV. If you truly have a 50 amp hookup to your camper then you will not have a problem.
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Wayfarer
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09/25/20 04:14pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Need advise on which new truck - 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton?
This is confusing. Do you mean a 3500 might have to be registered as commercial? What 6001 lbs are you referring to? Both 2500 and 3500 have a GVWR well above 6000 lb. Are you talking about rear axle rating? Even some 2500 have axles ratings over 6000 lbs.
An another note...
Depending on what state you live in, the 2500 might have to be registered as commercial.
In New York over 6001 lbs (which is almost every 2500) , it does, and it's causing me to reconsider buying the 2500 I'm looking at. I have to travel Parkways. In NY you can not go on Parkways with commercial vehicles.
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Wayfarer
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09/12/20 01:00pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Toy Hauler Axle Ratings
Interesting. The current Grand Design RV in your weight range are 3-axle. They have a 17000 lb TH with 7K axles. I've looked at Road Warriors and others and anything above 17K is 3-axles. Your pin weight is 22%. With the 8K axles you still have almost 1000 lbs in "margin". That is much better than the 560 lbs on the trailer I used as an example. I wish dealers would put 8K axles on the larger 2-axle RVs now.
First, I think you will find the pin weight on a loaded TH will be much higher than 20%. My GD 380TH 2 axle actual weight is 19,400lbs with a pin weight of 4,250lbs. That means the 2 8k axles are carrying 15,150 lbs. They have done so just fine for 6 yrs and 52,000 miles.
I have only been involved with RV ownership for those 6 years, but have never seen anyone post that an axle has failed. I’m sure it can happen....I’ve just not seen it. YMMV.
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Wayfarer
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09/09/20 08:19am |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Toy Hauler Axle Ratings
I'm not really sure I understand your concern. Are you thinking you'll overload the trailer and exceed the GVWR? OTOH, if you do hit the GVWR, you most likely will be over on an axle because both axles rarely weigh exactly the same, so one could be light and one heavy. I have a triple axle and I have a difference of over 500 lbs. between a couple tires.
I am concerned about overloading the axles as you described. I feel there is not enough margin with 7K axles and 16.8K GVWR or even a little less than the GVWR.
Tom
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Wayfarer
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09/08/20 07:32pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Toy Hauler Axle Ratings
It's 13,800 (UVW) minus 2,785 (pin weight). That leaves you with over 5,000 for payload.
You never tow the RV at the UVW. I always assume the GVWR when doing calculations.
Tom
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Wayfarer
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09/08/20 07:28pm |
Toy Haulers
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Toy Hauler Axle Ratings
Looking at getting a toy hauler. When looking at axle weights on 2-axle trailers I am concerned about the numbers. For example, looking at a Grand Design 351M, the GVWR is 16,800 lbs. Assuming a 20% hitch weight that would be 3360 lbs. 16,800 - 3360 = 13440 lbs on the axles. Two 7000 lb axles equal 14000 lbs. 14,000 - 13,440 = 560 lbs "margin" left on the two axles. What if you load the trailer to max but end up with less than 20% hitch weight. This just seems like the toy hauler is marginal for 7000 lb axles. This is true not just for the Grand Design but for other two axle trailers I have looked at.
This has got me looking at 3-axle tailer though I really don't want a 41 foot hauler. Most 3-axle trailers have a 20,000 GVWR so the 3-axles (7000 lbs each) alone could carry the weight and still have a 1000 lb "margin" not even counting the hitch weight.
Am I over looking something here? I know you could upgrade to 8K axles but the manufactures seem OK with 7K axles.
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Wayfarer
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09/08/20 05:17pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Ram Factory Brake Controller
Good point on the hard button which I had already thought about. My wife likes the heated seats. I believe on the 12 inch screen you have to use the screen to turn them on/off. My current Ram has hard buttons.
I am waiting on the 2021 GMC and Ford to see what they offer. From what I have read there may not be much change. I did read where GMC might update the technology some. I would like to have wireless Apple Car Play which I have read GMC will have in 2021.
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Wayfarer
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08/23/20 03:35pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Ram Factory Brake Controller
Thanks. I'll take a look at TDR.
I have to admit I sure like the interior of the Ram with the 12 inch screen.
Quite a few complaints about issues with the 12 inch etch a sketch on the TDR site. I have the 8.4 without the aux switches, so have many hard buttons to control things without have to concentrate on a screen and scroll around to find something.
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Wayfarer
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08/23/20 03:28pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Ram Factory Brake Controller
Thanks Jerry. I only wish I could lock mine up. A red light changed on me rather quicky the other day and I had a hard time stopping. I was not traveling fast but felt as though the trailer brakes were not working as well as they should. I could certainly feel the RV pushing the truck. It was a little bit unnerving.
I have checked the connections. I actually redid the connections at the wheels so I think they are good.
It may seem silly but a good brake controller is one of my main considerations when I upgrade my truck to a 2021 model (if they ever come out). I am not brand loyal to any particular truck but am considering a Ford or GMC because of my experience with the Ram IBC. I have to admit I sure like the interior of the Ram with the 12 inch screen.
I think many times, it is not the controllers fault, but rather the trailer wiring being too light duty, or bad connections. Having said that, I know the earlier Ram IBC had some issues, and many just changed over to aftermarket. I've used a half dozen different brake controllers, most working quite well. I have to say my Ford IBC is the best by far! My owners manual says set at 6 of 10 to start, adjust from there. At six, grabbing the manual lever at 25 mph, lock the wheels on pavement, even concrete (tires squeal). I set to 5 when lightly loaded, and 5.5 when heavy loaded. The brakes are perfect with truck, at any speed. At lower speed 30-40, I can easily stop truck/trailer, just using the slide bar of IBC only.
I think Ram has improved on their IBC, but I have no personal experience.
Jerry
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Wayfarer
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08/22/20 09:18am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Ram Factory Brake Controller
Understand but most instructions tell you to adjust the controller until the brakes lock up then back off the setting. My point being is people are capable of locking the wheels while I and other Ram owners can not. I have my controller maxed out and do not feel like I am getting adequate braking.
Breaks shouldn't lock up on the trailor. Think about it, your driving and lock the breaks at say 50 mph. Your tv would go out of control. They are ment to slow the trailor not stop the TV.
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Wayfarer
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08/22/20 08:27am |
Tow Vehicles
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