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 > Your search for posts made by 'atsrmf' found 31 matches.

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RE: transmission cooler

Google Derale 13960. I installed one of these in my Class A, it works perfectly. The thermostat is set at 180, so over cooling isn't an issue. I placed it in series with the factory radiator cooler just before the return to the transmission (after the radiator). Installation is easy, you need to run a 12 volt feed, the thermostat grounds the circuit.
atsrmf 11/03/19 08:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Motorhome Crashes Into Las Vegas Casino

No wonder California elects losers like Gavin Newsom. This is just another nut case from that state!
atsrmf 11/02/19 08:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need help with 1986 Ford starting harness color codes

Not in 1986
atsrmf 09/28/19 07:45pm Class A Motorhomes
Need help with 1986 Ford starting harness color codes

I am installing an aftermarket push button starter in my Class A, and need help in identifying the wiring in the steering column. This is a 1986 Ford, and it probably has an F-350 harness. I have identified the yellow wires as the 12v feed, but need to know which wire is start, ACC, on, ground, etc. I don't want to fry anything by experimenting, and the location of the connection block makes it impossible to take continuity tests. https://photos.app.goo.gl/1fSRUf2yjj6dhy4C7
atsrmf 09/28/19 03:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dead mouse

Nok-Out works
atsrmf 09/26/19 05:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Brake problem

Check the brake booster rod adjustment in the master cylinder. If the rod is too long, even my a millimeter or two, it can cause the brakes to drag. If it is too short, you can get a spongy pedal. Something in the booster or pedal linkage may have cause this clearance to change over time. Verification is easy, and takes a special tool that cost $25. It may be the best money you ever spent!
atsrmf 09/19/19 05:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Safet T Steer or Roadmaster Stabilizer

I installed the Safe T version in my Class A, the difference in effort to keep the vehicle in a straight line was worth every penny! It's like driving a car now.
atsrmf 08/29/19 05:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Florida to Wyoming in my Class A

200 degrees is not hot for a gas or diesel engine, in my opinion. Above that I would slow down for a while, assuming normal driving conditions. Towing is always going to add a few degrees, too.
atsrmf 08/18/19 07:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New engine A/C

It's just nuts and bolts, with only a few special tools required- vacuum pump and gauges. All of the information is online if you want to learn. Attitude and patience are key, without BOTH a project like this should not be attempted. I just don't like handing my hard-earned money to someone who has no vested interest in the outcome.
atsrmf 08/16/19 07:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New engine A/C

R-134a works on higher pressures, and the molecule is smaller, therefore the seal must be better than R-12. ALL R-134a fitting are made for o-rings.
atsrmf 08/11/19 08:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New engine A/C

Note the photo showing the expansion valve. The black box holds the heater core, diverter doors, thermostat, and evap coil. That unit costs about $900, which would double the cost of my repairs. $900 would buy a lot of R-12 (or beer), so I could not justify the expense.
atsrmf 08/11/19 12:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New engine A/C

R-134 rings are green and can be used with either refrigerant. R-12 rings are black and can only be used with R-12. As far as I know, black o-rings aren't made anymore. The o-ring acts as the seal, or gasket, in the fitting. Tightening the fitting does not improve the seal. Flare fittings depend on 2 metal surfaces mating to make the seal, therefore the connection has to be tight. This makes it more prone to leakage. R-134a works on higher pressures, and the molecule is smaller, therefore the seal must be better than R-12. ALL R-134a fitting are made for o-rings.
atsrmf 08/11/19 12:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New engine A/C

Olfarmer- I did this myself because I have no confidence in most technicians today. No one would have taken the time or dedication to do it right, and either way it would have cost $thousands more, I have about $850 invested. With the money I saved I could afford a mistake or two, fortunately I didn't make any, and now I have a vacuum pump for future use. There's enough information at my fingertips that I can learn anything that I want. I also took a class in HVAC in college, that helped.
atsrmf 08/11/19 10:59am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New engine A/C

The condenser, hoses, compressor, and filter/dryer all had R-134a fittings, which are compatible with R-12. Only the evaporator retained the R-12 fittings. You cannot use R-134a in an application where there are R-12 fittings, or it WILL leak.
atsrmf 08/11/19 10:51am Class A Motorhomes
New engine A/C

I could never get the engine A/C in my 1987 El Capitan to work right. It would cycle too much despite being charged, and didn't put out cold enough air. My solution? Take everything out except for the evaporator and start over. https://i.imgur.com/NX6PrTol.jpg This is the original ugly, inefficient R-12 system. I had previously installed the auxiliary fan. https://i.imgur.com/x2lddLwl.jpg First thing was to get the fan out of the way to get at the condenser and hoses. https://i.imgur.com/75RZdYOl.jpg All the essential parts are removed, time to get busy and install the new. I kept the OEM evaporator because it would have been next to impossible to remove it without replacing too many more parts. I flushed it out with a quart of A/C solvent instead. By keeping the evaporator I could not convert to R-134a without using adapters and risking a leak. Plus, R-134a is too difficult to charge correctly and get the right amount of oil in. https://i.imgur.com/cmNO7lAl.jpg I bought the biggest R-134a parallel flow condenser that I could, which is much more efficient that the OEM serpentine tube style. https://i.imgur.com/VT71pS6l.jpg New R-12 compressor. This was a lot of fun to replace, I had to remove the left front tire and splash panel to gain access. https://i.imgur.com/RaIHXgul.jpg New condenser in place. While I was at it, I drilled out all of the radiator mount tack welds and replaced with bolts. Now if I ever have to pull the radiator I remove 6 bolts and it will drop right out. Before I would have had to remove the condenser to gain access, there was no way I ever wanted to do that again! https://i.imgur.com/sen0zKul.jpg New filter/dryer and 2 of the new hoses. https://i.imgur.com/UJEiFRpl.jpg New expansion valve. I cleaned everything up and insulated the suction line later on. https://i.imgur.com/OPnowX0l.jpg Pulling vacuum. At first it would not hold, and I discovered that one of the fittings at the expansion valve was not centered correctly. The rest of the fittings were R-134a with an o-ring, I could not do that with the expansion valve due to the evaporator connections. Afterward it held vacuum perfectly, the needle never moved after an hour. https://i.imgur.com/CDRmCHOl.jpg Charging with the first can of R-12, it took 5 cans total. I had previously added 4 ounces of extra refrigerant oil and UV leak detector. The 150cc of oil in the compressor was not enough for the entire system, around 8 ounces total was recommended. https://i.imgur.com/AfMTKJvl.jpg Everything is back together and working well. I can't imagine what an A/C shop would have charged me to do this! With a motorhome you had better be able to use tools or have a lot of money. I prefer using tools. This is my first attempt to replace an entire A/C system in any vehicle. If I can do it so can you. The engine is a Ford 460, which doesn't slow down at all with the A/C on. Another big obstacle was getting the correct belt and installing it. Whoever owned the RV before I did installed the wrong type of belt (cog), and installed it in such a way that the belt would shred after just 2,000 miles. This is because the tensioner was installed wrong and bent the belt backward, rather than keeping the groove inward. I replace the tensioner bearing while I had it out, one less potential headache prevented for just $18. The engine has 4 belts, all are new and the correct ones.
atsrmf 08/11/19 09:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air conditioner repair near me

Replace the compressor and the belt tensioner bearing at the same time. If you have 134a, the amount of refrigerant and oil must be absolutely correct, it is best to have an automotive specialty shop do the charge.
atsrmf 07/31/19 07:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic roof top ac unit

Junk it and buy new, you won't regret it. Installation is easy.
atsrmf 07/31/19 07:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Southwind Class A Motorhome Pursuit

It reminds me of a chase scene in Terminator!
atsrmf 06/06/19 08:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Southwind Class A Motorhome Pursuit

Watch the right front tire after the first collision. How was she able to handle that rig after that??
atsrmf 06/06/19 08:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: STORAGE IN LOS ANGELES

Store it in the Banning/Coachella Valley area
atsrmf 01/04/19 10:07am Class A Motorhomes
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