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 > Your search for posts made by 'billtex' found 160 matches.

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RE: Arctic Fox 811 short bed

Man, that SB on a MC looks freaky. How far behind the rear axle is COG? Does the front axle un-weight? Maybe the pic is deceptive, but it looks like the camper hangs way back.
billtex 11/22/20 06:49pm Truck Campers
RE: Winterization of hot water heater?

Check your water heater too Not sure why you would need a hot water heater?
billtex 11/21/20 02:14pm Truck Campers
RE: Shopping for a camper...

Our SB camper COG on SB truck was an inch or two behind axle. Our SB camper COG on LB truck is 2” in front of axle and gives us a nice “trunk” in front of the bed. Love it! Couldn’t be happier.
billtex 11/18/20 06:22pm Truck Campers
RE: Shopping for a camper...

Yeah sorry 265 70 18. Billtex mentioned I might want a 295? Those are likely load index 124 = 3535# ea. If you move up to a 295-70-18 load index 129 = 4080# ea. You will have to visit the scales and see if you need to upgrade tires. Wheel rating should be stamped on the inside of the wheel. Some are hard to find. OE steel wheels typically have greater load capacity then aluminum (cast) wheels. Don’t buy anything yet. Wait until you load up and visit the scale. Let us know your weights (front/rear/total) and we can help you figure out next steps. Be safe, Bill
billtex 11/18/20 07:06am Truck Campers
RE: Shopping for a camper...

Guys thanks for the quick response. On that other board I hear crickets. GVWR is 11,500lbs. Tare weight was 7,940lbs. Rear axle does come in at 7,050. Tires are load range E 10 ply sidewalls with a 3525lb max load rating. Think I'm good there. I spent 24 years on the road so I know about weights and why it matters. I've seen pickups bent in half and famlies killed because of negligence. That being said, I think I am over thinking this. I bought this truck used with 53,000 miles on it. The truck was used to pull a gooseneck trailer and still has the BW hitch on it. It only weighs 75lbs, so I left it in there. It actually adds another crossmember between the frame rails. Also it has helper springs installed by previous owner. I think it's time to stop thinking and go for what I want. Agreed. Paralysis by analysis. However, do not exceed tire ratings. When you finally get your rig you may find you are very close or over on your tires. You’d be surprised how heavy these things actually are after you load up. Be safe-TC’s are great!
billtex 11/16/20 11:33am Truck Campers
RE: Escape Hatch Condensation

Open the hatch a crack.
billtex 11/16/20 11:30am Truck Campers
RE: Shopping for a camper...

The 2015 GM 3500 SRW should have a 7050 rawr which is good for around 3500 lbs. Actual axle weights will tell him what he has to work with. Agree with dealers. The truck will be fine up to its 7050 RAWR. Above that and tires/wheels will need to be upgraded. The axle is a AAM 11.5" and good for around 10800 lbs so. Our last truck was a GM SB diesel and we carry a much heavier camper than you are looking at. You will likely need 295 tires with 129 LI. With a little work, you should be fine.
billtex 11/16/20 05:49am Truck Campers
RE: Winter tire recommendations

Subaru
billtex 11/12/20 08:18am Truck Campers
RE: Adding XM antenna to avoid camper overhang

Nice. Just a reminder that steel is needed for magnets to work; late model Fords will not work so well. Also, I understand the Ford factory shark fin antenna is dual duty for Sirius and GPS. Right. The new Fords have 2 antenna (antenni?) . Still have not found a solution. FWIW; our fiberglass Eagle Cap is no different than our Aluminum sided Adventurer was. They are both capable of locking signal...
billtex 11/10/20 03:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Adding XM antenna to avoid camper overhang

Thanks for posting. On our last GM truck that FAKRA connection was behind the glove box.
billtex 11/10/20 04:34am Truck Campers
RE: New Member and Future Truck Camper Owner

OK...good to know. I am not a ram fan but there have been many posts here regarding ram mega cab with sticker in glove box that states “ no TC”, Apparently due to COG behind axle. Perhaps that is 2500 only. As always, a trip to the scales will tell all. Be safe. Bill
billtex 11/07/20 05:41pm Truck Campers
RE: New Member and Future Truck Camper Owner

Host makes a multi-slide model for your SB DRW. Lance, Eagle Cap, Arctic Fox have single-slide short bed models. That mega cab has a VERY short bed. I wouldn’t be putting anything too heavy behind the rear axle. He’ll be doing the Carolina squat!
billtex 11/07/20 09:20am Truck Campers
RE: Time to Develop a Solution for Scissor Stairs (Bigfoots)

Hay Rob, guess you did not look at my BF to realize my porch is what you need. Mine is 18" but you could do it less. Simple bracing from the rear jack brackets. Here is the build thread showing what Reddog1 and I did years ago. I did get the Glow Steps from Torquelift. A big difference in rigidity. https://i.imgur.com/EYD9CM5l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/9sJERovl.jpg https://www.rv.net/forum/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25135064.cfm Jim Our solution is similar except I was able to mount the Glo-steps directly under the door frame. Note; I retained the OE two step and I leave it in place (folded up when under way). In the event we unload the TC we can use the OE setup. This setup works well for us and gives us a lot of flexibility depending on slope, etc Edit; Let’s see if this works https://i.imgur.com/WgC9FwJl.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/WgC9FwJl.jpg Bill
billtex 11/06/20 06:26pm Truck Campers
RE: Ford 7.3 gas engine

I don't think that my wife would ride in it without full air suspension though. Or at least air ride seats. Da fawk are you hauling your TC with a Kenworth?
billtex 11/06/20 06:09pm Truck Campers
RE: New Member and Future Truck Camper Owner

Welcome...and yeah...ouch. Should have stopped here b4 you got that truck. That (very) short bed is going to place your COG well behind axle. Not a good way to start TC’ing. Hate to rain on your parade, but a TT may be a better option for that truck. Be safe.
billtex 11/05/20 06:32pm Truck Campers
RE: Ford 7.3 gas engine

I am running a new F350 gasser with 6.2l and ten speed. (The 7.3 gassers were very difficult to find this spring...). Having said that, we couldn’t be more pleased. Have completed a full season now of hauling TC, towing boat, towing Airstream and the gasser has been great. The ten speed trannys are a game changer for gassers. Max we tow is ~ 12,000 lbs. Prior truck was diesel. Don’t miss diesel AT ALL. In fact, rather relieved not to be running diesel any longer. Times change, and trucks have too. Go drive the new F350’s. You’ll buy one.
billtex 11/04/20 01:17pm Truck Campers
RE: Stop gap suspension advice

Ah yes, many more suspension stories out there. I’ve looked all over various forums (fora) and discovered huge variations and disagreement. Some people love airbags, others hate them. Same with sway bars, stable loads, Timbrens, helper springs, etc... I have now heard or read polar opposite opinions on each of these and more. As a motorcyclist, if you can’t have/afford a completely dialed in suspension you at least want predictable suspension. You want the feedback to be giving you a consistent message. Right now this is what I’m aiming for with my truck and camper. I’ll get there. But it looks like a process of trial and error. So be it. What I like about the SL are they optimize the OE suspension. They are not an added piece of suspension. The result has been a nice firm ride with no bouncing (air bags!) and not bottom out (timbrens!). Very predictable, firm, easy, inexpensive, nothing to fail, 100% stock ride unladen...obviously I am pleased with SL. Quite honestly, I fawked up my last truck with all the suspension mods (unbearable when unladen). I went minimalist this time. And it works much better. My 0.02. Bill
billtex 11/01/20 05:55pm Truck Campers
RE: Stop gap suspension advice

What are you running for air pressure in the front & rear tires? Are the tires load Range E? F? G? A tire with a firm sidewall makes a big difference in side to side sway. As others have said, some of it is a learning experience, especially when entering and leaving parking lots. You generally want to do it as square as possible, if you are at an angle one of the front tires will go over any dip or bump first, starting the camper rocking, then when the rear tire go through it one at a time, it really gets to rock & rolling. Scott 60lbs front, 80lbs rear. Load range E, 20” tires. The primary issue is kind of a skittish feeling, not a roll so much as a sudden dipping to the outside of the curve — like it dips then catches. We drove the camper home 1200 miles on the stock springs. There was some sway and roll, but no big deal. After the new springs were added it feels different as I describe above. I think you answered your own question. NL are not very heavy and should be well within 1 ton stock suspension. OE shocks should be fine...can’t believe they are worn already. “Adjustable” shocks are useless in snow country. They won’t be adjustable for long. Of all the suspension mods I have done (many!) sway bar was the most useless. Made no difference IMO. Go back to your OE suspension and put on a few miles. Then re-evealuate. Yep. I’m going to remove the springs and give it another go. And yes, our camper will not exceed our payload. In fact, I have unbolted some weight from our camper, so we have even more room for gear if we want. I’m guessing we are at about 2600 lbs dry. Ford adds a sway bar with their Camper Package. Our truck did not come with a sway bar. Truck camper forums are stuffed full of threads on the virtues of sway bars. You are only the second person to tell me to not get a sway bar. The other guy told me to get air bags instead. So...since you mentioned it, what suspension mods have you done that were worthwhile? It only took me ~ 20 years to figure out. My approach to a 3/4 ton truck would be different than a 1 ton truck. I would always suggest purchasing the 1 ton if you are buying a truck. If you already have one and want to work with what you have, that is a different story. I have used; airbags (never again-not a good solution for TC’s), suspersprings (good if you have a 3/4 ton and need to add over load springs), sway bar (did nothing for me, and I used the big fat after market one...) lower stable loads (this would be my first choice. Utilizes OE springs with no effect on unladen ride), upper bump stop extensions (Upper SL’s-$$$, or energy suspension-same thing-less $). Upper bump stops only if you have a 1 ton, most 3/4 tons don’t. Also will not effect unladen ride. In case you can’t tell, I did not want to change unladen ride, so that approach is important to me. Products that maximize your OE suspension and do not add a lot of unsprung weight IMO are the best approach. That is my suspension story. Many more out there...
billtex 11/01/20 01:49pm Truck Campers
RE: Time to Develop a Solution for Scissor Stairs (Bigfoots)

If the angle is too steep, sounds like you need to add a step. FWIW; the Glo Steps are an improvement over other brands we have owned. More stable, wider...
billtex 11/01/20 01:37pm Truck Campers
RE: Stop gap suspension advice

What are you running for air pressure in the front & rear tires? Are the tires load Range E? F? G? A tire with a firm sidewall makes a big difference in side to side sway. As others have said, some of it is a learning experience, especially when entering and leaving parking lots. You generally want to do it as square as possible, if you are at an angle one of the front tires will go over any dip or bump first, starting the camper rocking, then when the rear tire go through it one at a time, it really gets to rock & rolling. Scott 60lbs front, 80lbs rear. Load range E, 20” tires. The primary issue is kind of a skittish feeling, not a roll so much as a sudden dipping to the outside of the curve — like it dips then catches. We drove the camper home 1200 miles on the stock springs. There was some sway and roll, but no big deal. After the new springs were added it feels different as I describe above. I think you answered your own question. NL are not very heavy and should be well within 1 ton stock suspension. OE shocks should be fine...can’t believe they are worn already. “Adjustable” shocks are useless in snow country. They won’t be adjustable for long. Of all the suspension mods I have done (many!) sway bar was the most useless. Made no difference IMO. Go back to your OE suspension and put on a few miles. Then re-evealuate.
billtex 10/30/20 08:35pm Truck Campers
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