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 > Your search for posts made by 'bob_nestor' found 67 matches.

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RE: PRICE DROPS coming on new GM small diesels

Something to throw out. Depending upon Nov election results, CAFE numbers may go up. This diesel will give GM better numbers vs gas models. With a cost of $1000, that's maybe 40-50,000 miles if driving at most to pay for that option . Unlike the class 2hd, and 3 diesels. Just throwing a possiblity out. Marty Meeting CAFE was my initial thought when I saw this post. Since GM and Ford dropped their higher MPG vehicles when they decided to stop making cars, they must be having a harder time meeting the CAFE guidelines without running into steep fines. Offering the higher MPG diesel engines might reduce their profits, but that is probably offset by better CAFE numbers and lower fines.
bob_nestor 09/21/20 11:35am Tow Vehicles
RE: Battle Born Lithium

Well if their 250AH is priced anything like their 100AH it will be around $1250 to $1500 per battery. I can sure buy a lot of lead acid batteries for what a couple or three of the lithium will cost. You would have to be a hard core boondocker for them to pay for themselves. It's all about life-cycle cost. When you factor in the life span of the Lithium-Ion vs the lead acid the cost comes out almost the same. (Also helps to factor in the power available for use - generally a smaller Ah Lithium-Ion will give the same usable power as a higher Ah lead acid.) However, if you not keeping your RV long enough to amortize the cost of the Lithium-Ion it becomes a moot point.
bob_nestor 09/19/20 02:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Dish Network receiver question

One option with Dish that I don't think Direct really offered is DishAnywhere. With the right setup at home that has as internet connection, you can "sling" all your Dish channels to where you happen to be in your RV - as long as you have a internet connection there as well. It doesn't cost anything and it will even sling local channels you might be receiving at home with an OTA antenna. I've use this setup in my RV for some time now without any problem.
bob_nestor 09/19/20 06:20am Technology Corner
RE: Hymer - Servicing in Ontario

Whoever you find, make sure they have some experience working on Hymer or at least are knowledgeable with German technology. German engineers are prone to over-engineer the **** out of everything they get involved with, which sometimes makes it difficult for others to decode and work on. I own a Sprinter based RV - when it's running it's great, but when it breaks you need a German trained tech, a priest and a chicken to offer in sacrifice (plus deep pockets).
bob_nestor 09/18/20 05:24pm General RVing Issues
RE: Border closure extended

Sort of brings to mind that song, "Stop the world and let me off".
bob_nestor 09/18/20 10:37am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: 5G cell phones, need to purchase?

Agree with above. 4G range is measured in miles. 5G range is measured in feet. The costs of installing 5G cell towers to get good coverage is going to limit it to cities for the time being. Go out of town and it will be 4G, probably for a long while. Yeah, don't waste money on 5G cell phones. Invest instead in the the companies installing cell towers. They're busier than one-armed paper hangers trying to build out for 5G. It's a shame that the old company Metrocell here in N. Texas didn't survive until now. They were placing repeaters on most light poles and a lot of that equipment is still there. At the time they were in business one could drive almost anywhere in the Metroplex with a strong signal that never dropped.
bob_nestor 09/17/20 07:08pm Technology Corner
RE: Stairs not working

Did u check the magnets on the screen door and/or front door. Sometimes they are located on the door frame. If they broke or fell off that could be the problem. That's typical for the case where the steps won't retract when the door is closed. But if the steps won't extend when the door is opened it's most likely some other issue since the open door will break the "closed door" circuit informing the controller to extend the steps. A friend had this "steps won't extend" issue on his Class A. We discovered that if I banged on the motor a bit with a rock, they'd work. Most likely cause was a flat spot on the motor armature which he then replaced fixing the problem. The motor used by Kwikee is a Ford electric window motor as I recall.
bob_nestor 09/17/20 03:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class C Pros and Cons

Thank you everyone. I’ll check the insurance rates. I have another question, when buying used, how old do you suggest buying or not buying? What do you look for lower mileage and older or higher mileage and newer? We will likely spend $45K tops. hank you Insurance in Michigan may have changed a lot since I lived there, but back then rates were highly dependent on where you lived, where the vehicle was parked, your age, marital status, driving record, etc. And back then it was a so called "no fault" insurance state, so you basically had to pay for all the idiots who didn't carry insurance, didn't care how they drove or what they hit, etc, etc. But on topic, I now own a Class C having moved up from Class B's. More room inside, but a bit harder to find parking spots. The smaller Class B's I owned were a bit easier to drive and maneuver and if I were to replace my current Class C I'd look hard at what was available in Class B's again.
bob_nestor 09/15/20 06:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 12 volt Refrigerators

I had nothing but problems for 20 years with the OEM refrigerator. I finally threw it out and put a small house 120v fridge in. So much nicer since we are always have full hook up. We leave it closed until we get to where we are camping. Comparing apples to oranges. Up until very recently all RV refrigerators have been absorption type, not compressor type. Home refrigerators have almost all been compressor type up until a few years ago. They were "old" style compressors that were either on at max cooling or off. (There were absorption type refrigerators made for household use years ago. As a kid it used to be my task to refill the kerosene tank on ours monthly.) Recent energy efficiency needs have made most home refrigerators inverter/compressor type which regulate the power needed to maintain temps and therefore CAN be much more energy efficient. In the last year both Dometic and Norcold have introduced inverter compressor type refrigerators for RVs. Prior to that is was very difficult to find them for RVs, although there was a company in Australia making them, they weren't being imported to the US. The 10 cu ft Norcold says it uses about 5amp, and from what I can tell the Dometic of the same size uses double that. There's not enough real world data on use in RVs to tell how they really stand up though, but it looks very promising for the future in the RV world. If they hold up and really operate on the stated power draws they'd work very well for dry camping with solar. I do have an inverter/compressor "ice chest" that I've used for a couple of years in my RV. It has operated flawlessly and can freeze anything rock solid and keep it there with very little power draw. BTW, the inverter/compressors used is sometimes referred to as Danfoss which is probably the company that did the original engineering. Most of the Danfoss units also appear to be manufactured in Japan.
bob_nestor 09/05/20 07:12am Travel Trailers
RE: Is there a correct battery voltage chart?

Flooded, AGM and lithium will be different. And you really can't measure SOC on a Lithium using voltage.
bob_nestor 08/26/20 09:04am Tech Issues
RE: Are all new RVs built this bad or is it just mine?

new rv,s should come with a three year warrenty, after all they spend the first two years sitting in the dealers lot waiting on repairs. Or maybe dealers need a different model for selling RVs. Something like a lease-purchase plan where you only pay the monthly lease for those months the RV is in your possession and after the warranty period expires you have the option to purchase the unit. But the other big problem with RV warranties that needs to be addressed by the dealers and manufacturers is what is covered. The RV industry needs a bumper-to-bumper single warranty much like what you get on a new car or truck so you're not having to shuffle between 15 different warranties and manufacturers to get things fixed on your new RV. And manufacturers need to streamline the process for dealers so a dealer isn't left holding onto the unit while it waits for authorization from the manufacturer to fix something under warranty.
bob_nestor 08/23/20 06:02am General RVing Issues
RE: Adventure Rv.Net

I've only ordered one thing from them. It was shipped in a box with no packing material and when it arrived it was non-functional. Contacted them and they asked for photos which I sent, then they told me it was my problem and I'd have to deal directly with the manufacturer. Luckily I'd purchased with my Amex card so I reported the issue with them and got a refund. Would never again consider buying anything from Adventure RV.net.
bob_nestor 08/21/20 01:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Surge Guard Overdose

Overkill in my opinion, but if I had a choice I'd have gone with the Progressive Industries one rather than the Surge Guard one.
bob_nestor 08/16/20 07:19am Good Sam Club
RE: Who's owned an Isata 5 based on the Ram 5500 chassis?

The alternator in those isn't great, and they sometimes have electrical issues caused by the up-fitter because everything gets attached to the the batteries. They don't have high-amp upfitter connection points like Ford does. But... this really comes down to the care taken by the upfitter. This is one of the problems my friends also had with their new 4x4 Isata 5 on the Ram 5500. While at the dealers waiting for coach repairs the chassis electronics somehow went "bad" to the point that the key fob wouldn't open the doors and the engine couldn't be started. It had to be towed to a Ram truck dealer where they argued about it being covered under warranty. That dealer eventually gave up working on it and it was towed to a second Ram truck dealer who fixed the problem. Apparently FCA's position was that it wasn't a chassis warranty issue because the uplifter had relocated some electronic control box on the chassis. The problem though turned out to be simple and was just a single pin in a connector that was misaligned. BTW, the RV went into the dealer again after our last camping trip early last month for more repairs and as of yesterday is still sitting there.
bob_nestor 08/16/20 06:39am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 50 amp cord storage ideas?

50 amp cords can be stiff in the cold weather, mine is tightly coiled and is not removable so it stays in the genset outlet(no transfer switch) I dry camp most of the time but when I do hook up I keep the coils in place when hooked up then recoil the same way. Coils are 10-12 ins in dia. They do make extreme cold weather electric cords that remain very flexible even in temps as low as -40. The Oil Industry uses them in Arctic operations. They are expensive, but can be found.
bob_nestor 08/15/20 01:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: Who's owned an Isata 5 based on the Ram 5500 chassis?

I don't own one but have some RVing friends (here in North Texas) who sold their Class A diesel pusher and ordered a new 2020 Isata 5 based on the Ram 5500. They took delivery a little over a year ago from the dealer south of the DFW Metroplex. They've had nothing but problems with the dealer, the Isata 5, the Dodge and the manufacturer. It has spent almost as much time on the dealer's lot waiting for authorization for repairs as they've had it in their hands for camping trips. Electrical issues, water leak issues, water heater issues, propane issues, slide issues, craftsmanship problems with cabinets and trim, chassis electrical issues, stove problems, refrigerator problems to name a few. I've told them a number of times to skip the dealer and the warranty and park it in my backyard and we'll work on fixing everything together. They were planning on keeping it for at least 5 years, but they're already looking for a replacement. I'm sure they'd make you a deal on the one they have if you're interested.
bob_nestor 08/13/20 06:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Totaled vehicles...sometimes surprising.

Insurance companies are not stupid. If it was totaled it was in their best financial interest. They have a pretty simple formula, something like if the cost of repairs plus the salvage value exceeds the average price the vehicle could sell for when fixed, it's considered totaled. Once they tag a vehicle as totaled it gets attached to the VIN in the government's databases. That makes it difficult to license and insure it later. Trying to get a clean title after that requires a lot of work and jumping thru hoops. But it can be a good hobby or business for someone who is handy mechanically. Ran into a guy in Alaska who was buying totaled RVs in the Lower 48, driving them to Alaska and rebuilding them in his shop over the long winters. To bad his mechanical and carpentry skills weren't quite up to snuff though. LOL
bob_nestor 08/10/20 02:40pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Installing Metal Plate for Antenna

I had to replace the flexible solar panels on my RV and found the originals were glued down with Dicor. Took me a couple of days to scrape them off the roof so I used Dicor to glue down the new ones. Based on my experience with Dicor I'd say it will hold that 18"x18" aluminum plate down in a gale force wind. Although when I installed my cell phone booster antenna (a WeBoost X Drive) I mounted the small plate/mounting bracket to my rooftop AC frame.
bob_nestor 08/10/20 11:04am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Measuring battery condition

It depends on the type of battery, and few methods work for all types of batteries. You can't measure SOC with any accuracy using a voltage measurement on a Lithium-Ion battery. You can't measure SOC using specific gravity on a sealed battery. But if you start with what you know is a fully charged battery and use a permanently attached coulometer to measure the power in and power out, it will give you a pretty good idea of your battery's SOC at any point in time.
bob_nestor 07/19/20 09:42am Tech Issues
RE: Transfer switch popping every 15 seconds

Transfer switches have been known for the individual wire connections coming loose. Make sure that NOTHING electrical is connected and then take the cover off of the transfer switch and tighten all of the connectors. This may solve your problem. I'd also check the contact switches insidw the transfer switch. Normally a transfer switch is wired such that the default position is to prefer shore power and the contact switches inside are held in that position with springs. But if the contacts have a build-up of patina or they're pitted from arcing they might not make good contact. When this happens the junction can heat up and the switch could open. I'd also check to make sure the springs are still in good shape.
bob_nestor 07/18/20 09:17am Class A Motorhomes
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