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 > Your search for posts made by 'bobbolotune' found 9 matches.

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RE: Torklift tie down maintenance

Even if you use Rustoleum or a similar product designed for rusty surfaces, I would still do the best surface prep that is feasible. You will get longer paint life if you start with bare metal or mostly bare metal. Certainly get rid of any heavy, flaky rust. Makes sense. Thanks, I will do this. Also just to rough up the old paint before painting over it.
bobbolotune 08/07/21 07:52pm Truck Campers
RE: Torklift tie down maintenance

I’m the OP. Lots of great advice here, thanks! I am glad I asked because some products have been pointed out that I was not aware of. Also that my question about over sanding weakening the part was answered (not to worry about it). Someone recommended “Rustoleum Rust Converter”. From google searches the Rustoleum product seems to be called “Rust Reformer” not “Rust Converter”. There is also a product VHT Rust Convertor which has good reviews on Amazon. Maybe that is what the responses talking about rust converter meant? I also found POR-15. But from this website: Scroll down a little and it is a 4 step process of degreaser, metal prep, then the POR-15, then paint. That is a lot of work. But maybe just slop on the POR-15 is good enough for tie downs? Multiple good options here. It may come down to which I find on the shelf at Home Depot. I am leaning toward the Rustoleum Rust Reformer or VHT Rust Convertor because it is simple spray on. Then the instructions say to paint over it but that can again be just simple spray paint.
bobbolotune 08/07/21 08:15am Truck Campers
RE: Torklift tie down maintenance

How are stainless steel Fastguns rusting? I'm the OP. It is the (steel) tie downs that are rusting, not the fastguns.
bobbolotune 08/07/21 07:56am Truck Campers
Torklift tie down maintenance

My 6 year old Torklift tie downs are in sad shape. The paint (or probably actually it is powder coat) is falling off so that there is now a lot of exposed and rusting metal. So I need to paint them or something. To prep, I started by scraping them with a wire brush and some emery cloth. That is helping to remove the chipping paint and some surface rust. But it is not taking all of the rust off down to bare metal. I think it would need to be sanded with a power tool versus hand scraping to accomplish that. But I don’t want to start sanding off metal. That means less metal left which can hurt the strength of tie down. Besides it would be a lot of work all that grinding. So I am thinking I will hand brush with a wire brush plus some light emery cloth. Then I will need to paint over some rust. Is it ok to do that? Or maybe this isn't’ necessary. Maybe it doesn’t really matter if the tie downs rust. For example, many of the metal parts under the truck are as rusted as the tie downs. Maybe there is so much metal on these parts that rust will never deteriorate the part to the point of failure. However the tie downs were originally a painted part so I suppose I should paint them. Then my next question is what to paint them with. The only thing I know of is rustoleum. Or is there something better? So my questions are 1) how much prep should I do or can I paint over some rust, 2) what to paint the tie downs with, 3) or maybe rust on tie downs doesn’t really matter (except for how it looks) and I could defer this job since I am currently busy preparing other things for a 2 month trip. I know that these are very basic questions but I don’t have experience with this topic.
bobbolotune 08/06/21 11:25am Truck Campers
RE: Problem with U-Haul refill. Time replace my propane tanks?

I’m the OP. I took another look at the “ding” on the tank that U-Haul complained about. I think it would more properly be described as chipped paint than a dent or damage. Then it rusted a little where it chipped. There are small impressions less than the size of the head of a pin. Maybe it was set down on a rock at some point. The lesson learned might be to inspect the tanks after each camping trip and use some touch up paint on any chipped paint. However, the U-Haul website says “If a propane tank is uncertified, damaged... excessive rust or ***has been painted*** violates national propane gas rules and policies and will not be refilled.”. So it is unclear if touch up paint will get you grief when trying to refill. I have gotten tanks from cylinder exchange for the BBQ in vastly worse shape than these tanks. Tanks with paint over rust then the paint chips so the tank is covered in rust. (I am surprised that some responses said they use cylinder exchange. I have always assumed that I should use tanks that I have owned since new so that I know they have been carefully handled. Which can be a pain because propane refill can be harder to find than exchange. Maybe for a trailer where the tanks are outside, but in my truck camper I sleep literally a few feet from the propane tanks so I am hesitant to trust propane exchange.) I am sure that my tanks are ok. On the other hand, I looked it up and the local U-Haul sells new tanks for $35, so for $70 I can have two new tanks and not worry about it. I’ll probably do that. Thank you for the help! I was getting nowhere with google searches about this topic.
bobbolotune 07/13/21 03:08am Tech Issues
Problem with U-Haul refill. Time replace my propane tanks?

My truck camper has 20 lb upright removable propane tanks. There are a few dings on the tanks with some minor rust in the ding. I needed propane while in Las Vegas and found a local U-Haul and she said that she shouldn’t fill it because of the ding. But she filled it anyway because she knew it would become an argument if she didn’t. I saw the same thing on the U-Haul website that they won’t fill tanks with surface damage or if flaws have been painted over. Of course I can (and probably should) sand and paint over the dings, but that won’t help for U-Haul. I have spent hours on google searches trying to understand if I need to replace these tanks. With no luck because it keeps popping up other topics. One thing that did pop up (and causes problems in the searches) is that the horizontal permanently installed tanks are much thicker so some rust isn’t a problem. But the 20 lb upright removable propane tanks are thinner, and it is unclear if U-Haul is being overly cautious or if a few dings actually are a problem. Seems a new tank is around $30 each, plus I would need to find a place that knows how to purge the new tank. Also I am not clear if tanks for BBQs from a local store are good enough for RVs, or if you want a better quality. I doubt if it is necessary to replace the tanks but it is a problem if I drive through a city (and city traffic) to a propane fill place and they refuse to fill the tank. On the interstate I fill up at Pilot / Flying J and they don’t question it. But off the interstate sometimes U-Haul is the easiest (or only) local option for tank refill, and if they give me a hard time that is a problem. The tanks are 5 years old with a few dings. Is it time to replace the tanks?
bobbolotune 07/12/21 02:55am Tech Issues
RE: How to boost charge AGM batteries in storage?

I am the OP. I think that I finally have this figured out. Things went bad when I called Lifeline and he recommended using a Noco Genius charger, same as someone who posted, but Lifeline told me to get the Gen1 model. That is a waterproof model for permanent install in a boat, and it has no buttons or options. Also that is the one I said in my original post I gave up after reading amazon reviews saying it boiled their AGM battery. A couple responses to this topic talked about the Noco Genius 10. One of those response said that is what Lifeline told them. That is a different model than what was recommended to me. That one has buttons and options. There is still some negative reviews for the Noco Genius 10 on amazon but I am concluding that there is a lot of things that can go wrong with charging batteries so any battery changer will have some negative reviews. That Lifeline recommended it to someone and a couple responses say they use it, it seems my best bet for the way to go. So I am about to place an order for the Noco Genius 10. I found the Noco Genius 10 manual online. It indirectly says that it does boost charge when talking about the lights showing charging status. It says: "Pulsing Green LED - Bulk charge complete, optimizing battery for extended life."... actually it says "bulk" charge but I assume that is what the Lifeline manual is referring to. One of my original questions remains unanswered, which is that the Lifeline manual only talks about boost charging for maintenance when in storage. My questions was if it is ok to also go into the next stages of charging, as it vaguely says in the Noco manual quote above "optimizing battery for extended life". Lifeline said there is a button to press on the Noco to boost charge as their manual recommends. I read the manual and there is no such button. But I am sure the question was answered with a couple responses to my question saying "just hook up a Noco Genius 10 and you will be good". It has to be that actually boost charge is the minimal requirement and going into the later stages of charging won't cause harm. I still say the Lifeline manual is horrible. The performance of these batteries has been outstanding, but the manual assumes understanding the subject. They could have said "any good quality AGM battery changer will do what is needed" in additional to the technical discussion. Some responses seemed to not understand I was talking about maintaining batteries outside of the camper (maybe because I said "in storage" which could mean when the camper is in storage). I took the batteries out for the winter and they are inside, not in the camper. I do have solar but 1) I took the batteries out for the winter, and 2) the camper is in covered storage so won't get sunlight. I am grateful for the help! Thanks for the help. This one really had me confused. Finally I have this resolved after reading that manual quote over and over. In the past I have never had a period between camping trips long enough for the batteries to discharge to the 12.5 volts when the boost charge is needed. But with covid the camper has been in storage (and the batteries inside) for... it's actually (hard to believe) 1 1/2 years now, and finally the batteries have drained to 12.5 volts so I need to boost them. Although now I am concerned that the manual says to boost charge every 90 days *or* at 12.5 volts. I now realize that could be interpreted as whichever happens first or interpreted as whichever happens last. I assumed it meant I was ok as long as the batteries stay above 12.5 which I have been checking regularly. I hope I have not killed the batteries by leaving them for 1.5 years even though they were above 12.5 volts.
bobbolotune 04/30/21 04:51am Tech Issues
How to boost charge AGM batteries in storage?

The manual for my Lifeline 100 Amp Hour Deep Cycle AGM 12 volt batteries says this: "While in storage, batteries should be boost charged every 90 days or when open circuit voltage drops to 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery. Boost charge batteries using a constant voltage charger set to 14.4 to 15.0 volts for a 12 volt battery. The boost charge should be applied until the charging current falls below 0.5 percent of the battery's 20 hour rated capacity (0.5 amps for a 100 Ah battery)." I don't understand this at all. What is a boost charge? What is a constant voltage charger? How do I measure when the charging current falls below 0.5 percent? So I tried calling the battery technical support, but it didn't help. He said several things. He said a cheap battery charger from Walmart might not be able to get up to the required 14.4 to 15.0 volts. He recommended a specific charger and said there is a boost charge button. He said just press that button and it will do what is needed. But then I looked up the recommended charger and there is no boost charge button. Rather, it is one of these fully automatic battery chargers with no buttons at all. Also when I got to the 5th review on Amazon saying that this charger overcharged and boiled their AGM batteries I decided to believe it and stay away from this specific charger. So where do I get a charger with "constant voltage boost charge" capability? Well, he also said that boost charge is just the first stage of a 3 stage charger. So does that mean I can just get any 3 stage charger and it will boost charge the batteries, then harmlessly let it go into the other 2 stages? That actually there isn't any special charger needed? Also, that the manual says the boost charge should be applied until the charging current falls below 0.5 percent. He said that only high end chargers will say the charging current. Including the specific charger he recommended doesn't have this feature, so he said don't worry about that. I suppose because a smart charger knows when to cut off. I am still completely lost about what I need to do. Do I need a special charger or will any charger that supports AGM batteries do what is needed? Most battery chargers are completely automatic, so will it automatically do what I need? Maybe the battery manual quote above is only confusing words (saying to use a constant voltage charger set to specific volts) where actually any battery charger will do what is needed? If someone could even recommend a specific charger, maybe something available on Amazon, that would be greatly appreciated. There are so many battery chargers around it is hard to pick a specific one. My needs are minimal, only to boost charge the batteries while in storage once every 90 days at most, so a low end charger should be enough... if it has the features that are required (and does not have a reputation for boiling AGM batteries). I am completely lost and hoping someone can help. Thanks!
bobbolotune 04/28/21 04:27am Tech Issues
RE: Anyone heard of a Combo AC/DC Air conditioner?

It concerns me leaving a dog in the camper with the A/C running, even if you have shore power. What if the A/C fails, or there is a shore power outage? Then the dog is locked in a camper with the windows closed and no A/C. I would rather leave him in the camper with a window open and the fantastic fan running. Then if the fan failed there would still at least be ventilation. Unless it is really hot the fantastic fan is enough. If it is too hot for that it's just too bad I can't leave him in the camper.
bobbolotune 04/28/21 04:07am Truck Campers
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