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 > Your search for posts made by 'bpounds' found 369 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: shower acces panel on cougar 5er

No access panel on my Cougar. Different model, but similar year. The faucet is surface mounted and comes out from the shower stall side.
bpounds 08/16/19 09:04am Fifth-Wheels
RE: How High???

I do know, because I measured. And so that I don't forget, I put this on the trailer. So I see it every time I tow, in my mirror, or while hitching. width=640
bpounds 08/14/19 03:19pm General RVing Issues
RE: Mat rant

...When your RV is on a grass site, the grass under it gets no sunlight and little to no water. Does the grass die under your RV? Good point I think. My opinion is that it is the heat that kills the grass, not the lack of sunlight or water. In summer, a rug or tarp can kill grass pretty fast in direct sunlight. Grass will turn yellow from lack of sun in a few days, but it won't be dead. Me? I don't carry anything more than a small door mat. But I don't recall ever having camped where they grew grass on the sites, and especially not where they were proud of their grass. Is that even camping?
bpounds 08/13/19 04:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Another Newbie Question about Brands

Less than about 28' you really would be better suited in a pull-behind travel trailer. Why do you say that? I was always told that a fifth wheeler makes for a safer towing experience. Of course, this is when I was working and hanging with co-workers, none of us having actually towed a travel trailer of fifth wheeler. Mainly because the choices offered in less than 28' are few. And those that there are, are of the Lite or HT variety, intended for the half ton truck market. My Cougar is the Lite model, but I still think it is best pulled with a 3/4 ton truck. Nothing wrong with a lite model, and it fits us well, but it is built of lighter materials and physically smaller dimensions. Nice as a vacation unit, but not really built to live in full time. For the price of a 28' Lite fiver you could purchase a really nicely built pull-behind. I still prefer my fiver, due to the tall ceiling (not as tall as a full size unit) and for the superior towing performance and ease of hitching. If I never pull a spring bar up again, that will suit me just fine.
bpounds 08/13/19 02:25pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Another Newbie Question about Brands

Everyone here is shy about recommending a brand, because we've learned they all suck more than they should. And, as soon as we do recommend a brand, the next guy says he would buy anything other than that one. I'm mostly not shy about anything. So I will say I like the Cougar in the smaller sizes. Mine is 28'-9" overall. waiting...waiting...waiting... You'll have more choices if you get closer to the 30' size or a little more. Less than about 28' you really would be better suited in a pull-behind travel trailer.
bpounds 08/13/19 12:25pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Light switch

Not going to have much luck trying to call Fleetwood. First thing I would do is pull the switch and see what wires I'm dealing with. Then try to find where they go.
bpounds 08/13/19 12:13pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Yet another great mapping resource -- NFS topo PDFs

I also use Avenza, and it does work on my PC with Win 10. That's not real useful, since my PC doesn't have a GPS, but on the other hand if you want to print a map the PC can do that easily. The beauty of Avenza for me though is that it uses the GPS to show me where I am on the map, and it doesn't need to be connected to the network once you've got the map. The major complaint I have with Avenza is that if you are not within the boundaries of the map you are looking at, it will not show you anything to reference what direction or distance you are from that map. Takes a little planning in advance before you can make use of it. What is outstanding about Avenza for me as a boondocker is using it with BLM maps. Makes it easy to see when you're in a dispersed camping area.
bpounds 08/08/19 04:10pm Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: RV Ovens

Couple other things that should help... Turn your biscuits upside down to bake. Put more gravy on top. Lots more. :)
bpounds 08/07/19 03:20pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Please help me identify 5th wheel towing issue.

Yeah, get your actual weights and see what they tell you. As for water, kind of depends on where your tank is. Mine is all the way to the rear, so filling mine lightens my pin. And I still tow fine, with or without a full tank. Also, take a look at your trucks springs. Sometimes you have an overload spring. Sorry, I don't know Chevy very well. But some trucks with just the right amount of load/sag, will bounce off of their overload leaf. Lastly, don't underestimate the importance of good quality shock absorbers on the truck. Mine get Bilstein 4600's as soon as the truck hits my driveway.
bpounds 08/06/19 03:29pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: RV Ovens

Yep. + whatever on the pizza stone. Buffers and equalizes the heat. The heat is too concentrated in a small oven without that stone. Prove it to yourself by getting an unglazed clay tile from any home center. They do the job too, but we broke a couple from the bouncing while towing. For a long time I continued to use the last broken one, and just arranged the pieces each time we setup. Finally spent a couple sawbucks on an actual round pizza stone and it seems to be indestructible. Get a little hanging analog temperature gauge to hang on the rack, to confirm your actual temps. Then practice, which is the most rewarding part of this.
bpounds 08/06/19 03:20pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Please help me identify 5th wheel towing issue.

You gave values of 12.5k# and 2,100# pin. Are those the dry weights from the manufacturers brochure, or did you actually weight your rig. Assuming those are your weights while towing, you are very light on pin weight. And I think the fact that it is a problem while angled up a hill, supports my theory. Experiment with increasing your pin weight and see if that helps. Your numbers are a 17% pin weight. Your goal should be more like 25%. Or at worst 20%.
bpounds 08/06/19 03:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: proper hook up procedure?

...had the driver get in and back the truck up against the pin... You touched on another reason to chock. I also have one of those hitches with the Chinese finger design, and if you aren't pushing rearward on the pin it will fight you when releasing. Actually took me a few trips to figure that out on my own. Now I often travel alone, so I've learned to chock, put the truck in reverse, and get out and release the jaws, then jump back in the cab. Not something you would want to do without chocks in place. I've witnessed people hammering on their release lever, apparently not having learned that lesson.
bpounds 08/06/19 01:30pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: proper hook up procedure?

:h I have had a fifth wheel parked in the pole barn for storage for over 18 years now on a level cement floor without chocks. Why would I be chocking that thing up? I don't chock here at home on my driveway storage spot. Never had any issue with it moving when I hitch up. I guess you took "always chock" a little too literally. For the last couple of years that hasn't been exactly true. I have a 3 x 4 block of wood that I leave sitting on my driveway. It serves as my target when I come back home and park the trailer. I back up until I hit that block and I know I've got the thing sitting exactly where I want it. I guess that acts as half a chock, but it isn't there for that purpose.
bpounds 08/06/19 11:56am Fifth-Wheels
RE: proper hook up procedure?

The problem I have with a lot of chocks from HF and the like, is that they are sized for big trucks and are too steep to work properly with typical RV trailer sized tire. The typical truck tire will be over 40" diameter, and the typical RV trailer tire will be closer to 30". It makes the angle all wrong for effectively wedging our smaller tires. It would behoove some of you to actually test pulling against your chocks and see how they work. A good chock should work on loose dirt. Personally, I make my own out of scrap lumber and have tested them to be sure they work.
bpounds 08/05/19 02:32pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Whoever said you can't support the camper by the frame?

I wouldn't do exactly like those pics show in California long term. I wouldn't worry about it while camping for a couple weeks. That would be worth the risk. Yes, out here we think about things like earth shaking.
bpounds 07/31/19 11:35am General RVing Issues
RE: Battery Question??

I think that is what I'm gonna do (un-hook when not in use)... Just to be clear about what others wrote above, you need to disconnect the batteries if you're going to do that. Isolate the battery bank. If you don't, parasitic draw will ruin your battery in a few weeks. Personally I'm in the camp that says stay connected to shore power all the time, if an outlet is convenient to your storage site. If not, install and use a disconnect, and be sure it disconnects all loads. ...Never had any charging issues and while my WFCO converter isn't the best I'm told it's not the worst. I'm guessing when it leaks on top it's possibly a bit over-heated or over-charging. If I was to go with a Progressive Dynamics converter would this possibly eliminate the possible over-charging?? My experience with WFCO converters is that it is very unlikely one is over-charging your battery. Just the opposite, they rarely will go into boost mode at all, even though they supposedly have that mode. Far more likely that you overfilled, or spilled. Progressive Dynamics makes a far better converter, no question about that, and it will give you a proper boost mode and a better charge. But if the WFCO is working for you, and especially if you don't camp off-grid much, it might not be worth it to you to upgrade.
bpounds 07/30/19 10:21am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Cleaning black streaks

Rain gutter extensions help a lot.
bpounds 07/27/19 08:47am Travel Trailers
RE: Can a 5th wheel be backed into a loading dock?

Every dock ramp I've seen has at least some level portion at the bottom next to the dock. Would need more info about the dock ramp and your fiver to be totally sure by doing the math, but my best guess is you won't have an issue. The trick is going to be to run your landing gear out as far as you can before you drop the telescoping legs. Because you will need all of that travel to drop the nose down for leveling. Hitching and unhitching won't be a problem if you do that. Also, unless you must run the fridge, you don't have to be level for storage. You can also use ramping blocks under the wheels if necessary. On Edit, didn't realize we were talking about an indoor dock.
bpounds 07/26/19 11:16am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Convert Reese Slider to Fixed

When I started the post I was just trying to find out if it really was a 4 bolt conversion. Which it appears to be. Some interesting inputs to think about. So here's what I came up with As to sell the whole hitch, I might get $100 for it based on others available locally so selling and buying new would be net $300+. Vs $60 to convert Does it take up space? a little more. The left side has the extra handle and the bar from side to side under the hitch. That bar has gotten in the way of putting things in the truck before when not towing. I split the hitch when removing so the weight might not be that different. but the slide unit is poorly balanced. Son is finishing college so I'll be doing solo from now on. probably will go ahead and swap out to fixed. I think you're on the right track, and I was wrong about selling the existing. The numbers don't add up.
bpounds 07/24/19 02:27pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Convert Reese Slider to Fixed

Big question: Why? We have the same hitch that came with our first 5er. It works fine in an 8ft bed even though we don't use the sliding mechanism. Is there something wrong with it? Few reasons I can think of are, the slider base takes up a lot of space, it adds a lot of weight, sometimes they add clunking, and it doesn't cost a lot to change. As someone noted above, the fixed base kit is very reasonably priced.
bpounds 07/23/19 09:21am Fifth-Wheels
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