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 > Your search for posts made by 'burningman' found 48 matches.

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RE: Tailgate support rack

There’s a very simple solution. Cut a 2x10 to fit across left and right into the slots your truck bed already has for that reason. It will do double duty. Put it across the front of your truck bed when the camper is in… that something you should be doing anyway, it helps spread the load across from the camper if you have to do a moderate to hard brake slam. The front walls are very thin and delicate and bend easily. Then when the camper is off, move the board to the slots at the rear of the bed and it becomes your tailgate.
burningman 05/03/22 07:03am Truck Campers
RE: Camper looks like its not level

I’m pretty sure the issue being asked about has nothing to do with the suspension, or the truck sagging.below level. It’s the optical illusion that the camper is actually sagging at the rear IN THE LEVEL TRUCK BED. It’s the illusion the the camper is sagging relative to the truck, not the whole truck sagging relative to the ground. And it’s an illusion. You need to measure it yourself… get a straightedge, board or whatever that reaches left and right across the tops of your bed rails. Measure from it down to the bed floor at the front and at the rear. I’m pretty sure you’ll figure out why the rig looks the way it does. You do not want to put a board under it at the rear, because the camper is built to be supported sitting flat on the floor. You’ll put all the weight and stress right where the board is, which isn’t good.
burningman 05/03/22 06:47am Truck Campers
RE: Tailgate for a truck camper

The only REAL issue is the cables or straps that hold the gate when it’s open usually interfere with the camper because it widens out right behind the truck bed, and/or the camper has holding tanks below the rear overhang area, or a black tank dump port. As for the notion that the gate will be damaged because it isn’t designed to support much weight, how much weight is really on it if you can remove the tailgate and carry the camper without it?!!
burningman 04/24/22 11:26am Truck Campers
RE: Michelin Agilis CrossClimate Tires LT

I had them on my dualliy and liked them enough that I did buy them again recently. They just do what a tire is supposed to do, and don’t give me any issues.
burningman 03/05/22 11:51am Truck Campers
The only real SRW “One Ton” that isn’t really a 3/4 ton

Just for the heck of it, here is the only real one-ton single rear wheel pickup ever made that is NOT just a 3/4 ton with a different sticker on it. The 1973 to 1979 Ford F-350 Super Camper Special. Not just the common “Camper Special” but the Super Camper Special. https://i.imgur.com/wEBPDvYl.jpg These things had a 5355 pound payload. Way more than any new SRW pickup. Notice the set-back rear axle. They had a special bed to fit. They were made to haul big campers, and that set-back rear axle also let the front end take more of the weight. No camper center of gravity issues at all. They came with 12.00 x 16.5 rear tires. They came with frame tie down points, camper power connectors, trans coolers, and a spare tire under a big door on the passenger side of the bed. No crawling under. These were the best single rear wheel camper haulers ever, and the only single rear wheel one-ton pickup that wasn’t just an up-rated 3/4 ton.
burningman 03/01/22 11:05pm Truck Campers
RE: CB Antennas?

There’s no magic antenna that works better than another, it’s all about size. They need to be a quarter wavelength (or half wave or full wave, but that’s huge at 27 MHz). A 1/4 wave CB antenna is 9 feet long. The way shorter antennas are able to tune and resonate like a full 9 foot 1/4 wave is by coiling up the length of it. If you look at a short antenna like a Firestick, you’ll see it’s a fiberglass pole with a wire spiral wrapped up it’s length. That’s called continuous loading. Other short CB antennas have a coil at the base or in the center about halfway up. It looks like a cylindrical lump, but there’s a coil of wire making up the rest of the required length of the antenna inside it. That’s “base loaded” or “center loaded”. The coil just allows it to tune and resonate correctly for the frequency it’s being used for. The shorter the antenna, even if it’s loaded correctly, the worse it works. The longer the better. They also need a groundplane. The metal car body they’re mounted on acts as the groundplane. Electrically, it mirrors the antenna to make it behave as if it were a full half-wave antenna. Without it, the radiation pattern is upward toward the sky. It needs the groundplane to lower the pattern so it’s stronger in a more line of sight pattern where it’s more useable. Note, a groundplane isn’t a “ground”, totally different thing. The radiation pattern becomes directional toward the mass of the groundplane. If you mount the antenna at the front of the vehicle, it will be more directional and strong toward the rear of the vehicle, following where the groundplane is. Ideally you’d use a 9 foot whip on the top and center of the vehicle, but obviously that has practical problems. You want it as high as possible, as long as possible and as centrally located as possible, and you compromise down from there as needed. You also need to tune it with an SWR meter. Standing Wave Ratio. That’s the amount of power that just bounces back at the radio rather than efficiently resonating and radiating out from the antenna. Most CB antennas have a set screw and a fine height adjustment to allow this. You want the reading on the SWR meter as low as possible. 1.5 to 1 or less is great.
burningman 03/01/22 09:47pm Truck Campers
RE: CB Antennas?

On our old lance I mounted two 2' firestik antennas on the top of the ladder.. Since they "saw" each other, they used each other as a ground plane. That setup worked very well. A groundplane is an entirely different thing. It’s effect is to lower the radiation pattern from mostly skyward to more line of sight. Two antennas near each other affect the radiation pattern differently, they make it more directional. They really need to be about 9 feet apart, a quarter wavelength. The reason you saw that on trucks in the CB heyday with twin antennas on the mirrors, which are about 8 feet apart, is they make the radiation pattern like a figure-8 as viewed from above. They’re directional to the front and rear, and much less to the sides. The idea was to concentrate the signal up and down the highway and minimize interference from the sides. Your ladder was acting as the groundplane. The reason they works well was how high up they were. You’d probably do better with a single one.
burningman 03/01/22 09:23pm Truck Campers
RE: S&S 8.5 Camper on Ram 2500: Measured weights; advice.

I’d like to point out to the people who keep saying gas trucks have more payload that this truck’s front end weight is LESS when loaded with the camper than when empty. It actually removes some weight from the front end. That extra payload from a lighter engine up front does not increase your real world, useable payload. Yeah, I know, the spec sheet says it does… but that’s not the whole story.
burningman 12/21/21 04:44pm Truck Campers
RE: how much camper can I carry

Jaycocreek is one of the few that understands the realities of pickup truck running gear… he’s exactly right. The limit you’re up against is your rear tires and wheels. You can step up to heavier duty/larger ones but there aren’t many choices unless you go to 19.5s. Lately I’ve seen several big aftermarket pickup wheel rims, with the tires still on them, on the sides of the highway, busted out off of the wheel centers. Your truck isn’t going to break, but the wheels and tires can under too much load.
burningman 11/03/21 09:18am Truck Campers
RE: Putting some glide in the ride….

When sitting in the truck seats you are between the front and rear axles which give the best ride . When in the camper while driving you are close to being directly over the rear axle which will be the roughest ride . Same as on a boat . Yep, and that’s why cabover trucks like the Isuzus really suck to drive! Most are owned by someone other than the guy who drives it…
burningman 11/03/21 09:11am Truck Campers
RE: Does anyone else have a 1988 Lance LS4000 9.4 Squire?

All the parts and appliances are standard, pretty much every camper has all the same gear in it. There’s nothing specific about a 1988 Lance you need to know, just camper info in general.
burningman 10/20/21 07:04pm Truck Campers
RE: Looking for options

Every 3/4 or one-ton pickup out there will haul a 5000 pound camper. It’s all about what your rear tires are good for. Don’t believe camper weight specs, they’re 100% always unrealistically light.
burningman 10/20/21 07:02pm Truck Campers
RE: Never saw this before!

10,000 pounds on four or six tires (1,666 to 2,500 pounds) isn't what any state is concerned with regarding the destruction of pavement. An 18 wheeler at 80,000 pounds is almost 4,500 pounds per tire. It’s not about weight per tire, it’s about weight per inch of tire width. Big-truck psi isn’t really so much. They’re big tires.
burningman 10/20/21 06:53pm Truck Campers
RE: When a redneck wins the lottery....

in the mean time in Texas https://i.imgur.com/dZ4QF1gl.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. Yeah, absolutely NOT Texas. That’s Black Rock Deaert, Nevada. At Burning Man. Mutant Vehicles like that only cruise at 5 MPH on flat level desert. It’s got no COG or payload worries. You should see mine!
burningman 10/15/21 02:30pm Truck Campers
RE: A add-on for the almost blind old guy

It’s amazing the effort people will go to avoid learning how to look in their mirrors! You really don’t need all this junk. If you would just pull way out ahead of the camper, several truck-lengths, get square and back under it while sighting down the jack legs on both sides, making them both the same, you’d slide right under it square and straight every time with ease. Using a roller to force it into position when it isn’t is gonna be stressful to the jack mounts. I wouldn’t use this thing.
burningman 10/03/21 02:21pm Truck Campers
RE: $135k for a very basic camper?

Bigfoot and Northern Lite are the best thing going these days if you want a reasonably well-built camper without trouble and leak prone slide-outs. For the price of a Loki you can get one AND a brand new diesel truck to put it on. And it’s a better camper anyway.
burningman 10/03/21 02:11pm Truck Campers
RE: $135k for a very basic camper?

There’s everything basic about it.
burningman 09/29/21 12:50pm Truck Campers
$135k for a very basic camper?

Have you guys seen this? After seeing the price it looks more like an April fools joke. They seem to act like the idea of a truck camper is revolutionary. Loki camper
burningman 09/29/21 07:14am Truck Campers
RE: The price of new trucks is beyond comprehension!

I’ve got no intention of ever selling my1986 GMC 4x4 crew cab dually. I might put a Cummins diesel in it, although it’s actually lots cheaper to put gas in it than to do the diesel swap or buy a new or late-model truck. It’s cheap and relatively easy to work on and extremely reliable. There just aren’t nearly as many things to go wrong on it. And.... it’s so much better looking! The new ones are SO UGLY!
burningman 09/26/21 10:56am Tow Vehicles
RE: Help for Unreliable combo brake turn signal light on trailer

By the way, if they aren’t LEDs, replace them with LEDs. They’re brighter for a reason many people don’t consider: even if an incandescent bulb was as bright, by the time it’s 12V power goes through a bunch of small-gauge wire and a connector or two, it’s getting pretty weak power. The LED doesn’t need much power and still shines at full brightness. That’s also why you still want to own an incandescent 12V test light for troubleshooting. LED test lights will glow on the faintest current, sometimes misleading you to believe a circuit is good when it isn’t.
burningman 09/02/21 10:47am Tech Issues
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