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RE: Dash AC not cold

Yeah I think the shut off maybe makes it more efficient so I'm not opposed to doing that. I don't know that it helps cooling the motor very much considering the size of the engine and how small that area is under the dash but I think on other cars like small cars or even trucks that can help cool the motor sometimes you're having an overheating problem you can run the heater I think I've done that before. But you're right about the low pressure thing and I think that's actually the major indicator. I have a feeling something's broke loose maybe with that dryer or something and it's plugged up the system in some way. That being said I'm told that 20° from ambient Air temperature is a great drop somebody said something about intake air temperature well let's just say that that is the same as the outside air temperature even though it hasn't been tested once you get some cooling in the cab at your feet let's just assume the temperature is the same I haven't read it but it probably is very close cuz it's blowing out and then you have the whole camper and until you're running the air conditioner in the camper it's probably some pretty warm air going into the intake vents I assume on the floor I don't really know if that's a heating vent or where it intakes exactly but assuming it's on the floor somewhere that's probably at least the same temperature as it is outside. It does cool a little better when the camper temperature is lower running the generator cooling the entire camper. Then you get a cooler sort of feel but a lot of that is because the entire camper is cooler anyway. But if you're supposed to be getting readings like the RV guy said of 35° I just don't believe that I think coming out of that thing during the summer you'll be lucky to see 45° maybe 52 anywhere in the USA down on the lower 48 anyway I don't see 35 I mean unless you're running the air conditioner in the winter Maybe... Maybe 20° drop is the answer if it's 85 outside and it's blowing out at 65 I should be happy but it sounds like it should be cooler than that and I think it should be coming out in the 50s anyway and so therefore that kind of indicates a problem in my opinion. I am going to probably do the diverters to block that the only have to do it one way like one valve to stop it from flowing in or do you have to put it on both sides? Also any comments about the above with the air temperature thing am I misunderstanding that I mean if it's 20° I should be good then there's absolutely nothing wrong but then why the pressure problem I think solve the pressure problem by whatever is causing that and I get better temperature out of the dash.
buystockinfun 08/07/21 11:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

I'm going to take a guess that you're right about the dryer and the beads into the expansion valve. I wonder if I'll replace that myself and then have an AC guy fill it I don't know that I'm qualified to fill the air conditioner myself but then again I don't know that I'm qualified to determine if it's the dryer or not either. Where I live it's very hard to find a good AC guy
buystockinfun 08/06/21 09:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine blew white smoke died then generator

Ya re starting fluid, I won't be using it. This RV place that sold this thing said that you can use it sometimes but the same idiots who didn't go through this and have left me completely stranded the entire trip basically. Drifting off topic slightly but I was wondering how these engines start without glow plugs or something like that maybe it's the heater in the intake? At what temperature do you have to plug the thing in or preheat it in some way before you start it? With glow plugs or whatever D Ram now has in their 6.7 I have no problem starting it in freezing weather. But wondering how this ISX15 starts in cold weather if you're not somewhere where you can plug it in (besides plugging it in with an extension cord and running the generator but then how does the generator start in cold weather does that have glow plugs I don't know that either LOL that one is an Onan 12.5 KW which is basically cummins right).
buystockinfun 08/05/21 09:32pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine blew white smoke died then generator

In my vodka bottle?
buystockinfun 08/05/21 07:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

Are those some kind of special inserts or are they like just something you buy for a tire? In other words did you buy them from an air conditioning place or can just pull one off the shelf of Walmart for example? Thanks
buystockinfun 08/05/21 04:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

Well I'm in a standstill till I get home so I will update everyone when I can get professional eyes on this or dig into it a little more where I'm not on the side of the road..
buystockinfun 08/05/21 04:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine blew white smoke died then generator

These are interesting stories... I put in Clear Diesel fuel and tank cleaner by Power Services as well as Bio Kleen. The instructions say how much to use for shocking it basically. I called the company and they said using extra doesn't help in any you're better off using it for a second treatment. I added it to the tank and then filled up the fuel tank. You're supposed to wait 8 hours and then run it. I had to get moving so I drove 200 Miles with it in it. Doesn't hurt to drive on it they say but it reduces the amount of treatment at least in the tank section that's not got fuel in it anymore so topping it off would treat the whole tank versus 200 miles that say you lose 25 gallons or 15% of the tank therefore you lose the treatment on that portion but still the rest of the tank is being treated the whole time as well as maybe the fuel lines I guess and even the new filter and fuel filter. I did not change the fuel filter because from what I hear the water separator is the first filter even though it's not a true filter apparently the particular matter of this algae get stuck in that filter that's the primary one. I have no doubt the fuel filter is at least somewhat compromised but I was able to get it started and I was not in a position to be able to remove a fuel filter way up under the engine. I was lucky enough to be able to and remove this water separator. Usually there are much tighter but I didn't have a fuel filter and I needed to get down the road. The new separator made the engine run great so I was able to drive it with the fuel filter that was already on it. I might have mentioned I blew out the generator filter this was mainly just a test to see if it would even start and I know using compressed air isn't ideal but it would be okay for a test start anyway I mean even coming recommended or said that I could use starting fluid as long as you didn't use it very much. I will probably never use starting fluid on a diesel engine. Someone told me I could run ATF in the filter but might need to use starting fluid to start it well I'd rather not do that instead I was able to prime the pump with the help of one of the people that was actually on the highway crew working on the one lane road. The reason I didn't change the fuel filter was I just didn't have one and I was stuck in the middle of nowhere. I now have a fuel filter and I purchased an additional fuel filter and several additional water separators. So far I drove that 200 miles and it ran fine on the new water separator. It's my understanding I will probably need to replace a filter again apparently doesn't remove the sludge like chlorine would in a pool but it gets it off the tank surface and then it ends up in the filter still. That kind of contradicts what the company advertisement for one of the products of the two I mentioned says that it allows it to eliminate water and contaminants like sludge without clogging the filter so I don't know how it does that if it doesn't eat it for example but according to that company that sells this stuff I may need to replace the filters which contradicts what they say about not needing to by using it LOL but either way I've got extra filters for when it starts to act stupid. I need to run this tank out and then when I get somewhere for an overnight I will put enough additive for another shock and then fill the tank and then let it sit overnight basically like 8 hours like they say. I have a feeling the other filter had this problem before I bought it I drove 2000 miles before it completely plugged it and it was probably already partially plugged and I didn't know it. The deal are supposedly changed the filter but they lied. At any rate the rate of clogging is probably higher when you put this attitude so I fully anticipate having to replace it again. Is the generator filter I found one that I have not changed yet cuz I haven't had to run it in fact I'm not going to try to run the generator and replace the filter if at all possible until I run a few tanks of this cleaner in because then I may not even need to replace the filter after I put the new one in having just blown it out with compressed air and it working right now. But again I'm not running the generator if I can help it until I burn through a tank or two of the cleaner. As long as I'm staying hooked up at night then maybe I can only waste one filter the one that was already in there and the new one won't be affected. see what happens with all this but I have been able to actually drive it and start the generator and obviously the engine is running on the RV after doing the above so hopefully this helps somebody else with a similar problem.
buystockinfun 08/05/21 04:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine blew white smoke died then generator

Well the gauge worked really well for $2,500 mi and then I drove 350 miles and it still said full so I did check the level and it was probably at one half I'm guessing but maybe more because I found the source of the problem. So I drained the water separator once I found where that was and a bunch of black stuff came out like pepper looking almost only I couldn't tell the texture at the time but it was about the size of that ground pepper that you can grind yourself. There was no water in it I could tell that but basically it's like algae I guess sludge but they call it algae basically. So the dealer where I bought the RV said oops we forgot to change the filters we were in too much of a hurry. I wish they would have changed the filters so God knows you know how long that's been there like that I don't know if it's from the filter or from the tank. So I stuck an awning stick in the 200 gallon roughly diesel tank and black came off on the edge when I scraped the metal awning thing against the inside of the tank nothing came out of the tank unless I scraped it but there was black on there and it wasn't real thick or anything it was almost like an ink pen that leaked and how you would smear that maybe. So in order to get this to drive I actually had a spare water separator filter or whatever they call it in the RV. So I got some Diesel from the road crew nearby and fill the new one up so that it would prime easier. I turn the ignition key on but didn't start it and cycled it after about 30 seconds about five times and what I think was priming the water separator and perhaps the fuel filter. Then I turn the engine over and it started right away. I did not change the fuel filter even though I have a spare one of those that's even harder to get to. So it looks like the tank goes to the water separator then the fuel filter and then the pump and perhaps the filter finally got so clogged that it wouldn't run. That or the fuel level is lower than I think and it was picking up some of that algae from the tank. I don't know for sure but wouldn't the algae be the same in the tank and I'm calling it algae it's sludge or whatever grows there in the diesel tank I guess but wouldn't that still be there no matter the fuel level so cuz it's picking up from the bottom I would assume so whether it's full or half full or one third full I mean I get it when it's got no fuel left that would be bad but it never got anywhere near there it certainly between a third and 2/3. Maybe the perfect storm of sloping down hill in some way affected it with that slope. But clearly the filter had sludge in it and it looked like probably 8% of the fluid was that sludge coming out of the filter so maybe that clogged the filter to the point where it choke the motor out not sure why it belched white smoke when that happened but maybe cuz it was struggling I don't know or it's burning sludge although I get the feeling that the sludge never made it past the water separator and that contributed to perhaps why I think I had more fuel than a half a tank for sure in so many miles of the poor motor was probably starved for fuel the whole time. What tells me it's more the tank than maybe a bad or dirty filter is that the generator did the same thing now I don't know what the odds of that are I mean what would the odds be that the engine would die due to algae at the exact same time the generator would when they're two different filtration systems sucking from the same tank. So perhaps you know maybe everything swallowed a bunch of sludge at that one time the thing is I tried to start the generator and that thing hadn't run in days... So it is a bit of a mystery there was no water and there's sludge but I just can't quite figure out why the generator would die at the exact same time when I tried to start it basically it did the same exact thing. Long story longer I pulled into town about 50 miles later possibly tomorrow getting another filter just so I can have it until I can get the thing home and take care of it when all of a sudden it won't go any faster than about 20 mph. I look down in the transmission says two on the little Allison control board. I thought it was dying from that sludge but as it turns out the transmission was stuck in second gear I guess out of six speeds so I pull up to Walmart where I'm going to try to figure out what the heck's going on and the truck won't go into neutral I put the air brake on and it stops it but as soon as I release that the motorhome starts moving being in second gear. I took the control panel off and unplugged the transmission control maybe trying to reset it I don't know and then I plugged it back in and it still had the same thing a 2. The transmission is an mh4000 Allison 6 speed from about 2006. So I do the diagnostic check for the fluid or whatever for the transmission level and it flashes a code that is 56 which indicates that it needs to be in neutral of course we know it wouldn't go in neutral. So I turn the truck off which I hated to have to do at that moment and then I turned it back on and then the two Ns flashed. I tested the oil level for the transmission and all this Allison stuff refers to the transmission fluid as oil by the way which I think is kind of dumb but I guess it's a form of oil. It said that it was four quarts low. I did find a small dripping leak that would leave the size of a silver dollar after about 5 min of running park somewhere so I can only imagine how much it's leaking while driving that's probably where the four quarts went since my understanding is these things do not burn transmission fluid. It has some special fluid called TransSynd. Apparently you're not supposed to mix dextron 3 with this type of fluid which is a full synthetic I guess some kind of special ****. I probably could because it's already a hundred thousand miles into the 150,000 service interval so I suppose with dexron 3 which goes to 50,000 that would put it at the service interval anyway. But I'm not 100% sure that it doesn't do something else if you combined extra on three with this TransSynd. Of course there's nowhere that sells it so I'm not sure they have Lucas transmission fix cuz there's that little bit of a leak I'm not sure where it's coming from I figure okay what could have hurt with 4 quarts of that so I'm going to call that company tomorrow and see if that **** will work in it if it's next time three anyway and this is something that's supposed to work with everything Lucas oil transfix maybe I'll just use that if I can't find the **** fluid. Anyway that's a whole other problem that showed up and I don't really know if the transmission is going to even work after I do this it went to neutral after I shut it off and it ran perfect all the way up until I got into town and all of a sudden it wouldn't go out a second gear I don't know why so I'm not too sure like it didn't even act up you don't just usually have like a catastrophic transmission failure like that I don't think especially when there's no symptoms and it was working perfectly fine and it was like nothing that even happened I don't know if it's because of the four quarts low maybe it protected itself you can't tell it just has 2 displayed. Back to the fuel problem. So I took the filter off of the Onan 12.5 KW generator which is a Cummins. Of course there's no fuel filter in town for Cummins generators in Cortez Colorado. So I tried to actually make my own filter but I could never find a quarter Inch to like a 5/16 Barb then I could just put an inline fuel filter in there of some kind you know with a 5/16 fuel line couplings etc. So I filtered fresh diesel through it filled both sides and took an air compressor and blew it out at 100 PSI blowing from the engine fuel pump side to these supply side that way I don't force any contaminants into the filtered side. Did that about 15 times filled it up and blew it out then I filled it up one more time reinstalled it and the generator started right up. So who knows I mean that's just both filters to that point at the exact same time and they're generators hardly ever run so you tell me I got no idea like what's going on with that or the transmission honestly I hope it works tomorrow I'll keep you updated I don't I guess I need to post the transmission issue in a separate thread.
buystockinfun 08/04/21 03:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Engine blew white smoke died then generator

No... Noone touched for 200 miles as was. Unless they did it in dark... Unlikely just drove another 100 miles since overnight
buystockinfun 08/03/21 03:43pm Class A Motorhomes
Engine blew white smoke died then generator

Well, everything was running fine with this Cummins ISX15 525hp when we stopped on a grade (3% maybe) for one way traffic. Suddenly the eng idled badly and it blew a bunch of white smoke and died. No temp issues etc. I tried to start the generator and it blew white smoke ran for a few seconds and died. Now neither will start. Only common thing I think is fuel. It's diesel ran a full tank down to 3/4ish no issues. Roadmaster chasis. No sure what's going on. Stick on a hill in the middle of nowhere and completely screwed. Help
buystockinfun 08/03/21 03:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

I'll have to have somebody troubleshoot it probably going to need a new dryer and I guess I'm just going to guess an expansion valve if it has one and then completely flushed and then refilled. I suppose there's a chance that it's either too high or too low on refrigerant but without draining it doing any kind of cleaning that needs to be done however y'all do that and then refilling it. Not going to do all that without testing it in terms of the dryer and stuff first. I assume that's what's a professional would do anyway. Temperatures only getting to about 62° most of the time maybe a little lower on the cooler day and the low side doesn't change at all which doesn't seem from everything I'm hearing to be correct. So probably something wrong. The guy that told me he seen him take 10 lb also said that the dryer if it was going bad would be all froze up and I haven't seen that I haven't seen anything on that dryer at all in terms of moisture. But if everything was good but levels. Wouldn't we see the low side increase or decrease in pressure?
buystockinfun 07/30/21 09:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

This is real hard to do without pictures I mean kind of weird that you can't put pictures on this website very easily most people have pictures like they take that they want to just post rather than like Do I have create a web page to send a picture? There are some caps on the dryer I don't know what they are for... Etc. Pics would be nice to be able to post.
buystockinfun 07/30/21 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

www. Wherevwouldigetaurlforapiconmycomputeriwanttopost. Com
buystockinfun 07/30/21 10:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

Well the condenser is in the front I think with the compressor in the back. The compressor doesn't have the fluid in and as well the refrigerant? I thought that was through the entire system but anyway. I did find the capacity and I did find the dryer which are in the front and I figured out how to attach pictures it's just advanced posting I'll throw in a few pictures of a bunch of parts that I have no idea what they are other than maybe the dryer. Okay maybe not I don't understand why it wants the URL for the picture don't know what that means I thought I could just attach a picture.
buystockinfun 07/30/21 10:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

Lol, I would think that to some extent just like in propane 5 gallon propane tank holds less propane then a 7.5 gallon. I would think the lines would increase the capacity somewhat but probably not double LOL so I get what you're saying. Without ripping the system apart on the highway basically I'm going to have to wait until I get home I guess. I still don't really understand the whole expansion valve thing and somebody was mentioning kind of screen and taking something and cleaning it I don't know if that means the system needs tore apart to do that. I know replacing the dryer and would involve tearing it apart as far as I could tell here the fittings are not removable as I see some places sell like green o-rings but it doesn't appear that this system is removable in terms of those fittings except for whatever that little valve is that looks like a tire valve. I have a feeling the dryer isn't removable either unless it's cut or something from what I can tell everything looks all soldered or welded or whatever you want to call it. I'm pretty sure I'm pretty primed to get ripped off at an AC shop if I'm not careful. On a side note I've never seen the compressor turn off while the engine was running I guess I should check to see if it turns off when the air conditioning knob is on off but it never turned off when I was filling it or whatever I guess maybe because of the pressure on the low side is what it is I don't know so there's a few things here that I don't totally understand. Is there anything I can do with that screen with the closed system? It almost sounded like I could but I don't know then I still have to find the stuff. Thxs
buystockinfun 07/30/21 06:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cruise Control Monaco Executive Roadmaster Chasis

Thanks. The step still operates so that is good. The horn section with the springs fell off today on the stearing wheel. Yeah. Time to try and epoxy the springs somehow so at least it kinda sits in there. Or leave it off and build a button. At least the horn works now all you have to do is touch the connector to the other side. On the bright side you can get to everything that you don't need to get to anyway.
buystockinfun 07/30/21 06:32am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How to find an old post

Hello thanks for the response. And thanks for the link that's awesome both of them to the original post as well. When you say it's broken is it permanently broken or just temporarily broken? Thanks again
buystockinfun 07/26/21 05:08pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Dash AC not cold

Richard, thanks for the information on the compressor I didn't realize that that was the method to figure out the exact type of oil. Probably saw why some oil was added to begin with. Interestingly an RV dealer told me that they've seen systems take up to 10 pounds though I believe Doug said my system should only hold 4 lb. As far as the dryer so you're saying I may need to replace the dryer. I'm supposed to use a wire to replace the dryer or are there fittings that need separated in the system evacuated and all of that? Or maybe you mean to do something with the expansion valve screen. It's my understanding that's all sealed and you would need to replace the expansion valve but is there a way to unclog it or do something with this screen with a small wire? Not sure I completely follow that. When I say needle now I guess I mean is it a valve stem you know like the little valve stem thing inside of a air fill they look the same in the inner tube or your automotive tire as they do inside of those air conditioners the connector for the low and high side. Thanks again so much
buystockinfun 07/26/21 05:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

rgatijnet1, Looks like you and Doug are discussing the same thing I will definitely use this in my initial troubleshooting beyond what I have already done. Thanks so much
buystockinfun 07/26/21 05:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

When the person use the evacuation stuff they blew out a bunch of oil this green stuff replacing the needle so that's why it ended up getting oil in it. So I'm gripping the heater core line in order to restrict the flow so it's not introducing the heat into the system I gather. I hope I didn't use the word Freon but I suspect I probably did I do know the difference but it sure was easier to say than r134a LOL. In the short term I'm going to try to do some of the methods described in a couple of posts and then I think eventually I'm going to evacuate it and do a vacuum test etc.. if I can find a shop that will actually do it that would be fine. Thanks for the information Doug
buystockinfun 07/26/21 04:58pm Class A Motorhomes
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