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 > Your search for posts made by 'colonelcorto' found 13 matches.

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RE: F53 tag axle brakes

I have an IR temp gun, Arch, I just didn't have it handy that time :o
colonelcorto 05/29/19 04:22pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 tag axle brakes

Thanks John and Nick, I will try both of these.
colonelcorto 05/29/19 06:08am Class A Motorhomes
F53 tag axle brakes

I know this is a subject that is beat to death but where do I start on diagnosing my tag axle brakes on my 1996 F53 chassis? We took the motorhome out this weekend and for the first time I towed my car. I live in Indiana and my tow car weighs 2990 lbs(CAT scaled) so I don't a brake system on it. Camping was great but minutes before I arrived back home we had a hard stop. I was actually kind of impressed at how well it stopped but when I got home and started dropping the car I smelled hot brakes. I decided to give each wheel a feel. I reached through the hub cap and felt the back side of the steel wheel. The fronts were both hot, as expected. The drive wheels were fairly warm but not as hot as the front. The driver side tag was warm and the curb side was cold. I believe I have the MORryde tag axle (I'll check tomorrow) and I believe that usually the master cylinder fails. However, since I have some warm brakes on one wheel of the tag that suggests that the master cylinder is not the problem, right? Where should I start diagnosing? MORryde is only a few miles from my house, should I take it by and see if I can talk someone into coming out and taking a look?
colonelcorto 05/28/19 06:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Help! HVAC system not working at all

The AC box is labeled Nippondenso. Update. I traced the hot wire from the blower motor and found a smaller gauge wire with inline fuse spliced into it. I assume this is what engages the AC compressor clutch because when I apply 12 volts to it the clutch engages and the entire system come to life. All of the blower speeds work as well. This makes sense if all of the controls are on the ground side (which I suspected). I’m looking for a fuse I missed or a bad relay - something to energize the 12 volt leg of the blower motor.
colonelcorto 05/23/19 11:50am Class A Motorhomes
Help! HVAC system not working at all

Hello. I have a 96 Fleetwood Southwind on an f53 chassis. I recently pulled my unit out of winter storage (had a couple days of -30s and -40s this year) to repair the inevitable burst water lines and now leaky toilet. To my surprise, I had no HVAC on the way home. None of the fan settings worked and even the A/C light wouldn't illuminate when I pushed the button. I figured it was just a fuse and checked them all, nothing bad. I checked every fuse in the RV fuse box, the under-hood fuse box, and the driver side kick panel. I pulled the HVAC control panel from the dash and started troubleshooting. I also removed the passenger side false wall and exposed the blower motor. When the MH is keyed to "on" I can hear a relay click when I move the blower selector from "off" to the lowest setting and then another click when I move it to "High." to be sure I pulled the blower relay and checked it anyway, it was fine. I also pulled the blower and wired it to a batter, it runs very strong. I pulled the resistor pack an can see no obvious damage, however I'm not getting any conclusive resistance readings across any of the pins. Also, I believe that the resistor pack is on the ground end of the circuit. One of the wires going to the resistor pack matches the negative line of the blower motor. So, I shorted that to ground and tried the controls again...nothing. Here is where things get weird. I pulled the connector from the blower motor and stuck the multi-meter leads into that. "off" reads 0.0 volts, as expected. However, all of the other fan speeds, including "high' read about 12 volts. This reading stays constant until I start manipulating the other HVAC controls. If I change any of the modes the voltage to the motor drops to about 8. when I push the A/C button, it drops to zero. What is going on? I feel like the resistor pack is probably bad but I should still have high speed. Why am I reading voltage at the plug but when I connect the plug to the motor there is nothing? Please help!!
colonelcorto 05/22/19 07:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 vs P30

I have a 96 F53 with tag axle. When I bought it a few years ago it was all over the road. I replaced the rotted out sway bar bushing (some were totally gone) and it’s much better now. I think the rest of the slop is in the steering linkage.
colonelcorto 05/12/19 06:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mystery Electrical box under dash

The switch is on the dash. I know how to use it I just realize the control box would be tied into the ecu.
colonelcorto 05/10/19 03:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mystery Electrical box under dash

I think that's it, MrWizzard. The MH IS equipped with a US Gears underdrive unit. I can't believe I didn't put two and two together.
colonelcorto 05/10/19 10:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Honda stick shift as a toad?

I tow a 95 Honda accord stick shift, tows fine.
colonelcorto 05/09/19 04:10pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Brake booster (hydraulic) and master cylinder (1993 P30)

Please keep this updated. I have an older F53 chassis with scary brakes. I'm starting with having the rotors resurfaced at NAPA, throwing on new pads, and greasing the caliper pins, I might bleed everything while in there as well. I don't have any leaks but the hydro-boost system looks like a PIA. BTW, I have a tag-axle and I think there is a separate brake fluid reservoir in the rear for it.
colonelcorto 05/09/19 04:08pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: MPG for Various Class A Motorhomes

1996 Fleetwood Southwind 35', 460 with full Banks kit (headers, intake, transcommand), US Gears dual range auxiliary trans, 5.13 rear end. 6 - 6.5 MPG @ 60 MPH with generator running, 5.0 MPG through the Rockies.
colonelcorto 05/09/19 03:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mystery Electrical box under dash

okay, the image should be viewable
colonelcorto 05/09/19 03:50pm Class A Motorhomes
Mystery Electrical box under dash

Hello. I have a 96 Southwind and I need help sorting out the electrical under the dash. Please help me identify this device. It appears to be spliced into the Ford ECU and has an after market fuse that is wired into the chassis fuse box. It is labeled M4601-A UNDRIVE
colonelcorto 05/09/19 03:03pm Class A Motorhomes
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