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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 851 matches.

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RE: Dometic A/C and CCC1 Tstat E1 error

E1 means that the COMMUNICATION cable from the wall Tstat to The roof AC control module is open or missing/bad connection. This is the 4 wire cable that looks like a Phone cable. It is NOT a phone cable. It is wired in reverse from a phone cable. Most common problem on a unit more than 1 year old is the Phone type plastic modular connection at the roof AC area is corroded from the humidity from the Upper AC unit. You don't state what year model RV or model roof AC. I ALWAYS replace the RJ11 ends behind the wall tstat and at the roof AC. That removes a possible bad connection. If the upper modular is corroded you have found your problem and replacement is also required. If this does not fix the Intermittant problem then the cable from the wall tstat to the roof will be suspect. Doug PS, IF you have Penguin model AC units, then the odds of corrosion on the connection by the evaporator is almost 100%. Replace all connectors if you have more than 1 roof AC unit.
dougrainer 03/29/20 11:32am Tech Issues
RE: Jayco Precept 35s electricalissue

E05 on your Dimensions by Magnum means that there is less than 11.0 volts while inverting which means the Inverter will not Invert to 120 for your Inverter controlled appliances. You should have a FORD chassis. The Headlight switch may have the roller that increases and decreases the instrument cluster backlighting. IF the roller wheel is rolled to MAX brightness and then you feel a "click" when rolling up, you have engaged the interior dome light indent. Motorhomes do not connect the dome light wiring to the dash switch. They may connect to a light outside by the radiator, but rarely. On Ford Chassis, if the roller wheel is in that indent for a dome light, Ford's use a relay to power the non installed light. That relay uses 12 volt chassis power to engage. THAT will draw a Chassis battery down in a week or 2. Make sure that roller wheel is not in the clicked indent. Doug
dougrainer 03/29/20 11:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: leveling Holiday Rambler Neptune motorhome

I'm having trouble with our LCI on 2009 Monaco Holiday rambler Neptune 37PBQ, when I turn pad on the light stays on for me to engage park brake but the park brake is on and I tried resetting by holding down all arrows but it didn't work , and the auto or manual light will not come on , any suggestions?? All Jack's or up and I can't level . If the chassis Park Brake light is ON but the Jack system states it is NOT on, then the wire from the Chassis park Brake switch is not connected to the LCI system. The wire has come off or has a fault. Doug
dougrainer 03/28/20 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: jacks up or down

Slides and Jacks when stored. NEVER extend Jacks for storage and never leave slide rooms extended in storage. WHY? Because IF they malfunction and will not retract, you are stuck until you get it fixed. There is NO REASON to extend jacks in storage. Even if fulltime, you need to cycle the jacks twice a month, Same for slide rooms. I get calls all the time from customers that have left Jacks or slide rooms extended in storage and they cannot get them to retract. Nothing I can do, until they get the RV in to me. Otherwise they have to call a mobile repair service. Doug
dougrainer 03/26/20 12:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Batteries on of off

Your year Model has an Inverter/Charger. Your Coach battery disconnect does NOT turn the batteries OFF from the Inverter/Charger. While plugged into 120 shore the Inverter/Charger will be trickle charging the coach batteries. Your year model, Monaco may NOT have optioned the Bi directional relay that would also trickle charge the Chassis batteries. Regardless, I would install a battery maintainer on the chassis for the months you plan to store. So, disconnect the Coach battery by the ON/OFF switch and your coach batteries will be charged and maintained. Use the link to see just one type of battery maintainer. Doug
dougrainer 03/24/20 05:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is it normal to cut the roof supports?

You just have to love how these companies stand behind their products. If I was you I would pull that inner skylight down and see what's up in the attic. Maybe you'll get a surprise and the repair is easy and fast. I have no love for FR. BUT, to state this is DUMB. You and the OP and all others on these forums have no idea what has been done to this RV in 7 years. The OP is NOT the original owner and only the original owner has standing for complaints like this when it has no safety issues. The OEM's have to be careful when they respond. The OP may have sent his questions to the wrong department at FR. Regardless, IF FR decides to respond, the OP will have to take his Unit to a FR authorized Service Center and have it evaluated. Which the OP will have to pay for. Until a FR Service center looks at the issue, FR will not do anything. This is true for almost all OEM's. They may give general answers, but nothing that will resolve the issue without a Service Center visit. Doug
dougrainer 03/23/20 06:52am Tech Issues
RE: 120 volt cigarette lighter size outlet Doug
dougrainer 03/22/20 11:42am Tech Issues
RE: 120 volt cigarette lighter size outlet Doug
dougrainer 03/22/20 11:41am Tech Issues
RE: Furrion rv air conditioner, anyone have one yet? Or Attwood?

I have a Atwood AirCommand 13.5 Non Ducted/Non Heat on my trailer. It had a new Dometic on it when we got the trailer in 2015 but it never worked properly so when E Trailer was having a sale I bought one. It was around $700 and I sold the old Dometic to a rv mechanic for $250. AtWood now unfortunately is owned by Dometic and I do not know if they moved production to the states. My unit says Made in Australia on it as well as the function and performance test paperwork. It is very quiet, blows ice cold, throws air 2 to 3 times further than the Dometic did and is small gen friendly. Atwoods are made in the USA per their current info Dometics are made in China RVP/Coleman are made in Wichita, Kansas 1. 13.5 Atwood air volume is 360 CFM (cubic feet/minute) 2. 13.5 Dometic air volume is 350 3. RVP 13.5 is 320 If Dometic follows what they did with Atwood refers, they will discontinue the Atwoods. Until the current slow down in the RV market, BEFORE the corona virus, Dometic and RVP had a hard time supplying enough AC un its to the OEM's. So, it made sense to continue the Atwood AC production. With the RV market slowdown in sales Dometic may discontinue the Atwoods. I have seen lots of companies try to go against RVP and Dometic, including Carrier. NONE could make any headway into the RV OEM sales. Doug
dougrainer 03/22/20 07:37am Tech Issues
RE: Sagging ceiling in holiday rambler next level

I used these to support a sagging ceiling: rosettes On a 13 year old RV , this is the best solution. As to having the Vinyl. That is a vinyl with a foam back. You can purchase rolls of the vinyl/foam back, remove the existing(LOTS of scraping) and then secure the luan backer to the studs with screws and cut and glue the new vinyl/foam to the existing Luan wood backer. They also used to sell the complete 4 by 8 wood/vinyl/foam ceiling panels. I don't know if Monaco still has these. Doug
dougrainer 03/21/20 11:14am Tech Issues
RE: Sagging ceiling in holiday rambler next level

They use liquid nail type adhesive. BUT, that is what secures the wood back panel to the studs. Your year model, do you have fabric type covering? If so, you pull the fabric off and buy new fabric and use spray glue in a can to reinstall. After you remove the fabric you can use counter sunk screws to secure the existing wood backer to the studs. This is labor intensive. Newmar and Monaco years ago paid 4.0 hours PER 4 by 8 ceiling panel to just replace the fabric cover, NOT the complete panel with wood. You have to cut around overhead cabinets and such. Doug
dougrainer 03/21/20 07:09am Tech Issues
RE: Furrion rv air conditioner, anyone have one yet? Or Attwood?

It dawned on me one day. They duct roof airs into the unit. But the operating (noisy)parts of the AC are wide open to the unit via the air return. Ducting the return air would help quiet the noise. They do Duct the return air on some RV's. The MORE you pay for the RV the more likely you get Ducted return. You can easily determine if the RV has ducted return. IF it has the standard 14 by 14 inch square inside ceiling mount, it does not have ducted air return. Doug
dougrainer 03/21/20 07:03am Tech Issues
RE: Need a forum that specializes in RV frige repair (Dometic)

If connecting the element direct to test, leave it connected for 24 hours and see if refer cools correctly. You replaced the Board. Did you use Dometic or Dino? The refer works on LP correctly? Doug You have posted 4 times on this thread. NOT ONCE have you stated the Model and year of Refer. AND, your last post seems to indicate the refer operates and cools correctly? Just not on 120 volt?
dougrainer 03/21/20 06:56am Tech Issues
RE: Bounder with Atwood jacks

The original version had NO replacement parts. You replaced the complete jack when it had a problem. The 2nd generation they added the RPM timer. Same jack, they just added the revolution timer. You can use a 2nd generation in place of a first generation, you just do not connect the Timer and you cannot since the board is different and no wires for the timer. You cannot use a 1st Gen in place of a second due to no timer and the control board will not allow operation with no timer reporting. At one time Atwood came out with replacement motors, as the only replaceable part. All my previous sources do not have jacks or motors. IF you have a Atwood system and you want Jacks on your motorhome, you need to remove the Atwoods and install a HWH or Bigfoot or LCI Hydraulic system. I have NEVER liked electric Motorhome jacks. This goes back 40 years. They always seem to have a malfunction because they are an electric motor. Same for most OEM's. Once the lack of reliability came up after a few years, most OEM's dropped Atwoods in favor of Hydraulics. Doug
dougrainer 03/18/20 05:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

When I see posts like this, how come NOBODY ever questions HOW Jayco connects the wire to the Battery? I am talking about a 30 amp ATC fuse holder with 14 gauge wire pigtails. Kind of like having a 1 inch water line connected to a 1/4 inch hose to the input of your house. Kind of negates the purpose of getting all the power you should require. You need to replace the input fuse system to your battery also. Jayco runs a 12 gauge wire from the positive battery post 2 feet to a 14 gauge 30 amp ATC fuse with the pigtails about 4 inches long in and out. Also, I don't think Jayco runs a dedicated GROUND wire to the Converter. The ground goes from a Chassis frame stud below the Converter area to the Frame. Doug
dougrainer 03/16/20 07:06pm Tech Issues
RE: 2013 Crossroads Sunset Trail TPO Roof

You need to replace the COMPLETE TPO roof. Yes, you can peel the bad section up and replace the decking that is weak. But getting old TPO to adhere back down will be almost impossible. Crossroad roof decking was NOT the normal thickness of standard deck material. The weakness was like that from new. We sold and serviced Crossroads back then. The correct way to fix is to remove the old TPO and redeck/overlay the old deck and then glue down new TPO. Doug
dougrainer 03/16/20 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

They do not care about recharge rates. Never have. The wiring they use will do the job. Doug
dougrainer 03/16/20 12:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Roof top heat pump/furnace issue

I have an older 2006 coach. It uses the 5 button dometic controller to control 3 15K heat pumps and the aquahot furnace. If I want to use the newer 10 button controller, I must purchase 3 new heat pumps and upgrade the furnace controller. The new 10 button controller is incompatible with older dometic interface controllers. Here is a link to the new furnace controller. Newmar discussion areas on other forums discuss this issue. I tried to post a picture of my controller, mounted under a sink, but could not. You are confusing some things. YES, the 5 button controller board will ONLY work with a 5 Button wall tstat. You CANNOT mix any part of the 5 button system with a 10 button system. You only have to upgrade to a 10 button if you purchase NEW Penguin's. The Penguin's come with onboard 10 button control boards. They make a 10 button to 5 button adapter kit board replacement for the new Penguin's. To make the NEW Penguin work with a 5 button tstat. Newmar used a separate Dometic Board in a galvanized Box to utilize operation of the AC/Heat system to come on when NOT in the RV. Like to engage the Genset when you were away and you wanted to have the Roof AC come on when the temp in the RV was too hot. THAT is what that board under the sink is used for. IF you have a separate ON/OFF switch system JUST for your Webasto/Aqua Hot, that must be turned ON to utilize Hydronic heating controlled by the Dometic wall tstat system. Do you have a separate switch system just to turn on the Aqua Hot in your unit? Remember, the OP states he try's to start the Webasto but it fails to ignite. This would NOT be caused by the Dometic system. Remember he states he HAD the Webasto switch ON and the motor ran but did not ignite. Doug
dougrainer 03/16/20 08:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roof top heat pump/furnace issue

There is a dometic controller just for the furnace. Did you upgrade that as well? Explain this statement. The Furnace/Aqua Hot is controlled by the AC/HP control board mounted in the upper AC/HP unit. The OP installed 2 Penguin's. THEY have built in Dometic control boards. Dometic does not build a Furnace ONLY controller. Doug
dougrainer 03/16/20 07:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: dometic 2333 fridge help

Your 2333 should have a BYPASS tstat for the LP operation. What that means is, when the refer reaches the set temp on LP, the flame diminishes to a LOWER flame. This is regulated by the tstat which lowers the LP pressure for a lower flame. When the refer needs to cool, the tstat allows full 11.5 inches LP pressure and the flame gets to its larger stage. So, on the output side of the tstat is NOT 11.5 when on MAX cool the tstat is BAD. Doug I should have stated you should have 11.5 at the INPUT on the tstat and 11.5 output. If you have 11.5 input an NOT 11.5 output the tstat is bad. If you do NOT have 11.5 input, your LP regulator is bad. If your LP regulator requires adjustment, then it is BAD.
dougrainer 03/15/20 06:34pm Tech Issues
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