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RE: Had our catalytic converter stolen

What do you think the VALUE of Electric Car Battery banks are????? Thousands of dollars. Doug I'm thinking you can't remove the battery bank in 10 minuets with a battery powered sawzall. A Tesla battery pack weighs around 1200lb, so an RV pack must be at least 2000 lb if not heavier. I'll be happy to hold the thief's legs in place if he's going to crawl under the battery to cut it loose. I am 66 years old. I am NEVER amazed at the ingenuity of thieves. They ALWAYS find a way to do theft regardless of what Honest people think they can do. Doug
dougrainer 05/18/21 01:25pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Had our catalytic converter stolen

All electric cars will cure this problem but the slime will find something else to steal. What do you think the VALUE of Electric Car Battery banks are????? Thousands of dollars. Doug
dougrainer 05/18/21 10:16am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Wanting to install Ceiling Fan in Bedroom

Just remember, that most RV ceilings have NO studs or metal braces to install a heavier component like a ceiling fan. You usually just have 3/16 luan and styrofoam. AND no 120 or 12 volt wires run unless you tap off a ceiling light 12 volt circuit. Doug
dougrainer 05/18/21 10:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Had our catalytic converter stolen

We had 8 stolen 2 months ago and those were NEW units. So, we went back with OEM Ford Converters to prevent emission warranty problems. Each one was about $1400 plus about $200 labor as we had to have it done at the dealership. Aftermarket will probably be a lot cheaper. Doug
dougrainer 05/18/21 09:04am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold N611L Not Working

OP Here. Couple of Items. 1. He checked there was 12v to the control board with a multimeter. 13.2volts (he's plugged in). 2. He's not getting any cooling running on AC - so that was a red herring. 3. He's not getting any spark at all - I had him try the ground. He tried a couple of different ways, but no joy. 4. On both Gas and AC he's getting 4 blinking Power Light every 3 or so seconds. According to the service manual, it's saying it's the control board. So - if you were going to order a replacement board would you go OEM or Dinosaur for your replacement board? Have we missed anything on the diagnosis process?YES Need to know year Model of RV. I believe the Norcold N611L is older than 2004. 4 Flashes does mean fault in control board, BUT, I am not sure when Norcold incorporated the NO CO fail system in their refers. The NO CO was not in the pre 2000 or so models. So, I would google NO CO Hard reset and see if doing this restores the operation before getting a new board. Doug
dougrainer 05/18/21 07:37am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic fridge not cooling on LP. Just LP.

Yes! Obstructed burner was the culprit. Thanks so much. You stated it was professionally cleaned. ????????????????? So, Burner obstructed or the Orifice? Either way, you did not get a professional cleaning done as these items are done for a LP operational complaint. Doug
dougrainer 05/17/21 05:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold N611L Not Working

Does the shaft of the screwdriver have to be grounded for the spark to jump? No, the spark is "hot" enough to jump. Doug Also, If you can "wiggle" the Piezo tower and it then works or stops, odds are the solder connections for the Piezo tower are loose and you can re-solder on the back of the Board and save the cost of a new board. The piezo tower would come loose from repeated removal of the Ignitor wire to remove the black cover and failure to use a back up to hold the Tower in place when removing the spade terminal. This type thing happens when you have to do a hard reset for a NO CO lock out.
dougrainer 05/17/21 02:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold N611L Not Working

Remove the Ignitor wire from the Piezo tower of the circuit board. Take a long handled screwdriver and hold the metal end about 1/4 inch from the spade of the Ignitor tower. Start a LP gas sequence. IF the spark does not spark, your Board is bad. IF the spark arcs, the Spark electrode is bad, probably has cracked porcelean insulator. Doug
dougrainer 05/17/21 09:02am Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator temp

Dougrainer: As I had stated in a previous response, mine and my two friends bought the same units brand new and had the very same problem from the very first time these refrigerators were put into use BRAND NEW! Attempts to correct the problem through Dometic were futile and costly especially after their response was that their units were performing as designed, as in you're good until 95deg F and that's it you're on your own after that. So, the issue was not that the fridges were old, used and abused, not on level nor looked at by professionals. I have hot wired my fridge on 120vac via my inverter and on shore power and am able to get it down to maybe 35deg F at about 50deg ambient. Doesn't mean much to me because it still climbs above 45-50+ degrees when it's above 95-100 degrees F ambient. No matter how you slice it, the potentially hazardous food will start to spoil under these conditions. The longer the time at such high temps the more bacterial growth you get and the chance that you'll sicker is increased.In the recent past I've replaced the propane gas regulator with a new Marshall unit and used my manometer to adjust the pressure to 11.5 "wc, installed two fans in the rear condenser area, two fans in the freezer and two fans in the refrigerator section. Nothing has helped except that the fins in the refrigerator section don't now freeze up but temps are still too high. I stand by what I posted. Also, ICE on Evap fins will produce HIGHER temps. Ice is an Insulator and will degrade lower compartment cooling, so IF you had Ice on the fins, that is just 1 of your problems. Ice by definition is 32 degrees. The temps in a refer will be 10 degrees warmer than the fins. So Ice means 42 degrees in refer. 35 degree refer temp means the the fins are at 25 degrees. Doug PS. fans inside ANY 2 door refer freezer will NOT do anything. Fans promote air over the evap fins.
dougrainer 05/16/21 10:59am Tech Issues
RE: Forest River 2021 Coachmen Encore - Cruise Control

You purchased in Texas. To use lemon Law you will have to lemon Law in Texas. Send a Certified letter to Ford/RV Dealer/FR detailing your problem. Cruise Control does qualify under lemon Law. Most OEM's do NOT want to have to defend Texas lemon Law cases. They usually lose. The main gist of Texas lemon Law is, SAME complaint/malfunction 3 times and 3 or more attempts to fix the SAME problem, the OEM is on the hook. When you sue Texas Lemon Law, the Chassis(Ford) the RV maker(FR) and the Dealership(probably the largest Motorhome dealer in the USA since you stated Alvarado) are all listed as the defendants. You do NOT want to go lemon Law if you want to keep the motorhome and attempt to get the CC fixed. It can be a LONG drawn out process and IF you use the Motorhome, it diminishes your case. Certified Letters usually do the trick. Doug
dougrainer 05/16/21 08:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: water heater works fine - IF- I leave door open

"The RETURN millivolt signal for flame is NOT that strong and will be disrupted by a slight short to ground." Return signal? Are you saying that the Suburban design uses the spark apparatus as double duty for whether or not the flame lit? If true, that seems dumb. There does not appear to be any damage to the orange wire, looks new. The connection to the lug is shiny and clean. As suggested, I cleaned the burner tube. The air-gas mixture is fixed, not adjustable. --- Are you positive the air mixture is not adjustable? On all RV WHs I've seen, there is a mixture adjustment where the burner tube meets the gas valve. You adjust it by loosening a small screw and twisting it on the tube to open or close the slots in it to add or block air. Whenever I see a statement like this, I ask the question-----How long have you been working on RV Water heaters and/or RV's ? Because you are wrong. Doug PS, I have seen a LOT more RV WH'ers than you(thousands):B Thank you doug for putting me in my place. I have always appreciated the time you take and the expert advice you have given to help others over the years. I was simply trying to help by offering a small suggestion that might possibly have been overlooked. I in no way was trying to compete with you and your expertise. You are even more correct when you state you have seen 1,000s more WHs than I have since I am totally blind and have really never "seen" a single one. All I have done for many years is do virtually all the maintenance and repairs on my own MH and helped a few others find and fix problems with theirs. I have also had to repair things that the professional RV techs either screwed up or outright destroyed on my MH the few times I took it to them for repairs I thought were beyond my capabilities. I am extremely sorry for having tried to help with this issue, since I am obviously ignorant. I always look forward to hearing your advice to others and have learned from it numerous times. Best regards- Mick Sorry, but it REALLY irks me when I see posts such as yours. I did not mean to sound so harsh. The reason is, "some" RVer's think PROfessional RV techs are just cheap oil changers. The RV's and appliances are constantly changing and what YOU think is absolute or standard is just not so. These same type people think if they have a very unusual problem of fix it is automatic that the poster has the exact same problem and fix. Case in point is Circuit boards on Water heaters/Furnaces/Refers/AC units. In the past 15 years, these type parts RARELY fail due to the constant analyzing of failures and updating the Boards to prevent future failures and problems. Dino Boards---Great product, needed 20 to 25 years ago, when they fixed the inherent defects in OEM boards. But, not needed now as the OEM boards have the failure problems of the past fixed and updated. Doug
dougrainer 05/15/21 11:27am Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator temp

Old Biscuit: I agree with your statement concerning proper installation is necessary by rv manufacturers to achieve proper cooling. However, I have checked very carefully the installation requirements and clearances according to my owner's installation instruction and have found them to be spot on. I think I recall that Dometic's specs are set at a maximum of 95degrees F ambient which is the temperature at which my refrigerator can not keep up and the internal temps start rising into and above 40 degrees F. By the way, 37 degrees F is not a bad internal temperature for a refrigerator but not at all optimal because something of a lower temperature without freezing the food will give you more lee way in case ambient temps rise. Higher temps allow the bacteria to multiply faster. I think 35 degrees F is better because it won't freeze the food, gives more leeway in case of a rise in ambient and accounts for inaccuracy of thermometers. For what it's worth, my Dometic and those of my two friends who bought their rvs new, have better results with their refridges running on 120ac than they do on propane gas which is odd. This is after careful inspection and some repair by rv shops with careful guidance from Dometic. The results are 40+ degrees F in the 90+ degrees ambient. Totally unacceptable! I have NEVER had any problems with the 8555 cooling below 40 degrees. Texas Heat from 90 to 105. Lots of my customers have this unit in their B+ motorhomes. If I had a problem, Either a control or Cooling unit was the problem. 120 line voltage and LP pressure is critical for correct cooling. IF you find 120 is "better" than LP, then you have a LP pressure or baffle problem. Also, what is the age of the refer? Has it been run off level enough to degrade performance in hot weather. THIS is the most common cause of periodically running a refer Off level. You think nothing has happened, because it performs, but the TEST is when it gets hot ambient and THEN the refer does NOT perform below 40 degrees. You then blame the lousy refer when it was your fault that it is not performing. If you hot wire the 120 element for 24 hours and it does NOT get below 35 degrees, your CU is toast. Doug
dougrainer 05/12/21 02:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator temp

Model helps but a simple response----Do you have a Tstat adjustment on the eyebrow ON/OFF panel? It will be 1-5. If NOT, you have an Auto temp refer model. Doug
dougrainer 05/12/21 09:54am Tech Issues
RE: Alfa See Ya

Sorry you found out the hard way. Alfa was once the number 1 Diesel motorhome builder in the mid 2000's. But, due to poor construction and other design and quality issues went out of business after a few years. They are NOT a Motorhome for people that cannot repair their own Motorhome. Doug
dougrainer 05/12/21 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alfa basement air service

The outside Condenser coils you can access from the outside with a Garden Hose. The INSIDE Evap coils are harder to get at. Remove the AC filter under the rear bed and see if you can access the Evap there. Are you asking because you have a cooling problem? Doug I do not remember any ALFA having a filter under the bed as that is where the engine is. JimR One of the reasons Alfa went out of business was because the DESIGN of the basement AC system meant that you had inadequate return air from the middle to front of the Motorhomes. WE sold Alfa for just 1 year and dropped the line after numerous Customer complaints of NOT getting the Alfa's below 80 degrees on higher than 90 degree days. This was a known problem to Alfa and Alfa could never engineer a fix. So, the Air filter on the units we sold was indeed in the back under the bed. Doug Doug the air filter is not under the bed. The air filter is in the bedroom area near the bed in the cabinets above or passenger side of the bed. Under the bed is the engine access hatch no air filters. JimR You are correct. There was another brand Motorhome from 20 years ago with basement air that had the filter in the bed compartment. Doug
dougrainer 05/11/21 05:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Converter / Charger Question

1. You do not have an Inverter 2. You have a CONVERTER which is what is in the Pic you posted. 3. Space Heaters are 120 volt, so ANY 12 volt problem will not cause 120 Heaters to malfunction. If the battery 12 volt system is DEAD, your 120 heaters will still work 4. ALL a 12 volt Converter does is take 120 volts ac and converts to 12 volt DC and also sends a charge to your coach batteries 5. Your battery NOT connected to shore power fully charged and after sitting for 1 hour should have a 12.6 or higher voltage with nothing ON in the RV. If you do not have that voltage your batteries are probably bad and need tested. 6. With batteries at 13.0 volts you stated you do NOT have 12 volts in the RV not connected to shore power? If so, that points to a tripped 12 volt circuit Breaker or fuse, BUT, if so, the Converter would not be charging the batteries. Doug
dougrainer 05/11/21 10:06am Tech Issues
RE: Alfa basement air service

The outside Condenser coils you can access from the outside with a Garden Hose. The INSIDE Evap coils are harder to get at. Remove the AC filter under the rear bed and see if you can access the Evap there. Are you asking because you have a cooling problem? Doug I do not remember any ALFA having a filter under the bed as that is where the engine is. JimR One of the reasons Alfa went out of business was because the DESIGN of the basement AC system meant that you had inadequate return air from the middle to front of the Motorhomes. WE sold Alfa for just 1 year and dropped the line after numerous Customer complaints of NOT getting the Alfa's below 80 degrees on higher than 90 degree days. This was a known problem to Alfa and Alfa could never engineer a fix. So, the Air filter on the units we sold was indeed in the back under the bed. Doug
dougrainer 05/11/21 09:57am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alfa basement air service

The outside Condenser coils you can access from the outside with a Garden Hose. The INSIDE Evap coils are harder to get at. Remove the AC filter under the rear bed and see if you can access the Evap there. Are you asking because you have a cooling problem? Doug
dougrainer 05/10/21 03:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1993 Damon Intruder/P30 454 Overheating

Just to confirm what you stated. You state pushing air out. Does that mean the fan is blowing air out the front of the Radiator? If so, THAT is your problem. The air flow comes from the outside front of the Motorhome and is rammed thru by air at 60 mph. The Fan blade PULLS air from the outside in towards the radiator and over the engine block to the rear. If the Fan blade is going the wrong way, there is NO WAY you will get any air THRU the radiator to remove heat from the coolant. Especially at road speeds. The Fan clutch when the temp reaches its preset LOCKS the Fan to spin FASTER to help pull more air thru the radiator. Also, on a Chevy, one bad feature of the fan clutch is, when it does engage, it sounds like your Transmission just down shifted. Doug
dougrainer 05/10/21 12:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Slidout room not working...

Now, you need to use a 12 volt battery(I use a Cordless drill 12 volt battery) and go to the motor and connect to the 2 motor wires to see if the motor does work. Makes no difference Pos or neg to the motor, Doug
dougrainer 05/10/21 11:25am Class A Motorhomes
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