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RE: Fuel tank leaks when we fill it

You just joined. ALWAYS post Year,Brand/Model of RV and Diesel or Gas. This helps to get you good answers. There is nothing really on a diesel to prevent overfilling. The Fuel Gauge has nothing to do with filling. You need to observe if you get a small leak when filling and not just when you reach close to full. It may be as simple as a fill hose loose or cracked from age(where the year info helps on answers). Some tanks and gauges the tank does NOT have to be dropped(diesel) if you have a Monaco or Holiday Rambler, to check hoses and fuel gauge sending unit. Doug
dougrainer 01/23/23 12:21pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Magic Chef Stove identify

Why do you need to know that? Never needed to know after 43 years as an RV Tech. I DO know that residential Magic Chef's used a "series" number. In conjunction with a Model/serial number. Doug
dougrainer 01/21/23 04:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Coleman rooftop a/c

Finally fixed!! After buying a new control board and 2 thermostats it ended up being a $20 temp sensor for the coil which was actually the very first thing i looked at.. i tested both for continuity and neither had it so i ruled it out because 1 unit was working fine. Turns out i needed to ohm it out. The giod one had 11k ohms and the other was 80k ohms.. i swapped them out and then the unit worked.. in hind sight i see why it would let the heat pump come on and not the a/c. 6 hrs of trouble shooting and it was the very first thing i looked at. Oh well hope this helps someone! You said in your first post HP function, the compressor would not come ON. Now you say it worked in HP mode but not in COOL mode. Doug You state TEMP sensor for the coil. Do you mean the FREEZE sensor installed in the evaporator? If so, that part is NOT supplied when replacing a complete upper unit. And yes, that defective part will keep the compressor from running.
dougrainer 01/21/23 10:13am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Need Dometic Door Awning Help

Your manual. VERY small turn adjustments. Doug https://epi.dometic.com/externalassets/dometic-elite-oasis-ii-door-awning-975-_55837.pdf?ref=-1655313268&_gl=1*f5xzym*_ga*MTc0ODY1OTA2OC4xNjczOTE0NDgy*_ga_8HB6BZ1XMT*MTY3MzkxNDQ4Mi4xLjEuMTY3MzkxNDQ4OS4wLjAuMA..
dougrainer 01/16/23 05:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman rooftop a/c

https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-83305191-Room-Sensor/dp/B019QH3QVC/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_w=vyZv9&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=P2HX6PHSZS3JNH10AAEV&pd_rd_wg=XePGw&pd_rd_r=86fca2e0-c465-4410-9407-8b92551a3e5c&pd_rd_i=B019QH3QVC&psc=1 It looks like this and can be brown also. It is usually located in the rear bedroom area on the wall. Some OEM's install on the ceiling, but this old of a RV it is probably on the wall or bottom of a bedroom overhead cabinet. Lack of or a bad sensor would not cause the problem he has. Doug
dougrainer 01/16/23 11:31am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman rooftop a/c

Thanks for all of the replies! Im leaning towards it being the tstat and here is why.. zone 2 is the back unit and if i switch to heat pump neither the compressor or the fan comes on. I am plugged into 50 amp ac now btw. If i go to cool, the fan comes on, no compressor. Also i just fired up my LP furnace and zone 1 seems to work perfect. When i try zone 2 on the gas heat it does nothing. I can tell there must be a separate fan for the rear zone because i have vents down low with no air flow coming out.. any feedback is greatly appreciated At this point, you need to access your upper rear AC/HP control board. Check for loose or burnt wiring. You also need to check for 12 volts TO THE REAR FURNACE. The furnace is a separate appliance that is controlled thru the RVP tstat system. Did you replace the upper units or did a shop replace them? Either way, wiring may have been knocked loose when the upper control board was moved out of the way to replace the unit. You can manually SWAP Zone 1 and Zone 2 at the front upper control board to test tstat operation for the rear HP. This link shows the ZC tstat wiring. Doug https://www.airxcel.com/DesktopModules/RvProduct/Pdf/8330b331_8330b335_thermostat.pdf
dougrainer 01/15/23 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman rooftop a/c

Your system (2005) ENERGY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - SO AMP Intellitec's Smart Energy Management System - 50 AMP (Smart EMS) is designed to be used in RV s equipped with 50 AMP electrical service. The system senses when the coach is connected to a 50 AMP service or operating from the generator and allows simultaneous operations of all the 120 volt loads. When 50 AMP service is not available and the coach is connected to a smaller electrical service, such as 30 or 20 AMP, the system automatically takes control of the loads to practically eliminate circuit breaker tripping. It constantly monitors the total amount of current drawn in the RV and controls the loads, as necessary, to keep the total current to a value less than, or equal to, the available power service. There is no programming necessary and the unit will work with any load within the circuit breaker limits. The Smart EMS automatically "learns" the amount of current drawn by each of the controlled loads as it turns them on and off. In this way, it automatically adapts to differing loads or loads whose current changes with line voltage or temperature. Features: • Limits total current to 30 AMPs. • Minimizes circuit breaker tripping when connected to 20, or 30 AMP service. • Eliminates manual appliance select switches. • Senses current of owner added loads. • Owner selectable 20 AMP operation from remote panel. • Protects air conditioners with two minute restart delay. • "Learns" controlled appliance current draw Click this link for an in depth explanation. https://intellitec.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/53-00894-600-1.pdf
dougrainer 01/14/23 02:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coleman rooftop a/c

When you do not have 50 amp service, just run your Generator to utilize it. Remember, on your year model, the EMS KNOWS if you are NOT ON 50 amp service and will kick out the bedroom Compressor from running. Your wall EMS display should show that. Doug
dougrainer 01/14/23 02:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: burbing fridge

Blockages are as hard as a weld and are attached in the upper coil area and CANNOT be broken loose. So, burping just rearranges the Ammonia temporarily to work a little longer. It works but NOT AS WELL AS BEFORE THE BLOCKAGE. IT WILL FAIL AGAIN. Rebuilders cut out the tubing where the blockage is on blocked units and then weld a new upper tube assbly in place, then charges the cooling unit. THERE IS NO WAY THAT MOBILE TECH FOUND A BLOCKAGE, UNLESS HE STUCK AROUND FOR 2 OR 3 DAYS AND DID VARIOUS TESTS. TEMPORARILY UNBLOCKING A UNIT REQUIRES THE REFER TO BE TURNED UPSIDE DOWN FOR 24 HOURS AND THEN RIGHT SIDE UP FOR 24 HOURS. Then start a cooling process. You could have just had a glitch and if the refer continues to cool (below 38 degrees in the refer and below 10 degrees in the freezer), I would not worry about it. Also, it could have been as simple as the rear cooling fans did not run. Did the Mobile tech checked those? Doug PS, is the refer in a slide room? The tech used a heat measuring gun and found the top tube hot on the left side and it cooled off right in the middle and continued cool the rest of the loop. Seems logical to me that where the heat stopped and the cool begin theres the problem. The fridge is in a slideout. One of the fans was stopped up with mud dobbers nesting on it. Once flipped, it gurgled a few minutes and then we flipped it right side up. powered up and working still. Steady 34 degrees in fridge. Note: we were camped in Davis Mountain State Park and temps got down to single digits a couple of days before it quit working. thanks Mod Edit: fixed the quote AS I stated, NO BLOCKAGE. The fan was the problem. Also, to make the refer operate BETTER, I install an additional 12 volt cooling fan at the upper outside vent door blowing OUT. This is really needed for all slide room installed refers. IF any blockage, you would NOT get 34 degrees. The heat gun showed high temps because with inadequate ventilation the cooling unit overheated slightly. Doug
dougrainer 01/14/23 09:28am Tech Issues
RE: Coleman rooftop a/c

Were the original roof top AC's Heat Pumps? Some Oem's install a Heat Pump in front and a standard AC in the rear. You just joined. ALWAYS list 1. Year Make and Model of RV 2. Brand and model number of appliance you are asking about. It is rare for a RVP(Coleman) top control board to fail. It is also rare for the wall Tstat to fail. Since the new HP does exactly as the old, it points to the control board/wall tstat/WIRING at the tstat or at the connections on the control board. Do you have 2 wall tstats or just 1 that controls both? Do BOTH tstats(if 2) have the same designations on the outer button cover? On Coleman HP's, IF you set the HEAT to more than 5 degrees above the wall setting, the System defaults to the furnace. IF you have 2 furnaces. If just one furnace the front HP will default to furnace. The rear will do nothing except blow air. SO, try setting the rear tstat to just 3 degrees above what the tstat setting is. Doug
dougrainer 01/14/23 09:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrige operation in cold weather

COLD below 20 degrees affects the operation of the COOLING UNIT ammonia mixture. Turning on the LAT(if installed) does NOT have any affect on extreme cold weather operation. It is best to just install a 40 watt incandescent light bulb in the rear outside of the refer. Of course, this assumes you will be able to plug in to 120 volts while staying in the Hotel. I always advise AGAINST blocking the outside air door intakes. Out of sight and out of mind mentality takes over and if you forget to open up the blocked doors when traveling to warmer climates, you can ruin a cooling unit. Doug
dougrainer 01/14/23 09:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: burbing fridge

Blockages are as hard as a weld and are attached in the upper coil area and CANNOT be broken loose. So, burping just rearranges the Ammonia temporarily to work a little longer. It works but NOT AS WELL AS BEFORE THE BLOCKAGE. IT WILL FAIL AGAIN. Rebuilders cut out the tubing where the blockage is on blocked units and then weld a new upper tube assbly in place, then charges the cooling unit. THERE IS NO WAY THAT MOBILE TECH FOUND A BLOCKAGE, UNLESS HE STUCK AROUND FOR 2 OR 3 DAYS AND DID VARIOUS TESTS. TEMPORARILY UNBLOCKING A UNIT REQUIRES THE REFER TO BE TURNED UPSIDE DOWN FOR 24 HOURS AND THEN RIGHT SIDE UP FOR 24 HOURS. Then start a cooling process. You could have just had a glitch and if the refer continues to cool (below 38 degrees in the refer and below 10 degrees in the freezer), I would not worry about it. Also, it could have been as simple as the rear cooling fans did not run. Did the Mobile tech checked those? Doug PS, is the refer in a slide room?
dougrainer 01/12/23 01:40pm Tech Issues
RE: LP gas leak

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSeal-1-75-oz-5-Pipe-Thread-Sealant-25790/100144191?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_001_PIPE_FITTING-NA-NA-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_001_PIPE_FITTING-NA-NA-NA-SMART-2998850-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live-71700000094213694-58700007814434200-92700071019453829&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5NSdBhDfARIsALzs2EDzmq8INmUEr7_SZ6q3F4bki-9lXLTmd3i229Y5wTOGYsJ4kcaTGv0aAu2fEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Use this for the threads. I have used it for 40 years and NEVER had any type leak. It also will seal threads on Hydraulic fittings that use up to 3500 psi. One you replace and air pressure the tank, make sure you bleed off all the air to purge the tank. Doug
dougrainer 01/04/23 09:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: loose Alpha TPO roof beside fridge vent on roof

Many roofs are not glued down on the outer edges. If there are no obvious tears in the membrane and the membrane wraps over the edge I would not worry about it. What makes you think this is factual? They ALWAYS run glue to the edge. The only time they do not install glue is ON the radius from the roof to the sidewall IF the RV has radius instead of a 90 degree edge. The reason they do not on a radius has to do with the radius does not absorb the glue like wood and will cause discoloration below the rubber. Doug
dougrainer 01/03/23 08:40am Tech Issues
RE: How does 50 amp work?

The 50 amp 220 volt is the same as the 30 amp 220 volts at your home. Most RV's loads are 110 volts thus only use one side of the 220 volts as do most of the loads at your home. Most homes only the water heater, electric range and electric furnace use 220 volts and most are 30 amps or less with the exception of some heat pumps. A heat pump in a RV may be wired for 220 volts. NO HP in a RV is wired for 220 volts. No such HP for an RV has 220 volts. ALL are 110 volts. 220/240 volts in an RV is supplied by 2 separate 120 wires OUT OF PHASE. EACH side is on a 50 amp breaker for 100 amps total supply. The RV does NOT separate the supply. The supply is already separated at the POLE. If the Supply is in phase, the RV will not function correctly all the time. For instance, you have a built in EMS (energy management system) . IT sees if the supply is out of phase. IF IT IS, then you have full 100 amp capacity. IF same phase at supply the EMS will only allow 30 amps total operation. It assumes you have connected a 50 to 30 amp reducer dogbone. IF you think you are connected to a 50 amp service and your EMS shows 30 amp, you have what I call CHEATED 50 amp service. The RV park did not upgrade their supply and wiring for true 50 amp total 100 amp service. This is theft by the RV park. You are paying for 50 amp service and they are NOT giving you what you pay for. The simple test ALL RV'ers need to do is have a multitester and at the Park Pole test the voltage between the 3 and 9 o clock spade slots. 50 amp will show 240. ANY OTHER reading, the pole is NOT 50 amp. Doug A good explanation. Only thing wrong with it is that the "out of phase" part - a common misconception. They (the two legs) are in-phase with each other and maybe easier to understand as two halves of the same phase. On an oscilloscope the signal would look like one complete sine wave. That phase is then split into the two, 120VAC legs. So your 240VAC service is referred to as Split-Phase. I think my explanation is better on the Phasing. Please explain in your definition, why, when people try CHEATED 50 amp. They use the same "leg" and then attempt to split that leg onto BOTH sides of the 50 amp RV breaker box, you are still on one phase. This is the Electrical definition of this, NOT MINE. "Two 120 V AC lines are supplied to the premises that are out of phase by 180 degrees with each other". Doug PS, the definitions also state Split Phase as the same, but I feel stating OUT OF PHASE is better to let lay people understand WHY 50 amp is as it is. It helps explain the 240 between the legs.
dougrainer 01/02/23 09:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How does 50 amp work?

The 50 amp 220 volt is the same as the 30 amp 220 volts at your home. Most RV's loads are 110 volts thus only use one side of the 220 volts as do most of the loads at your home. Most homes only the water heater, electric range and electric furnace use 220 volts and most are 30 amps or less with the exception of some heat pumps. A heat pump in a RV may be wired for 220 volts. NO HP in a RV is wired for 220 volts. No such HP for an RV has 220 volts. ALL are 110 volts. 220/240 volts in an RV is supplied by 2 separate 120 wires OUT OF PHASE. EACH side is on a 50 amp breaker for 100 amps total supply. The RV does NOT separate the supply. The supply is already separated at the POLE. If the Supply is in phase, the RV will not function correctly all the time. For instance, you have a built in EMS (energy management system) . IT sees if the supply is out of phase. IF IT IS, then you have full 100 amp capacity. IF same phase at supply the EMS will only allow 30 amps total operation. It assumes you have connected a 50 to 30 amp reducer dogbone. IF you think you are connected to a 50 amp service and your EMS shows 30 amp, you have what I call CHEATED 50 amp service. The RV park did not upgrade their supply and wiring for true 50 amp total 100 amp service. This is theft by the RV park. You are paying for 50 amp service and they are NOT giving you what you pay for. The simple test ALL RV'ers need to do is have a multitester and at the Park Pole test the voltage between the 3 and 9 o clock spade slots. 50 amp will show 240. ANY OTHER reading, the pole is NOT 50 amp. Doug
dougrainer 01/01/23 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heat pump blowing cold air

This IS NOT an Aqua Hot. The bus uses a Webasto system (50,000 BTU) for baseboard heat. It keeps us toasty warm in Temps well below zero. We have NO 120V heat other than the heat pumps and heat straps in the roof A/C units. Most Prevosts have basement air units called Cruiseairs and not roof mounted units. The newer ones are all going to roof air due to the PIA issues of the Cruiseairs. The bus is very air tight and we just use a couple portable heaters for most of the Winter. When it gets cold enough to be concerned about the bays getting to cold we turn on the diesel heat. Since we carry 160 gallons of fuel it will keep us warm for a Very long time. Sorry, I stated Aqua Hot TYPE systems. I realized you had a Webasto powered system and NOT an Aqua Hot after you posted a clarifying update. Doug
dougrainer 12/25/22 11:05am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heat pump blowing cold air

Are you sure about that Doug……I’ve had two motor homes with Aqua hot and neither would heat an RV in 40 degree temps with just the 120 Element. The diesel burner will need to be used at them temps. 1998. I ASSUMED you had the standard Aqua Hot system that has both 120 and Diesel. So, if you do NOT have the 120 option on your webasto system, then you have to use the Diesel burner. In the almost 30 years I have been servicing Aqua Hot type systems, I have never come across a Aqua Hot type system that did NOT have the 120/240 options. BUT, I rarely work on Prevost buses. I have worked on Hi line Monaco Signature motorhomes from the early 90's and up and they while not up to the standard of a Prevost, use 120/240 and Diesel combo systems. BUT, your RV should be able to handle outside temps to HEAT the RV down to about 20 degrees. IF NOT, you either did not operate it correctly or you had malfunctions.The manual states down to 50 degrees for 120 Heat. BUT, I have heated customers coaches down to 25 degrees when in for service on 120 only. The problem with NOT using the diesel option when running the system for heat is, when you use ANY hot water on 120 only the Furnace system shuts down to allow the Water heater function to supply hot water. Hence, you need to leave both the 120 and Diesel burner ON when in temps below 50 degrees. This will allow no disruption of either furnace function or lack of continuous hot water AND enough heat for the furnace system. If you have the larger Aqua Hot (600 series) it has 240 for 2 elements that WILL heat for furnace below 50 degrees. Doug
dougrainer 12/24/22 10:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Heat pump blowing cold air

I have the 5 button. I have 2 different units that have heat pumps and 1 unit that has a heat strip (wish I had thought it out as I would now have 2 with heats strips as the heat pumps appears to be just somewhat above useless!). We full time so cold is a normal part of our life and that means electric heaters and Webasto diesel heat is about all that works much of the Winter. We replaced the existing old unit with an exact replacement new unit so the installer swapped the old control board with the new control board so it would still work with the old style thermostat. Yes this is all on our 1998 Country Coach Prevost. Sorry, you did NOT replace with an exact. They(Penguin HP) are updated units so as I stated, you CANNOT move the control board from the old to the new. That P/n I listed is the correct control board for your 5 button. The NEW HP had a 12 button control board and the hardware on the new HP will not respond correctly to the original old style control board. Heat Strips are NOT the answer. They are 5200 BTU heat strips and all they do is take the chill out of the air. They are NOT designed to HEAT an RV. Besides, since you have the Aqua Hot(webasto) there is no reason to run the roof HP's below 40 degrees. The Aqua Hot 120 element is enough to heat your RV without running the Diesel burner. You only need the Diesel burner when you require continuous HOT water. Doug
dougrainer 12/23/22 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Thermostat issues

While working on the thermostat I accidentally touched some wires and there was a spark. The fuses on the box for the thermostat and furnace are fine. The thermostat does displays all functions, however, it will not turn on any of them. Using a needle type tester there appears to be electricity flowing through the slots except the one labeled white. Is there another fuse somewhere? Our thermostat is a Airxell 9430. Our unit is the Jayco Seismic 4212 toy hauler. WHITE should be the 12 volt pos feed TO the furnace to activate it. When in furnace mode. Doug
dougrainer 12/22/22 03:02pm Tech Issues
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