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 > Your search for posts made by 'ernie1' found 32 matches.

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RE: Intermittent water leak issue

drsteve; The dump valve was dripping externally onto the blacktop parking lot and I tried to push it in further to stop it with no luck. So I in an attempt to free it, I pulled and pushed with of course, the cap on the end of the discharge line firmly twisted on when all of a sudden the seal popped out of place and the liquid stuff started coming out between the two valve pieces. No, I was not trying to dump black water onto the black top in the middle of the parking lot. I know, of course, this wasn't implied!
ernie1 02/27/20 09:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Intermittent water leak issue

Dave H M: Reguiar so called plumbers grease is a petroleum product and will swell and eventually destroy any rubber products. One should instead use silicone grease which will not react with rubber. Guess how I know? It's a shame that plumbers grease uses that name because it can be very misleading. Used plumbers grease for years. on the dump valves on my rv and constantly fought them cause the seals had swelled and made the valves hard to pull. At one point I pulled the handle so hard the seal popped out of place and I had a real mess draining onto the black top at a Walmart store in New Mexico.
ernie1 02/27/20 02:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Intermittent water leak issue

I totally agree with mchero.You've determined that it's the cold side of the faucet that's leaking. Have you put a wrench or pliers to the fittings? Why does the fitting only leak sometimes and not others? You've already figured out that this happens when the water heater is running so that means that there's more pressure in the system and the pressure can vary quite a bit and the leak will only get worse with time and not better nor the same. After trying the wrench or pliers on the fitting with no luck, look long and hard at the fitting itself for cracks or splits. If this is not the problem, consider changing the faucet itself and get on with life. Quit wondering why and how this is happening. Most bathroom faucets are a pos plastic and will not last very long anyway.
ernie1 02/24/20 02:13pm Tech Issues
RE: NEED HELP MECHANICAL ISSUE (possibly transmission)

If the shift linkage is somehow jammed but can be released by jerking on it from underneath, check for broken motor and/or transmission mounts.
ernie1 02/15/20 05:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Bolt on bigfoot levelers on an e450 chasis

Beachsailor: Are you thinking about installing the system yourself?
ernie1 02/12/20 05:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thinking of Looking Again

Years ago I purchased a used 5th wheel Me Too trailer that had water Lines that froze and the water heater also was damaged. So I purchased a water heater and figured all I had to do was remove the old and install the new and be done. What a shock it was when I found that the new water heater wouldn't hook up because the original water lines had expanded when it froze and ALL the water lines throughout the trailer were now just a bit larger in diameter. YES worry about the pipes particularly if they are copper. I realize that rvs nowadays use pex which is a bit more forgiving but I'd be concerned anyway.
ernie1 02/09/20 06:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Small George Foreman Grill on Inverter

We have and been using the GF grill for a few years now and the wife loves it. We plug it into an exterior rv 110v outlet and do the cooking outside to eliminate cooking odors inside the rv. Very little power consumption, cooks evenly and quickly. When cooking is done, we place a moistened paper towel between the two cooking surfaces and let it steam for awhile and then wipe it clean with a moist paper towel. The little grease tray collects the dippings and we soak things up with another paper towel after draining the liquids into a garbage container. I recommend it.
ernie1 12/28/19 05:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Winnebago Fuse

My friend purchased one new and had a never ending stream of problems with the Ford Transit and the Winnebago Fuse portions of the rv.Had to wait weeks for Ford truck shops for service which mostly couldn't repair sources of check engine lights and engine oil leaks. The rear of the rv was so low to the ground that the right rear was caught on pavement twice which tore up the body and caused extensive damage The cabinetry was poorly constructed and drawers were constantly flying open.They had to almost beg an rv dealership to take it in trade on a new one. Almost a year later the dealer still couldn't sell it and was offering a healthy discount to a point where they were losing a significant amount of money.
ernie1 12/25/19 12:40pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Motorhomes on Mercedes Chassis

I have a 2018 PleasureWay built on a Mercedes chassis which I bought new.. This is my first diesel powered rv ever. I don't want to be too wordy so I'll be brief. Never again,it was a serious mistake which I find is very costly like $500 front end alignments, $235 for a fuel filter, $1,000 for a replacement windshield, etc, etc. The worst part is when I had a check engine light come on with only having 1,500 miles while I was in Utah somewhere and I live in California, I called 3 Mercedes dealers for service and two told me they don't work on Sprinters and the third said they would service it but gave me an appointment for 3 weeks later in the month. Weeks of worry later I arrived home to find that I received a recall letter from Mercedes which addressed the check engine light issue. Another annoyance is the extremely soft and vague brake pedal. One feels like the pedal will touch the floorboard before the vehicle will stop. I'm told "they're all like that, you'll get used to it". As to the supposed "plenty of power" statements, all I can say is you must try it and then decide. This Mercedes runs out of breathe long before it reaches the top of the hill and your only salvation is to plan way ahead and downshift at the right times to even keep up with traffic. My previous rv had a Ford v10 engine and that vehicle could literally run circles around the Mercedes.My suggestion is don't take my word for it, take one out for a test drive and then decide for yourself.
ernie1 12/09/19 09:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: The case of the disappearing gas leak

Don't know what chassis you have but the E series Fords had a gas filter in that location and is held in place with a banjo spring which requires a plastic tool that slips over the line to relieve pressure on it so that the filter can be replaced.
ernie1 12/09/19 01:04pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

fwiw: I have a Truma tankless water heater and it works great. I've heard really bad things about the Girard units. PleasureWay rvs were at one time equipped with Girard units until they received so many complaints about problems that they switched to Trumas.
ernie1 11/01/19 12:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Slow/ No Cranking

Charley 67: I've been down your road many times and it is almost always a problem with the starter being shot or a low quality "life time" guaranteed rebuilt unit from an "xyzzy Auto Parts Store". This is, of course, assuming your battery isn't shot. Bite the bullet and buy a new quality built starter or a Ford factory rebuilt unit. Make sure , of course, that it's actually a Ford manufactured rebuilt and not some off branded thing that Ford sells.It's going to cost more but it'll be worth it.Just wanted to also say that you bought the rv used and the PO might have had starter issues previously and changed the starter and replaced it with some low quality unit.
ernie1 10/27/19 12:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Yes boys and girls, you REALLY need to carry a spare...

My rv did not come with a spare and I made sure that I got one along with a carrier at the rear. Friends with a similar rv snickered at the thought of me having a spare tire and having to change it myself. Well I'm 76 years of age and haven't figured out that I'm supposed to be old and feeble yet. When I have to change tires I just deploy the BigFoot jacks and wrestle the tires off and on. Not a problem!
ernie1 10/27/19 12:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Hankook Dynapro Tires for 2019 Coachman Leprechaun

Hankook tires are put on Ford chassied vans a lot of which become rvs.These tires on Ford vans are sized for Ford vans only and can be hard to find unless there is a Ford dealer around. Some tire shops carry them but not a lot. Many complaints are made about them failing and blowing up. The real problem occurs when you have a tire failure and need a replacement especially under warranty. Ford dealers DO NOT want to deal with it especially with one tire on an rv. And Hankook Tire does not even want to talk to you at all and will give you a run around like Ford. Why do I say this? Been there done that and never ever again!
ernie1 10/09/19 09:33am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Vapor lock 1990 E350 EFI 460 engine?

maillemaker: I had a 1989 E350 with a FI 460 once upon a time that had similiar issues as yours. The vehicle did a bunch of strange things like putting out a strong gasoline odor when climbing and working hard in high outside ambient temps. I noticed that if I removed the gas cap there would be a strong woosh of pressure blowing out and then things would be okay for awhile until the the next hard climb which might be the next day. I also noticed the the exhaust was super hot and blistered a bit of paint on the body where the exhaust pipe exited. At one point things got so hot that the propane tank pressure relief valve dumped a bunch of gas which prompted me to run for my life.Eventually the ac system blew a hose and we lost ac and the engine seemed also to lack power. Long story a bit shorter we found that the catalytic converter. came apart and got red hot. Changed the converter and the engine picked uppower like before but the engine wouldn't idle right and would die at idle. Finally an ace mechanic found the issues. He said both oxygen sensors were bad which was dumping gas into the exhaust (I was getting 4 1/2 mpg)and burned up the catalytic converter. Also. the throttle position sensor was faulty which allowed the engine to die at idle. Also I found out that there is no way to set the idle speed without going into the computer and resetting it. Good luck.
ernie1 10/06/19 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

NRALIFR: Well after about 24 hrs of running my refer at about 12.2" I'm at 48.7 deg F. So I turned my fans on and the temp went up to 50 deg. F. I give up, I quit. Maybe a new compressor fridge is on the horizon. Don't know but I gave it the "college " try, reached out to others, got some good info, got some condescending info, been accused of highjacking a thread, but I do know this, I've had it. Thanks for your help.
ernie1 07/11/19 11:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

NRALIFR: Wow! This is exactly the info I needed especially because it's to the point where my problem stems from and I will follow through with the regulator adjustment. I was leaning towards doing something like this and was looking for confirmation from people who have experienced this problem but up to this point, no one would come forward with this info.. Well, you're the man! I will post the results when I can. I'm really curious as to where the black stinky liquid comes from and is it an issue that needs to be addressed. Seems other people have mentioned it in the past. Just curious, what was your propane pressure after your final adjustment and with no appliances drawing from the system?
ernie1 07/10/19 11:29am Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Okay so I tested my pressures. 11' with no draw from appliances. With the generator on it was 10". With the furnace on also it dropped to 9". With the refer on also there was no noticeable drop. I also tested the draw across the gas solenoid and it was 108.5 ohms. What say any of you guys in the know? Is there a problem? Also there is about a 1/2" clearance between the condensor and the wall. I know, it's excessive and I will take care of that but, again the unit works fine on ac and 12v.
ernie1 07/09/19 09:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Everyone and Doug, thanks for your help and I will at this point check the lp pressure from the regulator to the refer at the gas valve and dismantle the chimney looking for any irregularities along with a thorough cleaning of this area.
ernie1 07/09/19 04:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

NRALIFR My refer has two side vents and I've installed two 12v fans behind the top vent and when the fans are running I've actually noticed the refer losing ground and the inside warm up a degree or two so now I've quit running the fans totally. You're right about reading the installation manual and I will but I'm still saying if the installation was not proper, why does the unit run fine on ac and 12v BUT not propane. Also, My two friends with Dometics of the same vintage complain about the same issue. Logic is clear to me in this case that there is something not right with the propane part of these refers. I'm tired of hearing about how blameless Dometic is and when I reach out for help to their tech people they are clueless, rude and condescending. At this point I think I'm beating a dead horse in trying to find a solution and getting wound up in company loyalty issues etc rather than dealing with facts.
ernie1 07/08/19 09:49pm Tech Issues
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