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 > Your search for posts made by 'garyemunson' found 187 matches.

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Brake fluid change?

Does anyone here actually follow Ford's recommendation to replace brake fluid every 2 years in an F53 chassis? For decades I've been using synthetic fluid and changing every 4 years. At that interval, the fluid is just beginning to change to an orange color. I doubt at 2 years you'd see any change. I've followed the 4 year time in all my vehicles for many years and have never had to replace a caliper/wheel cylinder/master cylinder/ ABS module. Different mfgs are all over the place with change intervals, our Caddy even calls for 10 years! I'd NEVER leave fluid in a vehicle that long. Any thoughts?
garyemunson 10/22/19 05:54pm Tech Issues
F53 wheel bearings

Does anyone know if a 2014 F53 22k chassis has sealed wheel bearings or do they need to be regreased every 60K miles?
garyemunson 10/22/19 05:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Soft Spot in Floor, Can't Find Leak!!!

I would suspect the two windows. Have you taken a screwdriver and tightened all the screws around the inside of the window frame? The most important ones are across the top and usually forgotten as they are hidden behind the top valance/blinds. The tape sealer between the window and wall keeps getting compressed as the RV flexes going down the road. That's a maintainence item that should be done annually. The butyl tape sealer is usually good for 10 years so I really don't think you need to pull the windows out.
garyemunson 10/19/19 06:16pm Tech Issues
RE: No heat

There is a "sail switch" that looks for airflow through the unit. If it is stuck (or bad), it will not allow the gas to turn on.
garyemunson 10/19/19 06:21am Tech Issues
RE: Winnebago investing heavily in Electric powertrains

Don't call Tesla's semi "vaporware". There are 2 prototypes running around the West. I have personally seen them 2X here in the Reno area. There is quite a bit of discussion on using a Tesla semi chassis under a motorhome. With Tesla's experience installing their Superchargers all over the place, I can see the logical next step of building a electric motorhome chassis as a replacement for Diesel pushers and building out a charging network at higher end parks. I'm suspecting there may not be much of a difference in price between those two powertrains give how much a 500HP (or higher) Diesel engine with Allison transmission costs plus you'd ditch the Diesel genny set. We have, on very few occasions, stayed at higher end "RV resorts", usually by necessity of not finding a normal park with vacancies. As our class A Winnebago is still less than 5 years old, while they kind of look down on us, they haven't come up with an exclusion policy that works to keep us out (yet). You take your place surrounded by million dollar MCI's, Prevosts, and the like after being relieved of $100 plus for your spot. I can very easily see places like that being equipped with a power pedestal sufficient that would provide an overnight charge for an extra $100 or so. I suspect you can count the number of people who dry camp with these rigs on one hand so having to be at a charger every night is probably not an issue. Generally, electricity delivers the equivalant range at 1/3 the cost of fossil fuel. Both the fuel cost savings and lower noise level of an electric drive system would no doubt be very attractive to those who think little about dropping 7 figures on a coach. Another plus is not having to pull into a smelly Diesel island at a truck stop to refuel. Being able to take that out of the travel experience would probably sell a lot of coaches on that benefit alone. Reduced maintenance would be another huge plus. Brakes would probably never wear out as 90% of the stopping would be through recharging the battery (with never a worry about "no engine braking" restrictions) and, of course, the costly Diesel oil change would go away. Once Tesla actually gets their semi into production, I suspect an RV chassis will be close behind along with the associated charging network at the "platinum" resorts. Electric motorhomes have the potential to knock Diesel out.
garyemunson 10/19/19 05:33am General RVing Issues

When ours quit, I was pleasantly surprised to find that it had a hose for the gas line that was long enough to reconnect to the furnace once I got it out of the RV. They are in a steel "mounting sleeve" that they will slide out of. You will probably find you need a long screwdriver to reach in and bend back some part/s of the sleeve that binds on the furnace module. I think the installers are not too careful and will just jam the furnace units into the sleeve when building the RV bending things. I set in on some saw horses next to the RV and bought a 4 wire trailer plug/socket that came with enough attached wire to make a "pluggable" harness that left me with the furnace on the horses wired and gassed up. From that point, seeing what was wrong and fixing it was a breeze! Next time you are somewhere they sell trailer stuff, get a 4-wire plug. and add it to your junk bin for the inevitable time when the furnace acts up. In our case, I could hear the igniter but the gas valve was not opening. New board fixed it. Those little furnaces are things of beauty once you get them out where you can see and work on them!
garyemunson 10/19/19 05:12am Tech Issues
RE: how do you keep sewer tank clear

No chemical, any toilet paper. Never dump before at least 1/2 full. Best to wait to dump until you arrive at the next campground. Driving will slosh the contents around, break stuff up, and help the dump process. More water in the tank is better. After a "#2 deposit", do a second "flush" after filling the bowl with water. Will help break up what's lying under the drop tube. Plenty of water is your friend. The system should be sealed and there should never be significant smells. If your toilet bowl will not hold water, it needs it's seal replaced or you will get smells. Most of the time odors are caused by a bad vent valve under a sink letting grey water stench into the RV. I don't think anything will extend the life of valves. They all quit around the 8-10 year mark. Valves are cheap and most are easy to change. Feel sorry for those with valves way back under the RV that require cutting holes in the bottom cover to get to them!
garyemunson 10/19/19 04:59am General RVing Issues
RE: Keeping ice cream frozen

RV fridges mounted in slides seem to be what has caused most of the "soft ice cream" issues. When they are not in a slide, fridges have a vent directly through the roof over them. In a slide, they have to make do with small "muffin fans" to help move the air up and out vents on the side wall. This isn't the best of solutions but does work most of the time. First you have to be sure the fans are still working. The fans or the small thermoswitch on the upper fins can fail. If they are not running on a hot day, you've probably found the problem. Another issue I found on our Winnebago Class A is that, while driving down the road, for some reason air must not move bottom vent to top like it should. I got the thermometer below and determined that. As we drove down the road, the temperatures in the fridge and freezer would start going up. The longer we drove, the worse it got. Once we stopped, the temperature would fall again. I cured this by getting 2 small automotive radiator fans, wired them in series to slow and quiet them down, and mounted them in the upper vent. They move much more air than the muffins and now warming up while driving is cured as is the soft ice cream.
garyemunson 10/19/19 04:47am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Trip report: High Country of the Eastern Sierra

Thanks so much for the incredible pictures! One regret I have in life is that I did not move out West earlier when I would have been still capable of hiking those gorgeous areas! Please keep those spectacular pictures coming!
garyemunson 10/19/19 04:35am Public Lands, Boondocking and Dry Camping
RE: Window Haze
garyemunson 10/10/19 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Window Haze

Do not listen to those who say they cannot be DIY fixed. You use this "Super Spacer" between the panes setting the spacer about a 1/4" from the outside of the window then fill the small gap with urathane sealing caulk. The spacer can be gotten in different widths. It is important to measure and get the correct size or the repaired window will not fit back in the frame.The worst part of the job is you have to "open up" the window frame so you can get the glass panes out. First you have to pull the window assembly from the RV. The frames are a continuous piece of aluminum bent into the window's shape and joined with a splicer. Once you get the screws out of that you can spring the frame open and get the glass out. I found, rather than totally dismantling the 2 pieces of glass, I used a razor knife to cut the old spacer out at the top and bottom leaving the window panes held together by the two sides. I did help someone whose spacer adhesive was so dried out the window pretty much fell apart once we started working on it (the new spacer has adhesive on both sides) so we had to completely re-space and seal the 2 pieces of glass. If yours seem mechanically sound, with the top and bottom pieces of spacer removed, use a rag with Turtle Wax Chrome Polish on it and use a metal coat hanger to drag it back and forth inside the two panes. You need 2 people for this. This will remove the fog. Some claim the glass is "etched" but everyone I've worked on seemed to be fogged with something like calcium buildup on bathroom faucets. The chrome polish will scrub it away. Follow up with a clean rag to get rid of the polish haze. I slid the new spacer in using a screwdriver to get it 1/4" past the edge of the glass. A little tricky as you have to pull off the protective strips from the sticky spacer material . Even if the remaining old spacers seem to be failing slightly, the two new pieces will hold the window together and the urethane caulk actually does the real job of holding the window together. Dig enough of the old sealer out on the other 2 sides to let you flow a fresh coat on and totally seal the glass. Do this on a dry day. I've never had a window refog from any trapped moisture,. The Super Spacer has some desiccant in it to lock any miniscule amount of moisture away. As for the Argon gas filling they sell in new windows, it is absolutely not necessary for your DIY repair as RVs are so poorly insulated the tiny bit of help it might give is not measurable. This job is time consuming but the savings are immense. The urethane is the real workhorse here and your repair should last 10 years as long as you make sure the glass is clean when you apply it.
garyemunson 10/10/19 05:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Lippert leveling pump unit

Ordered switch... Amazon was the best price.
garyemunson 09/28/19 06:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Starting batteries instead of deep cycle

Most bang for the buck is always 2 6 volt golf cart batteries from Costco/Sams Club. Unless they are allowed to run dry, are alway good for 7+ years. Lots of people who take care of them get +10 years.
garyemunson 09/28/19 06:09am Truck Campers
RE: guardian 5500 rv Generac generator problems

Generac carbs have very small jets that are easily plugged by gas drying out in the float bowl. Very hard to clean them without making them larger. Why they are considered expendible items.
garyemunson 09/28/19 06:05am Tech Issues
RE: Water damage in walls

Old motorhome have walls that fall apart thanks to the windows leaking between the frame and wall. With any RV, you need to go around and tighten the window frame screws once a year. After about 10 years the butyl tape used a sealer must be replaced as it will be dried out and fully compressed allowing the frame to contact the wall directly and it will leak. Sealer smeared around the perimeter of the window frame is useless. It will leak again very quickly. Do it right. As for the RV, $1700 is probably way too much for something that may turn out to be junk. Clicky
garyemunson 09/28/19 06:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Newbie Electrical Issue - Advice Needed Please

X2 on fridge and/or water heater causing the issue. At home, using an extension cord is always a bad idea unless you have an industrial 12 gauge one. Often cords sold as "Heavy Duty" only means they are big around. See if wire size is stamped into the cord. 14g is only good for 15 amps so you are pretty close to limit already with one of those.
garyemunson 09/28/19 05:54am Tech Issues
RE: Battery Hold downs

If you are talking 6 volt golf cart batteries (my battery of choice), I use these. They go across the long edge on the top of the battery and you use threaded rod at a 45 degree angle to the opposite side base of the battery. This does require having something for the battery to set against on the opposite side bottom. Makes for a solid mount.
garyemunson 09/28/19 05:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Ford Chassis

That should mean we'll see them on the 2021 RVs. The chassis are always the previous year from the coach. Always the possibility that Ford built up the V10 inventory to carry them through the retooling so maybe it will be a mid-year 2021 change. What I wonder is how long Ford will keep producing the old E-450 chassis before beefing up the new van system to replace it.
garyemunson 09/28/19 05:27am Class C Motorhomes
Lippert leveling pump unit

Anyone here been inside the Lippert levelling pump unit yet? Our 2015 Winnebago has had an intermittent issue for the last few years that seems to be getting more frequent. After the jacks are retracted, after about 5-10 minutes the jacks down light will come on (when driving) and the pump will start to build the pressure back up. This only lasts a couple seconds and light is back out for 5-10 minutes again. I've watched the jacks with the RV sitting still and when this happens you cannot see any jack movement so it's the pressure leaking off the retract side just enough to start the automatic safety retract cycle. Of course Lippert does not consider this a serviceable item and only sells a complete unit and some assorted coils and pressure switches. I'm certain the pressure switch is not at fault otherwise the pump would not cycle as it does. It would be nice to find a breakdown of the valve body itself to help with fixing whatever is wrong. I can only assume the check valve on the retract side at times does not seat properly and lets a tiny amount of fluid to leak back lowering the retract pressure fall enough to trigger the pump. I'm sure the pressure is pretty **** high and the leak must be very small to take as much time as it does to fall to the pump start value. I'm making a guess that the valve is either tight in it's bore or the sealing surface has some imperfection that could be polished out. This has been going on for about 3 years, behaving fine for many months on end before "breaking bad" and doing it's mischief for a while. I've found that most often, it will stop on it's own after about 10 cycles. Occasionally, I've pulled off the road and cycled the system through auto level and retract and the problem quits. Sure would like to hear from someone who's tinkered with one of these valves before I dive in.
garyemunson 09/28/19 05:20am Tech Issues
Spring Ridge Resort, Newport WA

Back in August, FCMA sent an email regarding a free camping offer for Spring Ridge in Newport Wa. We took the resort up on the offer but ended up not staying the night as the location is not as nice as the rosy verbiage of the offer makes it seem. We pulled onto the lot and were attacked by hordes of yellow jackets. A new looking yellow jacket trap hanging from one of the trees that was practically full made it obvious this is a known problem in this area. Their model is selling a 2.5-10 acre lot that can be used for RV camping or home construction. What we found unpalatable was the distance from town location as well as the fact that with the considerable investment you will make in the property (and a house, if desired) you are left in a situation where there is little protection against your neighbor moving onto his lot with a dilapidated 5 wheel torpedoing the value of your efforts. They tout the lack of any HOA as a benefit but while some like to avoid that sort of encumbrance, in this situation you lack needed protection from those have a different idea of what a nice homesite is. It is listed as a 55+ community but once the builder sells out, there will be little you could do about people breaking the rules without considerable legal expense on your part. The straw that REALLY broke the camel's back was, after seeing many "No Newport Smelter" signs in the neighborhood, a little research revealed there is an attempt by a large Canadian corporation to build a coal-fired silicon smelter within a few miles of the campground. Maybe you may not share my concerns about these issues but anyone who is considering this place REALLY needs to do their "due diligence" before signing on the line.
garyemunson 09/15/19 08:35am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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