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 > Your search for posts made by 'garyemunson' found 35 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Motor home side yard cover

Sounds to me that you are in an HOA area. There is no other way "neighbors" could make it come down otherwise if the city OK'ed it. More details on your situation?
garyemunson 10/05/21 07:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Buzzing transfer switch

Dirt gets between the metal armature pieces. If they cannot "seal up" tight, metal to metal, they cannot develop a full magnetic field and will buzz. A common problem on RVs where road dirt gets into everything. If you are handy, you can take them apart (with power off!) and clean them. You do not want to let it continue since without the armatures in full contact with each other the current through the coil can increase enough for the coil to burn up. The buzzing also helps the wire connections to loosen and potentially burn up.
garyemunson 10/04/21 05:22am Tech Issues
Low mileage V10s

I keep seeing posts by people complaining about their low mileage RV's engine "blowing up" and I want to raise the alarm again about people buying Ford powered RVs with very low mileage for their age (i.e. 12K miles on a 2014). Most people only change oil according to the miles driven, thinking if it's just sitting alongside the house they do not need to. An RV like that may have only had one oil change in it's entire life. Ford Triton engines are critically dependent on Synthetic blend/full synthetic and the included additives. These oils are only good for about a year before they start being age-degraded (would you drive your car more than one year without changing oil?). The V10 is an overhead cam design with a follower between the valves and cams. That follower has a roller and pin with a steel-to-steel bearing surface. As long as oil is changed on schedule, that design is 300K mile capable. The rest of the engine will wear out before them. When oil is not changed when specified, those rollers are very prone to seizing on their pins. At first, there is no apparent evidence of this happening. The frozen roller will just slide on the cam surface. It may take several thousand miles but eventually it will start developing "traction" and when both surfaces get rough enough, the follower will get "spit out" of position usually jamming one of the valves open with fatal results for the engine. Warranty claims early on led Ford to require at least a synthetic blend oil to prevent this as conventional oils just were not up to the task. You will notice a lot of new vehicles also require a synthetic as engineers found they could build cheaper by letting the lubrication do more of the work (Ford could have spent more money putting needle bearings on those rollers). The synthetic oil strategy is often seen on cars with double overhead cams that have complex timing chain arrangements that will also trash the engine if they fail. If you buy a Ford engined RV with low miles for it's age, I STRONGLY recommend you have a mechanic pull the valve covers and make sure there are no seized rollers (there are 20 of them!). Very cheap insurance against the multi-thousand dollar expense of a replacement engine. While you are at it, have the front end checked. As chassis lubrication is done at oil changes, any grease in a low mileage/older RV is probably dry and useless. You can put 50,000 miles of wear on a front end on a 500 mile trip if the grease is bad. If you have ever owned a grease gun, you are aware of how the oil will separate from the grease and end up on the bottom of your toolbox drawer after a year. Same thing happens with the front end components.
garyemunson 09/05/21 06:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2016 Ford Chatteau 22e pricing..........

With an RV of that age with such low miles it's not a bad idea when you get home to pull the valve covers and make sure all the cam follower rollers are free. That RV may have only had one oil change in it's life. Follow these forums long enough and you'll see the complaints about low mileage V10s blowing up. Without regular oil changes (with at least synthetic blend) those little rollers (which run steel on steel bearing surface) will develop burrs on their shafts. When that happens, the roller stops turning. The engine will still run until the roller and cam develop enough traction to "spit" the follower out of position, usually jamming a valve open, destroying the engine. Without this low mileage nightmare, V10s are +250K mile motors.
garyemunson 08/28/21 06:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fleetwood factory

Let us know if they actually help you.
garyemunson 08/22/21 07:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2004 Lincoln Avaitor TV

The Aviators have the smaller Ford transmission. While quite suitable for the purpose, it already has 110K on it so expect you'll be doing a rebuild on it sooner than later if you start towing 4500 lbs. A larger tow vehicle would be much preferable for both durability and more comfortable driving. The Aviators are in pretty high demand right now so my suggestion would be to trade it for something bigger and you'll be both happier with how the towing goes and be less likely to have a breakdown.
garyemunson 08/17/21 04:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Chevy V8 vs Ford V 10

My warning to people buying an RV, particularly on a Workhorse chassis, is that while you can still get most anything for the 8.1 (or other mechanical systems on one), finding parts on the shelf is not as easy anymore as Ford engine parts. Back in the 90's I was taking a cross country trip in an old 80's vintage Slant Six Dodge van and with only 90K on it, it jumped the timing chain. Those are not "interference" engines so there was no damage other than to my wallet as I had to sit in a motel for two days while the chain was shipped in. You can't fault the part stores for not keeping stuff in stock when the vehicle is so old that they won't sell many parts for them.
garyemunson 08/17/21 04:02am Class C Motorhomes
RE: AC Water on top of RV

This stuff is small, sticks well, and does not look out of place. Can be used to alter the condensate water's path.
garyemunson 08/15/21 01:39pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: New truck pricing

I was thinking that exact same thing seeing pictures of rows incomplete vehicles waiting for chips/etc. With the end of the model year approaching and knowing Tesla has over a million preorders for their fast coming Cybertruck (maybe not something us RVers would want but still digging into truck sales overall), it seems like the legacy manufacturers will feel the need to chop prices dramatically to move the backlog once they obtain parts to finish them. I kind of doubt finishing those trucks is only a matter of plugging in a part and shipping them. I would think the vehicle would still need final inspections back on the line and then need to be loaded and shipped. I wouldn't think those trucks would be at dealers until at least September when buyers would be expecting to see 2022s. With GM and Ford teetering, this might be the end of one of them.
garyemunson 07/24/21 03:58am Tow Vehicles
RE: onan 4k gen

Try prying off the limiting cap on the altitude adjuster so you can open it a little more. If that cures it, the main jet needs to be cleaned.
garyemunson 06/29/21 05:56pm Tech Issues
RE: New wallpaper

Use Zinsser Shieldz primer otherwise wallpaper will fall off! Home Depot has it.
garyemunson 06/29/21 05:54pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: High Altitude AC use causing Onan generator to die

You can pry the little black limiter cap off the altitude adjuster to allow you to open the adjustment a little further. That will probably temporarily fix your issue. The jet that the altitude adjuster varies the size of is likely partially clogged. That (main jet) jet is right at the bottom of the float bowl and if any gas is left in the carb during storage, that is where the deposit builds up as it evaporates. Will cause low-power lean running that will stall the genny if a significant load is put on it. If that strategy gets it working OK again, plan on cleaning the carb jets once you are done using the RV. Onan discourages cleaning the carbs to sell new ones. Really are not too many "mechanics" capable of doing that anymore anyway. They are good, reliable carburetors that generally just have "dirty jet" issues. The main jet at the bottom of the float bowl is the most important and most often overlooked. Tricky to clean as the fuel supply enters it sideways from the altitude adjuster screw. A good overnight soak of the metal parts in lacquer thinner and "rodding out" of the passages with a broom straw (DO NOT use anything metal or you WILL be buying a new carb!!) will do the trick.
garyemunson 06/24/21 06:28am Tech Issues
RE: Smoke coming out under hood Class C Majestic, What is it?

Wires on that look too small for the emergency start circuit. Probably going to need to follow those 6 wires to see where they go.
garyemunson 06/05/21 08:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bedroom Slide Issue

Is it one that needs to be lubricated and if so, have you been doing it? Also, look under the front edge to inspect the rollers. Older RVs with leaking slides will have the bottom of the slide box deteriorating and the rollers pushing up into it. That calls for a slide rebuild. We really need to know the brand of slide mechanism to help more.
garyemunson 06/05/21 07:45am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Fridge runs warm when temperature climbs into high 80s

I added 2 fans to the top vent of our Norcold. Used 2 small car radiator fans wired in series to slow and quiet them down. HUGE difference in hot weather operation.
garyemunson 05/25/21 05:21am Tech Issues
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