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 > Your search for posts made by 'garyemunson' found 199 matches.

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RE: AC Vent Blowing Out Bits of Foam

Send me a PM and I'll email you the manuals for the 2 most common RV dash A/C units. Might help you figure what's happening.
garyemunson 06/20/20 08:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Recommend rail-mounted propane grill?

Is there a danger of damaging the side of the RV from the grill's heat?
garyemunson 06/20/20 08:06pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ac question

As new as it is, I would bet you could run one A/C. The new ones use a lot less power and come with "soft starts" from the factory. This is a good item to have in your toolbox to track electric draw on lots of stuff, not just RV related. Check while everything is running and add up the values and compare with your power supply's capacity (pick the weakest link, in your case the 15 Amp adapter). You do need to have them clamped around a single conductor, though, not the whole cord. Building a real short extension cord with individual wires makes that easy.
garyemunson 06/20/20 08:00pm Travel Trailers
RE: The more I learn, the more I realize what I don't know

The reason I abandoned towing is, as I got older, my appreciation for just pulling into a spot and only have to do my hookups and push a levelling button increased a lot! Most of the time spaces are not long enough to stay connected so you have no choice but to immediately unhitch. If the weather is bad, that's something that you can't put off until the rain stops like just temporarily "boondocking" with your tanks, propane, and batteries until the cloud passes. I should also add we no longer drag a toad as that caused the same issues. Most all the "destination" RV places with things to do have an Enterprise car rental close by. Not having anything behind us makes parking and just general navigation in tight areas so much easier. One example is most Cracker Barrel restaurants have dedicated RV parking but in most locations they just designated two end to end spots as the "RV" spot. Fine for a motorhome or average bumper pull TT but with a 5th wheel you won't be eating there. As a motorhome owner I'm sure you reached the level of proficiency where you were never fearful of driving it around a corner where if you were pulling something, the need to back up if you encountered something that you could not get by would have cause a BIG problem.
garyemunson 06/19/20 07:23am Fifth-Wheels
New LED taillights from Command Electronics

Command Electronics has finally re-engineered their problematic taillights that would fill with water when the gasket shrunk (and leak inside your RV's wall). The new LED assembly is sealed to prevent that and looks like it does not need the hole cut in the RV's body except for the wiring.
garyemunson 06/08/20 04:43pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Insurance question

Another thing to keep in mind is if you file, they WILL inspect it. Is it solid enough that the inspector won't decide it's no longer insurable? They will always look for every way out. If it were me, I'd fix it myself as to not risk future coverage. The insurance companies will enter a finding like that into a national database and can cause trouble getting insurance from any company down the road.
garyemunson 06/08/20 10:15am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Brake fluid flush

Once I got one of these, I've never gone back. Fast and sure. The smaller bottle is a "hamster bottle" that sits upside down on the master cylinder to help keep it filled. As noted above you DO NOT want to run the master cylinder dry and get air in the anti-lock system. The bleeder hooks to your air hose and sucks the fluid out of the calipers. Much faster than any other way. The bleeder bottle is translucent so you can see when the fluid starts running clear. Those who regularly flush their brake system when recommended rarely ever have to replace calipers or master cylinder.
garyemunson 06/05/20 04:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: First tow results

I'm so disappointed Ford's not putting the 10 speed in the F53 motorhome chassis. They need it most of all.
garyemunson 06/05/20 04:42pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2021 Chassis Class A Motorhomes

The V8 chassis come with much heavier sway bars and what look to be Ford's version of Sumo Springs for travel bumpers.
garyemunson 06/01/20 06:56pm Class A Motorhomes
2021 Chassis Class A Motorhomes

Does anyone here have a new gas motorhome on the new 2020/2021 F53 chassis with the new V8 and heavier duty suspension? If so, how about a review for us?
garyemunson 06/01/20 05:09pm Class A Motorhomes
Sealants of choice

Doing the re-seal on the assorted seams on our Winnebago and searching the forums for the best sealants, the post are all quite old and many of the recommendations are no longer available. I'm a satisfied customer of Dicor for roof work but wonder what people are having luck with for vertical and horizontal side wall seams (front and rear end cap to wall and trim that covers wall seams and slide edges). Winnebago uses some sort of milky solvent based sealer that dries clear for those but they only sell it in a huge industrial tube that's really hard to use as opposed to a normal caulking tube plus their product is north of $30 a tube with shipping. What have you all been using?
garyemunson 06/01/20 04:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Getting no power at all chassis or coach Help please

Sure you got the wires back in the right place?
garyemunson 05/27/20 04:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Unusual tire wear

My experience with a number of Class A gas motorhomes over the decades is that with the alignment set correctly to whatever the specs call for in maximum positive toe in, the RV will track MUCH straighter on rough roads and crosswinds but you will see more wear on the outer edges of the steer tires. Many years ago I complained to a front end shop about the wear on an old "Flying W" Winnie and they took some toe in off. The difference in steering was noticeable and bad. Had it put back to spec and just resigned myself to replacing the fronts sooner in exchange for better tracking.
garyemunson 05/26/20 11:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mini Winnie needs major work

The Class Cs never had the "real" Triton engine. The cramped engine bay meant they all got the 2 valve head lower powered V10. Not a desirable motor power wise. So bulletproof and long lasting (300K+ miles) most vehicles with them go to the junkyard with a perfectly good engine ruining the motor's resale value. Easy visual check: 2 valve, plastic valve cover, 3 valve, aluminum cover.
garyemunson 05/25/20 06:00am Class C Motorhomes
36Y owners?

Anyone on here also have a Winnebago or Itasca 36Y floorplan coach? We could probably swap tips and learn something from each other.
garyemunson 05/24/20 12:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 Bounder Fuel (gas) leak

Something is loose. Should not leak.
garyemunson 05/22/20 12:48pm Tech Issues
RE: F53 V10 Manifold Bolts

Interesting that T18skyguy mentioned Nickle being removed from the manifold's cast iron as a cause of warping. The machine shop guy said the exact same thing when I dropped the manifold off for surfacing. He felt I probably would not have a repeat as after being exposed to heat for long periods of time the iron becomes "seasoned" and far more stable and less prone for any further warping. He claimed he's rarely had a manifold return for a second surfacing (that he was aware of) and with engines lasting longer now he feels he would have likely seen that. Also want to add I was apparently extremely lucky that of the two broken studs, one was broken about 3/8" outside the mating surface and was easily remover by fingers! I only have one to drill out today. Seven other studs spun right out by fingers after breaking them free! Only one stud stayed in the head with the nut coming of by ratchet. probably should go pick up a few lotto tickets.
garyemunson 05/21/20 06:46am Class A Motorhomes
F53 V10 Manifold Bolts

Our Winnebago Class A with it's Ford V10 just joined the ranks of those with broken manifold studs and a leaking exhaust manifold. When it warms up next week I'll dig in and fix it. Thought I'd try to reason out why this is such a common issue, particularly on the F53 motorhome chassis. I'm harkened back to the 70's when I first started tinkering with motorhomes and am reminded of all the "classic Flying W" Winnebagos that came on the Dodge chassis with the old 413 V8. Toward the end of their existence, almost all of them ended up with tubular headers as the stock cast iron ones just couldn't stand the heat under an RV doghouse and cracked. That was so common it got pretty much impossible to find a good used RV 413 header in junkyards and as Dodge had discontinued that engine in favor of the 440, they soon (10 years) stopped selling new 413 manifolds making aftermarket "racing headers" the only game in town for the 413. I'm leaning towards my theory two things are contributing to the V10 manifold gasket issue. One is that the V10 is part of the "modular" Ford engine family where many parts are common across the multiple size engines. The metric manifold studs are about the size of a 5/16" bolt. This is no doubt sufficient for a V6's short manifold but probably borderline for a V8 and CERTAINLY too wimpy for the V10's longer exhaust manifold. The V10 should have been built with 3/8" studs. This leads to what I'm thinking is the REAL culprit causing the manifold leaks. First off, I see it's most often the passenger side that starts the tick-tick-ticking leak first. As the manifolds, bolts, and gaskets are the same on both sides, you would expect there shouldn't be a preference for the passenger side to leak first. What I propose as the problem has to do with the fact that the F53 chassis has the engine offset towards the passenger side. Crawling under the wheel well, the right manifold is quite exposed to air and road splash water from the tire. I'm thinking this uneven heating of the manifold coupled with the undersize bolts for such a longer manifold gives more "leverage" for the manifold to try to warp up and this is what causes the often seen broken rear manifold studs. The driver's side is much more protected being further to the right and more removed from the left front wheel (and has a bunch of cables, hoses, and other stuff between the engine and wheel). The older 70's Winnebago engines actually set up inside the taller doghouses where the engine was more removed from road draft and splashing from the tires (and transmitted a LOT more heat and noise to the passenger compartment). This made them run much hotter though, and more prone to cracking manifolds from the heat. With the "basement" design of modern motorhomes, the drivetrain is now mostly down below the cabin floor, much more exposed. I think what happens is that going down the road, particularly during hill climbing, the right exhaust manifold ends up very unevenly heated, the side against the engine much hotter than the side toward the wheel. Once I do my repair, I'm going to mount a piece of galvanized metal on the passenger side to the frame that will extend up to the bottom of the cabin floor. Mounted to the outside of the frame rail will put it about 5-6" inches away from the manifold so it will still get plenty of cooling air from the front like the left side but will be protected from most wind and water splash directly from the right front tire. I feel this will make the right manifold's environment much more like the left's hopefully making this a one-time repair. You can see YouTube videos and read about owners having to do this fix several times which I want to avoid. If you need to do this repair, also be advised that it is very important to take the manifold down to your local automotive machine shop and have the mating surface planed flat again. The manifold starts leaking because the rear of it has warped up and "curled away" from the cylinder head surface and this distortion is permanent but easily fixed by planing it . I'm pretty confident the machine work and my DIY shield will make this a one time repair for me.
garyemunson 05/20/20 07:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cybertruck may have 1 million-mile battery

We have been driving an electric car for going on 9 years. They are all proving to be far more reliable and need far less maintenance than a fuel-powered vehicle. Since our house got solar panels, we charge for free.
garyemunson 05/19/20 04:35am Tow Vehicles
RE: Oops ??

Hey, the hole is there, use it for the mount. Get a correct size stainless steel carriage bolt (with the smoooth, rounded head) at Home Depot. Put it through from the outside with a little dab of Dicor non-leveling sealer on it and paint the head to match the RV. Just do not overtighten it. RV walls are pretty soft compared to the ability of something with threads to crush them. No one will even realize it was a mistake!
garyemunson 05/19/20 04:28am Fifth-Wheels
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