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 > Your search for posts made by 'ggardne2' found 8 matches.

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RE: Morryde Step Above

I am happy with our Step Above, when in use it is a very stury step and because it stores inside the trailer it doesn't rust and get stiff like the older steps did. Also, it will adust to accomodate pretty much any site so I no longer have to carry an extra step/stool to accomodate unlevel sites where the front of the traielr ends up high.
ggardne2 01/19/20 07:39pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: And the smokey glass stove cover is no more

Is thsi what you are looking for? Furion Top Glass
ggardne2 12/01/19 09:36pm Travel Trailers
RE: Indianapolis

if you're comings south on I-65 Prophetstown State Park near Lafayette is open year round. The bath house is closed but the full hook-up sites are open and have frost free hydrants so have water. Prophetstown State Park
ggardne2 11/15/19 08:58pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Winterization issues

My vote is an oepn low point drain also ... is it possible that when you opened the drain for the water tank you also opened one of your low point drains?
ggardne2 11/03/19 09:16pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: No Hot Water

Looking at the picture of your hot water tank, it appears that somebody (maybe an RV technician at the dealer) has had hte burner tube out of the tank before and didn't do a very good job of re-installing it. Why do I think this? The self tapping screw that holds the burner tube into the main tube is too long, it should not be resting on the electrode bracket. Also the bracket holding the burner by the gas valve is not straight and the gas shutter appears to have been adjusted more open than what is typically expected. Does this have anything to do with your issue? Maybe ... the igniter has been pushed out of position by the too long screw in the burner tube ... it is also possible that whoever disassembled and reassembled this heater altered the gap on the igniter (should be 1/8" gap between the igniter and the ground rod). The igniter also must be centered in the flame. I would also check that the black wire coming off of the igniter is firmly plugged into the circuit board, if this wire is loose the igniter will not spark. You should hear the igniter sparking when the heater is turned on as it tries to ignite the flame. This is a good troubleshooting book if you want to learn more: Atwood/Dometic Troubleshooting Manual
ggardne2 10/23/19 09:18pm Tech Issues
RE: newbie question about winterizing water lines and pump

If it was winterized properly and you never ran water through the lines or drained the anti-freeze you should be fine. In terms of your pump switch, this sounds like a momentary switch that turns on when pushed up, off when pushed down. Usually this type of switch in a camper is an indication that there is a second switch somewhere in the circuit (sometimes in the control panel and perhaps in a bathroom). IF your system is pressurized pusing the switch up woudl energize the pump circuit but the pump would not run as the pressure in the ilnes is high enough.
ggardne2 10/15/19 09:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Tow with Chevy Bolt?

I suspect that the cooling system for the electrical components (inverter and motor and possibly the battery) on the Bolt are not sized for the amount of power that towing a trailer will put through the system. You could try to tow with your bolt, but it is highly likely that thermal protection algorithms will start to derate power output to protect the hardware.
ggardne2 10/14/19 09:48pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Fry cooking electric device and watts?

Most RV 110 circuits are wired for 15 amps. Generally 15 amps will support a continuos load of 1440 watts if you are on a 120V service (80% of the 1800 watt maximum for this type of circuit). Based on this the 1800 watt deep fryer will not work on a 15 amp circuit. Given that lots of RV parks have insufficient/outdated electric you are likely to encounter voltages that are less than 120V which will make the situation even worse.
ggardne2 10/14/19 09:19pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
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