Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'happy2rv' found 131 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 7  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Chrysler UConnect

I have a 2017 RAM 1500 with the 8.4" UConnect. I haven't subscribed to the app since the trial ran out. From the time I bought it until the last update, about a month or so ago, I couldn't set favorite phone numbers. Kind of an annoyance, but not a huge issue. Before the update, it would shut down as soon as any door was opened. After the update, it stays on for up to around 35-40 seconds even if the door is opened. I've never had it fail to shut down though. I'm not sure if they pushed another update or rolled back to an older version, but just after I posted this 2 days ago, mine went back to not saving telephone favorites and now powers down as soon as I turn the ignition off. I never got any message that there was an update.
happy2rv 01/10/20 10:39am Tow Vehicles
RE: Chrysler UConnect

I have a 2017 RAM 1500 with the 8.4" UConnect. I haven't subscribed to the app since the trial ran out. From the time I bought it until the last update, about a month or so ago, I couldn't set favorite phone numbers. Kind of an annoyance, but not a huge issue. Before the update, it would shut down as soon as any door was opened. After the update, it stays on for up to around 35-40 seconds even if the door is opened. I've never had it fail to shut down though.
happy2rv 01/07/20 05:49pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Hey Y'all! Have a noob question!

I'd agree with adding water and dumping before leaving. Not only do you run the risk of odors, liquids will evaporate especially in the summer leaving a concentrating sludge. I would also always add several gallons of water to the tank before use at the beginning of a stay.
happy2rv 01/03/20 07:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: Auxillary Fuel Tank ?

To everyone who is recommending Titan tanks, perhaps I'm missing something. I looked at their XL replacement tanks and I could find nothing for a 2017 1/2 ton Ford, Ram, or GM. If I moved up to 2500/3500 series they showed options for diesel engines only, not gas. Either they've quit making them for gas or their web site isn't showing them...
happy2rv 12/12/19 09:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Weekend Warrior Red LED Side Marker replacement?

Picture helped. I can't vouch for either of these sites, but this site claims to be a WW parts shop. I saw it on the Internet, so it must be true ;) use at your own risk. Arizona RV Salvage has WW salvage units if you would consider used. PPLMotorhomes has been around for a long time, but I've never ordered from them. This looks close, but the pictures aren't the best. Cheap enough though, showing $3.13 sale through tomorrow.
happy2rv 12/12/19 09:16pm Toy Haulers
RE: No Warranty on your RV? Don't buy new?

"I know who's slept in my bed, who's used the kitchen and appliances, and for the most part who's put what down the toilet." I love excuses like that for paying tens of thousands more for a new unit. I guess these buyers have never slept in a hotel, never used a public restroom & never been to a restaurant. They must be relations of Howard Hughes. Nice! Many would say that anyone who can afford ANY new or used RV, especially for "recreational" purpsoes, must be rich. I'm definitely not related to any wealthy benefactors and the wife and I work hard for every dime that comes in and goes out. What you call an excuse, I call a reason. You may not agree, but there DEFINITELY is a difference between a new and a used RV. For many, the depreciation, especially the first few years, is not worth the difference, for others it is. Have I slept in hotels? Yes. Is it my preference? NO!!! That's one BIG reason I have an RV. Have I used a public restroom? Obviously, although most of them, especially on the road, I would prefer not to. As for tens of thousands of dollars, my TT only cost a few 10's of thousands and a five year old "equivalent" unit still costs a couple of 10's of thousands. I use quotes around equivalent because, despite what some may say, there are differences. The same floor plan was available, but that's about the only thing that's the same. The decor is different, the refrigerator was a gas absorption RV refrigerator vs the residential compressor refrigerator in my TT, the cabinetry design was different/less functional, etc... Mine also had zero wear and tear on it when I bought it. Some might find that garage kept, constantly cared for, used just enough to keep everything in perfect working order RV, just 1 or 2 years old being sold by a little old lady from Pasadena for 10% of the price of a new unit. I never seem to find that deal. I did pretty well with the repossessed class C we owned, but it wasn't that great a deal. Buy what you want. My advice is to buy within your means. There are advantages to new, if you can afford it and if those advantages are important to you. There can be advantages to buying used, if you're careful. Cost can be one of the big advantages, again if you're careful. Not unlike the automobile market, the used market value is at least partially driven by the average amount remaining on loans on similar units. Unlike the auto market, the majority of RVs are finance for 15 years, not 5-7. There is also a two edged sword in the used market. If you're buying from a conscientious, caring, previous owner, as with houses they will likely have worked out any fit and finish issues from the manufacturing process and may have installed some nice and possibly expensive upgrades. Most upgrades don't add any significant value to the selling price. However, the other side of that sword is that if you are buying from a less scrupulous or even well meaning but less conscientious seller, they may be intentionally concealing or unwittingly passing on significant defects. There are lots of reasons people sell RVs. Some sell because they fall on hard times financially or just aren't getting enough use to justify the cost. Others sell because of poor health or their spouse or other family passed away and they no longer want to or are able to travel. But just like in the used car market, there are those who try to conceal defects to increase profit/avoid losing money. Everyone's heard fables of saw dust in the transmission. I once bought a used car from a dealer that had more stop leak in the radiator than water or antifreeze. What can I say I was younger and stupider. A used unit will have wear and tear. It will have however many miles of rattling down the road with all the screw loosening vibrations and twisting and flexing that comes with those miles. It will have however many nights of firing the heater and/or running the air conditioner. It will have however many years of sitting, usually in the open unprotected and usually neglected for months at time. It may have that child's wallet, or worse, stuck in the black tank drain (did I mention, 18+ years later, I still really don't want to relive that day...). It may need tires and batteries and other maintenance. Those are the negatives. Those are the reason it's less expensive than a new unit. Some times that wear and tear is very light and the previous owner has been good about maintenance and proper storage. Some times, as previously stated, they've added worthwhile updates. Some times you get a true bargain. A used RV is better than no RV in my opinion. The right RV for the purchaser, at the time they want to purchase it, is the best RV. If you have specific preference with regard to layout, brand, size, etc. It may be difficult to find your preference in a used RV. If you do, that's great. If not, I would rather spend a few thousand more for the RV I want than a few thousand less for one I'd be settling for.
happy2rv 12/12/19 08:46pm Beginning RVing
RE: No Warranty on your RV? Don't buy new?

I've bought 2 new RVs (a motorhome and TT) and 2 used RVs (both motorhomes). Our fist RV was a used motorhome, a very used motorhome. It didn't come with a warranty per se, but the dealer did agree to fix issues we identified before purchase. We did a thorough inspection and the dealer fixed several issues. We owned that one for a couple of years and we only had to do minor repairs which I did myself. Our second used motorhome was a newer, but not new enough to still be under any drive train warranty much less coach, class C that was a repossession. It was sold by the repo agents as is where is. Once again we did a thorough inspection and found a few minor things that we fixed ourselves. We did wind up having to have it towed about 40-50 miles to have a crank shaft position sensor replaced. I think that was about $500-800 including the tow. Our third motorhome was brand new and had a 1 year coach warranty and I think 3 years 36000 miles on the drive train but I can't remember for sure. We traveled about 6 hours out of state to purchase it and the dealer delivered it about a week after we bought it. Most dealers don't do any prep or PDI until its sold. We had our first warranty issue almost immediately after delivery. Fleetwood told us to take it to our local dealer for repair. We made an appointment and took it in. The shop manager lost his **** in the most unprofessional display of customer interaction I've witnessed in my life because the shop had agreed to work on it since we hadn't bought it from them. He tried to send me away and cussed his staff and me and Fleetwood but I had made an appointment and cooler heads finally prevailed. They did fix that issue. I took it back to the selling dealer 6 hours away for some other minor issues and I found a local independent RV repair only shop that was factory authorized for future work. Several minor issues with the coach and more significant issues with the chassis electrical system were addressed by warranty. We had a few nit picky issues with our travel trailer when we first got it. The shower door was off track and the water fill line was kinked. Those were taken care of quickly. As others have said though, the warranty, especially the coach warranty, is only as good as the dealer doing the work. I've heard lots of stories about RVs sitting in dealerships for months at a time waiting for warranty work. For most minor things, I would rather handle them myself than drag the trailer to dealership. Warranties can give you peace of mind, but it may be false hope. As others have already said, RV warranties aren't like automobile warranties. Most shoppers who do their homework would come out far ahead financially buying a 2-5 year old used RV and either fixing issues themselves or paying out of pocket to have an RV repair place fix them. Having said that, there are many good reasons to prefer a new RV other than cost. One of the reasons I like having the RV is I know who's slept in my bed, who's used the kitchen and appliances, and for the most part who's put what down the toilet. There's a story about a child's wallet and a blocked black tank drain on our first used RV that I don't like to revisit...
happy2rv 12/11/19 10:35pm Beginning RVing
RE: Weekend Warrior Red LED Side Marker replacement?

Can't tell from the pictures I found exactly what shape the FS3000 uses, from what I can see they appear to be typical oval side marker lights. You should be able to find a replacement by searching for "LED side marker lights" on etrailer.com or amazon.com both have a fairly wide variety.
happy2rv 12/11/19 09:58pm Toy Haulers
RE: Auxillary Fuel Tank ?

I've been looking into the same thing for a 2017 RAM 1500. From everything I've been able find out, it appears that auxiliary tanks for gasoline have been outlawed. There are lots of options for diesel, but nothing for gasoline. Auxiliary tanks for gas are legal. Check Transfer Flows 40,50,75 gal. tanks for gas Transfer flow was one of the first places I looked. The only thing they claim will fit a 2017 RAM 1500 are 40, 82, and 100(50/50) refueling tanks. I couldn't find anything that claimed to work in a 1/2 ton Ford, GM, or RAM gas pickup plumbed in to transfer or feed the existing fuel system. Same holds true for Titan tanks and a number of other popular manufacturers. I was told by a local truck accessories shop that it was illegal, and based on my research to that point it seemed reasonable since I found lots of options for diesel and none claiming to fit gas. However, as posted by Durb, Aluminum Tank Industries does have auxiliary tanks that are listed for gas. They don't have a fitment guide, so I can't say for sure they will fit, but I will be checking in with a local distributor after Christmas to see what they can do. Amazon lists the 30 gallon tank with install kit for $594.99.
happy2rv 12/11/19 09:49pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Auxillary Fuel Tank ?

I've been looking into the same thing for a 2017 RAM 1500. From everything I've been able find out, it appears that auxiliary tanks for gasoline have been outlawed. There are lots of options for diesel, but nothing for gasoline. There are a few options for transfer tanks. The difference being that a transfer tank sits in the bed and holds fuel, but is not plumbed into the fuel system or fed into the stock tank. You would have to pull over, get out, and pump the fuel into the onboard tank. I've found titan has 15 Gallon saddle tank but it doesn't have a built in pump only siphon. I've also seen combination toolbox / transfer tanks with built in pumps in the 50+ gallon range. I have a 26 gallon tank and the only option I've come up with for a larger plumbed in tank is, as others have suggested, to replace the stock tank with a larger tank if it was an option or there is an aftermarket tank available. I followed the link enblethen posted above and it appears the tanks from summit are only for diesel as well. I haven't seen an aftermarket larger tank for the RAM. The OEM XL tank is 33 gallons and if you can find a dealer willing to quote it, most won't, the consensus seems to be it will be in the $3-4K range. Not worth it to me for 7 gallons. With respect to others advice of just stopping, its not always that easy. It's a chore to get into and out of even the large Travel Stops with a 37' trailer in tow. I start looking to fill up around 1/4 tank and most times its not a problem, but on at least one occasion I have had to resort to finding a spot to unhook the trailer because I was running on fumes and there wasn't a gas station I could get the trailer into. I tend to stop and stretch my legs every couple of hours, but I prefer to do that where there's plenty of room to park. There are also still a few areas of the country and especially the trans Canada highway where I would definitely want more range than my stock tank offers.
happy2rv 12/10/19 07:09pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Lights on Toad Veh when Dolly Has 'em (wiring options)......

I won't weigh in on the legal requirements. I have no idea what individual states might require. It does however seem like a good idea to get lights at the back of the toad. You didn't indicate what kind of wiring plug you have installed for the dolly. I've seen lots of flat 4-pin Y splitters. They are used a lot in pickups where there is a light bar in addition to a trailer. I think 6 or 7 pin round Ys are going to be hard to find. One option would be to make your own by installing a second socket on the back of the RV or on the dolly itself. You could install a wiring kit to use the toad's own lights or use magnetic lights.
happy2rv 12/09/19 06:15pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Deadbolt suggestions

From the pictures I could find, it appears that at least some of the entry doors use standard RV lock sets. There are a number of replacement lock sets available. Tri-Mark makes a bunch of the OEM lock sets with deadbolt and locking latch. I think there's only a handful of unique keys and many use the same key. There are a number of electronic and/or wireless lock sets available as well. AP Products and RVLock brands are readily available on Amazon among other places. I believe RVLock claims some uniqueness in the keys, but I'm not sure how much. The "deadbolts" for all of the locksets are pretty flimsy. If you're looking for something more secure that just drops in, I'm not sure there's a lot of offerings, but lets face there are usually a lot of entry points that are at least as vulnerable on an RV or horse trailer.
happy2rv 12/09/19 05:58pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Warranty work on TT v 5r v MH

If we're talking new vs new vs new, it's purely luck of the draw. As mentioned, they're all boxes with furnishings inside on wheels. No reason for a moho to have more issues than the other 2. But you gotta count the tow vehicle in the equation with the other 2. I'd have to say including the drive train, there are potential reasons for more issues with MH vs TT/TV or FW/TV. I have seen issues with the quality of integration of the motorized chassis on MH. I haven't looked at recent MHs but there are a few significant differences. Since MH chassis are manufactured as incomplete vehicles with comparably limited production and integrated into the coach by the coach builder, there has historically been issues with the quality of that integration. Also, just based on production volumes there are probably thousands of pickup trucks produced for every MH chassis. Issues with passenger trucks and SUVs are more quickly identified and most have long production lineage that has identified and resolved many of the potential issues that tend to show up in MH drive trains. Without regard to the drive train, as stated before, there is little to separate similar quality travel trailers, fifth wheels, and motor homes from each other in terms of repairs. Similar quality units from the same manufacturer will usually share the same overall construction methods resulting in similar "box" performance as far as roof and window leaks. They will share similar interior construction resulting in the same fit and finish for things like cabinets, cabinet doors, and wall construction. Appliances like stove, oven, refrigerator, water heater, air conditioners, and furnace are identical and similarly installed.
happy2rv 12/05/19 10:45pm General RVing Issues
RE: RV'ing with a cat

Our first cat loved traveling in the motorhome. That's one of the reasons we like RVs, we can take our pet with us instead of leaving them at home or at a kennel. In the motorhome, we put the litter box in the shower and moved it out when we needed the shower. Not ideal, but it worked. We didn't keep a carrier or anything, just let her run around the RV like she owned it. Our current cat doesn't much care for traveling. With the trailer, we do keep him in a large carrier in the back seat of the truck while on the road. We have a pass through cat door into the outside compartment for his litter box. Once we get the trailer set up, we just let him loose in the trailer. He's usually OK with being in the trailer and doesn't try to get out. In fact, when we went to get him to put him in the carrier for our trip home from Thanksgiving, he really wanted to stay in the trailer rather than get in the carrier to go home. We ordered a large carrier for the truck, its probably 3' x 4'. Maybe too big?
happy2rv 12/04/19 06:39pm RV Pet Stop
RE: Warranty work on TT v 5r v MH

I can't say I've observed that trend. I haven't done any scientific studies or anything like that. I have owned exactly two "new" RVs. One Motorhome and one travel trailer. I've also owned other motorhomes. I can't say I had significant warranty issues with the RV portion of either. I had minor fit and finish issues in the beginning with both the trailer and MH. I haven't had any mechanical issues with the trailer, so far. I did have several mechanical/drive train issues with the MH while it was under warranty. Several recalls including verifying frame welds on the factory trailer hitch and replacing incorrectly installed catalytic converters. In addition to the recalls, had an intermittent engine failure that was finally tracked to bad wiring where it went through the firewall. I tend to think coach related issues would be similar for trailers, FW, and MH from the same manufacturer in the same quality levels. I don't think it would be fair to compare the cheapest entry level MH to the most expensive FW or trailer. However, expensive doesn't mean reliable or trouble free either. Grand Design makes some very expensive and nice trailers, but they seem to have lots of issues.
happy2rv 12/04/19 06:29pm General RVing Issues
RE: Pigion Forge TN

I'm not complaining about the traffic, at least not too much. It's a real sign our economy is strong when that many people are traveling for fun. As for the standing water, there was a lot of rain. Some pooling was to be expected. It's unfortunate that it pooled so heavily in the camp sites rather than draining away from them. A puddle here and there is one thing, but a 4" deep pond that's bigger than the truck and 1/3 of the trailer has to have some basis in poor grading. Especially when it happens on more than one site and the entire area isn't flooded. Maybe its a rare occurrence, but I've been in much heavier rains without flooded campsites. Anyway, we enjoyed the trip and it was a great Thanksgiving.
happy2rv 12/02/19 09:58pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Pigion Forge TN

Just got back from our annual trek. We stayed at River Plantation RV Resort again. We usually get a pull through, but they were all booked up when we made our reservation this time so we stayed in a back in. Last night was constant rain with intermittent deluges. We had to swim out to hook the truck up the trailer. Seriously there was at least 3-4" of standing water almost surrounding the trailer with the truck center of the pool in front. We've never experienced that at any of our previous stays, but several sites surrounding us were in a similar situation. Otherwise, great Thanksgiving weekend. This was by far the busiest Thanksgiving weekend in the past 10 years. Traffic on the parkway was reminiscent of the old days, bumper to bumper slow moving going south. Lots of traffic on the interstates coming home as well.
happy2rv 12/01/19 09:08pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Propane Question

I would think your heater is not going to run continually. it should heat up then shut down then when temps drop inside it will come back on. like on for 5 min. then off for 5min. depends on how well your insulated. Jay D. I think he was trying to figure out "worst case". Agree if it runs all the time, that means its never warm enough to satisfy the thermostat. Assuming that the thermostat is set to anything below about 90, and temperatures are anywhere in the 0+ range and the doors and windows are shut it shouldn't run all the time. There are a lot of things you can do to help. Insulated plugs for the ceiling vents, insulated covers for the windows, etc... Also, if you have 30 or 50A service, ceramic or oil filled electric space heaters can help stretch the propane. We don't typically camp in weather that cold, but we do use ceramic heaters along with the faux fire place electric heater even in 25-35 degree weather. We're already paying for the electric and filling propane bottles is a hassle. Another thing to think about is liquids in all forms. Obviously water freezing is a concern. If you don't have an insulated and heated basement, you can easily get frozen water lines even with the RV being heated. Any water lines that run near outside walls can suffer the same fate. Our TT has an insulated basement. We disconnect all external hoses and store during sub freezing temps and haven't had a problem with internal plumbing. Other liquids to think about are batteries. Charged batteries shouldn't freeze, but if you run them down they will. Other liquids would be anything stored in outside unheated storage compartments...
happy2rv 11/26/19 07:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Propane Question

Every time I had my empty 20# tank filled, it took 5 gallons to fill, our 30# tanks will take 7 to 7.2 gallons to fill when empty. It shouldn't take 5 gallons to fill a 20#. Propane should weigh 4.22 pounds per gallon which equates to 4.73 gallons for 20#, so I was low when I said 4.5 gallons. That's assuming it's filled to capacity which can vary by who is doing the filling. Assumption is OPD should kick in at 20# but I don't know how precise those are. 7.1-7.2 gallons should be spot on for a completely empty 30# tank. Also, to be fair, I did round the usage saying approximately 1/4 gallon per hour. So, assuming 91500 BTU/HR capacity 20000/91500=.2185745 gallons per hour or 21.64 hours for 4.73 gallons. All these calculations are very precise, but reality isn't so precise. I seriously doubt the 20K BTU is 100% efficient and exactly 20K BTU. I also seriously doubt that if you take 10 random 20# propane tanks any of them will hold exactly 4.73 gallons of usable propane. So, I would say approximately 20 hours of continuous run time from a full 20# tank. Again noting if you use exchange tanks they will almost certainly never be full when exchanged.
happy2rv 11/25/19 11:19pm Travel Trailers
RE: Propane Question

A 20K BTU furnace should use approximately 1/4 gallon of propane per continuous use hour. A 20# propane tank is 4.5 gallons, if filled to capacity. So, that should be 18 hours if my math is correct. However, it is worth noting that 20# tanks, i.e. common grill tanks are not always filled to 20#. This is especially true if you use exchange tanks. Exchange tanks are almost always filled to somewhere around 15#.
happy2rv 11/25/19 09:23pm Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 7  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.