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RE: Warm weather traveling

After traveling in a 35 foot fiver for many years, we have now started looking at class A gassers. We like to travel out west and southern locations. My question...Do you need to run the roof a/c's while driving to keep the rv cool? If so, doesn't this mean running the genny and killing an already challenged gas mileage? May sound like a dumb question... Thanks I find the impact of running the generator to run the roof A/Cs while cruising pretty minimal. Gas class As are not known for their efficiency, so running the genset while underway isn't going to make or break you at the pump. I'm fortunate, the dash air on my rig is very good and will keep the front two passengers pretty comfortable even without the roof air running, and maybe two folks sitting on the couch or the captain's chair just behind the front passenger pretty comfortable. I find that running one or both of my two MaxxAirs in exhaust mode while underway keeps warm air from building up in the rear of my rig. My bathroom door tends to close while we are going, so keeping the MaxxAir going in the bathroom and the MaxxAir in the kitchen running pulls sufficient air through the rig that nothing really gets too hot, even without the roof airs going.
jeromep 12/19/20 02:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Portable air compressor

I'm curious if the folks who are recommending against the Viair have actually used one. I don't have a motorhome but did have 125psi trailer tires for a few years. The 450P didn't struggle with them at all and topped them up decently quick (even the day I picked up the RV from a storage lot and the tire started with 40psi due to a nail). I wouldn't hesitate to get one for a motor home. I'll take a stab at this. First thing I don't like about the Viair is the use of alligator clips for 12v service. In my application I'm having to find battery terminals to attach to, which leaves me clipping this thing onto battery posts at the front of my vehicle, either my house batteries or my starter battery and then having to run a mess of hose along the vehicle to reach the tires. Sure Viair supplies 2 coiled air hoses, but still. That isn't quick and easy. Some users might keep around a small 12v SLA battery just to run this compressor, but again, that seems unpractical and you have to be keeping that separate battery on a charger just to use this compressor. If you happen to have convenient 12v posts in a basement or underbelly compartment, that might do the trick, but I don't have that in my application. I'd be all over a unit that was 120v. It is super easy for me use a 120v compressor. If I'm on shore power or have my generator on, I have 120v outlets on both sides of my rig, making plugging in and using a compressor super easy. I think Viair makes great stuff, but their intended application or usage model doesn't fit my preferences or situation. Actually the only thing I dislike about the Viair is the alligator clip 12v service. Otherwise the package size is perfect and the performance is good and the quality seems to be excellent.
jeromep 12/18/20 04:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Portable air compressor

Went to H Frt today to purchase the Fortress 2 gallon compressor. It was listed at 159$. Can't find a coupon anywhere for 129$ Suggestions? Thanks, Mike It was $129 last week, on their site, and it had all the requisite flags displayed online stating that it was on special. This week it is listed as $159 online. Sales come and go. If you were to wait I'm sure that it would be offered as a special again in a few weeks. That's the thing about Harbor Freight, you kind of have to buy when the sale is on or wait until the next one comes along. I kind of keep a wish list going, and when stuff goes on ad I purchase it then and add to my inventory.
jeromep 12/18/20 03:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1995 Fleetwood Flair 22ft

You didn't let us know how many files were on your Flair? That could be helpful. While mileage isn't a totally reliable indicator of brake wear or condition; feel, braking performance, brake stutter or shuddering, and effectiveness or lack thereof at certain speed ranges, is a much better indicator of brake condition, mileage is a good pointer as to if your brakes should be serviced. However, the way your brakes feel right now would have had me in a shop so fast. Take the VIN to any dealer or parts seller and that will tell them what parts your motorhome should need. Because your vehicle is considered an incomplete vehicle when the VIN is issued, lots of parts aren't going to be searchable by VIN, such as lights, trim, heat and AC, a fair quantity of the electrical system. What the VIN will do is get you to the really big things, like engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, cooling.
jeromep 12/17/20 07:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Roadside assistance

Read the policy or the prospective policy first before buying anything. Roadside assistance through vehicle insurance may not be sufficient or appropriate for RVs. Some roadside assistance might even exclude RVs, so reading the fine print is required. I think the high points are that you will want to make sure that whatever policy you get provides the services you think are necessary should you get stranded someplace with the RV. The roadside assistance needs to not just provide a tow to the nearest mechanic, but to one that can actually deal with your vehicle type, this is especially important for folks with DP coaches and gas class As.
jeromep 12/17/20 07:25pm General RVing Issues
RE: low coolant / add water?

Unless you where checking the pressurized part of the system when it was cold, you where gambling. Engine gets up to temp, coolant expands, forcing some into the tank. Then as it cools/contracts it is drawn from the tank to keep full. But a leak that can let air in means the tank can stay full but the system gets low. In the OP's case, where the engine is setting and maybe slowly bleeding, the level can drop enough to let engine rapidly overheat when started, and the gauge never read hot because the sending unit is dry. And that is why I got it schedueled into a mechanic for service as soon as I discovered it. Maybe I should have been more specific, but any in-between driving I did with it was to a scheduled generator service appointment which had been booked a few weeks before I discovered the leak, and then to the shop that handled the radiator. I'm not sure about your neck of the woods, but getting an appointment for any kind of mechanical service has about a 2-week lead time under current conditions, except for things like oil changes, tire changes, and basic maintenance. Anything deeper than that has a pretty significant lead time. The local generator specialist had nearly a 2 week lead time when I started with them, and the mechanic I went to also had about a 2 week lead time when this issue occurred. All of this really blew a hole in our late summer, early fall, camping possibilities.
jeromep 12/17/20 07:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: low coolant / add water?

I had a slow, "fillable", coolant leak this summer. For a couple short trips I filled the reserve tank to compensate for the leak, but any time I got the rig up to temperature, I'd see the leak under the rig after I parked, presumably directly below where the compromise existed, and the leak would only really occur when the system was at pressure. Once the engine had cooled off and pressure had returned to atmospheric levels, the leak would disappear. But the reserve tank always told the true story because it was always low on the old marker when the engine was cold. I refilled my overfill tank with straight coolant (older 460 V-8, so old tech), just to make sure I didn't run low or overheat. I added much less than a half gallon over the few weeks I had to run with the leak, which shouldn't have messed significantly with the coolant/water ratio, much. Took the rig into a mechanic, and after a rather expensive total radiator replacement, no leak, as it should be.
jeromep 12/17/20 08:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Portable air compressor

I have a 2019 Thor Axis 24.1. Which portable generator should I buy? The Aiair 400P or the 450P? Ya had me going for a minute. The title is "which air compressor" and, your question asks which "generator"? Wow! Anyway, ANY 12V compressor, yes even the junk Viair units are gonna work at topping off heavier duty tires. If you have the room and, a coach generator or, are normally plugged into shore power, I would (and have) definitely opt for a 120VAC unit. They are faster by far. I used to have the Craftsman version of the Porter Cable one that many carry but, due to unforeseen circumstances, it died and, I needed to replace it. So, long story short, I did a bit of research and came up with the Harbor Freight "Fortress" model. It's the 2-gallon version. There's multiple reasons I went with that one.\ 1. It's SERIOUSLY quieter than any other small, portable compressor on the market. 2. Its top pressure is 135 psi which, it suitable for ANY RV tire. 3. It's recovery time is PHENOMENALLY FASTER than any other compressor. 4. It has a *Brushless*, very low amp draw motor. I read all the reviews and was definitely impressed just by those. So, I took a chance and headed on down to my local HF and picked one up. I got it home, un boxed it and plugged it in. I was flabbergasted as to just how quiet it really is. I can put it on the couch, right along side me right now and still hear the TV just fine. It's cycle time, from where cut-on is, 95 psi, to it's cut-off pressure of 135, is SEVEN SECONDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I did it several times just make sure my watch was not wrong. Yep, 7 seconds each time, from start to finish. Wow!!! And one of the best features, beside all those I mentioned, it holds that 135 PSI for WEEKS ON END. I used it two weeks ago to air up our Jeep tires to get ready to tow it and, it cycled one last time after the last tire and, I just looked at it and it's still at 135 psi!!!! Harbor Freight is having a *Black Friday* sale that is a full month long. That 2-gallon Fortress normally is $159.00 but, for this Black Friday sale, it's $129.00, Can't beat that with a stick. Without a doubt, that compressor DESTROYS my Viair 400P that I keep as a backup to a back up. Your choice. Scott I'll put in a vote for that 2 gallon Harbor Freight Fortress compressor. It is beyond quiet, seems very solidly built, has a super fast fill from 0 psi time and ridiculously fast recovery when at pressure. It is a low speed 2 cylinder compressor, which in that size class I'm not sure anyone else is doing except for, maybe, California air tools, and at a much greater cost. An air compressor which has tanks provides much greater overall utility than those fill compressors which have little or no reserve and have to run continuously to provide air pressure. If I'm out someplace and want to top off, I'll just fire up my generator and run this compressor. I also have manual inflate air springs and my experience is that you need a compressor with a standing head of pressure to effectively adjust air spring pressure. Your mileage and preferences may vary.
jeromep 12/16/20 07:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dump Station Observations

Dump stations give me nightmares. The further away, as in hundreds of miles, the better I sleep. In times like these, aren't they considered centers for spreading virus as well as the usual harmful bacteria? No more or less than the average public restroom, or even your own bathroom. And don't get me started on people's kitchens. Kitchens harbor tremendous quantities of bacteria, even when people think they are cleaning up a kitchen properly or cleaning up after they cook. Bacteria and viruses are around us all the time and we are continually exposed to untold legions of bacteria and viruses no matter where we physically reside or visit, and no matter the precautions. With that said, good hygiene and good dumpsite practice are essential to protecting yourself from unnecessary exposure. Wear rubber gloves when handling any of your dump equipment, so hoses, elbows, flush accessories, even your valve pulls and outlet caps. Keep your sewer equipment physically isolated at all times from your fresh water handling gear and even your electrical handling gear. Stay aware of potential for cross contamination between your sewer gear and any other RV service gear you may have on board. After dumping I will leave my used rubber gloves in the trash bin near the dump station and upon reentering my rig will wash with soap and water prior to driving off, thus doing my best to prevent bringing back any bad stuff into the living environment of our rig. I'm fortunate in that my RV storage facility has on site dump for space renters. This makes it much easier to be careful, take your time, and cleanly dump tanks and even flush tanks without keeping others waiting or feeling like somebody is staring holes through you.
jeromep 12/16/20 11:18am General RVing Issues
RE: sears 3000 inverter

I have this feeling I'm going to be scoffed at, but the inverter generators at Harbor Freight are a great value. They have a 3000 which also has parallel ports like the smaller 2000. It's kind of hefty, but it is also really quiet. Price is fairly competitive. Here's a link.
jeromep 12/15/20 08:08pm General RVing Issues
RE: RV parked for a lengthy period

I've gotten a lot of free advice this year from mechanics, both vehicle and generator, and this is what I came away with; at least for my climate, which is always cold in late fall and winter, but unseasonably cold right now. So, the house portion of a motorhome is pretty static in storage. Get it properly winterized, maybe plug up some holes with steel wool which vermin can't stand, and if you are really concerned try the Irish Spring trick in cabinets and spaces to keep them away. On the mechanical side I was advised by my local generator service shop to run the generator for at least a contiguous hour under load once a month. Not 15 minutes here and there, but a full hour all at once with a load running, they suggested a space heater. What they want is for the generator to get fully warmed up, get the oil hot and all the components under the shroud all up to temperature. With monthly exercising, they did not recommend any fuel treatments. Running the generator was more beneficial than fuel treatments. For the chassis, that mechanic said something similar. Get the RV out on the road for at least 20 minutes, but preferably longer. Cycle through all the chassis systems you can, so run all modes of the climate control, especially the A/C, which most climate control systems will do in full defrost. Check your lights. Maybe even run your jacks. Getting the rig on the road was essential to getting the engine up to temperature and getting the transmission up to temp, which is something that a lot of people kind of ignore. I realize this isn't practical for many folks, but it is for me, and makes a lot of sense.
jeromep 12/15/20 06:10pm General RVing Issues
RE: Dump Station Observations

A few years ago I was setting in line a few campers back from the dump station. One guy gets close to the dump port and just opens the valve and lets it flow in that general direction. (The dump port was cemented in but, most of the area around the area was gravel) So, now the whole area around the dump station was wet. A couple of campers later a couple and their (approximately) 13 year old son pull up and start to dump and the kid is running around in the wet gravel barefoot !!!!! :E I'm not squeamish and I mind my own buisness but, in this case I did walk up to the women and politely tell her about why the gravel was wet and I suggested that maybe her son should be wearing shoes. She told him to go put shoes on and he goes into the camper and comes back out wearing flip flops. :B Oh well. Similar case a few years ago, behind a guy with no hose, got near the dump port and let it rip. He used a stick he found of all things to help corral everything into the hole. He was wearing flip flops too. I left and dumped at home. Same here ,other then it was one of those portable tanks , he rolls it over to the cement ,and opens it up, what a mess . one more here Was at a 2 way Island dump station at a state campground, I was starting to finish up when guy in new class C pulls up on opposite side, he was kind of nervous and then lets it rip with NO sewer hose. Lucky the ground was all cemented and pitched somewhat to the sewer hole, as I was leaving fast I did see him trying to wash the stuff with the station non potable water to the sewer hole. Mike Ok, I've got one I was only involved in peripherally and long before I owned an RV. I'm a Wazzu graduate and a buddy of mine who was in my high school class and also went to WSU, got the use of his boss's old RV and his company's season tickets, so we could go over, watch a football game, and then camp out overnight in one of the campus parking lots with all the other alumni RVers. We invited along another guy who we went to high school with who was game to do just about anything. I want to paint a picture of this other guy who didn't go to WSU. He was a tall, lanky guy, probably about 6'3" or 6'4" and even in his late 20s was pretty uncoordinated. So we attend the game, WSU lost, what's new? Back to the RV for BBQ, beer and chat. Since the two of us that went to WSU still had friends on campus we got ahold of them and they came over to hang out. We were up late into the evening and eventually our Pullman based friends went home and we retired to the RV. Buddy that borrowed the RV wanted to get out of Pullman early and beat the traffic on hwy 26, which was always a zoo the day after a home game. Our route home took us from Washington 26 to Washington 24. There is a rest stop on 24 just south of the Vernita bridge that has a substantial and nicely constructed dump station. It is really out in the middle of nowhere, on the edge of the Hanford reservation and next to the Columbia River. He announced that he had to bring the RV back to his boss with the tanks empty, yes, the right thing to do, and it had to not be any worse off than when he took it. So, we were going to dump at Vernita. So we get to the dump station, and RV buddy doesn't really park it as close as he wants to the hole, figures that the hose will be long enough. He gets the hose out of the bumper and discovers that it just barely reaches the port and if he puts the flapper down on the hose and the rock that is there on top of the flapper that the hose will stay in place long enough for us to complete the dump. Mild chaos ensues. He isn't familiar with which valve is black vs. gray and gambles and pulls the wrong valve first, the gray, so now we don't have any liquid to flush out the line. Good news is that our poorly jerryrigged hose situation at the dump port held together with the gray dump, so we know it works. I get the bright idea to go in and turn on the pump and run water down the kitchen and bathroom sinks to get him a few gallons to dump after he runs the black out. A few minutes later I turn off the water and shut off the pump and tell him that he can pull the black. Tall dude is, for some inexplicable reason, on the curbing above the dump port walking around. Remember, I told you tall dude isn't super coordinated. Just as RV buddy was pulling the black tank valve, tall dude trips and kicks the tube out from underneath the flapper and we have disgusting mess all over the concrete catch area surrounding the flapper. Tall dude, to break control his tripl ends up stepping straight into the "fluid". RV buddy is mad that tall dude was messing around and now might track doody back into the RV. I grab the station rinse hose and gingerly use my toe to press down on the toe push on the flapper, which doesn't seem covered in effluent, to get the mess down the drain. When we are done the general area is wet, but not overly soiled. Tall dude used the wash off hose to hose off the bottom of his shoes and RV buddy gave him a mess of paper towels to wipe his shoes off, even told him to take them off before he got in the rig. Gosh this occurred almost 15 years ago, but I can still remember it like it was yesterday. So, I'm at least somewhat directly familiar with dump station mayhem. Being that the dump station was located in the middle of nowhere we didn't have an audience and nobody was waiting. Click this link to Google Maps, this is an image of the exact dump station we were at.
jeromep 12/15/20 12:09am General RVing Issues
RE: Dump Station Observations

Once we laid a new hose on the table to install an end.nowhere near Tucson though. And we wouldn't have used that table on a dare. Bird poop and everything else all over it. They must have had spaghetti and dumped a lot of left overs on the table for birds etc to clean up. An RVPark we stayed at 1uite a bit. They brought us another table. I thought I was the only idiot that had to go buy a sewer tube and parts at a random, nearby hardware store, and then spend an hour squeezing and scrunching hose to fittings and couplers on the picnic table at my campsite? Small world. That is what you get when you buy an RV in a private sale from a local and they show you the tube in the bumper, but when you get to the campsite you only have 3 ft. of ragged tube and you need at least 20 to get to the port at your site.
jeromep 12/14/20 11:14pm General RVing Issues
RE: Oil change + replace battery, which comes first ?

Running my RV VIN number shows the wrong type of vehicle, it will show Ford F-550 while it is in fact F-53, I went to few auto parts stores and they had hard time finding the right parts My curiosity got the best of me. I've not heard of VIN numbers bringing up patently wrong vehicle information. While I'm not saying I'm absolutely, positively correct, I suspect that your Hurricane is built on an F-550 stripped chassis. I went poking around the Internet looking for information about F-550 stripped chassis, but found little. The stripped chassis that are currently offered at Ford are the F-53, F-59, E-450 and E-550. There are some very small Class As being built these days that ride on a stripped E-450/550. No reason that a number of years ago your coach was not built on a stripped F-550. Also, since your coach was built there has been quite a bit of vehicle model and purpose readjustment at Ford due to the introduction of the Transit van and the Econoline being relegated to motor home and utility service. What parts have parts stores gotten wrong when doing a VIN search?
jeromep 12/14/20 10:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil change + replace battery, which comes first ?

thank you very much the only season I am asking about changing the filter is because I have never done that and do not even have the tool to loosen it up Surely you don't mean that you have never changed the oil filter on an RV that you've owned for 17 years? :E I bought the RV 3 years ago, only used it for a year and a half total, I usually leave it in storage for 6 months and take it out of storage in the same RV Park for the other 6 months, I haven't even driven it that much since I stay at the same RV park. I have changed oil filters in my cars ( which is much easier ) but not an RV before You know, I used to change my own oil in my cars, but it became something I ran out of time to do. If you have the time to do your own oil change, I would suspect you'll find the oil change on your motorhome as easy or easier than on a car. You've got a lot more clearance in most of the places that really matter for basic maintenance. So long as you have an oil fill cap in your front service bay, the plug and filter are all going to be underneath the rig. So long as you like crawling around on the ground, you will be just fine. It was the crawling around under the vehicle that caused me to stop doing my own oil changes. If you are concerned about getting the right parts, find a parts store that will run your VIN. There isn't a whole lot of data about incomplete vehicles when you run a VIN, but it will tell them the correct engine, transmission and chassis information and they will be able to get the right parts for you.
jeromep 12/13/20 11:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air bags on a Class A gasser

I have air spring all around on a 95 Bounder 35' on a Ford F-53. The previous owner swore by them, told me to keep them at about 70 psi and I'd be just fine. His installation was all manual fill and I'm going to leave it at that. I've only had good experiences so far. A couple of weeks back I was on I-90 westbound coming down to the crossing of the Columbia River. There is a lot of cross wind on the bridge due to the canyon like area the river runs through. I felt pretty slapped around going over the bridge, but the vehicle was totally in control. My awning got the worst of it but the vehicle drove through the cross wind very confidently. I suspect 30 mph winds with gusts up to 50. I don't think you'll find a factory installation of air springs, but if you are going to do it be sure to research if you want a system that is self inflated with a remote control system or if you just want manual fill. If you choose manual fill you'll have a lot less mechanical stuff to deal with, but you had better have access to an air compressor. If you want the convenience of a remote control system, I hope you are very technically inclined or have a very good mechanic around. Either way air springs are a huge improvement.
jeromep 11/29/20 08:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Outside Shower

Wow, something I actually have some first hand experience with. While I love the compartment/service faucet or outside shower concept, it isn't all that well executed on a lot of rigs. The valve, hose, and shower head on my rig were original and old and checked, and very stiff. I went to use it this fall and I couldn't get the hot side to completly shut off, so I had to replace the whole set up. Looking around I found this. Amazon Link to exterior shower with coiled hose. There are a couple different version of this for different RV applications, and some color choice. The coiled hose has a quick release to the faucet. The hose also remains pretty soft in cold weather, run some hot water through it and the hose is very flexible. When done, take the hose off the faucet and put it in a convenient place or compartment. I have two hoses for this faucet, one is for when I'm dumping my tanks and dealing with sewage water, and I have a separate faucet that is kept with my fresh water gear for purposes not related to tank dumping. If you purchase and install this, it will really give you good utility to that outside shower. Here is a video of it being installed. YouTube video.
jeromep 11/29/20 11:09am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Tire Recommendation

Looking for class A tires for my 2014 Fleetwood Bounder 34B. Unfortunately my RV with 25k miles already needs tires. It is at Ford dealership for a general checkup. Dealership says it needs tie rods and king pins for front end along with 6 new tires ($2,900 w/out cost of tires). I have noticed that the tires are wearing on the outsides edges so I wasn't surprised. However, I am surprised all this work for a 2014 already. Dealership says the Goodyears that are on there now are $668 a piece. I am a FMCA member and they have Hancock, Continental and Michelin ranging from $305 to $430. Any thoughts? 1. Most vehicle dealers aren't that good at dealing with issues on Motor homes. I'd only use them for warranty issues with the chassis. Beyond an oil change or lube service, I'd have an independent do the work. You'll want to find a local shop that specializes in large vehicle service. You may want to check with your nearby independent RV service shop for a recommendation. The independent RV mechanic, the ones that deal with the house, will be able to direct you to a service shop that they trust when the issue they are trying to fix isn't related to the house. You'll know you've found the right shop when they have decent online reviews and when you notice that they have a number of motor homes in the lot that are scheduled for service. Plus, an independent shop that services motor homes will always be properly equipped to do so; the large, heavy duty lifts, large service bays, etc. 2. Any major brand of tires which are specifically for motor homes should be just fine. There are lots of decent brands. For my cars I lean toward Michelin, but the tires for your motor home are going to be more commercial or heavy duty in nature. Other brands could be very acceptable. Hankook tires are good, Korean brand. They tend to be very aggressive in terms of price, but the quality is high for the price point. Given the option, I'd probably go with Michelin, but that aligns with my biases for passenger car tires. I'm currently running tires from Les Schwab on my RV because they often times are the easiest and quickest to get into and their shops all handle large vehicles pretty easily. The tires they sell are decent, but Schwab is known for their warrant and after sale service, so, a lot of people go there for the after sale support vs. the great tire performance. I hope you had a good outcome on the mechanical issues.
jeromep 11/29/20 10:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Taaadaaa! Took the plunge. Airbags on the Class A

Rusty, I do not have handling issues of any kind but the front leans an inch or two lower on the drivers side. No visible damage to the springs. I was considering a front only airbag install. I see the kit: 1990-2007 Ford F53 Firestone "Ride-Rite" Air Bag, front Model: 2070 requires a 3/8 hole be drilled in the frame. The Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 88140/57140 appears not to need drilling as you said. Other than that issue, did you or others intentionally avoid the Firestone product? thanks, Found this entire thread interesting. I purchased a 95 Bounder 34j which had the Ride-Rite air bags front and rear. Previous owner said to run them at 70 lbs. So far I've not had any issue with that recommendation. It's a pretty firm ride, but crosswinds are a bit easier to handle than I had expected with a firmer ride. Previous owner had purchased a '14 Bounder and had not yet done anything with the suspension and was already complaining to me about how much wallow the new motorhome had compared to the old one.
jeromep 11/18/20 05:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 95 Bounder 35() looking for list of bulbs

I'm interested in those Bargman rears you have pointed out. I think that is a project for another time. I just had a local shop get the rears working right because they found a combination of ground issues and multi-function switch issues. So my rears look pretty good now and at least they work. On those Bargman LEDs, did you have to do anything with the signal indicator solenoid to make them work properly or flash appropriately? Your suggestion on getting the 193 lamps is spot on. Once I dug out a ladder and got up there and pulled off lenses I found out that the lamps are currently 193s. On top of that when I went to actually replace the lamps, almost none of those that needed replacing could actually be fixed with new bulbs. So, looking for additional hints as to what kind of marker assemblies I figured out from markings that they are Peterson 108 and there are no wires from the coach to the bulb. Apparently the posts are electrified and you have to get similar lamp assemblies that will bolt onto those posts. I suppose I could have done LED, but the conventional marker lamps are so inexpensive and the application is a bolt off, bolt on, so why bother. I appreciate the help and the follow up. If you really want some doo-fuss to see your stop/turn lights, so they'll know you're trying to change lanes and then speed up to fill the hole. Look at these Bargman replacement flat panel LEDs. I have them on my 95 and they will get your attention. Richard
jeromep 10/25/20 07:52pm Class A Motorhomes
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