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Forum
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RE: Would this be a power converter issue??
Your air conditioner uses 12V too. I suspect your converter has failed or the battery has a shorted cell.
How does an air conditioner use 12v? They are powered by 120v AC power and most thermostats are powered by little AA/AAA batteries.
Most thermostats are not powered by AA or AAA batteries, and even when they are the HVAC is still controlled by 12VDC because the furnace doesn’t use AC power and the thermostat controls both.My RV thermostat is powered by the RV 12 volt system.
OP is having issue with the A/C and low battery voltage.
No need to cover all RVs until the OP has the issue resolved.
Maybe you should address this to the previous poster who believes RV thermostats run on small batteries rather than the person who pointed out that it was likely a 12V battery problem.
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jkwilson
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07/02/22 10:39pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Would this be a power converter issue??
Your air conditioner uses 12V too. I suspect your converter has failed or the battery has a shorted cell.
How does an air conditioner use 12v? They are powered by 120v AC power and most thermostats are powered by little AA/AAA batteries.
Most thermostats are not powered by AA or AAA batteries, and even when they are the HVAC is still controlled by 12VDC because the furnace doesn’t use AC power and the thermostat controls both.
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jkwilson
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07/02/22 08:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Would this be a power converter issue??
Your air conditioner uses 12V too. I suspect your converter has failed or the battery has a shorted cell.
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jkwilson
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07/02/22 07:10pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Harbor Freight Predator 3500
The same generator is sold by Northern Tool as the Powerhorse and by Echo with their branding good generator at a great price. There is a FB group with good information.Just search for Harbor Freight Predator 3500
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jkwilson
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06/16/22 05:35pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Yellowstone NP roads and entrance closures
Latest word is that the North entrance will not open again this season. Because the remaining entrances can't handle the flow, there will have to be some kind of reservation system implemented for the remainder of the year.
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jkwilson
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06/14/22 07:15pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Battery question???? XXXX UPDATE XXXXX
Just to be clear here, the manufacturer specifies the charger output voltage is 29.6V. 14.8 +15.2 is more than the charger is supposed to put out.
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jkwilson
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06/12/22 08:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery question???? XXXX UPDATE XXXXX
They need to be "Equalized" how to do that on your system I do not know. I know how I'd do it but it requires hooking them in parallel to a DIFFERENT charger.
Don’t equalize AGMs. It will damage them.
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jkwilson
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06/12/22 08:09am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery question???? XXXX UPDATE XXXXX
An AGM full charge resting voltage may be a little higher than 12.7V. Most are around 12.8V, with some like the Optima at 13.1V. The charger for your scooter is supposed to produce 29.6V while charging. That’s 14.8V per battery. Seems likely you have a charger problem, though having two batteries in series showing different voltages after charging with a single charger would also indicate some difference in the batteries that bears watching.
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jkwilson
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06/12/22 07:10am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Hughes Auto PWD50
Thanks all,
I am not very knowledgeable on what all those type of devices do. I remember looking at I guess an "autoformer" for double the price. From your alls comments for complete protection go the autoformer route.
Thanks
An autoformer is a booster for low voltage. Protection of the RV from wiring or power system problems comes from an EMS. Protection from lightning or power system incidents comes from a surge protector.
For best protection in a Hughes product, you want the EPO version of their Power Watchdog which incorporates an EMS and a surge protector. They also offer a voltage booster (autoformer) with integrated surge protection but no EMS function to handle low supply voltage situations.
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jkwilson
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06/05/22 06:49am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trailer Brakes
How do you know the controller isn’t activating the brakes? Did you use a compass or listen for the hum at the wheels?
DC does not "hum", "buzz", "sing" or play any tune, you will not hear a thing.
Newer brake controllers while they do employ PWM to control the braking output operates at a very reduced output when you are sitting still. Even the manual lever output is reduced and does not apply full braking voltage when sitting still.
Even on older brake controllers, I never had any luck getting a compass to give a decent repeatable indication. There is a huge chunk of iron (drum) between the magnet and your compass. That drum absorbs and redirects a lot of the magnetic fields generated by the electro magnet and by the time it gets to your compass is very, very weak.
What I have found as 100% reliable way to trouble shoot is to jack up one side at a time and roll the wheels by hand and pull the break away pin. Wheels must stop as soon as the pin is pulled.
The breakaway system is supposed to apply full battery voltage from the trailer battery to the trailer brake magnets, if the breakaway system isn't working, then very good chance your truck system isn't going to make the brakes work either (IE trailer wiring problem)..
Put pin back in and you should now be able to roll the wheels by hand again. If they don't stop, then you need to access the wires behind each backing plate and verify that you have or don't have voltage with the breakaway pin pulled (note, the magnets are not going to melt either as per another Internet myth).
No voltage at backing plate then you have a break before the axles.
Voltage at the backing plate then you need to check the mechanicals behind the drum.
If you lift in the correct place, you can lift both wheels on the same side at a time.
Turn your flashers on with brake gain high. You’ll hear the magnets.
I have a 2013, 2019 and 2020 F250s, that does not happen.
Your flashers have zero to do with the IBC brake controller on Fords, you can turn up the gain to the max on the Ford IBC and while you are sitting still the controller will reduce the output even using the manual control. The flashers will not override the brake controller. The reason for that is when you are still, there is zero reason to apply full braking voltage.
Perhaps maybe if you turned on your windshield wipers and hummed "I love a rainy night" perhaps the brakes might hum with you?
Ford IBC folds back the braking output according to speed and that includes the use of the manual over ride.
It is done for your safety so you do not accidentally over apply electric brakes manually while driving at low speeds.
DC does not make a sound and even with the newer IBC controllers which use PWM to control the output any noise possibly made will be "solo" (so low you can't hear it).. The PWM is done typically at a high frequency which will be above human hearing range (young adult hearing range tops out at 20Khz, PWM typically will be above 20Khz).
Trailer brake magnets make a very distinctive sound when the brakes are applied. You are 100% wrong. It’s loud enough to hear it standing near a parked trailer. If you’d care to bet on it, I’d be in for any amount you want to lose.
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jkwilson
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05/30/22 09:03am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trailer Brakes
How do you know the controller isn’t activating the brakes? Did you use a compass or listen for the hum at the wheels?
DC does not "hum", "buzz", "sing" or play any tune, you will not hear a thing.
Newer brake controllers while they do employ PWM to control the braking output operates at a very reduced output when you are sitting still. Even the manual lever output is reduced and does not apply full braking voltage when sitting still.
Even on older brake controllers, I never had any luck getting a compass to give a decent repeatable indication. There is a huge chunk of iron (drum) between the magnet and your compass. That drum absorbs and redirects a lot of the magnetic fields generated by the electro magnet and by the time it gets to your compass is very, very weak.
What I have found as 100% reliable way to trouble shoot is to jack up one side at a time and roll the wheels by hand and pull the break away pin. Wheels must stop as soon as the pin is pulled.
The breakaway system is supposed to apply full battery voltage from the trailer battery to the trailer brake magnets, if the breakaway system isn't working, then very good chance your truck system isn't going to make the brakes work either (IE trailer wiring problem)..
Put pin back in and you should now be able to roll the wheels by hand again. If they don't stop, then you need to access the wires behind each backing plate and verify that you have or don't have voltage with the breakaway pin pulled (note, the magnets are not going to melt either as per another Internet myth).
No voltage at backing plate then you have a break before the axles.
Voltage at the backing plate then you need to check the mechanicals behind the drum.
If you lift in the correct place, you can lift both wheels on the same side at a time.
Turn your flashers on with brake gain high. You’ll hear the magnets.
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jkwilson
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05/29/22 08:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trailer Brakes
Thanks for the replies.
And I should have been more clear. I actually hooked up the trailer to the truck and pulled it down a few streets, fully applying the brake controller, then applying the foot brake. Both a few times. Absolutely no resistance at all, either method.
Marv
You have two things to check: Electrical power reaching the magnets and shoes adjusted properly.
To check power, you can hold a compass near the drum just under the center of the wheel and look for deflection when the brakes are applied.
Adjusting the brakes is a little more work and requires jacking up the trailer. This is recommended every 3,000 miles, so it’s possible for the brakes to fairly quickly reach the point they don’t do any braking without regular maintenance.
If neither of those steps help, it’s not unlikely the brakes are contaminated from overgreasing at the factory or later via using a grease zerk on the axle. Determining if this is the issue requires hub disassembly, but if you have any doubts about the brake or bearing condition it’s a good idea to open it up and look.
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jkwilson
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05/29/22 06:35am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Trailer Brakes
How do you know the controller isn’t activating the brakes? Did you use a compass or listen for the hum at the wheels?
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jkwilson
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05/28/22 06:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Remember to keep alert while driving..
I think your decision to just drive through was a good one. Tires are easier to fix than you or your truck.
You mention you “just knew” the car was there. A good driver with experience in interstate traffic is aware of what’s going on all around them and doesn’t have to check mirrors much before making a decision. I drove through the heart of a major city which includes an intersection of three interstates at least twice a day during rush hour while I was in college. You learn to feel the traffic and also to recognize other drivers who are out of their element.
Actually plenty of straps, they just should have had even stacks so the stacks were more stable and the angles were better. Looks like the strap came unanchored on the left front. Hauling light stuff worries me as much or more than heavy stuff.
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jkwilson
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05/28/22 07:26am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: New Outside Stairs
Another vote for the Torklift Glowstep Revolution - they are great steps, easy to deploy and they have adjustable supports for uneven ground. It took me about 20 minutes to make the change.
Another vote for them from me. I was able to install them by myself in about 15 minutes. They fold into the factory step well and are much easier on my knees than the higher, bouncier factory steps.
Takes just a little practice to learn to adjust them, but a big improvement for me, especially when loading and unloading the trailer or working on something where I’m up and down the stairs dozens of times in a day.
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jkwilson
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05/28/22 07:19am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Yuma
Shade in Yuma? There’s a concept. Sam’s Club has covered parking there because palm trees aren’t much on shade.
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jkwilson
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05/10/22 02:14pm |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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RE: Practicality of non-propane Camper
Two comments:
-- NEVER needed a generator. But my largest draw is the air conditioner and I can only do a short time before I would probably need shore power to replenish.
-- Would not consider electric heat. I use diesel. Diesel or gasoline are MUCH more energy dense than propane. (And using diesel or gasoline eliminates the need to carry multiple adapters for gas fittings in different countries.)
A number of new builds are using a heat exchanger for hot water. Water typically stays hot for two/three days after driving.
The systems on my truck are typical of expedition campers.
Two commercial examples are:
Aeon
Nimbl
T
Not completely disagreeing, but if you use diesel or gas for heat you aren’t all electric anymore than someone that uses propane, and if you need shore power to recover from overnight air conditioner use you might as well run a small generator.
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jkwilson
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05/06/22 12:03pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Can someone help design a 5 volt circuit
A return is generally the negative terminal of the power source, not where power goes into something, so I’m not sure what you are trying to accomplish.
If you need to feed the 5V out to what you have labelled 5V return ( which I would not do unless you are certain that’s how it works) just put a switch between them and turn it on when you need it.
For the circuit you have drawn to work, the 5V return would need to be the negative output of the 5V supply, but your circuit won’t do anything. Since you have no info about the rated power output of the computer or the coil resistance of the relay, it might burn up the computer
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jkwilson
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04/22/22 06:26pm |
Tech Issues
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US23 Between Toledo and Flint
We are heading from Southern Indiana to the west coast of Lake Huron north of Saginaw Bay pulling the 5th wheel. Normally do I69 to Flint and catch I75 there. Google says there is a closure on I69 and recommends going to Toledo and taking US23 north from there.
Never been on the road. From Google, it looks like a four lane limited access. Any input? Thanks!
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jkwilson
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04/17/22 03:17pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: RV sulfur smell
Sounds like the water has high iron content. All the chlorine does is mask the smell. Frankly I'd rather live with the smell than deal with the chlorine. I would suggest a 2 stage filter on the inlet to the RV. One stage a sacrificial particulate filter and the second stage a carbon filter. That should solve the problem. The carbon will remove the chlorine (provided it's actually chlorine and not chloramine - you need catalytic carbon for that).
Something like this:
2 stage filter
If you are drinking the water however, I would opt for an RO. Something small under the sink or a Burkey gravity fed RO.
The smell is generated by bacteria that thrive in iron-rich water. The chlorine kills the bacteria, which can, and usually does, eliminate the smell for a significant time. We have had wells with the problem for almost 35 years, and conventional filters are not useful for the sulfur smell, though they will stop the chlorine taste/smell. We have a green sand tank, followed by carbon for all indoor water and then RO after those for drinking water. We still need to shock the well with a couple of gallons of 12% bleach a couple of times a year to control the odor.
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jkwilson
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04/16/22 09:33am |
General RVing Issues
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