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 > Your search for posts made by 'jodeb720' found 46 matches.

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RE: Blocking "Restricted" Calls on Smartphone

you guys are missing all the fun. They call - and I know they are telemarketers after the hello. I wait until they say hello and then I start "Hello, Are you calling about the snowblower I have listed on craigslist?" they reply "uh, no" "well you're really lucky - i'm willing to knock 25.00 off the listed price, all I need is your bank account number and routing number and of course your Social for verification" CLICK
jodeb720 01/05/21 10:15pm Technology Corner
RE: Comcast to charge extra for exceeding 1.2 TB data

almost all the providers have some limits with their plans. Look at the phone companies (e.g. Verizon, ATT, etc) they all have limits on how much data we can consume on our mobile devices. I know, I know, they are "unlimited" but when they throttle, you're now limited. Nam is correct about 1.2TB being consumed now that we're all working remotely and having video conference calls - plus all the other things we use for data in our households. I will point out that comcast does have a truly unlimited data plan, but you have to pay for that at an additional fee. Personally, I'm waiting to see what Starlink does for Data caps (or if they actually implement them). I see that being the future for all of us RVers. Take your antenna with you from the sticks & bricks and off we go on our adventure with no break in service. We'll have internet just as we do for satellite TV in remote locations.
jodeb720 12/25/20 07:55am Technology Corner
RE: Latest Dish News Blackout ???

Having been both a directv and dish customer, I struggle to understand how these media conglomerates think they are going to continue to charge companies like DTV, Dish and the cable companies - when companies like Locast are streaming the same product for free. As Starlink and other vendors expand their coverage, I can see a time where satellite based broadcast companies are going to be losing market share for two reasons. 1. Cost - why pay for the service when you can get it for free? 2. Cord Cutters. We all pay for internet - which we use for various reasons (work, email, streaming, etc). Starlink is still in it infancy, and for 99.00 a month - it's not quite cost effective to cut the cord and buy ala carte. Depending on what Starlink ultimately costs, it may spell the end of Satellite broadcasting. Personally, after a lengthy discussion with my customer service 'friends' at Dish, I cut the cord and went with other solutions (e.g. Locast, philo, and Pluto tv. I have 99% of what I had for just a little bit less than what I was paying for with Dish - that includes the cost of my internet at the house. If starlink pans out, I'll dump comcast and then I can be completely mobile by taking my starlink dish on the road as I'm out RVing. Until then, when I go, I use my pay as I go with Dish. Indirectly, these media conglomerates are going to put the other vendors out of business (e.g. DTV, Dish, and Cable companies TV rebroadcasting). I don't think it's in their best interest because it's all about subscription based advertising - and with many cord cutters paying for premium services (e.g. Disney +) the advertising revenue is diminishing for them. Many of the next generation are never going to have a single provider (e.g. Dish, DTV, Cable Companies) and that will drive the advertising revenue away from the media conglomerates and onto platforms like Google, Facebook and other social media outlets.
jodeb720 12/23/20 10:36am Technology Corner
RE: Painting the Walls of the 5er

we wiped down the walls first with soapy water Then we wiped down the walls with TSP - and then she painted it. Then I got involved, and we sanded all the walls - pulling most of the paint out - but there were places I could peel the paint off. wiped htem down again, two coats of paint and now... sigh, wallpaper. happy wife happy life. At least the paint & wall paper won't fall off!!!
jodeb720 11/10/20 10:11pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Suburban Furnace Question

Not to beat a horse to death but..... I’m at the RV and it turnout the plenum that runs from the heater (passenger to drivers) isn’t closed on the driver send - and I can’t feel the passengers side without removing the chloroplast. So as Time2roll suggested I’ve been crawling around looking for a path to put 4” ducts. It’s going to be ugly but it’s a better option than messing with the plenum under the coach and hoping it works. Now I wait until I get the upstairs finished and I can remove the stove and get to area to run the duct. Thanks
jodeb720 11/08/20 03:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Suburban Furnace Question

@Time2roll - I think you've hit the nail on the head. I'm trying to reuse the existing vents but that may not be the best solution. I'm going under the rig today to look to see what's below the existing vents and access to the vents. I'll need to run at least one 4" vent to the rear floor vent so it may be easier to run a single 6" plenum and T off it for each vent. I'll know more later today. Love the idea though. The install manual stipulates 56 Sq. Inches of return - and the current "grill" is 216. I'm thinking I can do two things - one is reduce the return to something like 60" and two is to baffle the flow of the air so the sound of the fan doesn't have a direct path into the rest of the rig. Again, thanks all for the ideas. josh
jodeb720 11/08/20 10:04am Tech Issues
RE: Tire Valve Stem Cracking

i've had my share of challenges with China Bomb's over the years. Not once was it due to the stems failing, but the tires inflated correctly but the sun had done it's damage. The last time I replaced my tires (2019) I replaced them when they were 36 months old. At the time, I asked them to replace my valve stems with Metal versus the typical rubber. The one difference I've seen is there has been substantially less air leakage while the tires sit idle for a few months. The amount of air lost is about 8-10 pounds over a 4 month sitting. My next set will be goodyear endurance (I think that's the brand). oh - just to be clear, before each trip, I check the lug nuts for torque and tire pressure - so I'm within 5% of the rated amount just to be sure they don't blow out due to underinflation. I learned that one on my first trailer the hard way.
jodeb720 11/07/20 06:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Painting the Walls of the 5er

Gbopp - Thanks so much for confirming my suspicion. I went back to the trailer today, and was able to sand the walls - with some 60 grit to pull the paint off and then rough up the walls. What shocked my wife was when I took a scraper blade, and just pushed it up the wall, and the paint peeled off like it was held on with a static charge. She was shocked. So, after a few hours of sanding, and elbow grease, and more hand sanding and scraping, it's all roughed up, repainted, windows and doors cut in, and ready for wallpaper. thanks so much for the prompt reply! josh
jodeb720 11/07/20 05:57pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Suburban Furnace Question

first let me thank all of you for the responses and letting me know i'm on the right track. @KTMRFS - when we first got the rig, the flexible duct (as you described) was punctured by an overly aggressive wife who wanted her chairs to stack in a certain way. I did exactly what you suggested - right pipe with insulation around it. Alas, no difference - but you and I were/are thinking along the same line. @Stircrazy - i have a 2" output pipe that blows under the rig to protect the tanks. I went so far as to cap it off to see if it made a difference - it didn't. Again, you and I were thinking the same thing. @Opnspaces - I can't access the plenum. It's sandwiched between the linoleum (on top) and a piece of wood underneath the plenum. based on the leakage my AC has - I'll bet the thin aluminum tape they used to seal the sections together are torn and leaking, badly. Unfortunately, I can't access the plenum (based on some youtube videos of how the coaches are built today. I think, and that was my question regarding the sq. inches of ducting - that my best result is to open three 4" ducts into a single plenum - either 6 or 8" which is much more than required (56 sq inches), and split it off into 3 4" ducts. One for the upper area - two for the lower. But, I think I'm going to have to go under the coach to feed the two vents that exist - cut through the floor plenum and bypass it completely. The good news they are standard 4x10 vents so the big box stores all stock the standard duct work. I can probably find insulated pipes as well which will retain more of the heat (when I need it). One thought is that I can use those Dryer vents (4" round to a square body and then back to a 4" round) and if I use a couple of those, I can connect those into a larger duct - but since they are facing the inside of the rig I don't have enough room for 2 4" round ducts. Again, if my math is correct ,as long as the total number of sq inches equal the manual (36 sq inches for 3 4" ducts) then I should be able to imagineer this together and still be within manufacturer specs. Does anyone see anything wrong with my math? Thanks so much! josh
jodeb720 11/07/20 05:53pm Tech Issues
Painting the Walls of the 5er

My wife convinced me last summer to paint the inside of the trailer. As I've read multiple times the process is as follows: 1. Lightly sand the walls with electric sander - mechanical adhesion. 2. Wipe down the walls with water 3. Wipe down the walls with TSP 4. Rinse walls - removing the TSP. 5. Prime & Paint. Tried and true. This morning I was told that the sanding was never done, and when she was pulling back the painters tape, it was peeling off. I'm at a cross roads. She wants to put up wall paper on two of the walls - which will stick to the paint. My question is this: Will the freeze/thaw and movement of the walls cause the paint to peel and I'll be redoing this in 6 months or do I need to sand off the paint, and then reprime/paint the walls? Thoughts? Thanks Josh
jodeb720 11/07/20 07:39am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Suburban Furnace Question

I have a Suburban Furnace Model SF-30F. Since I've owned my 5er, it's never really put out a lot of hot air from the floor vents. A few years ago, I pulled off the return grill and found the majority of the air is going into a plenum located under the front - bottom of the unit, under the floor and then the plenum runs under the entire bottom of the 5er -with a 4" connection under the stairs feeding the upper area. At that point in time, I turned on the fan, and felt the volume but it didn't add up to what was coming out of the vents. Since my ordeal last fall (2019) my wife and I have had to rebuild the upper area and we're doing a full renovation. Today, I pulled the furnace front off, when I fired up the heaterand it filled the entire coach (200sq ft) of space in about 5 minutes from 60 to 70 degrees. If I use the ducts that would normally take about 15 minutes. here's what I'm thinking. 1. where the current heated air is pushed under the unit into the plenum, block it with a piece of sheet metal. 2. Put a 4" residential output pipe out of the unit, and then connect it under the stairs, connecting it to a "T" and having it going out under the floor - and then connecting to the two other vents. 3. This would bypass the plenum (which I'm sure is leaking under the Rig in the floor) and I'd get much more heated air. in the installation manual - it stipulates a return minimum of 56 Sq Inches - On the ducts it's a bit confusing. For Side Ducts it's 36 sq inches and 3 ducts. For the bottom/top it's 56 sq inches. Since I am considering closing off the bottom duct (and I'm assuming that's 56 sq inches because it was done by Keystone) I would need to use 3 - 4" ducts (1 -4" duct is 12.5 sq inches) to equal the 36 inches required by the manufacturer. My question is this. Can I aggregate of the two ducts or do I need to run three separate ducts? I'm thinking of aggregating the 2 of the three ducts into a single 6" duct (6" duct has 28-1/4" sq inches). Thanks in advance! Josh
jodeb720 11/06/20 09:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Domestic electric water heaters

30+ years ago, my good friend who had a 75 Nomad - parked in the desert (never to be moved again) had his water heater die. We plumbed in a 10 gallon under the sink, 110volt water heater and it worked for years. Eventually we repaired the existing water heater control valve and when we plumbed it back in, we had the tap water going to the propane water heater, then into the electric unit. That way, if we needed additional hot water, we had 20 gallons at our disposal. Now the thing you have to remember is the Trailer was never going to move - and was connected to 120v all the time. YMMV Josh
jodeb720 09/27/20 10:52pm Tech Issues
RE: AC toast?

Once the snow settles down, I'll go check the capacitors (excluding the start capactors). I have a friend who is an HAVC guy - but in order to test it, i'll have to pull the unit from the trailer and take it up to his house (it's an hour away) to see what's going on with it. Can you check the wiring on the compressor to determine if it's toast? for example, on some of the motors, you can check the resistance of the stator and if the resistance is more than 'x' then you know it's done. Of course, if it's done, then I can look for a more efficient unit that uses less current. I know there's some "high efficiency" units that are being made now - so that may be something to investigate.
jodeb720 09/08/20 09:01am Tech Issues
RE: AC toast?

Old-Biscuit - it's a 20amp circuit. Don - yup it's a lesson learned. The one question I have is when I bring it home and do connect it to a 20 amp circuit - how can I tell if it's the compressor or if it's one of the start/run capacitors? I'm wondering if one of the "support" devices within the unit failed and that's why it's not able to kick the compressor over.
jodeb720 09/07/20 10:42pm Tech Issues
AC toast?

My wife and I are in the process of doing a makeover on our 5er. We keep our rv in a storage yard and conveniently, there is power. It was in the upper 90's so i dutifully checked the voltage - it was 120 spot on! terrific. I fired up the AC, shut down all the other things in the trailer (converter, etc) and then proceeded to let the AC run. After about an hour it was comfortable at 83 and we were busy gutting the carpet and preparing the floor. Then the AC compressor shut off. Hmmm fan stayed on, but no compressor. So I shut it down and let it sit for 10 minutes - thinking it was cycling. 10 Minutes later I turned it on, but the compressor didn't kick in. again, I let it sit for about 5 minutes, and at that point, I connected my voltmeter and turned it on. The voltage dropped to 95 volts. Now this is the same power cable I've used when i'm camping so I know it's not a cable issue - and yes, it has a dog bone, but again, I've used this at parks and checked it there as well. I'm thinking low voltage, hot weather and it may have toasted the compressor. I did try to start it today running my honda 2000, with the eco off - but no luck. It overloaded the honda. it does have a supco hard start kit I installed 10 years ago - I need to get the model number (it's a coleman mach - don't know if it's a mach III or not). I'm thinking it may be toast - Thoughts? Thanks in advance! josh
jodeb720 09/07/20 08:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Dish Update

@techwriter - I couldn't agree more.
jodeb720 08/29/20 07:49am Technology Corner
Dish Update

Just a follow up on the dish not giving their discounts - for existing customers. I've read through this, and today, I reached out to dish to cut off the service at my S&B. Once I held for the 25+ minutes, the Customer Service Rep and I had a great chat - and offered to restore all my discounts that I had under my previous billing cycle. The unfortunate part of it, I had already done my research and found that what I wanted (channel lineup) was available, via streaming - at one sixth the cost. The point is, if you're losing your discounts, call to request them being reinstated and if they cancel, then call the 800 number to cancel your service and they will reinstate the discounts. Just sharing my own experience. Stay Safe, josh
jodeb720 08/26/20 10:48pm Technology Corner
RE: Slide-Out Roller

I have the same problem as Scott. The center of my slider has sagged and rubs. I've tried adjusting the slide arms up, but the metal that lifts the slide is twisting and needs a coupel of gussets welded in, but I digress. i bought a roller from Lippert - and mounted it in the center (it's extremly low profile). it does, sorta work, but I need more of them and for the price, I'm actively looking on mcmaster carr to see what they have that I can imagineer a a better solution. Josh
jodeb720 08/08/20 11:13pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: electrician question: voltage drop at outlet to TT

I had my 5er out in front of the house a few weeks ago I put my volt meter in a few of the outlets and found it between 120 and 121 consistently. I turn on the AC and it dropped immediately down to 112 and hung in there, but as time went, the voltage dropped to 109, then 108. That's when I switched it off. I had a roll of 12gauge wire in the basement, unrolled it out for the 35' I needed put a couple of 20amp rated plug heads on it and connected the 5er's dogbone to the 30 amp plug and tried again. The voltage started out exactly the same - 120-121, but as the AC started to work harder, the voltage did drop but only down to 113 - 112 and stayed there. Bottom line, the 12gauge extension cord which is 50' long wasn't able to handle the current needed by my ac. Now, I know there's some out there who will tell me that's not legit - and they are correct, but for an emergency, and not wanting to damage my AC unit, I'll go with it. As it was, because the AC was on, I finished reassembling the inside of my 5er after a major repair and we were able to use it for the weekend (first time in 8 months).
jodeb720 08/08/20 10:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Hard Start kits: Supco SPP6 vs. Dometic #3310727.015

The thing missing from this thread that didn't exist is the MicroStart technology - which didn't exist in 2014 and does now. While I've not added one in lieu of my Supco unit - all the folks on this site speak favorably about it. One thing to remember, as temperature climbs, so does the demand for electricity (in terms of Amp draw). Generators lose 10% of their available output every 1000'. Increase the temperature, and elevation and you're losing the ability to provide enough energy to drive the AC unit. I'm not sure how the Microstart can (or does) mitigate that lower power output from the generator due to elevation and increase demand from the compressor due to temperature increase.
jodeb720 08/08/20 09:50am Tech Issues
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