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 > Your search for posts made by 'jornvango' found 17 matches.

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RE: Battery problem

Update: replaced the car battery and, even on mornings when it's teens outside, the car starts fine.
jornvango 12/06/20 05:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Tire pressure

Update: I replaced the other tire too so now have two load range E tires on the Casita.
jornvango 12/06/20 05:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Tire pressure

This article seems to indicate that having one tire being a higher load range is ok, as long as you inflate it to the same psi as the other tire. In my case: inflating the E tire not to 80 but to load range C psi = 50. https://www.rvtiresafety.net/2013/01/can-i-mix-load-range.html?m=1 "If you are replacing the failed or damaged tire with a higher Load Range you can run it as if it was of the lower Load Range."
jornvango 11/26/20 04:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Tire pressure

Thanks. Yes, original 15 inch rim: it says "max load ...lbs E". I can't read the exact lbs but since it's original, the Casita trailer didn't suddenly get heavier. Casita originally has load range C so E being able to carry more weight, I thought it would be ok. Not sure why having one tire with the ability to carry more weight is an issue? Does someone know? P.S. Both tires are 5 ply.
jornvango 11/26/20 04:25pm Tech Issues
Tire pressure

Our Casita has one axle. The tire on the left is a newer Hi-Run load range E with max cold psi 80. The tire on the right is an older (unused) spare Goodyear Marathon load range C with max cold psi 50. Is there any recommendation for psi? I was thinking 50 psi in the Goodyear and 80 in the Hi-Run. Just thought I'd check as I have never had two different load range tires on a trailer with different psi... Thanks!
jornvango 11/26/20 02:20pm Tech Issues
What's a good battery level monitor?

What's a good monitor that I can install in my Casita to see the battery level throughout the day? Ideally a monitor that draws minimal power since we boondock frequently. When we're camping in an RV park with hookups, I'd like to see once in a while how much voltage the converter is sending to the battery. While boondocking, we hook up our portable solar panel and I can see the battery level by going outside to look at the solar panel controller, but I'd like to have a monitor inside the Casita. Thanks!
jornvango 11/17/20 04:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Is my converter dead?

Update: I installed a new Progressive Dynamics converter series 4600 today and everything is working again. I also installed the optional remote control for the converter which shows what the converter is doing at any given moment (what stage of charging it is in). Before I installed the converter, the battery was a 12.6V (thanks to the solar panel). Once I turned on the new converter, it jumped to 13.4V and it's been in the converter's 'normal' stage of charging since then.
jornvango 11/17/20 04:16pm Tech Issues
RE: How to test rv converter?

Update: I installed a new Progressive Dynamics converter series 4600 today and everything is working again. I also installed the optional remote control for the converter which shows what the converter is doing at any given moment (what stage of charging it is in). Before I installed the converter, the battery was a 12.6V (thanks to the solar panel). Once I turned on the new converter, it jumped to 13.4V and it's been in the converter's 'normal' stage of charging since then.
jornvango 11/17/20 04:15pm Tech Issues
RE: How to test rv converter?

Do not have to remove it. Just disconnect the output wires. Turn on the converter and measure the empty output lugs. Not rocket science. I disconnected the 2 positive cables from the electric panel. I assume one of these cables goes to the battery, the other the converter. One cable showed 12.6 (which is the current battery level), the other cable shows 0.00V
jornvango 11/15/20 03:16pm Tech Issues
How to test rv converter?

Is it possible to test whether your RV converter is working (= keeping the battery charged) by using a multi-meter? I don't think our rv's converter is charging the 12V AGM battery. I checked: 1. Two fuses for the converter on electric panel are good 2. While unplugged from shore power: Multi-meter at battery shows 12.6V which also shows on the solar controller, and same reading shows with multi-meter at battery cables leaving from the electric panel. 3. While plugged into 30A shore power, same readings show as above. To me, it's as if the converter is not doing anything: on shore power, I would expect the battery level to jump up to around 13.5 or higher. Side note: the converter fan does come on once in a while. The converter is 11 years old. How can I easily test if it's dead?
jornvango 11/14/20 12:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Is my converter dead?

When I connect the running car, the battery level jumps up to 13V (so it's charging). When I unplug the car, battery goes back down to 12.2 so it appears the converter isn't doing anything. No, the old (now dead) battery was AGM so no one has touched that battery since I installed it in Jan '19.
jornvango 11/11/20 11:10pm Tech Issues
Is my converter dead?

We are camped in a full hookup RV park with our Casita trailer. After going out for errands this afternoon, we returned to our trailer to find everything in the trailer dead. The fridge, lights, ... all dead. Here's what I did: 1) I checked the campground 30A pedestal and it was OK. 2) Then I unplugged the electrical cord from the pedestal to see if our RV battery would get everything going again: no deal. Everything still dead. 3) I checked the battery with my multi-meter and nothing, dead. 4) I checked the converter's fuses in the RV and both fuses had blown. I changed out both 30A fuses. 5) Thinking at this point that the converter died sometime these past few days, I replaced the RV battery. OK, everything (fridge, lighting) is working again. The battery I bought at Autozone shows 12.2V so it's a little low. 6) I plugged the RV back into the 30A campground pedestal and the battery still shows 12.2V so it looks like the converter isn't charging the RV battery. I checked the fuses and they're OK. I checked the RV electrical panel and used my multi-meter to test the battery cables leaving from the panel (to go to the batteries): 12.2V so this (I think) tells me the converter isn't charging the battery. 7) Final note: throughout all this time, the camper's 110V outlets worked, even before I replaced the dead battery. I think I have two questions: Question 1: My electrical knowledge is (very) low so, based on the above, am I correct to assume that the converter is dead? For the time being, I plugged in our portable solar panel to keep the RV battery charged and we're still plugged into the RV park pedestal so we can charge our laptops and devices using the 110V outlets in the RV. Question 2: when the fridge is turned to 'gas', it uses propane and a minimum of battery power to run. When I plug the RV into the 30A park pedestal, the fridge automatically switches to 'AC'. Does this run on 110V OR does this use the battery? Reason I ask is that until we can get the converter replaced, I want to minimize RV battery usage since our solar panel is pretty small. I don't want to have the fridge on 'AC' if that uses the battery for its entire operation. Thanks!!
jornvango 11/11/20 08:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery problem

We have been to Autozone / O'Reilly's multiple times and every time the battery, alternator and starter tested 'good'. Question- did they remove the battery and do a full load test? Just checking the static voltage in the car right after driving it only tells you that the battery has a surface charge and that the alternator works. A specific gravity test (hydrometer) was suggested but that's a little tough (impossible) to do on a sealed battery. I'm with the others, the battery is almost four years old and is toast. Thanks. No, what they do is attach their testing tool while the battery is in its regular place. While monitoring the past few days in mild overnight temps, the car starts fine. For example, the past 2 days, we didn't drive the car and it started fine. Battery was at 11.9V before we started it, which probably means there's nothing drawing it very low while we're not using the car. Which also probably means that it's a battery problem then as many have suggested ... time to replace.
jornvango 11/06/20 07:19pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Battery problem

You should get a battery charger and charge the battery up fully. Also, if the battery and charging system test good, perhaps there is something drawing the battery down overnight. We ended up driving a few hours today. Upon arrival at our campsite, the battery showed 12.2 and a few seconds later 12.0 Is there any way to test if there is a draw on the battery while the car is turned off?
jornvango 11/03/20 03:26pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Battery problem

Family member has a Tahoe that is a few years older that had a similar problem. Turned out to be in the instrument panel so a complete replacement was the fix. Would a 'complete replacement' mean replacing the Tahoe, its instrument panel or just the battery? :@
jornvango 11/03/20 03:24pm Tow Vehicles
Battery problem

2013 Chevy Tahoe with 120K miles. Battery was last replaced Jan '17. For the past 8 months, especially after a cold night or when we haven't driven the car for a day or two, the car shows low battery level indicator and has trouble starting (but hasn't left us stranded ... yet). A few months ago my wife left an interior light on which drained the battery enough so the car didn't start. We charged it by hooking up our solar panel to recharge it. A few days ago after a very cold night (10 F), the battery was so low (as indicated by the gage on the dash) that it barely started. Yesterday morning, after overnight temps around 35 F, again the battery level gage showed low and the car barely started. We have been to Autozone / O'Reilly's multiple times and every time the battery, alternator and starter tested 'good'. This morning I plugged a volt meter into the car. It again had trouble starting. Here are the readouts: 1. Before car start in the morning 12.0 V 2. During start 10.8 V 3. Started the car and during driving 14.7V 4. Stopped the car after driving 30 mins 12.5V 5. After 1 hour of not running 12.2 V Any idea what is going on? It reallyfeels like one of these mornings the car is not going to start which will be a problem if we're camping off grid. Thanks!
jornvango 11/03/20 02:20pm Tow Vehicles
Water heater keeps stopping

For a while now, our water heater has been acting up. When we turn on the switch, it clicks on and we hear the familiar propane burning sound. Repeatedly, then after a minute or so, a click sounds and the propane burning noise stops. A minute or so silence, then a clicking sound and the propane burning noise again. This continues for several cycles (all the while the water heater light inside the RV stays on) until hopefully the heater stays on and we can take a shower 20 minutes later. Any idea what is causing this? Some part that is failing? Thanks.
jornvango 06/22/20 12:01pm Tech Issues
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