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 > Your search for posts made by 'jseyfert3' found 45 matches.

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RE: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

I got an OTC hydrometer finally. The first one the float was broke, so Amazon had to send a replacement. I haven't yet checked the batteries, I will do that this weekend. I decided to go with the PowerMax 60 A converter. I could see it was just a simple 3/4 turn trim pot. I opened it up, which was super easy as they didn't bolt anything to the cover, and upgrading that to a nice multi-turn external pot will be cakewalk, as it's a single sided PCB. Also with the exception of the control board, everything is big beefy through hole components, so if anything breaks it shouldn't be terribly hard to troubleshoot and repair. Which is good, given how upgrading the voltage adjustment pot will void the warranty.z I'll check and likely equalize my batteries later this weekend, now that I have the converter and hydrometer. This is probably my last post in this thread, but I just wanted to update for those interested. I'll post under the "DIY Upgrades" forum once I actually get my setup installed in my TT. Thanks again for all the suggestions and information!
jseyfert3 11/22/19 10:11am Tech Issues
RE: Super duper plug in code scanner w. WiFi?

Not so much the OBD-II To Blue Tooth/Wi-Fi adapter (mine is BT) but the software on the display device.. I have used TORQUE (Free) and Torque (pro) It monitors every sensor I have (or so it appears) and gives me the ability to reset fault codes.. (not sure free does that). NOW.. there are still some things that take a pro's unit to find. but so far the only time I've encountered anything like that. It also required special hardware to run the test not just the scanner. Torque Free lets you reset codes. Pro unlocks some extra features that free doesn't have. For example, I knew my Honda Pilot had a transmission temp sensor cause the dashboard has a transmission overtemp light. With Torque Pro I could enter the custom PID needed to "unlock" the sensor so I could monitor the temp.
jseyfert3 11/18/19 06:16pm Tech Issues
RE: convection oven not cooking

When I first moved out of my parents house (10 years ago) I bought a convection microwave for my apartment (I forget which brand). I thought it would be a great idea for an apartment. It was not. Despite being able to select a temp up to 450 °F, it never got above 350 and it took 45 minutes to even get that hot. I put a pizza in and it dropped and slowly climbed back to 325 and stopped climbing. I sent it back to Amazon and got my refund.
jseyfert3 11/18/19 02:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Is this normal for a 30 amp breaker

We're talking about TT AC units not household or commercial units. My trailer AC unit is on a 15 amp breaker. If that has a 50 to 60 amp draw at start up, there is something wrong. Doesn't really matter what size motor it is, unless it has a soft start or VFD it's going to have a huge inrush current as a proportion of the running current. Here's a quote from Cooper (manufacturer of fuses and circuit breakers): When an AC motor is energized, a high inrush current occurs. Typically, during the initial half cycle, the inrush current is often higher than 20 times the normal full load current. After the first half-cycle the motor begins to rotate and the starting current subsides to 4 to 8 times the normal current for several seconds. As a motor reaches running speed, the current subsides to its normal running level. So if the AC draws 10 A, 50-60 amps would be quite normal to see on turn on. Breakers can usually handle this inrush, and breakers can also have different trip curves, allowing more or less inrush than others. This is similar to a time delay fuse. A regular and time delay fuse of the same current allow the same long term current, but the time delay gives more time for motor inrush and similar. I remember as a kid the circuit with my dad's table saw needed a time delay fuse, as a regular fuse would blow the instant you switched the saw on. It's really cool to put a scope on the AC lines and watch the actual inrush current and voltages. I've done that at work for several different devices. It's staggering how high the peak currents can be for the first full half cycle. EDIT: Missed there was a second page of comments before posting, so this was already covered. Oops.
jseyfert3 11/12/19 05:42pm General RVing Issues
RE: Electrical Issue No A/C one circuit dead Fleetwood Terry 26

How exactly did you check for dc voltage at the fuses? My guess is the only fuse that has power is blown due to the negative meter lead being on a positive. Sam Seconded. My first thought when I read that all but one had voltage was that it was a measurement error and the one with voltage was blown. OP: No offense to your skills (which are unknown to me) but you didn't happen to measure voltage from that top red wire to the wires coming off the fuses, did you? EDIT: I re-read, saw that lighting is out (which is on the fuse with voltage). I'll bet a case of beer you measured voltage from the top red wire to the wires coming off the fuses. Doing this will only show BAD circuits, typically blown fuses. A better way of doing this is to measure from negative (no terminals shown in your picture, metal casing may work) to the wires coming out of the fuses. Measuring from the top red wire (12 volts) to the output of the fuse (12 volts) will show 0 volts for a good fuse and 12 volts for a bad fuse. Pull fuse #1 again, measure the resistance across it using your voltmeter. If bad, it will read high resistance or NC (no connection), depending on the model of meter you're using. A good fuse will read almost 0 ohms.
jseyfert3 11/06/19 04:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

Yes, I know that while recharging the voltage doesn't have anything to do with SOC. The nice thing about the hobby charger I'm using right now is that it displays the actual charge current and keeps a running total of mAh delivered. Right now, the current is down to about 6.5 A and the total Ah delivered is approximately 50. At 60% SOC I'd expect around 100 Ah will be needed, plus charging losses, minus the reduced capacity new deep cycle batteries have, but it's still probably a good first past indicator of the battery health. This might be the first time I "roll over" the mAh counter on the hobby charger, since it only has 5 digits. :D Typically, I'm charging 2000-3000 mAh lithium battery packs, not massive lead acid batteries.
jseyfert3 11/03/19 07:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

I thought voltage was pretty close, but ONLY if the battery has sat disconnected for like 24-48 hours and ONLY if you are using the manufacture's datasheet for that battery to determine SOC. By "good" I meant floating glass tube bobber type, not that it was $100. As opposed to the 4 ball model (really, how useful is that) or the plastic floating arrow.
jseyfert3 11/03/19 06:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

Yeah they were both at 6.11 volts, which is just a tad under 60% SOC (6.12 is 60% according to the datasheet). Manufacturing date was January 2019. Got them from a small battery company, clearly they had not been watching/charging them enough. According to Trojan, they should be charged in storage upon dropping to 70% SOC. $300 for the pair before tax, core charge included, so hopefully I didn't get a bad deal. Right now I'm charging them with my RC hobby charger. Like most chargers, it goes to 14.7 volts, and is not adjustable. 10 A max charge current. It ends the charge at 10% of charge current setpoint. So if I charge at 10 A as I am now, it ends absorption at 1 A. If I set it to 5 A, it would end at 0.5 A and so forth. I haven't yet bought a hydrometer or a power supply/charger that can do full charge voltage or equalization, so it's just the hobby charger for now. That should get them fairly close to full. After I let it sit a day or two after charging the voltage should tell me, though it won't tell me if I need an equalization. Full charge is 6.37 volts or 1.277 SG (T-105 datasheet). I will use a hydrometer to check for full charge and the potential need of equalization as soon as I get one. I found one of the good ones today at the local hardware store, the floating tube with a built-in thermometer, but unfortunately the thermometer was clearly broken as it was reading 40 °F in room temp or I'd have bought it. It was the only one with the floating tube scale they had. My guess is battery hydrometers don't exactly fly off the shelves. :D
jseyfert3 11/03/19 05:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

NO Don't remove the batteries at home, they are needed for the trailer brakes! Or as the OP suggested use a temporary battery for transport to storage. That wasn't the OP, since I'm the OP. Someone else suggested removing the batteries, and cautioned to make sure I use a temp battery for transport to storage. I said that if I was going to remove them, I'd do it at the storage lot. Meaning we'd come home from camping, unload, take it to the storage lot, remove the batteries, come home and charge them. So just rearranging the order of things to not need a temp battery. Removing batteries gets old real quick. From the OPs usage I'd suggest a large set of cables from the TV battery to the RV batteries. This will go a long way towards significant battery charge from CG to home to storage. This is a good idea. I bought the batteries yesterday, and yes, it will certainly get old dragging those to and from the camper. They aren't drastically bigger than a group 24 but they are way heavier! Anyway, thanks all for the advice. I think I have a pretty good idea of what I'm going to do.
jseyfert3 11/03/19 03:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Propane winterizing

Propane LIQUIFIES at around -40 I have no idea what the freezing point is but at -40 it will not vaporise any more (Remains a liquid) Google says -306 °F. That's cold!
jseyfert3 11/01/19 08:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Boeing 737 crashes..........why ?

Why were the MCAS controls installed in the first place ? I read 3-4 months ago, somewhere, that Boeing retrofitted the 737 with new engines. Heavier but more fuel efficient. The added weight affected the wings...causing the plane to dip down.... and the MCAS was added to keep the plane level. Did not work apparently. Anyone else have info as to why the MCAS was added ? In short, to compete with Airbus on fuel efficient planes, they updated the 737. This primary involved more efficient engines, which are much bigger. The 737 wasn't designed for engines this large, so they put them in a weird position. Because of this, it no longer handled like the 737s made previously. Pilots are type rated, which means they have to be certified to fly a particular type of airplane. The handling changes caused by the new engines meant that any airline that wanted to buy the new 737 would have to put all the pilots for the new 737 through type training on it, an expensive proposition given that (from what I've read) it takes 1-4 weeks of classroom and simulator training to become type rated. This cost makes airlines less likely to buy a different type of airplane than ones they already have. That's why Boeing has made sure 737's have handled the same since they first came out (if I understand correctly). So the new 737 handling different means it won't sell nearly as well as if it handled the same. So, what is MCAS? It's computer flight assistance, with one purpose. To make these new 737's that handle differently on thier own handle just like any other 737 made to date, so airlines don't have to send all their pilots through type training, so they are more likely to buy it. The crashes happened due to a single point of failure. An instrument MCAS relied on malfunctioned, causing MCAS to push the nose down. The pilots could not override it by pulling up the stick. The only override was to turn MCAS off, but the pilots didn't know that, much less how to disable it. It seems likely they didn't even know MCAS was a thing. My reading gets flakey here but I think MCAS was not even in the manual for the plane. Questions remain about why it had single point failure, why instruments to make it more robust were optional, why it wasn't mentioned in the manual, if the FCC and Boeing got a little too cozy and the FCC signed off on it without robost review or requirements, etc.
jseyfert3 11/01/19 06:35pm Around the Campfire
RE: a paradox

What I want to know is where can you buy bread for $1? (Fresh that is) Aldi. Actually it's $0.85 a loaf here.
jseyfert3 10/31/19 08:52pm General RVing Issues
RE: Xantrex Truecharge2 Reliability?

That's some good points. Maybe taking them off really is the best way to go. I suppose it wouldn't be that bad, could set everything up with heavy duty connectors so I'm not fiddling with nuts and ring terminals all the time. If I went that route I'd probably just take them on and off at the storage lot, so I didn't have to reconnect another battery for the trip to-from the lot. I guess the only easy alternative would be some solar. Get them to 90% SOC with a rapid charge at home, then let the solar do the last 10% over the next few days. Well, the easiest way would be to only ever camp at sites with electricity, but limits the number of available campsites drastically, especially in the busy season. I'll need to think on this some more. Thanks all for the thoughts.
jseyfert3 10/31/19 06:32am Tech Issues
RE: Replace Hot Water Tank Propane Gas Valve

Atwood 93844 is obsolete and is replaced by 92078 for 6 gallon models.
jseyfert3 10/30/19 12:03pm General RVing Issues
RE: Mysteries of RV design

That's a good idea. Our camper has one cigarette ligter outlet and two USB outlets, but they are all tucked behind the TV and not easily reached. I should add more outlets while I'm upgrading our batteries.
jseyfert3 10/30/19 11:10am General RVing Issues
RE: Water Pump loses prime when water tank level is 1/3 full

Have you considered fresh water tank sag? Obviously if the pump's intake hose doesn't draw from the lowest part of the tank the pump it can't pump that water. I had this problem with our Freedom Express and installed braces to support the tank and ensure the bottom was flat. I also moved the draw tube which was connected to a side port on the tank to the tank drain port which was on the bottom of the tank. Solved the problem entirely. :B Wow, that's crazy they put that tank in there with no supports. The tank on ours is supported along both long sides with L-brackets, and has two cross bars between these side brackets to prevent sag. And the water pump draw tube was put on the bottom of the tank. I guess we got lucky. With those two things we can drain our tank dry with the pump, provided we park the camper level.
jseyfert3 10/29/19 04:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

We are having to use our furnace....seems fine...gets going, heats, heat shuts off and blower continues for a bit. It seems that this is happening when our blower shuts down....we lose power. Everything but the coffee pot, microwave and TV has no power. It stays off for a few minutes, then comes back on. When it does come back, some of (or all of) our touch lights come on...waking us in the middle of the night last night....and it's still happening tonight. Any ideas? We are hooked to a 50 amp with surge protector. Addendum: I made that long post, then realized I mis-read the original post. :S That's all normal for a furnace, and doesn't really sound like a converter issue. To clarify, when you say lose all power (assuming DC power) is that all lights, water pump, etc? If so, something is odd and you will likely need a multi-meter to figure it out. If it's just the touch lights it sounds like they are just triggering when relays trigger in the furnace.
jseyfert3 10/29/19 06:59am Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

Okay, so I'm going to try and explain things. Sorry if I over-explain, but judging from your comment of not knowing what the battery disconnect switch does I am assuming you know almost nothing about your RV power system. Most RVs are designed to be able to work with or without shore power. Because of this, in general, the water pump, lights, vent fans, and furnace blower run on 12 VDC (the tongue jack and slides also run on 12 VDC). The fridge, if it's an absorption fridge, can use 12 VDC to light a propane flame which cools the fridge, or it can use 120 VAC if you have shore power to save propane. The water heater is usually similar. Wall outlets, microwave, TV, AC, etc all use 120 VAC. What this boils down to is that by using batteries, run everything in the camper except TV/AC/wall outlets, allowing you to use most electric systems from batteries while camping at sites with no electric. We do this quite often. Now, this means you have two separate electric systems on board. One is 12 VDC, the other is 120 VAC. Your coffee pot, microwave, TV, and fireplace all run off 120 VAC, whereas your lights and furnace run off 12 VDC. So if your furnace is shutting down and lights are going out but NOT the TV, coffee pot, and microwave, then you have a problem with the 12 VDC system, and not your 120 VAC system. Got it? Okay, so the 12 VDC system. This consists of a battery (or batteries), a fused distribution block, a 120 VAC to 12 VDC converter (what I think is bad), a battery disconnect switch and your DC loads, such as your furnace and lights. The battery only powers the furnace and lights IF you don't have shore power. If you have shore power, then the converter steps in, taking the 120 VAC shore power and converting it down to 12 VDC. Think of it like an oversized phone or laptop charger. When the converter is powered, the battery no longer has to power the loads, and in fact the converter will charge a dead battery in addition to running your lights and furnace. Batteries don't like sitting around at much less than a full charge for long periods, they will sulfate and be permanently ruined. Because things in your camper will always use some 12 VDC power even when shut off (shut as your audio system), this means if your camper sits the battery will get drained, eventually (or quickly) ruining it. That's the purpose of the battery disconnect switch. It separates the loads in your camper from the battery, keeping it from discharging when your not using your camper. In normal operation, you should turn off the battery disconnect when you park your camper for storage if you don't leave it plugged in, and turn on the battery disconnect when you hook up to tow your camper. So, long explanations done, let's dig in and give you a few things to test. I believe your converter is either not powered on or not working. Hopefully these tests figure that out and get you on your way, or let you know what you'll need to have fixed. Battery Disconnect: If this is on (battery indicators show "full"), does the furnace and lights still cycle? Sounds like it does, but I just want to check. This should be on when camping, off when not camping if the camper isn't plugged in. Power: Does the converter have power? Check your circuit breaker panel. Usually the converter is on its own breaker and labeled as such. Be sure the breaker is on and not off or tripped. Try flipping the breaker off and then on again. Output: If you have a multi-meter (sounds like you're camping so you probably don't), you'll want to measure the converter output. There's usually large metal blocks near the automotive fuses in the DC side of your distribution panel. One will have a really thick red wire, the other a really thick white wire. Measure the DC voltage between these blocks. It should be 13.6 volts or so (up to 14.4) if your converter is running. Anything 12 or below and the converter is bad. Fuses: The converter can't power any loads or charge the battery if the output fuses are blown. These are often multiple fuses parallel, right next to each other. They are the biggest fuses in there. I have two 40 A fuses. Pull these fuses and make sure they are not blown.
jseyfert3 10/29/19 06:47am Tech Issues
RE: Loss of Power when Furnace Blower Shuts Down??? Help!!!

We just cut power to the whole camper and checked batteries and they showed 1/3 and that quickly went away, too. So...changing those today. Hold up, don't buy batteries yet. Sounds like your converter is bad, not your batteries. I just got up and I'm on my phone. Let me make some coffee and go to my desktop computer and I'll explain why I think this. In the meantime if you have a multi-meter that can measure DC go dig that up.
jseyfert3 10/29/19 05:49am Tech Issues
RE: Doom for the RV industry???

Look at what has happened to the auto industry in the US since the Seventies. how many choices do you now have? How many did we have in 1970? Not sure what you're getting at here. You seem to be implying the natural course of things is towards fewer choices and monopolies. Being a young guy (born in '91) I certainly wasn't around in the 70's, but from what I read there is way more choice now that in the 70's, and all of it much higher quality than the 70's. Which seems opposite your point, unless I misunderstand you?
jseyfert3 10/28/19 08:47pm General RVing Issues
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