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RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Just as a final reply for those interested, the AC is up and running. As noted above, I ordered and entire new ceiling piece that has the selector dial and T-Stat dial in it and plan to return the one I had. Ironically, a tech support person finally called me back 2 days after I left a message and email to be called back and after I had bypassed the T-stat. I discussed what I did and he said it still could be either the selector or t-stat, so rather than only replacing the t-stat I pulled down the entire ceiling assembly and replaced with the new. All is running well now and we are good to go with 1 day to spare for our trip. Thanks again everyone. I will drive myself to exhaustion before I give up trying to fix things, but the replies here were a big help and saved me a lot of extra time.
kfp673 07/15/21 07:00am Tech Issues
RE: Should I Throw In the Towel?

There are so many issues with the construction of RVs from design, to workmanship, to materials. Also the fact the we consumers want it as cheap as possible, and as light as possible so we can tow a 30ft house with a minivan does not help us. I've got a 5 year old Heritage Glenn Hyper-Lite, and these are some of the things that drive me nuts. The construction is so sloppy, screws that are in crooked drives me nuts, shower head holder that is not in a stud is crappy, and the list goes on. The wood in the seat in the dinnette looked like balsawood from a toy airplane. On our second trip out my daughter went crawl to the back of the U-shape, and her knee went through the wood. The "wood" was less than a 1/4" thick, with few cross supports. Now the floor has soft spots, not from water, but from usage. Apparently they think that the same balsa wood with foam between it, is ok for a floor. From feeling the soft spots, in front of my sink (high usage area) it is 24" between the floor joists. I will never buy another camper marketed as light, as I feel that means flimsy. I know we bought low/middle of the line, but I really was hoping for more quality. We love to camp, and are thinking of going to a couples 5er since the kids will both be in college in a month. But honestly I'm not sure how far up in price do we have to go to decent quality, or do you ever get there? It seems like Grand Design, and Jaycos(nicer lines) may be somewhat better, but you still see many of the same issues. In basically the same floor plan we like I can get a $50k Jayco Eagle, or a Grand Design Solitude for $70k, or a Mobile Suites for $150k. I like the price on the Eagle, I could swing the Grand Design, but is there $20k of better quality? The Mobile is Nice, but not in my budget. When we bought my wife her Honda CRV, we looked and came to the conclusion it was worth it to spend the money on the Honda over a Kia, for the quality and reliability of a Honda. We looked at Lexus, and felt it was probably not anymore reliable than the Honda, but did have some nice features and was pretty, but not worth the extra money to us. All great points, and I think we are agreeing with each other just from a different perspective. You are pointing out the lack of quality, workmanship, and QC and saying that because it is standard buyers must learn what to look for and what to maintain. 100% agree. My stance is simply questioning why it is that way, and I am not willing to accept the idea that it must be that way or prices must drastically increase. I guarantee the executives in each of these massive RV companies are doing just fine financially. My comparison to the Trucks is just to think about materials. Other than the shell itself (fiberglass, wood, whatever) the rest of the trailer, including the frame, are relatively inexpensive. Think about the quality, fit & finish, technology, QC, and warranty you get with a $50k truck vs a $50k trailer. In in your example, I would argue that you will find that Grand Design you pointed out is probably not built all that much better than yours. I'm sure to some degree it is but I think we would all be shocked if we could strip it down. That extra cost is going into nicer leather seats, nicer lighting, etc. And the crazy thing is, what is considered "Nicer" is total junk compared to what you would buy for your home or put in a car until you get well into the 6 figures for a Class A. Anyway, certainly not giving you a hard time as your points are spot on. It's just disappointing every time I have to fix something in my trailer (pretty much every trip) that comes back to pure workmanship and QC.
kfp673 07/14/21 06:17am Travel Trailers
RE: Should I Throw In the Towel?

"three trailers, three units were major problems. This latest trailer just purchased late last summer is the latest to push me over the edge." Your doing something wrong! Either your doing very poor PDI when you first get your trailers. Your not keeping up with regular maintenance. You are not being obesrvant enough to catch/discover small issues before they become major problems. Your latest issue is an example. It is common for skylights to leak in all models however the leak does not have to lead to a totally soaked ceiling! RV's are in constant flux. You must be observant and aware at all times as you use your RV. Pay attention to all the liitle squeaks and noises. If it seams weird investigate further. Notice a wet spot, find out why? Hear an odd sound,find out why? It is an on going battle, but you can win. You just need to be diligant aware and observant. As to your current problem unless you have the skills to DIY you are at the mercy of your dealer and manufacturer. Executing the warranty is full of pitfalls I think your statement that it is common for skylights to leak proves his point. Since they have been putting the same crappy leaking skylights in for what 15-20 years, you’d thing they could fix it by now. 100% agree. We buy trucks and other vehicles that depending on their use can take equal or in some cases far more of a beating, spend about the same $ on them, come with far more up to date technology and complication / engineering, and yet they ship with at least a 3 yr 36k mile bumper to bumper warranty (sometimes longer). I think it's really sad that the RV industry is so filled with junk that it is a common answer to hear "that's just normal you have to watch out for it". Imagine if your truck windshield leaked and caused mold at 15 months old with 18k miles on it and the dealer said "did you have it professional checked and resealed???" if not no warranty. I love camping / RV'ing as much as anyone but as consumers we tend to give them far too much leeway and even make excuses to support them using junk materials and rushing their build.
kfp673 07/13/21 12:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Good news for sure. Is it too late to consider taking the thermostat to a local ac shop and buy a thermostat that will work with your unit? Much easier than the disconect and reinstall the complete unit. It is just a small t-stat rotary dial so I'm not sure anywhere would have it in stock that would fit this small housing. The new unit is scheduled to arrive Wednesday so I should be fine. Actually don't have to remove the entire thing. The piece that holds the flexible plenum and the electric, on/off switch, and t-stat can all stay. Simple 2 screws and you can remove the t-stat. I'll just replace the parts that I need and return the rest in the other package. If it does not show up there are plenty of ways to rig it now that I know what to do. Thanks!
kfp673 07/12/21 02:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Well... I am 99% sure I have this figured out. Thanks everyone for the links and suggestions. I have multi meter tested everything I could think of and all of the suggestions on this forum but the one thing I did not do was mentioned above and that was bypass the T-Stat. I removed the yellow and white wires from the T-stat this morning and jumped them and BINGO!! we have cold air! Ironically I had left a message for the place I bought it to setup an exchange of the AC itself, but super happy it's the T-Stat. Of course the T-stat itself is not in stock anywhere including the factory. Since we are leaving for a trip Thursday I decided to just repurchase the entire ceiling assembly and have it shipped to arrive Wednesday and then I am setting up the return of the one I have. Figured this way even if the refund and return take a long time, I am temp out $200 ish. I will post 1 final time once it's replaced. Thank you all very much for your replies and help. Hopefully some day this thread will help someone else!
kfp673 07/12/21 10:27am Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

I still need the MODEL of the roof top unit. Doug 48204-669 Coleman Mach15 Indoor unit 9430D7153
kfp673 07/11/21 08:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Purple wire comes off the back of the selector knob. At the back of the selector knob it has 120v, it then runs via the harness up to the housing where the capacitors live where it is spliced to a back cable. 120V show there as well. Black cable then runs to the compressor which has 120v (actually they all ready about 117 + or -. Both sides of the capacitor also reads the same 117 ish. T-stat has different colored wires including white. Anyone know how to properly test a rotary t-stat with a meter? The ceiling unit is model 9430D7153. I find it strange that I hear and feel no "click" when I rotate the t-stat knob. I would think I would feel that if it were working and sending a signal to the compressor to engage.
kfp673 07/11/21 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Yes we have ceiling mounted controls. I accessed every panel that I could find including everything on the roof to make sure all wires were secured. I’m not sure specifically where the thermostat wire connects but I will continue to look. What I can say is there is a harness that plugs into the ceiling assembly directly. That harness runs up to the top unit. I disassembled the entire top unit to trace those wires and they all run either through the capacitors or to the fan motors etc. Is there a place on the indoor unit other than that harness connection I should check? It concerns me that you stated you did NOT see the tstat wires. Those are on back of the rotary tstat and access is just removing 1 screw to expose the inside of the Galvanized tstat housing. The ON/Off Fan speed switch on the other side has the same cover that will expose those wires and spade terminals. Now, you state (hopefully you were frustrated), POS. Well, you do NOT know what you are doing and your posts support that. So, until you verify it is NOT your install problem don't blame RVP. That multiwire quick connect is standard going from your interior control assbly to the roof top unit. Really need to know the MODEL AND the Lower control package number. The standard RVP the PURPLE wire in that quick connecter should have 120 VOLTS when you select Cool. If you do NOT have 120 volts on that purple wire, then you have a Selector switch or tstat wire problem. TEST THE PURPLE WIRE FOR 120 AND GET BACK TO US. Doug Thanks. I appreciate the scolding and will be sure to keep this in mind next time I need to spend 10 hours trouble shooting something with a single wire harness. Yes, since that post I have removed the T-stat and checked all wires plus the system selector knob. Also pulled apart every panel on the roof side and checked every connector. I am 100% positive there are not lose wires at this point. This direct vent AC is very simple and really should just work. Connecting the harness from inside to out and AC power is literally all that should be required other than the obvious physical mounting. Anything else and yes, its a POS with very poor QC as are almost all parts made for RV's. I will test purple wire in the harness for 120V as you have suggested.
kfp673 07/11/21 12:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

One last request for help. I'm questioning myself and my multi-meter skills. Super rusty. I have a digital multi-meter but one with the dial for settings. It does not have a picofarad setting as far as I can tell. I read that I can use the highest Ohm setting as noted above for testing the start capacitor but would like someone to confirm. I removed all leads, shorted the leads to avoid shock, set better to 20k ohms and held it on the leads of the Cap. It slowly climbed. Does this mean the cap is fine? Also, I am questioning myself on testing if proper voltage is at the compressor. What would be the appropriate setting on the meter, and which leads would I be touching of the 3? I noticed it reads collage when only the red multi meter lead is used. Anyone good with meters have a simple step by step for these 2 tests? Thanks again all! I know I'm pulling at straws here but I'm hopeful it is something like a capacitor and maybe I'm testing it wrong. Final thing... Per an earlier post, I decided to run the camper on my generators with 50amp connection to confirm it was not a house power issue. When I do so and get to the cool setting it makes no generator change at all. Typically the Gen's would idle up fast and run at full RPM. This does not even make them jump for a second, so there is no increase in power draw at all. If it were a cap wouldn't it at least try?
kfp673 07/11/21 07:58am Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Is there any voltage to the compressor? Meter shows roughly 12v on each of the 3 wires at the compressor while running. If money was no object I’d love to rip this POS off the roof and smash it. So frustrating. Guess I should have paid the dealer to install it so if they hit these issues they can deal with them and replace it I’m a little confused here…Did you mean 120v at the compressor?? 3 tons Yes sorry. Your doing well at diagnostics!….In that case it very well could be something as simple as a bad start capacitor (the larger of the caps)… 3 tons Thanks 3 tons! Earlier today I researched how to check the capacitor. Thought it would be strange since this is a brand new unit. but I know caps can be bad. I removed all leads, shorted the cap and used the highest ohm setting on my meter to test. The website I read said if the resistance reading continues to climb it is likely ok. It did indeed climb starting from zero and climbed for a while until I stopped testing. I had my wife cycle the unit on and off while I was on the roof and I hear no signs of the compressor even trying to start. Would be awesome if it were a capacitor but at least with my basic knowledge and testing it does not seem to be.
kfp673 07/10/21 07:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Is there any voltage to the compressor? Meter shows roughly 12v on each of the 3 wires at the compressor while running. If money was no object I’d love to rip this POS off the roof and smash it. So frustrating. Guess I should have paid the dealer to install it so if they hit these issues they can deal with them and replace it I’m a little confused here…Did you mean 120v at the compressor?? 3 tons Yes sorry.
kfp673 07/10/21 06:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

I’m not too familiar with the inner-workings, but the t-stat (when in cool mode) should be in communication with a motor start relay, so if possible (I donno…) I’d look for voltage on either side of this relay…JMO 3 tons This may be true but I can't find a relay other than on the top of the compressor, and continuity tests fine on that. The harness runs from the T-state box straight up to the start and fan capacitors. Possible there is a relay buried somewhere I am missing but I can't find it. Thanks!
kfp673 07/10/21 06:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Is the original ac working properly> Yes, it works fine. After running into cooling issues with this new one I shut that down and ran the original unit and it had no problem. Unless I am missing something, I have it narrowed down to bad T-stat or bad compressor or some sort of electronics that I can't see. Unlike wall mount T-stat units I don't see a "brain" or anything like it. Guess I need to wait to speak with Airxel Monday to see if they have any magic tricks. Really hope it's the T-stat as that is easy to replace.
kfp673 07/10/21 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Is there any voltage to the compressor? Meter shows roughly 12v on each of the 3 wires at the compressor while running. If money was no object I’d love to rip this POS off the roof and smash it. So frustrating. Guess I should have paid the dealer to install it so if they hit these issues they can deal with them and replace it
kfp673 07/10/21 04:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Just pull down the thermostat knob and the selector switch completely exposed and all wires look good. Still absolutely no sound coming from the compressor. I disconnected and reconnected the wires and wiggled them around just to make sure there was nothing non-visible. Super frustrating really hoping it’s not a bad unit as it was a nightmare getting this one installed
kfp673 07/10/21 03:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Super frustrating AC issue

Yes we have ceiling mounted controls. I accessed every panel that I could find including everything on the roof to make sure all wires were secured. I’m not sure specifically where the thermostat wire connects but I will continue to look. What I can say is there is a harness that plugs into the ceiling assembly directly. That harness runs up to the top unit. I disassembled the entire top unit to trace those wires and they all run either through the capacitors or to the fan motors etc. Is there a place on the indoor unit other than that harness connection I should check?
kfp673 07/10/21 02:53pm Tech Issues
Super frustrating AC issue

Hello All, Please help if you can because I am about to light my camper on fire and push it off a cliff I'm so frustrated! My camper came pre-wired for a second AC (direct vent). First AC is a Coleman Mach 15K so I purchased another Mach15 for the master bedroom. After 5 hours of install for me and a little help from my wife I got the job done. Toughest part was getting it up there but we got it. Installed everything exactly as directed. Moment of truth.... fan but no compressor. No matter what setting I chose I cannot get cold air. Fan turns on every time and even the heat strip I bought with it had no problem heating but no cold air. Checked the harness that plugs into the controls and even pulled apart the entire upper unit to look or a lose wire or something obvious. Nothing. Last ditch effort was to try my generators for power since my shore power at home is a standard 20A 110 outlet (though that has no problem running the other AC by itself). Tried the generators (which also run the other no problem) and same result. If this thing is dead and I have to replace the unit I think I'm going to lose my mind. Wasted all day today for nothing!! If you have any suggestions please help. We leave next Friday for a week in SC which pushed me to do this install this week. Thanks in advance!
kfp673 07/10/21 01:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Axle upgrade questions

Well... $2500 later and I am all set. Ouch!! As noted earlier, I took it to a frame, trailer, axle alignment shop. Turned out the axles were quite a bit out of alignment and required bending. Springs were shot because of the original bushings and that also means the copper bushings I installed 3 months ago were already damaged. So all new springs and bushings. I then chose to force balance the tires. Lot's of labor time involved and it got expensive. Was a tough call as I could have just kept dragging it around and replacing tires every 2-3 years but I decided to get it done right. Tracks and tows perfectly now so hopefully all of this is worth it. Shop said most trailers are out of alignment. They said you can put on brand new axles and they are likely our of alignment. Anyway, expensive but now I'm ready for our next 1000 mile trip
kfp673 07/08/21 05:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: 4 Bikes on luggage rack

Since you have a TT, why don't you get a bar for the bed and fork mounts for the bikes? That or a tail gate protector bike hauler. I have the Yakima Gate keeper and it's super easy to use, but because I have FW I can't use it while towing, but I bet you could with a TT. Gate Keeper Fork mount bar Between my 3 kids and all of my "toys" the bed of the truck is packed! And we have a fiberglass cap! Ha! Definitely no room for bikes other than the 14" bike for my 4 yr boy. But my twin teen girls are riding bikes now similar in size to my wife and I. Also, thanks to everyone for sharing bike racks. My issue is the storage rack that is on there is from factory and is welded to the frame. It is not a hitch insert, it actually attaches to each side of the frame so that is not going anywhere. Really prefer to use that with some sort of chock or mount of some sort if possible. Thanks again all!
kfp673 06/28/21 04:31pm General RVing Issues
RE: 4 Bikes on luggage rack

Yes, the pic above is exactly what we have. There is a vertical bar that gets installed allowing things to be secured, but as mentioned, it is still a bunch of bikes and now a bunch of bikes with a bunch of damage. I still have the bolt on receiver hitch piece from my old trailer the I could mount to the bumper but that would then make it so I can't use the rack. I already own the Thule version of what you show above that we use on our other car, but will have to figure out how it could be used along with the rack.
kfp673 06/28/21 02:53pm General RVing Issues
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