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RE: Fridge Defend ARP Device

I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists. The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install?
kmb1966 01/17/20 06:40am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

Replace the Rear Control board. Remember the Thermister reading in diag mode is the FIN temp. The actual refer temp will be 10 degrees warmer. Also, a Defective Thermister will test(Ohm) out correctly. But, since you have replaced it, go with the control board. Are you positive the 4 wire quick connect by the interior light has good solid pin connections for the 2 wires to the Thermister? Doug Hi Doug, Thanks for you input. I think that the connectors by the interior light are OK, (at least they look OK). But it is worth mentioning to you that the internal fans(2) from the ARP Device also connect to the black wire on this interior light. Perhaps that could be the cause of the problem? Possibly. In 25 years of working on hundreds of 1200's I have never heard or seen this type problem. I thought you stated you disconnected the ARP device and it still malfunctioned? There are 4 wires Positive/Ground(2) for the light. The other 2 go to the Thermister and should not be affected since they are separate. I thought maybe the pins at the connector may have corrosion and causing lack of OHM signal. Doug I have not disconnected the ARP unit, but I did simply turn it off and test with the same results. I think I should unwire the ARP unit and re-test, or at least unwire the 2 internal fans and re-test. What seems ODD is that I cannot get it to malfunction in the LP-GAS mode.
kmb1966 01/13/20 08:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

Replace the Rear Control board. Remember the Thermister reading in diag mode is the FIN temp. The actual refer temp will be 10 degrees warmer. Also, a Defective Thermister will test(Ohm) out correctly. But, since you have replaced it, go with the control board. Are you positive the 4 wire quick connect by the interior light has good solid pin connections for the 2 wires to the Thermister? Doug Hi Doug, Thanks for you input. I think that the connectors by the interior light are OK, (at least they look OK). But it is worth mentioning to you that the internal fans(2) from the ARP Device also connect to the black wire on this interior light. Perhaps that could be the cause of the problem?
kmb1966 01/13/20 01:22pm Tech Issues
Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

I am troubleshooting an ongoing problem with my Norcold 1200. It cools fine for a few days and then suddenly will stop cooling. Putting the Norcold in diagnostic mode, the thermistor reading will show very low temperature readings. For example the thermistor temperature will show 11 degrees even though it is 58 degrees in the refrigerator and 45 in the freezer. - If I turn the refrigerator OFF and then back ON using the control panel, it has no effect, thermistor temp is still wrong. - If I disconnect the thermistor and re-connect it, the thermistor will read the correct temperature and the cooling unit will come on and cool fine for a few days and then suddenly start reading incorrectly again (very low) and therefore cooling unit won't come on. - I've replaced the thermistor with a new one, and the new one does the same thing. Reads correctly for a few days and then starts reading very low and therefore cooling unit won't come on. - I don't think the problem exists if the refrigerator is in LP-GAS mode. Seems to work fine all the time in gas mode. - I do have an ARP (frig defend) device on the frig. Turning it off and back on also causes the thermistor to read correctly. I don't think the ARP has anything to do with this though because if I turn the ARP OFF altogether, the problem still happens. Still testing.....
kmb1966 01/13/20 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: Dash AC blows out of the defrost vents

Doug, Have you experimented with a vacuum reservoir along with check valve to maintain adequate vacuum to the HVAC system under high throttle/low vacuum situations? Yes. I have experimented with dozens of attempted fixes over the years, including dealing with the OEM motorhome makers and Evans/tempcon. NOTHING works. The only thing that works and is consistent is adding a 12 volt electric vacuum pump. My statement about inherent vacuum leaks came from the makers of the Dash AC evap systems. I have replaced various vacuum motors and dash switches per the OEM's instructions and none fixed the vacuum leak problem. When the engine goes to zero vacuum, it does NOT pull Vacuum from the reservoir ball. The system just uses up what little vacuum it has. Doug I took Doug's advice on this and this worked perfectly. Was fairly easy to do, wasn't expensive and worked perfect. I put a switch on my dashboard to manually turn the pump on/off. Tried everything else and nothing else worked. Mine was doing exactly what you describe.
kmb1966 09/30/19 05:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dometic Penguin 2 - compressor on, fan on, not cooling

Just because the compressor is hot doesn't mean it's running. Can you hear it running? From what you've said, I don't think it's running. The small tube coming out of it going to the condenser should be too hot to touch if it is running. If it isn't running, take a look at the capacitors. If the one in a metal can shows ANY sign of bulging, replace it. If there's one in a black plastic container, examine it for signs of damage - they can overheat very quickly and spew wax around before busting the plastic case open. If there's something that says "easy start" on it, it may have failed. The easy start and start capacitor get the compressor turning, the run capacitor keeps it running and reduces the amps drawn by the compressor. I do think the compressor is running. I can hear it kick on a few seconds after the fan starts running. Yes the small tube is very hot (laser thermometer read 170). Bringing it in today to have it looked at.
kmb1966 09/11/19 04:35am Tech Issues
RE: 2 zones 1 thermostat or 2 thermostats?

IF the CCC wall tstat is NOT in an overhead cabinet the CCC wall tstat is Zone 1 temp sensor. You have all the wiring to do a new change out. I will bet the original replacement, the Penguin was a 10 button control board and will not work with the 5 button and that is why they installed a new tstat in the bedroom. Anybody that did this should NOT be working on RV's. If you buy 2 new Penguins, they will have the onboard control boards already and you just purchase a 10 button wall CCC tstat. ALL the wiring to connect is already there. Doug great news. Thanks. And you are right, the people that did this install are in fact NO LONGER in the RV business. That's a good thing!
kmb1966 09/10/19 06:32pm Tech Issues
Dometic Penguin 2 - compressor on, fan on, not cooling

About a 4 year old Dometic Penguin II. Fan comes on, I hear the compressor kick on, but air is warm. Removed the cover, and the compressor is too hot to touch, cold copper lines are not cold at all.
kmb1966 09/10/19 01:18pm Tech Issues
RE: 2 zones 1 thermostat or 2 thermostats?

Are you the original owner? I ask Because we sold Newmar from 1994 til 2008, and hundreds of DSDP's. NONE--NONE came from the factory with 2 wall tstats. They came with the standard(your year) 5 button Dometic wall CCC Tstat. You then had the rear Zone 2 with the remote bedroom temp Thermister. Now, believe it or not, over those early years I saw a few Newmar's with just 1 Roof AC (DSDP Diesel and Gas model). Usually sold to dealers in the NE and NW. So, is it possible your model came with 1 AC and somebody added an extra and used a wall tstat? OR, there was a problem with the original set up and the Tech that was trying to fix installed that 2nd Bedroom wall tstat? My point being, you should have the communication wiring in place for easy change out to new Penguins and new 10 button CCC wall tstat. I will bet you also have the Bedroom Rear remote Thermister someplace in the Bedroom on the wall. Doug 100% accurate. I am not the original owner, but he is a good friend of mine. YES, it originally had 2 a/c units, but only 1 thermostat. Apparently when the rear a/c had to be replaced, the installer could not figure out how to hook up the system, so they installed a 2nd thermostat for the rear a/c, leaving the front thermostat to operate the furnace and the front a/c. But I am not having problems with the rear a/c. First it seems to have a cycling problem of some sort. The compressor and fan come on and blow cold air, but before it reaches the set-point, the compressor will cut off and fan will stay on (if in the Fan-ON position). The temps will not be at the set-point, and after 20 minutes or so, the compressor will come back on for approx 10 minutes, then the compressor will cut back off, fan remaining on. This continues to repeat. Sometimes it reaches the set-point (at night I have it set to 70) and sometimes it does not. The rear a/c also has a squeaky blower at times waking everyone up in the middle of the night. uggg. I am trying to solve all this, and will consider replacing both units, but trying to make sure the installer truly knows what he is doing. unfortunately many don't. Yes, also I see a rear bedroom temperature thermistor. I don't know where the others are located. looking for them. thank you for your help in advance.
kmb1966 09/10/19 07:41am Tech Issues
2 zones 1 thermostat or 2 thermostats?

I am considering making some changes to my current a/c setup. I currently have (2) 13.5k Dometic Penguin 2 units ducted system. The front a/c has a thermostat that operates the front unit and the gas furnace. The rear has its own thermostat and operates only that 1 rear unit. I am considering changing to 2 Penguin II 15k btu units each with a heat pump. Newmar support says ideally it should be 1 thermostat with 2 zones, but if that is so, then why did they put 2 thermostats in when it was built? I assume the idea behind 2 zones is so that the 2 units do not battle one another. I have seen some motorhomes with 3 a/c and 3 thermostats. So what is the best way to go with this? 2 thermostats or 1 with 2 zones? How does all this work? :h
kmb1966 09/09/19 02:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE

Dirty orifice' Dirty burner Dirty flue/flue baffle Flue cap not in place Low LP System Pressure Thank you for these suggestions. Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit). I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure You are qualified to work at Camping World:B Your problem is LP PRESSURE! Replacing parts is NOT the fix. It is at CW. Doug Update.... Doug is going to be right (again) on this. I changed the orifice and burner. Flame looks textbook correct. But still does not cool as well in propane mode as it does electric. 35 in electric, 42 in propane. (7 degree difference) Having the LP pressure tested next.
kmb1966 09/08/19 06:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Refill fresh water from when no gravity fill exists

I always get a chuckle when I see these posts; and the extents that some will go to to put water into their tank. If your RV has a winterizing valve, then you already have everything you need. Simply turn your City/Fill valve to "Fill", and turn your winterizing valve to "winterize". Drop the winterizing line into a bucket of water and turn on your water pump. Your onboard pump will draw the water into the lines and then push into the freshwater tank. Refill bucket as needed. BINGO! THANK YOU! :)
kmb1966 09/03/19 07:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refill fresh water from when no gravity fill exists

assuming you mean you cannot connect the hose for whatever reason.... but just buy a 12v or 110v water pump on Amazon. Setup as external pump, attach hoses to feed through normal fill, put other end if hose in external container filled with water. Depending on size if your external container it might take quite a few trip to fill it then pump it into your internal tank. Sounds like you want some other idea but i don't see a simplier solution. Gravity fill has drawbacks including the installation itself which i didn't find appealing. i opted for a 12v pump gicen new battery capacity and solar power over a 110v pump though might be handy to have both. There are even a couple ready to use external pump setups on Amazon. they run about $75-$100. I actually wondered why gravity fill and such an external pump option isn't standard equipment anyway. have heard there is some problem with the check-valve? what size pump to work with the check valve?
kmb1966 09/02/19 06:46pm Class A Motorhomes
Refill fresh water from when no gravity fill exists

Does anyone have a really good setup to fill fresh water in the tank when you don't have a gravity fill ability, and only a water hose method? I'd like to purchase something fairly ready-to-work so that I can re-fill fresh water when needed with some fresh water containers. I have several 6 gallon fresh water containers, but I am searching for options to do this. I need more information than just "find a pump" please.
kmb1966 09/02/19 05:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE

Dirty orifice' Dirty burner Dirty flue/flue baffle Flue cap not in place Low LP System Pressure Thank you for these suggestions. Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit). I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure You are qualified to work at Camping World:B Your problem is LP PRESSURE! Replacing parts is NOT the fix. It is at CW. Doug How do I test LP Gas pressure? Since my burner is 16 years old, maybe it wasn't a total waste of $ to buy another burner. :)
kmb1966 08/31/19 01:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE

Dirty orifice' Dirty burner Dirty flue/flue baffle Flue cap not in place Low LP System Pressure Thank you for these suggestions. Since it is a new cooling unit, I am assuming that the flue/baffle and flue cap are all good. I know the flu cap is there (appears to be welded on the Amish unit). I ordered a new burner and will install. I am not sure how to test the LP pressure
kmb1966 08/31/19 05:49am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE

How old is it? Try blowing out the burner with compressed air. What color is the flame? The cooling unit is new (Amish cooling unit) But the burner age is unknown to me. Might be the original burner. I can see a blue flame.
kmb1966 08/31/19 05:48am Tech Issues
Norcold 1200 colder on electric than propane UPDATE

Been testing the Norcold 1200 for several weeks. Several thermometers all reading the same. Set on 7, Electric mode each morning 35/36 degrees. switch to propane Set on 7, propane mode each morning 43/44 degrees. Moving to 8,9 makes no improvement. Switch back to electric, on 7, consistently on 35/36 degrees. obviously something wrong with propane mode. Replace burner?
kmb1966 08/30/19 09:09pm Tech Issues
RE: RV inside Temperature and Refrigerator temperature

After several weeks of testing my Norcold 1200, I have determined that the unit is performing much better in electric mode, than propane. The propane is lit and I can see a blue flame, but it is not cooling near as well as it does on electric mode. In electric mode, it can reach 35 degrees overnight but in propane mode, only 40
kmb1966 08/28/19 08:05am Tech Issues
RE: RV inside Temperature and Refrigerator temperature

Absolutely. You didn't say what your year/make/model was of the RV or Norcold (or I didn't go digging for it?), but my DC0061 definitely works harder when the coach's interior ambient temp is higher. I see it's a DSDP. Assume it's not a 7 cuft Norcold? :B I should have put that info on my post. I will edit the post and update that info. It's a Norcold 1200 in a 2003 Newmar Dutch Star No worries. I just got off my lazy butt and did a little profile digging. :W My "absolutely" still stands. Hot inside coach, fridge works harder to maintain temps. In propane mode I can only reach about 39 degrees with approx 80 degrees inside the coach (testing cooling unit) In electric mode I can only reach about 38 degrees, but if the inside temp is around 90 degrees, can only get to approx 40 degrees in electric 42 in propane. It's in storage doing this test and I can't run the generator or have a hookup so it's really warm inside the unit, but trying to determine if the frig is working right. I probably need to get it out and plug it in a 50 amp where I can test with normal inside livable temps. Interesting, should be the other way around with propane being the colder of the 2 because the propane flame is emitting more BTU's in heat than the Cal Rod is. I agree. most of the time propane mode cools slightly better, not slightly worse, but in this case it is just opposite.
kmb1966 08/27/19 08:57pm Tech Issues
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