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 > Your search for posts made by 'kmb1966' found 70 matches.

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RE: Norcold 1200 Thermistor reads wrong until door opened/closed

1. Remove the Bulb from the light and see if the problem goes away 2. If not, then the odds are the rear Main board is bad 3. Long shot, would be corroded wire harness from the evap area thru the insulation of the box to the board. THIS is not a serviceable part. 4. How old is the refer? 5. Is the control board original? It is a Norcold board? Doug Thank you for the advice. Will try removing the bulb and re-test. The Norcold is a 2003, so it is old. On it's 3rd cooling unit (Amish) Yes the board is a Norcold board.
kmb1966 03/07/20 06:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 Thermistor reads wrong until door opened/closed

I don't know if this is plausible, but---Is the thermistor losing its ground over that week where the light bulb snaps in? The light has the same ground at the other end of the light bulb holder. Maybe the light comes on and kickstarts that ground. It appears to be something very close to what you are describing, but I cannot figure out what to do about it. There are 4 wires. 2 for the Light assbly. 2 just for the Thermister. Both are separate from each other. Are you positive the Thermister is installed correctly on the Fin? Are your cooling fans operating? The White and Black wire bundle for the light and rear fans can be swapped by mistake on the rear control board. This will cause no obvious problems except the rear fans will not come on. Maybe it also causes your Thermister problem? The large white/small white goes on the LEFT terminal facing the control board. Doug Both fans in the rear are coming on. Thermistor is on the correct fin, and in the correct position. Thermistor was the first thing I replaced when this odd situation starting happening. Watching the thermistor temperature (in diagnostic mode (3)) the temperature will show oddly low readings (00, 11, 15) and upon opening the door(light comes on) thermistor will read 15, 18, and then if I push the door switch(plastic white door switch) causing the light to go off (no change), but then release the door switch(causing light to come ON) the thermistor will jump to the correct reading (usually in the 40's) and the cooling unit will come on. All is well for a few days, and then it happens all over again.
kmb1966 03/06/20 03:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Defend

The fridge defend is a safety device that turns the cooling unit OFF when the boiler reaches an unsafe operating temperature due to a variety of reasons that are not necessarily related to improper installation. For example, operating the fridge off level causes the boiler temperature to skyrocket and weakens the boiler tubes. Norcold and Dometic have safety temp switches but they are set to trigger at very very high temperatures and the ARP turns it OFF before damage occurs. It does a variety of other things as well. Personally I would not have an absorption refrigerator without the ARP device.
kmb1966 03/06/20 08:31am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 Thermistor reads wrong until door opened/closed

I don't know if this is plausible, but---Is the thermistor losing its ground over that week where the light bulb snaps in? The light has the same ground at the other end of the light bulb holder. Maybe the light comes on and kickstarts that ground. It appears to be something very close to what you are describing, but I cannot figure out what to do about it.
kmb1966 03/06/20 08:26am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 Thermistor reads wrong until door opened/closed

They go through auto-defrost modes at times although that wouldn't explain what the thermistor is doing. Still, maybe that's what you're seeing? no because once it starts doing this, the temperature continues to climb. I am familiar with the defrost cycle, but that is not what this is. During the auto defrost, it will get around 42, but not 55 and thermistor read 15. And as soon as I turn off and on the light (pushing the door button in and out), the thermistor immdiately displays correct temp and cooling unit comes on immediately.
kmb1966 03/05/20 08:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Glacier National Park Info

Glacier is wonderful and we have never found it to be very crowded in late June. But bring BEAR SPRAY and be aware of the precautions regarding bear safety. On the hiking trails, we saw so many bears and had so many close encounters. No attacks, but can be scary at times. Many grizzlies in GNP.
kmb1966 03/05/20 05:36pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
Norcold 1200 Thermistor reads wrong until door opened/closed

I have a Norcold 1200 with a strange problem. The cooling unit will operate and cool down to around 35 degrees (or slightly lower) and work fine for about a week. Then suddenly the temperature inside will start climbing and get into the mid 50's and the cooling unit will not engage because the thermistor temperature reads 15 degrees (using the diagnostic mode). Upon opening the door (light comes on) the thermistor temperature will jump to 10 degrees. If I toggle the door switch (causing the light to go off and back on) (either door), the thermistor will suddenly switch to reading 45 degrees and the cooling unit will come on. I've changed the thermistor, I've checked the connector plug (playing with the connector plug has no effect when the thermistor is reading incorrectly). Problem persists. Only opening and closing either door will cause the thermistor to snap out of it's problem and read correctly, and therefore cause the cooling unit to operate correctly. :h
kmb1966 03/05/20 05:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Class A, gas or diesel

I've had both, gas and diesel. Yes the diesel is quieter and rides a little bit better than my gas one did, but the only thing I got frustrated with the gas unit was that I couldn't get gasoline at the truck stop pumps. Seems new gas stations have the pumps situated where it is cumbersome to get in with a large gas motorhome, especially if towing also. So we tried to stick with Flying-J, but there are many areas where there is no F-J. My V10 acceleration on On-Ramps was much better than my Cat330 diesel. MPG on the V10 was around 7-8, on the Cat330 I get 6.5-7.5 I wouldn't hesitate going with a Gas, but just test drive it on bumpy and at highway speeds first.
kmb1966 02/17/20 06:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1200 operates without ground connected

It is normal to have metal pipe grounded to stop any potential (or at least reduce the chance) arcing. It could be a higher resistance then a good solid ground connection via a copper wire. yes. I have it re-connected to the ground wire. I was re-connecting everything when I noticed that if I connected the 12V before the ground wire, the propane igniter engaged and the burner lit. I now have the GND connector on the ground copper wire again.
kmb1966 02/06/20 10:56am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 operates without ground connected

Do you have copper propane piping? One of my refrigerators ran on the hot & the propane copper pipe until the broken ground was discovered. yes. that has to be how it is being grounded.
kmb1966 02/05/20 11:23am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 operates without ground connected

It’s probably grounded through the 3rd pin of the AC power cord and I’m pretty sure it is normal. yes, but the only thing I noticed is that it will also operate when the 120 cord is unplugged making the refrigerator go to propane mode.
kmb1966 02/05/20 08:54am Tech Issues
Norcold 1200 operates without ground connected

I have been working on my Norcold 1200 again and have noticed that the unit will power up and operate when only connecting the 12 volt (+) supply to the rear control board connector labeled "12V". The connector labeled GND can be disconnected totally. Obviously there refrigerator is somehow already grounded somewhere, but I am wondering if this is a problem or is normal??
kmb1966 02/05/20 08:17am Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Defend ARP Device

Worked up this illustration of controller wiring: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dHLJlRFxYguCLPor-mIRmL3yH4QX2nEov3Bw-jJmhsbRjiJCeTHFOOm8GcERZnOl0y5kEBadVbngyre-X_v41-UWtzjllvoS52td1BDJyDRowE0soThVNhdmwofTQadKa5FBtrF24xjVSK9_faU8Zui0Y9exUPMBoF7f-inkVGCY6Zo01xX9FW8qG-FlcuvMhTJBi6GFBRU2QTThMNRc94-vC6v9rmY0xfeduM3bEskofXJaIe0-yK-_xLEnFl7YHdoe5Dhc8zgsX6DLqrcPFd30ywa27Rzx97QuKKnw1axLrXc7g6YlHod5y-T4SyWEpfPqIx6xoDH6ssAfcO0xf0AkvCJzFixT7nwnilZGlL-8Oelw1KyxWYEosEYo1dYwONdaIlkCo43HsZ5kF0loGiz3l-iKp_D2SL6oZDJsPvb0IjMZ9Bbd0TW4HuG7wrAQ7B_6JNPAc9abHPm_ht_4MSox-uUquM_j6WmiqNaIk9kfcZ-le4jcAgJRRA8CrUtVrR1T-LY9Lms0QTHDbfg5F_2OXFwcg06yUPrUsObhmkaX2Nq0Z0LDa3QGDhY279MPmOOasCOaP1qx2gTBPQaurZdAJRk5uWjwQrF-nAGWSjqdAP_P7u0pPMw78r69hAKSuvXTv5ZUacQbPCky1kgMNHbIAEGTgEOgBoRf2XK5XpIIIQUuhuaxGkGQslLcaIAMpHwSWss40WdzrEVCzLl1OIBDE2xtjKOJbg_orER3LX2uazvY2A=w525-h480-no I have a question regarding this connection: The Red Wire connects to the supplying 12 volt wire that was originally connected to the connector labeled "12V" on the refrigerator control board. The yellow wire connects to the refrigerator control board where the supplying 12 volt wire used to be. The Green wire connects to the supplying ground wire that was connected to the refrigerator control board labled "Gnd". Question: What happens to that open connector spot on the refrigerator control board where that ground wire used to be connected?? do you leave it empty or do you twist in another wire and connect it together with the green wire? :h
kmb1966 02/04/20 02:51pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Defend ARP Device

I've been boondocking in cool temperatures and the blower circuit has not been coming on, so the fridge circulation blowers are off. This affects propane use, so I lashed up a very simple option to control the circulation blowers from the fridge controller. It is working well. See "OWNER OPTION: Operating the fridge circulation blowers from the fridge controller {OR} the Fridge Defend controller" http://bit.ly/2Qyw9Ac After researching through the ARP directions, I lowered the temperature to which the blower comes on. I think it was defaulted at 125 and I lowered it down 1 setting. Now the fan comes on more often especially during cooler weather.
kmb1966 01/26/20 10:28am Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Defend ARP Device

I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists. The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install? I use the fan output (12 volt +)from the ARP for both my external and internal fans. It is just a 12 volt positive output. The ground is the same. This allows my internal fans to only run when the external fans are required. Not sure this is the best approach but seems to work well. yes, I agree. That is what I did too, but where did you connect up the black wires of the internal fans?
kmb1966 01/18/20 03:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Fridge Defend ARP Device

I have a question on this: How do you wire up the internal fans? The blue wire provides the power(12volt) but how did you ground it? I grounded mine to the black wire on the light, but I am concerned that I may have done this incorrectly. Since I did this, ironically, the thermistor is reading erratically at times. I changed the thermistor but it still is reading odd. It may have nothing to do with the fan install, but it is odd that this behavior with the thermistor began when I connected up the internal fans. I plan to disconnect the internal fans and see if the problem persists. The problem I am experiencing is the thermistor after a few days will read very low (11 degrees) even though it is 50 in the frig, and therefore the cooling unit not being triggered to come on and cool the frig. Happens after a few days of running. Like I said, it may have nothing to do with this ARP device, but it is a strange situation. How did you wire up the internal fans on your install?
kmb1966 01/17/20 06:40am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

Replace the Rear Control board. Remember the Thermister reading in diag mode is the FIN temp. The actual refer temp will be 10 degrees warmer. Also, a Defective Thermister will test(Ohm) out correctly. But, since you have replaced it, go with the control board. Are you positive the 4 wire quick connect by the interior light has good solid pin connections for the 2 wires to the Thermister? Doug Hi Doug, Thanks for you input. I think that the connectors by the interior light are OK, (at least they look OK). But it is worth mentioning to you that the internal fans(2) from the ARP Device also connect to the black wire on this interior light. Perhaps that could be the cause of the problem? Possibly. In 25 years of working on hundreds of 1200's I have never heard or seen this type problem. I thought you stated you disconnected the ARP device and it still malfunctioned? There are 4 wires Positive/Ground(2) for the light. The other 2 go to the Thermister and should not be affected since they are separate. I thought maybe the pins at the connector may have corrosion and causing lack of OHM signal. Doug I have not disconnected the ARP unit, but I did simply turn it off and test with the same results. I think I should unwire the ARP unit and re-test, or at least unwire the 2 internal fans and re-test. What seems ODD is that I cannot get it to malfunction in the LP-GAS mode.
kmb1966 01/13/20 08:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

Replace the Rear Control board. Remember the Thermister reading in diag mode is the FIN temp. The actual refer temp will be 10 degrees warmer. Also, a Defective Thermister will test(Ohm) out correctly. But, since you have replaced it, go with the control board. Are you positive the 4 wire quick connect by the interior light has good solid pin connections for the 2 wires to the Thermister? Doug Hi Doug, Thanks for you input. I think that the connectors by the interior light are OK, (at least they look OK). But it is worth mentioning to you that the internal fans(2) from the ARP Device also connect to the black wire on this interior light. Perhaps that could be the cause of the problem?
kmb1966 01/13/20 01:22pm Tech Issues
Norcold 1200 - Thermistor temps wrong until power cycled

I am troubleshooting an ongoing problem with my Norcold 1200. It cools fine for a few days and then suddenly will stop cooling. Putting the Norcold in diagnostic mode, the thermistor reading will show very low temperature readings. For example the thermistor temperature will show 11 degrees even though it is 58 degrees in the refrigerator and 45 in the freezer. - If I turn the refrigerator OFF and then back ON using the control panel, it has no effect, thermistor temp is still wrong. - If I disconnect the thermistor and re-connect it, the thermistor will read the correct temperature and the cooling unit will come on and cool fine for a few days and then suddenly start reading incorrectly again (very low) and therefore cooling unit won't come on. - I've replaced the thermistor with a new one, and the new one does the same thing. Reads correctly for a few days and then starts reading very low and therefore cooling unit won't come on. - I don't think the problem exists if the refrigerator is in LP-GAS mode. Seems to work fine all the time in gas mode. - I do have an ARP (frig defend) device on the frig. Turning it off and back on also causes the thermistor to read correctly. I don't think the ARP has anything to do with this though because if I turn the ARP OFF altogether, the problem still happens. Still testing.....
kmb1966 01/13/20 10:37am Tech Issues
RE: Dash AC blows out of the defrost vents

Doug, Have you experimented with a vacuum reservoir along with check valve to maintain adequate vacuum to the HVAC system under high throttle/low vacuum situations? Yes. I have experimented with dozens of attempted fixes over the years, including dealing with the OEM motorhome makers and Evans/tempcon. NOTHING works. The only thing that works and is consistent is adding a 12 volt electric vacuum pump. My statement about inherent vacuum leaks came from the makers of the Dash AC evap systems. I have replaced various vacuum motors and dash switches per the OEM's instructions and none fixed the vacuum leak problem. When the engine goes to zero vacuum, it does NOT pull Vacuum from the reservoir ball. The system just uses up what little vacuum it has. Doug I took Doug's advice on this and this worked perfectly. Was fairly easy to do, wasn't expensive and worked perfect. I put a switch on my dashboard to manually turn the pump on/off. Tried everything else and nothing else worked. Mine was doing exactly what you describe.
kmb1966 09/30/19 05:24pm Class A Motorhomes
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