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RE: PU sales 2nd quarter (from an interesting source)

Dodge deserves lots of credit for moving from a distant third place in sales not that long ago to a very strong position.
ktmrfs 07/23/19 11:41am Tow Vehicles
RE: Black holding tank censors

1) ignore them 2) replace with horst miracle probes (better but not foolproof) 3) Install and external sensor system like the SeeLevel or similar. (Almost foolproof, to much buildup from bad habits can upset even these)
ktmrfs 07/22/19 06:16pm Travel Trailers
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

This is a fascinating revelation about the Easy Start (or HyperEngineering’s Soft Start?), and the unintended (and undisclosed?) consequences that might happen... Though not quite of the same makings, my Prosine 2.0 shore power ‘pass-thru’ type inverter will temporarily interrupt poor shore or generator power, even if the inverter is panel switch is switched to OFF... Having past experienced many of this same generator/air conditioner run issues, my Soft Start may be yet another nagging variable... actually either the owners manual and/or information on their website describes what it does when it senses impending overload.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 06:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda 2000i leaking gas around carb

some honda 2000i are covered by a recall for fuel leak you might check and see if yours is one.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 06:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Cell Booster Question

I have a 4G X RV too and I was confused about the cradle statement. I don’t have one. Mine has an interior antenna which Wilson states is good for 4-10’. Mine works better than that. I did speed tests close and far away and results were consistently the same. The trucker version has a cradle. If your in a marginal signal area what you describe is what I've seen as well. It's when there is NO unboosted signal or unboosted signal near -115/-120 db that the cradle works but inside antenna becomes really marginal, at least for me. I also have the 4G X RV. I bought a cradle for my system. It's wired through a splitter one side goes to the cradle the other side goes to the inside antenna. yes I lose 3db gain, but is more versatile. Often times I put my hotspot in the cradle for internet etc. and let the phones use the inside antenna.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 06:05pm Technology Corner
RE: Cell Booster Question

the more gain you need, the closer the phone needs to be to the inside antenna. The more gain you need the higher in the air you want the outside antenna. The more gain you need the more directional you want the outside antenna. We have the Weboost RV setup. in areas where the signal level w/o the booster is in the -100 to -110db range a omni outside antenna and being within a few feet of the internal antenna. When the singnal level is in the -110 db or lower, the phone needs to be in the cradle antenna and the outside antenna sometimes needs to be a yagi. And in any case, the amount of boost you get depends on how close you are to the inside antenna. If all you need is voice phone service or messaging, the lower your signal can be. If you want internet you want as strong a signal as possible which is best achieved by the phone being in the inside antenna cradle. As an example this last weekend I was in a place with a unboosted signal level of -110db, voice but very marginal internet. with the weboost on and the internal antenna about 4 ft away the signal was near -100db, not bad, very good for voice marginal for internet. With the phone in the cradle signal level was -80db, very very good for internet. I've been studying the WeBoost 4G-x RV, thinking about upgrading from my Wilson Sleek. When you mention about putting the phone in the cradle in your Weboost system, I'm left confused, as in studying online what is included with the Weboost 4G-x RV package, I don't see a cradle. Is the 4G-x RV the model you have, or do you have a different model? I have the 75ohm RV system, but it didn't come with a cradle antenna, I bought it seperate. What I can say is that the cradle can gives me 10db or more boost over setting the phone next to the antenna included with the RV system. How much difference in boost is dependent on how strong the unboosted signal is. The booster won't always give the 50+db max gain. Typically the system will boost to a signal level that gives a certain Signal to noise ratio and then the provider limits power. They only want to allow enough power to give the acceptable performance level. increasing signal beyond that gives no benefit to you and can have a negative effect on others on the same tower. What I've found is that when the unboosted signal is around -115db or lower (below about -115 is a no signal condition) the cradle gives better reception. I've had conditons with no signal w/o the booster and with the booster -100db so it's really maxing out the gain to even get me a signal. In that case the cradle gives me something useable, the inside antenna marginal if I'm next to it and nothing if I'm even a few ft away.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 06:00pm Technology Corner
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

the 2000 runs out of "omph" at about 4000-5000ft on a hot day (6000+ft density altitude). and the easy start will start to cycle the AC on and off. The nice thing it is catches the overload BEFORE the 2000 does so it will shut the AC off for 5 minutes then try a restart. I don't get that... is the voltage dropping to keep the current up? My Westinghouse 2500, once it reaches it's limit, it's done. the easy start monitors voltage and current. I talked to them after mine did a shutdown before the gen actually overloaded and tripped. They obviously won't disclose all the details, but the easy start does monitor voltage and current and has an algorithm to determine when they think the generator is overloading. On an AC motor as voltage drops, current rises, (less "back emf"). So I suspect they look at voltage and current compared to startup and when they think the generator is nearing an overload, they turn off the AC, wait 5 minutes then restart and monitor again. The nice thing about this is for example if you have a brain fade, have the AC on and decide to pop a sandwich in the microwave to warm it up, rather than the generator cutting off power completely, the easy start will drop out the AC, let the microwave run. Kinda a poor man's "load shed device". I actually tried that to see what would happen and that's exactly what happened. Didn't need to go out and reset the generator. And about 5 minutes later, AC fired up again, right on que! Now from talking with them it sounds like they have done pretty extensive evaluation of the unit with honda 2000's so they probably can determine quite well when the typical honda 2000 is nearing overload. How well the same algorithm works on other generator I don't know. But most now are inverter generators, so they probably share pretty similar characteristics.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 01:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Engine braking now vs then.

You lose exhaust braking when the torque convertor is no longer locked up at low speeds. at least on my duramax I wouldn't use the word "lose", it's "reduced effectiveness". In first gear yes, torque converter isn't locked so the effect isn't as great, but it is still helping especially as the rev's increase. now once your down to 15mph or so, rpm are down, exhaust flow is down, and it isn't as effective for sure.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 01:48pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cell Booster Question

the more gain you need, the closer the phone needs to be to the inside antenna. The more gain you need the higher in the air you want the outside antenna. The more gain you need the more directional you want the outside antenna. We have the Weboost RV setup. in areas where the signal level w/o the booster is in the -100 to -110db range a omni outside antenna and being within a few feet of the internal antenna. When the singnal level is in the -110 db or lower, the phone needs to be in the cradle antenna and the outside antenna sometimes needs to be a yagi. And in any case, the amount of boost you get depends on how close you are to the inside antenna. If all you need is voice phone service or messaging, the lower your signal can be. If you want internet you want as strong a signal as possible which is best achieved by the phone being in the inside antenna cradle. As an example this last weekend I was in a place with a unboosted signal level of -110db, voice but very marginal internet. with the weboost on and the internal antenna about 4 ft away the signal was near -100db, not bad, very good for voice marginal for internet. With the phone in the cradle signal level was -80db, very very good for internet.
ktmrfs 07/22/19 09:49am Technology Corner
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

microair rocks the world I went with Westinghouse 2500 to gain a little bit more overhead in the same small package.I'd put $500 into a better generator that has lots of uses around the house before I'd spend $350 on a one trick pony that can do nothing else. YOMV. whatever works best. For me, a generator that is easy to cart around and the microair $300 has worked out well. Just talked to our RV tech. They've installed the Microair and EasyStart. We plan to do that too to run one AC with our Honda eu2000. In Idaho you may run into a problem with the 2000. Based on my brothers who lives in souther idao's experience, and mine, with the easy start the 2000 will easily start the AC even in eco mode and then comes the issue. the 2000 runs out of "omph" at about 4000-5000ft on a hot day (6000+ft density altitude). and the easy start will start to cycle the AC on and off. The nice thing it is catches the overload BEFORE the 2000 does so it will shut the AC off for 5 minutes then try a restart. sometimes it keeps running sometimes it shuts off again. Now either of us tried installing the high altitude jets in the 2000, that's worth a try and may solve the problem. Sometimes it would run for 30+ minutes then cycle, sometimes only 10 minutes. depended on altitude and temperature. He is often camping at 6-7K ft. I had loaned him one of my 2000's till the 2200's we ordered came in. What he found is that the honda 2200 will run consistently at 7000+ ft all day long. the few extra watts AND a much larger motor makes a world of difference.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 10:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

microair rocks the world I went with Westinghouse 2500 to gain a little bit more overhead in the same small package.I'd put $500 into a better generator that has lots of uses around the house before I'd spend $350 on a one trick pony that can do nothing else. YOMV. whatever works best. For me, a generator that is easy to cart around and the microair $300 has worked out well.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 05:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Engine braking now vs then.

"In 2009 I towed our 5ver over the Creston Salmo pass in BC with an 03 Duramax. I manually placed the truck in low gear and listened to the engine rev to over 5000 rpm as it struggled to hold back the gcvw of about 21000 lbs... about 35 mph." 2003 Duramax LB7-----REV Limiter set at 3250 rpm :H I have a US Gear 4" exhaust brake on my 5.9L Cummins Truck/trailer combo 22k Exhaust brake 6% grade----55 mph Glad to see exhaust braking OEM ------ great tool for diesel trucks nope! duramax with grade brake or exhaust brake shuts off fuel and will rev to 5000rpm. friction increase as the cube of RPM so doesn't take much increase in rpm to increase braking. If duramax goes above 5,000 it will shift up a gear regardless of what the gear slector is in. That's why the tach goes to 5K. And why GM eliminated the redline above 3200 because people weren't reading the diesel suppliment owners manual on how the grade brake/exhaust brake works and what rpm it can go to. To the OP's comment. I had (son now has) an 04.5 duramax with grade brake only, and now a 15.5 with exhaust brake. While the grade brake feature provides significant retardation, it is no where near as effective as the exhaust brake.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 05:05pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Cell Phone Booster Antenna

I have one of the fibreglass RV wash poles that colapses and I just attach the antenna with built in ground plane to the pole, extend it out and then drop it into a 3' long tube I have welded to the back bumper. then feed the cable through the window. I can either attach an omni or yagi directional antenna to the pole depending on how far we are from cell service.
ktmrfs 07/21/19 05:01pm Technology Corner
RE: Shock question. Please point me in the right direction

again, I'll say the bilsteins. on my 2004.5 I installed bilsteins at about 10K miles. the difference was dramatic both loaded and unloaded. The factory shocks IMHO aren't valved well for either unloaded or loaded riding. The bilsteins are still working well on the truck (now our sons) at 200K miles. When we got our 2015 I put bilsteins on as soon as I could get them. again factory valving on the stock shocks wasn't what I liked. In both cases I used the HD yellow units. there is a firmer set for lifted suspensions or larger tires which the claim is a stiffer ride with stock suspension. I think the HD yellows are a 4500 or 4600 series while the blue units are the 5100 series.
ktmrfs 07/19/19 09:37am Travel Trailers
RE: Honda 2200i and 15k AC

the 2200 is a HUGE improvement over the 2000 especially as you get above sea level. I had a 2000 and it would not reliably start my AC at sea level. I did get the easy start and the 2000 would easily start the AC at 5000ft but after a few minutes overload. Now with the 2200 at 5000+ft for me and 7000ft my brother is at the 2200 will easily run the AC all day. And at 4500ft a fellow camper had a 13.5K BTU AC and we on a lark decided to see if a 2200 would start it without the easy start. turned off eco mode, started the AC and the 2200 barely grunted to get it started and again continued to run. at 4500ft the 2200 has over 300W of margin. I can run the AC AND the fridge on electric with no overload. IMHO the biggest reason is that the 2200 has a much larger engine, something like 125cc vs the 2000 so altitude doesn't affect the output near as much as the smaller engine on the 2000 does.
ktmrfs 07/19/19 08:57am Tech Issues
RE: Current GM / Chevy Reliability

my 04.5 duramax is close to turning 200K with minimal issues. front wheel bearings, which was a known issue that latest bearings fixed. One injector under warranty, other than that pretty reliable. 2015.5 just turned 50K. yes, it had the (in)famous DEF heater failure that the dealer fixed quickly no questioned asked along with a free loaner car. And a onstar module that failed and was replaced under warranty again no issues getting it covered. I'd buy another in a heartbeat. But IMHO GM, Ford, Dodge are such good rigs that it's more a matter of what YOU like best, not what I like best.
ktmrfs 07/18/19 03:18pm Tow Vehicles
RE: We Boost and 5 G?

if you are far enough away to need a booster you currently are WAY away from any 5G. In fact if your out of the central area of major cities, you are far away from 5G. I can't currently imagine camping in any area near 5G service. 4G another story
ktmrfs 07/18/19 03:10pm Technology Corner
RE: Which Progressive Dynamics Converter/Charger To Buy

the first limitation you may run into is likely driven by your generator. A 2000W generator will run a 60A PD fine, 75A or bigger is a possible issue with a generator overload at full current. The PD units have a bad power factor and draw more current than you calculate from the watts rating. A 100A is definitely a no no with a 2000W generator. If you have a 1000W or so generator stay with the 45A. A 3000W or so generator, no issues. I have 4 GC batteries and what I did was replace the WFCO with a 55A PD unit and added a 75A PD deck mount in the pass through and wired it off a seperate breaker. So.... when boondocking with one honda 2000 I use the 55A to charge, if I happen to have the honda 2000's paralleled I turn both on and get about 120A into the bank when deep discharged. speeds up the charging to 80% or so.
ktmrfs 07/15/19 09:07am Tech Issues
RE: Dehumidifier ?

a compressor dehumidifer suitable for a RV will draw about 1-2 amps max, no where near what an AC uses. Ours draws less than 2 amps and will pull 5 gallons of water/day out of the trailer during humid fall/spring days at the coast. They are basically a VERY small unvented AC unit. room air passes over the cooling side to extract water, the heat side is just vented into the room. The electronic dehumidifiers typically use a peltier device (semiconductor) , not very efficient, nor will they remove enough moisture if you are in a situation where the humidity feels high. Cool (pun intended) I sit corrected. Could you give me a link towards a "compressor dehumidifier suitable for a RV"? I'd love to have one myself that relatively sips power. I would then relegate my peltier version to my upstairs closet. haier makes almost all of the portable dehumidifiers available, some under their name, most under "house brands" or sold brand name of major appliance companies. common sizes are from about 30 pints (sounds a lot bigger than 3.75 gallons!) up to about 90 pints. Unless your trailer is quite large with lots of room a 30 pint will probably do you well. That's what we have and the first day we fire it up on a trip with humidity I'll empty it twice, then maybe once/day. Take a trip to Lowes, Home Depot, Wallmart, etc and take a look and buy what seems to best suite your fancy and you have room for. the bigger the less times you will need to empty, the smaller the easier it is to store and be out of the way when running. Almost all have an outlet port to drain directly into a drain rather than the bucket if you want. Haven't used that feature. We have the haier 30 pint. It has a manual humidity dial, I looked for it online, since it is a few years old, it looks like it has been replaced with something different. the old "new model year". same basic functions. It draws about 15 amps on average from the battery bank when running on the inverter, so we've used during part of the daytime when boondocking relying on the roof and portable solar to run it along with other stuff and still keep the batteries charged.
ktmrfs 07/14/19 07:32pm Travel Trailers
RE: Dehumidifier ?

My only concern with using the electric heater and AirCon together is the amperage draw if both kick on at the same time. That can easily exceed your 30amp system. I had to be too cold with the Air to keep the humidity down and not sweat in bed in my Wolf Pup last year. If possible temperature wise, a cracked window and a vent fan on works better. I did buy and use one off those electronic dehumidifiers. It helped some, not near as effective as a compressor type, but uses much less power. A compressor type D/H uses power similar to an AC unit. It will eat up most of your available power. a compressor dehumidifer suitable for a RV will draw about 1-2 amps max, no where near what an AC uses. Ours draws less than 2 amps and will pull 5 gallons of water/day out of the trailer during humid fall/spring days at the coast. They are basically a VERY small unvented AC unit. room air passes over the cooling side to extract water, the heat side is just vented into the room. The electronic dehumidifiers typically use a peltier device (semiconductor) , not very efficient, nor will they remove enough moisture if you are in a situation where the humidity feels high.
ktmrfs 07/14/19 06:01pm Travel Trailers
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