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RE: SC power supply charging?

I use an adjustable voltage power supply exclusively for plug in charging duties. Mine has a shunted ammeter/voltmeter amp hour and watt hour counter on the DC output, and some additional computer fans added to the casing. These fans and ammeter, would still run when there is No AC available, unless I disconnected the Anderson powerpoles. Now, I use a 50 amp 'Ideal Diode' so when I unplug from AC, I do not have to unplug the DC connector from the power supply. The ammeter and fans shut off instantly when I unplug from AC. The Ideal diode only loses 0.04 volts across it at 40 amps, as opposed to the 0.4v+ of a silicone diode, but even if there was a non negligible loss, I could just turn the voltage dial a little higher to compensate. I also parallel other power supplies/ chargers when 40 amps does not float my boat, and the Ideal Diode perhaps keeps the power supply happier. It's my opinion a adjustable voltage power supply yield vastly superior charging to automated 3/4 or 12 stage chargers( the 12th stage is fellating the proud smart charger/ battery owner), and they do not get confused when there is loads on the battery while charging.
landyacht318 07/25/20 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger

I wouldn't think so. Something's not right with the batteries or your measurement tools. New Batteries do behave weird the first few cycles in my experience, but not that weird.
landyacht318 07/12/20 11:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Powermax 75 amp converter/charger

A pair of gc-2s at a rested 12.38v, which only require 13 amps to be nearly instantly brought to 14.68v, are sulfated. If they were healthy, I'd expect it to take at least 45 minutes or more for amps to taper to that level with 75 amps of charger available seeking 14.68v. The hydrometer will reveal the truth, and you can then ask about or search for recovery procedures which might or might not be effective, depending on how hard the sulfation is. I've a newish healthy single group 31 TPPL AGM and 134 amps of plug in charging source, at 11.90v starting point, 134 amps was not enough to achieve 14.7v at battery terminals instantly. The breaker blew and then 'only' 94 amps still took nearly 10 minutes to bring the voltage to 14.7v at which point amps started tapering. This is a powermax adjustable voltage 100 amp model, and low input voltage is responsible for 94 amps instead of 100. A new 12AWG extension cord and it made 98 amps. I had it in parallel with my 40 amp Meanwell for those 134 amps into a depleted but healthy group 31 TPPl AGM. How many amps it takes to bring a battery to a certain voltage is indicative of state of charge and state of health of that battery, and the more experience with that charging source on that battery, the better.
landyacht318 07/12/20 05:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace fan speed control

If using a PWM motor speed controller on a fan motor, seek one with 21kHZ or higher, as the windings will whine annoyingly at reduced speeds, depending on the age of your ears. It's amazing how much quieter a well balanced fan impeller is. I use a free accellerometer app on my phone, and some trial and error adding small weights, to greatly improve fan noise. Some fans have gone from an intolerable drone, to 'is it even on?'
landyacht318 07/03/20 01:34am Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator Interior fan ?

Interior fridge fans do not need to be powerful. They actually increase the heat load that must be sucked out, the more powerful the fan the more heat it generates. I use a discontinued 0.03 amp Sunon Maglev 40mm x 20mm 6.3 cfm fan in my small compressor fridge, and it has run 24/7/365 since October 2012. Huge difference in interior temp range. was 22f to 44f inside without fan, and is within 4 degrees F with it, and I use a lower thermostat setting. I tapped into the light's circuit before its reed switch.
landyacht318 06/25/20 02:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Ventline Stove Hood Fan Blades

I have several of the Papst fans, and have great respect for their design and manufacture. While sold as new, they are obviously pulled from some sort of equipment as there is dust inside once one removes the E clip on the hub and has a look inside, also some scratches on the fan body from whomever removed them from whatever they were in. They have huge dual NMB sealed ball bearings, similar to the size on skateboards/roller skates. Their accumulated hours upto that point are unknown, but likely a tiny fraction of how much longer the fan will run. They draw about 0.56 amps at 12.8v and move a respectable amount of air at that voltage. They are rated upto 30V. Above 28v the amp draw starts rising exponentially and it does not get all that much faster. The 283 cfm rating is likely at 24v but I've seen it speed at 242cfm @ 24v too. There is a pretty big speed difference between 24 and 28 volts. Not really sure which spec to believe, but it does move a lot of air, especially for the current consumed and noise made. CFM ratings are a bit misleading, as they measure the velocity of the air and multiply it times the diameter of the fan. where they measure that velocity can have huge differences in final number, and CFM readings are taken in a no restriction environment. When restricted, a high cfm fan might have aerodynamically stalled fan blades, making noise and little air flow. I've not seen any static pressure rating of this fan. Minimum possible rotational speed is ~7.33v, +/- 0.1v but it needs closer to 8v in order to start spinning on its own, this latter number depends on temperature. At minimum speed the fan is super quiet, more of a slight clicking, and one can follow an individual fan blade as it rotates with their eyes. Amp draw through a buck boost converter is right around the 0.1 amp range @7.33v. The 3 Papst fans I have, the minimum rotational speed varied slightly as did the noise made at minimum speed. I now power mine from a 10 amp buck boost converter which has a current control potentiometer, and limit current to 2.42 amps which limits voltage to ~29v The fan blades are well balanced with little improvement possible. The air output is fairly column like, not spreading far and wide like some computer fans with 4 hotspots of flow between the hub supports. Resistance behind the fan blades does not greatly reduce flow and greatly increase noise, like it does with many fans. Getting some sort of finger protection in front of or behind impeller can be an is$ue depending on application. They sell grilles for its unique hole spacing. I had one failure of a Papst, but I was trying a new 5 amp buck boost converter which fried, then when i bypassed it the Papst released some magic smoke. Avoid 5 amp buck/boost converters, in my experience, I only found one good one, but unintentionally smoked it. There are 5 or 6 wires inside the jacket, red and black are obvious. One of the others could be for PWM speed control. IDK. I've not had good luck sending a PWM signal on the 4th wire with PWM speed control on a 4 wire PWM fan. Lots of fan failures in short periods of time. If one wants to feed a PWM speed control signal on red and black power feed wires, make sure the PWM motor speed controller you buy says 21kHZ or higher, or the fan will whine annoyingly at reduced speeds, to anyone without well aged ears. If one wants to get the full speed from the 24v Papst fan they need to be able to feed it upto 30 volts. I've run mine, unintentionally to about 33v for over a half hour. That was before I had a buck boost converter with current limiting potentiometer. The hub was warm, not hot. One can turn the voltage pot upto 28v on such a device and use the current limiting pot to control fan speed too, but I find this is less efficient and harder to dial in a low speed. I have a friend who is using a 28v boost converter then plans on using a PWM speed controller on its output. if he cant figure out which wire, if any is the PWM wire for speed control. I do not like this approach, but at 28v his papst was using about 0.15 less amps than mine through a buck boost converter at 28v output. Could be measurement error too, as we are 2k miles apart.
landyacht318 06/25/20 02:40pm Tech Issues
RE: VMAX Charge Tank Battery Reviews?

Ok, I'll apologize for the nimrod comment. Sorry. Thanks for additional info on how your batteries were used in their life so far. Hope they go another 6 years for you.
landyacht318 04/07/20 06:58pm Tech Issues
RE: VMAX Charge Tank Battery Reviews?

Still going, vs still going strong. One requires No data, experience or knowledge, only pride and ego and ignorance, The other requires only Data, for points of comparison YOur rope comment only proves my point about a fragile ego, even though my nimrod comment was directed at battery neophytes on Automotive forums. Haw haw. Glad your batteries are still working, but without offering any information on how they've been used, about how many cycles over the subsequent years, and to what depth of discharge, even as a round guestimate, your 'still going strong' report, is basically worthless. I too saw when these batteries came on the market years ago and wondered about their quality, and your report nearly 6 years later satisfies none of my curiosity. So give a guesstimate, how many cycles did they accumulate in those 6 years, and to what depth? My last AGM battery lasted 6 years, but it accumulated well over 1200 deep cycles, about 100 of those well below 50% and many thousands of engine starts and cycles to 90% or higher are not counted towards that ~1200 figure. I had a nimrod on an automotive based forum say he gets 6 years out of his starting battery for 1/5th the price, implying I am an idiot for having an expensive AGM battery I insure reaches full charge regularly, and he could not seem to realize there is a difference when one is cycled deeply, providing hundreds of KWH over its life, and the other likely never passes 1KWH. A battery owner on an rv forum is expected to give some information on how the batteries are cycled, you provided NONE just a 'still going strong' claim with Zero evidence that they are still indeed strong.
landyacht318 04/07/20 05:04pm Tech Issues
RE: VMAX Charge Tank Battery Reviews?

How many deep cycles accumulated in those years? To what average depth? How are you determining they are 'still going strong?' Not saying they are a good or bad battery. On automotive forums, the nimrods there( concerning batteries) will say their battery is 'still going strong' for X years now, then the next day, it fails to start their engine and their 'still going strong' claim was obviously absurd. If they had a voltmeter wired to their battery and observed it every engine start in those subsequent years, they would have not said still going strong, but that the voltage held every engine start has been declining in a mostly linear manner, but lately it seems to have dipped further, then one day it failed to start. Regarding deep cycling, one could observe voltage held under X amount of load, with X amount of AH removed from the battery, and compare it to when teh battery was newer, and see the trend, how well capacity is being retained, but without this data all one can say is that it still meets their needs, whether their needs draw the battery to 90% state of charge, or 60%. My most recently AGM replaced battery, still holds a very surprisingly high voltage, when powering normal overnight loads. It was also my engine starting battery. The day before I got a new battery it almost failed to start my warm engine in mild ambient temps when fully charged. Now it is in my workshop being light cycled and still maintaining over 12.7v when I turn everything off. If I did not have the starting voltage data and the slow cranking, and judged its health solely by the voltage held in my workshop's evening loads previous to that, my regular overnight loads, I could make the 'still going strong' claim, but the ~180 amp load of my starter motor tells a very different story, as does the fact that amps never can taper to the level it is considered full. Without Data, all it is is opinion, and perhaps wishful thinking with a whole bunch of fragile ego involved. The Vmax tanks do seem to be pretty heavy for their group size, but I hardly trust amazon reviewers to have any inkling about battery performance other than it works or it does not. If it fails early most are completely oblivious about what a proper full recharge entails. If it has not failed yet, it is 'still going strong' without anything to support that claim.
landyacht318 04/07/20 03:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Understanding length of time for absorption & finish charge

My previous AGM, in its final 6 months of deep cycling life would never approach 0.5% of [email protected] 14.7v, but stall above that and then amps would start rising. Its replacement just keeps tapering to 0.0x amps at any voltage if left at absorption. when i lower it to 13.6v at 0.5%, and leave it overnight, when I crank it to 14.7v the next day it tapers to 0.0x, the X being as i can't accurately measure amperage less than that. I've two smaller chinese AGMS, 18 and 22Ah, The Ub12180 and UB12220. Both when newer refused to actually taper to 0.5%, but after a few deep cycles would. One of them will not go below 0.5%, but the newer one will. Both find bottom amps and bounce. amps start rising at some point. I try to not let this happen and at 0.5% call it macaroni and remove them or lower voltage to 13.6v. The screwy 31, a flooded marine battery, at the end of its life exhibited similar behavior, amps would taper to a certain point at absorption voltage, then start rising. My charging sources are constant voltage, not constant current, other than when the the charger's output terminals are still below the absorption voltage I have chosen. If I try to achieve constant current I fiddle my voltage potentiometers, keep raising them from a low point to keep the amps in the 5 per 100Ah of capacity range, but very rarely bother. The times I do this are on the smaller agms when I dont want them feasting on 25+ amps. the 18AH AGM says 5.4 amps max, the 22Ah AGM says 6.6 amps max. I double this rate almost each recharge but tripling/quadrupling that amount is not something i do other than to see what the quench amperage would be, as a data point, for future reference as they age. Neither small Chinese AGM warms significantly when doubling the maximum recommended rate. I'd not double the recommended rate in 90f+ ambient temps and I might not choose to do so once they have aged and accumulated more cycles. I don't have any more flooded batteries to cycle, but adjustable voltage charging sources and the hydrometer removed all the mystery and guesswork with the screwy 31.
landyacht318 04/04/20 01:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Understanding length of time for absorption & finish charge

Gee, I need to get from point A, to point B, but my tires are new, and I don't want to get them dirty. :) Use the hydrometer/ refractometer, and rinse it after each use, and before putting it away rinse it a bit better and dry it. When Amps stop tapering at absorption voltage, and start rising, call em done, is another method. Or are you afraid of wearing out the spring on your DC Clampmeter's clamp? I've had the absorption stage take 4 hours and I've had it take 14 hours, and I certainly wont be venturing a guess on your batteries.
landyacht318 04/03/20 10:37pm Tech Issues
RE: 12v battery tender to equalize 6v

I've EQ's a Neighbor's pair of GC-2s in series more than once successfully with my 13 to 19 volt meanwell power supply. It did not take a huge amount of time, nor were the cells wildly out of sink with each other, they were just ~0.010 lower than I knew they could be. I make extensive use of voltage bucker modules and voltage booster modules and some combination buck/boost models, mostly to speed/brightness control fans or LEDs, but also for batteries different than 12v. Most of these have current limiting potentiometers too. One can easily follow 5 amps per 100Ah of capacity till 16v is achieved with such a bucker device, no homemade inline 12v lightbulb current limiting devices necessary. If charging 6v gc-2s individually were my objective, I could easily accomplish it without some 6v dedicated charging source, using a bucker, and I can and do charge 24v batteries from 12v sources too, using a booster. Heres a link to a 20 amp bucker with current control.
landyacht318 04/02/20 06:41pm Tech Issues
RE: ? L E D taillights

My vehicle uses 1157 park brake signal lamps. There are brighter incandescent options like the 3496, but supposedly, the only good ones come from Japan made for Honda. I got some led 1157's based on a friend's experience using a lux meter comparing brightness of both low and high 'filaments' in the same housing as my own. When installed I had to agree they were slightly brighter and deeper red than the new incandescent 3496's I had, more than enough brightness difference between low and high, and were visible from all angles just as well, not just right from behind and I deemed them acceptable. I liked the few extra alternator amps available for charging batteries at hot idle foot on the brake, the instant on and slightly brighter light. Fast forward less than 2 years, I was driving making a right turn, turn signal on and braking, and heard an angry horn, then a stacatto rhythm as if the driver behind me was trying to convey more than anger. On inspection of my rear lighting, I found the passenger side LED had failed. While I had a stick between seat and brake pedal holding the brakes on, the other LED started flickering and I found half the radially firing LEDS were no-op, the other half completely non-op. No idea how long it had been this way, but its likely more than a few weeks of obliviousness, and less than safe vehicular lighting. The 3496 incandescents I keep in the glove box, went back in. I had added add a LED CHMSL third brake light not long after the 1157 leds. It is so obvious just how much faster it lights up compared to the incandescents. I will someday likely get more 1157 BA-15d taillight LED bulbs, but that day is not today. I think they are driving the LEDS beyond their safe longevity range with not enough heatsinking, especially when 14.4v+ is reaching their sockets. The better made Phillips LED bulbs are $$$ and do not seem to be as bright as incandescents in many vehicles they are installed in, their only advantage being the instant on and less current consumption. Having experimented a LOT with 12v LEDs at different voltages, those without current limiting circuitry built in, will consume nearly 2x as much amperage at 14.7v as they will at 12.0v and be about 30 to 50% brighter, and make a LOT more heat. Since I removed my headlight current from passing through headlight switch, much more voltage gets to the other bulbs with the headlights on than before, and I cannot depend on voltage drop keeping the bulbs from getting too hot and if my battery is less than fully charged, I keep voltage at 14.7v, because I can. I'm glad that the horrible pink led brake lights of a few years ago are not readily seen anymore, I assume most who installed white leds behind red lenses had them fail and went back to incandescent, and like me regretted the purchase and effort required to replace them twice. What I despise is LED bulbs dropped into Headlamp incandescent housings, reflectors or projectors. Most drivers seem to actually want to blind the drivers on the other side of the road, or if they are unaware, just would not care anyway, as consideration for others is long gone in the self important douchewater personalities of today. It's worse than drivers leaving their high beams on and their forward lighting, and their ability to see is less than the halogens in the reflectors they removed. But its whiter light, and fashionable, and ignorant, arrogant, inconsiderate behavior is in no short supply today.
landyacht318 03/29/20 03:37pm Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

The blue insulated 'quick connectors' which are provided with these USB sources, and some of the 12v combo panels with voltmeter and switch and USB and 12v port, are very poor. They are not tin coated brass or aluminum even, but some other metal, and the blue plastic shears apart when crimping and they cannot properly clasp the tangs. Do not use them or even keep them for a 'just in case' situation. I dislike crimping insulated terminals even with the correct dies to do so, and usually remove the plastic/nylon insulation, then crimp, and solder over the crimp, then heatshrink, usually two different length layers of heatshrink. Much more time consuming but much more reliable. Lately I've just been soldering wires to the tangs, as I am out of the quick connects, and don't feel like going to acquire more, or placing an order. The parasitic draw of my 8 year old Blue Seas 1016 USB is somewhere under 0.01 amps. It has a small green LED, but that 5vDC is always there, so the device is always converting 12.xvdc to 5v even with no usb cords inserted or devices asking for juice. I am 24/7, but not always 365. I have in the past pulled the usb fuse when away, but not so much because of parasitic drag but to extend the life of the USB and peace of mind while away. As GTE says my Ciggy 12v receptacles have rarely been the issue, always the plug, but one is worthless without the other in most instances, the USB source being an exception, and they are an unreliable mechanical and electrical connection at best, and deserve zero praise. It's disappointing to see this horrible ubiquitous connector get any. Any that have not failed, simply have not failed yet. I've had a few which came with higher draw devices which eliminate the internal fuse, and some even have the glass fuse's endcap soldered directly to the wire inside the plug. Poorly soldered, and the failed fuse still appeared unblown. The most failures of plugs were of the exploded view design that GTE posted. The spring got so hot it changed color lost its spring and the spring and spring holder melted into the plastic. That was powering this laptop's 90 watt DC to DC powerbrick streaming some HD video. Two of them failed, and the second replacement, was provided for a 400 watt inverter, but came with a sticker on it saying to not use it for more than 120 watts, and it failed at just over half that current. Blue seas make their own plug version one inserts their own upto 14awg wire into, and I forget what I was powering but it also melted. I still use them where simply pushing on the connector to seat it and pulling it out slightly is convenient or I want something fused while testing boosters or buckers, but even here they have proved more trouble than they are worth. When there is a high pitched whine coming from within a connector when a PWM led dimmer or motor speed controller is being powered through it, then it is obvious the connector is ****, no matter how much faith one might have in it, or how much they dislike me. Avoid the ciggy plug and receptacle whenever possible. Even when used at half their 'maximum' rating, they will fail, its just a matter of time.
landyacht318 03/28/20 02:05pm Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

I still employ ciggy receptacles, and plugs and have highly capable 2 usb chargers which fit into them. I know they wont approach the wattage level where the receptacle or plug itself is in danger. Pulling out the usb plug from the socket just enough to eliminate the parasitic draw is easier than rigging up a switch or pulling the fuse. You say 80 watts is their continuous duty limitation, I say 60 .Many 12v receptacles will say 120 or 150 watts maximum, but this is wishful thinking and one best enjoy the smell of melting plastic if they are intending to ask them to pass this much current for more than a minute. But they also can rattle/ workl their way out of the plug under light wattages, and if they are somewhat looser than perfect, can emit more RFI noise and cause some USB charged devices to act weird, stopping charging or saying they are full when they are not or saying they are charging, when they are not. Having a USB ammeter and some tv channels prone to interference from DC to Dc converters, i can say with lots of experience, that the worst choice for fast reliable charging of my USB devices with minimal possibility of screwing up my actual channel 8 or actual 10, is the USB plugs inserted into 12v ciggy receptacles, where the hardwired one while in a somewhat less convenient location, rarely knocks out the Tv channels. I also have the PWR+ Dc to Dc laptop car adapter powering this laptop I am wringing on right now, it is likely a decade old, it is rated at 90 watts, though the average draw is 32 watts typing like this with two tabs open. Solid 60 watts or more is for dvd watching or streaming HD, or some other more intense CPU consuming tasks. I've been calling people crazy for 10+ years for insisting they need an inverter to power their original AC to DC powerbrick, when DC to Dc converter 'car adapter' is significantly more efficient and reliable( once ciggy plug is eliminated) at performing the same task. The original ciggy plug on my PWR+ car adapter melted arounf the internal fuse in a month, its replacement lasted 2, and the third I bought, but never employed a '12 amp' Blue seas and mating blue seas receptacle which has proven to be problematic too powering other things I've since switched to Anderson powerpoles and not an issue since in the subsequent 9+ years, with the input side. I have had issues with the 19.5v dc output wires. My Dell uses 3 wires and the barrell connector has a small pin in the middle. the thinner 3rd wire to this pin would break internally and the laptop would not charge. the 150 watt DC booster I linked would work fine to power my laptop, but the laptop battery will not charge. I use the dc to dc 150 watt booster for many things, like charging 24v Nicad battery packs or charging my 18Ah AGM at 14.7v while my regular battery is being held at 13.6v by my solar and it has exceeded that 150 watt rating for a good while without issue, but I did add a 60mm fan bridging the heatsinks. It's installed within some old inline ventilated powerbrick housing for some forgotten device. I've used it often for bringing 12v batteries upto 16.2 volts for an equalization charge. Its honestly among the best and most useful sub 3$ purchases I've ever made In short while 12v receptacles and some plugs can work 'just fine' for low draw devices for some period of time, they are an unreliable connection that adds more resistance than needed for the task at hand. Just because they are ubiquitous worldwide does not mean they are some greatly reliable connection. In my opinion they are best eliminated from anything requiring reliability and maximum efficiency, even if the wattage they are asked to pass is well below their 'quickly troublesome' range. I've experimented with them, running 10AWg to the receptacles and the plugs, and seeing how hot they get passing various amperages. It was a waste of solder and 10AWG and confirmed my suspicions, that they are always best eliminated on any circuit requiring reliability and efficiency I do still employ them. they are convenient, but I feel 60 watts is their continuous duty limit, and only when well wired, and somewhat new with the ground springs roughed up a little to grab the side walls of the receptacle tighter, and the spring loaded nipple tip kept clean, Caig Deoxit d5 clean, and the spring lengthened a bit and somewhat regularly to keep it pressed tightly against the back of the receptacle. I rarely ask mine to exceed 20 to 25 watts, powering leds, fans or these USB chargers, but when the LEDs start changing brightness, it is almost always remedied by pushing the plug back deeper in the receptacle, and if channel 8 or ten start pixellating and stuttering, pushing them deeper in their receptacles more often than not allows the tv signal to come though unadulterated with noise generated from poor spring loaded connections from some horrendous electrical connection designed 75 years ago. I am not powering the TV through the USB receptacle or the same wiring even feeding the USB/ciggy plug. It kills the reception even if They are powered by different batteries. You of course are welcome to your opinion, I was not attacking your product recommendation, I employ two very similar products. I was only sharing my experience having used them widely, pushed them to and past their limits with various designs and various gauges of wires entering receptacles and leaving the plugs. measuring the heat voltage drop and seeing whether they would knock out my channels 8 or ten and whether at that moment when they would, if bypassing the ciggy plug and receptacle itself allowed 8 or ten to be watchable. Much more often than not it did. Ciggy plugs/12v power ports plugs and receptacles are horrible unreliable electrical connections, best avoided whenever possible. the more current they are asked to pass the more important it becomes to have a back up connector on hand for their inevitable failure, as it is not a matter of if, but when, they fail. So Instead of having to fix things at the most inconvenient time possible to do so I recommend not having to fix it at all by eliminating the problem prone device in the first place instead of learning the hard expensive time wasting and material wasting way of those of us who have been there and have done that and never want to have to do it again. Eliminate the Ciggy plug/12v power port receptacle whenever possible, especially in the product planning stages.
landyacht318 03/28/20 12:35am Tech Issues
RE: How many amps does my inverter provide

Another case of the inverter not being required to do the task at hand. Anytime one can bypass the requirement of having to use the inverter it will likely save both money, and battery power. I recommend skipping the Ciggy plug whenever possible too, It is a horrible, contemptible, highly resistive electrical connection, that gets worse with age and the more current it is asked to pass. I've had one of the supposedly 'better' ciggy plug and mating receptacle buzz audibly when using a PWM dimmer on some leds, and could stop the whine/buzz simply by changing the pressure on the plug, but as soon as I let off it came back. There are USB receptacles designed to fit the same space as a ciggy plug 12v receptacle, This one shows Amps( @5vdc) as well as voltage reaching the plug. Shop around, that was just the first hit that looked like the product I have in mind and have employed on a friend's rig. I've installed a few of these in a friends vw bus and they do recharge his Kid's ipads at a high rate. The voltmeter and ammeter display is kind of a novelty, and is difficult to see when there are two usb cords installed in it. These do have a very small parasitic draw when they are not charging anything, somewhere under 0.01amps. Use a switch in line, or be able to pull the fuse easily, for storage mode. The inverter is wasteful when powering 5vDC USB ports or a 19.5vDC laptop. One can get dc to dc 'car adapters' for their specific laptop for about 25$ or less, and save 5 to 15 watts of energy over using the inverter powering the provided AC/DC power brick. 150 watt DC boost converters can be had for about 2$, if one has some DIY skills. Inverters are a necessary evil, but in my opinion, should always be the last resort, not the go to solution for everything household on battery power.
landyacht318 03/24/20 08:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

When I see posts like this, how come NOBODY ever questions HOW Jayco connects the wire to the Battery? I am talking about a 30 amp ATC fuse holder with 14 gauge wire pigtails............. A while back I bought a bunch of supposed 10AWG ATC inline fuse holders. They were 12 gauge SAE at best, and SAE wire gauge is 6 to 12% thinner than AWG I had acquired them to bypass the original HVac blower motor fuse, which like many vehicles, the whole circuit is underwired, and for other things. The original fuse holder had melted before my ownership of the vehicle and the previous owner had used a glass inline fuse holder instead, which lasted me all of 3 or 4 months before melting. It worked for about 7 months, and one day with blower motor on speed 3 of 4, I started smelling burning plastic, and turned off blower motor. I later found the fuse holder was completely melted around the 20 amp fuse. Later I got '8 AWG' Maxi fuse holders and when installed on this circuit, no more issues, not to say that these are built any better, but at least 8awg can wick away the heat from the fuse tang connection better. Where that wire joins inside the plastic molding is a huge resistive point. Not too long after that the blower motor started squealing, and the speed switch lever itself had been getting hot. On inspection I found The wires entering it were charred. I replaced everything including resistor pack, and used 8awg overkill from speed switch to new blower motor, and the amount of air the motor moved on high was at least 20% more and no more issues. More recently I decided to use a 40 amp 21khz PWM motor speed controller instead of the resistor pack for speed control, and ran a new 8awg power feed to dash so I can power it with Key not in the ignition. I've not yet tested the voltage reaching the motor now, but it has to be considerably higher, and the amount of air exiting the vents at highest speed, has improved yet again. I feel better the whole underwired original circuit is basically offline, but still functional, all I have to do is open the glove box and switch an anderson powerpole, but see no reason to do so. I actually wish I did not bother rebuilding the speed switch and part of the Hvac circuit, but just went for the PWM motor speed controller at that point. Infinite fan speeds engine on or off , ignition on or off, and much less wasted amperage bypassing the resistor pack speed control. The blower motor is not as efficient as my other methods( computer fans) for exchanging outside for inside air when parked, but it is a very nice option to have. The vents are vaccuum operated and will revert to windshield/defrost and floor, rather than the dash, about 5 minutes after engine shutdown. Where the air exits, as well as the position of the blend door, affects amp draw of the motor. Twice, I have had to open up the new blower motor as the brushes got stuck inside their holders, the second time I reduced their dimensions. Nice quality control there. Anyway, almost all the inline fuse holders I have purchased are problematic even on circuits well below the wire rating, and some Rv manufacturer using these inline from the converter is criminal batterycide incompetence. I now make my own inline ATC fuse terminals with 10AWG and 10-12 insulated flag terminals, or lesser flag terminals on lesser wire. I crimp then solder then slide the insulation back over the terminal, then Use Amazing goop around the flag terminals to form a one piece body. I trust these, and they are low profile and way better than any purchased inline fuse holder with the two extra connections required to butt splice them into the wiring. I have employed the other '10 awg' ATC fuse holders on other circuits that rarely see more than 10 amps and only briefly, but they will be phased out. Unfortunately they do not sell 8awg flag terminal quick connects in order to grasp the tangs of a Maxi fuse, and I have had to use the older inline 8awg fuse holders on my new 8awg dash feed, but intend to phase it out at some point. The Blower motor draws 50% more current when it gets 14.5v vs 12.6v and spins way faster too, and I doubt the original circuit ever fed it more than 10.5v even when the alternator had system voltage upto 14.9v.
landyacht318 03/17/20 01:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Manufacturers saving a few cents on wire

Any and everywhere they can pinch a penny, they do so. This is not just RV's. Maximum profit wins again Anywhere a worker can save time to complete a job with less effort, they do so. Quality workmanship takes time, and time is money, and maximum profit is God. Baby demands more shiny objects. The sheer distance from converter to Battery location on so many rigs, seems absolutely asinine to me
landyacht318 03/16/20 02:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Need batterys.

Best lead acid batteries available are not going to be able to recharge from 80% to 100% in less than 3.5 hours, whether 6s or 12's 12v flooded in my experience require way longer at higher voltages to attain maximum specific gravity and without achieving this weekly, they tank in performance quickly and then take even higher voltaegs applied longer to restore some fraction of that capacity. 6's will not have the same voltage retention under high loads, this is true. Rebranded Batteries from 6 years earlier, are not made by the same outfit today and if they are, they've figured out how much more profit they can squeeze but cutting quality as much as they can until the warranty claims eat into that max profit/maximum executive bonus. Internet rumor via automotive forums says Interstate moved a lot of their batteries to Exide as their supplier, and many are quickly failing.
landyacht318 03/15/20 10:05pm Tech Issues
RE: If I went to a Progressive Dynamics Converter.......

Yep, not going to turn battery switch off with engine running. Back when I first got the hall effect dash ammeter I had the sensor measuring total alternator output, not like today where it islocated to measure amps into or out of battery. One day I was heavily discharged and driving intentionally keeping rpms up, and the 140 amp circuit breaker tripped after ~5 minutes of 65 to 120 alternator amps. This rather extreme load dump did not fry the diodes in the alternator and it worked fine for 4 more years once I reset the CB. The regular parallel OEM charge circuit was disconnected for measuring the total alternator output so it was a true load dump. My meter is only rated for 100 amps, if I go over 100 amps it reads ---.-. It was reading that at 14.1v+ at 2200 engine rpm when it went to -20 amps when the CB tripped well below its rating of 140 amps. I bet the observation of slight discharging at float with heavy dc loads running, can be repeated without engine running. Put a 25 amp load on dc system with converter holding battery fully charged battery at 'perfect' prescribed float voltage, and the battery will still partially feed some of that 25 amp load and not remain at 100%SOC, but fall to some level slightly below that. As I said its not much, and not really consequential, at least to me. Just an observation. The way my rig is wired, my 1/2/both/OFF LOAD switch, is closer to my 1/2/both/OFF ignition switch, than it is to my battery and on equally thick cable, and no other wires, but the voltage sense line, goes to the battery terminals. No loads bypass the Ignition Switch or the LOAD switch to go directly to the battery. I doubt the voltage sense line's current is even measurable with any tools at my disposal, and the 20awg I am now using for it is way overkill. My dashboard calibrate-able 00.00x voltmeter now has 20awg ground and voltage sense wires going to the battery itself well the ground still goes to my shunt's buss bar, but until recently, took a ground much more closely to the voltmeter. I employ a 10 turn potentiometer to adjust the alternator's voltage regulator, at a steady rpm it is pretty easy to dial battery voltage in to the hundredth of a volt, most of the time, exceptions being when it is near full and it bounces around a few hundredths easier. Dash hall effect ammeter has drifted just recently, reading high, but this AGM continuing to taper to 0.0x amps at absorption or float when full is a constant. Same as on my previous NSB-27m until ~8 months before I removed it from the rig and relegated it to light cycling duty in the workshop. at end of Rv duty Amps would never taper to 0.4 and would bottom out over 4.0 amps then start rising again going as high as 13 amps if I was not there to lower voltage from 14.7v. I kept using it until it struggled to start my engine fully charged on a warm day with a warm engine. Voltage retention on regular overnight discharges were as good as ever and it still is impressive in workshop in this regard. If I were to judge this battery's health only by the voltage retainment on regular overnight discharges, I would be unaware of its decline. Which is surprising and unexpected, and impressive really. Since being relegated to workshop and light cycling and a 100 watt panel facing south being the main recharging source, the amps will taper to ~1.4 before bottoming out and then rising when held at absorption, and improvement from when it was taken from my rig, where it was discharged deeper regularly. Drifted far from the PD converter topic, apologies.
landyacht318 03/14/20 02:42pm Tech Issues
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