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RE: Battle Born Charging

Seems there are some parallels with obsessing abuot finding the perfect lead acid 3 or 4 stage automatic charger for battery X, and then becoming used to achieving full charge, with considerably less effort, when using an adjustable voltage power supply, and knowing in general how long it will take.. The adjustable voltage power supply allows a precision not possible with 99$ of things labelled 'smart', and the hassle of trying to get the 'smart' to do automatically , what the human mind and fingers can accomplish in a half second, makes one question why it had to be 'automatic' in the first place, especially when it misses 'ideal' 9 times out of 10. Mobilesport and others, thanks for sharing your experiences actually cycling and using this battery chemistry with various degrees of BMS deployed. Regarding my recent off topic alternator failure, it was nice to see the amperage load, the voltage held providing that load once it failed, from the driver's seat at 65mph, and deduce that I could easily keep driving to my destination, and worry about it later. If some battery/alternator light started flashing instead with no ammeter revealing rate of discharge, I would have been tempted to pull off and investigate then and there, but it was late at night on a weekend, and that's the last thing I would want to do.
landyacht318 02/23/20 10:05pm Tech Issues
RE: UPS Batteries

I have experience with an 18Ah AGM that weighs the same as the UPG UB12180, 11.4 lbs. It, by itself, when I first got it ( 5 months old at that point and 12.82v) and cycled deep once and charging it until amps stopped tapering at 14.7v, was able to start my cold 5.2 liter gas engine, by itself, just barely, in warm ambient temperatures. My meters registered a nearly an 1800 watt surge and voltage dropped as low as 7.9v I have not repeated this experiment, yet, 15 months later. The battery full charge resting voltage is 13.16 after 24 hours, 13.13 48 hours later and seems to lose about 0.01v each day there after I wanted 24v of portable battery, and recently got a UPG UB12220, a 22 amp hour AGM battery of the same exact dimensions as the 18AH battery, but weighs 14.1Lbs, 2.6lbs more. I've only got a few shallow cycles on it so far, but these two AGMs of dissimilar age, and weight, and capacity, did not discharge evenly in series, nor do they charge properly in series @29v, I stopped that quickly, and now charge them separately. But uncycled batteries always behave weirdly that initial charge discharge cycle and less so each additional one. The 22Ah agm loses surface charge voltage much faster but both settle to within 0.02v of each other a day later. Are these Asian UPS sized AGMs worth it, even in the larger common sizes, 35, 55 75 100AH? Impossible for me to say, I only have experience with an older 12Ah one, an 18AH(Ub12180) and now a 22Ah(Ub121220). The 12 is the only one that failed, many many years ago after many years of use, and highly suspicious initial recharging regimens. They meet my needs and expectations, and I Will recharge them at more than 2x the recommended maximum rate without fear, in mild ambient temperatures, but not leave them unattended with a high absorption voltage for hours on end either. The well depleted 18Ah battery accepts 38 amps peak from a 40 amp adjustable voltage charging source set at 14.7v and then levelled off at 32 amps, dropping to 25 amps some 5 minutes later. I didn't notice any case surface heating in that time, but lowered voltage/pressure/amperage to 10 amps and walked away. (5.4 amps maximum recommended) It is not hard to pry off the lid of These. When one does they see 6 rubber caps, kept in place by the lid and the glue lines are designed to obviously keep the same general pressure across all 6 cell tops. Remove a rubber cap under this lid, and one can try to see into the cell via a 5 to 7mm aperture. The venting pressure is therefore Imprecise at best, and could be changed with the pressure on the top of the battery, holding the lid over the cell tops tightly. I had a few rubber caps pop off and go a fair distance when I pried on the lid. I might add drops of distilled to each cell on the older one, its voltage retention after charging and surface charge retention 2 to 6 hours off the charger seem abnormally high, just like a flooded marine battery low on water. The 'new' 22 Ah AGM was made the 19th week of 2019, when I got it, two weeks ago, arrived @ [email protected] I think that is a huge issue with these Asian UPG/UB batteries and their clones and relabels, they sit on a shelf for who knows how long before placing 'click order' and they certainly came over on the slow boat, and were they fully charged when they left?. They do not have the great low self discharge of high$$ AGMs, and their 'recombinant' technology is a rubber cap held in place by the lid which can easily be pried off. I think they have issues overheating once they've aged and require more and more amperage to be held at float, and perhaps have been floated too high for too long, at the occasionally too high an ambient temperature, while within their ergonomic enclosure. I accept the potential age issues with these, and insure I hold absorption voltage as long as is required for amps to either stop tapering, or taper to 0.5% At 14.7v, indicating full charge. After this i discharge to 50% or more notine rate and voltage retained, then see how much it wants to feed upon at 14.7, when allowed 40 amps. That MAX charge rate recommendation is a CYA statement, in my opinion. use common sense, and keep em from getting too hot. My new 22 Ah AGM says 'NO amperage limit', with a 13.6 to 13.8v charging source in 'standby duty' but does say a 6.6 amp maximum at 14.6 to 14.8v in 'cyclic' duty. Whereas they use to say only half the rateat 13.6vcompared to 14.7v. Obviously higher pressure , more amps flow, but hook a huge charging source set at 13.6v to 13.8v to a well depleted agm, and the first few minutes will accept huge amperages well over that 'recommended' maximum amperage rate, before the delta narrows and less amps flow. Floating at proper temp compensated voltage([email protected]) for an additional 12 hours might have amps taper to near zero and quickly decline to near there when voltage is boosted back upto 14.7v, but sometimes amps at 14.7v never tapered to 0.5% of capacity with these but seems to get better with some cycles accumulated. Really, these cheap Asian AGMs might be great, or lackluster, depending on your requirements and expectations and ability to attempt to recharge completely, on occassion. In the bigger sizes, the Deka Intimidator AGM, perhaps relabelled by sams or costco or autoparts stores, can be had for similar prices, and at least is USA made. Take your digital voltmeter and buy fresh, but 'click order' of these UPG/ UB asian AGMS and you have no choice with the age of battery which arrives. Good luck
landyacht318 02/23/20 09:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Battle Born Charging

I ire was not directed at you Bfl. Apologies. Seeking info about a subject or posting a good source about it, is not the same as lecturing someone on it, while having no personal experience with it, a methodology rife on many forums, which grinds my gears. I bought another Northstar AGM, but a group 31, when my group 27 Northstar lost the CCA ability to start my engine last December with about 1300 deep cycles on it. It is now my workshop battery and cycling lightly nightly powering lights and fans and 12v experiments. The 27 had a higher full charge resting voltage and retained higher voltage under the same overnight loads than the 31, upto about 45 amp hours from full. Not sure I'll be as impressed long term with the 31 as I was with the 27 at least Voltage retention wise for the first ~45AH removed I had an alternator failure at night ~120 miles from my destination a month and a half ago. It was nice to know I had enough battery to make it without stopping. It was still retaining 12.24v when I arrived, under a 20 amp load for those 120 miles. Lifepo4 would certainly have retained more, unless I started at a lower state of charge and the Battery protector kicked in and left me stranded.
landyacht318 02/18/20 10:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Battle Born Charging

Very glad the knowledge base and experience with Lithium batteries is expanding. I chose to sit on the fence 6+ years ago, and while sitting there I figured out how to keep lead acid batteries happy and reach their potential. If my current AGM delivers what I need for a long as my last one did, in 5.75 more years perhaps I will consider Lifepo4, but there might be something better by then. Glad many of you have made it work for you. Nice that BattleBorn sells complete units mostly compatible with existing systems designed for lead, with a few minor modifications. Keep on sharing your experience with implementing and using Lifepo4 through their lifespans, and knowledge gained from it, if you have any. If you don't have experience, perhaps just button your trap as your opinion is basically inherently worthless. Find some other way to sooth your inner insecurity. Go yell at a cloud. width=600
landyacht318 02/18/20 09:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Charge Up Those "New" Batteries

I think its unwise to believe the batteries even leave the factory fully charged. Full charge takes time, and time is money, and there is no honor in achieving maximum profit, and max profit is paramount in the world today.. The last pair of 6v costco interstates I installed new, the Specific gravity wold not rise where it should be until I cycled them to about 75% SOC, and then 14.7'd them for hours, then eq'd them. They are still performing well for their owner a few years later. I EQ them once a year, and his Iota 45 amp converter does the rest. I think EQ'ing new but self discharged unbroken in batteries, could be unnecessarily hard on the plates I've read on Automotive forums, that interstate has moved many of their automotive starting batteries from JCI/Clarios, to Exide, as their manufacturer, and quality has tanked further. No idea about their Marine batts, GC-2's, or GC-12's.
landyacht318 02/03/20 09:55am Tech Issues
RE: Dual batteries, DC to DC chargers, isolators, AGM... HELP!

Looks like some companies are addressing the weird fuel saving voltage regulation with aftermarket products for some brands of vehicle:
landyacht318 01/31/20 11:19am Tech Issues
RE: Dual batteries, DC to DC chargers, isolators, AGM... HELP!

A deeply discharged Odyssey AGM, ideally, wants 40 amps applied per 100Ah of capacity until 14.7v is reached, then hold 14.7v for 4 more hours then float at 13.6 to 13.8v. Do you have a plug in charging source capable of this? Few do, as few exist. 80% charged to 100% charged is not going to happen in less than 3.5 hours even if you achieve 14.7v at battery terminals and drive 3.5+ hours. Expecting your vehicle's charging system to do an Ideal job , even if you drive for 3.5 hours, is unwise. The drop to 12.7v for fuel savings only makes it worse, and the system, with two Odyssey batteries, which retain surface charge voltage higher and longer than a regular starting battery, will likely having them not only powering the vehicles electrical loads while underway, but also feeding into engine starting battery when it decides 12.7v is fine and dandy. Seeing as how you are not even going to come close to being able to achieve ideal recharging via your vehicles charging system, I recommend accepting whatever your vehicle's voltage regulator allows, and then having a plug in charging source that can meet the 40 amps upto 14.7v, hold for 4 hours, per 100Ah of capacity requirement/recommendation. It would be best to hook up this charger in their most depleted state. You can of course get away with much less, and it will be philosophically 'just fine' for a period of time, but your 300$+ Odyssey AGMS will fail to live up to their potential. I have cycled a Northstar AGM group27 to death at 6 years and 1200+ deep cycles and thousands of shallow cycles. Northstar has the same pure lead thin plate construction, and it indeed LOVES the high amp recharge to full. Its voltage retention and engine cranking gusto is extremely obviously better after it gets a huge charge rate from a well depleted state and this is more and more apparent the more often it gets less than a huge charging rate and charged to less than full cycle after cycle. I have fooled my 1989 engine computer with a 10ohm 50 watt resistor into thinking it is still attached to the externally regulated alternator, and no check engine light. I use a modified adjustable external voltage regulator whose voltage adjustment knob is on my Dashboard. I have one of the very few vehicles that can indeed fully charge a depleted battery to full in the minimum time safely possible but the 3.5 hours minimum, from 80% to 100% still applies. Beware of idling to recharge. Underhood airflow and higher alternator fan rpm plays a huge part in alternator cooling, and Depleted Odysey AGMS can easily suck up 50+ amps each and fry your alternator, if it was told to deliver 14.2+v to the batteries. The DC to Dc converter, unless it has an alternator temp sensor, can overheat the alternator even when the vehicle decides 12.7v is fine and dandy. Any charging is of course better than no recharging of a depleted battery, but treating a pair of Odyssey AGMS correctly, to get them to live upto their potential, requires those high amp recharge parameters be met every few deep cycles .
landyacht318 01/30/20 11:04am Tech Issues
RE: Not enough space for lugs on post of battery isolator

Ace hardware carries 'jam nuts' which are nuts of half thickness. I just used some on an alternator + output stud to free up more room for stacked terminals and homemade threaded copper nuts to avoid the steel nut from having to carry most of the current to ring terminal. Make sure terminals can rest against each other flat before using the nut to compress them.
landyacht318 01/30/20 10:39am Tech Issues
RE: Mini trim pot to big potentiometer

8k ohm is a strange value. I've never been able to measure resistance of a pot with it still soldered in place. I've only run one 3 wire pot in the dozens of voltage buckers that i have run remote pots on, and it turns out 2 wires would have been enough as two legs always seem to have continuity between them when I test before removal. Is your solder perhaps bridging the contacts? I've done that before for zero voltage control effect nut was able to remove the bridge to return full function, but none were on dual sided circuit boards.
landyacht318 01/22/20 11:32am Tech Issues
RE: Amorphous solar panels

I put a Unisolar PVL-68 watt panel on my roof in 2012. Back then it exceeded its output for a month or 3. Now it does not, but it has not degraded a huge amount either. But I did not collect hard data then to compare to what I could collect now. In general the maximum output Mid June has gone down by 0.6 amps or so compared to when it was new. I have it in parallel with a kyocera 130 watt framed panel in use for 13 years now, so the total maximum harvest must include the degradation of the Kyocera too, since 2012. The low light abilities of amorphorus is a bonus as an equal 68 watt rating of mono/poly crystalline would prehaps push back the time of day that it reaches absorption voltage daily, some unknown degree. If you got the space for enough amorphous wattage, go for it. It will likely harvest more in winter and in cloudy weather.
landyacht318 01/21/20 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Why are my batteries water overflowing during charging?

Constant what? Constant current or constant voltage? For How long do you employ this 'constant' charger when you employ it? Number of total cycles accumulated in those 12 years, in your estimation? Average State of discharge, when you do cycle them? I got an estimated 1200+ deep cycles over a 6 year timespan with my most recent AGM, and easily a 100 of those were to 30% or below state of charge, but the average depth of discharge was in likely the 60 to 65% state of charge range. Prompt high amp recharges to full from their most depleted state, are what i credit to that impressive, in my opinion, lifespan. If you've found a great formula/charging products for exceptional lifespan of Budget GC-2's, then please share how you did so.
landyacht318 01/20/20 11:07am Tech Issues
RE: Ford Starting /House Charging Question UPDATE Test

The Solenoid's trigger circuit controls whether the house batteries assist engine starting, or not. Some vehicles deactivate the HVAC blower during engine starting or the headlights,or power windows, ect, but have it/them On, with Key to on, not start, so turning the key to on.... the solenoid closes, then opens when the starter is cranking, then closes right after the engine starts. I'd prefer this, opposed to allowing house batteries to assist engine battery through solenoid during engine starting, but it cycles the magnet and slams and separates contacts twice as much within the solenoid, wearing it out faster. I also would not want solenoid passing starter current from house to starter battery, as that will also wear out solenoid contacts faster, and when these fail often the contacts fuse together leading to full time in parallel situation, which then cycles the starting battery with house loads. The Ideal, in my opinion, Solenoid trigger circuit would close the solenoid contacts only after the engine starts. I often recommend people put an illuminated switch inline on the ignition activated trigger circuit, thus have the option of letting belts and engine warm up before tasking the alternator and belts with the 50+ amp loads depleted batteries can ask for. Some just use the illuminated switch and have the switch always powered live, connected to house or engine battery, that way if engine battery is dead they can flip the switch and house batteries assist, or if depleted batteries cause their belts to squeal on a cold damp morning, they can turn it off and allow things to warm before trying to feed depleted house bank. The absolutely full starter battery right after starting on my rig, will briefly draw 90 amps and this quickly tapers back down to 0.5 or less in 45 seconds or so, and if I had a large depleted house battery bank they would be sucking huge amounts of amperage from the alternator at that point too. I believe a delay in activating the house battery charging solenoid is wise. Less stress on a cold engine whose cold oil is too thick to circulate properly and a damp cold belt might more easily slip and glaze and perhaps cause issues down the road. Each 25 amps the alternator has to make requires one Engine HP, with all the losses through belts/pulleys/diodes, so I'd prefer the engine idle for a bit before asking it to feed house depleted batteries. I've found a badly oxidized 12v quick terminal under my dash that is not live with KEY to ON or Start, but becomes live only after engine actually starts. After deoxidizing it, I use it for powering my aftermarket voltage regulator, but would use this circuit to trigger a solenoid, if I used a Solenoid and I'd have an illuminated switch on it to neuter it too.
landyacht318 01/19/20 10:36am Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

Definitely follow the agm manufacturer's float voltage recommendation. Do not think 12.8v is good enough. most spec 13.4 to 13.8v @77f. If I hold either of my AGMs at 13.4, vs 13.6v while loads are running, the battery will discharge slightly. I can tell this as when i spin my voltage dial upto 14.7v it takes more than the 0.5% of c/20 amperage for a while, before amps again taper to that prescribed 'full' level. Some of these Asian agms might not taper to that level 0.5% level at Vabs. So consider these full when amps stop tapering, and overfull when amps start rising at a constant absorption voltage. I've noticed mine do both, and depth of the discharge seems to play a part. Temperature of course plays a part in the right float voltage as you know. The current limiting potentiometer of boost or buck/boost converters can also limit amperage, if one wants to limit amperage to what the Chinese AGM battery claims to be them allowable. My 18Ah agm says no more than 5.4 amps. I've exceeded this by a factor of 5, but would not do this regularly, or in hot ambient temperatures, or when the battery is nearing end of life. The minimum current seems to be 0.5 amps on the voltage converters I've tested with the current limiting pot turned all the way down. The crush stranded wire under screw terminals can be problematic and lack of an enclosure might be an issue. Drok sells some units with acrylic enclosures as well as voltmeters with a toggle buttons for toggling display from input to output voltage. Not sure of if they have buck boost or just buck or boost. I tend to solder instead of using the screw terminals, and all things which can be shorted or vibrate and break, like the wirewound toroid, get covered with Amazing goop after some rubbing alcohol degreases the flux and fingerprints. Peeling off the cure 'amazing goop' is pretty easy, if required. It is Di-electric when cured. No issues with the evaporating solvents inside of AG damaging the circuit board. It does take days for the tolulene stink to go away completely, depending on the strength of your sniffer.
landyacht318 01/17/20 02:54pm Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

I'd experiment myself with the power supply feeding a solar charge controller, but the only charge controller I have I'd be willing to sacrifice is a cheap thing which basically seeks absorption voltage and never will drop to float. I just use it as a portable with 100 watts of panel and allow it to seek 14.8v and hold it as long as the sun shines. My 3$ 150 watt dc to dc boost converter would be more desirable than my Meanwell rsp-500-15 to feed the controller for the experiment. I love the Meanwell far too much only to find that the PWM of the solar charge controller is screwing with its components. I'm pretty much over 'automatic' voltage stages anyway. 40 amps available to reach and hold 14.7v till 100% SOC is reached, then lower to 13.6v forever after, is simple and makes for a happy AGM.
landyacht318 01/17/20 12:10pm Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

Tom, I have a voltage buck converter of very similar appearance to the one Mr Wizard linked, but mine is rated for 10 amps, not 20 as in the link. Your 2.0 volt differential claim, is simply absurd, and shows you have Zero experience with such a product. Perhaps long ago with older less efficient transistors a 2 volt drop could be expected, but certainly nothing like offered in Mr wizard's link. My unit's output almost matched input voltage, to my great surprise, under a 0.65 amp load, when turned all the way up. I was trying to power a 24v fan and it would not go above input voltage but came very close. The fan draws draws about 0.65a at 12.8v iirc. This unit I have, what I'd actually ordered from E bay was a 10 amp buck/boost module, and when I hooked it up I found they sent me a buck only converter, as output voltage would rise within a few hundredths of input voltage and would not go above, I was extremely surprised output voltage almost matched input, and changed swapped and used different voltmeters all with the same result. The Ebay seller quickly refunded me, and I got to keep it. I then ordered the buck/boost version from a different E bay seller, the difference in external appearance is the secondary trimpot, for current control, and 2 more transistors on the heatsinks, and one less capacitor. Its easy to see how the first seller sent out the wrong part as they look nearly identical at a casual glance. The buck/boost version works great on a 24v Papst fan through its full speed range of 7.33 volts, where one can follow one fan blade spinning with their eye, upto 30 volts, where it is quite powerful and quiet for the amount of air it moves. I use the current control pot to limit current to ~2.42 amps, so then voltage cannot exceed 29.5 volts. If I turn the current trimpot up higher, voltage can climb as high as 36 volts, so I limit max allowed voltage by the current trimpot. The voltage trimpots, I desolder and attach wires to the trimpots receptacles to a remote fingertwist potentiometer for simple speed control. This particular fan amp draw starts increasing nearly exponentially over 30 volts while the fan does not spin all that much faster so I actually limit it to 29.5 volts via the current trimpot. I've ordered a second buck boost converter of the same design, but yet to employ it, but do have it with me while travelling on the other side of the country. I also have the 10 amp bucker and others too. I employ many XL4015 based voltage buckers rated a 5 amps. These drop 0.29v across them under a 2.5 amp load, NOWHERE near your claimed 2.0 volts. I use them extensively in my rig to speed control powerful 12v computer fans and to also Dim LEDs. If they dropped 2.0v I would not employ ANY!!! I previously used PWM motor speed controllers or LED dimmers, but unless 20KHz or higher, these would make the some LEDs Whine and maybe flicker when dimmed, and fans would also Whine at reduced speeds. I have almost entirely deleted them from my rig in favor of the XL4015 based buckers. Have 5 of them going right now and they have been going for weeks or months on end. These voltage buckers allow for much lower fan speeds, and dimmer LEDs, than PWM dimmers/motor speed controllers and there is NO whining from the LEDs or fans. The PWM controllers would shut fan or LEDs off at much higher speeds or brightness. Previous to the XL4015 5 amp buckers, I employed LM2596 based voltage buckers rated at 3 amps, these drop 0.71v across them.... 12.0v in 11.29v out maximum. I employ just a few of these, for that 0.71v loss is inconsequential to the specific application. The XL4015s are so obviously superior I've replaced a few functioning lm2596's for the XL4015s for the higher voltage which can then reach fan or LED and greater efficiency and higher amperage rating. I just got some new XL4015 based buckers of a slightly different circuit board layout, and these drop only 0.19v !!! Was suprised and pleased. 12.22v in 12.03v out with the 50k ohm voltage trimpot turned all the way up when powering a 1.5 amp fan. These XL4015 based voltage buckers also have versions with current control trimpots in addition to the voltage trimpot. I've not had good luck with these, sometimes just stupidity and shorting them out while testing a powerful fan that would claw itself across the workbench, and others just failed for no apparent reason. Using the voltage trimpot, worked better to control speed or brightness on leds and fans than did the current trimpot, and seemed to use less current when dimmed/slowed, so I only get xl4015 based buckers that have voltage trimpots only, like these: Here is The buck/boost converter I employ on my 24v fan as a speed controller: The output voltage in my experience is indeed quite stable, until one's input voltage falls below 9. There are also many 3 to 5 amp rated boost/buck converters available, slightly physically smaller than the link above. As far as i can tell they are all junk, go right for the 10 amp model even if you think 5 amps is more than enough. I've only one still functioning and perhaps a half dozen more which never worked or did not work for long powering a 2.5 amp potential load. A 50mm computer fan would bridge the heatsinks perfectly of thebaove link, if one is going to run it near its rating for extended periods of time. I rarely exceed 1/4 of its rating and measured nothing on circuitboard over 92f ever in 80f ambients at 25% of its rating for 30 minutes. Isn't actual data and experience great? Earlier in the thread there was a 150 watt boost module linked. I have it, and have used it to recharge 19v and 24v powertool battery packs. both Lithium and NIcads it has exceeded that 150 watt rating by 25% for 15 minutes when one Nicad battery when into thermal runaway. got to to monitor those closely. I have it enclosed with a fan on it and anderson powerpoles leading in and out. If I were wanting to do what Don wants, and which is very similar to what I am indeed doing with my 18Ah AGM, I'd use the Ideal diode I linked a few posts back, perhaps with an inline switch for when he knows the genny battery is chock full, and does not need to see any charging voltages via his solar or alternator. I just unplug my 45 amp anderson powerpoles when my 18ah AGm is known to be chock full , and then reconnect them later if it sits for several days, or after I use any portion of its capacity as a portable 12v source. These Chinese AGMS self discharge much faster than does Lifeline or Northstar full size AGMS, in my experience.
landyacht318 01/17/20 10:54am Tech Issues
RE: 12 v to 12 v trickle charger

I have a 18Ah AGM battery I use as a portable 12vDC source, or as a jumpstarter for other's vehicles or an emergency additional capacity to parallel to my regular battery Obviously, I like to keep it topped off and not worry about doing it regularly when not in use. I make extensive use of anderson powerpoles and put one of these Ideal Diodes inside an old smoked wattmeter casing with powerpoles on eachend. I hook up the Diode in series to my 18Ah AGm and anytime my charging system's have system voltage up above that of the 18AH AGM, the latter gets fed voltage just 0.04v less than than upside the diode, and when system voltage falls below that of the 18AH agm it cannot backfeed. So anytime your regular charging system has voltage up above the voltage of the generator battery, it will charge the generator battery. The 'Ideal Diode' only drops 0.04v across it, but I am sure some are frothingly ready to tell me/you/ the world, that they drop 0.7v or 0.4v. These are newish products. I have passed 40+ amps through mine and actually put one permanently on the output of my Meanwell rsp-500-15 40 amp charger/power supply so that I can unplug from the grid and not have the additional fans and powermeter be powered up by the battery, without having to disconnect the anderson powerpoles. I've a third one awaiting a duty. I also make extensive use of voltage buckers and boosters, and sometimes combo buck/boosters, but I would not use them for your intended application, if I were trying to accomplish what you are. The 0.04v loss across the Ideal diode, makes achieving proper charging voltages a non issue. Your wiring to the diode from your regular 12v system is not even all that important, if all you want is a 'trickle'. But your solar, holding system voltage up above 14v for hours could overcharge the generator's battery with the Ideal Diode. The Ideal Diode goes on the positive line but needs a negative wire soldered to it as well, to function properly, otherwise it drops 0.7v and does not act like a check valve. Follow the directions. Has anyone actually fed a 3 stage solar charge controller with an ~ 20v DC power supply instead of a solar panel? I know its been discussed often, but I've never read of anybody doing it and posting back how great it works.
landyacht318 01/15/20 06:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Why are my batteries water overflowing during charging?

I have a schumacher sc2500A. It often, without any discernable reason, will take the battery to and above 16.4 volts on the 12 or 25 amp setting, and hold it there for more than an hour with the battery burgling burping and smelling like burning rotten eggs. This is extremely abusive to lead acid batteries, and if they are overfilled when undercharged then the charger takes them to 16.4v, they will bubble up a flood. Most chargers will cause spillover when the battery is overfilled, but a charger taking them well above 14.7v will make the issue much much worse. Check the voltage when charging, if you are finding it to climb well over 15 volts via a multimeter on battery terminals, as I suspect you will, then consider returning the charger, if you still can. Also the % state of charge display on these garage chargers is so laughable as to be completely ignorable, and the voltage on mine was also considerably different than actual battery voltage. Hers a schumacher video overcharging at 15.9v. These have no equalization feature. Not sure how Schumacher has been able to get away with products which can so seriously overcharge, when all other makers of consumer grade garage chargers err on the side of well undercharging and doing smoke and mirror marketing saying how great they are.
landyacht318 01/15/20 04:37pm Tech Issues
RE: 12v batteries reading 14.18v

A 12v battery reading 14.18v open circuit, rested, 18 hours removed from the charging source @ 50 degrees F, is not right. I've no experience with Gel batteries but I expect I would have read something about their incredible surface charge retention, if it is actually true, in the 2 decades I've been reading about lead acid batteries and experimenting and collecting data on their performance. What one mostly reads on gel batteries is their incredible cycle life when charged properly, and their premature death when not charged within their well published parameters. Don't praise your charger yet, see how the batteries perform the next time. As I said every time I noticed well above normal surface charge retention with my flooded battery, some of the cell's plates were exposed, and once refilled properly That voltage retention ability was erased along with some portion of the battery capacity, never to return. I imagine voids in gelled electrolyte could do something similar as low electrolyte levels on a flooded marine battery. Get a clamp on ammeter. Guessing sucks and actual numbers/data rule.
landyacht318 12/29/19 05:34pm Tech Issues
RE: 12v batteries reading 14.18v

So your two 12v batteries in series, are reading 14.18v together? Meaning each 12v battery alone reading 7.09v? If so, that's not a good sign. Are they gelled electrolyte, or AGM. Sooooo many people call any sealed battery a gell cell that the term has now become entirely meaningless without actual clarification that one knows the difference. If they are actual gelled electrolyte batteries, I have no experience with them, If each is measuring 14.18v, and together in series they are measuring 28.36v, 18 hours off the charger, perhaps your e bay charger took them way over the 28 to 29 volts you previously measured, overcharging them, perhaps causing voids in the gelled electrolyte, the bane of actual gelled electrolyte batteries. Would be nice to see how much amperage your overheating 24v motor is drawing, and know how much voltage it is getting. Without Data or proper details you will not get anything but random well meaning guesses.
landyacht318 12/28/19 10:12pm Tech Issues
RE: 12v batteries reading 14.18v

Every time my workshop relegated aged flooded marine battery would read and maintain a high surface charge of 13v or higher many many hours off the charging source, I knew it was low on water. Seems some responders think you batteries are still on the charging source, reading that voltage, so perhaps some clarification is needed, for them. I've never seen surface charge retainment over 14v for more than a minute or 2, on any 12v battery. So how long off the charger are yours maintaining 14.18v, and what is their temperature?
landyacht318 12/28/19 07:06pm Tech Issues
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