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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Furnace running very hot...
You can melt solder with that exhaust temperature
The inner core of the propane candle flame is
light blue, with a temerature of around 1500 C which is 2732 F.
You can almost melt steel with that. What is your point?
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larry cad
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12/08/19 06:19am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Furnace running very hot...
If there is a crack in the heat exchanger as has been suggested, you can get a battery operated CO (carbon monoxide) detector which will beep if you have CO leaking from the combustion chamber into the RV. It is unlikely a crack is your problem.
It is also highly unlikely that your combustion air passage is clogged with either cat hair or any other obstruction. If that passage is clogged or even partly obstructed, the furnace has a "sail switch" that monitors airflow and prevents the burner from igniting if the air flow is obstructed. That is not your problem.
I am still wondering how hot is "too hot". That statement is too vague. It would be nice to have some real numbers that you could verify with the factory.
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larry cad
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12/07/19 03:58am |
Tech Issues
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RE: 15 Amp Service
15 amp is pretty simple as long as the weather is not very hot or very cold. Just pay attention and you'll be fine. If you have an EMS just manually set it down to 15 amp service and let it regulate the load if not then that task will fall on you. If you trip the breaker just reset it and go on.
Someone suggested using a plastic bag in the toilet. For the life of me I can't figure out how that conserves electricity. :?
:h
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larry cad
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12/06/19 03:59am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Furnace running very hot...
You would have to define what you mean by "too hot". Measure a specific temperature, and either check the owner manual or contact dometic. If it truly is "too hot", they will want to know and will most likely correct the problem before they end up in a nasty lawsuit.
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larry cad
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12/05/19 07:17am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Blue Ox Tow Bar
Sorry to hear about your problems. I have personally installed 4 Blue Ox base plates on different vehicles and never had a single problem, either with supplied installation components, or factory support, which I consider excellent. After 15 years of towing and over 150,000 miles, my Blue Ox tow bar is still sound and working fine. BUT, if it ever needs repair, I send it back to Blue Ox and they rebuild it for about $25. I did stop at the Blue Ox factory several years back to have mine rebuilt, and stayed for FREE at their very nice campground, right at the factory. I have nothing but good things to say about extensive Blue Ox experience.
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larry cad
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12/04/19 07:06pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 15 Amp Service
That will keep your batteries charged and that's about it. You can run your furnace, but no electric heaters. Also don't heat water with electric. You will find out real quick if you overload the circuit and the house breaker trips.
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larry cad
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12/02/19 05:29pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Furnace blower stops briefly then comes back on.
I am more inclined to think the flame goes on and off, rather than the blower. If the blower isn't running, the flame cannot come on due to the sail switch not made. Might want to listen closer to the various noises.
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larry cad
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12/02/19 11:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: "Balancing" motorhome heating systems.
I like having spare time to work on my motorhome because it is a "target rich environment" for making design changes to improve the coach, and it is satisfying to see how simple it is to make it better than the high paid designers at the factory. Good job with the improvement and sounds like it will work just fine.
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larry cad
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12/02/19 06:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Another ‘dadgum’ post re: tire PSI…please bear with me…
The best thing I did to my coach to improve the wandering was the REMOVE the Steersafe that came with the coach. Before: wandered all over the road. After: steered straight down the road. I would never recommend them. Wore me out. I have a set in my garage if anyone wants it free!
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larry cad
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11/30/19 12:38am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach
Thanks for the many suggestions.
I should have been more specific, we are staying with family here in Texas. I am plugged in to a 30 amp plug just to keep things charged up, that’s why I was trying to run the appliances on propane so as not to take too much electricity and that is how I came to find no 120 V power on passenger side of coach, save for 1 outlet in the bedroom. I am going to try and locate transfer switch in the morning before we leave and check voltages. Will let y’all know what I find, but the kids have to be back to school Tuesday so we gotta get going.
Merrill
If you are using a 30 amp adapter in a 50 amp coach, it is very possible the adapter is defective. Get a new 30-50 amp adapter and it likely will fix the power problem.
If your batteries are low, someone suggested your propane shut off solenoid may be off, not letting propane to flow.
Finally, I had to repair a Magnum inverter that had a bad circuit breaker, leaving it with only one output circuit and the other one dead. May be a bad inverter circuit breaker.
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larry cad
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11/30/19 12:26am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: allisson transmisson
I've never heard of this problem but I'm gonna venture a guess that it will turn out to be the keypad. Just a guess.
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larry cad
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11/29/19 03:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 2nd to Wrangler what are the best toad options?
First: Grand Cherokee
Second: Cherokee
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larry cad
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11/21/19 03:41am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Is this normal for a 30 amp breaker
ve7prt that was a very good layman’s description of how the math works with electric motors. Thank you.
No problem! I hope it explained to everyone just how this all works.
Cheers!
Mike
Actually, the back EMF generated when the motor is up to speed is always slightly LESS than the applied EMF. If it was the same, there would be no current flow. Actually the back EMF is constantly fluctuating, attempting to keep motor RPM constant. This variation in motors is known as “slip” and slip is what produces torque.
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larry cad
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11/12/19 02:37am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: fridge removal and replacement
You can make the frig smaller by removing the door, and sometimes by removing the cooling unit. If that doesn't work, you may have to remove a window. Check to see what your best option is by measuring doors and windows.
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larry cad
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11/01/19 03:52am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Propane tank integrity test
"tanks" are tanks. "Cylinders" are cylinders and cylinders require recertification. Tanks DO NOT!
Tanks are permanently mounted. Cylinders are portable and easily removed.
If they don't believe you, they don't know their job.
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larry cad
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10/28/19 07:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: No heat
Don't like to not be used...
Yes! Thank you. :)
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larry cad
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10/23/19 04:46am |
Tech Issues
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RE: No heat
Typically RV furnaces don't like to not be used for a long time. Too many things can happen.
1. The green ground wire that is screwed to the furnace metal gets loose or corroded. Loosen and tighten it.
2. Mud daubers build nests inside the furnace. This either clogs the blower air path, or worse builds up on the sail switch. Maybe blow some compressed air through the outlet to clear it out and hope that helps.
3. There is a control circuit board with a connector on it. Sometimes the connections on that board get corroded. Pull the connector off and on several times and see if that solves the problem.
4. Probably not the case, but also possible the gas valve is stuck.
5. The heat sensor rod may not be clean and is not sending an igniter signal to the gas valve.
I'm sure others will have additional ideas.
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larry cad
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10/19/19 05:16am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Class A electrical system setup - no dealer guidance
When you are plugged in to shore power most rigs have a "converter" wired into the system that keeps your batteries charged. When you are using "inverter" for 110v power, you must switch off the "converter" breaker on 110v breaker panel, otherwise you have the "inverter" using up battery power running the "converter" which is a battery charger. Big time loosing proposition. Will run your batteries down very rapidly. Sounds like this is what is happening to you in addition to other things mentioned....
With the magnum inverter/charger in his diesel motorhome, all of that is done automatically and there is nothing to worry about. The "charger" is integral to the magnum and operates to charge the batteries only when plugged into shore power.
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larry cad
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10/15/19 12:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: TOGO comments?
I have been using a Verizon MIFI for a couple of years now and it seems to work decent. What is there about this TOGO that makes it better? I am curious. The MIFI has unlimited data for $20 a month with multi users.
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larry cad
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10/14/19 08:49am |
Technology Corner
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RE: Class A electrical system setup - no dealer guidance
While you have not specifically stated such, it sounds like you might have a residential frig rather than an RV type frig. If that is the case, then yes, you need the inverter on to keep the frig cold.
It also might help if you tell us more about the system such as type of inverter and inverter remote control.
Lot's of good advice here.
I have an RV style fridge - shore powered or propane - a Magnum Standard Remote Control, and a Magnum ME Series Modified Sine Wave Inverter
The magnum can be conveniently wired to your Onan Quiet Diesel Generator to operate in "auto gen start" mode which will start your genny automatically if your batteries get low. You have the option of setting the "low" voltage where it starts. This is all done on the magnum operator panel, the one with the rotating know.
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larry cad
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10/13/19 03:33pm |
Tech Issues
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