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RE: Buying F350 with an eye towards the future
An F-350 sits high in the rear and is designed to come down under load. When our 6500 trailer was attached to our F-350 it dropped only a little, barely touching the aux springs. It still was slightly high in the rear. And, as said before, I still used WD to return weight to the front axle for better steering. Air bags only increase the rear spring capacity. While that makes the truck look level, it does nothing to return weight to the front. The big truck manufacturers all have a trailer weight rating when not using WD and a 7000 lb. trailer is likely under that rating. But, steering and safety will be increased by using WD.
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lenr
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02/16/20 08:08am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Buying F350 with an eye towards the future
Changing the position of the ball mount on the shank is the only way to level the trailer even if you have to buy a longer shank to drop more (which is what I had to do). Then after you change the mount height you almost always have to readjust the WD. With systems that use chains one must be sure to have enough length for turns (Reese recommends at least 5 links under tension).
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lenr
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02/16/20 07:50am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Buying F350 with an eye towards the future
Another opinion--others will vary
With an F350, the back end will not drop much, but you will get the same leverage effect reducing the weight on the front end. Similar wheel base of an F350 or F150 will have a similar leverage effect. For best possible steering, set WD to return weight to the front end similar to what it is when the truck is unloaded regardless of if it is a 150 or 350. I set up WD on any trailer over 3,000 lb. on my F-350. Ever see a small car or small SUV pulling an over-loaded U-Haul trailer with the back end way down and the front end up in the air. Bet they were weaving all over the place for lack of steering weight.
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lenr
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02/15/20 08:07pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Chucking - trouble shooting
Our chucking was 50% solved with a MORryde pin box, first. Then 98% eliminated by installing MORryde SRE4000 rubberized equalizer. The 4000 does this by reducing the jarring to the trailer which is another benefit of it. Watch the video on the MORryde web site. Both are easy to install and reasonably priced online.
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lenr
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02/01/20 10:06pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: disk brake questions
Assume that you're asking because you are disappointed in the OEM brakes. I've had good luck improving the braking performance of the lighter axles by significantly increasing the brake wire size to get higher voltage to the magnets, and by adjusting the brake pads after break-in. I put disk brakes on our 6,000 lb. axles and they are very strong. My biggest disappointment is the slight time delay while the actuator builds pressure.
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lenr
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01/24/20 08:11pm |
Towing
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RE: Plug in truck bed or use plug in bumper for 5th wheel
My Ford has the optional "in bed" plug, and I use it all the time. On a prior trailer I had inadequate braking from the trailer, and in the process of checking things out, I found that the bed plug had about 1 volt less on the brake line (at full brake) than the bumper plug. The wiring harness went to the bumper first since that is standard, and then on to the bed. So, I assume that the longer wire and one more crimp connection increased the voltage drop.
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lenr
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01/12/20 08:35am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 5th Wheel Alignment & Lippert Correct Track
I installed the Correct Track only to raise the trailer 2" closer to level. After a panic hard stop from about 50 mph, I found a rear spring hanger ripped forward at a 45 degree angle with just the front weld keeping it in place. Scary to think what would have happened if it came off completely. We came home and had the Correct Tracks removed, riser tubes welded in, new spring hangers, and MORryde SRE4000 installed. I do not recommend Correct Track because of the additional leveraged stress that it puts on the spring hanger.
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lenr
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01/07/20 03:02pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Pin Box again Moryde vs Trailair
We changed from solid to MORryde pin box which eliminated about 50% of the chucking. Then we changed from Lippert cushioned equalizers to MORryde SRE4000--chucking 98% gone. When we went to a larger trailer, I swapped out the rubber block to the next size up. They make about 4 different sizes for different trailer weights. From memory there are about 4 big bolts and 8 small ones to change it. There are You-tube videos. Non of this eliminated the vertical jarring in the tow vehicle when it goes over bumps but the fore/aft chucking from the trailer is gone.
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lenr
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12/24/19 08:43pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Repairs and Upgrades
Mobile RV techs that I have experienced in IN and FL have been quite competent. Lucky maybe. But, they're just people--good ones and bad ones. Best way that I have found to find good ones, is ask the campground hosts.
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lenr
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12/20/19 12:46pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Repairs and Upgrades
When the repairman fixes it's done--when it fix (if I can fix it), it's done right. Sometimes it's even over-done. Even when we can't fix it, those of us who are handy have a better idea of where to go for professional help.
One of the reasons that I feel compfortable purchasing 175 miles from home is that I can fix the simple stuff.
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lenr
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12/20/19 12:39pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: WD proper setup-bars-and level tow vehicle
IMHO--yours may vary.
SUVs and pickup trucks often sit high in the rear and are designed to come down under load. The best handling will happen with front end weight about the same as when the trailer is not hitched, and the easiest way to check that is measure the front bumper. If the chains are adjusted to return normal weight to the front but the back has come down an inch or two, the front bumper will be up 1/8" to 1/4" which has been my goal. The tow vehicle looking level has never been important to me unless the rear is hanging very low indicating too much trailer. More important to me is normal weight back on the front. If the front has come down to less than unhitched, it is too tight with danger of bending the receiver. If the trailer is not level the only way to adjust is raise or lower the ball mount on the shank. Reese says no less than 5 chain links between the bars and the pull-up bracket. Stop in a sharp turn some time to see how tight those chains can get. The ball mount head is usually designed to tilt to change the length of the chains when front axle weight is back to normal. WD bars are usually labeled with a weight rating--Reese says you can use theirs down to half of the rating.
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lenr
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12/15/19 03:37pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: No Warranty on your RV? Don't buy new?
I am not affiliated with WANARV in any way--just a 2 time happy purchaser.
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lenr
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12/11/19 01:59pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: No Warranty on your RV? Don't buy new?
IMHO the "buy used" guys are just a bit more vocal about their choice which, of course, is their option. For 50+ years I have been a "buy new" guy because once the RV, vehicle, etc. becomes used, I know that it was taken care of. I've always been concerned about the possibility that a previous owner is dumping a lemon as opposed to fixing all the problems. With regard to price--the important thing about buying new is not paying too much. RVs are about 35% profit, and I wouldn't buy one without getting a 25 - 30% discount. There are "wholesale" dealers who claim to be down close to the bottom of the profit range. MSRP will range all over the map because there aren't Federal regulations on it for RVs. But one can get an idea of what a decent MSRP should be by comparing many online prices on sites such as RV Trader. New dealers often pressure to buy extended warranties. I don't buy whole unit extended warranties because one should be able to get everything fixed the first year in the structure. Beyond that I will occasionally buy extended warranties offered on appliances offered by the appliance manufacturer especially ACs because I have had trouble with those. The RV manufacturers change model years in March so the 2021 models will be coming out next spring--you would want a really good discount on a 2019 at this point. If you buy a Forest River product (and the Forest River hatters will now pile on) you can get virtually anything fixed free for up to two years by attending a rally in IN in August. My favorite low price dealer is WANARV.COM in Shipshewana, IN. Low ball prices, no Doc fees, no delivery charge, and friendly to deal with. Sometimes the real price is actually lower than their web site (hint). They are not handy to just everyone, but I have seen folks from Kansas to Canada picking up trailers there. Good luck shopping.
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lenr
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12/11/19 01:58pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Chucking....is it the trailer or the truck?
It is the trailer. On our 27' fifth wheel, we installed the MorRyde hitch which helped about 50% with chucking. Then we installed the MorRyde SRE4000 rubberized equalizer. Checking GONE! When we traded up to a 37' fifth wheel, the trailer went straight from the dealer to an axle shop for an SRE4000 installation with X-Factor braces on all 3 pairs of spring hangers, and the Dexter wet bolt kit. Again, chucking almost all gone. Big boys use the MorRyde IS system and swear by it, but that's big bucksand it is designed for 7K and 8K axles. MorRyde recommends the SRE4000 up to 6K. The SRE4000 is easily installed replacing the solid equalizer. It does require 3" of prior tire clearance--it adds another 1" of clearance, and requires 4" after installation for the additional motion of the axles. I assume that the better ride is easier on the trailer as well as reducing chucking. All of this does not reduce the bumps in the tow vehicle--the chucking is gone but the jarring from the truck axle going over bumps is still there. Can't afford to convert the truck to air suspension.
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lenr
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12/01/19 07:27pm |
Towing
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RE: 2012 6.7 Diesel
In my experience if you ask an Amish man a question, the most likely answer will be "it depends." So, while I'm not Amish, my answer to the OP's original question of how many miles is "it depends." It depends on condition, price, and confidence of good maintenance. I prefer to buy new because I know how a vehicle has been cared for as it gets old. My 2012 6.7 has 116,000 mi., with no out of warranty problems except a plugged EGR. It tows our 12,500 lb. fifth wheel just great. I may routinely replace the fuel pump somewhere between 150K and 200K--won't know until that time comes, but I do expect to keep trucking. A HPFP job should be around a $1000 at a reasonably priced shop--less then 2 payments on a new truck. And, if doing that I would have the S&S bypass kit installed.
A lot of the urban legend hype around the HPFP failures resulted from the cost of repair. When the pump goes it throws metal into the injectors ruining them. Repair (on line) seems to run from $9,000 to $15,000 depending on who's telling the story. Yet, I know of a small town Ford dealer that has done them for less than $5,000. The S&S kit eliminates the injector risk, but the labor to get it installed isn't free (read fuel pump is buried.) I don't know why Ford, Cummins, and Bosch don't incorporate a bypass, but I'm sure they have a reason. Everyone does know, don't they, that Cummins now uses the CP4. Cummins is pretty conservative--doubt that they would switch without some confidence in it. And, Ford now puts the 6.7 in their F650 trucks with a 10% breakdown rating of 500,000 miles and a 250,000 mile warranty--can't be all bad, but if you buy used, you take a chance.
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lenr
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11/06/19 12:08pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 2012 6.7 Diesel
When the CP4 failure rate first popped up from 2011 to 2013 there was some formal and maybe a review by National Safety folks. The Ford actual CP4 failure rate was 6 out of 10,000 with plenty of those being water, ethanol, DEF, or gasoline in the fuel, which is not the fault of Ford (or Bosch). I suspect as the motor and fuel industries have learned about the sensitivities, that the failure rate has gone down. Yes, it sucks if it happens to you, but the odds are low. I use Ford fuel treatment and try to buy from high volume stations to lower my personal risk.
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lenr
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11/06/19 06:19am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: 2012 6.7 Diesel
Not positive but I believe that Canadian fuel has a higher lubricity standard than US fuel, which might explain a lower HPFP failure rate up North. However, something North of 99.94% of the 6.7s in the US also have no fuel pump problems with many of those with a failure being traced back to contaminated fuel.
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lenr
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11/05/19 04:20pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Dexter 7K axle seals
I believe that Timpken has both Chinese and American manufactured bearings. You know which ones you want. Axle bearings were standardized years ago with all manufacturers using the same sizes, so you can get them from your local store if you choose.
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lenr
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11/04/19 06:53pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Pop goes the water heater!
Love the 10 gallon Dometic/Atwood gas and electric water heater that came OEM with our unit. We leave electric on all the time so campground pays and turn the gas on just before a shower. Water temperature is very even and has yet to run out of hot. Hated having to fool with Suberban anode rod on the previous trailer.
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lenr
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11/04/19 06:44pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New Brakes Requires
X2 on re-wiring. I have dramatically improved the braking on 2 trailers by replacing the brake wiring. I usually go with one 12 gauge pair to each axle landing them at the junction box at the front of the trailer. I only know of 2 manufacturers of drum trailer brakes: Lippert and Dexter (who has bought up everyone else.) On 6 different trailers the best brakes have been ALKO (bought up by Dexter) and the worst have been Lippert--just my experience. Brake parts are all the same dimension. Dexter parts will fit the others and that would be my choice. X2 on the neutral reaction of the trailer brakes. I went through lots of upgrades of some Lippert 4400 lb axles trying to get them neutral--that will always be my goal to be neutral.
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lenr
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10/20/19 08:44pm |
Travel Trailers
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