| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: LR E tow vehicle tire comparison
Had 3 sets of Michelin XLTs before they changed the name to Defender. I found that they had the most road wander of any tire that I've driven to the point that I found them dangerous. Everything else about them was great. On my F-350 the front tires wear off on both edges as if they are under inflated (they're actually over inflated by load.) I am currently running Cooper HT3s because they have a real heavy edges which should help with the wear problem. The ride is a little better than the Continental OEM tires, wear seems good so far, and traction is just as good as the OEMs.
|
lenr
|
10/09/20 05:51pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Question/help with pin box
My opinions--yours will vary:
Cushioned pin boxes will help reduce chucking transmitted to the truck. A cushioned suspension will reduce shock to the trailer and reduce chucking to the truck. In our experience adding the MORRyde pin box reduced checking 50% and their SRE4000 rubberized equalizer reduced it to a total of 98% gone. I suspect that the equalizer first would would have had a dramatic effect by itself. I strongly believe that reducing the shocks to the trailer will help it last longer before shaking apart. Pin boxes with vertical motion dampening may help reduce the shock felt in the truck--I have no experience.
|
lenr
|
10/02/20 09:45am |
Towing
|
|
RE: Wheelbase question
Also long bed never needs a slider hitch. Sliders tend to take up even more bed space.
|
lenr
|
09/20/20 05:11pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Wheelbase question
F-350 SRW Crew cab short bed. 37' fifth wheel is rock solid. Like above will go long bed for storage if we last long enough to need another truck.
|
lenr
|
09/20/20 05:10pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Suspension hardware
Both Dexter and MORRyde (as well as maybe others) make wet bolts as well as heavy (read extra thick--take a long time to wear out) shackle links. Wet bolts take a little grease maintenance, but the combination should take a long time to wear out. I've used Lippert Equa-Flex and Dexter E-Z Flex. Both pale compared to the MORRyde SRE4000 rubberized equalizer.
|
lenr
|
09/20/20 01:54pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Casting (Mirroring Android Tablet) to TV HDMI port
My favorite way to accomplish the OP's request is to use a Roku connected to the TV and mirror from my Android cell phone. I either stream through an app on the cell phone (Netflix, Sling, CBS All Access, etc.) or use the park WiFi to download to the cell phone (which provides the smoothest delivery). Roku is super easy to set up but does require a WiFi connection. However, when mirroring from the cell phone, it doesn't seem to consume Gigs from the WiFi. We can use slow park WiFi or a cellular based hot spot. We found the Chrome Cast impossibly hard to use, and it seemed to consume a lot of Gigs from the WiFi even when supposedly mirroring from a cell phone.
|
lenr
|
09/04/20 08:04pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Worn inside Tires
Our fifth wheel came with 5100 lb axles--loaded with our normal personal possessions and fresh water, the two axles weigh 10,220 lbs. So, they were loaded right up to the limit and probably ready to bend at the slightest abuse. We upgraded to 6,000 lb axles and disc brakes. OP might want to consider upgrading to a heavier wall tube. Dexter makes 3 wall thicknesses of 3" axle tubes ranging from 5100 to 7000 lb axles. RV manufacturers are going to use the cheapest, thinnest, axle tubes rated for what they're building.
|
lenr
|
08/03/20 06:45pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Checking on Wheel Bearing Heat
I, too, use an IR gun and TST. I look for inconsistency in temperatures. Even when one side is warmer from sun or load, those two tires/wheels should be close, or they will need closer monitoring/inspection.
|
lenr
|
07/30/20 06:40am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Checking on Wheel Bearing Heat
X2 on brake adjustment. I once adjusted my brakes after a break in period, and 200 miles down the road one hub was 50 degrees hotter than the other 3. Had the tool with me so laid under the trailer at the rest stop and loosened it slightly. Problem solved. ALKO axle support (back before being bought by Dexter) told me that hubs could run as high as 300 degrees without a problem, although that seems high to me.
|
lenr
|
07/29/20 07:20am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Fords new 7.3 Godzilla
My opinion--yours will vary->
All engines have improved in long term durability. My son has a 6.2 running strong at 196K with no oil use. It's time to forget the 6.0 diesel (unless you were personally burned). It was an International design. Ford bent over backwards to make sure the 6.7 was reliable. Yes, there were a few problems the first 2 years, but the transmission torque converter was actually a bigger problem. We had zero problems with our 2012 6.7 until about 80K. The 6.2 gets a 6 speed only in the 250, and it's actually a beefed up 150 transmission (TorqueShift-g). We get 19 - 20 mpg cruising at highway speed obeying the speed limit--15 around town--11 towing a 12.7K fifth wheel. Distinctly better than a gas engine. The higher cost of fuel does result in a similar cost per mile of fuel, leaving the initial cost as the biggest factor. However, I expect to replace this 6.7 with another because I LOVE all the HP that a diesel gets between 1000 and 2000 rpm.
|
lenr
|
07/24/20 12:47pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Excessive Heat in Fifth Wheel
On a prior trailer I found cool air leakage into the roof assembly at each duct outlet. I pulled each down and added foil tape to seal off.
|
lenr
|
07/24/20 12:05pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Truck stops and RVs
We find Fly'n Js have the most maneuver room, and most have an RV island with both gas and diesel. No gas in the truck lanes. Pilots unless very new seem to have the least room. We like Loves most of which have plenty of room and McDonalds. We also like Speedways that have truck lanes because they usually are not busy and the pumps turn on with any credit card. Be aware that many truck lanes will not turn on the pumps without a dedicated fuel card. You'll have walk into the fuel desk to give them a credit card. However, this may have changed lately--we haven't used truck lanes other than speedway for some time.
|
lenr
|
07/19/20 11:41am |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Winegard® Connect™ 2.0 WiFi & 4G LTE
More 2: the Winegard comes with the Winegard SIMM card used for its pay as you go plan. You would need to purchase a SIMM card from an AT&T or Verizon store particular to the data plan you want to use. Winegard uses a SIMM card larger than the smallest ones--best to buy a card that snaps down to the size needed. The Winegard plan, while more expensive per Gig, might be less expensive for light users. We try to be out in the RV 80% of the time, so Verizon is best for us. Yes, everything is tech complicated the first time through, but the manual is accurate, and Winegard telephone support knows what they're doing. Once it is setup and working, the configuration process is repeatable and easy to learn. Maybe OP can get a kid to visit during initial configuration. Also, the cellular configuration for the SIMM card that you acquire involves a bunch of numbers, but these are all on the instruction manual sticker.
Again, feel free to ask questions.
|
lenr
|
07/09/20 10:08am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Winegard® Connect™ 2.0 WiFi & 4G LTE
But wait--there's more! Check out my comments in the "Need some help with equipment to boost internet" thread, and I'll add a few additional remarks here. Most of us can't afford a data plan that lets us stream, so other techniques need to be developed (covered mine in the other thread)--we have found mirroring to a Roku plugged into an HDMI port on the TV to work best for us. Both Chrome Cast and Roku want a WiFi connection. I found the Chrome Cast impossibly hard to use, and I was never able to get it to mirror without pulling Gigs from the data plan to which it was connected using up the monthly allotment. We love Roku so much we have 6 of them between the house and the trailer. Easy setup, and mirroring works well. While the Roku wants a WiFi connection (we use the Winegard) it appears to only use Gigs from the WiFi if you are actually streaming through that WiFi connection. We have been mirroring from a phone for 3 days with no discernible use from our Verizon data plan that feeds the Winegard.
I'll continue to monitor this thread for specific questions on our experience.
|
lenr
|
07/09/20 09:46am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Winegard® Connect™ 2.0 WiFi & 4G LTE
We purchased the Winegard Connect 2.0 4G at the Tampa RV show in January, and like it just fine--no experience with other devices. Winegard dropped the price on this model to be more reasonable than some of the older units. It comes in 2 versions WiFi only and both WiFi and cellular 4G (for only a little more money.) Winegard offers their own pay as you go plan which is more expensive per Gig than cellular companies. It is compatible with either AT&T or Verizon data plans--we use Verizon because that has the best service where we travel. You need a data plan (not a phone plan, but usually in addition to a phone plan) to connect to the Winegard. In Verizon world that means some pretty severe Gig limits, so this is not the best solution for streaming. The setup for the Winegard is a bit complicated to setup but the instructions are good. You have to upgrade the software to work with the service provider that you choose. You program the Winegard to tell it whether you want to use 4G or WiFi, and it stays that way until the next program. The Winegard then rebroadcasts the internet connection as a new and unique WiFi signal coming through your roof. To program the Winegard, you connect a phone, tablet, and computer to this WiFi signal. The output of the Winegard is just a WiFi signal like a Verizon Jetpack or the hot spot on your phone. Setting up and programming would be definitely helped by some network configuration experience, but most should be able to get through the instructions. We like ours! The roof top location should be a better receiver. One challenge would be getting a 12 volt cable up there for power (our trailer came pre-wired)--many run a wire up through the fridge vent.
|
lenr
|
07/09/20 09:22am |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: sway
Sorry for the long post--I get excited by trailer setup!
My experience and opinion—yours will vary. Lots of good posts above, some of which I will slightly repeat for emphasis.
We towed for 7 years with an F-150. Small 4.6 V8, 4 wheeler in the bed, towing a trailer likely over 6400 lb. Never felt a bit of sway, but a bunch of bow wave. Used P XL extended load range tires aired up to the tire rating of 43 psi (not the sticker guidance of 35 psi), 800 lb. WD and double friction sway control.
1. First be sure that it is not just the bow wave that is being noticed. When 2 boxes pass or meet at highway speed (and you’re pulling a bumper hitch trailer), the bow wave will push the tow vehicle steering back and forth. A slight steering wheel tightening, first one way then the other, will be necessary to correct to straight down the road driving. This is normal. Fifth wheels and goosenecks don’t exhibit this because their hitch point is at the axle.
2. Sway is an out of control push often turning into an oscillation as the driver tries to correct, resulting in a collision if not quickly brought under control. Ford sway control is an emergency feature that kicks in AFTER sway is detected by the vehicle stabilization system. It does nothing to prevent sway, which is all about tow and trailer setup. Hopefully, it detects sway at a low enough level to avoid the collision, but you still don’t want it to ever kick in.
3. I am a HUGE believer that proper front axle weight is important to preventing sway. Easiest way to check this (and maybe more accurate than wheel well measuring) is just to mark a spot on the front bumper and measure to the closest ground point to the nearest 1/16”. You want to return the height loaded with WD back down close to the distance sitting unhitched which will confirm that the original weight is back on the front axle. You can’t move the truck while doing measurements and maintain accuracy using the bumper method. Ford guidance is to shoot for ½ of the distance between unhitched and hitched with no WD. I have always tried for 1/8 to ¼ inch up which should be very close to returning the unloaded weight back to the front axle. The WD setup for our first trailer done by the dealer was adjusted for rear squat—WRONG! It resulted in too little rear axle weight and spinning tires. Probably also too much front axle weight. Do not trust the dealer—they’re in a hurry for the next sale.
4. It is possible to have too much weight on a bumper hitch. My son hooked up a pole trailer to his F-350 dually, crew cab, long bed truck and loaded the trailer front heavy to make sure he had enough tongue weight. Out on the road at highway speed, sway shoved his truck right to left on a 3 lane interstate. He got it settled down and then sway pushed the truck back across the 3 lanes to the right. We believe that too little front axle weight was a large contributing factor. It was so scary that he started using WD and anti-sway on his 6000 lb. camping trailer.
5. If OP has any possibility of upgrading to a fifth wheel in the future, the 2021 solution should be a 350/3500 truck for adequate weight ratings for the heavier pin weights. Yes, the price difference is large for the little bit of equipment that changes, but the weight sticker will keep you out of trouble. Be sure to check licensing and insurance costs in your state as part of the decision.
6. IMHO the only thing air bags help with is rear swat with inadequate springs. OP says he is sitting level so likely not needed.
7. Ideally the trailer should be level to slightly nose down. If an adjustment is needed, then the only adjustment for that is changing the position on the shank bar, buying a different bar if needed. WD needs to be set up first and will need to be rechecked after a shank bar move.
|
lenr
|
07/08/20 09:09am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Should I convert my Gooseneck to a 5th wheel pin?
For less money and weight, how about developing some hitching aids? Back when I had a stock trailer I set up two potato chip bag clips with dowel rods sticking out of them (one on the trailer, one on the truck) such that I would be lined up left to right while backing. I could then get pretty close to the back up alignment by watching to distance between the sticks. After hitching up goosenecks or fifth wheels for 25 years, I still, usually, have to take a couple of swipes at it before things are well enough aligned--that back axle just doesn't want to jump side to side very quickly. There also are cameras and other hitching aids available commercially.
|
lenr
|
07/08/20 06:59am |
Towing
|
|
RE: Disappointed in Disc Brakes
Thread rises from the dead--Maybe Final, final post:
Ford IBC: from my reading the Ford IBC only reduces brake signal at speeds under about 10 mph for a less jerky stop. The manual lever never reduces out for vehicle speed. Research from owner manuals over several years seem to indicate that the low, med, high aggressiveness setting showed up in the 2015 trucks. Ford makes a replacement IBC module that has an "improved" part number. Research with a Ford Service department indicated that installing the improved part would still not add the aggressiveness setting that I so desired. I really wanted to find a solution that would react to the amount of brake petal push, but finally gave up.
Prodigy P3 report: so I finally decided to try the P3. I could use the Prodigy adapter cable for a smooth plug in but I would need to have a Ford Service department deprogram the computer so it wouldn't through an error message for a missing IBC. So, I decided to manually install the P3 parallel to the IBC. I had to run all 4 wires to the sources and tap into the correct brake petal wire. Since I have the inside bed trailer wire connector in addition to the typical one mounted at the bumper, I split the brake control wire between the too connectors with the bed side to the P3. I now have two complete trailer brake systems that work depending on which connector that I plug into. Measuring the IBC max voltage back to the trailer (set just below tire skidding), I set the P3 gain to match. I found that the B1 boost setting would turn on the actuator at the slightest petal push--what I've been looking for! On the first test drive yesterday, I found the B3 highest boost gave the best balance between truck and trailer. It is not as smooth as IBC, but the more aggressive braking at a low petal actuation is also what I was looking for--this is the best solution that I've tried. And, I feel that I'm going to have the best emergency braking from this setup. Maybe someday I can afford the $70,000 fix--a new truck.
Bonus: I have a backup brake controller in the IBC if something goes wrong with my P3 installation.
Anyone interested in installation specifics may shoot me a private email.
Thanks for all the help along the way.
|
lenr
|
07/07/20 06:20pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Need some help with equipment to boost internet
Part 2: We have a couple of techniques for streaming on weak WiFi. They both involve mirroring to a Roku plugged into the TV and apps installed on the cell phone such Netflix, CBS All Access, or Sling TV. I've found the Google Chromecast impossibly complicated to use and the Roku a piece of cake. Our "unlimited" Verizon plan doesn't slow down unless the network is congested and never slows down below 50 gigs--they have even bigger plans available. So, this works by streaming straight to the cell phone and mirroring it to the Roku. And of course this doesn't work if the cell phone signal is too weak. This does not use our Winegard Connect 2.0 4G because it uses a data plan with strict limits. If the cell service is weak, then I'll walk around the park looking for decent strength on their WiFi. Then I'll download straight to the cell phone. Not all shows allow downloading but many do. Then when we're watching TV in the evening, we just play back on the cell phone and mirror to the Roku.
|
lenr
|
07/05/20 10:08pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Need some help with equipment to boost internet
We are finding campgrounds with decent WiFi including decent speed, but they are hit and miss. Some campgrounds are dropping cable TV and putting in better WiFi. We installed a Winegard Connect 2.0 4G which mounts up on the RV roof for better connections. It picks up either WiFi from the park or connects to a cellular 4G signal with data plans from AT&T, Verizon, or a pre-paid plan from Winegard that is a little more expensive. You have to program it to tell it what you want it to connect to, but the instructions are good. Regardless of the connection the Windgard re-broadcasts its own WiFi signal down into the RV. It works well, but still depends on some outside signal strength. Connected to a 4G signal, the data plan will determine your Gigs and speed. Our "unlimited" Verizon plan slows down to unusable after 15 Gigs so we almost never stream over it, but still use it for data.
|
lenr
|
07/05/20 09:47pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
